I have been having terrible trouble. It seems that the plaster sand that I was given to my motor was too wet to begin with and everyone was telling me photo on a 5 to one, but tomorrow I’m going to use 3:1 at last, I found somebody who is explaining The things I need to know at last well done. Thanks very much.
All depends on how hard the bricks are. 4:1 sand : cement is standard in UK which is fine for most modern bricks, but if you have an older building it might have been made with lime mortar. Hydrated (builders) lime could also be used to make the mortar more plastic. E.g 6 sand, 2 lime, 1 cement.
if your using it as a decorator on repair jobs 3:1 or 2:1 is best as you need it to dry faster to paint over as exterior decorator fillers are expensive looking at £50 for 5kg for a the best one and £80 for 15kg the second best these 2 are the only ones that last as long as actual cement
id like to take my time. work slow. set everything up. pour the next day. that way, they know im not hurrying, ill think of everything, complete everything in preparation. then sleep on it because every repair job is different. come back in the morning, do the actual work. wait around. i just tell them, dedicate the day here to you, pay me this much. you want a cheap job, sure. ill rush, pour the same day, finish the next. accelerate the drying time of the patches. this guy budding salesman with the company was asking the older salesman, they were sitting around drinking. he askes the old guy, well how do you go in and sell a job. the guy goes into this spheile about how you explain to them, how whatever your selling is the best thing around. blah blah blah...so he turns to the other salesman, how do you do it? the guy says, first, i find out what kind of sucker i am dealing with.and thats been my motto ever since.
2:50 - 3:1 is what I've learnt as standard for brick mortar. However, I just laid screed using 2:1. Came out lovely. Barely an inch thick. Didn't use any air entrainer.
It is important because too much can ruin your mix, they vary depending on brand. I would usually put about an inch in the bottom of a bucket and fill it with water then use that to add to your mixer. Only the first bucket though. They all have instructions on the back so best to stick to the guidelines
I like your vids and have subscribed but unfortunately this video is not correct. The golden rule is mortar should not be stronger than the matieral you are working on. For example if you use a 3:1 mix on a wall that is lime mortar then it is likely to crack in the future, you see this a lot. The mix has to be the right one for the job and a overly strong mix is just as bad as a weak mix, worse probably.
Painter and decorator, but over the years you pick up a lot. Working for yourself you never know what you may come across interior or exterior. And waiting for another trade or the job being to small you need to crack on so you learn.
I have been having terrible trouble. It seems that the plaster sand that I was given to my motor was too wet to begin with and everyone was telling me photo on a 5 to one, but tomorrow I’m going to use 3:1 at last, I found somebody who is explaining The things I need to know at last well done. Thanks very much.
4 to 1 below dpc / 5 to 1 usually above......mortar should always be softer than the brick you are working with.......3 to 1 way to strong!!!!
All depends on how hard the bricks are. 4:1 sand : cement is standard in UK which is fine for most modern bricks, but if you have an older building it might have been made with lime mortar.
Hydrated (builders) lime could also be used to make the mortar more plastic. E.g 6 sand, 2 lime, 1 cement.
I'm no Bricky but that sounds a bit strong to me, I thought the industry standard was 4:1
I stand corrected, it does vary to be fair depending on the job
Excellent advice, has to be suitable for the application 👍
i totally agree is critical the mixe got be wright for the application.
3:1 Is too strong for most applications. 4:1 Is a better general mix
if your using it as a decorator on repair jobs 3:1 or 2:1 is best as you need it to dry faster to paint over as exterior decorator fillers are expensive looking at £50 for 5kg for a the best one and £80 for 15kg the second best these 2 are the only ones that last as long as actual cement
id like to take my time. work slow. set everything up. pour the next day. that way, they know im not hurrying, ill think of everything, complete everything in preparation. then sleep on it because every repair job is different. come back in the morning, do the actual work. wait around. i just tell them, dedicate the day here to you, pay me this much. you want a cheap job, sure. ill rush, pour the same day, finish the next. accelerate the drying time of the patches.
this guy budding salesman with the company was asking the older salesman, they were sitting around drinking. he askes the old guy, well how do you go in and sell a job. the guy goes into this spheile about how you explain to them, how whatever your selling is the best thing around. blah blah blah...so he turns to the other salesman, how do you do it? the guy says, first, i find out what kind of sucker i am dealing with.and thats been my motto ever since.
2:50 - 3:1 is what I've learnt as standard for brick mortar. However, I just laid screed using 2:1. Came out lovely. Barely an inch thick. Didn't use any air entrainer.
Very interesting. Thanks for the video.
great info again thanx
Thanks.
What do you think about the commercial mix? I had a problem of crumbling with many of them.. Could it be better adding some cement to the mix?
Possibly.. have not used the commercial sk can not comment... bug cement is the expensive component. So may be thanks
@@PaintingandDecorating thank you for your response. Have a nice day!
How much plasticizer? I guess the amount is not important since he didn't mention it.
It is important because too much can ruin your mix, they vary depending on brand. I would usually put about an inch in the bottom of a bucket and fill it with water then use that to add to your mixer. Only the first bucket though. They all have instructions on the back so best to stick to the guidelines
I like your vids and have subscribed but unfortunately this video is not correct. The golden rule is mortar should not be stronger than the matieral you are working on. For example if you use a 3:1 mix on a wall that is lime mortar then it is likely to crack in the future, you see this a lot. The mix has to be the right one for the job and a overly strong mix is just as bad as a weak mix, worse probably.
Never had problems myself.
Great help thanks 😊
Not ‘motor’ … Mortar in last comment
Us Yanks use pre-mix. Makes life allot easier.
yeah but is more expensive
what you would use pre mix as a professional and use it for pointing etc turn out 20 times more expensive through out the course of the year
But how come everyone says 41 or even 5 to one, but you’re saying 3 to one
Well you only have to look at failing building work. Basically that's the minimum and the cheapest build.
u a dec or a builder ?????
Painter and decorator, but over the years you pick up a lot. Working for yourself you never know what you may come across interior or exterior.
And waiting for another trade or the job being to small you need to crack on so you learn.
@@PaintingandDecorating i havnt got time for my decorating never mind building
@@robertscottwaugh8122 A decorators house is never finished lol
Cannot understand because the accent is to strong. Bye
I understood him. Maybe you're just retarded.