Hey folks- make sure you’re wearing proper safety equipment! Respirator for the resin, long sleeves and eye protection for the fiberglass. These things will really fuck you up if you’re not careful!
Just a thought: instead of petroleum jelly, use a good paste wax as a release agent, and even a good spray afterwards of release. You spoke about the petroleum jelly melting due to the curing temperature. The paste wax works better here. I’ve seen people who’s fiberglass halves/board dividing walls locked a bit where the petroleum jelly melted.
I used to do the same thing with small pieces of foam core and hot glue to make a dividing wall for the mother mold halves. Took forever. Get a piece of thick solder wire as it's easily bendable and use it to form to the outline, then just lie it down on your fiber board and cut it out in one go. Or you can use a strip of sintra and heat form it around your silicone and do the same thing.
Sintra sounds like a great idea, I stick with the old paper and sticky tape as it is something everyone has lying around the house/workshop. I previously used cardboard but it was too flexible. In my younger days I once forgot to put up a dividing wall, luckily I only did 1 layer before I realized how bad of a plan it was
it was a 3d print. I got the edges smooth by sanding all the print lines and several passes with some car products, such as rubbing compound, scratch remover and a polishing wax.
Daniel Bignoux I don't know if u will see this comment but a little tip that I learned off of my grandad is to get a small block of wood to hold the sandpaper so it is easier to use.
i'd imagine you can 3d print it, and then sand it down to smooth it out, and then make a mold out of that, and make a proto out of a stronger (maybe resin-based) material
did u apply petroleum jelly onto the silicon before apply resin+fiberglass? coz i didnt see it in video. the resin will stick on silicon if we didnt apply right?
How do you keep the inside hollow though? So it's not just a solid block of plastic? Sorry, I'm a noob, but I don't get that part and I've watched many videos and none explain this.
It's a process called slush-casting, that's when you mix a small amount of plastic and pour it into the mold. Just like a cement mixer you turn the mold to cover the inside capturing all the details and as the plastic cures, it sticks to the walls. This process is time consuming as you have to do multiple thin layers to build up the thickness you want. If you were to pour in too much plastic it would cure to quickly and you would end up with really thick spots in the cast. If you want more information search for: slush casting
it depends on the helmet, I used dragon skin because I didn't want a seam line, but I sacraficed a seam line for some air bubbles. It is recommended that dragon skin is vacuumed before use to get out the airbubbles out. I suggest for a first time helmet hold go with rebound as its most preferred by other builders. I have alot of airbubbles in the mold that caused dents on every cast I have pulled so far. When I go to remold this helmet in the future I will be using a different silicone.
none from what I have heard or tried. You do not have to add the pigment, It just makes it easier to see what you have covered and also to roughly tell the thickness. Dont cheap out when it comes to molding, I have purchased an equivalent to Thi-Vex (silicone thickener) in the past and It didn't cure the silicone i was using, it remained sticky for a few days before I scraped it off.
Hey folks- make sure you’re wearing proper safety equipment! Respirator for the resin, long sleeves and eye protection for the fiberglass. These things will really fuck you up if you’re not careful!
Using the paper to make the template for the mother mold is pretty slick.
Just a thought: instead of petroleum jelly, use a good paste wax as a release agent, and even a good spray afterwards of release. You spoke about the petroleum jelly melting due to the curing temperature. The paste wax works better here. I’ve seen people who’s fiberglass halves/board dividing walls locked a bit where the petroleum jelly melted.
*sands fiberglas while wearing tanktop*
Pro trick : you can watch series at flixzone. Been using them for watching loads of movies lately.
@Vance Jaiden yup, have been using flixzone for years myself :)
I used to do the same thing with small pieces of foam core and hot glue to make a dividing wall for the mother mold halves. Took forever. Get a piece of thick solder wire as it's easily bendable and use it to form to the outline, then just lie it down on your fiber board and cut it out in one go. Or you can use a strip of sintra and heat form it around your silicone and do the same thing.
Sintra sounds like a great idea, I stick with the old paper and sticky tape as it is something everyone has lying around the house/workshop. I previously used cardboard but it was too flexible. In my younger days I once forgot to put up a dividing wall, luckily I only did 1 layer before I realized how bad of a plan it was
Great video!
it was a 3d print. I got the edges smooth by sanding all the print lines and several passes with some car products, such as rubbing compound, scratch remover and a polishing wax.
could you be able to make the first ray gun with the sounds and the leds ?
