I wish Lee Loaders came in this caliber. I've got a Rock Chucker, but don't know much about how to use it, and only limited dies. I just bought a set of the scoops... but I'm a very, very, very novice loader. Good vid.
Hello Logcabinlooms, I know you made this video a few years back, but I am hoping you will get to see this comment. I enjoyed this video and the other ones you did on shooting the 7.62x25 so much that a buddy and I bought the Lee mold to make the cast bullets. In the past, when I bought my Russian Tokerav pistol, the only brass you could get was from S&B loaded ammo or make the cases yourself. I used 9mm magnum brass, and it was pretty easy to make the cases. The load was make from the formed cases and the Serra 100 grain .30 cal. "plinker" bullets and it worked fine. Now that brass in made by Starline, there is no reason to make the cases and after watching your video, my shooting buddy and I decided to get the Lee mold and we ordered the Starline brass. We used your load of Bullseye and we loaded two more loads, just alittle hotter but not to the max. What we found was that after the 4.1 grain load, which worked fine, the next load began to keyhole in the target. We were shooting at 7 yards, and the key holing was very obvious. Now I wanted to ask if you had this experience. My loads key holed at the second load, 4.5 grains of Bullseye. Now my pistol was made in 1947 and the bore slugs at .314 and we are sizing the bullets at .313. The mold casts our bullets at .313, we are using wheel weights. The other question I have for you is what kind of seating depth you are setting your cast bullet at. We loaded the bullet deep enough to cover the two lube groves, but we suspect that that might be part of the problem. We have made up a few dummy rounds were we seat the bullet to the band between the two lube groves, and we will try that load the next time we go shooting. This load chambers fine in my pistol, I was concerned because we got a note in the bag of brass that said that the brass was made for .308 bullets and would not work with bullets as large as ours. My pistol is on the large size, I suspect that the Russians did not throw the tooling away until it was really out of spec, as long as it worked, they kept using it! Anyway, I am slowly working my way through your videos, I really enjoy them. I wish I had your skills at so many of the things you do. I do a lot of reloading, and I find that we share a taste for cast bullets and old surplus rifles. I have more that a few, and I may comment of a few more of your videos to share my experience with the cast bullets and old military rifles. Thanks for taking the time to make these videos, Mark Esparza Tucson, AZ
Justin is right - 0.01 over bore diameter. Do you have a 0.313 expander plug for your dies? If not, your cases are squeezing the base of the bullets smaller. At the lower charges, you are getting some stabilization. At the higher charges, the bullet is starting to "skid" along the surface of the rifling. Thus the keyholes. You will probably get enough bullet upset that the 0.313 bullets will work if you don't squeeze them down in the case. Leaving one driving band exposed will help but it isn't a fix. A bigger expander plug is. You may have to borrow from a rifle die to get one since most pistol dies don't usually have one. And no, the Russians didn't use worn out equipment. Russian standard is a 300 bore with a resulting 311 - 312 groove. All their 30 cal stuff is that way. I actually find this an interesting tidbit because specs for the 7.62x25 cartridge itself says 308 bullets. Hmmmmm. Anyway, get a 0.313 expander plug and a factory crimp die, and I think you will be pleased with the results.
I like your minimalist approach. Tat bench would drive me nuts though -- I'm too OCD for the cutter, lol. Dippers are fine for plinking but if you are going for accuracy, a good scale is invaluable. I'm enjoying your "down home" common sense and low key videos. Thanks very much.
Thanks for the video. I'll be reloading this weekend the bottle neck on a pistol cartridge is what is I was worried about.. I also agree with the 110 m1 the pressure would increase I'm not confront able with that. Thanks again.
logcabinlooms Sorry to bother you again,,,but do you resize your cast bullets before reloading? If so, tow what size. I am ready to cast some .311 lee bullets
gman77gas yes, I run then through the .311 die, most of the time it doesn't matter, but you do find the odd one that's slightly larger and it takes care of those.
Thanks.....I thought I would need to run them thru a .309 sizer. I am also going thru the labor of taking .223 casings an making them into 7.62x25 It is VERY labor intensive!
logcabinlooms I just ordered a .311 resizer for my cast lead .311 bullets. I am going to slug my barrel. I was reading that .002 to .004 over bore size , cast lead bullets will work and is the goal. Any opinion?
Have you used any of that "Santa" lead I sent you? I got some tin I'm going to put in some of the softer stuff to harden it up. Although I may save the soft stuff for muzzle loader slugs to use in sabots.
