Thanks for the video, it was very informative and well done. I had some replacement hardware on hand for a while now, and finally started noticing some squealing from one of the brakes... so it was time to change the stock rotors/brakes out on my '14... I replaced them with dimpled/slotted black iron rotors and ceramic pads. 42k miles on it, and every rotor was completely stuck on, had to use the 'ol method of threading a nut/bolt through the caliper bracket to apply pressure from the inside of the car to pop 'er off... All of the hammering/malleting in the world sure as hell wasn't getting the job done, wasn't budging... I RUINED (knowing I wouldn't need 'em) those rear stock rotors trying to get them off, before I tried the aforementioned method. Other than the damage I did trying to get them off, they were still in pretty good shape, not that rotors wear all that much. All of the brake pads looked surprisingly good too.. except for ONE. One was completely worn to nothing (the one squealing obviously)... Kind of odd, I'm afraid I may need a new caliper for that wheel. I blame the "Assembled in Mexico" stamps on the car for the rusted on rotors and odd wear pattern on a brand new car with only 40k miles. Another note, wear a mask.. I've been coughing up and blowing black crap from my sinuses for hours.
Don't forget to pump up the brakes first before you drive.Since you pushed the pistons all the way back. It'll take 4 or 5 pumps to move them out to press on the pads themselves.
Thanks Jack. I'm all done with my brakes. The 344 rotors with new calipers will fit stock Dodge 18" rims, I test fitted them that are still in my garage. I have after market 18' rims that were just a little tight. I didn't want to add spaces so I went with all four 320 vented / drilled and slotted all new calipers (red) and added braded brake lines. Very happy with the upgrade, much nicer than stock. I have the 344mm set-up and may upgrade the fronts at a later date. When I can afford all new 20' rims and tires! Michael J
I'm thinking on replacing my pads because of some squealing noise that never goes away but I thought because of being a new car It had some sort of sensors but it I guess dodge doesn't want go through all that headache thank you very much for your video
john-paul Mifsud Process is exactly the same, only difference is that the front calipers and brake pads are larger than the rear. So when you purchase pads you will want to make sure you get the right size. The front rotors will also be a bit larger in diameter as well.
Carsn Guns thank you so much. and again thank you for taking time to make the video, it is great instructions and really giving me the confidence to try this on my own. I always avoided doing brakes and suspension, but now its time to give it a go.
I changing my brakes on 2012 challenger sxt. All 4 rotors are currently 12.5 in (320mm) I'm looking at changing out the front rotors to 13.5 in (344mm) will this fit with my 18 in rims?
+Michael Jennings That is a very good question, one I'm afraid I'm not qualified to answer. I would recommend taking some measurements inside the rim of your tires to see if it would allow for a large rotor. I'm not sure why you would want/need to change out the rotors though.
+Carsn Guns (CarsNGuns09) Thanks for your response. I'm changing the entire brake system. All new rotors vented/slotted/and drilled. , All new red powder coated calipers, performance pads and new braided brake lines. I ordered the kit and kept asking for rotor diameter and number of pistons on front calipers. No answers! I was expecting 320mm all around but I've received them today with 344mm fronts. ( It says these should fit.) I'm changing out the backs with vented instead of solid rotors which requires a new caliper (wider). Looking at the front rim space it looks close but I think it may work. I definitely have room for the rotors just not sure with the caliper on. I guess I'll pull a front wheel and test fit it. Thanks Michael J.
+Michael Jennings They will ones you change the front calipers as well. I know several guys who did the job. The new calipers and rotors fit in. That what Chrysler puts in SXT Plus models. Actually there is no need to change rear calipers, only the brackets.
Pretty much the same. Aside from that, changing out break rotors hasn't changed at all. It's literally just pulling out two bolts behind the caliper (make sure to tie the break line as shown), then just popping that bad boy off.
If you don't use a C-clamp you will need to use a caliper press tool. When you replace brake pads the new ones have a thicker pad than the old worn ones so the calipers are too tight and you won't be able to get them back over the rotor unless you decompress the calipers.
There always has to be one negative comment. Sorry. There is NEVER any need to use an adjustable wrench on an automobile! Buy a cheap set of wrenches for your backup. Never an adjustable wrench! I do admire your enthusiasm for cleanliness on parts and precautions taken for future maintenance. However, as I was a young and tough guy once, my old dry cracked hands and fingers appreciate a sturdy set of mechanics gloves. Some neoprene would be advised for any chemical or lubricant handling as well. Your hands will thank you for it years from now. ;)
Great video, straightforward and nice explanation. Thank You!
great video. this should help a bunch. thanks for uploading!
Thanks for the video, it was very informative and well done. I had some replacement hardware on hand for a while now, and finally started noticing some squealing from one of the brakes... so it was time to change the stock rotors/brakes out on my '14... I replaced them with dimpled/slotted black iron rotors and ceramic pads.
42k miles on it, and every rotor was completely stuck on, had to use the 'ol method of threading a nut/bolt through the caliper bracket to apply pressure from the inside of the car to pop 'er off... All of the hammering/malleting in the world sure as hell wasn't getting the job done, wasn't budging... I RUINED (knowing I wouldn't need 'em) those rear stock rotors trying to get them off, before I tried the aforementioned method. Other than the damage I did trying to get them off, they were still in pretty good shape, not that rotors wear all that much. All of the brake pads looked surprisingly good too.. except for ONE. One was completely worn to nothing (the one squealing obviously)... Kind of odd, I'm afraid I may need a new caliper for that wheel. I blame the "Assembled in Mexico" stamps on the car for the rusted on rotors and odd wear pattern on a brand new car with only 40k miles.
