I know the video's hard to follow. I was rushing, and it sort of made sense in my head, but now I'm rewatching it, and thinking it'd be hard to follow. Few people did and props to you, crazies, for understanding what the hell I was saying. Also, looks like Roland finally took down the download section for MC-300/500 OS files. My repository's all that's left, unless they moved the files some place I don't know. Sadly I didn't archive everything off there, as I received a pair of MC-80's later, and those don't have the latest firmware. That's on my project list.
Glad it worked out for you. What doesn't seem like a big deal at first, adds up to a significant annoyance, once you repeat it couple of dozen times. And if there is a potential fix, why not do it. My rule of thumb is if the mod costs less than half of the thing being modified and makes it twice as good, then it's totally worth it.
👍👌➿➿➿➿very fast but very useful. For me, an other step will be to externalizing the power supply 12v 5v, to be mobile and using solar energy. An other thing will be to take off metal parts, and make it a table composer integrated in plate racks like the Roland boutique norm. Will see, I have the Roland MC 500, four tracks are enough for me. One question , the guy who given me his MC 500 was running current floppy disks without problems. And I have a stock of ones, so, I appreciate you given all those i formations, and I am first going to take off metal and making it a rack table without power supply directly inside, then I see if I adapt the modifications you made, very interesting about the USB switch. I saw by past that there is also floppy drives emulations working with SD cards inside? Is it better?
Why I take off metal parts in All my Studio?!... Ah this is a long story. But first, this is because Earth Sun near future Induction, lol, and also making my studio mobile in a tiny house, I need to take out weight for all my material. About power supply, they will be the first to melt but mostly, I need to Supply power with solar and or wind energy, and putting all power supply out of my home, if needed, mostly we have material working under 5, 6, 8, 9, 12, 19, and 19v, depend of amperage specified , but old material, ans some effects racks dont use lot of energy, the power supply can be made by regulation boxes, very common for effects pedals. So as that, the MC 500 can be light, and plate, with its pretty keys to play live integrated to other racks. Useful then to not having to manipulate the USB key. 🙏🤗🧡💚
I did everything exactly as you demonstrated, I had issues with the cheap programmer eventually used an arduino uno to program the ATtiny85. Now the issue is that my gotek only increments the left digit once, not ten times like the one in the video. I wonder if there is a change I can make in the program to have it increment the addition nine times I need?
Hmm. There is a delay in the code. I tweaked my counter to run as quickly as possible. You can increase the delay to see if your gotek is too slow to respond. Also, if only one digit scrolls, then check connections to both button leads. I have digits scrolling only on one digit also during a test, because I only had one wire hooked up.
Hi,I have recently installed the gotek in my mc 500 mark2. I have tried to understand your instructions for saving and loading songs but i,m sorry i,m not technically minded, would it be possible for you to put a video up showing step by step how to create a song ( a few notes), save to USB, and create a MRP stick for a live performance, thankyou, Dave
In part 1 I show basic operation. Part 2 is indeed, for more electronically inclined. Gotek is simple. Right button - save from USB to Gotek (at which point sequencer thinks it has a diskette), and left button saves from Gotek to USB. That's it. Number on screen selects name of the file you're writing to or from on the USB. If the file already exists when you save, it gets overwitten, if there is no file, then it's auto-created. For the USB, only requirement is that it's formatted as FAT32.
Yes I did. At 3:21 you can see where the jumpers are at. I was hoping that toggling the pin would trigger a diskette change, but on this specific model it doesn't produce the kind of outcome Roland expects. Pin 1 on the ribbon has to go to Pin 2. That's the only way to do it. You can just short them with a single pushbutton and that's it. Shorting does not affect the ARM CPU, because it has current protection on those lines. With the mods I went for maximum results. If you are to do fewer than 3 steps, then the mod gets progressively easier. There are diagrams I posted in the description, if you're electronically inclined.
Hello ENILENIS, Ken you help? I acquired in 2nd hand a ROLAND RA800 module, which I think is equal to the Roland g800, but without a keyboard. It works quite well and with a fantastic sonority according to age. The module did not have a floppy drive. I put one of 1.44 Mgs, of the used ones in the computers but I cannot read anything from her. Is the RA 800 floppy drive special for the module? When I try to format a diskette on it, it says (DISK NOT READY) and if I try to read files with the extension .STL when I load in play it says to insert the diskette. When I connect the module on startup the drive light gives a wink, but it will not turn on again. If you can help, or some ideas of what you will be passing thank you.
