When I worked at Chrysler Trenton Engine 68-71 production on these heads was 500 parts per 8 hour shift. Foreman would get a bonus for anything over the production number, so production was pushed hard.
I worked at Chrysler plant #2 in Fenton Missouri. (st. louis) worked in the body shop from 84 to 90. no one today thinks anybody worked their butt's off in these car plants. 🇺🇸
@@kurtzimmerman1637 That's mostly because of the way they rust so quickly. The other big two also had problems, those ford fastback's? They rust out like crazy around the window seam.
Gary's experience actually shows the real reason there's so much variation on Slant parts, compared to modern engines. Slants were pumped out as fast as possible, in an era before CNC and assembly robots, the pressure to push them out to meet demand is what led to lower quality control, and that is true of all high volume production of the 60's and 70's.
Having worked in the Tool Room of an engine plant I can absolutely confirm that their were foremen that were completely concerned about their numbers. I remember one time I got sent out because they were having a problem with actually pushing the blocks off of the fixture clamping pads. The production foreman wanted the hydraulic pressure turned up. Putting a gage on the pump I found it was already at the specified pressure. I then asked the set-up man to pull one of the drills out. The drills were completely shot in terms of cutting ability. This was on main bearing cap tapped holes. Turned out the drills were a week past their scheduled change point. Something on the order of 4000 machine cycles. Sharp drills, every thing worked fine. Another time we spent a weekend rebuilding a milling head that cut the top of the head on each end for the valve cover. Hot everything re-installed and we had the same problem. Again I asked to see the tooling. The cutters were one RH and one LH. They had the carbide inserts for the other handed cutter in the side they were having issues with. Proper inserts, problem disappeared. All because nobody properly analyzed the problem to start with.
@@mpetersen6 I almost lost both my hands when a machine that was supposed be off suddenly clamped down on me. Turns out the day shift foreman had a suckass electrician bypass the switch and wire to stay hot all the time to keep production going. Then the foreman tried to write me up for working in an unsafe manner. Same foreman on days used to also run the tooling till worn out and out of spec. I worked 2nd shift so one day I got tired of changing tooling right at the start of my shift. I saved all the worn tooling and installed it before I left. The next day the day shift foreman started screaming at me as to why everything was out of spec. I told him in front of the general foreman that it was his day shift tooling and why was his last cylinder head within spec and my 1st head was not. He started to say something but the general foreman cut him off and kind of smirked at me and said don't do that again. I said OK and walked away. Another day in the life of a factory rat.
I take great offensive to this! I actually AM a stone age man that is three days into an opiate rehab and now you’ve thrown me into a relapse!!!!!! Luckily the rest of the video talked me off of the ledge. What I love about UTG is the fact that it’s no bullshit. It’s no fluff. It’s no glam. It’s no bling. It’s just like my dad talking to me about shit back when I was a kid in the seventies. It’s simple if you choose to listen. Thank you uncle Tony. Keep up the good work. 👍
They say a picture says a thousand words, but UT speaks a thousand pictures and you can understand every word. Simple to listen to understand. NO crap or bs comes out of his mouth. Just love to listen to him. Great channel. Thanks.
:16 in, the combustion chambers look like concerned faces!! They're afraid of the "porting" that's coming! Had a good laugh at that. Once again, Thanks for the wisdom Uncle Tony!!
Your TH-cam channel is hands down my favorite channel to watch and I work for a TH-cam channel called red beards garage here in East Tennessee. I have dozens of engine building books but I don't have to tell you this but everything you said is true. Thank you very much for sharing your knowledge with all of us Uncle Tony you are awesome.
closertothetruth if choking on metal dust and fishing chunks of cast iron out of your eyes and ballsack is your definition of fun, you should expand your social horizons
@@cruzinezy1968 we use powerful industrial vacs on the other side when we do it , its not that bad , there are far worse things in life , i rather do this than the hell on earth ive been through any day
Every modern head will love some work. General rule for modern heads, Dont touch the intake side unless you leave a slightly ruff surface, Exhaust doesnt care what you do as long as you increase and straighten flow
trillrif axegrindor gonna disagree on the vortech head being the best At least if you’re talking about gen 2 sbc stuff as GM did make some iron heads for early LS based trucks that flow pretty dam good
So slick the exhaust and lightly work the intake, then gasket match. Works for me. Did a port and gasket match on my dad’s 340 stroker , made a world of difference...and took me a week to do it. Getting more anxious to get to work on my 65 Valiant /6!! Just gotta find the time! Keep them coming UT, I’m soaking it all in!
Man your hand @ 5:56ish ........ I haven’t seen a wound like that since my dad layed down his Harley to avoid being run over (1980’s) ...... his side was like your hand for a while!!!! Take care guy!!!! Órale Oscar much appreciated
I absolutely love the inline six how to videos , everything is LS this Or Hemi that , don’t get me wrong those are great motors but these old school motors are killer , and thanks to Oscar the very generous viewer for helping out Uncle Tony . Cheers
My dad's 225 70 duster runs low 13s on a 75 shot of juice. He's hoping to drop a second or more by installing a std trans and a 125 shot. No weight stripping either. Also, our dragstrip is appx 1700ft above sea level.
Hello Uncle T! Fellow viewer here in Middle Tennessee. I love the series. You have taught me really good old school information for when I get my first project car...Thank you!
@Kurt Zimmerman My dads first car was a 69 Camaro with the 250 six and 3 speed manual. It had an Offenhauser aluminum intake with a progressive linkage two barrel carb, split header that went back into single exhaust with a glasspack, a bigger clutch and Bellhousing from another stock GM application and a 4.10 limited slip rear. The car would hook up and launch harder than anything my dad had encountered on the street. He even outran a big block 4 speed Nova with it once because the guy was having so much traction problems. That Nova was one of the hot cars in our area at the time too, it humiliated the guy and nearly started a fight fist in the parking lot.
