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FUJIFILM Dynamic range DR400 in RAW??!! This feature might change your photography!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 11 ก.ค. 2021
- FUJIFILM Dynamic range DR400 in RAW??!! This feature might change your photography!
A common debate I stumble upon in Fujifilm photography forums; 'does the DR100-400 option affect the camera RAW file?' With lots who are adamant it doesn't, I thought id put this little video together to demonstrate otherwise.
It's a very handy photography tool, ill admit I never use it myself other than for video. but this little experiment might have changed that..
let me know in the comment if you use it?.
thanks for watching, Ga :-)
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#fujifilm #dr400raw #bestfujifilmcamerasettings
I tried using DR400 the other day when shooting a sunset. Made a huge difference. DR100 just kind of blended in all the colors together, while DR400 showed all the gradients and did a good job separating them. I liked your video and subscribed to your channel!
thanks darren.. i think itll be a great feature to use.. i need to do more testing for tones tho :-)
@@GarethDanks it is worth to work in DR400 Eterna/Classic chrome in 8bit if I dont have external recorder to record in 10bit, or it dont works well with 8bit? Because I discovered, that working with Flog in 8 bit isnt worth it... or maybe I'm wrong?
@@grzegorzporowinski exactly, I just baked in the film simulation look with dr400. there is no need to use log with 8bit on fuji. my xh1 i shoot with dr400 and -4 highlight and 10 bit with xs20
I use this setting on a regular basis for indoor real estate photography with flambient (flash) technique. Not only do I get great dynamic range - my strobes are also essentially more powerful at the higher ISO sensitivity.
Thanks, Gareth. I've only been at this about a year, but you're making good sense. Appreciate your tips!
Side note, if you're simply looking for what will give the least noise, it's DR200 at ISO 500
Topaz is even better!!!🤣
Why? Shouldn't be iso 160?
Love this. Trying to chat to people online about Dynamic Range feels like talking to flat earthers. No matter what question you ask, you get a mishmash of 'explanations' that don't seem to match the evidence. Your video (and a few others) are a major relief. Like you, I did my own tests (at ISO 800+) and couldn't see any notable loss in shadow detail, but better highlights.
it's great, it's not as good as exposure bracketing, but unlike bracketing you can use it with moving subjects. It may make some images look flat, but it's just giving more range to your tone curve, you can easily get that contrast back in light room with an S curve.
I discovered this last year, and in my street and event photography, I shoot dr400 exclusively. The reason being is that it gives a more natural roll off in the highlight. It looks way more filmic and you see detail and color in areas that would have been clipped.
I rented a Leica m11, and despite the wonderful features added to this model, it all fall short compared to how fuji handles the unpredictability of street photography. The clipped highlight on the Leica ruin an otherwise beautiful tonal range. Literally it just clips. As in sound being clipped, it just ruins the content.
And I refuse to “expose for the right of the histogram” which means to underexpose you image and walk around with dark images on your back LCD, promising your subject you will “fix it in post”… something sooooo “aughts” … from a $15k summilux/m11 combo. Meanwhile Fuji’s do it in camera, literally.
IMHO, digital camera should be tuned to this mode. Iso invariance is great in saving underexposed images… a selling point of digital for almost two decades. However these high mp cameras have been getting poorer highlight retention.
I find that the dr400 mode, along with a highlight tone of -2 gives you a very filmic image… one that can live in a high key environment if desired with little if any highlight clipping.
Even civilians react to this mode, albeit with their civilian descriptions like “retro” or “is this film” as they share at the back of the camera… 😂😵💫
The other thing: we are competing with smartphones immediate hdr images.
Hey Gareth, great video - particularly as I was about to search for this very subject! I watched a TH-cam video when I first got my X-H1 last year and for whatever reason was convinced to change my DR to 400 and I’ve left it there ever since. It was only yesterday that I realised I’ve been shooting at ISO 800 even in bright conditions! 🤦🏻♂️ in fairness, I’ve not been disappointed by the results (and in my defence we had a baby at about the same time so I’m a sleep deprived man now) so I’m thinking is there really an issue. But I notice you’ve suggested images may look flat - so now I’m intrigued as to what I’ve perhaps been missing out on! Simple solution I guess - I’ll give auto DR a go and use the actually Auto ISO settings I thought I was using. Although if Aleksander is correct, I may end up back at DR400.