Do you have any other floppy drives to test with, because you may have a bad one. Also, what about the connector? Does RA800 have its own floppy cable or did you use your own? Roland may have its own wiring. Twisted section of the ribbon that sets device id has to match. There is also a possibility that the device may be brand sensitive. Most floppy drives are similar, but there are minor standard differences and response timing may be off. Many possibilities. I looked at RA800 demo diskettes online (since I don't have RA800 itself). The sizes are in 1.44MB range, so at least the drive type should match, if yours is 1.44. Does the drive do a spinup during the bootup, or does the light simply blink with no mechanical action? If the drive doesn't spin at all, then it's either device ID and ribbon wiring mismatch, or maybe the drive is defective. See if there are any pin overrides on your floppy drive, if any configs can be changed. Would you be able to send me pictures of what the hookup looks like? You can email them to me, as without pictures I'm left guessing.
Hello HENILENIS, thank you very much for having responded. Last weekend, I tried 4 floppy drives from different brands but none worked. I kept thinking that will be a special drive type for the equipment. However, I already had a USB Gotek SFR1M44-U100K drive, in which I chanteed with the soldering iron pin 1 with pin 2 and put the jumpers in JA, S1, MO. It worked at first. I used the USB-FLOPPY-MANANGER-v1.40i software (ipcas gmbh) to format a USB pen drive. The program created 99 folders or blocks of 1,390MB. I've recorded a few of themes whit rhythms for the AR-800 or R-800 and it works great. So, glad that I stayed, I'll come back to thank you for your response and forever. Thank you
Every time I try to upload or verify the Arduino program into my AtTINY 85 it keeps coming up with an error. "Sketch uses 890 bytes (10%) of program storage space. Maximum is 8192 bytes. Global variables use 9 bytes (1%) of dynamic memory, leaving 503 bytes for local variables. Maximum is 512 bytes."
The readout says everything is fine. Only 10% of storage is used and only 1% of RAM. No indication as to what the actual error is. Is there anything else that gets printed? I know multiple people did this mod and had no issues, even on ATtiny45. Here are the settings in Arduino IDE that I'm using. Make sure that board, processor and internal clock are set the same way. Programmer should match whichever chip programmer you're using:www.enilenis.com/projects/mc300/arduino.jpg The chip also has to have a burned bootloader, which is the last item in the menu. Most chips you buy come with bootloader. If not, you have to run that function before you can use it.
But if you want to go the whole hog, flashing the firmware with 'FlashFloppy', adding a 0.91-inch OLED screen and a rotary encoder with push button function is miles better...
@@enilenis Back to the future!! However, I am seriously considering this mod for my W30 as although I've had my Gotek for a week, its shortcomings are becoming more apparent. Problem is, I don't have any of the equipment (soldering iron, hot glue gun) nor materials (wire, header pins, USB A to A connector); nor the money to buy them
@d roses Most of my supplies come from years of dumpster diving and salvaging. I have a habit of stripping things down to the last screw. A decade ago when people were getting rid of comptuters in favor of tablets and phones it was paradise. Felt like the supply of parts was never going to end and then as quickly as it started, everything ended. Now I find maybe 2 abandoned computers a year. I love using IDE cables as a source of wire, because you can peel it like string cheese having only as many wires as needed.
@@enilenis Unlikely to find a soldering iron, hot glue gun or other tools I need dumpster diving. And anyway, in the area where I live that kind of activity is not really possible - at least not without getting arrested for theft or trespassing....
Do you load the sequenced tunes to the RAM in the MC 300? are the files standard mdi or mrc or both? I have an MC 80 that I've crashed two hard drives on . I have an MC 500 MK 2 thats been in the closet for 15 years.
MC 300, 500 and 50 work with MRC files. A special utility called MRM is required to convert files into and out of standard MIDI. It's loaded same way as the OS. Compositions are loaded into RAM while you work on them. When you're done, you either dump them to the same disk (or virtual partition) OS came from, or you can save onto a fresh pre-formated diskette (or virtual partition). Speaking of MC 80 - I've been looking to buy one for months. How are you linking it, ignoring hard drive issues.
I meant to ask how does it load from the gotek to the sequencers ram? maybe another short demo vid? MC80 is a great machine! there is a 1 on Ebay now for $450. Id like to find a discover 5M. Many for sale in Europe none in the states. How much would you charge to do the job on my MC500 MK2?
