Geez,...the memories you guys trigger ....I switched out differentials in 1972 on a gravel driveway....Ended up with 4:11's 'cause my parts car had overdrive...I've had a 3:73 gearset in a box for over 30 years, just a job that doesn't appeal to me anymore.....For 'under-car' work I use large sheets of cardboard saved from appliance purchases and I always have beer flats around for tools and parts, especially dirty stuff...My wife was upset at my last big screen TV buy, but I really needed that cardboard box ! LOL ...Life is good, getting shorter, but good....John (west coast,Can.)
You have done a tremendous amount of work on this in a very short time-frame. It does take good teamwork, and you have both of you have participated very well. Congratulations!!
Moving along quickly and looking nice,,, I thought you had a blast cabinet for cleaning parts, great work guys nice teamwork.. did not know about lubing the rear springs. Opps..
I have a cabinet at my place but to be honest with you it’s tucked away and is a hassle to get out…plus I have to move cars out of the garage…it’s easier to bite the bullet and sand/grind/wire wheel.
I love seeing how simple these cars are to work on! I think about what holds me back from starting new projects, and I feel that I'm afraid of seized hardware, for the most part. And, It seems like no matter how much I prepare for the job, I'm going to make a few trips to the hardware store or NAPA Autoparts. Your video went great with coffee this morning and I'm looking forward to the next!
Well, we have had our share of seized fasteners…we pretty much had to cut the rear bumper off for example…par for the course I think. Maybe in one of my videos, I’ll take a quick shot of my fastener kit that I have on standby for “eventualities” 😉
Having loved and babied my '64 TR4 back in the 1970's it pains me to see you doing only a partial restoration of this TR4. But I understand your reasoning. I'm going to try to drive up from Virginia to the 6Pack event to see this car and meet you both. Wish I had a TR-something to drive up in, but I'm reliving my TR4 past vicariously through you guys! Great job.
Hi James, it’s definitely different for me doing this type of restoration…but, in a way it’s pretty liberating not having to worry about every dent or scratch in the body work. The underneath of the car, engine bay and passenger compartment should be pretty good by the end of the project. See you at the TRials!
Nice job guys! I do need to mention an observation, as no good job goes uncriticized. David, I saw you all ready to get under the car wearing all of the PPE(personal protective equipment) to keep the crap from going in your face, but the video had Elin under the car doing the work. I am surprised that you did not paint the visible end of the axel and did not, at least, clean up the excess grease from the driveshaft universal. Also, it looked like the driveshaft bolts are too short and not going through the nylon part of the nut. I had the the same issue when purchasing those bolts. It must be nice to have a helper who knows exactly what to do, not just someone who drinks your beer while you do the work. Cheers!
Hi Jim, I cleaned up the rear section and mid section of the bottom of the car and Elin cleaned up the more towards the heelboard and mid section of the car so we split it up a bit...I did mention it in the video with my "fat guy, skinny guy" comment. The visible end of the axle should not be painted as there are shims that sit there to set the axle endfloat. This needs to be a clean surface and not painted. The universal joints were cleaned up of old grease and new grease was pumped in before it was fitted back to the car. The bolts are specific tolerance machined bolts and nyloc nuts for the driveshaft. Both Grade 8 and brand new. Absolutely! Elin and I work well together and enjoy spending time in the garage on a common project.
@@cheftush I meant the part of the axel that sticks out of the hole in the brake drum, with the nut and cotter pin. As far as the fat guy, skinny guy response, you could have raised the vehicle more. I hope you understand that my comments are mostly humorous, I really like the work you guys do. Was I correct about the driveshaft bolt lengths?
My diff was leaking oil out the pinion area after putting a new seal in. It turned out it was coming out the threads and once I put some sealer on the threads, it stopped. It wasn't a lot, but wouldn't hurt to do this in the future to save a couple drips on the floor.
Ok, here are the seals being replaced. Yeah, I guess that make sense to paint first then the old seals and gaskets hide the metal in the places you need.
Are the lever shocks cast aluminum or steel. I just bought a a brand new lever shock. It comes unpainted. The original is leaking through the oil seal at the arm. One day I might send it to Apple hydraulics. Can I leave the new casting unpainted?
I am amazed with how far you've come with the car, it's looking great underneath.
Geez,...the memories you guys trigger ....I switched out differentials in 1972 on a gravel driveway....Ended up with 4:11's 'cause my parts car had overdrive...I've had a 3:73 gearset in a box for over 30 years, just a job that doesn't appeal to me anymore.....For 'under-car' work I use large sheets of cardboard saved from appliance purchases and I always have beer flats around for tools and parts, especially dirty stuff...My wife was upset at my last big screen TV buy, but I really needed that cardboard box ! LOL ...Life is good, getting shorter, but good....John (west coast,Can.)
