awesome video !! definitely going to be watching all of your vids now !! I have a 79 with the same setup and injector 3 is stuck it seems, has power to the connector, spark and compression so I can only assume the injector is stuck it was sitting for quite a few years. Thanks
Great Channel! Thanks for all of your efforts in videoing your great work. I had a guy replace my injectors and rubber hoses a few years ago. I believe my fuel pressure regulator is going bad, I've got to do a few more tests to confirm it. The car starts like a new car cold, but once it's fully warmed up it runs great but it won't start hot if shut off. It needs a long session with the hood open before it will start again. I've got a '77 so similar set up to yours, 3 ports for fuel and one port on the bottom for vacuum with no bolts. My question is how far should I disassemble the fuel rail to replace the fuel pressure regulator? Or can I actually horse a new fuel pressure regulator in without loosening anything else on the fuel rail or breaking anything? Thanks!
Sorry, I should have asked, I see in a previous video you noted that we could have our injectors rebuilt for a fraction of the cost of purchasing new ones. Any one in particular? a link would be great. Thanks again!
+cyttaP Hello, You're very welcome. There are some differences between the carburetted 260z and the injected 280Z, but there are far more similarities than differences. I hope you enjoy the restoration process!
+cyttaP I would love to be able to get to body work eventually, but right now I'm focusing my time and money on getting this thing to purr and run like it should. But I do want to keep this car looking stock in general, other than maybe the bumpers.
This channel is a lifesaver! With such a messy injection/vacuum/intake system a worded walkthrough is impossible to follow. Cannot thank you enough for this
Welcome welcome Ben! That's exactly what this series is for, so glad to hear it. Please let me know if you have any suggestions or topics you'd want to see.
I'm about to pull my injectors for cleaning, which is how I found your video. I'm sure I'll have questions as I move through the rest of your excellent series.
+Benjamin Hunting gotcha. Are you planning to clean them yourself or get them professionally restored? I ended up buying a new set because I was in a hurry, but I could've saved a lot of money if I just refurbished the old ones.
Restoration For Beginners there's a diesel shop near me that will professionally clean / restore them. I am in Montréal so the car is off the road for the winter, so I have plenty of time.
So I have a 280z I bought mid swap and so the EFI plugs to the injectors were never marked. Is there a way to tell which is which? I think 456 is right si ce they only reach so far. But 123 I'm not sure about. Thanks for the great videos
@@Izeon so doesnt matter what plug goes to which injector from the harness. It didnt say anything like that in the video and seems like the computer would have to tell which injector to fire when it needs to.
They do a batch fire of fuel they all shoot together and he did I can’t remember which part but that’s how I learned it, no biggie, go to the part where he removed the wires from the fuel injectors and he’ll say it
Great video!Thanks so much for the help. Looked over some of your others. Some of the best I have seen. Looking forward to future videos. Very well organized video with captions.
+Slick Sunshades I will try to get to it as soon as possible! Right now I have to take my intake and exhaust manifold, along with my cylinder head to the machine shop, so I'll see how fast they can turn that around so I can continue the restoration.
don't be too p'd off at the guy that busted the front rail mount bolt, easy to do (I did it too). Not sure why but it was very soft and broke easy. I do have a bit of bolt sticking out, I plan to use a new tool (bolt buster) on it to see if heating will get it out. I can grab it with some vice grips but its too stuck and they just chew it up.
+Dave WM You're right :) I was more annoyed because there were multiple broken bolts on the block, in addition to some questionable uses of too-long bolts with too-many washers... That one is particularly annoying also because there's little room to drill it out without taking out the radiator. There just isn't enough sticking out to grip it out either.
that one will be tough, not a critical thing, but I hear you, drives me nuts just knowing its broken :)One thing to warn you viewers, the stat housing bolts are different and you have to use the correct on, there is a possible interference on the timing chain if you use a too long bolt on the front housing hole.
