Couple things. I was a carpenter for 30+ years. My solution is always wood, for my track spacing I cut a wood “Story Stick” that I use to keep my 2” spacing. I cut several lengths so I use them to lay straight tangents on 2” centers. 2nd, in my career I never had good luck with liquid nails.I totally agree with your reasons for using it, I just have a bias against it. Im probably wrong. In any case I use white glue. Plain white glue. It’s got a long working time so I can wiggle track where I want it. Ballasting sometimes causes it to listen up so I often have to pin the track while ballasting too. 3rd I make all my marks with a “Ultra Fine Point” sharpie. It’s just a finer line. No big deal. For me I THINK I can get my cuts more accurate. Probably just a perception as opposed to fact. Still watching. Keep up the good work.
This video is, as all yours on the subject are, a go-to standby for layout building. Thank you for it, and your consistent excellence and dependability. I do not think of doing any work on my layout without checking to see if you've done a video on the subject at hand, and watching it first to prepare. That said, I have an unusual request. I'd love to see you make a video that begins with a mistake intentionally made, so we can learn from how you recover from it. By now, the people who make Liquid Nails for Projects owe you a royalty, or at least a few free tubes, for the instructive and efficient use you make of that product. You ALWAYS carefully remind us not to use it beneath certain areas on our trackwork because doing so can gum up certain things that must not be gummed up. Most of the time we listen to your advice. I am, though, among those who have occasionally spread the glue where it definitely shouldn't be. I don't know whether you count yourself among our ranks. Whether you do or not, it would be interesting, and now and then a lifesaver, to see how you might recover from spreading too much glue, or any in the wrong place. Based on your record of accomplishment and ingenuity, I imagine any fixes you've come up with would help the rest of us avoid making an even bigger mess of the things we just screwed up! Thanks again, and all best wishes!
That's not a great video to teach new comers to the hobby. you want them to waste their money destroying their expensive turnouts by modifying them, and gluing them down because they will inevitably want to change the track after a while. New comers need to keep it simple and be able to change track plans easily. Once they have run their trains for a while and are happy with the design, the track will be glued down when they ballast the track. They also need to understand how easily you can damage a turnout by soldering frog to it, so they don't waste their money again. Our hobby is already getting too expensive. They need to watch dedicated videos designed to show them the what to watch out for and how to avoid mistakes, so they will enjoy the hobby from the beginning
With the plywood under the foam and firmly attached to the frame there is no sag at all. Also on my top section it is basically a 1’ deep shelf sitting on steel brackets. I installed a 1”x2” strip along the front edge to hold the fascia and it greatly strengthens the plywood. On a layout using just foam you may be able to get away with 2” thick foam but I’d never trust it that much myself and it creates other issues with installations since it is so thick.
I showed that in video #258. You basically just take a #17 chisel blade and remove the spikes on the first 1 or 2 ties depending on how long the rail joiners are. Then using the chisel blade scoop out a bit of the tie from under the rail so the joiner has room to slide in.
Larry good tips for everyone hear. I use mainly Atlas turnouts have a couple of peco turnouts During your video I noticed one thing you do not remove any ties from you track pieces so do you just snip off a couple of the spikes so the rail joiner can slide back? I use that method if I need to replace a section of track did not think about that fr installing new track. I always go back and slide in some ties where there might be a large gap of no ties. I just installed 4 more turnouts on my laytout and I am waiting for my DCC Concepts Cobalt IP machines they are on back order .
I do undercut the ties using a chisel knife blade to provide room for rail joiners, but usually don’t do that on turnouts since it can weaken them at the point end. In cases where I remove ties from the end of sections of flex track I will insert old ties before ballasting. I have a container full of old ties removed from track sections reserved for just that purpose. I got an email from DCCconcepts saying that the iP Digitals are expected in stock soon.
Hi Larry, love your channel. I cannot tell you how often I come to it to pick up on all of your tips and how to’s. I have a question and I know you have used similar products. My question is the following. I have a crossover on my HO layout that is using two cobalt IP digital switch machines, how do I go about linking them both together to switch points while using one or possibly 2 momentary push button or buttons. Thank you
Just give them both the same address and that way they will both operate at the same time. If you are just using a pushbutton switch then I suggest wiring them both to the same pishbutton and they should work that way.
