You two could have a comedy show. I love the back and forth of you two in the shop. Reminds me of a time years ago when I worked with a crew of machinists in an automotive machine shop, that built engines from farm trucks to funny cars, dirt track rigs. street rods, and tractors. Thanks for the memories.
I loved the little door on the GM distributer caps. Hook up your dwell meter, start'r up, raise the little door, insert your allen wrench, set your dwell to the perfect reading. Done in a coupl'a minutes.
Great video with you and carl. Trust this 66 yr old. You teach and explain things well. Been a mech. Body man and hotrodder all my life and dont claim to know anything but willing to help out. Sorry late on the comments but never miss a video.
Brent. You are correct !! The door yes dwell access!!! Also get a handheld vaccumn gun couple sqeezes while hooked up to module would confirm that itz working😘😁👍👍🤠
Dwell is the number of degrees the point are CLOSED. Uniset points are usually preset, you install them and then start the engine. To use a dwell meter you you hook it the distributor side of the coil (usually the negative side) and ground. Your dwell reading is usually on a small block Chevy is 28-32 degrees. I always tried to get it at 30 running. That’s why the distributor cap has the door in it is so you can adjust the points running. You should your multimeters because some of them have a dwell meter function built in to them. Always set your dwell first because for every degree of dwell change, you change timing 2 degrees.
The local hardware store in our town had a huge sign like that. When they went out of business someone bought the sign for $10,000 and sold it on Mecum Auction for $37,400.00!
You connect the dwell meter + ti the - side of the coil and the other to ground and set the points to 30 on the meter with the motor running and you're done.
I always set points with a dwell meter. As the center “cam” wears out your end gap setting will change. Get the dwell setting to 30 and run it. Love the channel, both of the channels.
You and Karl are like ☯ you compliment each so well. You know the funny thing is you guys probably hooked up because of the old tube here. It was nice to see Esther pop in. I feel like Buddy is like me in his older age, he looked a lot more chipper without the cold of winter. It always seems like Pablo is smiling when you go for a boot. I want to thank you all for the great content and I'll catch you on the next one..later!!
Usually, if a Pertronix unit fails, you lose spark entirely. And yes, if you are going to run points, you need a dwell meter. Hook up the dwell meter, then use the Allen wrench to adjust the point gap to set the dwell to spec. We used to do that all the time….
When you two guys get together fun happens ...I love how Buddy gravitates towards Karl the whole time...Buddy is generally the shy dog compared to Pablo...
I would like to see all your cars out lined up. I really like the t and the roadster. I like how there just together and drive. Not some finished full paint cars
🗿💨them uni-pounts was bad right outta the box ,at times. Only 1974 GM used em but it was easier for the diy er to loosen two bolts instead of three. Or if someone lost a point mounting bolt , guys would use the uni-points because it required two without a condenser mount screw. Enjoying the collaboration 👍 thanks for sharing ✌️
60 years ago dad taught me, {match book}. Don’t use a feeler gage. The oil on the gauge would get on the points and burn them out faster. Also don’t use a point file, same reason, use new clean emery cloth. Match book always worked.
One thing i see is a ballast resistor, and if that coil is a 12 vote one,(with a intrunel risistor ) you may not need the ballast witch lower you votes more cause a weak fire at the plugs causing a rich mix
I have to run a ballast resistor with my Pertronix. Someone said I didn't need it, disconnected it and ten minutes later poof Put a new one in with the resistor 18 yrs ago, never a problem!😉
Used to have a dwell meter. Those gm widow cap, one piece points and condeser coupled with a dwell meter made a tune up easy. Enjoyed this video Brent.
the plate can get sticky with old grease or other cruft. You might need to clean/grease it. You can use a mighty-vac or other vacuum pump to see if the advance is any good. The dwell meter hook up depends on the meter. If you have an automotive style multi-meter it might have a dwell function but if you get the point gap right the dwell is right. They are 2 different ways of doing the same thing.
You and Karl are such best friends. You two can find funny in anything. Good video. Pablo was looking at the 27 like "who is driving my 27?". I learned about points and setting a dist. right.