Hi Tony . Try notching both sides of the exhaust port next to the valve guide to get more flow around the stem. Bolt the head on the bare block to see if you can open the combustion chamber around the valves to the bore size or eye brow the block to suit head to 1/8 inch from the top ring .
Their is a channel that did a build on the gm 4.2 inline 6 . They took 2 & turboed them . However they make it look easy & leave more ? Than answers . We are all glad with your videos you leave us with a heep of answers . Thank you
Keep this type of content up Tony you and Kathy are doing a bang up job! Anyone who does their own port and polish job is a bad ass! Especially on Iron heads. I did a set of big block Chevy cast iron heads, then I hand lapped the valves in (Did not know the drill trick yet). Talk about dirty and time consuming. But at the end I had a great feeling of accomplishment, especially when I finally got to light the Big Block off and take her for her first test drive. Doing my own heads gave me a greater appreciation for the guys who do it for a living and also showed me why a port job is so expensive.
I use the Mondello bowl cut percentages: 89-90% Intake valve diameter & 86-87% Exhaust valve diameter. Set the bowl cut percentages and blend without digging behind the guide.
Chevy small block heads with 1.94" intakes were machined to fit the 2.02 valves, if you didn't relieve the intake side of the combustion chamber you left a lot of power on the table. If you never tried porting, deburr exterior cast areas and get the feel and learn to avoid kick back and grinder shimmy. Then venture to the critical unforgiving areas like the valve seats when you have confidence.
As always awsome video . Great for those just starting out . Im on a poor mans buget but was able to buy some good quality die grinder bits for cast iron ect. I gasket matched all ports: intake, head , and exhaust manifold .cleaned up the bowels and ports polished the valves. Valves had been back cut . I also put a larger inner diameter exhaust manifold pipe flange i bought from O'reallys and put on 2-1/2 inch pipe single exhaust system with a flow tech afterburner muffler. flows really well and doesn't burn out the pipe flange gasket anymore .i noticed a big different in power and torque and fuel efficiency .
I have a disassembled lower portion of a slant six tied into 68 barracuda sitting under budget tarp, and another slant six from eBay sitting on an engine stand for rebuild. I am going to rebuild the one on the stand, mostly tore down. The porting fine element of curiosity for place to begin. It looks kind of simple, the idea had circulated in other conversations on VW air-cooled I had noticed other places. Mopar 💪
Thanks to Oscar for helping to fund the Slant 6 Project your the man!!! I bet that porting is a pain in the ass I know when I did my V8 heads it seemed to take forever
I read these comments and see all the avice given and it amazes me we have a guy showing how to back yard mechanic on a budget and better yet wrenched on top fuel cars so this guy knows how to generate the maximum horsepower out of an engine without breaking the bank and taking out a second loan on your house. Geez what part of building on a budget that anyone can do is not understood.
As a medical professional I must say that your burned hand looks pretty good, all things considered. Good thing you have thick skin. Did we learn anything about hot steel? Seriously though, it looks good. Expect my bill on a 30 day net.
The first car I drove was a 61 valiant. Three on the floor,dead slow,but,hey,I was driving! Love your channel,wish Chrysler had contracted with cosworth to build a proper cross flow head and intake manifold setup. The slant could have had a future.....
Have you ever used fine brass screen material at the gasket on the intake ports for greater atomization? I did with what I believe was great results, no formal test. I did not go for horsepower but rather greater economy. Horsepower was the plus side of the build. It was a 69 Valiant 4 door. Not pretty but was reliable until I let a shop work on it. At that point I couldn’t afford to fix it. It looks like your burn is healing well.
I was taught to match up the gasket to the bolt holes and then take a paint marker and dab around the ports to show what material needs to come off but I never thought of spray paint! Always learning more cool stuff
Sounds good to me on the intake port head port slightly bigger than the intake manafold so there's no interference when the fule mixture leaves the intake manafold!!
Just clean 'em up, give good 3 angle valve job, and clean up shrouding.....it will really help low-end torque as it boosts early flow at low lift. Really good point on the difference between intake/exhaust porting. Smooth intakes = "puddling" of the fuel.
I no longer feel like a lesser being just because I tend to leave things a bit coarse, when porting. I know you really want to polish the exhaust ports, but I always seem to run out of sand paper rolls or patience or both. Welcome to rehab, Tony.
theres a lot you can do depending on just how daily drivable you want to keep that trusty old six popper id smooth and open the oil return holes and smooth out the spark plug reliefs a little as well they can get tricky so i wouldnt go too far with them then have the head planed 010 to 020 for a slight bump in compression
I've done a fair amount of it and enjoyed the work. A big help is to hook a vacuum up to the opposite side you're working on to really cut down on the mess. getting comfortable is also important as is hearing protection.
Also using a electric grinder is much easier then the air compressor constantly running. Tech Tip: Dremels don’t last that long porting iron heads either, burned a few up that way lol. Also sandpaper rolls are cost effective to port heads, carbide cutters get expensive and make a lot of noise.
@@South_0f_Heaven_ Our shop had a 1/4 HP Foredom cable porting tool with a variable speed pedal, it worked very well. I've also worked with air and electric die grinders. Porting is tricky work, to know what you're doing you need a flow bench and how to use it. There's a couple good books who's work still stands, Phil irving's "tuning for speed" and "tuning secrets of Smokey Yunick". Smokey's book really covers his head work and findings well, and how to build engines that will last races and win.
