Nice video 👏👏👏. It might be worth mentioning that you will need two sizes of sockets to do this job. You need a 1 and 1/16" socket to remove the old anode rod as that is the standard size for that product. The Corro Protec requires a 1 and 3/16" socket to install. Both sockets also need to be 6 point sockets (not 12 point) as 12 point sockets can slip under the large torques involved.
I almost purchased one of these. After reading negative reviews on Amazon, I had to pass. Several of the new style look exactly the same as the $150 one you mentioned, and their also manufactured in Canada as well. I would assume their made by the same company and allowed to place their name on the package like other items business currently do. The only advantage of buying the $150 part, is there warranty, and some reviews had warranty issues. I think I will just flush my tank every 4 months and change my Anode every 3 years and hopefully my Gas Water Heater will get 12 to 15 years usage.
There's no substitute for regular maintenance. If your well water stinks, change the standard magnesium to an ALUMINUM anode, and check every couple years.
Hi Luke, I didn't see many negative reviews on Amazon at all and several of the ones that have less than 5 stars are because there are some hot water heaters that are apparently incompatible with this product (some AO Smith hot water heaters were mentioned in those reviews). For many home owners, checking the condition of the anode rod is not an easy task at all and many would need to pay a plumber to do the work. The cost of that service can really add up over the years and make the cost of this $150 product seen trivial. An impact wrench is almost a necessity for this job as wrenching with a cheater bar can easily rotate the whole hot water heater. You really need to tie down the hot water heater with straps and have a helper hold the hot water heater in place if you're going to use a wrench with cheater bar. A competent DIY person with all the proper tools who stays on top of all their appliances on a regular basis and does not have a problem with sulfur smelling hot water could get by without this product. But for those not in that group it is a viable solution for addressing the need to properly maintain their not water heater...in my opinion, of course. 😊
I just put some food grade Hydrogen Peroxide in my water softener brine tank the did a manual regeneration and it eliminated the smell on my new hot water tank. This will also clean the resin beads in your softener. Hydrogen Peroxide will not harm the resin I am told but depending on your water usage you may have to repeat it again. I am not sure if the Corro Protec will still protect the tank as well as the original anode rod.
Hello ! I thought about putting H2O2 in the tank as well, but you would still need to continue adding it every 1-3 months depending on water usage. I did not want to keep opening the tank just to add the peroxide. So far, the corro protec is working with no issues. It has been three years now, I believe. I will keep you posted. :)
Will the Cheaper Powered anode rods that they sell on Amazon work just as well as the More expensive "double the price" units Corro-Protec sells . I have not found a compare video on these different powered anodes
Hi and thanks for watching. That’s a great question. Unfortunately, I don’t have an answer for that. I have learned from my years of experience, you very much get what you pay for and later on end up buying the more pricier one, thus paying for more than what you would have initially spent in the beginning. I am not making any money for corro protec device. What can tell you is the one I have now has been working flawlessly from time I installed to present day. I guess time will tell :).
Do u have a water softner too??? With the corro-protect, aren’t u suppose to remove it every year to inspect it?? If u have to remove it to check it, then why not just put a new anode Rod every year? Like an aluminum-zinc Rod? I’m having the same issue and trying to figure out what I should do. Did u chlorinate ur water since it smelled before changing the Rod? Or just changing to the corro-protect was sufficient to get rid of the smell?? Thanks for any help or advice!!!!!!!
Hello, and thanks for watching. A water softener will not change the outcome of your water smelling like sulfur. You can put a new anode rod, aluminum, to your water heater, but sincerely, I have too much on my plate to remember to change the ride every so often. you can drop chlorine into your well which may help to some degree, But, regardless, you still have to run all your faucets to get the chlorine out as it is undrinkable and you may ruin your clothes if you’re doing laundry. The New Anode Rod I installed has not failed since it was placed. Another option, is pour place hydrogen peroxide into your water heater, however, this only last about 2 to 3 months until you have to do it again. I am more of a once and done type, and this seems to be the best option after doing diligent research. I hope this helps and good luck.
In my earlier videos, I also installed a De-scaler that is also downstream from the water heater. This helps with the scaling process that does occur in well water.
I am getting a smell the first time I open the water after I run the water the smell is gone.. I have city supplied water and I am considering changing the anode rod. I hope it helps..
I have a family member with the same issue as well. you may get away with just changing the anode rod rather than using the corro protec. Let me know how it turns out
Use an aluminum anode if you have sulphur in your water. That is the tried and true PROVEN solution. Most tanks come stock with a MAGNESIUM anode which doesn't play nice with sulphur rich well water.
Teflon needs to be stretched tight so that it conforms to the threads otherwise as you wind it and it will just push the Teflon up and off! And wind the Teflon in the direction that the plug is gonna screw into the tank so clockwise!
Hello John. That smell was putrid when we first moved in. To date, the rod is working well and no foul smell with the hot water. Hope this helps. Be sure to grab the right size for your tank! Thanks for watching!