Dave, I'm officially giving up on those broken studs, some professional help is needed. I noticed enough carbon build up in the cylinder head to convince me to pull it for a full rebuild and send it to a machine shop anyway. I'll have them deal with the broken studs...
if you are going to pull the head then def let the shop deal with it. they have to tools to mill it perfect and cleanly get those studs out. The only issue that you may run into is getting the head off. Those head bolts can be tricky, I have seen them break then you have to get them out of the block, another circle in Dante's inferno. On my exhaust manifold, I ended up having one stud blasted out by a shop using a LASER, 50$ so no cheap but at least its done. If the exhaust bolt is broken BELOW the head, that drill guide tool would be perfect, it needs a bit of a recess to fit the guide. On last thing, even getting the head bolts out is not the end of the game, sometimes the head is practically glued to the block. I have seen and read about real horror stories of trying to get the head to break free. Consider all this before you tackle removing it. I would suggest that IF that exhaust bolt could be removed with the drill guide AND if there are no other issues with the head (like bad valves/guides or leaks in the gasket) then you would be better off leaving it on and trying to remove the broken bolt. Which ever route you go, best of luck, the videos are great.
Yeah, I'm tackling pulling the cylinder head off this weekend. I wanted to pause for a bit and give myself a chance to re-read through the FSM and some other resources to make sure I'm removing the head correctly. Aside from the broken bolts, I see enough carbon build up in the head for me to want to just get it completely rebuilt. I'm crossing my fingers that it doesn't end up being a nightmare. I really don't want to end up pulling the entire engine. At least not yet....
what about spark plug wires, dont you need to number those too? great video by the way!.. also, do I need to clean fuel injectors. should I just take off one at a time? or do this whole process ?
awesome video !! definitely going to be watching all of your vids now !! I have a 79 with the same setup and injector 3 is stuck it seems, has power to the connector, spark and compression so I can only assume the injector is stuck it was sitting for quite a few years.
Thanks
Great Channel! Thanks for all of your efforts in videoing your great work. I had a guy replace my injectors and rubber hoses a few years ago. I believe my fuel pressure regulator is going bad, I've got to do a few more tests to confirm it. The car starts like a new car cold, but once it's fully warmed up it runs great but it won't start hot if shut off. It needs a long session with the hood open before it will start again. I've got a '77 so similar set up to yours, 3 ports for fuel and one port on the bottom for vacuum with no bolts. My question is how far should I disassemble the fuel rail to replace the fuel pressure regulator? Or can I actually horse a new fuel pressure regulator in without loosening anything else on the fuel rail or breaking anything? Thanks!
Awesome video. Especially, when it comes to keeping your 280z original. Thank you!
Sorry, I should have asked, I see in a previous video you noted that we could have our injectors rebuilt for a fraction of the cost of purchasing new ones. Any one in particular? a link would be great. Thanks again!
thank you for these videos. Just bought a 260z and beginning restoration.
+cyttaP Hello,
You're very welcome. There are some differences between the carburetted 260z and the injected 280Z, but there are far more similarities than differences.
I hope you enjoy the restoration process!
Thanks, any plans for adding an air dam and fenders?
+cyttaP I would love to be able to get to body work eventually, but right now I'm focusing my time and money on getting this thing to purr and run like it should. But I do want to keep this car looking stock in general, other than maybe the bumpers.
Fantastic video, followed along step by step & had my fuel rail out in a couple of hours
This channel is a lifesaver! With such a messy injection/vacuum/intake system a worded walkthrough is impossible to follow. Cannot thank you enough for this
No problem Daniel, happy to have you with us. Make sure you help out other newbies or let us know if you run into any issues!
Words can not explain how happy I am that you made this video. Thank you very much!
Thank you very much for this series - it's much appreciated when working on my own Z.
Welcome welcome Ben! That's exactly what this series is for, so glad to hear it. Please let me know if you have any suggestions or topics you'd want to see.
I'm about to pull my injectors for cleaning, which is how I found your video. I'm sure I'll have questions as I move through the rest of your excellent series.
+Benjamin Hunting gotcha. Are you planning to clean them yourself or get them professionally restored? I ended up buying a new set because I was in a hurry, but I could've saved a lot of money if I just refurbished the old ones.
Restoration For Beginners there's a diesel shop near me that will professionally clean / restore them. I am in Montréal so the car is off the road for the winter, so I have plenty of time.
