The reason I didn't shoot the reassembly was because I literally had my hands full with all the bits and pieces. So, the substance of your critique is fair -- if not your tone. I do, however feel the video is still useful in showing many steps in this job. This was shot in my driveway with a hand-held camera and zero budget. Your cost for viewing this video: free.
Used your video to repair the steering column for my 91 GMC Sierra pickup. I've used the truck mostly for hauling stuff, picking up lumber for home projects, etc. It's great to have a pickup truck even if you only need it occasionally :). Anyway, I'm using it a little more now as my son repairs mowers and we use it to pick up equipment to be repaired. I thought I should go ahead and take care of the loose column. It took me about 6 hours to get it done. It wouldn't have taken so long if not for a couple of small pieces that fell out as I was removing, and had to figure out where they went. One thing I had trouble with, perhaps it's different with the GMC Sierra, was removing the assembly after your comments at 10:39 (removing tilt mechanism lever). After removing the tilt mechanism lever, I moved the assembly up, down, sideways, but could see it was hinged across the top. I wasn't sure if I had to hammer that pin out, or what. I watched your video again, and noticed while you were removing the lever, you said "you'll have to put it back on". So, I put it back on, pulled on it and the assembly detached from the horizontal pin across the top of the column. Hmm, I just noticed something else while writing my comments and reviewing your video. A note popped up on your video about a centering pin at the bottom of the spring removed just before 10:39. I didn't remove the centering pin. I do recall seeing it while working on my steering. Well, I'm not pulling it all apart to see if it's still there. I didn't see it on my floor board, so I'm guessing it's still in place. Everything seems to be fine. There's no way I could have done this without your video. Thanks for taking the time to record and post. William
William Heffernan I'm sure there's a way to edit my post above, but can't find it right away. I wanted to comment as well, I had to remove a panel below the steering column exposing some wiring. I was able to pull part of the wiring away from a point to which it was attached giving my more slack in the wiring to enable manipulating the various components.
William Heffernan This is definitely one of those jobs that goes along simply enough until that moment in which you realize you're way out over your skis. In this case the hard part is keeping track of all the little parts that have nothing to do with the actual repair but still need to be dealt with. BTW: I had this Suburban for the exact same reason you have your truck. The transmission died on it a few months ago so I junked it. Now I need to find a reasonably functional truck that makes sense from a cost perspective. Glad you got it done, William. Have a great week.
Robert Charpentier Thank you, sir. Have a great week as well. LOL, typically, I'll lay parts out in the order in which I take them off/apart. At least that way I have an idea of what goes where as they go back on. I never stepped out of my pickup except to remove the panel below the column. Since I was sitting in the cab of my pickup, there was limited space to lay things out in a logical order. I was getting a little concerned as parts started mounting. They were on the floor board, dash, sitting on my opened glove compartment, on the passenger seat, etc. But, thanks again to your video, I got it back together. I'm really excited about the steering wheel in my old pickup not moving all over the place.
William Heffernan Pre-mark sandwich bags 1, 2, 3, etc. First group of parts/screws/bolts goes into #1, second group into #2 etc. Reverse the order when reassembling.
Many thanks for this Robert from a shade-tree ''mechanic''! Same here on the lunch deal if you ever get to Boston! I was told when I asked for them at 'Autozone': those inverted Torx sockets are known a s 'E sockets'. Great demo! Thanks again! -Tim ('84 GMC truck)
HA!! COOL JUST SAW YOUR LINK THAT SHOW A CLOSEUP OF THE HIGH BEAM SWITCH ROD AND THAT PLASTIC PEICE I DIDNT KNOW HOW TO RE INSTALL IT I THINK AFTER SEEING THAT PIC ON 27 I CAN TACKLE THIS. THANKS SO MUCH FOR TAKING THE TIME TO CREATE THIS VIDEO YOU HAVE HELPED ME OUT GREATLY !! AND I THANK YOU FOR THAT.
Sure beats buying a rebuilt column for anywhere between $250-$500 What helped me was the talking points about the tools and switch parts... I failed to complete this project because of the lack of understanding about all the swict parts and how they go back together.... Thanks for the lesson.
Thanks a lot for this detailed instructions on how to fix loose steering. I have here a 1988 GMC Jimmy Sierra Classic with this kind of problem and repairing this one from a certified workshop cost a lot.
Great video, thank you i've been hesitating to do this to my 92' GMC Sierra. Didn't really know what i would be getting into, throw an engine in front of me and i'll do as you wish but electrical and stuff like this i am clueless. Your video helped a ton and gave me insight towards the job. Thanks again and you should make more video's.
We found out the trick for removing that inner casing @ 11:15. Reinstall the tilt lever. straighten out the shaft, pull back on the lever and it releases the two feet holding it in place and the inner case slides up and out exposing the joint and bolts. Me thinks you accidentally missed that step in your video. But hey, that's why I check other video sources. Thanks for you video nonetheless.
