Problem is the screws are not strong enough to prevent treated 5/4 board from cupping. I know this video is not new. Bur i wish you would chime in. Id like to know what that deck looks like now. And if there were any screw failures.
treeated lumber needs to be as tight as possible when you install....it shrinks to a minimum of 1/4 to 3/8 gap.... use the 1/16 inch camo tool instead.. this deck will have 5/8 gaps in a year
I will be using this system on my replacement deck. I just have one question. What about the end of the boards when you only have the ends on half of the joist?
how's it hold up after 10 years? I bought it to try but didn't seem like the screws went in very deep or caught much of the deck board. Seems like with the small head they would pull through after a few years of walking on it.
Скорее сомнут доску террасы под верхней резьбой шурупа и доска пойдёт гулять. Kreg надёжнее. Шурупы с двумя резьбами хорошо для тонких досок, при их большом количестве в доске и при дополнительном описании досок на что-то кроме шурупов.
@@nikki-xc9kh yeah I’d like to see a deck after a few years before I’d want to use them. The screws are just like trim screws that say not to use to fasten deck boards. I guess being at an angle may help but I don’t see them lasting.
My 5/4 red cedar deck boards haven't budged in ten years of extreme eastern Canadian weather using the Camo 1⅞ fasteners and Marksman Pro. Armchair engineer all you want, this system works.
@@SameGuy42 good to know. I was actually just curious, not saying it doesn’t work. I would assume it works better too with cedar vs pressure treated that warps and bows terribly sometimes. I also was using it on treated 2x6s when I tried it out so not much of the screw was catching the joists.
thanks for your reply and input. Sad that when a great tool is invented they force you to use their overexpensive custom supplies. Reminds me of the printer Epson which is very cheap and garbage - you can buy the entire printer with all 4 colors for less than what the replacement ink costs.
thanks for the update and the input. Well it for sure looks nice and professional - big difference in the result not seeing the heads at all. As always a better job and quality costs more. I have to pay about 11 cents/screw locally and if you use 1000 for a big deck that is about $110 just in screws. If you want the rustfree those are about 3X more!
yeah everything with better quality has a higher price tag. You're right that it is kind of worth the extra and if you are a pro carpenter you just convnce the customer who pays the bill!
J'aurai aimé avoir (acheter) mais impossible de trouver en France, quelqu’un a une solution ? I shall have liked having (to buy) but impossible to find in France, somebody has a solution?
hahaha! First off, the Camo i drawn out of position while screewing, the as he corrects this, it leaves a huge black mark. Notice his trying to avoid filming the screw that missed the board. Now, one out of 2 screews went well in this movie, that makes a total of 50% chance to do this right. I can do better with a hammer, still using screws.
Steffen Arning It only did that because he wasnt holding the tool in place as he was trying to hold the camera. Ive used the tool on many jobs and even a muppet could use this easily with great results.
I've built a lot of pt decks with the marksman pro X-1. The X-1 is a 1/16th inch gap. Works out great. I do make sure my lumber is at 30% moisture or lower. Probably 95% of the pt decks I've done with the camo were 2x6 #1 ground contact rated. I prefer 2x to 5/4 by a long shot. I ease the edges with my router, and use the longer screws. Works fantastic. No issues at all over many years. Been using it since it came out. So idk almost a decade. Really a great system. I try not to do PT decks. But when people want the best look at a cheap price and no decking warranty (per say.... I always give a structural warranty, but that's it on PT), I'll use good quality PT, and use the camo system. I also over frame everything. And never do my deck boards splice at a single joist. I prefer doing feature boards and borders to split long or wide decks. I was very skeptical of the system originally, but this many years later..... Pretty dang good 👍
@@MostlyPeacefulCombatVet Hi, i bought the X-1, but my pt boards which I bought a month earlier seem to have the same width as my old board which I am replacing. So isn't 1/16 gap too small for my case? I checked the moisture by sprinkling water on the board and it doesn't absorb. Thanks!
![ฮักเทื่อสุดท้าย - บอย ศิริชัย [OFFICIAL MV]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/-1PoPoQ-B-k/mqdefault.jpg)
Nice and informative. Great that you mentioned unscrewing part to remove a board. That was the only thing I wasn't sure of. Thanks!
Problem is the screws are not strong enough to prevent treated 5/4 board from cupping. I know this video is not new. Bur i wish you would chime in. Id like to know what that deck looks like now. And if there were any screw failures.
treeated lumber needs to be as tight as possible when you install....it shrinks to a minimum of 1/4 to 3/8 gap.... use the 1/16 inch camo tool instead.. this deck will have 5/8 gaps in a year
I’m getting some 5/4x6” decking from HD soon. I looked at it and it’s soaking wet. It’ll shrink like you said, right? So make em tight?
You are exactly correct.
Plan on parking on that deck! Do I see 2x12s!?? Nice looking work. From what I could see anyways. Love that tool. Use it on every deck build.
Thank you nice video bought one today (single lady) wondering how it worked!
