Well done, Neil !!! You covered a lot of areas I was curious about. This will make my first maintenance much easier. Great to see you on video and thank you for helping out us Atom 80/Parajet Maverick owners.
Good series, Neil. Why didn't you remove the Low/Hi jets before the ultrasonic cleaning? Tip on keeping your Ultrasonic cleaner clean: 1) Fill with clean distilled water. 2) Place disassembled carb and pieces into a ziplock Sandwich Bag, 3) Add detergent & water to sandwich bag. 4) Squeeze out all air while sealing sandwich bag. 5) Drop sandwich bag into the clean water in the Ultrasonic cleaner, and let it run for your normal amount of time. 6) Remove sandwich bag from Ultrasonic cleaner, drain dirty water from sandwich bag, and dump carb & parts onto paper towel. Carb is now clean and Ultrasonic Cleaner medium is still clean too. 👍😎👍
Dude that’s awesome! I never would have thought of that! I’m absolutely doing that from now on. As far as removing low/high screws, in accordance with Vittorazi warranty you cannot turn the high screw as they have a little metal seal on them so if you turn it you’ll void your warranty so it’s best I not show show that plus when you pull the metering diaphragm off the low and high Venturi is right there in the open so you can get them blasted out pretty good and not have to mess with the screws. I’ve rebuilt a few carbs that I didn’t have to tune a thing after I put them back together
High and low speed fuel screw settings, and how to adjust. Also, explain the effects of temperature, humidity and elevation on fuel mixture. Tune for low altitude performance, or high(er) altitudes?
I’ll let Neil confirm but I asked him too, and he said it was a combination of simple green and something else. Will post a link as soon as I can ask him.
Is the carb metering guage used the same for the moster? The same height (indent on guage) used for both or do you use a different part of that guage for a different height on the moster?
How dose a leak around the air rubber create a lean condition when it's before the carb I could understand if it was after the carb but definitely can't understand how it would do that before the carb
Hi, my plug gets black after 6-7 hours and leads to poor performance. I live at low altitude, hot and humid environment. My warrenty is expired as i checked the position of the H needle which was set to 1 turn from closed. Would you go for a hotter spark plug to burn off more oil (using 66:1 motul 800) or go leaner on the H? Thanks m8
@@FreedomQuestAdventures sorry I thought from your first post that you had been trying to tune the high screw. When was the last time to carb has been rebuilt?
@@Ellwoodsss1Because it has done this from new, and even now it has only about 17 hours on the engine, I don't think the carb needs rebuilding or cleaning. I've gone through 4 plugs - black with soot. I think they set them slightly rich at the factory, compound that with the hot, humid environment where I live - I think it just needs adjusting leaner, maybe 1/8th, or perhaps a hotter spark plug? Cheers
Question.... I'm on a trip and I've been having trouble with my motor. I think the carb is getting dirty and I think it's the screen getting clogged. I think if I took it off cleaned the screen and put it back together I could get through my trip until I can do a real cleaning..... If I took that diaphragm out to clean the screen, not taking anything else apart would I be able to put everything back together with old diaphragm and gaskets without causing issues....?
Hey Neil - great video! I have a question for those with a Tornado or Nitro 200 that use this same WB-37 carb, but use an external pulse fuel pump (I converted my Nitro 200 to use an external fuel pump that the Tornado uses). When rebuilding the carb, I still replace the gasket and membrane on the fuel pump side of the carb like normal - but I was wondering if it was recommended to cap off the pulse port fitting with something (since it's not being used)? I haven't done this - and I haven't really had any issues - but I wanted to make sure it wouldn't hurt anything if I did. I think I'd feel better if it was capped and not able to have any debris make its way into the carb. Thanks!
Hey Ryan, that’s a great idea to go with an external pump! Did you end up using a regulator? I have kit I plan on using on my next rig. I think a good consistent external fuel pump would be awesome to have on a lot of motors. Yeah I would probably cap it. It probably won’t make much of a difference other than potentially getting dirt and crud between the pump diaphragm and the pump cover but with that 90• pulse port I can’t imagine much getting in there. Vacuum cap is like .20 cents so might as well cap it
@@Ellwoodsss1 I didn’t use a regulator; I had asked Laurent from Air Conception, and he told me the pump used on the Tornado would work on the Nitro without any issues or regulator. I decided to go with the external pump because I was getting that bog down when I would lean over to pick up my risers (my pop off pressure was at 17psi). This pump helped with that - for a while at least. After about 60 hours I’m noticing bog again. It could need a cleaning (which I did at 30 hours of use, but it was pretty lean still). They tend to get oil buildup I’ve been told. Anyway, it still seems to offer as good or better performance than the carb pump. Also, I ended up using a piece of fuel line as my pulse line from the cylinder. I had tried stiffer, solid rubber hose, but I couldn’t see through it to spot oil buildup (which if bad enough can cause fuel starvation and a lean condition). When I changed to using Tygon fuel line in place, I was worried it would be too soft and collapse due to rhe pressure. But it seems fine and able to handle it.