Gotek has onboard flash memory which stores a single diskette image. When no USB media is inserted left and right buttons let you pre-select the file name (ex: b001 on Gotek's display = 001.IMG on USB). Next you put the thumb drive in and with the right button load it into Gotek's flash, at which point the device begins acting like a conventional floppy drive with a diskette in it. You can even pull the USB out and reboot. The virtual diskette will stay there, letting you operate the sequencer like you normally would. If you compose music and save files, all the changes will also go into Gotek's internal flash. To dump the contents of that flash onto a thumb drive, you once again, start by selecting the file index, say b002, then insert the USB and with the left button write file 002.IMG to the USB thumb drive. If the file doesn't exist, Gotek will create one or overwrite 002.IMG if such file is already present.
Regarding doing mods for other people, I prefer giving instructions. Spare time is always in short supply. I don't even get enough of it to post regularly to TH-cam.
If you commit to an upgrade, I'll walk you through. Don't worry. Part 2 is fully optional. You can be up and running with just Part 1. I was just trying to see how far I can take the upgrade before moving on. Changing diskette images? You can take the USB out, change the number and put it back in. Switch mod is for that and if that's the only thing you need, a single trace cut and 2 wires is all it's going to take. Getting the counter to go up to b00 - also, something you can (and is expected to do) with Gotek buttons. Using a microcontroller is a bit of an overkill, though I've seen people follow my exact instructions, because let's be honest, one you know something is possible, it's hard to stop half-way through. The only reason Part 2 ended up being complex was because I was rushing to put up the video. It's hard even for myself to follow. That's why I added more diagrams and notes into video description. The reason I ended up with that many wires is because I applied all 3 mods and had to design them to avoid conflict. Had to think of all the possibilities, i.e. what if there is no USB present when the machine is booting vs. what if there is? What if the switch was left in the upward position. What it was down? etc. The fewer options you go for, the less soldering you have to do.
enilenis Thank you so much for your quick reply. I ordered the drive. Btw, I have a soldering iron. I was wondering. Does it matter what type of soldering iron I use? I just have a cheap Black and Decker one that I got at a home improvement store. Also, I think that I get what you’re saying. Basically, you were problem solving and designing these mods as you were making the video?
Any soldering iron would do. I have a fancy one with thermal regulation I thought I'd need, but I bought it years ago and hardly ever take out. A cheap hardware store version is fine for most jobs. As for problem solving - yes, it's all improvised. Filming the process, I find, is too much of a hassle and easily doubles the time. Even though I work on electronic projects every weekend, I don't upload as often, because most things I just do for myself. I also tend to record a lot, but edit very little. Videos are mostly for my own reference if I have to backtrack or recall what something looked like before the mod. If I manage to collect enough stuff, sometimes I put together a clip, but most of the time I don't. I just want to finished whatever I'm working on and move on. Restoring a 486 computer from 1993 right now. Contemplating whether to make a video out of it. Never enough time for things.
So, I have the Gotek successfully plugged in and I dumped the files that you provided onto the Gotek. I realized that your files are intended for the MC-300. I actually have the MC-500 MKII. How would I go about making a similar file system for the OS intended for my machine? Also, how do you secure the Gotok to the metal bracket? I didn't see you do that in the video. Lastly, the gap is much larger on the MC-500 MKII would this be a good face plate cut out to order? www.amazon.com/StarTech-3-5-Inch-5-25-Inch-Mounting-Bracket/dp/B000HLZXH2
Mi puoi preparare un usb con già caricato il super mrc per mc 500 mk2 e spedirmelo ?? Di modo che io li Monti solamente sulla macchina , chiaramente pagando in anticipo
Everything you need is provided in the description, including an archive with all the Roland files. For 500Mk2 you'd be using 002.IMG (or b02 when loading from the thumb drive). It would be much easier for you to buy all things locally.
You probably have an incorrect Gotek drive model. SFRM72 only displays firmware version if the buttons are pressed on bootup. SFR1M44 will format USB stick if you hold the buttons. So to me it sounds like you have the wrong device.
enilenis ciao, in effetti il gotek che ho io è sbagliato, L ho acquistato su Amazon chiedendo quello giusto da te confermato ma mi hanno mandato uno sbagliato, ho contestato la consegna ed appena arriva il prodotto nuovo ci riprovo, molte grazie per L interesse
In v1 version of his mod, he was lifting the entire USB plug, and passing all wires through a bigger switch. I did tests to see if breaking all wires was necessary and figure that of 4 connectors +5V was the target. But while simplifying in one area, I deliberately overcomplicated the rest. To be honest, the project was an excuse to try out an ATtiny.