Setting the dwell is the most accurate way to set points. The smaller the points gap the bigger the dwell is. I know your viewers are now going to send you dwell meters. 😆Cheers Stew
That waz lots of fun...so nice to have your own parts YARD... GRRAT to c you and Karl out for a spin...keep well 👍🤠 Pablo looked great ride'n along... 🐶
Hey uncle, I've really done the same with reverting back to poins from the upgraded electronic ignition, We have a mr carman locally, which I was the first one to scrap their so called upgrade. Now anywho Ciao Ciao The Des
Thank you both for a superb video , between the two of you anything and everything is possible . I could never get enough of your prize winning knowledge and sparky humor . Till we get together next time , May the best of life be yours , Stuart in Ontario ..
Haven't done one in a long long time but I was thinking .16 for the gap and 30 for the dwell. I guess I remembered about right. Now they just need the little tool to reach around everything when the distributor is in place. I think I have one in my toolbox.
The point gap sets the dwell angle which determines how long the coil has to chrage before firing. Too much gap will shorten the dwell and reduce the charge of the coil. Most all points set at about 0.012"- 0.015" for 4,6 or 8 cylinders-
I still have a dwell gage on my craftsman digital volt meter i used it in the 60’s and 70’s but i still keep it , just in case i ever need it. Great video guys!
For points gap you can use a Canadian dime if need be. When newly minted they are 0.020" thick. Years ago when points were still the standard ignition I had a dome with a hole drilled in it and I kept it on my key chain. A dime will also work on old Harleys as they ran GM point assemblies.
When you put the Allen wrench in the window and hit the points they will change just from the wrench that's why you need a dwell meter I'd give you one I have 2 of them .just readjust the points with the wrench and keep reveing it until it's good like setting the timeing without a light
My 69 Chevy truck had that and I had a box that had timing and dwell you could open the door and set the dwell then you sprayed it with silicone to help water proof it
GM is .019, dwell is 30-35 degrees and yes, the points feed from the negative side of the coil, you can also drop the distributor in the right location and turn the crank by hand until it drops onto the oil pump shaft, and never set the timing with the vacuum advance hooked up
Just about every GM car that uses points is gapped at .016 and 31 degrees of dwell. I CAN here the sign click. Brent you are exactly right. I have that distributor in my '65 Skylark. You can set the dwell by opening the little door and using an Allen key to set the dwell. GM used that distributor until they went to HEI.
Yeah you would hook up the dwell meter on the ignition coil, then open the sliding cover on the distributor cap. Then use a hex driver to adjust the dwell of the points while the engine is running at idle.
Sadly, I've had the issue where the Distributor housing was worn out on my 1970 Nove back in the day. I was 19 years old and did know a lot about it. I would set them, and they would stick it was wallowed out It took an older guy that was watching me struggle to figure it out.
Points all the way! I was figuring .018 on the gap. Point files,i have bought so many and and havent managed to keep a single one. I thought everyone knew about turning dist and moving oil pump shaft to get rotor to line up. Dwell- longer points stay closed the longer the dwell. I have a meter. Rarely use it. They come up on marketplace. Tach/dwell meter. Proper length screw could be holding up the backing plate.
What a great watch guys it has been real good watching your last videos the old points and condenser was my thing lol easy file reset gap life was good again simple thanks for sharing your time together 👍👋🇨🇦
Bret is the talent, Carl is the1st unit camera, the static camera is the 2nd unit camera and Ester is the guest star, doing a cameo? ;-D I've suggested this before, I'd move the sign (20:32) to the wall by the stairs (more storage space). Good luck finding a matchbook? ;-)
In order to set your points by dwell, you need to connect a dwell meter to the engine, start it and adjust the dwell with an Allen wrench or a screwdriver that has an Allen wrench end on it. They used to make a special screwdriver that had a spring made into the shaft that came with the Allen wrench end made just for that purpose. You will watch your meter and as you turn the screw to adjust the points the needle will move showing that the dwell is changing. Sometimes you could adjust the points by gap, but the dwell will not be right, it is always better to adjust them by dwell.
You two could have a comedy show. I love the back and forth of you two in the shop. Reminds me of a time years ago when I worked with a crew of machinists in an automotive machine shop, that built engines from farm trucks to funny cars, dirt track rigs. street rods, and tractors. Thanks for the memories.
It’s always a great time when Karl comes to visit! What a good pal.
