I've watched this series a couple of times, and really appreciate the editing and time this took. I plan on doing a rebuild on my 1600DP soon, and naturally have watched a ton of videos and material on the job. This is one of the more comprehensive and well laid out videos out there, thank you!
They are worth doing. This case was a late model dual-relief case that had them as stock. Should just be drill out the existing stud holes and tap them to the new size then thread the case savers in - they probably sell it as a kit.
Check the main bearings, if they aren't correctly aligned or the dowels are slightly off the crank shaft won't spin freely. It is very easy to get the front bearing wrong and miss the dowel and when you bolt up the cases it distorts that bearing. Slow and steady is the way to go putting the crank shaft in.
Yes the two gears with a spacer in between go are located by the wafer key (or round bottom key) on the crankshaft. The crank shaft gear that drives the cam shaft has a couple of dots around one tooth that line up with a dot on the cam shaft gear so you've go to make sure you put the first gear on the crank shaft with the dots facing out - I remember this now ever sice I got it back to front on one :) Sounds like you've done you crank bearings and maybe the cam shaft if the sand has got around.
If number one is on the firing stroke then both valves should be closed so sounds like you have it right. As long as the timing gear is on the crank shaft correctly and the timing marks line up it must be right I reckon.
Yes to fit the camshaft drive and the distributor gear onto the crank shaft you need to heat them - doesn't take much to get them to slide on easily but they cool very quickly once they touch the shaft so you have to get it right first time and fast. I just use engine oil in a metal cup on a gas camp stove but you can do it with an electric hot plate too.
In these parts to rebuild a motor usually costs around $2000 for materials plus labour. If you are doing the motor the minimum would be new barrels and pistons, gasket set, main bearings and cam bearings but you need to check the crank shaft and cam for wear. If they are worn then it's the machining costs on top of this which is getting up there. In the US the parts are cheaper so if you do it yourself and shop at CIP1 or similar you could do it for under a grand.
Yes if they aren't matched to the crank shaft. They make a range of bearings depending on how much your crank has been ground so you need to match them with the crank. If your crank is still stock with wear then you pretty much have to use stock bearings. Take the crank to a machine shop who do crank regrinds and they should be able to check it and measure it for a small charge, they will also tell you the correct bearings to use.
The distributor drive gear is a press fit on the crank shaft so you have to heat it to expand it enough to slip on. Same with the oil pump gear. Some people use direct heat like a hot plate or a gas torch but I prefer heating it in engine oil as it is a bit gentler. It cools very fast once you put it on so you need to get it right first time.
No just my warped sense of humor :) they always cover the brand in the "real" DIY videos so I thought it would be amusing to do the same. It is the Selleys one and I use the grey as it looks tidier than the hot rod red you see a lot.
I sourced the bits from several places, mostly local VW guys but check out fleabay, CIP1 and Pacific. I have been getting into trouble with the music so now I make it all myself with Musicmaker to avoid the drama :)
Nice video, I own a 1970 VW Transporter Bus with a 1600 cc engine. I currently have the engine at machine shop getting the works done, but keeping stock. I will soon put it back together, I have never rebuilt anything and I'm kind of worried on putting it back together. I noticed you pull out one of the gears out of a burner, why did you do this and what is the purpose? What did you use as a liquid how long did you heat if up? Once again thank you for posting these videos on how to.
On the subject of brand x. Hope it didn't seize the engine. My first build did when it got in the main bearing oil galley. For those wondering, never use silicone or similar. The case is not machined to account for a .001- .0 whatever gap from the silicone. Use aircraft sealer or curil t or similar
***** I use permatex aviation since they have it at Pep boys, It brushes on more like brownish paint. Silicone is ok everywhere except the case seal but I prefer the aviation sealer on all other spots. I will use silicone black or red at case to cylinders. (don't use the paper gaskets there) and as always nothing in between cylinders and head. you can email me at g mail
***** You can put it together immediately, the aircraft stuff or curil t are actually non-hardening sealers. The aircraft stuff turns into a sticky kinda syrup when it dries a little. I like gloves because it's a pain to clean off your fingers. I've also heard good stuff about Yamabond from yamaha. not sure what that is like. It's also a good idea to mock up everything and even torque it down a bit. make sure everything is turning over freely like butter. Make absolutely sure all the bearings are seated w the pins correct. pinch a bearing and you wasted $50
Wiredkiwi- did you buy an engine rebuild kit and if so, what company did you buy it from?? Also--I love your soundtrack - you made that yourself didn't you?