You know you can actually load them up to 155 grain AK47 bullets at subsonic speed with rifle powder and get something good supressable with little gas volume a the muzzle with a nice subsonic trajectory similar to a wimpy loaded 300Blackout that onley works out of longer barrels of at least 9 inch , PPS43, PPSh41, Mosin Nagant with chamber insert 7.62TT or an AR15 in 7.62TT useing PPS43 mags
Almost all powders are hard to find. The exception is IMR 4064, that turns up all over, and luckily its what I use in most of my rifles. I do have a good selection of powders on hand, but getting more looks pretty bleak.
i have used annealed 222 and 223 brass to form my own 762 tok - you have to ream the neck to 7.55mm after forming for wall thickness - and they hold - with getting every fourth time they are reloaded induction heated anealed and every second time trimmed abaut 12 times with RWS, GECO, S&B and PPU brass if the Primer still seats well or you glue them in. Logically some cartridges are of lesser quality and get split necks , they have to be sorted out but those are abaut 2-3 in 100 every time you reload if you did all right PPU brass and american BS producers like American Eagle, Winchester, brass cased TULA or Barnaul and CCI and NATO ammo is sometimes of strongly varying material quality , if they split 40% after the second time reloading i just dump them and dont bother you always have to sort the brass by manufacturers and specify your load with those to your guns function since they have differently large volumes due to different production dies, brass raw material and powders
I'm looking to get a CZ52...and I have a question for you. I've watched lots of videos and everyone I see....THERE'S FIRE COMING OUT THE BARREL !!! Is there a powder that can eliminate this "fireball" ? Thanks.
ConnectTheDotsNOW : Try "Alliant BE-86" I have had some excellent results with this pistol powder it also has a flash suppressant in it as well. Kind regards! Eric Dee.
ConnectTheDotsNOW : Good luck finding a CZ-52 havnt seen one for sale in quite sometime, been wanting one myself. J&G Sales in Arizona used to have a stock pile of the 52's they carry a lot of "Comblock" weaponry but, the CZ-52's dried up for one reason or another?. Kind regards! Eric Dee.
Boy am I glad to finally see someone’s bench on Utube that is as organized as mine!
I wish Lee Loaders came in this caliber.
I've got a Rock Chucker, but don't know much about how to use it, and only limited dies.
I just bought a set of the scoops... but I'm a very, very, very novice loader.
Good vid.
I'm not sure where you buy your reloading supplies, but Midway USA has dies for this caliber. I think I saw a classic loader on there as well.
Hello Logcabinlooms,
I know you made this video a few years back, but I am hoping you will get to see this comment. I enjoyed this video and the other ones you did on shooting the 7.62x25 so much that a buddy and I bought the Lee mold to make the cast bullets. In the past, when I bought my Russian Tokerav pistol, the only brass you could get was from S&B loaded ammo or make the cases yourself. I used 9mm magnum brass, and it was pretty easy to make the cases. The load was make from the formed cases and the Serra 100 grain .30 cal. "plinker" bullets and it worked fine. Now that brass in made by Starline, there is no reason to make the cases and after watching your video, my shooting buddy and I decided to get the Lee mold and we ordered the Starline brass. We used your load of Bullseye and we loaded two more loads, just alittle hotter but not to the max. What we found was that after the 4.1 grain load, which worked fine, the next load began to keyhole in the target. We were shooting at 7 yards, and the key holing was very obvious. Now I wanted to ask if you had this experience. My loads key holed at the second load, 4.5 grains of Bullseye. Now my pistol was made in 1947 and the bore slugs at .314 and we are sizing the bullets at .313. The mold casts our bullets at .313, we are using wheel weights. The other question I have for you is what kind of seating depth you are setting your cast bullet at. We loaded the bullet deep enough to cover the two lube groves, but we suspect that that might be part of the problem. We have made up a few dummy rounds were we seat the bullet to the band between the two lube groves, and we will try that load the next time we go shooting. This load chambers fine in my pistol, I was concerned because we got a note in the bag of brass that said that the brass was made for .308 bullets and would not work with bullets as large as ours. My pistol is on the large size, I suspect that the Russians did not throw the tooling away until it was really out of spec, as long as it worked, they kept using it!
Anyway, I am slowly working my way through your videos, I really enjoy them. I wish I had your skills at so many of the things you do. I do a lot of reloading, and I find that we share a taste for cast bullets and old surplus rifles. I have more that a few, and I may comment of a few more of your videos to share my experience with the cast bullets and old military rifles.
Thanks for taking the time to make these videos,
Mark Esparza
Tucson, AZ
KRRabbit1 you want to size cast bullets .01 over bore diameter not inder
Justin is right - 0.01 over bore diameter. Do you have a 0.313 expander plug for your dies? If not, your cases are squeezing the base of the bullets smaller. At the lower charges, you are getting some stabilization. At the higher charges, the bullet is starting to "skid" along the surface of the rifling. Thus the keyholes.
You will probably get enough bullet upset that the 0.313 bullets will work if you don't squeeze them down in the case.
Leaving one driving band exposed will help but it isn't a fix. A bigger expander plug is. You may have to borrow from a rifle die to get one since most pistol dies don't usually have one.