Maybe you did a lot of the tougher work off camera, your rod came off so easy. I have one that is about 10 years old , and I had trouble . It eventually came off after over a week soaking with WD40 and the electric impact finally did it. I almost had to borrow an air impact to get the 200 lb ? torque needed the weaker electric cannot supply.
Hey Tony. I’m happy you were able to get it out. What you saw is what I did as it happened. The heater was only less than three years old when I removed the rod.
i had success with old anodes by striking the top with a large hammer to break the rust in the threads. Best thing is to take them out when the tank is new and apply teflon tape.
A Powered Anode is called an ICCP devise (induced current cathodic protection). Its purpose is to supply the tank with electrons to prevent interior corrosion of the tank and nothing more. It is the removal of the aluminum/magnesium anode that stops hot water odor, not the powered anode. If your well head has not been sanitized in years or if you keep the tanks temperature around 120 degrees, you will still have the odor. If you turn your main tanks temp to 130 degrees, the heat will kill the incoming sulfate bacteria instantly and the odor associated with it. I have been selling ICCP systems (powered anode rod) for years and periodically, homeowners email me when they run into this problem. 130 degrees will fix it 98% of the time.
I appreciate that! That darn smell is a nuisance. Originally, the smell was gone, but now and then I have a hint of it from time to time. I will check the temperatures. Thanks for your time to write this up!
I would HIGHLY recommend that you DON’T activate the pressure relief valve. There is a chance that the valve will not re-seat, and then you have to replace it. Good luck! 😉
and risk your tank exploding? If it won't close, it (the PRV) was due for replacement anyway. Another trick is using vinegar or muriatic acid to dissolve the deposits and re-install.
It's great seeing a homeowner doing a DIY task instead of calling a plumber. Thanks for posting this video.
Most definately. Thanks for watching!
Nice video 👏👏👏. It might be worth mentioning that you will need two sizes of sockets to do this job. You need a 1 and 1/16" socket to remove the old anode rod as that is the standard size for that product. The Corro Protec requires a 1 and 3/16" socket to install. Both sockets also need to be 6 point sockets (not 12 point) as 12 point sockets can slip under the large torques involved.
Hey 👋🏼 thanks for installing our product! I’m glad you like it!
Thanks for a great product!
I almost purchased one of these. After reading negative reviews on Amazon, I had to pass. Several of the new style look exactly the same as the $150 one you mentioned, and their also manufactured in Canada as well. I would assume their made by the same company and allowed to place their name on the package like other items business currently do. The only advantage of buying the $150 part, is there warranty, and some reviews had warranty issues. I think I will just flush my tank every 4 months and change my Anode every 3 years and hopefully my Gas Water Heater will get 12 to 15 years usage.
Thanks for the info. I appreciate it! And thanks for watching :)
There's no substitute for regular maintenance. If your well water stinks, change the standard magnesium to an ALUMINUM anode, and check every couple years.
Hi Luke, I didn't see many negative reviews on Amazon at all and several of the ones that have less than 5 stars are because there are some hot water heaters that are apparently incompatible with this product (some AO Smith hot water heaters were mentioned in those reviews). For many home owners, checking the condition of the anode rod is not an easy task at all and many would need to pay a plumber to do the work. The cost of that service can really add up over the years and make the cost of this $150 product seen trivial. An impact wrench is almost a necessity for this job as wrenching with a cheater bar can easily rotate the whole hot water heater. You really need to tie down the hot water heater with straps and have a helper hold the hot water heater in place if you're going to use a wrench with cheater bar. A competent DIY person with all the proper tools who stays on top of all their appliances on a regular basis and does not have a problem with sulfur smelling hot water could get by without this product. But for those not in that group it is a viable solution for addressing the need to properly maintain their not water heater...in my opinion, of course. 😊
I just put some food grade Hydrogen Peroxide in my water softener brine tank the did a manual regeneration and it eliminated the smell on my new hot water tank. This will also clean the resin beads in your softener. Hydrogen Peroxide will not harm the resin I am told but depending on your water usage you may have to repeat it again. I am not sure if the Corro Protec will still protect the tank as well as the original anode rod.
Hello !
I thought about putting H2O2 in the tank as well, but you would still need to continue adding it every 1-3 months depending on water usage. I did not want to keep opening the tank just to add the peroxide. So far, the corro protec is working with no issues. It has been three years now, I believe. I will keep you posted. :)
Nice!
Will the Cheaper Powered anode rods that they sell on Amazon work just as well as the More expensive "double the price" units Corro-Protec sells . I have not found a compare video on these different powered anodes
Hi and thanks for watching. That’s a great question. Unfortunately, I don’t have an answer for that. I have learned from my years of experience, you very much get what you pay for and later on end up buying the more pricier one, thus paying for more than what you would have initially spent in the beginning. I am not making any money for corro protec device. What can tell you is the one I have now has been working flawlessly from time I installed to present day. I guess time will tell :).
Do u have a water softner too??? With the corro-protect, aren’t u suppose to remove it every year to inspect it?? If u have to remove it to check it, then why not just put a new anode Rod every year? Like an aluminum-zinc Rod? I’m having the same issue and trying to figure out what I should do.