Apols for length of comment guys.
Very useful having the side by side comparison here. Thanks for sharing and going through the details on the differences here!
Glad it was helpful! :-)
I think it was Pal2Tech who pointed me to this years ago, showing that the DR setting affects the Raw file. This was a revelation as I live in Australia which in summer has very harsh light with extreme contrast. While my Canon DSLR has a similar feature, I never knew about it or used it, since it's hidden in the menu, but in my Fuji, it's front and centre and made more user friendly. I learned to trust it implicitly, when outside shooting, I ALWAYS use Auto ISO with Auto DR, as experience tells me it only activates when the highlights will otherwise get blown. And I would rather risk slightly noisier shadows than a blown sky, although I have yet to see any noisy shadows as a result. Besides, Auto DR only goes to DR200, but it is enough. I also use ETTR, which means keeping an eye on the histogram and using exposure compensation, often +2/3 or +1 depending. With my old Canon, I often would shoot a 3-bracket exposure to preserve the sky in post (throwing out the -1 exposure). It was a pain, and required a steady shot and trees not moving. I occasionally bracket with my Fuji as a precaution, but has not yet had to use them, as the information is right there in the Raw. This feature alone makes my Fuji invaluable for walkabout photography.
PS: If you wanna see what's going on in the Raw file, use Fast Raw Viewer, made by the people who make LibRaw, it is the only program (apart from their own Raw Digger) that will show you a Raw histogram. It can be very educational to see how much leeway you actually have in your file, and how much noise is in the shadows. Personally I use it to do initial filtering and rating of portrait shoots since it is so fast and doesn't require an import or lengthy thumbnail preview generation. Initial import and metadata tagging is handled by Photo Mechanic. Additional tagging by Exiftool for my manual lenses as well as Sigma & Tamron lenses for my Canon, as well as embedding metadata into the RAF files themselves (having processed tens of thousands of Raw files, I trust it implicitly)
My understanding is that Auto DR only selects between 100 or 200, it won't ever select 400. Personally I leave mine on 200 and switch to 400 sometimes if I think it's needed.
@@mcbrineellis That’s right. I use Auto because if it doesn’t need to go DR200, it doesn’t, which is preferable. I mostly don’t bother with DR400, but try it now and then.
Great vid and info Gareth but not sure if the best option is to use DR400 or expose for the highlights as mentioned below, I must say that I am still trying to understand the XT3, I'm a canon person really.
Interesting video. Wonder if the differences would be as noticeable on a properly exposed but contrasting scene.
I pretty much keep DR400 always on, unless I'm using film recipes that don't use it. Pal2Tech also has a nice video that explains in a similar way.
Not to mention Fuji sensors are ISO invariant, adjusting exposure in post has barely any noticeable loss of quality. Maybe about 5% more noise or so. Negligible for social media and internet publishing.
ISO invariance doesn’t mean you don’t lose quality, it just means there is no difference in boosting the image in post or in camera, so if you shot at iso 160 and pushed the exposure up 4 stops in post, it would look the same as if you shot with the ISO up 4 stops.
Never used this feature on my XT30, but I am gonna give it a try, Thanks for sharing Gareth.
No problem 👍cheers for watching john :-)
The DR200/DR400 setting simply underexposes and then the camera raises the shadows. You achieve the same with DR100 by underexposing in camera (with exposure compensation) to protect the highlights and then you raise shadows in capture one. In both cases you will find that shadows end up noisier. The question is does the camera fix the shadows better or does capture one/lightroom? DR is therefore useful for JPEGS because when you underexpose, JPEGS will have very dark shadows and no way to recover them. But if you underexpose in RAW the information is there which you can bring up in post.