Grab the front pulley with the motor in the car and see how far you can move it forward to back. If the bottom end is badly worn it will move 3mm (1/8th of an inch) or worse, if it barely moves (like less than 1mm) then just do a top-end rebuild ie new barrels and pistons and maybe heads. Yes I would go for a rebuild kit as they include a lot of stuff you might forget to buy but keep it stock more or less and the motor will be fine (ie don't try to build a big cc motor on an old bottom end).
Hi, i have a 1970 riviera bus. The videos help a lot, i really want to make sure i don't mess up the cam timing, When piston one is at top dead center, where should the cam lobes closest to the fly wheel sit? mine are pointing down roughly at 45 degree angles. The timing marks line up, but not when piston one is straight up, is that alright?
Excellent video friend! That's what I call making c affection interesting how you used to put the gears in the shaft end! you used only hot water? Here in Brazil just has such care ..
@Eury45107 Yes it used to drive me mad too :) the trick is to use a little grease - just enough to hold them in. It will disolve into the oil once the engine is started.They hold so well the you can often still feel them when you slide the push rods in later on.
Check the oil type you are using, it might be getting too thin and dropping pressure. The Brazillian beetles were 1500's and IRS rears for many years when the rest of the world was 1600 and swing axle so it might be right. In New Zealand and Australia the only IRS beetles we saw were the 1302's onwards apart from the odd automatic ones.
Could be too much end play which is a sign of bottom end wear in general and ideally means a line-bore and new bearings/seals etc. You might be able to re-shim the fly wheel to minimize it but it is probably leaking oil from the fly wheel end and making a mess down under. Smoke comes from the top end so lack of it means either it has had a top end rebuild or it has had a gentle life.
ok thank you...i made sure all the bearings were in place....and it still wont spin... do you think the problem could be that i bought new bearings? mabey they are too tight?
Great video. I have a 1600 in my 68 bus and the main seal keeps leaking even though I have replaced it 4 times. Does this mean I need a total rebuild? I have heard that a leaking seal means there is too much endplay and it is tearing up my seals. What do you think? My bus does not smoke but I wonder if I need a rebuild.
I was wondering on either of those gears u put on the crank is there a notch or anything also are there marks for lining up the cam and crank gears I'm thinking bout rebuilding my dp 1600 took it creek riding with those holes in the exhaust for the carb heater open and ended up w sand in the bottom end lost oil pressure so I cut it off changed oil and filters and lots of carb cleaner and finally got it cleaned out but its got a rattle to it now
Hello, do you have a video about to change the oil sealer in the crankshaft? I have a leak of oil in my VW 1992, but the motor is complete (I need to change the sealer only) Thank you in advance Wired! Regards from Sonora, Mexico
Howdy - I've never heard of lining the marks up with the case - as long as the mark on the cam shaft sits between the two marks on the crank shaft gear it is the right orientation. I might have fudged it a bit in the video editting but they did end up in the right position and I have since driven a lot of miles on this motor so it must have been right. :)
Should I buy a complete rebuild kit with pistons and everything else or would I be better off taking it apart and measuring all of the tolerances? Bottom end wear means everything around the crankshaft have too much play? It does not smoke but it does have that pounding like sound which I guess is my crankshaft moving on the endplay. Would a total rebuild end this leaking problem. How do I know if my bearing has torn up the case. I see no evidence of metal shaving anywhere. Thank you.
The gear needs to be heated up to expand it enough to fit on the crank shaft. I heated it up in regular motor oil heated on a camp stove. The oil helps make it an even heat but you can just heat them directly on an electric hot plate etc to achieve the same result.
how much do the parts cost for a rebuild? i got a 67 that overheated... and now it "Cries" when it gets warm. The engine aint stuck... but after 30 seconds or so it starts sounding "Mechanically bad" right down the crank jornals.