After fighting my way through the maze GM calls a steering column on my 85 cutlass I found out that: a) The upper bearings are toast. plastic cages were broken into a million little pieces. b) The damn bolts were actually tight. c) The steering column STILL wobbles. It seems like the lower bearings (or possibly something else down the column) are the culprit here. Thanks a bunch though. Definitely helped me out!
I've tightened a few screws in steering columns, but never got all the way down onto the side pivot. I'll have to get the little puller bolts, and give it a try! Thx...
Thanks for the video, Im pretty mechanically inclined but never did more than pull a steering wheel. Im confident with the aide of your video I can do this repair
i have a 85 c10 that had this same problem your video was extremely helpful just wanted to say thank you for your helpful video... one more thing i also ran in to a issue making sure the ignition side/clip lines up properly but again thank you alot for the helpful video
Definitely was a great help. After breaking two pivot pin remover tools in the pins, I was unable to remove them, but was still able to remove two of the three bolts and put lock tight on them. Assembly video could of helped out. That damn dimmer switch and that free float plastic piece that pushes on the rod for the head lights...... Nightmare from bell and took forever to figure that out. But thank you again.
Glad it helped. Yes, the dimmer-switch issue is a total puzzle. There may have been some cursing and wrench throwing in the parts of the video I edited out.
A great job it was. I am planning to do the job on my silverado 1989 4.3 v6. It has the same tilting steering wheel. I still need to buy the plate ring removal tool. It will be the first time I will do it. My truck is a 1989 Silverado 4.3 model 1500 v6. A nice truck with manual transmission . 4 speed with O/drive plus reverse. Thanks from the island of Aruba.
trying to do this, the piece you are wiggling free at the 11:14 on mine is loose and rotates around without even taking out the pivot pins (which i'm waiting on the remover tool as stores here don't carry it) is that normal? my tilt column has been loose for a bit and last night it got really messed up and now I also can't start the truck nor do lights work. and the steering wheel kinda hangs limp. could the steering column be messing up all the other stuff too. or am i looking at another problem on top of the tilt wheel. thanks
It sounds like you have a lot of stuff going on there, and it's hard to know without looking at it. I would just double check all your switches and wiring connectors to make sure you didn't accidentally pull something loose. It may help to look through these diagrams to get a better idea how everything is supposed to connect: www.crankshaftcoalition.com/wiki/images/d/d6/Jazzman_Steering_Rack_Rebuild.pdf
This was very helpful. I perticularly like your last answer. Now I have disassembled an 87 dodge column. Almost identical. however, the key lock isn't the same and I can't get it out???
I appreciate the video.....just did this job! One thing I did was take the steering rod out and then I had access to all 4 (I had 4 not 3) torkx bolts with the correct socket. Took just 5 mins. and one bolt under the hood on the steering rod (and knuckle that is in the way) slid out of the way of the bolts.
The rod you were talking about being careful when u disassemble the steering column..how do you reassemble it..I'm ready to put my steering back together..I had to that tilt problem Like u and I'm stuck at the rod idk what to do with it or how to put it back together I never pulled it out its still in there but I'm at a loss
Hi Robert your video was very helpful. Considering I just bought my 91 k1500 for work commute. My problem lies in the turn signals. My hazards work and flash properly both outside and in the dash. But using the lever both L/R doesn't indicate anything. None of the lights turn on. But my brake lights do work. I've replaced both the flasher and turn signal relay. And replaced all fuses under the dash. So I planned on using your video too get me to the turn signal switch and making sure the connections are good. Ive also read that making sure its grounded properly. From where am I looking to confirm its grounded? Any help will be greatly appreciated.
Robert I have a problem.... I performed this whole procedure and managed to get my tilt steering part nice and tight, feels great. But my steering wheel or better yet pivot ball/arm is still very loose. Even more so than when the tilt part was jiggling around with it. Could that be those bearings in there or something else all together? My tilt part of the column is nice and tight but after reassembly my steering wheel is flopping around like crazy. By the way thank you so much for this video, I sat in my truck with a tablet and was able to follow your steps perfectly.
thank you for the video. man Do you know, wether this four spoke steering wheel fits to 80s Suburbans with the two spoke steering wheel with three screws?
to all those who are still having issues getting the top to come loose. I just did this on ine, reinsert the tilt control arm and pull it forewards, it will come loose this way, because its actually connected by 2 large gears on top that are connected to the tilt
I just followed your instructions, but I ran into a snag putting it back together. There is a metal band that I believe goes to the steering wheel lock assembly. I am pretty sure it is one of the first areas on reassembly. It is a metal band that resembles the smile on a smiley face about 3/4 - 1 " across. This is directly on the opposite side of the key ignition. Any feedback would be great.