Oldbmwr100rs Yup, the best way to do it these days is send the head out to get CNC ported. Don’t have to worry about hitting the water jackets or making it worse either. People often make the mistake of polishing the intakes which is always a bad idea as the fuel will puddle. Aluminum heads are much easier to port and don’t take three times the effort of doing cast heads. Still stand by using the sandpaper rolls, much more control and you won’t destroy anything if you skip like what happens with a carbide tool. Plus they don’t jump around all over the place either. But yeah, porting is a art and so much knowledge has been lost over the years. These days it’s cheaper and cost effective to just buy aftermarket heads as they are superior to almost any older cylinder heads right out of the box.
@@UncleTonysGarage Trust me, I have seen MUCH worse porting jobs in person. I saw a Honda head that was completely ruined because the guy had buzzed the valve guides down in the ports.... When the fool put the head on his engine, it burned a lot of oil, and as soon as he spun the engine up to 8,000RPM it went * pop * because the valves bent. What you have done is far from bad :) Pretty? No... functional? Yes :)
Oh, how I DON'T miss porting cast iron heads! Did any of you ever weld them up with brass rods? Talk about work!!! But man, you could make some power if you were willing and able to do the work.
Tony, have you ever been out to the Bonneville Salt Flats for speed week? I was watching some salt flats video and i thought about just how freaking awesome a video series a car build and then the whole Speed Week experience would be. The rule book gives plenty of instruction on building to pass tech. The very spirit of Bonneville is steeped in home built creations. They prefer mild steel roll cages with gusseting, MIG welded. SCTA and all the racers have a great time good for lifetime memories. If you pick the project car and engine choice wisely (this is what the rules book is good for) you may find a record that looks soft. Something perhaps around 180-220 cu. in. perhaps? Then see what kind of results you could achieve with a slant 6 either blown or unblown. Even if you never get anywhere near a record it would still get tons of views. "Blown" means any method of boosting from helix to centrifugal blower to turbo. You can build it to run on fuel and a nitrous system puts a car in a fuel class. Dry lakes and salt flats are under the aegis of sanctioning bodies that remember where they came from. This is why they actually prefer to see mild steel cages in cars. There is a potential problem i could see developing though. Uncle Tony gets hooked on land speed racing and installments continue regularly the rest of your active adult life.
That burn sure looks rough, but also looks like it's healing ok. My little motorcycle header pipe burn scabbed but was not bigger than the size of a nickel. I think I fared a little better on that.
I remember all the boys on the 1980s had to have the heads “ported and polished” and polished meant like a mirror..... Hours and hours of wet and dry sanding by hand Then they worked out it’s no point doing the polish on the exhaust side because the carbon still sticks anyway and stuffs up the polish.... and on the intake side they worked out a mirror polish was not the best for flow and fuel atomisation what was better was a mild coarse finish but still ported.... Something about gasses flowing better with multiple small ‘eddys’ rather than in a ‘laminar’ fashion.... and the fuel atomisation was a bonus.....! I wonder if that’s still the case?
I gotta say on the duster you found all the key tells it was a hodgepodge. While it still has value and I'd say half of them around now are built from several cars. On that one there was too many discrepancy parts. Your were being gracious at 8 grand. You interested in a 81 Diplomat Cop car punched out worked over 440? Still marked with equipment. A buddy of mine might want to sell. Great vids. Thanks for sharing.
If you had a Flow bench you would see that the Ari flows from the Roof to the Short turn on the intake and from the short turn to the roof on the Ex. Air acts just like electricy , it will find the path of least resistance . You can find this by using a plastic cylinder the size as your bore and a Vacuum cleaner and a piece of string, Just put the valve at say .400 lift and suck air from the bottom of the cylinder, you will be amazed at what you find. And when you do this you will see how important the Short Turn radius really is. This is one reason the Quench pad is so important, which this head has no quench, a bad thing.
I wish I knew you in the middle 90 s found a very early Truck slant called The Yellow block more nickel in the block did not use the head do not like the spark plug tubes prone to leak so i used the oriignal head from the car i was building 1978 Dodge Aspen Wiseco supplied the 100 over pistons local shop near me did a static dynamic balance pistons rods crank flywheel I took .125 off. Line bore the block . for the mains deck the block ,125 Cam Clifford 290 dur 540 550 lift 3/8 molly push rods....then head time...did what you are doing ,100 off the head i used chevy 305 valves 188 in 150 ext....dont have on my...lol bronze guides springs duel set for 600 lift cam so would not have coil bind..... i had 2 different intakes..lol first one i built using the original bolted to the old truck block head cut fab a new plenum put the secondary away from the head used a 650 dp single line had to yse a 3.5 power valve 58 in primary 64 second.....if ya want more info reply love your channel you know your Sheet keep up the good work thanks Glynn fron Arkansas
Can you use cast iron welding rod and fill in the undercut on the intake port? The new cast iron rod works well on cast iron. The intake doesn't take a lot of heat so I would consider using it. I wouldn't graze it because brass expands at a different rate than iron and might come loose and enter the engine, and you know what would happen next.
On that back cut of the intake, before i suggest anything, i know flow is everything, but you are dealing with a thumb over the hose type situation. Ever thought of building up epoxy into that back cut? I know it might drop overall flow, but to straighten the flow, it might help it flow better. I've been a believer of smoother flow is better then overall flow. That back cut does the same as the ridge on top of the valves, you talked about in a past vid. I'd think smoother flow would do more than having a killer flow number but at the cost of restrictions
Man you made me feel better about the cylinder head that I put away a couple years ago for a project for when I need to replace my current head. I know its savable now lol. You talking about engine builder the ebay seller that sells engine parts?