@@enilenis I don't need an excuse to try out anything, I just want the darn thing to work with my workstation...and the risk of bricking the Gotek and thus losing my money on it is high.
Thank you for the complement. I am no expert and have no formal education in electronics. I read docs, watch tutorials and google stuff, like everyone else. Someone who knows how to re-flash Gotek, is probably watching this and laughing, over how much effort went into fixing, what could've been done in firmware with the ARM chip itself.
Do I detect sarcasm? Yes, I did cram way too much info into a short clip, but the process itself is not difficult. Don't let the wires scare you away. The piece with the breadboard was from the time when I was still tweaking the code to achieve optimal timing of the circuit. I was shooting as I was researching the project. In the end it ended up being way less congested. If you were to do part 1 and part 2 without the last bit, you'd get away with a single switch and 2 or 3 wires. That's it! 10 minutes of work tops. Also, like I said, it is totally possible to work with the sequencer without doing any of this. The mod suggestions are for people who are never quite happy with their device until it's absolutely perfect.
My congratulations for having gotten the objective! there was something good and little sarcasm hi hi hi. If one day sell a USB Floppy how this, let me know and I buy it to you. Thank you very much and happy below :)
I know the video's hard to follow. I was rushing, and it sort of made sense in my head, but now I'm rewatching it, and thinking it'd be hard to follow. Few people did and props to you, crazies, for understanding what the hell I was saying. Also, looks like Roland finally took down the download section for MC-300/500 OS files. My repository's all that's left, unless they moved the files some place I don't know. Sadly I didn't archive everything off there, as I received a pair of MC-80's later, and those don't have the latest firmware. That's on my project list.
Wow. I respect your multiskills😊
Thanks for this, just did the switch mod on mine. Much nicer than taking the USB stick out.
Glad it worked out for you. What doesn't seem like a big deal at first, adds up to a significant annoyance, once you repeat it couple of dozen times. And if there is a potential fix, why not do it. My rule of thumb is if the mod costs less than half of the thing being modified and makes it twice as good, then it's totally worth it.
Another great instructional video for all us plain-Jane Gotek owners.I'm looking forward to trying these mods!
Thanks and good luck with your upgrades.
👍👌➿➿➿➿very fast but very useful. For me, an other step will be to externalizing the power supply 12v 5v, to be mobile and using solar energy. An other thing will be to take off metal parts, and make it a table composer integrated in plate racks like the Roland boutique norm. Will see, I have the Roland MC 500, four tracks are enough for me. One question , the guy who given me his MC 500 was running current floppy disks without problems. And I have a stock of ones, so, I appreciate you given all those i formations, and I am first going to take off metal and making it a rack table without power supply directly inside, then I see if I adapt the modifications you made, very interesting about the USB switch. I saw by past that there is also floppy drives emulations working with SD cards inside? Is it better?
Why I take off metal parts in All my Studio?!... Ah this is a long story. But first, this is because Earth Sun near future Induction, lol, and also making my studio mobile in a tiny house, I need to take out weight for all my material. About power supply, they will be the first to melt but mostly, I need to Supply power with solar and or wind energy, and putting all power supply out of my home, if needed, mostly we have material working under 5, 6, 8, 9, 12, 19, and 19v, depend of amperage specified , but old material, ans some effects racks dont use lot of energy, the power supply can be made by regulation boxes, very common for effects pedals.
So as that, the MC 500 can be light, and plate, with its pretty keys to play live integrated to other racks. Useful then to not having to manipulate the USB key. 🙏🤗🧡💚
very good
I did everything exactly as you demonstrated, I had issues with the cheap programmer eventually used an arduino uno to program the ATtiny85. Now the issue is that my gotek only increments the left digit once, not ten times like the one in the video. I wonder if there is a change I can make in the program to have it increment the addition nine times I need?
Hmm. There is a delay in the code. I tweaked my counter to run as quickly as possible. You can increase the delay to see if your gotek is too slow to respond. Also, if only one digit scrolls, then check connections to both button leads. I have digits scrolling only on one digit also during a test, because I only had one wire hooked up.