@@TheDCCGuy Thank you for the quick reply. Much appreciated. Yes, I am already using them through my NCE handheld at the same time under the same address, but I also wanted to have the second option of using the push button so I will try wiring them both up To the same one. :)
@@TheDCCGuy well it was very interesting Larry, I attached both turnouts on the crossover to one button and it worked fine but then every 20 to 30 seconds they just kept activating by themselves going on and off. Everything works completely fine when using the handheld and applying the address.
Thank you, Larry, that was a great tutorial on installing crossovers. I am using the new Walthers code 83 track and turnouts and in the beginning plan to switch the turnouts by hand or with a caboose industries ground throw but down the road I may move to a powered switch machine like a tortoise. You showed that the spring may have to be removed to decrease the wear on the turnout and the switch machine. Can it be removed from the top if the track is already laid and if not, have you ever or could you do a test to see if you think the amount of resistance from the spring really would cause damage if it was left intact?
I have removed a couple after installation-got busy and forgot to remove them in advance. Because the plastic cover is not glued in very tightly I was able to insert a #17 knife blade between the ties and pop it off. The spring is also easily popped out too the same way. I suggest you take a photo of this area with your phone so that when the time comes you’ll be able to see exactly what needs to be removed and where it is.
I'm not clear on the need to remove the over-centre spring on a turnout. I havent encountered any ready-made or DIY motor which can't easily overcome the spring and leaving it in place seems to me to do no harm?
I like how you made a single crossover out of two micro-engineering turnouts. I've been eyeing the new Walthers code 83 single crossovers but no one has them in stock, not even Walthers, and there is no information when they'll be available. Will I be able to make a single crossover out of Walthers turnouts? What # turnout should I use? Would it work with a #4 or #5?
I used #6 turnouts for these and have not tried it with any others. I seem to remember a viewer saying it had worked with the Walthers turnouts but can’t say for sure. Walthers gets their track and turnouts in batches from China and then usually ships everything they get out to dealers and distributors immediately so you just have to stockpile what you might need when they get them. The good thing about ME is they are made in Missouri so production is usually continuous unless they run out of rail which they get from China.
I have not seen one yet but I expect they are essentially about the same quality as their turnouts and double crossover which I have reviewed and found to be quite nice.
That should work fine in that location, however there are locations on a turnout where it would not be possible to do that so this shows a way to do the repair.
Since you had already soldered the frog wire and drilled the hole and when installing the turnout, you dropped that yellow wire through the roadbed. Why didn't you do the same with feeders? Instead of waiting till all track is glued down and then have to drill holes and install feeders? And if you have feeders on each section of track, the rail joiners don't have to be soldered. Exception is to solder all rail joiners in the curves. If you don't install feeders on each track, but every other, then you can solder the rail joiners for those. And this way, you can solder those feeders right on the bottom of the rails, making them virtually unseen. And no solder blobs on the sides of the rails.
Ever try to wrestle a 3’ section of flextrack and a couple of feeder wires into position and wiggle those wires through the holes all at the same time? Life is too short to screw around with trying stuff like that! One thing I really lke about the new Walthers turnouts is the solder tabs on the ends of the ties. Makes it so easy to install them.
@@TheDCCGuy Yes I have. And it's easier to solder feeders to the bottom of the rail than trying to solder feeders to the side of the rail. Less chance of melting ties. You simply spread the ties apart enough to solder, then slide the ties back into place. Easy peasy!
Couple things.
I was a carpenter for 30+ years. My solution is always wood, for my track spacing I cut a wood “Story Stick” that I use to keep my 2” spacing. I cut several lengths so I use them to lay straight tangents on 2” centers.
2nd, in my career I never had good luck with liquid nails.I totally agree with your reasons for using it, I just have a bias against it. Im probably wrong. In any case I use white glue. Plain white glue. It’s got a long working time so I can wiggle track where I want it. Ballasting sometimes causes it to listen up so I often have to pin the track while ballasting too.
3rd I make all my marks with a “Ultra Fine Point” sharpie. It’s just a finer line. No big deal. For me I THINK I can get my cuts more accurate. Probably just a perception as opposed to fact. Still watching. Keep up the good work.