My brother-in-law used to check something with a "flow rate" after he did Porting and polishing!? Anyone know what im saying? He said he used air pressure to check the flow rate for when he's polishing, he said you want the same amount of "resistance" or "flow"through each head
@@thecloneguyz - what that means, is that after most of the work was done, each port was checked to see if it's Cubic Feet per Minute flow rate was matched to each previously completed port. If the ports all flow the same amount, then during each intake cycle they will flow the same amount of air and fuel in to the cylinder, so each cylinder will make the same amount of power. If an engine is perfectly balanced mechanically, and makes the same power from each cylinder, it will idle with nearly zero vibration, and there will be less stresses within the engine as runs, so it will last longer and deliver its performance smoothly.
Why no short side radius material removal? After picking the brains of a lot of pro racers, I did my own motorcycle. On the motorcycle engine, hemi-head, a LOT of material came out of the bottom of the exhaust port and the power that motor made was nothing short of amazing.
Is it possible to fill the undercuts and reshape the intake ports with a high temperature epoxy or solder? I would set that head up on a mill and rough out those exhaust manifold ports a lot quicker then a die grinder.
@False Flag Why I mentioned creating a surface for the filler to hold onto. My old boss in the case of alloy heads (on a motorcycle) would add anything from lumps of weld or run screws into the side of the port and then fill and grind. I honestly felt the same as you, what if it comes off..
@@Oldbmwr100rs I have worked in heavy industry for decades and have found some of the epoxies to be pretty durable. When reinforced with a few screws like you mentioned it should work. I don't know much about the solders, but would like to see some one try.
This head is being prepared for a race engine. At some point, might you comment on which of the modifications you wont NOT recommend if one were building a street engine. I'm thinking longer term reliability??
Have you guys seen that rubber hand glove dip? You keep it warm and you dip your hand into it and within seconds it hardens and it's an instant glove plus it covers all your cuts and you can rip it off and redo it hundreds of times as much as needed
yes, it allows your engine to flow more air/fuel mixture when you open the throttle. If you want better mileage, put a brick under the gas pedal so that you can't go to wot.
Tony, one of those $25 Chinese "endoscopes" would a great borescope for closeups in cylinders heads & such. Are newer engines machined cleaner? Or have the new kids just forgotten how to cc, port, and polish cylinders?
I've never worked on the sixes...only small block Dodge...had a set of 340 heads.....I changed the value angles from 45 and 46.... To 15 and 30..... Helped me with the high compression.....ended up with 240 per cylinder.....mite help you?
“I have the porting skills of Stone Age man three days into opiate rehab” You had me at “Don’t judge me!” Carry on sir, this is awesome.
Opiate rehab?
You very funny Dr Jones.
HA HA HA! so funny!
Best analogy I have heard in a long time.
When I worked at Chrysler Trenton Engine 68-71 production on these heads was 500 parts per 8 hour shift. Foreman would get a bonus for anything over the production number, so production was pushed hard.
I worked at Chrysler plant #2 in Fenton Missouri. (st. louis) worked in the body shop from 84 to 90. no one today thinks anybody worked their butt's off in these car plants. 🇺🇸
@@kurtzimmerman1637 That's mostly because of the way they rust so quickly. The other big two also had problems, those ford fastback's? They rust out like crazy around the window seam.
Gary's experience actually shows the real reason there's so much variation on Slant parts, compared to modern engines. Slants were pumped out as fast as possible, in an era before CNC and assembly robots, the pressure to push them out to meet demand is what led to lower quality control, and that is true of all high volume production of the 60's and 70's.
Having worked in the Tool Room of an engine plant I can absolutely confirm that their were foremen that were completely concerned about their numbers. I remember one time I got sent out because they were having a problem with actually pushing the blocks off of the fixture clamping pads. The production foreman wanted the hydraulic pressure turned up. Putting a gage on the pump I found it was already at the specified pressure. I then asked the set-up man to pull one of the drills out. The drills were completely shot in terms of cutting ability. This was on main bearing cap tapped holes. Turned out the drills were a week past their scheduled change point. Something on the order of 4000 machine cycles. Sharp drills, every thing worked fine. Another time we spent a weekend rebuilding a milling head that cut the top of the head on each end for the valve cover. Hot everything re-installed and we had the same problem. Again I asked to see the tooling. The cutters were one RH and one LH. They had the carbide inserts for the other handed cutter in the side they were having issues with. Proper inserts, problem disappeared. All because nobody properly analyzed the problem to start with.
@@mpetersen6 I almost lost both my hands when a machine that was supposed be off suddenly clamped down on me. Turns out the day shift foreman had a suckass electrician bypass the switch and wire to stay hot all the time to keep production going. Then the foreman tried to write me up for working in an unsafe manner. Same foreman on days used to also run the tooling till worn out and out of spec. I worked 2nd shift so one day I got tired of changing tooling right at the start of my shift. I saved all the worn tooling and installed it before I left. The next day the day shift foreman started screaming at me as to why everything was out of spec. I told him in front of the general foreman that it was his day shift tooling and why was his last cylinder head within spec and my 1st head was not. He started to say something but the general foreman cut him off and kind of smirked at me and said don't do that again. I said OK and walked away. Another day in the life of a factory rat.
I take great offensive to this!
I actually AM a stone age man that is three days into an opiate rehab and now you’ve thrown me into a relapse!!!!!!
Luckily the rest of the video talked me off of the ledge.
What I love about UTG is the fact that it’s no bullshit. It’s no fluff. It’s no glam. It’s no bling. It’s just like my dad talking to me about shit back when I was a kid in the seventies. It’s simple if you choose to listen.