Good afternoon! I have a question. I VW engine reconditioning 1500. The Bronzinas forão replaced 's okay to be without ace travinhas, which are below. thank you!
Hello, I live in Brazil have a VW Beetle 1973 with 1600 engine but the block seems to be 1500 according to the numbering, this combination and normal? When I run with it for longer light oil rises, you know why this ocontece, can be a problem? Thank you. Pablo Lima
hello i have a question.. i am rebuilding my 1973 1600 and i was asembling the case the crank shaft would not spin. what do you think went wrong? please help
oi meu fusca 1600 trancou o motor tava com oleo novo nao fumaçava e nao fazia nenhum barulho estranho qual o motivo a polia ficou super pesada para ser girada com as maos
You talking about what you are doing would have been better than the shitty music! But thanks! Why don't you use the special bearing lubricant for rebuilds?, apparently oil is not enough. Thanks!
Artistic and mechanical excellence. Enjoyed it very much.
I've watched this series a couple of times, and really appreciate the editing and time this took. I plan on doing a rebuild on my 1600DP soon, and naturally have watched a ton of videos and material on the job. This is one of the more comprehensive and well laid out videos out there, thank you!
They are worth doing. This case was a late model dual-relief case that had them as stock. Should just be drill out the existing stud holes and tap them to the new size then thread the case savers in - they probably sell it as a kit.
Check the main bearings, if they aren't correctly aligned or the dowels are slightly off the crank shaft won't spin freely. It is very easy to get the front bearing wrong and miss the dowel and when you bolt up the cases it distorts that bearing. Slow and steady is the way to go putting the crank shaft in.
Yes the two gears with a spacer in between go are located by the wafer key (or round bottom key) on the crankshaft. The crank shaft gear that drives the cam shaft has a couple of dots around one tooth that line up with a dot on the cam shaft gear so you've go to make sure you put the first gear on the crank shaft with the dots facing out - I remember this now ever sice I got it back to front on one :) Sounds like you've done you crank bearings and maybe the cam shaft if the sand has got around.
LOL Brand X Sealer. With 149,908 views I would think they would have gladly sponsored you :). Great vid I am leaning a lot
If number one is on the firing stroke then both valves should be closed so sounds like you have it right. As long as the timing gear is on the crank shaft correctly and the timing marks line up it must be right I reckon.
Just excellent
And thank you for NOT having that GIGABOO BBOooM CRAP MUSIC, YOUR IS GREAT.
And THANK YOU FOR A WELL DONE VIDEO......
Yes to fit the camshaft drive and the distributor gear onto the crank shaft you need to heat them - doesn't take much to get them to slide on easily but they cool very quickly once they touch the shaft so you have to get it right first time and fast. I just use engine oil in a metal cup on a gas camp stove but you can do it with an electric hot plate too.
In these parts to rebuild a motor usually costs around $2000 for materials plus labour. If you are doing the motor the minimum would be new barrels and pistons, gasket set, main bearings and cam bearings but you need to check the crank shaft and cam for wear. If they are worn then it's the machining costs on top of this which is getting up there. In the US the parts are cheaper so if you do it yourself and shop at CIP1 or similar you could do it for under a grand.
gracias por la publicacion me ayudo arto y que DIOS te vendiga en todo
Very impressive videos.trying to install case savers. Just don't know how much work I'm getting my self into.
Yes if they aren't matched to the crank shaft. They make a range of bearings depending on how much your crank has been ground so you need to match them with the crank. If your crank is still stock with wear then you pretty much have to use stock bearings. Take the crank to a machine shop who do crank regrinds and they should be able to check it and measure it for a small charge, they will also tell you the correct bearings to use.
The distributor drive gear is a press fit on the crank shaft so you have to heat it to expand it enough to slip on. Same with the oil pump gear. Some people use direct heat like a hot plate or a gas torch but I prefer heating it in engine oil as it is a bit gentler. It cools very fast once you put it on so you need to get it right first time.