No, this is not the case. DR is highlight recovery, not highlight protection. It's actually saving a copy of the highlights just before they started to overexpose
How does it underexpose if it is shooting at a higher iso?
Thank you for this, could you show the difference in noise in the darkest parts of the images
You can shoot in dr400 and see the effect of dr100 & 200 & 400 in the fuji RAW app just by toggling the feature in the raw converter.
You can see the color and detail that dr400 retains in the highlights there.
yes but you use ISO 800 for all 3 photos, try ISO 160 with Dr 100 and you recover almost the same data from high light and shadow..
Thanks Gareth.......so....what about Dynamic Range Priority? When it is enabled, it disables the DR settings. Would it pay to perhaps stick with Dynamic Range Priority? Your views on this other setting? Cheers
Thanks for this Gareth, I always have either used auto or 100,. What this little exercise as now opened up lots of feedback in the comments, good comments as well. Keep em coming. Michael.
Glad it was helpful! Appreciate you watching mate!
Nice. Always wondered what this does, gonna try with my Xt3 later 🤘
cheers jamie.. :-)
This is so useful. Thanks Gareth.
Appreciate that Kane 😊👍🏻
Gareth you said you are going to take the three shots using the X-T3, but those images in Lightroom were taken on an X-T4.
What happens when you pull up the shadows?
Because my understanding of the DR-modes is, that what it really does is underexposing your shot by 1 (DR200) or 2 stops (DR400), to protect highlights, and then pull up the shadows via a modified tone-curves.
Obviously, this affects your RAW file because you have underexposed!
However your RAW processor will show you an image with the tone curve applied that the camera used, so you don't see that.
This can affect your image quality if you need to further pull up the shadows from your image, beyond what the camera already did. You are more likely to find more noise in the shadows when shooting with DR400, than with DR100.
After realising this, I stopped shooting with the DR modes and will just watch my histogram for blown out highlights.
Was just going to comment the same thing, you are absolutely correct, you would be better served just exposing for the highlights in a high dynamic range scene, and lifting the shadows to your taste
I don't think that's right, though. The shot's actual exposure (via shutter speed and aperture) remains the same and isn't adulterated by the DR setting. Instead, it's about how the camera applies brightening as it converts to RAW. But Pal2Tech etc explained it better than I can. Also I've tested it and, like Gareth here and others, found no visible loss of detail in the shadows no matter how much I pixel peeped (except, of course, if I would have been shooting on my absolute minimum ISOs, which DR doesn't allow).
I always shoot at DR200 but rarely use it in post because photos really look flat after putting whites down.
I need to do a test shoot. Shame you can’t turn it 100-400 after in camera
I’ve used DR 400 since day one . Fuji x100v . Interesting comparison though mate.
Cheers dude. So that’s why your pictures are all flat 😂
A very interesting observation.
I’ve had my X100V set at 200 since day dot out of the box. Might give it a try higher. Also wonder if just sticking it on Auto would work ok 🤷🏻♂️🤣
No mate. Auto doesn’t use 400 for some reason 😊
Great content Gareth. Did you, by any chance cover how does the DR AUTO behave comparing to the DR200 DR400? I am using the DR400 since the first day for Stills, now I am playing with video and my X-E3 doesn't allow DR changes, only default AUTO option is automatically set. Any idea about the DRAuto algorithm if I have the ISO set to 800 all the time?
DR Auto switches between DR 100 and 200 depending on your iso. Once it surpasses an iso threshold, it proceeds to the next DR setting. It only switches between 100 and 200 though, it doesn’t go to DR 400
love raw
Awesome, just need to be aware on those times when you need a base ISO . Or you think those scenarios don’t matter much because of the iso invariant sensors?
Damn good question. Ermmmmm I’ve seen charts to say 640 is the best iso on any invariant sensor. But like you say at base iso I bet there wouldn’t be much in it. Faster shutter and smaller ap being your advantage at 640 v 160. 🤔
Great video. I'm going to have a play myself (not with myself).
erm... Have fun! haha
@@GarethDanks Hahahahaha.