Thank you uncle Tony. Keep up the good work. 👍
So I see from your picture
I miss my Dad, I miss the talks we had in the 70s.........but mostly I miss my Dad.
Saint Mopar Uncle Tony De Feo... when he speaks Slant6 we Listen...
A.G. Bell's "Fundamentals of 4-stroke Tuning" is a good source if anyone still reads books. I keep that and the 2-stroke edition on my shelf.
They say a picture says a thousand words, but UT speaks a thousand pictures and you can understand every word. Simple to listen to understand. NO crap or bs comes out of his mouth. Just love to listen to him. Great channel. Thanks.
:16 in, the combustion chambers look like concerned faces!! They're afraid of the "porting" that's coming! Had a good laugh at that. Once again, Thanks for the wisdom Uncle Tony!!
Here he comes with that screwdriver again. "Harden" your hearts, boys.
I can't, I'm exhausted. I have a head ache.
Ok goodbye.
@@beezertwelvewashingbeard8703 LOL!
Haha I looked back again and saw it!
Remember a show 'LEXX' GOOGLE LEXX 790
"I have the porting skills of a Stone Age man 3 days into opioids rehab"
Jajaja el Tio Toño es una pistola
Very cool tip with the gasket and the spray paint! I'm guessing you could do that on the header or manifold side as well to port match, if applicable.
yup
Your TH-cam channel is hands down my favorite channel to watch and I work for a TH-cam channel called red beards garage here in East Tennessee. I have dozens of engine building books but I don't have to tell you this but everything you said is true. Thank you very much for sharing your knowledge with all of us Uncle Tony you are awesome.
so many modern heads barely need anything done, the old heads are more fun
closertothetruth if choking on metal dust and fishing chunks of cast iron out of your eyes and ballsack is your definition of fun, you should expand your social horizons
@@cruzinezy1968 Depends on the gal. Some it's worth it, some it's not!
@@cruzinezy1968 we use powerful industrial vacs on the other side when we do it , its not that bad , there are far worse things in life , i rather do this than the hell on earth ive been through any day
Every modern head will love some work. General rule for modern heads, Dont touch the intake side unless you leave a slightly ruff surface, Exhaust doesnt care what you do as long as you increase and straighten flow
trillrif axegrindor gonna disagree on the vortech head being the best
At least if you’re talking about gen 2 sbc stuff as GM did make some iron heads for early LS based trucks that flow pretty dam good
Good evening Uncle Tony and aunt Kathy nice trick with the gasket have a good night
So slick the exhaust and lightly work the intake, then gasket match. Works for me. Did a port and gasket match on my dad’s 340 stroker , made a world of difference...and took me a week to do it. Getting more anxious to get to work on my 65 Valiant /6!! Just gotta find the time! Keep them coming UT, I’m soaking it all in!
Man your hand @ 5:56ish ........ I haven’t seen a wound like that since my dad layed down his Harley to avoid being run over (1980’s) ...... his side was like your hand for a while!!!! Take care guy!!!! Órale Oscar much appreciated
I absolutely love the inline six how to videos , everything is LS this Or Hemi that , don’t get me wrong those are great motors but these old school motors are killer , and thanks to Oscar the very generous viewer for helping out Uncle Tony . Cheers
The gasket paint trick is dope. Thanks for sharing all your knowledge with us!
Love the Mopar content, Tony. Looking forward to a low budget Poly 318 build.
Mister, G. Very gracious of you! I think We All Thank You!!!
Thanks Uncle Tom and Oscar for letting this come true I’ve heard story of the six beating a Mild v8 but I’ve never seen it I love this unique motor.
My dad's 225 70 duster runs low 13s on a 75 shot of juice. He's hoping to drop a second or more by installing a std trans and a 125 shot. No weight stripping either. Also, our dragstrip is appx 1700ft above sea level.
Hello Uncle T! Fellow viewer here in Middle Tennessee. I love the series. You have taught me really good old school information for when I get my first project car...Thank you!
this video makes me want to go out and find a 68 nova with a 250 six in it like I had in high school and build it. want a 4 speed this time.
@Kurt Zimmerman My dads first car was a 69 Camaro with the 250 six and 3 speed manual. It had an Offenhauser aluminum intake with a progressive linkage two barrel carb, split header that went back into single exhaust with a glasspack, a bigger clutch and Bellhousing from another stock GM application and a 4.10 limited slip rear. The car would hook up and launch harder than anything my dad had encountered on the street. He even outran a big block 4 speed Nova with it once because the guy was having so much traction problems. That Nova was one of the hot cars in our area at the time too, it humiliated the guy and nearly started a fight fist in the parking lot.
@@Impactjunky sounds like your dad is a cool guy. love all the memories from my youth!
The gasket trick is clever and simple, Tony! Thanks...those of us who aren’t veteran mechanics would waste lots of time figuring that stuff out! 😁
Hi Tony . Try notching both sides of the exhaust port next to the valve guide to get more flow around the stem.
Bolt the head on the bare block to see if you can open the combustion chamber around the valves to the bore size or eye brow the block to suit head to 1/8 inch from the top ring .
Their is a channel that did a build on the gm 4.2 inline 6 . They took 2 & turboed them . However they make it look easy & leave more ? Than answers . We are all glad with your videos you leave us with a heep of answers . Thank you
Keep this type of content up Tony you and Kathy are doing a bang up job!
