If you’re going to cut multiple sheets what I did is use a laminate blade and turned it to the reverse side. Circular saw and went really slow, worked great, I cut 5 at a time. Obviously a plastic blade would be best but I couldn’t find one so reversing the saw blade worked for me.
instead of using a circular saw to cut this plastic I would recommend using a magic marker to mark the length then using very large tin snips to cut one sheet at a time by hand... the saw blade can tear up the plastic easily
I apply a couple layers of tape and draw my cut line on top of the tape. I then cut on the line using a thin kerf saw blade intended for laminate veneers. The tape makes for a clean cut.
I’m installing the panels on my pergola. Question I have is when I screw in the fasteners should it be in closure strip or should it be penetrating the purlin?
@@tanderson7 keeping panels aligned and square was tricky. I thought they would space themselves properly. By the time I noticed it was too late. Chalk line helps?
@@fightswithspirits915 Easier with 2 people. Tape or screw horizontal & vertical closure strips in proper alignment - using small piece of panel for guidance to keep everything aligned straight. Best I could do, worked fairly well. Instructions here and manual certainly wasn't help.
Extending a roof line to cover a outdoor kitchen area. So assume I'd have to remove the last row of screws first to add the new panels ? Do you guys even look to answer these questions we have ?
So its interesting how none of the videos including this one do not show the pre drilling. Why? Because its incredibly time consuming and I mean time consuming and depending on where you chose to do it dangerous. Right now I'm installing the very ones in this video. Here's what I'm learning , if you decide to pre drill with the sheets on the roofing, it's dangerous because you're either on a ladder applying force to areas you have to reach out to. If you decide to get on the roofing structure, well that's enough said. Now if you get the enclosures suntuf sells that's even more pre drill time because if you go through the plastic bracket with the 1/4 inch drill bit the hole is too big for the bolt now and you're sol. So you either mark the hole area, pull it down and drill then put it back up or do what I was describing earlier. So it can be dangerous and very time consuming to get these panels up correctly. We really should be better youtube stewards of what we put in our community.
A valid point made by you. I am about to install these very same panels as well. I am curious as to what you found was the best way. Right now, I don't see any better option than marking the holes and taking the panel back down to drill them. A process I'd rather not do but like you said I can't afford to mangle all the plastic brackets. You've likely saved me some time and stress already just by pointing this out but like I said, I thought I would pick your brain to see if you figured out a better way having recently installed these yourself.
Hi Matt, what I ended up doing was while the panel was laying on the bracket, I marked a spot on the panel with a sharpey where I wanted to drill then slid underneath the panel between it and the bracket a small thin pirce of wood I could drill on so when the bit broke through the panel it hit the wood under it and I'd stop drilling. My piece of wood was long enough that I could do 5 spots at a time. Hope this helps
the store I bought from used wooden brackets or closure strips so I just stood up there with 3 different drills, one for the pilot hole for the screw, one for the hole in the polycarb panel, and one for the driver bit. I also conscripted one or more of my kids to pass me tools as needed. Cost was $20 per 2' x 8' polycarb panel, $4 per 6' wooden closure strip $9 per box of 100 fancy screws. Hope this is helpful to someone. Also worth noting was which way to install the panel. I had my first panel already in but with label facing down. All the overlaps would have been on the downside of the corrugations increasing my chances for leaks and wind catching the edges as I didn't do sides so no side flashing.
I followed their directions to the letter and my roof leaks at all the holes. They say not to tighten down the screws where they will dimple the plastic so I was extra careful about that, but now it leaks like crazy..any suggestions? I did pre drill
HELLO how and were to order the plastic strips PLEASE ?? they do not import them to Australia , but happy to have my niece who lives in Princeton ( NJ ) USA to order them for me and organise to send them to me in Australia ... please help me out ..good 'day from Oz land , Catherine
I purchased some of the panels which are uv protected on one side only , I need to uv protect both sides bc I am using them as a fence. I know you can special order them with uv protection on both sides, but is there a product I can use to treat theother side?
