I've watched a few of similar videos, and am taking delivery tomorrow on a Kubota L2502. The changes I think I would make is to place the draw bar and top link quite a bit closer to the front. Two reasons, it will make it so the top arm of the three point hitch clears easily. The other advantage is that the weight will be farther back from the hitch, giving the ballast box more leverage.
Yes, I put my drawbar 6" from the top rim and 13" from the bottom. The top link mount is the same 6", and I didn't sink it into the concrete it's above the concrete. The square tube sits about 2 to 3" above, slotted the tube, and bolted top link mount to it and it lays flat on the top, but it's flexible up and down but not side to side.
I've seen a few DIY ballast videos and yours is another great example of how to make it. I'm planning to do something very similar to what you have, with the addition of several PVC pipes that can be used for various long handled tools + chainsaws. The question I keep wondering is whether there's any advantages of installing the "drawbar" through the drum in a "vertical" versus "flat" position? Basically, at the 4:09 mark, when you look down into the drum, you would not see the holes. Rather, you'd see the top of the bar. I'm speculating this off the old premise of whether the strength would be greater in that position (less chance for flex + higher force needed to bend it) . Perhaps in this scenario, I'm completely overthinking it and it's not going to matter either way. In any case, great video & Thumbs up all the way!!
Thanks for watching. Appreciate the comments, not sure how vertical would help, not following you there. I need horizontal to hook up with the Drawbar, or are you saying you would run your barrel horizontally, in which case this would be a difficult project with the trash can.
@@TNYankee2020 Hey TNYankee, what I’m thinking about is recreating the same setup as yours. However when I say run the bar vertically, It would mean turning the drawbar 90 Degrees so that when you look down into the drum from the top, you would see the top rail of the drawbar. The height and location would be the same. Just changing the orientation of the drawbar. My theory is that it may be stronger that way due to the force needed to bend the bar. I hope that makes sense. Either way, great video and thanks for any updates and insight for those of us looking to do this. Thanks buddy
oh, i get you now. Yeah, that might be a good idea. Be sure to watch my follow up video on this one if you haven't already. Found I needed to make a modification to avoid the bent top link. @@goblue2708
With the draw bar flat it will support more weight. That extra inch may keep the concrete from cracking. I am going to do this with an old 60 gallon air compressor tank cut in half so the top hitch and draw bar will all be welded together in the concrete.
I did something very similar but I used steel cabling to securely tie my receiver to the drawbar. I unfortunately didn’t make proper accommodations for my top link either so it had engagement at full lift height and ultimately bent a top link on it which became my permanently mounted weight bucket top link. Nice job and thanks for sharing.
Yeah lol it’s funny to think that I was going to always remember to be careful to not raise it too high so I’ve since also bent my top link. oh well, it still works. I’ll take the concrete saw to it before I replace my top link. Thanks for watching and the kind words.
Good tutorial. I had already purchased what looks like the top link you have from Amazon before seeing your video. It is very heavy duty for the price. I have a 50 hp tractor and will be using a 55 gallon metal drum. Should weigh right at 1,200 pounds.
Should have mocked up receiver hitch, top link bracket and drawbar from wood, assemble in barrel, hook up, raise and use an angle finder to determine receiver angle, so when sitting plumb you will know where to have it sit before pouring quickcrete. You would also be able to see top link clearance and plan accordingly for cutout/form board. Cut your holes smaller than you think you need in the barrel and fit your parts for tight seal and always vibrate your concrete. You could always cut out the concrete for your top link as well. Cant change much now unfortunately because it's set in stone, lol. Other than that, good idea.
Thank you, sir, you could have, I contemplated it. I just thought it looked cleaner without it, and I figured one or two times of setting it down on the cement it would’ve cracked.
ive seen other vids on making this type of ballast, just dont understand why put a hitch on it? i could be wrong, but i cant see how its rated to pull anything?
I think the idea is lots of guys leave their ballast on frequently then still have the availability to move around other things without having to remove it. My ballast is only 50% of my 3pts rated capacity so it’s really no issue. I put the receiver in so I can still use my winch mount for light recovery or skidding.
Are your tires loaded? I just purchased a LX3310 Kubota and my tires are loaded and I also have a ballast box that I kept off of my L3240 Kubota which I estimate to be about 450 - 500 pounds. It is filled with sand. I hope it is heavy enough because I am putting a 63 inch snowblower on the front.
I would think you would be fine even without your ballast my tires weigh 220 lb each loaded and you're not really lifting a lot more or less pushing... thanks for watching
Nice build, TY. I made a concrete ballast box and built it to be able to lift the ballast without damage to my top link and also wanted the ballast to be Quick Hitch compatible. I enjoyed a full-watch of your video. Have a fine week. 👍🏽🤠 05/15/24 Here's a link to my humble attempt at a ballast box build. th-cam.com/video/kkik31gLk-0/w-d-xo.html
Thank you Houndsman that is a sweet build. I love the quick hitch compatibility, that's the one thing about mine. It's a bear to get on. And you saw me having to struggle get my top link bracket centered so that was genius having it hooked up to the tractor. Thanks for watching
I've watched a few of similar videos, and am taking delivery tomorrow on a Kubota L2502. The changes I think I would make is to place the draw bar and top link quite a bit closer to the front. Two reasons, it will make it so the top arm of the three point hitch clears easily. The other advantage is that the weight will be farther back from the hitch, giving the ballast box more leverage.
Thanks for watching. Enjoy your tractor. I was just using mine tonight with the ballast and the grapple.
Yes, I put my drawbar 6" from the top rim and 13" from the bottom. The top link mount is the same 6", and I didn't sink it into the concrete it's above the concrete. The square tube sits about 2 to 3" above, slotted the tube, and bolted top link mount to it and it lays flat on the top, but it's flexible up and down but not side to side.