Hi,I have recently installed the gotek in my mc 500 mark2. I have tried to understand your instructions for saving and loading songs but i,m sorry i,m not technically minded, would it be possible for you to put a video up showing step by step how to create a song ( a few notes), save to USB, and create a MRP stick for a live performance, thankyou, Dave
In part 1 I show basic operation. Part 2 is indeed, for more electronically inclined. Gotek is simple. Right button - save from USB to Gotek (at which point sequencer thinks it has a diskette), and left button saves from Gotek to USB. That's it. Number on screen selects name of the file you're writing to or from on the USB. If the file already exists when you save, it gets overwitten, if there is no file, then it's auto-created. For the USB, only requirement is that it's formatted as FAT32.
@@enilenis Thankyou for that, I assume I can make MRP sticks for live performance, is that correct.
Have u jumpered JA to enable drive ready signal on your gotek?
Yes I did. At 3:21 you can see where the jumpers are at. I was hoping that toggling the pin would trigger a diskette change, but on this specific model it doesn't produce the kind of outcome Roland expects. Pin 1 on the ribbon has to go to Pin 2. That's the only way to do it. You can just short them with a single pushbutton and that's it. Shorting does not affect the ARM CPU, because it has current protection on those lines. With the mods I went for maximum results. If you are to do fewer than 3 steps, then the mod gets progressively easier. There are diagrams I posted in the description, if you're electronically inclined.
Hello ENILENIS, Ken you help? I acquired in 2nd hand a ROLAND RA800 module, which I think is equal to the Roland g800, but without a keyboard. It works quite well and with a fantastic sonority according to age. The module did not have a floppy drive. I put one of 1.44 Mgs, of the used ones in the computers but I cannot read anything from her. Is the RA 800 floppy drive special for the module? When I try to format a diskette on it, it says (DISK NOT READY) and if I try to read files with the extension .STL when I load in play it says to insert the diskette. When I connect the module on startup the drive light gives a wink, but it will not turn on again. If you can help, or some ideas of what you will be passing thank you.
Do you have any other floppy drives to test with, because you may have a bad one. Also, what about the connector? Does RA800 have its own floppy cable or did you use your own? Roland may have its own wiring. Twisted section of the ribbon that sets device id has to match. There is also a possibility that the device may be brand sensitive. Most floppy drives are similar, but there are minor standard differences and response timing may be off. Many possibilities.
I looked at RA800 demo diskettes online (since I don't have RA800 itself). The sizes are in 1.44MB range, so at least the drive type should match, if yours is 1.44.
Does the drive do a spinup during the bootup, or does the light simply blink with no mechanical action? If the drive doesn't spin at all, then it's either device ID and ribbon wiring mismatch, or maybe the drive is defective.
See if there are any pin overrides on your floppy drive, if any configs can be changed. Would you be able to send me pictures of what the hookup looks like? You can email them to me, as without pictures I'm left guessing.
Hello HENILENIS, thank you very much for having responded. Last weekend, I tried 4 floppy drives from different brands but none worked. I kept thinking that will be a special drive type for the equipment. However, I already had a USB Gotek SFR1M44-U100K drive, in which I chanteed with the soldering iron pin 1 with pin 2 and put the jumpers in JA, S1, MO. It worked at first. I used the USB-FLOPPY-MANANGER-v1.40i software (ipcas gmbh) to format a USB pen drive. The program created 99 folders or blocks of 1,390MB. I've recorded a few of themes whit rhythms for the AR-800 or R-800 and it works great. So, glad that I stayed, I'll come back to thank you for your response and forever.
Thank you
Every time I try to upload or verify the Arduino program into my AtTINY 85 it keeps coming up with an error.
"Sketch uses 890 bytes (10%) of program storage space. Maximum is 8192 bytes. Global variables use 9 bytes (1%) of dynamic memory, leaving 503 bytes for local variables. Maximum is 512 bytes."
The readout says everything is fine. Only 10% of storage is used and only 1% of RAM. No indication as to what the actual error is. Is there anything else that gets printed? I know multiple people did this mod and had no issues, even on ATtiny45. Here are the settings in Arduino IDE that I'm using. Make sure that board, processor and internal clock are set the same way. Programmer should match whichever chip programmer you're using:www.enilenis.com/projects/mc300/arduino.jpg
The chip also has to have a burned bootloader, which is the last item in the menu. Most chips you buy come with bootloader. If not, you have to run that function before you can use it.