This video is, as all yours on the subject are, a go-to standby for layout building. Thank you for it, and your consistent excellence and dependability. I do not think of doing any work on my layout without checking to see if you've done a video on the subject at hand, and watching it first to prepare.
That said, I have an unusual request. I'd love to see you make a video that begins with a mistake intentionally made, so we can learn from how you recover from it. By now, the people who make Liquid Nails for Projects owe you a royalty, or at least a few free tubes, for the instructive and efficient use you make of that product. You ALWAYS carefully remind us not to use it beneath certain areas on our trackwork because doing so can gum up certain things that must not be gummed up.
Most of the time we listen to your advice.
I am, though, among those who have occasionally spread the glue where it definitely shouldn't be. I don't know whether you count yourself among our ranks. Whether you do or not, it would be interesting, and now and then a lifesaver, to see how you might recover from spreading too much glue, or any in the wrong place. Based on your record of accomplishment and ingenuity, I imagine any fixes you've come up with would help the rest of us avoid making an even bigger mess of the things we just screwed up!
Thanks again, and all best wishes!
Very good video, dispell need for hand built switches. Video reaches out to new model railroaders.
That's not a great video to teach new comers to the hobby. you want them to waste their money destroying their expensive turnouts by modifying them, and gluing them down because they will inevitably want to change the track after a while. New comers need to keep it simple and be able to change track plans easily. Once they have run their trains for a while and are happy with the design, the track will be glued down when they ballast the track. They also need to understand how easily you can damage a turnout by soldering frog to it, so they don't waste their money again. Our hobby is already getting too expensive. They need to watch dedicated videos designed to show them the what to watch out for and how to avoid mistakes, so they will enjoy the hobby from the beginning
Istalling switch tracks in the layout.
Istalled a Peco insulfrog switch in my layout , code 80, #8.
Good job in the layout.
So you have Plywood as the base. Half inch foam glued to that. Then the cork roadbed on top of that, to support your track?
And your question is what?
I'm in n scale. Foam, a lone is not working for me. But it looks like you got it to work for you. With plywood under the foam.
With the plywood under the foam and firmly attached to the frame there is no sag at all. Also on my top section it is basically a 1’ deep shelf sitting on steel brackets. I installed a 1”x2” strip along the front edge to hold the fascia and it greatly strengthens the plywood. On a layout using just foam you may be able to get away with 2” thick foam but I’d never trust it that much myself and it creates other issues with installations since it is so thick.
Dear Larry, on to the ‘golden spike!’
Would love to see how you get the rail joiners on without removing any ties.
I showed that in video #258. You basically just take a #17 chisel blade and remove the spikes on the first 1 or 2 ties depending on how long the rail joiners are. Then using the chisel blade scoop out a bit of the tie from under the rail so the joiner has room to slide in.
Thanks..will watch.@@TheDCCGuy
Good tutorial Larry. Thanks.
Thank you for sharing.👍
hello larry its is randy and i like yours video is cool thanks larry friends randy
Larry good tips for everyone hear. I use mainly Atlas turnouts have a couple of peco turnouts During your video I noticed one thing you do not remove any ties from you track pieces so do you just snip off a couple of the spikes so the rail joiner can slide back? I use that method if I need to replace a section of track did not think about that fr installing new track. I always go back and slide in some ties where there might be a large gap of no ties. I just installed 4 more turnouts on my laytout and I am waiting for my DCC Concepts Cobalt IP machines they are on back order .
I do undercut the ties using a chisel knife blade to provide room for rail joiners, but usually don’t do that on turnouts since it can weaken them at the point end. In cases where I remove ties from the end of sections of flex track I will insert old ties before ballasting. I have a container full of old ties removed from track sections reserved for just that purpose. I got an email from DCCconcepts saying that the iP Digitals are expected in stock soon.
Hi Larry, love your channel. I cannot tell you how often I come to it to pick up on all of your tips and how to’s. I have a question and I know you have used similar products. My question is the following. I have a crossover on my HO layout that is using two cobalt IP digital switch machines, how do I go about linking them both together to switch points while using one or possibly 2 momentary push button or buttons. Thank you
Just give them both the same address and that way they will both operate at the same time. If you are just using a pushbutton switch then I suggest wiring them both to the same pishbutton and they should work that way.