I think people are confusing DR with highlight protection, or highlight priory. DR is highlight recovery, it's actually saving the highlights at a different iso and baking it into a jpeg. I'm sure it's not really effecting the raw files but the curves being applied are developed by Fuji and are picked up in the fuji editing software
The DR setting does alter the RAW file, which is a great thing, and why I always use it as I shoot RAW. I use Auto ISO with Auto DR, so it is only applied when highlights would otherwise have blown. There is not discernible difference in noise.
Hi Gareth did you know there's a focus shift/stacking menu on the Z7
There is on most cameras mate.. I just prefer doing it manually 😊
If you shoot ETTR, is DR400 recommended if you’re already saving the highlight details?
Depends on what you’re shooting. I avoid dr400 as it’s a bit too flat for me. If it’s a high contrast scene it’s idea. Do some testing. Better still record some video in each. That’ll show you. Dr200 doesn’t need much editing imo.
Could be a stupid question but is DR200/400 similar to HDR in that it takes a few shots in quick succession, therefore wouldn't work so well with particularly fast moving shots?
Fantastic point re the moving subject. No it’s a single shot so yeah big advantage 😊
@@GarethDanks Ah yeah, that's massive - thanks Gareth, had always assumed it was just a JPG thing!
Useful and terse - less than 8 mins, this one. Nice.
haha.. good going for me!! talk for wales haha
Cheers Gareth for the heads up :-)
Thanks for watching mate
@@GarethDanks Always follow your vlogs.
Mad that, been shooting Fuji for years and have never touched the DR mode. Left at 100%
Haha. Me too. Assumed it’d give me weird tones
you're using the same SS? doesn't that change the exposure.
I actually turned off DR400 the other day thinking it compressed the entire photo, went out and took a macro of a ladybug and oh boy did I regret it once I realised the sun reflection on the bug was unrecoverable, lession learned, DR400 it is
Can anyone tell me why the option DR 400 is greyed out on my camera, I’m using the Fuji x-t30ii and I can’t use the DR 400 for certain film recipes
And I tested raising my iso and makes no difference
Are you shooting jpg only or raw?
@@GarethDanks I actually just turned on & off the camera then deleted the film simulation and redid it & that fixed it. Thank you for the quick reply though!
It’s greyed out because your iso is less than 640. Turn up the iso and the 400 will become selectable.
Hey up Gaza, interestingly, I’ve never really known what to put the DR setting on? I have an XT3 and a X-A10 and tend to leave them in DR Auto.
Am I doing it all wrong dude?
I generally shoot Raw + JPEG.
Regards,
Dazza. 🇬🇧
Auto alternates between DR100 and DR200, but won't use DR400
Hey man haha. It’s ok to leave as you are. I’d change it when I felt I needed to 😊
I always shoot outside with Auto ISO and Auto DR. Experience tells me the camera only activates it when the sky would have otherwise been blown. Makes all the difference in the harsh Australian sun.
Shoot raw, use base iso and expose to right.
Indeed. But why have fuji created this feature? Is it a fib?
@@GarethDanks to be able to get properly exposed jpgs (without overblown highlights or too underexposed shadows) straight out of the camera. Fuji cameras seem to be very much geared towards giving you the best possible tools to get great jpgs
@@GarethDanks Nope, no fib. Great feature. Auto ISO and Auto DR always for me when shooting outside. If you want high-contrast arty shots with white blown sky, it doesn't matter. If you want to preserve subtle cloud on an overcast day or the blue of a sunny day, DR200 with a stop higher ISO is far better than underexposing and trying to fix in post or just blowing it out altogether. As you can tell from DPReview's test charts, shooting at a higher ISO is ALWAYS better than underexposing by the same amount and fixing in post, because onboard processing straight off the sensor before writing to a Raw file avoids the problem of Raw files storing less information in the shadows than it does in the midtones or the highlights due to the inverse logarithmic tone curve applied before writing the file.
It might be better if you photographed a more difficult scene.
I stopped watching when you said that DR option is similar to iPhone HDR. DR option is single exposure, HDR on iPhone is multi frame exposure. That is not similar at all