No just my warped sense of humor :) they always cover the brand in the "real" DIY videos so I thought it would be amusing to do the same. It is the Selleys one and I use the grey as it looks tidier than the hot rod red you see a lot.
I sourced the bits from several places, mostly local VW guys but check out fleabay, CIP1 and Pacific. I have been getting into trouble with the music so now I make it all myself with Musicmaker to avoid the drama :)
Obrigado!
muito bom os seu videos!
Thank you!
its very good the videos!
Nice video, I own a 1970 VW Transporter Bus with a 1600 cc engine. I currently have the engine at machine shop getting the works done, but keeping stock. I will soon put it back together, I have never rebuilt anything and I'm kind of worried on putting it back together. I noticed you pull out one of the gears out of a burner, why did you do this and what is the purpose? What did you use as a liquid how long did you heat if up? Once again thank you for posting these videos on how to.
You've missed to install the oil retainer before installing the flywheel. Regards from Argentina!.
On the subject of brand x. Hope it didn't seize the engine. My first build did when it got in the main bearing oil galley. For those wondering, never use silicone or similar. The case is not machined to account for a .001- .0 whatever gap from the silicone. Use aircraft sealer or curil t or similar
***** I use permatex aviation since they have it at Pep boys, It brushes on more like brownish paint. Silicone is ok everywhere except the case seal but I prefer the aviation sealer on all other spots. I will use silicone black or red at case to cylinders. (don't use the paper gaskets there) and as always nothing in between cylinders and head. you can email me at g mail
***** You can put it together immediately, the aircraft stuff or curil t are actually non-hardening sealers. The aircraft stuff turns into a sticky kinda syrup when it dries a little. I like gloves because it's a pain to clean off your fingers. I've also heard good stuff about Yamabond from yamaha. not sure what that is like. It's also a good idea to mock up everything and even torque it down a bit. make sure everything is turning over freely like butter. Make absolutely sure all the bearings are seated w the pins correct. pinch a bearing and you wasted $50
Wiredkiwi-
did you buy an engine rebuild kit and if so, what company did you buy it from??
Also--I love your soundtrack - you made that yourself didn't you?
fenomenallll se ve el trabajo muy bien hecho
Grab the front pulley with the motor in the car and see how far you can move it forward to back. If the bottom end is badly worn it will move 3mm (1/8th of an inch) or worse, if it barely moves (like less than 1mm) then just do a top-end rebuild ie new barrels and pistons and maybe heads. Yes I would go for a rebuild kit as they include a lot of stuff you might forget to buy but keep it stock more or less and the motor will be fine (ie don't try to build a big cc motor on an old bottom end).
Hi, i have a 1970 riviera bus. The videos help a lot, i really want to make sure i don't mess up the cam timing, When piston one is at top dead center, where should the cam lobes closest to the fly wheel sit? mine are pointing down roughly at 45 degree angles. The timing marks line up, but not when piston one is straight up, is that alright?
Excelente vídeo, muchas gracias!!
Excellent video friend! That's what I call making c affection interesting how you used to put the gears in the shaft end! you used only hot water? Here in Brazil just has such care ..
@Eury45107 Yes it used to drive me mad too :) the trick is to use a little grease - just enough to hold them in. It will disolve into the oil once the engine is started.They hold so well the you can often still feel them when you slide the push rods in later on.
Check the oil type you are using, it might be getting too thin and dropping pressure. The Brazillian beetles were 1500's and IRS rears for many years when the rest of the world was 1600 and swing axle so it might be right. In New Zealand and Australia the only IRS beetles we saw were the 1302's onwards apart from the odd automatic ones.
Could be too much end play which is a sign of bottom end wear in general and ideally means a line-bore and new bearings/seals etc. You might be able to re-shim the fly wheel to minimize it but it is probably leaking oil from the fly wheel end and making a mess down under. Smoke comes from the top end so lack of it means either it has had a top end rebuild or it has had a gentle life.
ok thank you...i made sure all the bearings were in place....and it still wont spin... do you think the problem could be that i bought new bearings? mabey they are too tight?