But if you want to go the whole hog, flashing the firmware with 'FlashFloppy', adding a 0.91-inch OLED screen and a rotary encoder with push button function is miles better...
Don't forget the flux capacitor!
@@enilenis Back to the future!! However, I am seriously considering this mod for my W30 as although I've had my Gotek for a week, its shortcomings are becoming more apparent. Problem is, I don't have any of the equipment (soldering iron, hot glue gun) nor materials (wire, header pins, USB A to A connector); nor the money to buy them
@d roses Most of my supplies come from years of dumpster diving and salvaging. I have a habit of stripping things down to the last screw. A decade ago when people were getting rid of comptuters in favor of tablets and phones it was paradise. Felt like the supply of parts was never going to end and then as quickly as it started, everything ended. Now I find maybe 2 abandoned computers a year. I love using IDE cables as a source of wire, because you can peel it like string cheese having only as many wires as needed.
@@enilenis Unlikely to find a soldering iron, hot glue gun or other tools I need dumpster diving. And anyway, in the area where I live that kind of activity is not really possible - at least not without getting arrested for theft or trespassing....
ill keep my opinions to myself. Thanks.
Olá amigo, dá pra fazer o mesmo com o Roland MC 50 ?
Sim, você pode fazer isso.
Do you load the sequenced tunes to the RAM in the MC 300? are the files standard mdi or mrc or both? I have an MC 80 that I've crashed two hard drives on . I have an MC 500 MK 2 thats been in the closet for 15 years.
MC 300, 500 and 50 work with MRC files. A special utility called MRM is required to convert files into and out of standard MIDI. It's loaded same way as the OS. Compositions are loaded into RAM while you work on them. When you're done, you either dump them to the same disk (or virtual partition) OS came from, or you can save onto a fresh pre-formated diskette (or virtual partition).
Speaking of MC 80 - I've been looking to buy one for months. How are you linking it, ignoring hard drive issues.
I meant to ask how does it load from the gotek to the sequencers ram? maybe another short demo vid?
MC80 is a great machine! there is a 1 on Ebay now for $450. Id like to find a discover 5M. Many for sale in Europe none in the states. How much would you charge to do the job on my MC500 MK2?
Gotek has onboard flash memory which stores a single diskette image. When no USB media is inserted left and right buttons let you pre-select the file name (ex: b001 on Gotek's display = 001.IMG on USB). Next you put the thumb drive in and with the right button load it into Gotek's flash, at which point the device begins acting like a conventional floppy drive with a diskette in it. You can even pull the USB out and reboot. The virtual diskette will stay there, letting you operate the sequencer like you normally would.
If you compose music and save files, all the changes will also go into Gotek's internal flash. To dump the contents of that flash onto a thumb drive, you once again, start by selecting the file index, say b002, then insert the USB and with the left button write file 002.IMG to the USB thumb drive. If the file doesn't exist, Gotek will create one or overwrite 002.IMG if such file is already present.
Regarding doing mods for other people, I prefer giving instructions. Spare time is always in short supply. I don't even get enough of it to post regularly to TH-cam.
The MC80 it shall be
I’m confident that I can do the mod on Part 1. I’m nervous about Part 2 though. I’m not so great with soldering.
If you commit to an upgrade, I'll walk you through. Don't worry.
Part 2 is fully optional. You can be up and running with just Part 1. I was just trying to see how far I can take the upgrade before moving on. Changing diskette images? You can take the USB out, change the number and put it back in. Switch mod is for that and if that's the only thing you need, a single trace cut and 2 wires is all it's going to take. Getting the counter to go up to b00 - also, something you can (and is expected to do) with Gotek buttons. Using a microcontroller is a bit of an overkill, though I've seen people follow my exact instructions, because let's be honest, one you know something is possible, it's hard to stop half-way through.
The only reason Part 2 ended up being complex was because I was rushing to put up the video. It's hard even for myself to follow. That's why I added more diagrams and notes into video description. The reason I ended up with that many wires is because I applied all 3 mods and had to design them to avoid conflict. Had to think of all the possibilities, i.e. what if there is no USB present when the machine is booting vs. what if there is? What if the switch was left in the upward position. What it was down? etc.
The fewer options you go for, the less soldering you have to do.
enilenis Thank you so much for your quick reply. I ordered the drive. Btw, I have a soldering iron. I was wondering. Does it matter what type of soldering iron I use? I just have a cheap Black and Decker one that I got at a home improvement store.