Debra Fisher Hi Debra. I have watched several different videos on different brands of corrugated plastic roofing and a minimum pitch of 1-1/2 x 12 is pretty consistent for rain/snow to slide off. Seems very shallow to me as someone who has framed many a roof. I live in Idaho and in our mountain locations with heavy snowfall, they would suggest a minimum pitch of 8 x 12 for a metal corrugated roof. If you receive heavy snowfall, I would stick with an 8 x 12 pitch. Just my 2 cents worth
You only need 2 screws to hold it in place until you attach panels which will screw them down further. Here it says to screw down closure strips. Call in tech support and they don't - just attach via panel through strip into purlin.
Hello where can i buy the plastic strips ?? i am in Australia, but they do not have them ? can I order them in the USA , thank you very much, my sister would like some in France too
Any holes in the valleys will result in leakage. On the other hand, a hole in the crown (with rubber gasket) will shed water into the valley and not leak.
@@sleddy01 I guess that means you can tell that I have experience building things? Otherwise you would be an idiot to not see the foolishness of the original comment.
I dont now if this channel is moderated, but Ihave a qustion. I want to use corrugated panels but the roof area is not square, how to you mount the end of the panels to a angled roof line?
Assuming you use a polycarbonate corrugated sheet like Suntuf then the main difference between the panels are rigidity, aesthetics, and insulating factor. The structured twinwall sheets are more rigid and offer an R Value (which varies by thickness and number of walls). Unless you require the R value you are most likely choosing based on which look you like best and the ease of installaltion. In my opinion the corrugated installation is a bit simpler. Typically there are more color options in the corrugated sheet as well.
I like the idea of letting light through but does it also let heat true? Of idea of having a roof over may patio is to keep the sun and heat away so.... will this product do the trick or there are better options out there? Also, cost wise, how does this compare to alternatives when it comes to material?
We have used this product on a few of our decks and the clear panels definitely let a lot of light in and while it’s nice to have a clear view, it can feel like a greenhouse. On the roofs that we used the darker colours like sea green or yellow the it’s much cooler. Sea green was our favourite as it gave the best balance of light and heat.
I was wondering the same thing. leaning towards better safe than sorry. a year from now I will not remember the extra dollars or time but I will definitely notice if there is leaking because I didn't bother with the silicone.
@@jamesharris8583 I had leaks immediately after installation so I had to climb up and back out every screw to put a bit of DAP 230 silicone under every washer. I made sure it was enough to create a complete ring around the set washer. There was a huge rainstorm the next day and no leaks. I highly recommend doing this as you go. Otherwise it seems like a good product.
Hi, Andrea. Thanks for your interest. While Suntuf and Suntop can both work very well as under deck ceilings, Palruf or Sun n' Rain are probably the most appropriate due to cost. In an under deck application, there is little concern about heat build-up (provided the under deck area is open and well-ventilated), and there shouldn't be any other concerns about things like impact resistance-something that the other two products excel at. There are a number of ways that you could apply our product in an under deck application, but it's important to consider drainage, and therefore you really should install the panels with a "slope." Here's a link to our DuoDeck™ under deck page so you can see one method of installation: www.palramamericas.com/Products/corrugated-accessories/DUODECK/. Also, here's a link to purchase the DuoDeck™ bracket on HomeDepot.com: www.homedepot.com/p/DuoDeck-2-1-4-in-x-7-3-4-in-Galvanized-Steel-Under-Deck-Bracket-96240/202439569?keyword=duodeck
Why drill holes? Self-tapping wood fasteners with waterproof washer would make installation a lot easier and provide a cleaner hole. Is there a problem with expansion?
yes. expansion is a given with these plastic panels. if holes are not bigger than the screws then you get dozens of hairline fractures all over and leaks to go with.
I failed to drill the recommended holes. It's amazing the amount of popping sounds heard when the morning sun first hits the panels and they begin to expand. The great amount of expansion actually results in the closure strip tabs breaking off; I find the busted tabs lying on the patio. Drill the recommended hole, and set your screw on a warm day in the full sun, taking care to center the screw in the hole for good coverage of the washer all around, not too tight, not too loose.
@@Chris.Brisson Do you drill the hole throught the closure strip also and use a longer screw to attach to underlying structure, or does the screw go into the closure strip only?