Great teamwork from you both.. That was a lot of work completed and it's looking splendid. Looking forward to the next episode.
You two are cranking out the work. Will be a driver before you know it!
You have done a tremendous amount of work on this in a very short time-frame. It does take good teamwork, and you have both of you have participated very well. Congratulations!!
Moving along quickly and looking nice,,, I thought you had a blast cabinet for cleaning parts, great work guys nice teamwork.. did not know about lubing the rear springs. Opps..
I have a cabinet at my place but to be honest with you it’s tucked away and is a hassle to get out…plus I have to move cars out of the garage…it’s easier to bite the bullet and sand/grind/wire wheel.
Looking good underneath, it's going to be well worth all the effort you have both put into this project.
Good videos 😊
Zoom zoom !
Keep up the great work.
I love seeing how simple these cars are to work on! I think about what holds me back from starting new projects, and I feel that I'm afraid of seized hardware, for the most part. And, It seems like no matter how much I prepare for the job, I'm going to make a few trips to the hardware store or NAPA Autoparts. Your video went great with coffee this morning and I'm looking forward to the next!
Well, we have had our share of seized fasteners…we pretty much had to cut the rear bumper off for example…par for the course I think. Maybe in one of my videos, I’ll take a quick shot of my fastener kit that I have on standby for “eventualities” 😉
It must be killing Elin having to wait to drive this!
I think he’s looking forward to it!
Having loved and babied my '64 TR4 back in the 1970's it pains me to see you doing only a partial restoration of this TR4. But I understand your reasoning. I'm going to try to drive up from Virginia to the 6Pack event to see this car and meet you both. Wish I had a TR-something to drive up in, but I'm reliving my TR4 past vicariously through you guys! Great job.
Hi James, it’s definitely different for me doing this type of restoration…but, in a way it’s pretty liberating not having to worry about every dent or scratch in the body work. The underneath of the car, engine bay and passenger compartment should be pretty good by the end of the project. See you at the TRials!
Nice job guys! I do need to mention an observation, as no good job goes uncriticized. David, I saw you all ready to get under the car wearing all of the PPE(personal protective equipment) to keep the crap from going in your face, but the video had Elin under the car doing the work.
I am surprised that you did not paint the visible end of the axel and did not, at least, clean up the excess grease from the driveshaft universal. Also, it looked like the driveshaft bolts are too short and not going through the nylon part of the nut. I had the the same issue when purchasing those bolts. It must be nice to have a helper who knows exactly what to do, not just someone who drinks your beer while you do the work. Cheers!
Hi Jim, I cleaned up the rear section and mid section of the bottom of the car and Elin cleaned up the more towards the heelboard and mid section of the car so we split it up a bit...I did mention it in the video with my "fat guy, skinny guy" comment. The visible end of the axle should not be painted as there are shims that sit there to set the axle endfloat. This needs to be a clean surface and not painted. The universal joints were cleaned up of old grease and new grease was pumped in before it was fitted back to the car. The bolts are specific tolerance machined bolts and nyloc nuts for the driveshaft. Both Grade 8 and brand new. Absolutely! Elin and I work well together and enjoy spending time in the garage on a common project.
@@cheftush I meant the part of the axel that sticks out of the hole in the brake drum, with the nut and cotter pin. As far as the fat guy, skinny guy response, you could have raised the vehicle more.
I hope you understand that my comments are mostly humorous, I really like the work you guys do.
Was I correct about the driveshaft bolt lengths?
@@jimconklin8040 understood Jim. I’ll check the driveshaft bolts again but they were purchased specifically from Goodparts along with the Ujoints.
Cool
Lots of awkward uncomfortable work - done!
My diff was leaking oil out the pinion area after putting a new seal in. It turned out it was coming out the threads and once I put some sealer on the threads, it stopped. It wasn't a lot, but wouldn't hurt to do this in the future to save a couple drips on the floor.
I should say spline area, not so much threads.
Ok, here are the seals being replaced. Yeah, I guess that make sense to paint first then the old seals and gaskets hide the metal in the places you need.
Yep!
If there's minimum play on the ring gear I guess that means that the "lash" between the pinion and
the ring gear is OK ?
Are the lever shocks cast aluminum or steel. I just bought a a brand new lever shock. It comes unpainted. The original is leaking through the oil seal at the arm. One day I might send it to Apple hydraulics. Can I leave the new casting unpainted?
They are aluminum. Yes, they can be left unpainted. Nos imports is a really good rebuilder of lever shocks.
First??
You are! You win a cookie!