We will see, there are alot of weapons I would like to make from COD zombies ;)
Daniel Bignoux I don't know if u will see this comment but a little tip that I learned off of my grandad is to get a small block of wood to hold the sandpaper so it is easier to use.
Good tip, thanks ;)
Hi i cant use dragon skin 20?
Awesome job! Great share bro!
Loved this ! Brilliant !!
cheers ;)
This was somewhat useful.
4:57 don't worry it's just Alien blood dripping off me 😉
how do you make the helmet proto? (the grey one used in the tutorial).
pepakura? if so how do get the edges so smooth?
i'd imagine you can 3d print it, and then sand it down to smooth it out, and then make a mold out of that, and make a proto out of a stronger (maybe resin-based) material
did u apply petroleum jelly onto the silicon before apply resin+fiberglass? coz i didnt see it in video. the resin will stick on silicon if we didnt apply right?
Is it possible to get the 3D model file from you?
Hi Daniel ,i cant use dragon skin 20?
How do you keep the inside hollow though? So it's not just a solid block of plastic? Sorry, I'm a noob, but I don't get that part and I've watched many videos and none explain this.
It's a process called slush-casting, that's when you mix a small amount of plastic and pour it into the mold. Just like a cement mixer you turn the mold to cover the inside capturing all the details and as the plastic cures, it sticks to the walls. This process is time consuming as you have to do multiple thin layers to build up the thickness you want. If you were to pour in too much plastic it would cure to quickly and you would end up with really thick spots in the cast. If you want more information search for: slush casting
Thanks! I did end up finding a video on it.
if i use 0.9kg of silicone mold .. did it enough ?? i wanna mold my green ranger helmet
You will need more if your doing a full sized helmet. I used 4-5kg to do this helmet and it was still thin in spots
Молодец!)
what is better for molding helmets, rebound 25 or dragon skin
it depends on the helmet, I used dragon skin because I didn't want a seam line, but I sacraficed a seam line for some air bubbles. It is recommended that dragon skin is vacuumed before use to get out the airbubbles out. I suggest for a first time helmet hold go with rebound as its most preferred by other builders. I have alot of airbubbles in the mold that caused dents on every cast I have pulled so far. When I go to remold this helmet in the future I will be using a different silicone.
ok thanks
can you provide the 3d files?
Hi ! I have a question :) how much resin did you put in that cast :) thank you :)
For casting I do 5 layers varying from 150-300ml (that with both sides mixed) depending on the mold.
Thank you so much ! So one cast is approximately 1L of resin :) Thank you
And what about the silicone ? How much did you use it ? :)
Around 1.5lt, A 1 gallon kit of smooothcast will get you 4/5 helmets and I used just under half a gallon kit to mold the helmet
bro u got to teach me and hey do u got twiitter
Can you put the 3d model link pls
What resin you used at 10:45
just fibreglass resin tinted purple
daniel, i know this might be an inconvenience but i will play you 5000 for a raygun mk2 replica, or almost any other price
dab first layer, dont brush.
¿Amigo como te contacto?
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Saludos desde Colombia
What would you do if the mothermold broke?
make another one
@@DanielBignoux how if the silicone mold is no longer on the helmet
@@davidmacnutt9184 Make another mold... from scratch
@@DanielBignoux but if I could get silicone mold back on helmet?
@@davidmacnutt9184 you can try but it will never sit the same. You will end up with warped casts.
too bad i don't have money to do this cuz im poor ):
and is they a equivalent to silc pig
none from what I have heard or tried. You do not have to add the pigment, It just makes it easier to see what you have covered and also to roughly tell the thickness. Dont cheap out when it comes to molding, I have purchased an equivalent to Thi-Vex (silicone thickener) in the past and It didn't cure the silicone i was using, it remained sticky for a few days before I scraped it off.
some people said just to use acrylic paint but in don't know if that's good
What does 1:1 mean?
SlenderDJ889 same amount of both
Oh thx
Bruh why you grab fiber glass like that
i ain't scared