How do you seal along the vertical closure strips with butyl tape? They are not the same height as the horizontal ones, which seems like a design error.
I am building a shed and the roof will be a single pitch, flat style roof. The front side will be 8 feet high across the front, and 6 feet high across that back. How do I flash the front, higher peak? I am afraid water may run below the panels and into the shed. Thanks.
Hi Skizai87. We're having a little trouble visualizing what you would like to flash. Any chance you can email a simple sketch of your question to info@palramamericas.com, or perhaps more of a description (free-standing structure? How long is the slope? Are you planning a small overhang (e.g., 2"-3") on the "front of the structure? etc.). If we can't answer your question there, we'll arrange a phone call to learn more. Thanks.
Hi Vinesh. Suntuf panels can conform to an arch radius of 20-feet or greater. This is mentioned in our Suntuf Installation Guide (www.palramamericas.com/docs/upload/F409Suntuf_Install_Guide.pdf). If you're not sure what the radius is, I have created a new FAQ on our web site that provides a formula and a diagram showing how to gather the measurements used for the calculation formula (unfortunately, I can't post an image within this comment, so you'll have to view it on our site). The FAQ questions is titled "Is it possible to use Suntuf Corrugated Polycarbonate on a curved roof?" You'll find our FAQ's at: www.palramamericas.com/FAQ/
It is not recommended. Water typically runs through the low part of the channel when it rains so putting a fastener in this location increases the chance of a leak
I replaced the panels on my existing patio cover. The original owner made the cover on an angle so each panel needed a different cut. What is the best way to cut the panels while they are installed ? I want to make them all flush.
This depends on your snow load requirements please check the brochure available for download from the website as it has snow load tables with typical spans
@@EM-fi2qg I believe the official brochure says a maximum of 32 in on center. Again you can double check that if you look at the website / download the installation brochure. Unofficially I do know some people who went to 48 in on center but you need to be concerned then that the panel will start to sag under its own weight because it's not supported frequently enough and/or wind could begin to cause vibration because of the larger spans Under the better safe than sorry methodology I don't recommend exceeding manufacturers recommendations.
What is your recommendation for screw spacing when connecting the horizontal closure strips to the purlins with the !' flat head screws? Every valley, every other, etc?
You only need enough screws to tack the closure strip in place while you install the panels. Ultimately the screw that you use to install the panel will tie the panel to the closure strip to the purlin and hold everything together.
Snow load is dependent on the support structure framing. Generally speaking the panels are strong enough to support significant snow load but you need to make sure the structure itself will handle the load.
Yes very weatherproof and snow proof as long as you install properly. I live in Canada and we have used this product for many years with many rainfalls and snowfalls without failure. If you get snow in your area I would recommend building the pitch of your roof a little bit more steep so that the snow will slid off.
Are screws supposed to penetrate into the purlin, or just into the closure strip? 3:40 Are 1/4" holes drilled into the closure strip? 3:22
If you’re going to cut multiple sheets what I did is use a laminate blade and turned it to the reverse side. Circular saw and went really slow, worked great, I cut 5 at a time.
Obviously a plastic blade would be best but I couldn’t find one so reversing the saw blade worked for me.
instead of using a circular saw to cut this plastic I would recommend using a magic marker to mark the length then using very large tin snips to cut one sheet at a time by hand... the saw blade can tear up the plastic easily
the key is a saw with a blade meant for "plastic"....if you're using a metal blade of course it's going to tear the plastic.
I apply a couple layers of tape and draw my cut line on top of the tape. I then cut on the line using a thin kerf saw blade intended for laminate veneers. The tape makes for a clean cut.
Reverse your saw blade.
I’m installing the panels on my pergola. Question I have is when I screw in the fasteners should it be in closure strip or should it be penetrating the purlin?
Notice how you didn't get an answer.
Screw through panel through closure strip into purlin. Use 2" Woodtite screw.
these make great ceiling panels in shops as well.
Are any roofing fasteners required to be installed along the vertical closure strips in between the ends of each horizontal closure strip?
Purlins are about complete. Almost time to let the metal hit the meat. I got installation pre-jitters.
