This is the final part to the timing belt and water pump job. I hope these videos help you out! Please leave a 👍 and share the video! 👉 Visit our website ► carapprentice.com
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✔ Lens used ► amzn.to/2Deu16S
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@@carapprentice sry worded poorly why the need to lock off the balance shaft with a pin/screwdriver ?? is it to just assure no movement wile installing belt ? can this be done without doing so ??
Thanks. Mine has 239000 miles on it and I'm not sure when it was last done. Do you know how to change out the steering rack? Mine's leaking like a sieve!
I've done a steering rack on a CR-V, but not on the RL. The procedure doesn't look too difficult. Here's a link to the factory service manual, which should be very useful: www.mediafire.com/file/uvbmryok1ax4vbs/Acura_RL_-_Factory_Service_Manual_%25281996-2004%2529.zip/file
So I’m gonna attempt to do the timing belt by taking off the radiator so that I have more room I just wanted to ask does the crank pulley have to come off to change the timing belt or just that seal. Cause I was thinking I needed a breaker bar just to get the job done which I don’t have
Yes, the crank pulley has to be removed to replace the timing belt. If you have a high-torque impact wrench and enough space, the Lisle 77080 socket should work. The starter bump trick is another alternative. See this video for more details: th-cam.com/video/l2ouH45cCus/w-d-xo.htmlsi=hZzDWMoVJAXHX7uB
Yes, I replaced the rear main seal when I replaced the engine eight years ago; I've never replaced the seal while the engine was still in the car, though. Access to the transmission bolts to get to the seal is very limited. Also, a shop lift would probably be best. Here are a couple links: Video on disengaging the extension shaft: th-cam.com/users/shortsPbPUdoCIWl8 Factory service manual: www.mediafire.com/file/uvbmryok1ax4vbs/Acura_RL_-_Factory_Service_Manual_%25281996-2004%2529.zip/file Hope this helps.
@@carapprentice I am in the process of removing the engine atm. how did you go about that ? any video of you doing that? love your video btw. very complete. when i get the engine down, i will be attending to many items. I have the exact car as you in the same color even.
@@jeffmoler7239 Unfortunately, I don't have video, but I saved some pics: www.mediafire.com/folder/uqfmr58msn707/RL_PICS. The service manual is very accurate, also. I removed the engine out the top, but I know some who have access to lifts prefer to drop the engine. A load leveler like the OTC 4305 I used is vital. A jack under the engine helps to get it off the mounts. Thanks for checking out the video!
@@carapprentice I'm working on removing the engine. The way I see this is the transmission stays in place but supported on a jack. Unbolt the 4 red bolts in the bell housing among other disconnections. That free's up the engine to move forward and up on the way out. Am I on the right track? This is all in an effort to replace the rear main seal. Your help is so very appreciated.
@@jeffmoler7239 You could try it that way, but it may be easier to just pull the transmission with the engine. I'm unsure of the difficulty of reinstalling the engine and getting it to mate up with the transmission that's left behind on the car. Also, reaching the bellhousing bolts is a chore.
I haven't received any formal training in automotive repair and maintenance. Most of the step-by-step comes from factory service manuals, and I apply tools and techniques I've acquired over the years. Occasionally, I have to get creative, which is the fun part.
This is the final part to the timing belt and water pump job. I hope these videos help you out!
Please leave a 👍 and share the video!
👉 Visit our website ► carapprentice.com
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👍▬▬Follow Us on Social Media▬▬👍
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✔ Instagram ► bit.ly/3u380lS
🔧▬▬Tools and Materials▬▬🔧
✔ Car Apprentice Recommended Tools and Materials ► bit.ly/3DP75xM
✔ Honda Crank Pulley Tool ► amzn.to/47lYsXZ
✔ OEMTOOLS Crank Bolt Socket ►amzn.to/3KvT0rL
✔ Ring Nose Pliers ► amzn.to/3rEuDl4
✔ Magnetic Spark Plug Socket ► amzn.to/3Yyw2pM
Part numbers:
Timing belt tensioner: 14510-P5A-003 (Koyo) - used WD Express 079 01001 308
Timing belt: 14400-P5A-004 (Unitta - same as Gates PowerGrip) - used Gates T279
Balancer belt: 13440-P5A-004 (Unitta - same as Gates PowerGrip) - used Gates T280
Balancer belt tensioner: 13450-P5A-003 (Koyo) - used PU245028DRR1DV
Water pump: 19200-P5A-004 (Honda)
Crank seal: 91212-PY3-003 (Nok)
Thermostat gasket: 19313-P5G-000 - used Felpro 35828
📷▬▬Video Equipment▬▬📷
✔ Camera used ► amzn.to/2GcpkOb
✔ Lens used ► amzn.to/2Deu16S
✔ Tripod ► amzn.to/2GbaM1c
✔ RAM Suction Mount ► amzn.to/2Wz9PXh
✔ Cyberlink PowerDirector ► bit.ly/2jTwGxT
✔ Adobe Photoshop ► bit.ly/2V7nyUX
✔ Camera Slider ► amzn.to/2WtD7GW
✔ Deity V-Mic D3 Super-Cardioid Directional Shotgun Microphone ► amzn.to/2LI1lf7
This video was recorded in 4K resolution, so modify your settings accordingly if desired for better image quality
Disclosure: This video contains affiliate links, meaning, at no additional cost to you, I will receive a commission if you click through and make a purchase.
