Fantastic quick landing from 9:30! I tried this maneuver too, of course not from this height and the wings had such a grumpy sound as if it were a motorized plane. I really liked it!
@@afilos thanks for the tip, don’t have a food saver yet, but I do have one of those bags that you’ve shown on the video, so will have to give that a shot first most likely
@@afilos Do You use the carbon roving 1600 tex in simple or double way on one side wing surface? I see that You use it on both (top and bottom) wing's surface. Because I see that is wide enough. I got 1610 tow tex, it seems to be thinner than You use in this video. Can I take household paper under and above the galssed wing surface in the vacuum bag not to glued the GF to the bag? The pressure will be good in this way or am I just use paper under the bottom surface? Thank You!
@@goldenfish77 this is what I used shop1.r-g.de/en/art/205105, one on top and one on bottom. when you apply it, it tends to spread a bit. For the vacuum, use paper only under the wing and if you can, double the mylars under the wing so the paper won't leave footprints from its texture on the wing. Epoxy won't stick on the bag, so don't worry.
@@afilos I am sorry for my questions but did You take any glue under the carbon ribbon or just under the glass fabric ribbon you put on? Do kitchen paper towels need to be placed in the vacuum bag under the elements to absorb the spilled resin? Anyway I like these building method, I hope that I can build my gliders with this technic and I can see the performance growth on my gliders. Your procedure seems very promising!
@@goldenfish77the kitchen paper is placed under the wing to help the vacuum pull air. If you don't use paper the vacuum won't work. The CF tow is placed without epoxy, but before you apply the FG skin, you should take care to wet it with epoxy very good, like dripping epoxy on top so it can fully soak. The rest of the skin is done normally with the roller.
Excellent! I am about to start the construction of this model but with the design of the hawk (wings with rounded ends) I have doubts with the reinforcement that you put in 7:21 will it be absolutely necessary? The fiberglass I have is 48g (somewhat heavier) otherwise I would have to place carbon fiber rods to reinforce it (I did not find that carbon fiber tape you use) in the launches, note that the wing is subjected to efforts important when launching? Thank you!
Great! In my opinion, a 1 m dlg needs carbon reinforcement. I wouldn't want to launch and see my plane wrap in half or break, after having invested in time building it. You can always try building without CF reinforcement, but you will not be able to launch it full power. If you don't have CF tow, use at least CF rods, but you will have to place it top and bottom of the wings. My first 1m dlg was also built with 50g/m2 fibreglass, and I used the same CF reinforcement.
@@afilos Very kind to answer! I really appreciate your opinion, I think I'm going to put CF rods in the wing then, it's true, it takes time to build everything and it would be unfortunate to see it fall apart in a launch. Thank you ! best regards
I'm a huge fan of your building process. I put to the highest level the use of common tools and materials to achieve our RC hobby. What brand of vacuum cloth bag do you use the one I bought always ends up to leak - or - do you apply vacuum regularly during epoxy curing ?
Thank you! Its not a leak, try placing under the valve 2-3 towels and under your pieces some paper. This helps the vacuum pull all the air. I had the same issue and this fixed it.
hi mate, your video is amazing, its very helpful, btw if we dont have plastic to isolate wing or tail after laminate with resin, how it would be? i mean i dont have the plastic bag and vacum to isolate laminate wing from oxygen.
If you do it without bagging, you will end up having a heavy plane and a rough surface, I would suggest finding the proper tools. Instead of plastic bag, you can use a vacuum food saver.
Thank you for all the great information. I have never used fiberglass before so this may be a dumb question...when you put the items in the bag and vacumn out the air, does this smooth out the epoxy surfaces? I am assuming this is better than letting the epoxy dry in the open air. Thanks , Doug
Thank you Doug! Vacuum is way better than open-air drying by all means. Use as little epoxy as possible, and do a set or two, of tails first to figure out the procedure. The finished surface will copy the mylar. If your mylar (the side that is in contact with the epoxy) is shiny, you will get a shiny finish. If it's a dull surface, you'll get a dull finish.