Howd the install go?
@@tanderson7 keeping panels aligned and square was tricky. I thought they would space themselves properly. By the time I noticed it was too late. Chalk line helps?
@@fightswithspirits915 Easier with 2 people. Tape or screw horizontal & vertical closure strips in proper alignment - using small piece of panel for guidance to keep everything aligned straight. Best I could do, worked fairly well. Instructions here and manual certainly wasn't help.
@@TurboMountTV thanks. Makes sense. roofing not even close to laying tile. Gotta plan out the roof as you suggest or have some form of spacing jig.
Extending a roof line to cover a outdoor kitchen area. So assume I'd have to remove the last row of screws first to add the new panels ? Do you guys even look to answer these questions we have ?
So its interesting how none of the videos including this one do not show the pre drilling. Why? Because its incredibly time consuming and I mean time consuming and depending on where you chose to do it dangerous. Right now I'm installing the very ones in this video. Here's what I'm learning , if you decide to pre drill with the sheets on the roofing, it's dangerous because you're either on a ladder applying force to areas you have to reach out to. If you decide to get on the roofing structure, well that's enough said. Now if you get the enclosures suntuf sells that's even more pre drill time because if you go through the plastic bracket with the 1/4 inch drill bit the hole is too big for the bolt now and you're sol. So you either mark the hole area, pull it down and drill then put it back up or do what I was describing earlier. So it can be dangerous and very time consuming to get these panels up correctly. We really should be better youtube stewards of what we put in our community.
A valid point made by you. I am about to install these very same panels as well. I am curious as to what you found was the best way. Right now, I don't see any better option than marking the holes and taking the panel back down to drill them. A process I'd rather not do but like you said I can't afford to mangle all the plastic brackets. You've likely saved me some time and stress already just by pointing this out but like I said, I thought I would pick your brain to see if you figured out a better way having recently installed these yourself.
Hi Matt, what I ended up doing was while the panel was laying on the bracket, I marked a spot on the panel with a sharpey where I wanted to drill then slid underneath the panel between it and the bracket a small thin pirce of wood I could drill on so when the bit broke through the panel it hit the wood under it and I'd stop drilling. My piece of wood was long enough that I could do 5 spots at a time. Hope this helps
the store I bought from used wooden brackets or closure strips so I just stood up there with 3 different drills, one for the pilot hole for the screw, one for the hole in the polycarb panel, and one for the driver bit. I also conscripted one or more of my kids to pass me tools as needed. Cost was $20 per 2' x 8' polycarb panel, $4 per 6' wooden closure strip $9 per box of 100 fancy screws. Hope this is helpful to someone. Also worth noting was which way to install the panel. I had my first panel already in but with label facing down. All the overlaps would have been on the downside of the corrugations increasing my chances for leaks and wind catching the edges as I didn't do sides so no side flashing.
Self tapping screws with the washer pre attached. And go
I followed their directions to the letter and my roof leaks at all the holes. They say not to tighten down the screws where they will dimple the plastic so I was extra careful about that, but now it leaks like crazy..any suggestions? I did pre drill
has Suntuf never heard of gable rake flashing? How are you expected to finish the ends of the gable?
How many 1" flat head screws should we use for each horizontal closure strip?
Can you use 2 X 4 for rafters spanning 10 - 11 feet with no snow ?
Overlap panels 1 or 2 ridges??
Thanks,
HELLO how and were to order the plastic strips PLEASE ?? they do not import them to Australia , but happy to have my niece who lives in Princeton ( NJ ) USA to order them for me and organise to send them to me in Australia ... please help me out ..good 'day from Oz land , Catherine
I purchased some of the panels which are uv protected on one side only , I need to uv protect both sides bc I am using them as a fence. I know you can special order them with uv protection on both sides, but is there a product I can use to treat theother side?
We really want to use this product but need to know the very least amount of pitch needed to have snow slide off.