So I have a 280z I bought mid swap and so the EFI plugs to the injectors were never marked. Is there a way to tell which is which? I think 456 is right si ce they only reach so far. But 123 I'm not sure about. Thanks for the great videos
Jimmy 2Jackets you obviously didn’t watch the video there all interchangeable you can put 6 on 1 and it won’t change a thing
@@Izeon so doesnt matter what plug goes to which injector from the harness. It didnt say anything like that in the video and seems like the computer would have to tell which injector to fire when it needs to.
They do a batch fire of fuel they all shoot together and he did I can’t remember which part but that’s how I learned it, no biggie, go to the part where he removed the wires from the fuel injectors and he’ll say it
@@Izeon ok thank you. Appreciate the help. I always feel it is better to ask
Great video!Thanks so much for the help. Looked over some of your others. Some of the best I have seen. Looking forward to future videos. Very well organized video with captions.
You're very welcome, glad you're enjoying the series!
Awesome video! Did everything like you did, including spilling fuel from the thermo switch! Keep up the awesome videos, these are excellent!
A video about the vacuum lines would be incredibly useful, I'm looking forward to it.
+Slick Sunshades I will try to get to it as soon as possible! Right now I have to take my intake and exhaust manifold, along with my cylinder head to the machine shop, so I'll see how fast they can turn that around so I can continue the restoration.
don't be too p'd off at the guy that busted the front rail mount bolt, easy to do (I did it too). Not sure why but it was very soft and broke easy. I do have a bit of bolt sticking out, I plan to use a new tool (bolt buster) on it to see if heating will get it out. I can grab it with some vice grips but its too stuck and they just chew it up.
+Dave WM
You're right :) I was more annoyed because there were multiple broken bolts on the block, in addition to some questionable uses of too-long bolts with too-many washers... That one is particularly annoying also because there's little room to drill it out without taking out the radiator. There just isn't enough sticking out to grip it out either.
that one will be tough, not a critical thing, but I hear you, drives me nuts just knowing its broken :)One thing to warn you viewers, the stat housing bolts are different and you have to use the correct on, there is a possible interference on the timing chain if you use a too long bolt on the front housing hole.
Dave, I'm officially giving up on those broken studs, some professional help is needed. I noticed enough carbon build up in the cylinder head to convince me to pull it for a full rebuild and send it to a machine shop anyway. I'll have them deal with the broken studs...
if you are going to pull the head then def let the shop deal with it. they have to tools to mill it perfect and cleanly get those studs out. The only issue that you may run into is getting the head off. Those head bolts can be tricky, I have seen them break then you have to get them out of the block, another circle in Dante's inferno. On my exhaust manifold, I ended up having one stud blasted out by a shop using a LASER, 50$ so no cheap but at least its done. If the exhaust bolt is broken BELOW the head, that drill guide tool would be perfect, it needs a bit of a recess to fit the guide. On last thing, even getting the head bolts out is not the end of the game, sometimes the head is practically glued to the block. I have seen and read about real horror stories of trying to get the head to break free. Consider all this before you tackle removing it. I would suggest that IF that exhaust bolt could be removed with the drill guide AND if there are no other issues with the head (like bad valves/guides or leaks in the gasket) then you would be better off leaving it on and trying to remove the broken bolt. Which ever route you go, best of luck, the videos are great.
Yeah, I'm tackling pulling the cylinder head off this weekend. I wanted to pause for a bit and give myself a chance to re-read through the FSM and some other resources to make sure I'm removing the head correctly. Aside from the broken bolts, I see enough carbon build up in the head for me to want to just get it completely rebuilt. I'm crossing my fingers that it doesn't end up being a nightmare.
I really don't want to end up pulling the entire engine. At least not yet....
This was a big help. Great job...thank you!
thanks
what about spark plug wires, dont you need to number those too? great video by the way!.. also, do I need to clean fuel injectors. should I just take off one at a time? or do this whole process ?
Youre goinv way to fast for us rooks man its taking me 10 minutes to see how u did shit in the first 2 minutes. but thaks fo the video