Brent it’s great to Karl at your shop !That model t is cool ! I think it needs a haircut. Maybe you and Karl can give it alittle chop
I loved the little door on the GM distributer caps. Hook up your dwell meter, start'r up, raise the little door, insert your allen wrench, set your dwell to the perfect reading. Done in a coupl'a minutes.
Very good one that is another reason why i stuck with the small bock chev ..Well done guys great to have Karl down here
Honestly it's nice to see one that isn't chopped.
Haha to easy
Great video with you and carl. Trust this 66 yr old. You teach and explain things well. Been a mech. Body man and hotrodder all my life and dont claim to know anything but willing to help out. Sorry late on the comments but never miss a video.
Brent. You are correct !! The door yes dwell access!!!
Also get a handheld vaccumn gun couple sqeezes while hooked up to module would confirm that itz working😘😁👍👍🤠
Best thing about Karl is I found Brent through him. I love both channels and the best is both of them together 😊
Dwell is the number of degrees the point are CLOSED. Uniset points are usually preset, you install them and then start the engine. To use a dwell meter you you hook it the distributor side of the coil (usually the negative side) and ground. Your dwell reading is usually on a small block Chevy is 28-32 degrees. I always tried to get it at 30 running. That’s why the distributor cap has the door in it is so you can adjust the points running. You should your multimeters because some of them have a dwell meter function built in to them. Always set your dwell first because for every degree of dwell change, you change timing 2 degrees.
Pertronics like a full 12 volts all the time, found out the hard way so no need for the ballast resister
Troubleshooting! A lot of it is physical learning. Thanks for demonstrating the process!
1927 Jidder Bug. Which is looking real super.
A pair of old school hot rods-love it!!
G'day big fella, sitting in hospital, you're keeping me motivated, thanks mate. Hooroo se ya later 👍
The local hardware store in our town had a huge sign like that. When they went out of business someone bought the sign for $10,000 and sold it on Mecum Auction for $37,400.00!
Love these videos with you and Karl doing stuff together. Informative and a helluva lot of fun. Look forward to more. Be safe and stay well.
What happy video with Brent Ester and Karl. Thanks for sharing good friends hanging out.
Glad to see Buddy making a cameo appearance. Great video.
Better than anything on TV, Awesome watching you two “work” together
I love the learning, especially about a problem you will never see again. Ben there done that. LOL
Minty !
Thank You for sharing your video, and letting us hang out .
Later ...
Those look cool cruising together !!!
You two make it real! Thanks for sharing your video.
Brent.. I love to see you and karl get together….awesome content today..keep up the great work 😊😊
Hi Brent,,first set points at 30-32 dwell then set timing.
I like this video. It's making me feel better about how I work on my toys. I'm not the only one 😅
You connect the dwell meter + ti the - side of the coil and the other to ground and set the points to 30 on the meter with the motor running and you're done.
The vacuum advance should be hooked to ported vacuum
That Roadster is unbelievably cool , just looks amazing
This was a lot of fun Brent and Karl! 😎👍
A fun video Brent and Karl. Good people good times. Thanks for sharing! 💯👊👍💕
I always set points with a dwell meter. As the center “cam” wears out your end gap setting will change. Get the dwell setting to 30 and run it. Love the channel, both of the channels.
You and Karl are like ☯ you compliment each so well. You know the funny thing is you guys probably hooked up because of the old tube here. It was nice to see Esther pop in. I feel like Buddy is like me in his older age, he looked a lot more chipper without the cold of winter. It always seems like Pablo is smiling when you go for a boot. I want to thank you all for the great content and I'll catch you on the next one..later!!
I Just loved watching those two cars rolling down the road at the end there
Usually, if a Pertronix unit fails, you lose spark entirely. And yes, if you are going to run points, you need a dwell meter. Hook up the dwell meter, then use the Allen wrench to adjust the point gap to set the dwell to spec. We used to do that all the time….
Points and condenser and rotor are all I have ever used in my vintage cars, most recently Buicks. I agree, keep it simple.
What a sight those 2 rods made in that beautiful countryside. Nice job
In my early years motoring, you could get home with a screwdriver, pair of pliers, a small hammer, a lug wrench, and a roll of electric tape.
When you two guys get together fun happens ...I love how Buddy gravitates towards Karl the whole time...Buddy is generally the shy dog compared to Pablo...
Dwell changes timing so, it's best to set the dwell first then set timing.
A Buddy video, Brent n Karl, T n roadster, Pablo n Brent.