Debra Fisher Hi Debra. I have watched several different videos on different brands of corrugated plastic roofing and a minimum pitch of 1-1/2 x 12 is pretty consistent for rain/snow to slide off. Seems very shallow to me as someone who has framed many a roof. I live in Idaho and in our mountain locations with heavy snowfall, they would suggest a minimum pitch of 8 x 12 for a metal corrugated roof. If you receive heavy snowfall, I would stick with an 8 x 12 pitch. Just my 2 cents worth
Are the plastic horizontal and vertical closures still available? My retailers only have them in wood materials.
You can order online. I've read you really don't want to use the wooden ones.
Do I need to buy a silicone sealand for plastic roof panels ?
uuuh.. What is the flat screw spacing in the valleys on the horizontal closing strips? 1 screw every 6" ..12" ..16"?
Did you find an answer? I'm going with 12 inches since the panel will actually be fastened to the purlins anyway.
You only need 2 screws to hold it in place until you attach panels which will screw them down further.
Here it says to screw down closure strips. Call in tech support and they don't - just attach via panel through strip into purlin.
Hello where can i buy the plastic strips ?? i am in Australia, but they do not have them ? can I order them in the USA , thank you very much, my sister would like some in France too
Hi Catherine, try this link, these are currently available in America. thd.co/3fsARvs
Why are panel screws placed on the crowns of the panel rather than the valley? Why not give the length of the washered panel screws?
Any holes in the valleys will result in leakage. On the other hand, a hole in the crown (with rubber gasket) will shed water into the valley and not leak.
Charles Stirling. Either you are an idiot or have practically no experience building things. SMH
@@RobertJohnson-th2yf No question about which you are.
@@sleddy01 I guess that means you can tell that I have experience building things? Otherwise you would be an idiot to not see the foolishness of the original comment.
@@RobertJohnson-th2yf you really like insulting people. does it make you feel good?
I cant do it myself. How much will I pay someone for labor only to replace only 2 of the sheets? I am here in Sydney.
I would do it for a case of beer! 😉
I will for FREE if you provide airfare form US.
What size 1 inch wood screw?
Huh?
How the hell do you know where to screw the screws so they hit that plastic ridge strip correctly?
Well there is this tool called tape measure...it is used in anything men builds, look it up!
@@fireyourrocketts and women!
@@karencase6639 and transgender!
How did you drill the overlap parts? You use a board for all of parts?
Anybody know the if the panels will make a lot of noise during a down pour? Trying to figure out if its just better to use traditional shingles roof.
Yes you do get a fair amount of noise, so weigh out your pros and cons of having a nice roof that lets more sunlight in vs noise from raindrops.
I dont now if this channel is moderated, but Ihave a qustion. I want to use corrugated panels but the roof area is not square, how to you mount the end of the panels to a angled roof line?
To apply underneath both parts ?
I'm building a varrada in the off the house should I use coragateted thin plastic sheets for the roof or 10ml thick twin wall clear roof sheets .
Assuming you use a polycarbonate corrugated sheet like Suntuf then the main difference between the panels are rigidity, aesthetics, and insulating factor. The structured twinwall sheets are more rigid and offer an R Value (which varies by thickness and number of walls). Unless you require the R value you are most likely choosing based on which look you like best and the ease of installaltion. In my opinion the corrugated installation is a bit simpler. Typically there are more color options in the corrugated sheet as well.
Dlos Ok 2 chikitines Ok 3 2 Plato's 3 Barnisdale Evergreen Ok mamy - Illinois Ok mamy. Ok MehmZz
Can Suntop be installed over decking to achieve a lower slope?
I like the idea of letting light through but does it also let heat true? Of idea of having a roof over may patio is to keep the sun and heat away so.... will this product do the trick or there are better options out there? Also, cost wise, how does this compare to alternatives when it comes to material?
Phillip, thanks dude.
We have used this product on a few of our decks and the clear panels definitely let a lot of light in and while it’s nice to have a clear view, it can feel like a greenhouse. On the roofs that we used the darker colours like sea green or yellow the it’s much cooler. Sea green was our favourite as it gave the best balance of light and heat.
what size are the purlins 2x2?
2X3. 11 months too late to help ya.
Can I buy direct from your guys?
Suntuf printed instructions indicate a silicone sealant is needed but it was not shown in this video. Is sealant optional?