@@TheDCCGuy Thank you for the quick reply. Much appreciated. Yes, I am already using them through my NCE handheld at the same time under the same address, but I also wanted to have the second option of using the push button so I will try wiring them both up To the same one. :)
@@TheDCCGuy well it was very interesting Larry, I attached both turnouts on the crossover to one button and it worked fine but then every 20 to 30 seconds they just kept activating by themselves going on and off. Everything works completely fine when using the handheld and applying the address.
Must be an interaction between the electronics of the built-in accessory decoders. I suggest you email m.bryan@dccconcepts.com and see what he says.
@@TheDCCGuy thank you.
Thank you, Larry, that was a great tutorial on installing crossovers. I am using the new Walthers code 83 track and turnouts and in the beginning plan to switch the turnouts by hand or with a caboose industries ground throw but down the road I may move to a powered switch machine like a tortoise. You showed that the spring may have to be removed to decrease the wear on the turnout and the switch machine. Can it be removed from the top if the track is already laid and if not, have you ever or could you do a test to see if you think the amount of resistance from the spring really would cause damage if it was left intact?
I have removed a couple after installation-got busy and forgot to remove them in advance. Because the plastic cover is not glued in very tightly I was able to insert a #17 knife blade between the ties and pop it off. The spring is also easily popped out too the same way. I suggest you take a photo of this area with your phone so that when the time comes you’ll be able to see exactly what needs to be removed and where it is.
I'm not clear on the need to remove the over-centre spring on a turnout. I havent encountered any ready-made or DIY motor which can't easily overcome the spring and leaving it in place seems to me to do no harm?
While the switch machine may function, the increased pressure can eventually lead to failure of the switch machine or the points.
I like how you made a single crossover out of two micro-engineering turnouts. I've been eyeing the new Walthers code 83 single crossovers but no one has them in stock, not even Walthers, and there is no information when they'll be available. Will I be able to make a single crossover out of Walthers turnouts? What # turnout should I use? Would it work with a #4 or #5?
I used #6 turnouts for these and have not tried it with any others. I seem to remember a viewer saying it had worked with the Walthers turnouts but can’t say for sure. Walthers gets their track and turnouts in batches from China and then usually ships everything they get out to dealers and distributors immediately so you just have to stockpile what you might need when they get them. The good thing about ME is they are made in Missouri so production is usually continuous unless they run out of rail which they get from China.
Larry what do you think of the new Walthers crossover code 83, I am planning to use them on my new layout
I have not seen one yet but I expect they are essentially about the same quality as their turnouts and double crossover which I have reviewed and found to be quite nice.
Larry you did a great job making a crossover, I got the DCC concepts dowel pins installed, two lift outs
Why not use the ties that you removed, to repair the switch? Whouldnt that be easier and less likly to be out of gage.
That should work fine in that location, however there are locations on a turnout where it would not be possible to do that so this shows a way to do the repair.
Since you had already soldered the frog wire and drilled the hole and when installing the turnout, you dropped that yellow wire through the roadbed. Why didn't you do the same with feeders? Instead of waiting till all track is glued down and then have to drill holes and install feeders? And if you have feeders on each section of track, the rail joiners don't have to be soldered. Exception is to solder all rail joiners in the curves. If you don't install feeders on each track, but every other, then you can solder the rail joiners for those. And this way, you can solder those feeders right on the bottom of the rails, making them virtually unseen. And no solder blobs on the sides of the rails.
Ever try to wrestle a 3’ section of flextrack and a couple of feeder wires into position and wiggle those wires through the holes all at the same time? Life is too short to screw around with trying stuff like that! One thing I really lke about the new Walthers turnouts is the solder tabs on the ends of the ties. Makes it so easy to install them.
@@TheDCCGuy Yes I have. And it's easier to solder feeders to the bottom of the rail than trying to solder feeders to the side of the rail. Less chance of melting ties. You simply spread the ties apart enough to solder, then slide the ties back into place. Easy peasy!
Cool
👍