You two goof so well together 👍🏻🙃
Nice to see your 27 running properly again Brent. Thanks for the video
It looked like a great day hanging with a mate, and cruising, in beautiful weather, thanks for sharing, all the best to yous and your loved ones
I would like to see all your cars out lined up. I really like the t and the roadster. I like how there just together and drive. Not some finished full paint cars
🗿💨them uni-pounts was bad right outta the box ,at times. Only 1974 GM used em but it was easier for the diy er to loosen two bolts instead of three. Or if someone lost a point mounting bolt , guys would use the uni-points because it required two without a condenser mount screw. Enjoying the collaboration 👍 thanks for sharing ✌️
60 years ago dad taught me, {match book}. Don’t use a feeler gage. The oil on the gauge would get on the points and burn them out faster. Also don’t use a point file, same reason, use new clean emery cloth. Match book always worked.
Iv gone back to points on all my classics, spare condenser is all you need to take with you , points will always get you home, simple ,
Yes Karl, when your closer to the neon sign, I can here it click. Look like a good time with Brent and Karl!
Love it when you guys get together..good times eh lol 👌
Very cool to see you two guys hanging out and having fun working on stuff Brent!
Oh to have that problem-- I have to look at the registration to figure out the year. To many cars Brent!😆
One thing i see is a ballast resistor, and if that coil is a 12 vote one,(with a intrunel risistor ) you may not need the ballast witch lower you votes more cause a weak fire at the plugs causing a rich mix
No ballast resitor on petronix........
I have to run a ballast resistor with my Pertronix. Someone said I didn't need it, disconnected it and ten minutes later poof Put a new one in with the resistor 18 yrs ago, never a problem!😉
Electric tonic ignition needs 12v while points is 9v with a ballast resistor.
Enjoying your shows !
Used to have a dwell meter. Those gm widow cap, one piece points and condeser coupled with a dwell meter made a tune up easy. Enjoyed this video Brent.
the plate can get sticky with old grease or other cruft. You might need to clean/grease it. You can use a mighty-vac or other vacuum pump to see if the advance is any good. The dwell meter hook up depends on the meter. If you have an automotive style multi-meter it might have a dwell function but if you get the point gap right the dwell is right. They are 2 different ways of doing the same thing.
You and Karl are such best friends. You two can find funny in anything. Good video. Pablo was looking at the 27 like "who is driving my 27?". I learned about points and setting a dist. right.
Bring the Buick into the shop, it’s time for “flame on” and go for a burn.
Great video I learned something every time I watch.
Setting the dwell is the most accurate way to set points. The smaller the points gap the bigger the dwell is. I know your viewers are now going to send you dwell meters. 😆Cheers Stew
Boy your making me feel old now, I have a dwell meter and always used it on GM point systems years ago.
This video was so much fun, thank you guys. you made me laugh the all way! It's great to see you just having good times!
That waz lots of fun...so nice to have your own parts YARD...
GRRAT to c you and Karl out for a spin...keep well 👍🤠
Pablo looked great ride'n along... 🐶
Please rename this video how to make an old car old again, lol. Great stuff as always!
Mallory unilight is what I ran in my 302 and that thing ran awesome.
Yes we can hear the click of the sign. Have a great week guys.
Hey uncle,
I've really done the same with reverting back to poins from the upgraded electronic ignition,
We have a mr carman locally, which I was the first one to scrap their so called upgrade.
Now anywho
Ciao Ciao
The
Des
You can put volt meter on the wire from the coil to the points and check tobe sure you have 12 volts when running.
Pablo is just living his best life 😁
So much fun when you get together thanks for sharing 😀👍
Thank you both for a superb video , between the two of you anything and everything is possible . I could never get enough of your prize winning knowledge and sparky humor . Till we get together next time , May the best of life be yours , Stuart in Ontario ..
Sparky humor? Is that 16 or 32 gap humor 😅
Use a dwell meter and the dwell is 28 to 32
Haven't done one in a long long time but I was thinking .16 for the gap and 30 for the dwell. I guess I remembered about right. Now they just need the little tool to reach around everything when the distributor is in place. I think I have one in my toolbox.