Great video. I have a 1600 in my 68 bus and the main seal keeps leaking even though I have replaced it 4 times. Does this mean I need a total rebuild? I have heard that a leaking seal means there is too much endplay and it is tearing up my seals. What do you think? My bus does not smoke but I wonder if I need a rebuild.
Nice vids..question for ya what were u doing with the torch n liquid?
I was wondering on either of those gears u put on the crank is there a notch or anything also are there marks for lining up the cam and crank gears I'm thinking bout rebuilding my dp 1600 took it creek riding with those holes in the exhaust for the carb heater open and ended up w sand in the bottom end lost oil pressure so I cut it off changed oil and filters and lots of carb cleaner and finally got it cleaned out but its got a rattle to it now
Hello, do you have a video about to change the oil sealer in the crankshaft? I have a leak of oil in my VW 1992, but the motor is complete (I need to change the sealer only) Thank you in advance Wired! Regards from Sonora, Mexico
Yes I had the engine cases align bored and fitted new oversize crankshaft bearings.
Howdy - I've never heard of lining the marks up with the case - as long as the mark on the cam shaft sits between the two marks on the crank shaft gear it is the right orientation. I might have fudged it a bit in the video editting but they did end up in the right position and I have since driven a lot of miles on this motor so it must have been right. :)
El que sabe sabe no cabe duda
if u line up the distributor to the case facing pulley, does that mean that when u install the cam and crank it will be at the correct spot for tdc?
Should I buy a complete rebuild kit with pistons and everything else or would I be better off taking it apart and measuring all of the tolerances? Bottom end wear means everything around the crankshaft have too much play? It does not smoke but it does have that pounding like sound which I guess is my crankshaft moving on the endplay. Would a total rebuild end this leaking problem. How do I know if my bearing has torn up the case. I see no evidence of metal shaving anywhere. Thank you.
GREAT VIDEO
The gear needs to be heated up to expand it enough to fit on the crank shaft. I heated it up in regular motor oil heated on a camp stove. The oil helps make it an even heat but you can just heat them directly on an electric hot plate etc to achieve the same result.
Haha thanks - actually it just wasn't shown in the video but I did fit it - but well spotted anyway.
can you tell me the reason why you heat up the gears before putting them in? Also, are you just soaking them in regular motor oil?
What did you do about lifters in the top half of the case as you assembled it
e podrias decir para que calentaste los carretes y si los pones en aceite gracias
how much do the parts cost for a rebuild? i got a 67 that overheated... and now it "Cries" when it gets warm. The engine aint stuck... but after 30 seconds or so it starts sounding "Mechanically bad" right down the crank jornals.
Gracias, me gusta :)
did u make that beat?
Good afternoon!
I have a question.
I VW engine reconditioning 1500.
The Bronzinas forão replaced
's okay to be without ace travinhas, which are below.
thank you!
Hello, I live in Brazil have a VW Beetle 1973 with 1600 engine but the block seems to be 1500 according to the numbering, this combination and normal? When I run with it for longer light oil rises, you know why this ocontece, can be a problem? Thank you. Pablo Lima
El que sabe,sabe ... Y si no es jefe , jajaja
hello i have a question..
i am rebuilding my 1973 1600 and i was asembling the case the crank shaft would not spin. what do you think went wrong?
please help
Is there any reason you had the tube of sealant/gasket maker covered up?
how long and what temperature did you heat up the distributor timing gear?
No idea how hot, heated it in oil for about 5 minutes - it is brass so expands easily with a bit of heat.
oi meu fusca 1600 trancou o motor tava com oleo novo nao fumaçava e nao fazia nenhum barulho estranho qual o motivo a polia ficou super pesada para ser girada com as maos
i´d like to know the torque espect
Costo del trabajo
this would be a really great if the music was so loud
like the veideo but not the audio
You talking about what you are doing would have been better than the shitty music! But thanks! Why don't you use the special bearing lubricant for rebuilds?, apparently oil is not enough. Thanks!