Another note, wear a mask.. I've been coughing up and blowing black crap from my sinuses for hours.
Don't forget to pump up the brakes first before you drive.Since you pushed the pistons all the way back. It'll take 4 or 5 pumps to move them out to press on the pads themselves.
Great video, really breaks it down and gives good habits to follow.
great video..changing my brakes this weekend.thanks alot
Thanks Jack. I'm all done with my brakes. The 344 rotors with new calipers will fit stock Dodge 18" rims, I test fitted them that are still in my garage. I have after market 18' rims that were just a little tight. I didn't want to add spaces so I went with all four 320 vented / drilled and slotted all new calipers (red) and added braded brake lines. Very happy with the upgrade, much nicer than stock. I have the 344mm set-up and may upgrade the fronts at a later date. When I can afford all new 20' rims and tires! Michael J
Thanks bro this will help me out alot,great video......
I'm thinking on replacing my pads because of some squealing noise that never goes away but I thought because of being a new car It had some sort of sensors but it I guess dodge doesn't want go through all that headache thank you very much for your video
thanks for the video, I will be doing 09 challenger RT soon, any difference doing the fronts compared to the rear
john-paul Mifsud Process is exactly the same, only difference is that the front calipers and brake pads are larger than the rear. So when you purchase pads you will want to make sure you get the right size. The front rotors will also be a bit larger in diameter as well.
Carsn Guns thank you so much. and again thank you for taking time to make the video, it is great instructions and really giving me the confidence to try this on my own. I always avoided doing brakes and suspension, but now its time to give it a go.
Thanks for this very detailed video.
good video. very detailed instructions. Would be nice if you could upload a HD version.
I changing my brakes on 2012 challenger sxt. All 4 rotors are currently 12.5 in (320mm) I'm looking at changing out the front rotors to 13.5 in (344mm) will this fit with my 18 in rims?
+Michael Jennings That is a very good question, one I'm afraid I'm not qualified to answer. I would recommend taking some measurements inside the rim of your tires to see if it would allow for a large rotor. I'm not sure why you would want/need to change out the rotors though.
+Carsn Guns (CarsNGuns09) Thanks for your response. I'm changing the entire brake system. All new rotors vented/slotted/and drilled. , All new red powder coated calipers, performance pads and new braided brake lines. I ordered the kit and kept asking for rotor diameter and number of pistons on front calipers. No answers! I was expecting 320mm all around but I've received them today with 344mm fronts. ( It says these should fit.) I'm changing out the backs with vented instead of solid rotors which requires a new caliper (wider). Looking at the front rim space it looks close but I think it may work. I definitely have room for the rotors just not sure with the caliper on. I guess I'll pull a front wheel and test fit it.
Thanks Michael J.
+Michael Jennings
They will ones you change the front calipers as well. I know several guys who did the job. The new calipers and rotors fit in. That what Chrysler puts in SXT Plus models.
Actually there is no need to change rear calipers, only the brackets.
Do you know what's different for a 2014? or is pretty much the same?
Pretty much the same. Aside from that, changing out break rotors hasn't changed at all. It's literally just pulling out two bolts behind the caliper (make sure to tie the break line as shown), then just popping that bad boy off.
Well done, my friend. I'm ready to go.
do you not have to compress the brake cylinder on the caliper? I thought that was the next step after you remove the caliper from the brake pads.
Thanks! Hope it helped!
hmmm... is a c-clamp not necessary? some videos show people having to clamp the caliper housing again before butting it back over the new pads
If you don't use a C-clamp you will need to use a caliper press tool. When you replace brake pads the new ones have a thicker pad than the old worn ones so the calipers are too tight and you won't be able to get them back over the rotor unless you decompress the calipers.
Awesome, thanks!
what if i find the break pad unevenly consumed.
How to avoid this kind of problem during changing to new pad ?
great video!!! thanks
Thanks. Good video.
good video, thanks
Anyone know the torque specs for the front and rear caliper mounting bolts?
44 lbs sqinch
Do you have to bleed the brakes?
Where you got your Rotors from?
Summitracing.com
There always has to be one negative comment. Sorry. There is NEVER any need to use an adjustable wrench on an automobile! Buy a cheap set of wrenches for your backup. Never an adjustable wrench! I do admire your enthusiasm for cleanliness on parts and precautions taken for future maintenance. However, as I was a young and tough guy once, my old dry cracked hands and fingers appreciate a sturdy set of mechanics gloves. Some neoprene would be advised for any chemical or lubricant handling as well. Your hands will thank you for it years from now. ;)
+Marvin DeJaynes
Generally it is right. It might work in some cases, but if it doesn't there we have some trouble )
is there anything that needs to be done to the emergency brake
is there any need to bleed the brake lines at all? i have seen a couple of videos where they bleed the brake lines.
Only thing you forgot to mention is how to seat them after they are done. 5x heavy braking at around 50km/h, then 5x heavy braking at around 25km/h.