😂😂 you have no idea how annoyed at myself I was when watching my hands through the edit😂😂 in my defense trying to line up the needle, metering lever and spring is impossible for me personally with gloves on.
Never pry up on the arm for the needle seat when the needle is in the seat. all you just did was groove out the needle tip and now you need a new needle. This dude should know that.
As usual… the guy that gets things done. Thanks for the 1-2 on the carb.
Well done, Neil !!! You covered a lot of areas I was curious about. This will make my first maintenance much easier. Great to see you on video and thank you for helping out us Atom 80/Parajet Maverick owners.
This channel is my favorite so far.
Tuning the carb is challenging for me please make a video about it.
Thank you
Great suggestion I think we will definitely have to do that soon.
Nice! Would like to see a full maintenance series... including an exhaust and how to tune the carb.
In the works!
Id love to see a top end and bottom end rebuild video.
Nice video Neil ! Thanks
Good series, Neil. Why didn't you remove the Low/Hi jets before the ultrasonic cleaning? Tip on keeping your Ultrasonic cleaner clean: 1) Fill with clean distilled water. 2) Place disassembled carb and pieces into a ziplock Sandwich Bag, 3) Add detergent & water to sandwich bag. 4) Squeeze out all air while sealing sandwich bag. 5) Drop sandwich bag into the clean water in the Ultrasonic cleaner, and let it run for your normal amount of time. 6) Remove sandwich bag from Ultrasonic cleaner, drain dirty water from sandwich bag, and dump carb & parts onto paper towel. Carb is now clean and Ultrasonic Cleaner medium is still clean too. 👍😎👍
Dude that’s awesome! I never would have thought of that! I’m absolutely doing that from now on.
As far as removing low/high screws, in accordance with Vittorazi warranty you cannot turn the high screw as they have a little metal seal on them so if you turn it you’ll void your warranty so it’s best I not show show that plus when you pull the metering diaphragm off the low and high Venturi is right there in the open so you can get them blasted out pretty good and not have to mess with the screws. I’ve rebuilt a few carbs that I didn’t have to tune a thing after I put them back together
What detergent solution?
Great carb maintenance guide 👍
Very helpful video.
A video about winterizing before long storage would be great!
Excellent Video and Excellent Maintenance Repair Tips. Thank You.
This vid is AMAZING. So glad I have found this channel. I’d love to see more maint vids. Great work. TY!
Great video!
Thank you.
Take care,
Be safe.
High and low speed fuel screw settings, and how to adjust. Also, explain the effects of temperature, humidity and elevation on fuel mixture. Tune for low altitude performance, or high(er) altitudes?
Great tutorial Neil, I'm sure I'll reference it again, thanks!
Will
Thank you for this. I don't fly yet but I'm just doing some research on maintenance for these machines
We teach all the maintenance you should need for the basics in our flight training :)
@@aviator I'd probably be coming to you guys when the time comes I'm ready for training
Great Video Neil but that carbi looks like a WB3A or WB32 not a WB37
Is this the same proccess for the older wg8 carb version? Looking to rebuild that one and follow along
Well done Niel ! Thanks for great work.Can you explain How the diaphragm is driven by?
Very exhaustive....thanks a lot
What a great video, well done and thanks
Great Video, good explanations! Thank you!
Where can I find this torque spec list hanging on your door?
I think they came out of the Vittorazi manuals, just printed specific pages! Good eye!
Way ta go Neil, great video and narration 🤟☺️ I look forward to seeing more videos for sure
Great video. On testing the pop off pressure - what adjustments do you make to the carb if the pop off pressure is off?
Can you do a top rebuild on a Moster?
Now this is some good content for noobs like me
Would you mind posting the cleaning solution you used in your ultrasonic cleaner? Maybe even put it with your other links. Thanks!!!
I’ll let Neil confirm but I asked him too, and he said it was a combination of simple green and something else. Will post a link as soon as I can ask him.
I just use dish detergent and water. The hotter, the better.
I usually just use simple green and really hot water. Maybe spray a little carb cleaner in the mix if I’m feeling froggy
What physical difference do you see between walbro 37 used on the Atom 80 versus the 185 motor? or they are exact same.
2:15 "There you go...Bob's your uncle" lol
Curious… new kit has screens which appear to have a finer mesh than stock carburetor… which would you recommend?
I didn't see you remove the fuel air mixture screws and clean the passages
Hi Neil. where can I buy the Handy box? Couldn t find it in Amazon. Thank you!
Is the carb metering guage used the same for the moster? The same height (indent on guage) used for both or do you use a different part of that guage for a different height on the moster?