Yes finally 🙌.... a video for the acura 2000 RL .. not many video of water pump and timing belt replacement for this car . Thank u
My pleasure. Thanks for checking out the videos!
YOU sir is the Legend!
lol. Thanks for checking out the video.
Love how you do your videos. Very thorough and explain things very well. Thank you for your help!
Appreciate the kind words. Thanks for checking out the videos!
Thanks Ben! Got the RL done yesterday. I appreciate you posting it so quickly.
Nice! Glad it worked out.
hi , purpose of the sealing bolt / ballancer shaft ???? why is the need to lock off shaft ??
The balancer shaft helps reduce vibration. To properly tension the belt, the procedure shown in the video should be followed.
@@carapprentice sry worded poorly why the need to lock off the balance shaft with a pin/screwdriver ?? is it to just assure no movement wile installing belt ? can this be done without doing so ??
21:50
21:35 can we just make sure these marks stay aligned and proceed without removal of bolt and insertion of 45mm m6 ?
@@rylzb5887 I suppose some other method is possible. The method shown in the video is taken from the service manual.
U are Awesome man!!!
Thanks!
Thanks. Mine has 239000 miles on it and I'm not sure when it was last done.
Do you know how to change out the steering rack? Mine's leaking like a sieve!
I've done a steering rack on a CR-V, but not on the RL. The procedure doesn't look too difficult. Here's a link to the factory service manual, which should be very useful: www.mediafire.com/file/uvbmryok1ax4vbs/Acura_RL_-_Factory_Service_Manual_%25281996-2004%2529.zip/file
@@carapprentice Thanks!
So I’m gonna attempt to do the timing belt by taking off the radiator so that I have more room I just wanted to ask does the crank pulley have to come off to change the timing belt or just that seal. Cause I was thinking I needed a breaker bar just to get the job done which I don’t have
Yes, the crank pulley has to be removed to replace the timing belt. If you have a high-torque impact wrench and enough space, the Lisle 77080 socket should work. The starter bump trick is another alternative. See this video for more details: th-cam.com/video/l2ouH45cCus/w-d-xo.htmlsi=hZzDWMoVJAXHX7uB
have you done anything with the "rear main seal"? I'm in the middle of dealing with that
Yes, I replaced the rear main seal when I replaced the engine eight years ago; I've never replaced the seal while the engine was still in the car, though. Access to the transmission bolts to get to the seal is very limited. Also, a shop lift would probably be best. Here are a couple links:
Video on disengaging the extension shaft: th-cam.com/users/shortsPbPUdoCIWl8
Factory service manual: www.mediafire.com/file/uvbmryok1ax4vbs/Acura_RL_-_Factory_Service_Manual_%25281996-2004%2529.zip/file
Hope this helps.
@@carapprentice I am in the process of removing the engine atm. how did you go about that ? any video of you doing that? love your video btw. very complete. when i get the engine down, i will be attending to many items. I have the exact car as you in the same color even.
@@jeffmoler7239 Unfortunately, I don't have video, but I saved some pics: www.mediafire.com/folder/uqfmr58msn707/RL_PICS. The service manual is very accurate, also.
I removed the engine out the top, but I know some who have access to lifts prefer to drop the engine. A load leveler like the OTC 4305 I used is vital. A jack under the engine helps to get it off the mounts.
Thanks for checking out the video!
@@carapprentice I'm working on removing the engine. The way I see this is the transmission stays in place but supported on a jack. Unbolt the 4 red bolts in the bell housing among other disconnections. That free's up the engine to move forward and up on the way out. Am I on the right track? This is all in an effort to replace the rear main seal. Your help is so very appreciated.
@@jeffmoler7239 You could try it that way, but it may be easier to just pull the transmission with the engine. I'm unsure of the difficulty of reinstalling the engine and getting it to mate up with the transmission that's left behind on the car. Also, reaching the bellhousing bolts is a chore.
Did you have to go to school to learn how to do this?
I haven't received any formal training in automotive repair and maintenance. Most of the step-by-step comes from factory service manuals, and I apply tools and techniques I've acquired over the years. Occasionally, I have to get creative, which is the fun part.
How can anyone know so much?
@@CarlosPerez-r8j Practice...and a copy of the factory service manual 😀