Also, I think that I get what you’re saying. Basically, you were problem solving and designing these mods as you were making the video?
Any soldering iron would do. I have a fancy one with thermal regulation I thought I'd need, but I bought it years ago and hardly ever take out. A cheap hardware store version is fine for most jobs.
As for problem solving - yes, it's all improvised. Filming the process, I find, is too much of a hassle and easily doubles the time. Even though I work on electronic projects every weekend, I don't upload as often, because most things I just do for myself. I also tend to record a lot, but edit very little. Videos are mostly for my own reference if I have to backtrack or recall what something looked like before the mod. If I manage to collect enough stuff, sometimes I put together a clip, but most of the time I don't. I just want to finished whatever I'm working on and move on.
Restoring a 486 computer from 1993 right now. Contemplating whether to make a video out of it. Never enough time for things.
enilenis Awesome! Thank you again. I have everything that I need to make my way through the first video. I’ll let you know how it goes.
So, I have the Gotek successfully plugged in and I dumped the files that you provided onto the Gotek. I realized that your files are intended for the MC-300. I actually have the MC-500 MKII. How would I go about making a similar file system for the OS intended for my machine?
Also, how do you secure the Gotok to the metal bracket? I didn't see you do that in the video. Lastly, the gap is much larger on the MC-500 MKII would this be a good face plate cut out to order?
www.amazon.com/StarTech-3-5-Inch-5-25-Inch-Mounting-Bracket/dp/B000HLZXH2
Mi puoi preparare un usb con già caricato il super mrc per mc 500 mk2 e spedirmelo ?? Di modo che io li Monti solamente sulla macchina , chiaramente pagando in anticipo
Everything you need is provided in the description, including an archive with all the Roland files. For 500Mk2 you'd be using 002.IMG (or b02 when loading from the thumb drive). It would be much easier for you to buy all things locally.
@@enilenis lo so ma il problema che io acquisto l'emulatore e quello che mandano è sempre sbagliato, non saprei dove comprarlo altrimenti
Cio ci ho provato in tutti i modi ma non funziona, quando accendo il MC 500 tenendo premuti i due pulsanti mi parte la formattazione
You probably have an incorrect Gotek drive model. SFRM72 only displays firmware version if the buttons are pressed on bootup. SFR1M44 will format USB stick if you hold the buttons. So to me it sounds like you have the wrong device.
enilenis ciao, in effetti il gotek che ho io è sbagliato, L ho acquistato su Amazon chiedendo quello giusto da te confermato ma mi hanno mandato uno sbagliato, ho contestato la consegna ed appena arriva il prodotto nuovo ci riprovo, molte grazie per L interesse
I think the USB connect/disconnect SPDT toggle switch mod as described on the DIY section of llamamusic.com is an easier project to do for noobs.
In v1 version of his mod, he was lifting the entire USB plug, and passing all wires through a bigger switch. I did tests to see if breaking all wires was necessary and figure that of 4 connectors +5V was the target. But while simplifying in one area, I deliberately overcomplicated the rest. To be honest, the project was an excuse to try out an ATtiny.
@@enilenis I don't need an excuse to try out anything, I just want the darn thing to work with my workstation...and the risk of bricking the Gotek and thus losing my money on it is high.
Next life I would like to born as intelligent as you - dear God, how did you discovered that!?
Thank you for the complement. I am no expert and have no formal education in electronics. I read docs, watch tutorials and google stuff, like everyone else. Someone who knows how to re-flash Gotek, is probably watching this and laughing, over how much effort went into fixing, what could've been done in firmware with the ARM chip itself.
That easy !!... LOL
Do I detect sarcasm? Yes, I did cram way too much info into a short clip, but the process itself is not difficult.
Don't let the wires scare you away. The piece with the breadboard was from the time when I was still tweaking the code to achieve optimal timing of the circuit. I was shooting as I was researching the project. In the end it ended up being way less congested. If you were to do part 1 and part 2 without the last bit, you'd get away with a single switch and 2 or 3 wires. That's it! 10 minutes of work tops.
Also, like I said, it is totally possible to work with the sequencer without doing any of this. The mod suggestions are for people who are never quite happy with their device until it's absolutely perfect.
My congratulations for having gotten the objective!
there was something good and little sarcasm hi hi hi. If one day sell a USB Floppy how this, let me know and I buy it to you.
Thank you very much and happy below :)