Anyone who does their own port and polish job is a bad ass! Especially on Iron heads. I did a set of big block Chevy cast iron heads, then I hand lapped the valves in (Did not know the drill trick yet). Talk about dirty and time consuming. But at the end I had a great feeling of accomplishment, especially when I finally got to light the Big Block off and take her for her first test drive. Doing my own heads gave me a greater appreciation for the guys who do it for a living and also showed me why a port job is so expensive.
Great update man and again thank you Oscar
Only judgement is this was another excellent video showing what can be done with some time and a bit of skill.
I use the Mondello bowl cut percentages: 89-90% Intake valve diameter & 86-87% Exhaust valve diameter. Set the bowl cut percentages and blend without digging behind the guide.
Chevy small block heads with 1.94" intakes were machined to fit the 2.02 valves, if you didn't relieve the intake side of the combustion chamber you left a lot of power on the table. If you never tried porting, deburr exterior cast areas and get the feel and learn to avoid kick back and grinder shimmy. Then venture to the critical unforgiving areas like the valve seats when you have confidence.
Yes!!!
As always awsome video . Great for those just starting out . Im on a poor mans buget but was able to buy some good quality die grinder bits for cast iron ect. I gasket matched all ports: intake, head , and exhaust manifold .cleaned up the bowels and ports polished the valves. Valves had been back cut . I also put a larger inner diameter exhaust manifold pipe flange i bought from O'reallys and put on 2-1/2 inch pipe single exhaust system with a flow tech afterburner muffler. flows really well and doesn't burn out the pipe flange gasket anymore .i noticed a big different in power and torque and fuel efficiency .
Absolutely loving following the slant 6 build! Thank you for your hard work!
Cool video. Thank you for sharing your knowledge. I hope your hand heals quickly
Never thought of port matching using a gasket and spray paint. Great idea!
Love the description of your porting skills Tony...
I have a disassembled lower portion of a slant six tied into 68 barracuda sitting under budget tarp, and another slant six from eBay sitting on an engine stand for rebuild. I am going to rebuild the one on the stand, mostly tore down. The porting fine element of curiosity for place to begin. It looks kind of simple, the idea had circulated in other conversations on VW air-cooled I had noticed other places. Mopar 💪
Great stuff, Your knowledge doesnt stop to impress
Thanks to Oscar for helping to fund the Slant 6 Project your the man!!! I bet that porting is a pain in the ass I know when I did my V8 heads it seemed to take forever
This was an awesome video. Thanks for sharing your knowledge. Looking forward to more. See ya tonight!
Apparently the bottom of a slant six head looks like six drunk emoji faces.
Seriously, I was thinking the same thing.
They call us The Slant Six
🤣😂🤣😂
I read these comments and see all the avice given and it amazes me we have a guy showing how to back yard mechanic on a budget and better yet wrenched on top fuel cars so this guy knows how to generate the maximum horsepower out of an engine without breaking the bank and taking out a second loan on your house. Geez what part of building on a budget that anyone can do is not understood.
As a medical professional I must say that your burned hand looks pretty good, all things considered. Good thing you have thick skin. Did we learn anything about hot steel? Seriously though, it looks good. Expect my bill on a 30 day net.
The first car I drove was a 61 valiant. Three on the floor,dead slow,but,hey,I was driving! Love your channel,wish Chrysler had contracted with cosworth to build a proper cross flow head and intake manifold setup. The slant could have had a future.....
Have you ever used fine brass screen material at the gasket on the intake ports for greater atomization? I did with what I believe was great results, no formal test. I did not go for horsepower but rather greater economy. Horsepower was the plus side of the build. It was a 69 Valiant 4 door. Not pretty but was reliable until I let a shop work on it. At that point I couldn’t afford to fix it. It looks like your burn is healing well.
I'm a simple man. I see slant six, I click like.
I Love it , Thank you I'm listening , and would like to see you complete the Build , your the Best from Joey in Honolulu, Hawaii 😎
Thank you Oscar!
Always learn something new with Uncle Tony I would have never thought the idea with the gasket
I was taught to match up the gasket to the bolt holes and then take a paint marker and dab around the ports to show what material needs to come off but I never thought of spray paint! Always learning more cool stuff
smooth port work,uncle tony!!
Sounds good to me on the intake port head port slightly bigger than the intake manafold so there's no interference when the fule mixture leaves the intake manafold!!
Point a tiny flash light into the port and the bowls will show up very well from the chamber side.
Again I learned something new. Love this guy.
You can grind out the humps in the bowls and between the valves.
I sent you some pics of slant 6 stuff I recently did on Instagram. Those things are thicker than they look.
Just clean 'em up, give good 3 angle valve job, and clean up shrouding.....it will really help low-end torque as it boosts early flow at low lift. Really good point on the difference between intake/exhaust porting. Smooth intakes = "puddling" of the fuel.
With the bigger valves you can get rid of a lot of the under cutting and shrouding of the port.
G'day Uncle Tony. the head is comming along nicely. the burn on your hand looks nasty. 👍
I no longer feel like a lesser being just because I tend to leave things a bit coarse, when porting. I know you really want to polish the exhaust ports, but I always seem to run out of sand paper rolls or patience or both. Welcome to rehab, Tony.
Valuable info, thanks for sharing Tony!!
Oh man that burn man hope your feeling better
theres a lot you can do depending on just how daily drivable you want to keep that trusty old six popper id smooth and open the oil return holes and smooth out the spark plug reliefs a little as well they can get tricky so i wouldnt go too far with them then have the head planed 010 to 020 for a slight bump in compression
It's a strip only car, and the head has already been decked .100
Porting cylinder heads is the most fun I've NEVER had.
I've done a fair amount of it and enjoyed the work. A big help is to hook a vacuum up to the opposite side you're working on to really cut down on the mess. getting comfortable is also important as is hearing protection.
superrodder2002 Aluminum is fun. Cast iron is hell.