Use windex to slide the new hoses.
How dose a leak around the air rubber create a lean condition when it's before the carb I could understand if it was after the carb but definitely can't understand how it would do that before the carb
how many hours has this engine covered?
Hi, my plug gets black after 6-7 hours and leads to poor performance. I live at low altitude, hot and humid environment. My warrenty is expired as i checked the position of the H needle which was set to 1 turn from closed. Would you go for a hotter spark plug to burn off more oil (using 66:1 motul 800) or go leaner on the H? Thanks m8
Where in the rpm range are you doing most of your flying? Are you mostly full throttle climbing or just cruising?
@@Ellwoodsss1 it's an atom 80 so it's used mostly in the upper rpm zone, which is why adjusting the L hasn't made a difference to the spark colour.
@@FreedomQuestAdventures sorry I thought from your first post that you had been trying to tune the high screw. When was the last time to carb has been rebuilt?
@@Ellwoodsss1Because it has done this from new, and even now it has only about 17 hours on the engine, I don't think the carb needs rebuilding or cleaning. I've gone through 4 plugs - black with soot. I think they set them slightly rich at the factory, compound that with the hot, humid environment where I live - I think it just needs adjusting leaner, maybe 1/8th, or perhaps a hotter spark plug? Cheers
thank you!
Great video.
24:42 Is there a rubber gasket replacement for this blue piece? Mine seems to be decomposing and falling apart outside the threads.
What torque is right for the NGK BR9ES spark plug on my Atom 80? The torque spec is not in my Vittorazi manual. Thanks.
Question.... I'm on a trip and I've been having trouble with my motor. I think the carb is getting dirty and I think it's the screen getting clogged. I think if I took it off cleaned the screen and put it back together I could get through my trip until I can do a real cleaning..... If I took that diaphragm out to clean the screen, not taking anything else apart would I be able to put everything back together with old diaphragm and gaskets without causing issues....?
I’ve done that on trips several times.
Also my atom 80 has a wg8 carb. I don't seem to see many atom 80s with that carb
Hey Neil - great video! I have a question for those with a Tornado or Nitro 200 that use this same WB-37 carb, but use an external pulse fuel pump (I converted my Nitro 200 to use an external fuel pump that the Tornado uses). When rebuilding the carb, I still replace the gasket and membrane on the fuel pump side of the carb like normal - but I was wondering if it was recommended to cap off the pulse port fitting with something (since it's not being used)? I haven't done this - and I haven't really had any issues - but I wanted to make sure it wouldn't hurt anything if I did. I think I'd feel better if it was capped and not able to have any debris make its way into the carb. Thanks!
Hey Ryan, that’s a great idea to go with an external pump! Did you end up using a regulator? I have kit I plan on using on my next rig. I think a good consistent external fuel pump would be awesome to have on a lot of motors.
Yeah I would probably cap it. It probably won’t make much of a difference other than potentially getting dirt and crud between the pump diaphragm and the pump cover but with that 90• pulse port I can’t imagine much getting in there. Vacuum cap is like .20 cents so might as well cap it
@@Ellwoodsss1 I didn’t use a regulator; I had asked Laurent from Air Conception, and he told me the pump used on the Tornado would work on the Nitro without any issues or regulator. I decided to go with the external pump because I was getting that bog down when I would lean over to pick up my risers (my pop off pressure was at 17psi). This pump helped with that - for a while at least. After about 60 hours I’m noticing bog again. It could need a cleaning (which I did at 30 hours of use, but it was pretty lean still). They tend to get oil buildup I’ve been told. Anyway, it still seems to offer as good or better performance than the carb pump. Also, I ended up using a piece of fuel line as my pulse line from the cylinder. I had tried stiffer, solid rubber hose, but I couldn’t see through it to spot oil buildup (which if bad enough can cause fuel starvation and a lean condition). When I changed to using Tygon fuel line in place, I was worried it would be too soft and collapse due to rhe pressure. But it seems fine and able to handle it.
Gloves bro gloves!
😂😂 you have no idea how annoyed at myself I was when watching my hands through the edit😂😂 in my defense trying to line up the needle, metering lever and spring is impossible for me personally with gloves on.
… and you’re a man.
Hello!!!
Hmm.m.. My airbox boot was cracked at 10 hours. Any idea what could've caused that?
Never pry up on the arm for the needle seat when the needle is in the seat. all you just did was groove out the needle tip and now you need a new needle. This dude should know that.
You may want to contact Walbro and let them know their videos and manuals are all wrong too….
He should wear some gloves to that cleaner is nasty.
@@577buttfan 😂😂😂😂😂😘
Whats Bob's your uncle? Did you have bet bet you could slip that in???
I’m glad you noticed I totally shoehorned that in😂😂😂
@Butch Grisso...."and Bob's your uncle" is an Andrewism.