And no, the Russians didn't use worn out equipment. Russian standard is a 300 bore with a resulting 311 - 312 groove. All their 30 cal stuff is that way.
I actually find this an interesting tidbit because specs for the 7.62x25 cartridge itself says 308 bullets. Hmmmmm.
Anyway, get a 0.313 expander plug and a factory crimp die, and I think you will be pleased with the results.
I like your minimalist approach. Tat bench would drive me nuts though -- I'm too OCD for the cutter, lol. Dippers are fine for plinking but if you are going for accuracy, a good scale is invaluable. I'm enjoying your "down home" common sense and low key videos. Thanks very much.
Thanks for the video. I'll be reloading this weekend the bottle neck on a pistol cartridge is what is I was worried about.. I also agree with the 110 m1 the pressure would increase I'm not confront able with that. Thanks again.
Your loading table resembles my place.
Thank you for sharing you knowledge! What kind of setup would you recommend for someone getting starting with 0 experience reloaoding?
So what is you favorite bullet brand and grain to load for this cal ? Other than casting your own.
Its a bit limited as to what's available, I tried the Sierra 85 grain because that's what I could find.
logcabinlooms Sorry to bother you again,,,but do you resize your cast bullets before reloading? If so, tow what size.
I am ready to cast some .311 lee bullets
gman77gas yes, I run then through the .311 die, most of the time it doesn't matter, but you do find the odd one that's slightly larger and it takes care of those.
Thanks.....I thought I would need to run them thru a .309 sizer.
I am also going thru the labor of taking .223 casings an making them into 7.62x25
It is VERY labor intensive!
logcabinlooms I just ordered a .311 resizer for my cast lead .311 bullets.
I am going to slug my barrel. I was reading that .002 to .004 over bore size , cast lead bullets will work and is the goal. Any opinion?
I reload mine with Hornady xtp's. For self defense/hunting. I carry my romanian ttc everyday.
Have you used any of that "Santa" lead I sent you? I got some tin I'm going to put in some of the softer stuff to harden it up. Although I may save the soft stuff for muzzle loader slugs to use in sabots.
Have not used them yet, I have been just using up loose wheel weights, so have not yet had to go into any of the processed lead.
I too use the lee dippers. You would be amazed at the accuracy if you can nail down your technique.
You know you can actually load them up to 155 grain AK47 bullets at subsonic speed with rifle powder and get something good supressable with little gas volume a the muzzle with a nice subsonic trajectory similar to a wimpy loaded 300Blackout
that onley works out of longer barrels of at least 9 inch , PPS43, PPSh41, Mosin Nagant with chamber insert 7.62TT or an AR15 in 7.62TT useing PPS43 mags
Problem is I cant find 2400 powder anywhere.
Almost all powders are hard to find. The exception is IMR 4064, that turns up all over, and luckily its what I use in most of my rifles. I do have a good selection of powders on hand, but getting more looks pretty bleak.
How many reloads do you get out of the brass?
Have not had any fail yet, but its too early to tell. The brass I have is Star line, and that's been great in every thing I have used it in.
i have used annealed 222 and 223 brass to form my own 762 tok - you have to ream the neck to 7.55mm after forming for wall thickness - and they hold - with getting every fourth time they are reloaded induction heated anealed and every second time trimmed abaut 12 times with RWS, GECO, S&B and PPU brass if the Primer still seats well or you glue them in.
Logically some cartridges are of lesser quality and get split necks , they have to be sorted out but those are abaut 2-3 in 100 every time you reload if you did all right
PPU brass and american BS producers like American Eagle, Winchester, brass cased TULA or Barnaul and CCI and NATO ammo is sometimes of strongly varying material quality , if they split 40% after the second time reloading i just dump them and dont bother
you always have to sort the brass by manufacturers and specify your load with those to your guns function since they have differently large volumes due to different production dies, brass raw material and powders
I'm looking to get a CZ52...and I have a question for you. I've watched lots of videos and everyone I see....THERE'S FIRE COMING OUT THE BARREL !!! Is there a powder that can eliminate this "fireball" ? Thanks.
ConnectTheDotsNOW : Try "Alliant BE-86" I have had some excellent results with this pistol powder it also has a flash suppressant in it as well.
Kind regards! Eric Dee.
ConnectTheDotsNOW : Good luck finding a CZ-52 havnt seen one for sale in quite sometime, been wanting one myself. J&G Sales in Arizona used to have a stock pile of the 52's they carry a lot of "Comblock" weaponry but, the CZ-52's dried up for one reason or another?.
Kind regards! Eric Dee.
why? thats part of the fun
how abaut a supressor and a new threaded barrel with normal junk ammo
محتاج خمسين اطلاقه
WOW I can do that!!!! Thanks