Also using a electric grinder is much easier then the air compressor constantly running.
Tech Tip: Dremels don’t last that long porting iron heads either, burned a few up that way lol. Also sandpaper rolls are cost effective to port heads, carbide cutters get expensive and make a lot of noise.
@@South_0f_Heaven_ Our shop had a 1/4 HP Foredom cable porting tool with a variable speed pedal, it worked very well. I've also worked with air and electric die grinders. Porting is tricky work, to know what you're doing you need a flow bench and how to use it.
There's a couple good books who's work still stands, Phil irving's "tuning for speed" and "tuning secrets of Smokey Yunick". Smokey's book really covers his head work and findings well, and how to build engines that will last races and win.
Oldbmwr100rs
Yup, the best way to do it these days is send the head out to get CNC ported. Don’t have to worry about hitting the water jackets or making it worse either. People often make the mistake of polishing the intakes which is always a bad idea as the fuel will puddle.
Aluminum heads are much easier to port and don’t take three times the effort of doing cast heads.
Still stand by using the sandpaper rolls, much more control and you won’t destroy anything if you skip like what happens with a carbide tool. Plus they don’t jump around all over the place either.
But yeah, porting is a art and so much knowledge has been lost over the years. These days it’s cheaper and cost effective to just buy aftermarket heads as they are superior to almost any older cylinder heads right out of the box.
Oh man, that joke about porting skills, this is one of many reasons I love this channel!!! Hahahahahaha
joke?
@@UncleTonysGarage Trust me, I have seen MUCH worse porting jobs in person. I saw a Honda head that was completely ruined because the guy had buzzed the valve guides down in the ports.... When the fool put the head on his engine, it burned a lot of oil, and as soon as he spun the engine up to 8,000RPM it went * pop * because the valves bent. What you have done is far from bad :) Pretty? No... functional? Yes :)
I just fricken love your vids man!
Oh, how I DON'T miss porting cast iron heads! Did any of you ever weld them up with brass rods? Talk about work!!! But man, you could make some power if you were willing and able to do the work.
Tony, have you ever been out to the Bonneville Salt Flats for speed week? I was watching some salt flats video and i thought about just how freaking awesome a video series a car build and then the whole Speed Week experience would be. The rule book gives plenty of instruction on building to pass tech. The very spirit of Bonneville is steeped in home built creations. They prefer mild steel roll cages with gusseting, MIG welded. SCTA and all the racers have a great time good for lifetime memories. If you pick the project car and engine choice wisely (this is what the rules book is good for) you may find a record that looks soft. Something perhaps around 180-220 cu. in. perhaps? Then see what kind of results you could achieve with a slant 6 either blown or unblown. Even if you never get anywhere near a record it would still get tons of views. "Blown" means any method of boosting from helix to centrifugal blower to turbo. You can build it to run on fuel and a nitrous system puts a car in a fuel class. Dry lakes and salt flats are under the aegis of sanctioning bodies that remember where they came from. This is why they actually prefer to see mild steel cages in cars. There is a potential problem i could see developing though. Uncle Tony gets hooked on land speed racing and installments continue regularly the rest of your active adult life.
Thanks Tony!👍🏼😎
That burn sure looks rough, but also looks like it's healing ok. My little motorcycle header pipe burn scabbed but was not bigger than the size of a nickel. I think I fared a little better on that.
I remember all the boys on the 1980s had to have the heads “ported and polished” and polished meant like a mirror.....
Hours and hours of wet and dry sanding by hand
Then they worked out it’s no point doing the polish on the exhaust side because the carbon still sticks anyway and stuffs up the polish.... and on the intake side they worked out a mirror polish was not the best for flow and fuel atomisation what was better was a mild coarse finish but still ported....
Something about gasses flowing better with multiple small ‘eddys’ rather than in a ‘laminar’ fashion.... and the fuel atomisation was a bonus.....!
I wonder if that’s still the case?
I gotta say on the duster you found all the key tells it was a hodgepodge. While it still has value and I'd say half of them around now are built from several cars. On that one there was too many discrepancy parts. Your were being gracious at 8 grand. You interested in a 81 Diplomat Cop car punched out worked over 440? Still marked with equipment. A buddy of mine might want to sell. Great vids. Thanks for sharing.
Black hoodie looks nice buying one after work tomorrow... Fast 4 doors give out the best gap 💪
If you had a Flow bench you would see that the Ari flows from the Roof to the Short turn on the intake and from the short turn to the roof on the Ex. Air acts just like electricy , it will find the path of least resistance . You can find this by using a plastic cylinder the size as your bore and a Vacuum cleaner and a piece of string, Just put the valve at say .400 lift and suck air from the bottom of the cylinder, you will be amazed at what you find. And when you do this you will see how important the Short Turn radius really is. This is one reason the Quench pad is so important, which this head has no quench, a bad thing.
Those ports actually look pretty straight. How much compression to you pick up from .2 decking?
Should end up right about 10.5
I wish I knew you in the middle 90 s found a very early Truck slant called The Yellow block more nickel in the block did not use the head do not like the spark plug tubes prone to leak so i used the oriignal head from the car i was building 1978 Dodge Aspen Wiseco supplied the 100 over pistons local shop near me did a static dynamic balance pistons rods crank flywheel I took .125 off. Line bore the block . for the mains deck the block ,125 Cam Clifford 290 dur 540 550 lift 3/8 molly push rods....then head time...did what you are doing ,100 off the head i used chevy 305 valves 188 in 150 ext....dont have on my...lol bronze guides springs duel set for 600 lift cam so would not have coil bind..... i had 2 different intakes..lol first one i built using the original bolted to the old truck block head cut fab a new plenum put the secondary away from the head used a 650 dp single line had to yse a 3.5 power valve 58 in primary 64 second.....if ya want more info reply love your channel you know your Sheet keep up the good work thanks Glynn fron Arkansas
Thanks for the Vid Uncle "T"!