I've seen a few DIY ballast videos and yours is another great example of how to make it. I'm planning to do something very similar to what you have, with the addition of several PVC pipes that can be used for various long handled tools + chainsaws. The question I keep wondering is whether there's any advantages of installing the "drawbar" through the drum in a "vertical" versus "flat" position? Basically, at the 4:09 mark, when you look down into the drum, you would not see the holes. Rather, you'd see the top of the bar. I'm speculating this off the old premise of whether the strength would be greater in that position (less chance for flex + higher force needed to bend it) . Perhaps in this scenario, I'm completely overthinking it and it's not going to matter either way. In any case, great video & Thumbs up all the way!!
Thanks for watching. Appreciate the comments, not sure how vertical would help, not following you there. I need horizontal to hook up with the Drawbar, or are you saying you would run your barrel horizontally, in which case this would be a difficult project with the trash can.
@@TNYankee2020 Hey TNYankee, what I’m thinking about is recreating the same setup as yours. However when I say run the bar vertically, It would mean turning the drawbar 90 Degrees so that when you look down into the drum from the top, you would see the top rail of the drawbar. The height and location would be the same. Just changing the orientation of the drawbar. My theory is that it may be stronger that way due to the force needed to bend the bar. I hope that makes sense. Either way, great video and thanks for any updates and insight for those of us looking to do this. Thanks buddy
oh, i get you now. Yeah, that might be a good idea. Be sure to watch my follow up video on this one if you haven't already. Found I needed to make a modification to avoid the bent top link. @@goblue2708
With the draw bar flat it will support more weight. That extra inch may keep the concrete from cracking. I am going to do this with an old 60 gallon air compressor tank cut in half so the top hitch and draw bar will all be welded together in the concrete.
I did something very similar but I used steel cabling to securely tie my receiver to the drawbar. I unfortunately didn’t make proper accommodations for my top link either so it had engagement at full lift height and ultimately bent a top link on it which became my permanently mounted weight bucket top link. Nice job and thanks for sharing.
Yeah lol it’s funny to think that I was going to always remember to be careful to not raise it too high so I’ve since also bent my top link. oh well, it still works. I’ll take the concrete saw to it before I replace my top link. Thanks for watching and the kind words.
Good tutorial. I had already purchased what looks like the top link you have from Amazon before seeing your video. It is very heavy duty for the price. I have a 50 hp tractor and will be using a 55 gallon metal drum. Should weigh right at 1,200 pounds.
Thanks for the comments, yeah, that should be about right that will be a heavy one for sure, but you got the beefy tractor to make it work.
You could always use a tile cutting disk on an angle grinder to cut a nice notch out of there.
Oh yeah that is on my to do list ;-)
@@TNYankee2020 use the angle grinder to score the outline as deep as you can, then use a masonry chisel and it should chip out.
Should have mocked up receiver hitch, top link bracket and drawbar from wood, assemble in barrel, hook up, raise and use an angle finder to determine receiver angle, so when sitting plumb you will know where to have it sit before pouring quickcrete. You would also be able to see top link clearance and plan accordingly for cutout/form board. Cut your holes smaller than you think you need in the barrel and fit your parts for tight seal and always vibrate your concrete. You could always cut out the concrete for your top link as well. Cant change much now unfortunately because it's set in stone, lol. Other than that, good idea.
Yep, lots of good advice. Nothing that my 4-in angle grinder didn't fix.
How much does it weigh? Great idea.
Around 700lbs.
@@TNYankee2020 outstanding
Cut out a notch in the con rete with z grinder for the clearance you need
Thought of that after the fact. 😝 Thanks for watching
nice job. Might have to try this myself. Q: Any reason why you didn't just leave the garbage can on the finished product?
Thank you, sir, you could have, I contemplated it. I just thought it looked cleaner without it, and I figured one or two times of setting it down on the cement it would’ve cracked.
Probably because that would look pretty ghetto 😏
ive seen other vids on making this type of ballast, just dont understand why put a hitch on it? i could be wrong, but i cant see how its rated to pull anything?
I think the idea is lots of guys leave their ballast on frequently then still have the availability to move around other things without having to remove it. My ballast is only 50% of my 3pts rated capacity so it’s really no issue. I put the receiver in so I can still use my winch mount for light recovery or skidding.
Are your tires loaded? I just purchased a LX3310 Kubota and my tires are loaded and I also have a ballast box that I kept off of my L3240 Kubota which I estimate to be about 450 - 500 pounds. It is filled with sand. I hope it is heavy enough because I am putting a 63 inch snowblower on the front.
I would think you would be fine even without your ballast my tires weigh 220 lb each loaded and you're not really lifting a lot more or less pushing... thanks for watching
Not to be a negative nanny, but your drawbar is mounted the wrong way. It will bend mounted the way you have it.
No worries, thanks for watching, the consensus is mixed on that, I have been running this for 2 years now, quite frequently with no bending.
Nice build, TY. I made a concrete ballast box and built it to be able to lift the ballast without damage to my top link and also wanted the ballast to be Quick Hitch compatible. I enjoyed a full-watch of your video. Have a fine week. 👍🏽🤠 05/15/24
Here's a link to my humble attempt at a ballast box build. th-cam.com/video/kkik31gLk-0/w-d-xo.html
Thank you Houndsman that is a sweet build. I love the quick hitch compatibility, that's the one thing about mine. It's a bear to get on. And you saw me having to struggle get my top link bracket centered so that was genius having it hooked up to the tractor. Thanks for watching
Updated part 2 video can be found here: th-cam.com/video/2H7m8ckX9Z4/w-d-xo.html