Just up to it, overlapping the LEs fibreglass strip, but not going under or over. The LE is being glassed by the fibreglass strip applied before the top and bottom wing layers.
my fber glass cloth is very hard to handle ( it shapeshifts super weird which makes it very hard to get accurate cuts and strips like the ones you show, i was wondering if you have this issue and how you solve it or if your fiber glass is just different, thank youuu
Use a new blade and cut using a cutting mattress/board. Once you cut it, avoid moving the piece, especially pulling on the 45deg direction, because this will deform the shape. A new blade will normally solve the problem, I don't suggest cutting with scissors. My glass is 25g/m2 plain weave.
@@UnOmelettesimultaneously, both the mylar and the glass with extreme care 🙂. when you glass the wing spar, soak with epoxy thoroughly to avoid dry spots.
Hi. I have a quick question if I may; When you lay the various reinforcement pieces, spar carbon, etc do you bag and cure the items before adding the glass skin? Or do you layer the whole lot up at once and just bag and cure the whole thing in one operation? Thanks, Steve
All at once, this is why I use the spray glue to keep things in place until I apply the epoxy. Take care to fully wet the carbon tow before applying the GF, its a bit tricky and you might get a weak spot if not done carefully. In any case you can redo the bagging to repair any weak spots, before proceeding to the next steps.
@@afilos Awesome, thanks. I have an unbuilt ViCK dlg - if you heard of it - and as stock it's covered in tape. I didn't like the finish at all on the last one I built, so I might try glassing it using your instructions instead. Thanks again!
@@stevengreenhough4232 nice, it will be like day and night, the stiffness is unmatched compared to tape, and lighter. Just keep the wing cores and do everything else, my way! 😁
Thanks alot! That was the video I was waiting for for so long. Now we now every detail. Do you not find it necessary to apply a second spar on the bottom of the wing which would take the pulling forces when the wing is bent upwards?
@@goldenfish77No, I don't use hard carbon, because it doesn't follow the wing's profile. Using this CF tow allows for a smooth top surface finish. The strength is more than enough !
with slow curing epoxy, something like this static.rcgroups.net/forums/attachments/8/4/5/1/7/7/a14432625-36-Screenshot_2020-12-21-14-43-11-425_com.android.chrome.jpg or this www.fibermaxcomposites.com/shop/epoxy-systembrr6780-h6733brslow-p-100206.html?cPath=26
Fantastic quick landing from 9:30! I tried this maneuver too, of course not from this height and the wings had such a grumpy sound as if it were a motorized plane. I really liked it!
this is awesome, looks simple and effective. will definitely have to try this.
Great! If you are bagging wings or other stuff you'd better use a foodsaver bagging system, it's much easier and holds vacuum better.
@@afilos thanks for the tip, don’t have a food saver yet, but I do have one of those bags that you’ve shown on the video, so will have to give that a shot first most likely
So very informative and helpful. Thank you for taking the time.
No problem, thank you!
Thank you for the detailed steps Antonis. 👍🏽
Welcome!
Your works are awesome in this hobby! I congrat You!
Thank you!
@@afilos Do You use the carbon roving 1600 tex in simple or double way on one side wing surface? I see that You use it on both (top and bottom) wing's surface. Because I see that is wide enough. I got 1610 tow tex, it seems to be thinner than You use in this video.
Can I take household paper under and above the galssed wing surface in the vacuum bag not to glued the GF to the bag? The pressure will be good in this way or am I just use paper under the bottom surface? Thank You!
@@goldenfish77 this is what I used shop1.r-g.de/en/art/205105, one on top and one on bottom. when you apply it, it tends to spread a bit.
For the vacuum, use paper only under the wing and if you can, double the mylars under the wing so the paper won't leave footprints from its texture on the wing.
Epoxy won't stick on the bag, so don't worry.
@@afilos I am sorry for my questions but did You take any glue under the carbon ribbon or just under the glass fabric ribbon you put on?