I will be using this system on my replacement deck. I just have one question. What about the end of the boards when you only have the ends on half of the joist?
***** You should scab on another piece of wood to the joist where you have a butt joint so that both deck board ends have full support.
how's it hold up after 10 years? I bought it to try but didn't seem like the screws went in very deep or caught much of the deck board. Seems like with the small head they would pull through after a few years of walking on it.
Скорее сомнут доску террасы под верхней резьбой шурупа и доска пойдёт гулять. Kreg надёжнее. Шурупы с двумя резьбами хорошо для тонких досок, при их большом количестве в доске и при дополнительном описании досок на что-то кроме шурупов.
This is exactly what I read happens in some cases.
@@nikki-xc9kh yeah I’d like to see a deck after a few years before I’d want to use them. The screws are just like trim screws that say not to use to fasten deck boards. I guess being at an angle may help but I don’t see them lasting.
My 5/4 red cedar deck boards haven't budged in ten years of extreme eastern Canadian weather using the Camo 1⅞ fasteners and Marksman Pro. Armchair engineer all you want, this system works.
@@SameGuy42 good to know. I was actually just curious, not saying it doesn’t work. I would assume it works better too with cedar vs pressure treated that warps and bows terribly sometimes. I also was using it on treated 2x6s when I tried it out so not much of the screw was catching the joists.
3/16 Marksman?? Why not use the 1/16 version on pressure treated wood? Your gaps will be even larger when the wood dries
and how about those black marks it leaves on the adjacent board?
How much this tools.
so as the tool is quite expensive - and so are their unique screws - is there no way to buy some other similar kind of deck screws?
John C there are other systems that might be less, Kregg jig makes one. I don't believe you can use any other screws with it
thanks for your reply and input. Sad that when a great tool is invented they force you to use their overexpensive custom supplies. Reminds me of the printer Epson which is very cheap and garbage - you can buy the entire printer with all 4 colors for less than what the replacement ink costs.
thanks for the update and the input. Well it for sure looks nice and professional - big difference in the result not seeing the heads at all. As always a better job and quality costs more. I have to pay about 11 cents/screw locally and if you use 1000 for a big deck that is about $110 just in screws. If you want the rustfree those are about 3X more!
yeah everything with better quality has a higher price tag. You're right that it is kind of worth the extra and if you are a pro carpenter you just convnce the customer who pays the bill!
@Moon Pie Think you can buy thinner spacers for the tool.
Чудова система. Отримую справжнє задоволення, працюючи нею.
Bought one today !
How do you screw the board adjacent to a wall? Impossible!
L brackets underneath or other hardware from under.
Cami had a video to explain this
How do you screw the board that overhangs? By that I mean the last board.
In the one side and then the top of the board
From underneath up into it.
J'aurai aimé avoir (acheter) mais impossible de trouver en France, quelqu’un a une solution ?
I shall have liked having (to buy) but impossible to find in France, somebody has a solution?
Dufayet R Amozon
will it work on 2 X 6
Nope ……
yes@@jimmygunz6762
Yes you use the 2 3/8
Screws
What did you coat the tops of your joists with?
Looks like he had a little sprinkle or rain,, just enough to make to tops wet! Just a guess!
Id like to know what you used on the top of your joists to protect?
Im looking for an alternative from rubber.
Let me know
Thx
hahaha! First off, the Camo i drawn out of position while screewing, the as he corrects this, it leaves a huge black mark. Notice his trying to avoid filming the screw that missed the board. Now, one out of 2 screews went well in this movie, that makes a total of 50% chance to do this right. I can do better with a hammer, still using screws.
Steffen Arning It only did that because he wasnt holding the tool in place as he was trying to hold the camera. Ive used the tool on many jobs and even a muppet could use this easily with great results.
There is no way I'd use these on treated lumber, hardwood, composite etc is fine, but treated just moves way too much.
I've built a lot of pt decks with the marksman pro X-1. The X-1 is a 1/16th inch gap. Works out great. I do make sure my lumber is at 30% moisture or lower. Probably 95% of the pt decks I've done with the camo were 2x6 #1 ground contact rated. I prefer 2x to 5/4 by a long shot. I ease the edges with my router, and use the longer screws. Works fantastic. No issues at all over many years. Been using it since it came out. So idk almost a decade. Really a great system. I try not to do PT decks. But when people want the best look at a cheap price and no decking warranty (per say.... I always give a structural warranty, but that's it on PT), I'll use good quality PT, and use the camo system. I also over frame everything. And never do my deck boards splice at a single joist. I prefer doing feature boards and borders to split long or wide decks. I was very skeptical of the system originally, but this many years later..... Pretty dang good 👍
@@MostlyPeacefulCombatVet Hi, i bought the X-1, but my pt boards which I bought a month earlier seem to have the same width as my old board which I am replacing. So isn't 1/16 gap too small for my case? I checked the moisture by sprinkling water on the board and it doesn't absorb. Thanks!
that just looks like there could be a better way.
thank you for the worst possible camera angles possible.
Noice
охуенная вещь!