I'm applying enough pressure not to strip the bolt, I would never use a scaffolding pole. You will only end up with a snapped/stripped bolt head. I'll stick with my technique
Good stuff done my front ones my friend .great advise and video back ones next week after watching this.many thanks for the videos.and the finger bandage is just genius
The multi spline (12 sided bolts) are metric, hexagonal bolts are imperial. 300tdi should be metric, some early disco 1, rangies and Defenders were imperial.
Great video! 👍 Around 34.10 it's not the bearing that's tight, it's the new disc dragging on the pads because the disc isn't running true (tell tale marks on disc surface). The mating surfaces between the hub and disc both need to be clean & flat (no paint!). All I put on the inner rim of the disc and the hub is some copper slip in the vain hope it'll make it easier to take apart in future!🤞Also belting the hub where the seal goes with a hammer will a) fill the outer bearing up with crap (Hydraulic press was the right choice!) and could damage the seal & the recess it sits in! Replacing the seals & brake pads is a good move too (apologies if you did that!) And those hub/disc bolts need to be tighter than a 3/8 & short torque bar will give you! Disc coming adrift is not funny! Just my 2 pen'orth! 😉
Will be doing mine soon and this helped a lot thanks. One questions, (not looking at workshop manual at the mo) isn't there supposed to be a torque spec for the retaining nuts (inner and outer)? You did yours by feel, and I noticed they were finger tight at the beginning. Cheers!
@@m111kca4 I just looked up and yeah the torque on the inner nut is only 4 NM and 50 NM (depending on axle) on outer nut. Still learning here...doing for the first time when my parts arrive. Thanks for quick reply!
@@supermarinespitfire1 you will be fine, it's quite easy. You probably want a blow torch or a electric version to heat up bolts that don't want to undo. I've always done wheel bearings by feel, I'm looking for turning free but no play.
Love the vid but please tell me why the rotors were rusty in the first place What did you do to cause the calipers to squeeze and let go To me the calipers were not working causing the rotors to be rusty from non use
Tim Grenell was parked up for a while, that’s what happens when you don’t use a vehicle. Also live on Anglesey with the salt air, and they was definitely not working right. Master cylinder had gone, bought the vehicle with a list of problems.
That level of rust would do my head in as I'd know it was headed for the scrappies if it goes much further. It'd be getting explained better to, pronto.
What paint you used for the calipers snd hub? Is it heat resistant paint? I'm about to do all my brakes. And thought woild br a great stuff clean snd paint everything while im there. Thank you for your great videos!
You are not a mechanic... you are a beast working on the mountain of rust
More of a mechanic than these part fitters 😂
I was always taught not to use a ratchet (can f them up) for undoing stuck bolts, a breaker bar with a short scaffold pole extension works wonders.
I'm applying enough pressure not to strip the bolt, I would never use a scaffolding pole. You will only end up with a snapped/stripped bolt head. I'll stick with my technique
You did the pads.👍 Sorry, got distracted by the fish supper! 🍟
Good stuff done my front ones my friend .great advise and video back ones next week after watching this.many thanks for the videos.and the finger bandage is just genius
Nice to hear, glad there useful. Thanks, haha need to stop trapping and cutting my fingers.
@@m111kca4 haha happens all the time with me. regards pat
Thanks very much for sharing, just replaced the discs on my Defender and found the video really helpfull
Glad to hear that it helped you, thanks
Nice clear instructions great vid, lovely Jack Russell too!
Thanks
Great video and presentation, thanks for sharing!
Thanks
I ll try it also thx for the courage
You made it simple and made me like mine more
thanks
9:34 I heard that! Brute force and ignorance is definitely needed in this situation.
I wish, socket was starting to round off the bolt head. Could of easily rounded it off without much effort haha
The multi spline (12 sided bolts) are metric, hexagonal bolts are imperial. 300tdi should be metric, some early disco 1, rangies and Defenders were imperial.
Great video! 👍 Around 34.10 it's not the bearing that's tight, it's the new disc dragging on the pads because the disc isn't running true (tell tale marks on disc surface). The mating surfaces between the hub and disc both need to be clean & flat (no paint!). All I put on the inner rim of the disc and the hub is some copper slip in the vain hope it'll make it easier to take apart in future!🤞Also belting the hub where the seal goes with a hammer will a) fill the outer bearing up with crap (Hydraulic press was the right choice!) and could damage the seal & the recess it sits in! Replacing the seals & brake pads is a good move too (apologies if you did that!) And those hub/disc bolts need to be tighter than a 3/8 & short torque bar will give you! Disc coming adrift is not funny!
Just my 2 pen'orth! 😉
No way, if I did them any tighter they would of snapped, the bearing was tight. Still works 100% no play
Will be doing mine soon and this helped a lot thanks. One questions, (not looking at workshop manual at the mo) isn't there supposed to be a torque spec for the retaining nuts (inner and outer)? You did yours by feel, and I noticed they were finger tight at the beginning. Cheers!
Not fell off yet haha, I do everything by feel. Only use torque settings for head bolts and other stuff like that.
@@m111kca4 I just looked up and yeah the torque on the inner nut is only 4 NM and 50 NM (depending on axle) on outer nut. Still learning here...doing for the first time when my parts arrive. Thanks for quick reply!
@@supermarinespitfire1 you will be fine, it's quite easy. You probably want a blow torch or a electric version to heat up bolts that don't want to undo. I've always done wheel bearings by feel, I'm looking for turning free but no play.
Love the vid but please tell me why the rotors were rusty in the first place
What did you do to cause the calipers to squeeze and let go
To me the calipers were not working causing the rotors to be rusty from non use
Tim Grenell was parked up for a while, that’s what happens when you don’t use a vehicle. Also live on Anglesey with the salt air, and they was definitely not working right. Master cylinder had gone, bought the vehicle with a list of problems.
Calipers looked well seized, hence having to bash the pads out.
Thanks for the Vid! Are the front's much different? Also, do you have a video that shows replacing the axle seals?
Fronts are the same really from memory, I have no video of changing the axle seals as of yet. Thanks for watching
M111KCA thanks for the reply mate!
That level of rust would do my head in as I'd know it was headed for the scrappies if it goes much further. It'd be getting explained better to, pronto.
Still not in the scrap
And forgot to say.the little jack russel is the best friend.
He sure is, thanks
There are no bolt heads that hold my hub to the rotor, wtf? How do I separate them?
What model do you have, must be something
Damn that fish dinner look delicious bro
It was thanks
What paint you used for the calipers snd hub? Is it heat resistant paint? I'm about to do all my brakes. And thought woild br a great stuff clean snd paint everything while im there. Thank you for your great videos!
A bit too much oil and grease on those fish 'n chips mate.
😂