I was wondering the same thing. leaning towards better safe than sorry. a year from now I will not remember the extra dollars or time but I will definitely notice if there is leaking because I didn't bother with the silicone.
@@jamesharris8583 I had leaks immediately after installation so I had to climb up and back out every screw to put a bit of DAP 230 silicone under every washer. I made sure it was enough to create a complete ring around the set washer. There was a huge rainstorm the next day and no leaks. I highly recommend doing this as you go. Otherwise it seems like a good product.
Would this work well for an under deck ceiling? How would you modify the installation?
Hi, Andrea. Thanks for your interest. While Suntuf and Suntop can both work very well as under deck ceilings, Palruf or Sun n' Rain are probably the most appropriate due to cost. In an under deck application, there is little concern about heat build-up (provided the under deck area is open and well-ventilated), and there shouldn't be any other concerns about things like impact resistance-something that the other two products excel at. There are a number of ways that you could apply our product in an under deck application, but it's important to consider drainage, and therefore you really should install the panels with a "slope." Here's a link to our DuoDeck™ under deck page so you can see one method of installation: www.palramamericas.com/Products/corrugated-accessories/DUODECK/. Also, here's a link to purchase the DuoDeck™ bracket on HomeDepot.com: www.homedepot.com/p/DuoDeck-2-1-4-in-x-7-3-4-in-Galvanized-Steel-Under-Deck-Bracket-96240/202439569?keyword=duodeck
Absolutely in process at the moment. Same basics apply. Working overhead a bit more challenging but the perfect product for under deck install.
Those rafters literally look they are just sitting on front beam.
Would like to know proper way of fastening them.
Why drill holes? Self-tapping wood fasteners with waterproof washer would make installation a lot easier and provide a cleaner hole. Is there a problem with expansion?
yes. expansion is a given with these plastic panels. if holes are not bigger than the screws then you get dozens of hairline fractures all over and leaks to go with.
I failed to drill the recommended holes. It's amazing the amount of popping sounds heard when the morning sun first hits the panels and they begin to expand. The great amount of expansion actually results in the closure strip tabs breaking off; I find the busted tabs lying on the patio. Drill the recommended hole, and set your screw on a warm day in the full sun, taking care to center the screw in the hole for good coverage of the washer all around, not too tight, not too loose.
@@Chris.Brisson Do you drill the hole throught the closure strip also and use a longer screw to attach to underlying structure, or does the screw go into the closure strip only?
@@Snipely yes, you need to screw into the underlying structure.
@@Chris.Brisson hmm, that changes things... then it's not critical to avoid the closure strip when drilling the expansion hole?
How many years before they turn yellow and brittle?
just replacing my roof, got 27yrs,
How do you seal along the vertical closure strips with butyl tape? They are not the same height as the horizontal ones, which seems like a design error.
I need custon size
19 ft long
I have seen all sorts of lean to sheds but a stand alone. How do you flash it?
If you are talking about a stand alone shed with a simple gable roof using our Suntuf or Suntop panels there are ridge cap flashings available.
I am building a shed and the roof will be a single pitch, flat style roof. The front side will be 8 feet high across the front, and 6 feet high across that back. How do I flash the front, higher peak? I am afraid water may run below the panels and into the shed. Thanks.
Hi Skizai87. We're having a little trouble visualizing what you would like to flash. Any chance you can email a simple sketch of your question to info@palramamericas.com, or perhaps more of a description (free-standing structure? How long is the slope? Are you planning a small overhang (e.g., 2"-3") on the "front of the structure? etc.). If we can't answer your question there, we'll arrange a phone call to learn more. Thanks.
How do you water seal wall side?
Use flashing. You can find it at any home improvement store, in the roofing dept.
Flashing and caulk the seam.
i want to use polycarbonate roofing for an outdoor kitchen..want a curved roof..is it possible with this material?