Do kitchen paper towels need to be placed in the vacuum bag under the elements to absorb the spilled resin? Anyway I like these building method, I hope that I can build my gliders with this technic and I can see the performance growth on my gliders. Your procedure seems very promising!
@@goldenfish77the kitchen paper is placed under the wing to help the vacuum pull air. If you don't use paper the vacuum won't work.
The CF tow is placed without epoxy, but before you apply the FG skin, you should take care to wet it with epoxy very good, like dripping epoxy on top so it can fully soak. The rest of the skin is done normally with the roller.
Thank you for making a great video.
I hope you will continue to do so.
Thank you!
Excellent! I am about to start the construction of this model but with the design of the hawk (wings with rounded ends) I have doubts with the reinforcement that you put in 7:21 will it be absolutely necessary? The fiberglass I have is 48g (somewhat heavier) otherwise I would have to place carbon fiber rods to reinforce it (I did not find that carbon fiber tape you use) in the launches, note that the wing is subjected to efforts important when launching? Thank you!
Great! In my opinion, a 1 m dlg needs carbon reinforcement. I wouldn't want to launch and see my plane wrap in half or break, after having invested in time building it. You can always try building without CF reinforcement, but you will not be able to launch it full power.
If you don't have CF tow, use at least CF rods, but you will have to place it top and bottom of the wings.
My first 1m dlg was also built with 50g/m2 fibreglass, and I used the same CF reinforcement.
@@afilos Very kind to answer! I really appreciate your opinion, I think I'm going to put CF rods in the wing then, it's true, it takes time to build everything and it would be unfortunate to see it fall apart in a launch. Thank you ! best regards
I'm a huge fan of your building process.
I put to the highest level the use of common tools and materials to achieve our RC hobby.
What brand of vacuum cloth bag do you use the one I bought always ends up to leak - or - do you apply vacuum regularly during epoxy curing ?
Thank you!
Its not a leak, try placing under the valve 2-3 towels and under your pieces some paper. This helps the vacuum pull all the air. I had the same issue and this fixed it.
Also try pressing hard on the zipper while you close the bag
hi mate, your video is amazing, its very helpful, btw if we dont have plastic to isolate wing or tail after laminate with resin, how it would be? i mean i dont have the plastic bag and vacum to isolate laminate wing from oxygen.
If you do it without bagging, you will end up having a heavy plane and a rough surface, I would suggest finding the proper tools. Instead of plastic bag, you can use a vacuum food saver.
@@afilos oo, i see, thank you
Thank you for all the great information. I have never used fiberglass before so this may be a dumb question...when you put the items in the bag and vacumn out the air, does this smooth out the epoxy surfaces? I am assuming this is better than letting the epoxy dry in the open air. Thanks , Doug
Thank you Doug!
Vacuum is way better than open-air drying by all means. Use as little epoxy as possible, and do a set or two, of tails first to figure out the procedure.
The finished surface will copy the mylar. If your mylar (the side that is in contact with the epoxy) is shiny, you will get a shiny finish. If it's a dull surface, you'll get a dull finish.
@@afilos thank you for the great advice. This hobby has a learning curve, and you are a big help!
Excellent job. What fiberglass are you using. And where can I get it. Thanks
25g/m2, I buy it from here shop1.r-g.de/en/art/190100
@@afilos Thanks. ✌
Do you spray the paint scheme on the mylar and then it transfers under vacuum pressure to the GF?
Yes, it transfers to the surface because epoxy also sticks to the paint peeling the paint of the the mylar.
Great stuff! Thank you!@@afilos
Fantastic! Do the top and bottom glass skins go around the leading edge or just up to it?
Just up to it, overlapping the LEs fibreglass strip, but not going under or over. The LE is being glassed by the fibreglass strip applied before the top and bottom wing layers.
@@afilos awesome! I look forward to seeing the result! Thank you for your quick responses!