The point gap sets the dwell angle which determines how long the coil has to chrage before firing. Too much gap will shorten the dwell and reduce the charge of the coil. Most all points set at about 0.012"- 0.015" for 4,6 or 8 cylinders-
I still have a dwell gage on my craftsman digital volt meter i used it in the 60’s and 70’s but i still keep it , just in case i ever need it. Great video guys!
One of your buddies has a dwell meter. Get it, set the point dwell to 30 degrees, then set timing. Good luck
Been a long time since I turned wrenches but do remember the "window" in the Dist Cap and adjusting the points with an allen wrench.
I remember sears/craftsman made a points and dwell meter gauge to help set them
yup..dwell was at 19...set running...did that on my 69 chevelle when i was in my 20s...
Red lead on meter goes to negative on coil,n of course black to ground,set at 30 degrees Brent
For points gap you can use a Canadian dime if need be. When newly minted they are 0.020" thick. Years ago when points were still the standard ignition I had a dome with a hole drilled in it and I kept it on my key chain. A dime will also work on old Harleys as they ran GM point assemblies.
Very KOOL Video Brent and Karl
When you put the Allen wrench in the window and hit the points they will change just from the wrench that's why you need a dwell meter I'd give you one I have 2 of them .just readjust the points with the wrench and keep reveing it until it's good like setting the timeing without a light
My 69 Chevy truck had that and I had a box that had timing and dwell you could open the door and set the dwell then you sprayed it with silicone to help water proof it
GM is .019, dwell is 30-35 degrees and yes, the points feed from the negative side of the coil, you can also drop the distributor in the right location and turn the crank by hand until it drops onto the oil pump shaft, and never set the timing with the vacuum advance hooked up
Shoulda built distributor access through the cowl vent.
Yeahhhhh! MAKE IT HALFASS collab.
Jup. Nothing beats oldschool hey. It just works. Always has. Always will.
yo HI again Halfass customs Brent and Ester from the D MI 😎 hey thanks for sharing another great video of the mighty T tweens 👍🤩💪😎🔥
Happy 4 th you guys!
Enjoy watching you work on the old stuff!
I’ve had 2 61 chevys with 283 in them and both had the little door on the distributor cap for adjusting the points.
Just about every GM car that uses points is gapped at .016 and 31 degrees of dwell. I CAN here the sign click. Brent you are exactly right. I have that distributor in my '65 Skylark. You can set the dwell by opening the little door and using an Allen key to set the dwell. GM used that distributor until they went to HEI.
Yeah you would hook up the dwell meter on the ignition coil, then open the sliding cover on the distributor cap. Then use a hex driver to adjust the dwell of the points while the engine is running at idle.
Sadly, I've had the issue where the Distributor housing was worn out on my 1970 Nove back in the day. I was 19 years old and did know a lot about it. I would set them, and they would stick it was wallowed out It took an older guy that was watching me struggle to figure it out.
Tuning the distributor sets the timing for # 1, the points gap sets the timing for the rest
Points all the way! I was figuring .018 on the gap. Point files,i have bought so many and and havent managed to keep a single one. I thought everyone knew about turning dist and moving oil pump shaft to get rotor to line up.
Dwell- longer points stay closed the longer the dwell. I have a meter. Rarely use it. They come up on marketplace. Tach/dwell meter.
Proper length screw could be holding up the backing plate.
Ahhh. Those daring young men in their jaunty jelopy.
What a great watch guys it has been real good watching your last videos the old points and condenser was my thing lol easy file reset gap life was good again simple thanks for sharing your time together 👍👋🇨🇦
I still have a dwell in the tool box kinda nice to use
Bret is the talent, Carl is the1st unit camera, the static camera is the 2nd unit camera and Ester is the guest star, doing a cameo? ;-D
I've suggested this before, I'd move the sign (20:32) to the wall by the stairs (more storage space).
Good luck finding a matchbook? ;-)
In order to set your points by dwell, you need to connect a dwell meter to the engine, start it and adjust the dwell with an Allen wrench or a screwdriver that has an Allen wrench end on it. They used to make a special screwdriver that had a spring made into the shaft that came with the Allen wrench end made just for that purpose. You will watch your meter and as you turn the screw to adjust the points the needle will move showing that the dwell is changing. Sometimes you could adjust the points by gap, but the dwell will not be right, it is always better to adjust them by dwell.
There's a tool that's basically a screwdriver type deal with a flexible shaft n the Allen wrench head