Hi Vinesh. Suntuf panels can conform to an arch radius of 20-feet or greater. This is mentioned in our Suntuf Installation Guide (www.palramamericas.com/docs/upload/F409Suntuf_Install_Guide.pdf). If you're not sure what the radius is, I have created a new FAQ on our web site that provides a formula and a diagram showing how to gather the measurements used for the calculation formula (unfortunately, I can't post an image within this comment, so you'll have to view it on our site). The FAQ questions is titled "Is it possible to use Suntuf Corrugated Polycarbonate on a curved roof?" You'll find our FAQ's at: www.palramamericas.com/FAQ/
Is this a bad choice for gambrel roofs?
thanks Beautiful Good job
H
i can i fasten the sheeting to the wood in the lower grove of the panel
It is not recommended. Water typically runs through the low part of the channel when it rains so putting a fastener in this location increases the chance of a leak
Yes, you can just use the 3/4 in self tapping screws with the rubber washer worked for me no leaks.
@@koshnaranek2317 where do you live? Do you get lots of rain?
@@Jason-bk1xs Yes it usually comes down really hard and fast and no leaking whatsoever.
How do you overlap?🙄
What length should the Woodtite fasteners be?
2 Inch fastenres in a roof application. Crown fasten the panels. on a wall you can use a 1" fastener and valley fasten.
Jeremy Cohen Hoffing greenhouse floor
I replaced the panels on my existing patio cover. The original owner made the cover on an angle so each panel needed a different cut. What is the best way to cut the panels while they are installed ? I want to make them all flush.
Used a skill saw with a tacked 1x4 as a guide, came out great.
Do you have any videos on installing flashing ? Thanks Jay
How far apart can the horizontal rafters be?
This depends on your snow load requirements please check the brochure available for download from the website as it has snow load tables with typical spans
@@Timrin1 Thanks for the reply. Zero snow load. Southern California.
@@EM-fi2qg I believe the official brochure says a maximum of 32 in on center. Again you can double check that if you look at the website / download the installation brochure. Unofficially I do know some people who went to 48 in on center but you need to be concerned then that the panel will start to sag under its own weight because it's not supported frequently enough and/or wind could begin to cause vibration because of the larger spans Under the better safe than sorry methodology I don't recommend exceeding manufacturers recommendations.
@@Timrin1 Thanks for the info and taking the time to reply. I didn't realize the info was on their site.
What is your recommendation for screw spacing when connecting the horizontal closure strips to the purlins with the !' flat head screws? Every valley, every other, etc?
You only need enough screws to tack the closure strip in place while you install the panels. Ultimately the screw that you use to install the panel will tie the panel to the closure strip to the purlin and hold everything together.
weather proof? Snow?
Snow load is dependent on the support structure framing. Generally speaking the panels are strong enough to support significant snow load but you need to make sure the structure itself will handle the load.
Yes very weatherproof and snow proof as long as you install properly. I live in Canada and we have used this product for many years with many rainfalls and snowfalls without failure. If you get snow in your area I would recommend building the pitch of your roof a little bit more steep so that the snow will slid off.
Ridiculous, you can buy the panels at homedepot but you can't buy any of the finishing parts, like roof caps and flashing. Deal breaker.
I just looked, they do have roof caps and flashing.
@@debm3391 not where I am from they do not, Las Vegas
you can order them online and ship-to-store
I had to buy the roof cap on line. The man at HD sold me the side flashing which he called the roof cap.
Saint james
Yes, spend $1500 for the plastic roof, edges then some kid hits a foul ball and it lands on top of it and cracks it.
You were obviously too lazy to do even the slightest bit of research. th-cam.com/video/b5JhQVsocBE/w-d-xo.html
@@RobertJohnson-th2yf It's always the pompous ass hats who make the knee jerk negative comments, they love to make themselves look stupid lol.
@@Troy5150 $1500? Is Dhi buying enough of this to place over a 1000 sq. foot home? LOL
These panels are tougher than you think they are. Golf ball size hail that's another story lol.
After 15 years in the Southern California sun, my panels finally became brittle enough for the neighbor's foul ball to crack a panel.
Why is this product made so flimsy, you can't walk on it.
I walked on mine stepping on the 1×4 horizontal boards no problem.
Because they are made of plastic.
This video is worthless, especially from Em manufacturer they don’t go into enough detail on the length of the screws
also he sounds kind of mad the whole time.