Did u chlorinate ur water since it smelled before changing the Rod? Or just changing to the corro-protect was sufficient to get rid of the smell?? Thanks for any help or advice!!!!!!!
Hello, and thanks for watching. A water softener will not change the outcome of your water smelling like sulfur. You can put a new anode rod, aluminum, to your water heater, but sincerely, I have too much on my plate to remember to change the ride every so often. you can drop chlorine into your well which may help to some degree, But, regardless, you still have to run all your faucets to get the chlorine out as it is undrinkable and you may ruin your clothes if you’re doing laundry. The New Anode Rod I installed has not failed since it was placed.
Another option, is pour place hydrogen peroxide into your water heater, however, this only last about 2 to 3 months until you have to do it again.
I am more of a once and done type, and this seems to be the best option after doing diligent research.
I hope this helps and good luck.
In my earlier videos, I also installed a De-scaler that is also downstream from the water heater. This helps with the scaling process that does occur in well water.
I am getting a smell the first time I open the water after I run the water the smell is gone.. I have city supplied water and I am considering changing the anode rod. I hope it helps..
I have a family member with the same issue as well. you may get away with just changing the anode rod rather than using the corro protec. Let me know how it turns out
Use an aluminum anode if you have sulphur in your water. That is the tried and true PROVEN solution. Most tanks come stock with a MAGNESIUM anode which doesn't play nice with sulphur rich well water.
Teflon needs to be stretched tight so that it conforms to the threads otherwise as you wind it and it will just push the Teflon up and off! And wind the Teflon in the direction that the plug is gonna screw into the tank so clockwise!
Thank you!
Is the rod still working for you? I have the same problem along with rust coming out of my tank
Hello John. That smell was putrid when we first moved in. To date, the rod is working well and no foul smell with the hot water. Hope this helps. Be sure to grab the right size for your tank! Thanks for watching!
@@AJDIYNetwork Or simply use an aluminum anode if you have sulphur in your water.
Almost a year later now. Is the egg smell still gone?
Absolutely. No smell, thank god!
Use an aluminum anode if you have sulphur in your water. That is the tried and true PROVEN solution that works with no power.
What if my hot water tank doesnt have a rod? I didnt see one on the top of my tank
Would love to see a pic of it. Most if not all tanks should have a rod to prevent the tank from braking down. What brand is it?
I have a Smart 40 Indirect Fired Water Heater. All stainless steel interior. No anode rod. No parts to rust. Best purchase I ever made.
@salatiello1956 I’d have to look into that…. But definitely something I would purchase if this one craps out.
@@AJDIYNetworkAt about 2000 bucks for the 40 gallon / 2500 for the 60 gallon, I imagine you will only be doing the "looking" 🙂
@@ainttakenanyshit or spring for a $20 aluminum anode for your steel tank like most people with sulphur water? lol
Maybe you did a lot of the tougher work off camera, your rod came off so easy. I have one that is about 10 years old , and I had trouble . It eventually came off after over a week soaking with WD40 and the electric impact finally did it. I almost had to borrow an air impact to get the 200 lb ? torque needed the weaker electric cannot supply.
Hey Tony. I’m happy you were able to get it out. What you saw is what I did as it happened. The heater was only less than three years old when I removed the rod.
i had success with old anodes by striking the top with a large hammer to break the rust in the threads. Best thing is to take them out when the tank is new and apply teflon tape.
A Powered Anode is called an ICCP devise (induced current cathodic protection). Its purpose is to supply the tank with electrons to prevent interior corrosion of the tank and nothing more. It is the removal of the aluminum/magnesium anode that stops hot water odor, not the powered anode.
If your well head has not been sanitized in years or if you keep the tanks temperature around 120 degrees, you will still have the odor. If you turn your main tanks temp to 130 degrees, the heat will kill the incoming sulfate bacteria instantly and the odor associated with it.
I have been selling ICCP systems (powered anode rod) for years and periodically, homeowners email me when they run into this problem. 130 degrees will fix it 98% of the time.
I appreciate that! That darn smell is a nuisance. Originally, the smell was gone, but now and then I have a hint of it from time to time. I will check the temperatures. Thanks for your time to write this up!
Now you just need to get some heat into that house. (ie. hot breath in a very cold environment)
Thanks for watching. Hope it helps. I was actually in my garage. Unfortunately, it’s not heated……. Yet :)
Rotten egg/Sulfur Smell is gone….
and so will your tank steel now that there's no anode. Use an aluminum anode if you have sulphur in your water.
@@thedavesofourlives1 There is an anode - titanium one...
Nothing on a hot water heater is as tight as an anode rod.😅
I would HIGHLY recommend that you DON’T activate the pressure relief valve. There is a chance that the valve will not re-seat, and then you have to replace it.
Good luck! 😉
Thanks for the info. Heater is working just fine.
Exactly.... What he said....
and risk your tank exploding? If it won't close, it (the PRV) was due for replacement anyway. Another trick is using vinegar or muriatic acid to dissolve the deposits and re-install.
Fortunately I have enough clearance. Oh shit
Awesome! If inhad the 80 gallon tall tank, it definately would have been a challenge. Good luck!