What type of paint are you using? enamel or acrylic ? Thank you
Acrylic.
my fber glass cloth is very hard to handle ( it shapeshifts super weird which makes it very hard to get accurate cuts and strips like the ones you show, i was wondering if you have this issue and how you solve it or if your fiber glass is just different, thank youuu
Use a new blade and cut using a cutting mattress/board. Once you cut it, avoid moving the piece, especially pulling on the 45deg direction, because this will deform the shape. A new blade will normally solve the problem, I don't suggest cutting with scissors. My glass is 25g/m2 plain weave.
@@afilos how do you place it on the mylar then ? Thats when i have to lift it off the table and it gets all deformed :,(
@@UnOmelettesimultaneously, both the mylar and the glass with extreme care 🙂. when you glass the wing spar, soak with epoxy thoroughly to avoid dry spots.
Hi. I have a quick question if I may; When you lay the various reinforcement pieces, spar carbon, etc do you bag and cure the items before adding the glass skin? Or do you layer the whole lot up at once and just bag and cure the whole thing in one operation?
Thanks, Steve
All at once, this is why I use the spray glue to keep things in place until I apply the epoxy. Take care to fully wet the carbon tow before applying the GF, its a bit tricky and you might get a weak spot if not done carefully.
In any case you can redo the bagging to repair any weak spots, before proceeding to the next steps.
@@afilos Awesome, thanks. I have an unbuilt ViCK dlg - if you heard of it - and as stock it's covered in tape. I didn't like the finish at all on the last one I built, so I might try glassing it using your instructions instead. Thanks again!
@@stevengreenhough4232 nice, it will be like day and night, the stiffness is unmatched compared to tape, and lighter. Just keep the wing cores and do everything else, my way! 😁
Thanks alot! That was the video I was waiting for for so long. Now we now every detail.
Do you not find it necessary to apply a second spar on the bottom of the wing which would take the pulling forces when the wing is bent upwards?
Yes of course, top and bottom spars are installed, I just don't show it on the video. It will be obvious when I remove the wings from the bag.
@@afilos Do not You use hard carbon sheet to strenghtened the wing? Is this enough for a wing span of this size?
@@goldenfish77No, I don't use hard carbon, because it doesn't follow the wing's profile. Using this CF tow allows for a smooth top surface finish. The strength is more than enough !
@@afilos And I think that it is lighter than the hard carbon rods. Thank You!
Hi. What spray glue you used?
Thanks keep comming
Any spray suitable for fabrics. This one is made locally in Greece so no point on sharing.
@@afilos Thanks. I watched all your videos. Tell me please, spray colour îs normally spray for car paint?
@@Sandokans acrylic spay paint.
How to attach the fiberglass to the wings? Please answer me please!!!!!!!🙏🙏
with slow curing epoxy, something like this static.rcgroups.net/forums/attachments/8/4/5/1/7/7/a14432625-36-Screenshot_2020-12-21-14-43-11-425_com.android.chrome.jpg
or this
www.fibermaxcomposites.com/shop/epoxy-systembrr6780-h6733brslow-p-100206.html?cPath=26
@@afilos thanks!!!
@@afilos Can I apply epoxy to the surface of the wing and attach 0.03mm glass fiber on it?
This account is my other account
@@Qwerasdfhdhdissiwi usually we apply epoxy onto the fiberglass and not on to the wings, this helps keep the weight of the epoxy used at minimum.
What are the wings reinforced with?
top and bottom CF spars, you can use unidirectional CF tape or CF tow
what is the poxy and resin ratio?
it depends on what epoxy system you are using, try to read the instructions on the label, its not the same for every system.
what material are you using for the wings?
XPS foam covered with 25g/m² fibreglass.
@@afilos thx
@@afilos hot wire cutted or cnc cutted?
th-cam.com/video/n2jZAsmHsEQ/w-d-xo.html
@@afilos thx
Is this depron?
No, it's XPS foam.
@@afilos 3mm?
@@afilos how to make the airfoil sir? I mean the plate
@@coverdestroyer3572 Yes 3mm
@@afilos thanks sir, could you share the plan sir?