Love your videos man keep up the good work
been off a couple of weeks, congrats on getting over a 100k subs!!!
Nice job Oscar!
Can you use cast iron welding rod and fill in the undercut on the intake port? The new cast iron rod works well on cast iron. The intake doesn't take a lot of heat so I would consider using it. I wouldn't graze it because brass expands at a different rate than iron and might come loose and enter the engine, and you know what would happen next.
The primary reason that castings are better today is lost foam casting technology. I wonder if the Hemi head from Chrysler Australia fits.
On that back cut of the intake, before i suggest anything, i know flow is everything, but you are dealing with a thumb over the hose type situation. Ever thought of building up epoxy into that back cut? I know it might drop overall flow, but to straighten the flow, it might help it flow better. I've been a believer of smoother flow is better then overall flow. That back cut does the same as the ridge on top of the valves, you talked about in a past vid. I'd think smoother flow would do more than having a killer flow number but at the cost of restrictions
5:40 getting a little friendly with that hole
Man you made me feel better about the cylinder head that I put away a couple years ago for a project for when I need to replace my current head. I know its savable now lol. You talking about engine builder the ebay seller that sells engine parts?
Yup. He's got the oversize valves
I must be needing opiate rehab...The head looks like a bunch of faces looking at me.....
Chris Cole
All I saw were aliens with different expressions.
I scrolled the comments to see if anyone else saw it too.
Did you post that with a "straight face?" ; )
Could ya add some material to the chamber to reduce the undercutting by the valve seat?
other than welding it up $$$$$$$. getting something to stay stuck on would be a problem . cool then hot cycle
Tony how long is it taking per intake/exhaust port to grind/port out?
Roughly 30-45 minutes a bowl
My brother-in-law used to check something with a "flow rate" after he did Porting and polishing!?
Anyone know what im saying?
He said he used air pressure to check the flow rate for when he's polishing, he said you want the same amount of "resistance" or "flow"through each head
@@thecloneguyz - what that means, is that after most of the work was done, each port was checked to see if it's Cubic Feet per Minute flow rate was matched to each previously completed port. If the ports all flow the same amount, then during each intake cycle they will flow the same amount of air and fuel in to the cylinder, so each cylinder will make the same amount of power.
If an engine is perfectly balanced mechanically, and makes the same power from each cylinder, it will idle with nearly zero vibration, and there will be less stresses within the engine as runs, so it will last longer and deliver its performance smoothly.
@@thecloneguyz Sounds like you referring to a flow bench.
Why no short side radius material removal? After picking the brains of a lot of pro racers, I did my own motorcycle. On the motorcycle engine, hemi-head, a LOT of material came out of the bottom of the exhaust port and the power that motor made was nothing short of amazing.
Great video as always! Love these tricks and tips!👌
Great tips On porting
Idea for next discussion the old big bore GMC v6, and I6 engines like the 305 v6,351 v6, 478v6, 503 v6, 503 I6, 701 v12.
Is it possible to fill the undercuts and reshape the intake ports with a high temperature epoxy or solder? I would set that head up on a mill and rough out those exhaust manifold ports a lot quicker then a die grinder.
One shop i worked for did, when he couldn't fill in with weld. Creating a surface for the filler to hold onto is no easy task.
I may actually end up using epoxy on that one intake I pointed out
@False Flag Why I mentioned creating a surface for the filler to hold onto. My old boss in the case of alloy heads (on a motorcycle) would add anything from lumps of weld or run screws into the side of the port and then fill and grind. I honestly felt the same as you, what if it comes off..
@@Oldbmwr100rs I have worked in heavy industry for decades and have found some of the epoxies to be pretty durable. When reinforced with a few screws like you mentioned it should work. I don't know much about the solders, but would like to see some one try.
Naw, your porting is not bad looking at all man. Keep up the god work!
Good job Oscar, Oscar is going to scream!
This head is being prepared for a race engine. At some point, might you comment on which of the modifications you wont NOT recommend if one were building a street engine. I'm thinking longer term reliability??
Utter Butter will help keep that scab from cracking and make it heal faster.
Have you guys seen that rubber hand glove dip?
You keep it warm and you dip your hand into it and within seconds it hardens and it's an instant glove plus it covers all your cuts and you can rip it off and redo it hundreds of times as much as needed
You make me want to tear my 3 wheeler engine all apart once again just to back face the valves.
I felt a great disturbance to the forc,,, I mean to the flow so I better grind more on it!
love the paint trick
Might be a stupid questions but does stuff like this push down gas mileage (e.g. uses more fuel then if left the way it is)?
yes, it allows your engine to flow more air/fuel mixture when you open the throttle. If you want better mileage, put a brick under the gas pedal so that you can't go to wot.
What did you do to your hand? Looks like it hurt like hell.
Tony, one of those $25 Chinese "endoscopes" would a great borescope for closeups in cylinders heads & such.
Are newer engines machined cleaner? Or have the new kids just forgotten how to cc, port, and polish cylinders?
New stuff all comes pretty much pre-ported
I've never worked on the sixes...only small block Dodge...had a set of 340 heads.....I changed the value angles from 45 and 46.... To 15 and 30..... Helped me with the high compression.....ended up with 240 per cylinder.....mite help you?