Lee Darling Hey, Lee. I'm not completely sure what you're describing. Is this it: www.crankshaftcoalition.com/wiki/images/d/d6/Jazzman_Steering_Rack_Rebuild.pdf#page=22
Sorry I didn't get back to you, I found your link www.crankshaftcoalition.com/wiki/images/d/d6/Jazzman_Steering_Rack_Rebuild.pdf The step by step breakdown is awesome. Whoever took the time to put that together is a lifesaver.
Lee Darling Believe it or not, that breakdown is for a steering column in a Fiero. It just goes to show you how much the same GM cars are from one model to the next.
Would my 89 blazer have the same process because my steering column is really loose and it just recently started to turn the blazer off and i was thinking what can cause this short?
KC Cochran look down below the steering column and take off the plastic trim right under the column and take off the metal trim that has 4 or 5 screws which will expose the wires that run up through the column. I took off the bracket that has 4 1/2in screws and unplugged the cable which allowed me enough cable
Too bad you can't just throw a hole or two in the cover piece to access it the next time without all the disassembly. Them cover it with a rubber sewer line hose fitting or something that approximate size isn't it? What difference would a fatter column cover make that moves up and down ? to access the monster?
i m in middle os this but on a 1972 chevy c 10 ,, no key ig on col its on dash. can't get the solid inner chunk housing out . to get to the bolts to tighten the upper shaft ,, the upper shaft bearing seems good .. might need to get a third bolt 12-24 thread 3 inches long and pull like the wheel unless theres another trick ,, ugh my tilt is wobbly just like the 91 in your vid .
Do you think this would work for a 1986 buick lesabre? My steering wheel does the same thing and I figured it would be similar because it's a Older model GM
We found the same kind of repair and parts needed for our Van. I forgot to tell you that it was 1990. I find it interesting that GMC has failed to solve the problem after even 15 years.
Hey Robert, Barry here. 1990 Chevy k1500. Tilt pins are out and I've been trying to snake the housing off for an hour. Bottom half is free but the top is not. Any possibility my housing has another pin or screw in addition to what you you have described?
The small plastic piece mentioned ( that pushes on bright push rod end ] fell out, After 3 hrs in 100 degree heat. Decided to come ask How in hell does it stay in during assembly. Has radius end against rod end. fits in 1/4 round groove above toward center. Doesn't appear to snap onto turn signal arm end, Just butts to it ?
this vid is pretty useful, but i have something lose behind where thoes 4 bolts are, is there anything back there that needs to be tightened up? or replaced?
i have a 1989 chevy v3500. i thought it was the steering wheel so i took it all apart up to those 4 bolts, removed put blue lock tight on it, but while i was taking the bolts out the housing and something behind it was moving around
+Garrett Owens Sorry Garrett, it would be hard to say what it is without being there to look at it. Here is a very handy guide that breaks down the GM tilt steering column. You may find your answer there: www.crankshaftcoalition.com/wiki/images/d/d6/Jazzman_Steering_Rack_Rebuild.pdf
+Robert Charpentier awesome, thank you. I will look into it. I'm going to do a tear down this weekend to see what the problem is. good thing I have another means to get to work
so i took the steering column apart, well without removing it from the truck, and found out that the steering column jacket assembly is broken, the top part that holds the plate for the rest of it and the bottom of the jacket are cracked or broken off completely, i pulled a piece of it out when i got to that point. now i just need to find a steering column jacket, or a whole new one... know where i could start looking? other then a junk yard...
IMPORTANT!! Make sure you get a high quality pivot extractor. The cheap ones break off and then you are F*****d and can only tighten the bottom two bolts.
@prairieartmetal I actually had enough slack on the wiring harness to pull the upper assembly out of the way but I did see in another video that you can sometimes push a little slack up from the bottom of the steering column. And yes, the dimmer switch linkage was a real puzzle for me. The reason you don't see me dealing with it in the video is because that's the part where I was cursing and throwing wrenches. :-)
AT 11:14 IN THE VIDEO YOU START TO TAKE THE LAST PEICE OF THE PUZZLE OUT BUT YOU DO NOT EXPLAIN HOW IT COMES OUT I COULD NOT GET MINE OUT. I ENDED UP JUST TIGHTENING THE TWO BOTTOM SCREWS AND WERE NOT ABLE TO GET THEM OUT TO LOC TITE THEM AND WHE I PUT EVERYTHING BACK TOGETHER THE BRIGHT SWITCH JUST FLOPS AROUND THERE IS A SMALL BLACK PLASTIC PEICE THAT I DIDNT PAY ATTENTION HOW IT CAME OFF SO I DIDNT KNOW HOW TO REPLACE IT. CAN YOU HELP ME PLEASE
bill shank Hi Bill, I just loosened the screws until I could use a magnet to snag them with. Also, only take them out one at a time--it's a bear to get them all lined up again once all the screws are out.
+Robert Charpentier Not that hard to get them back in, i had to do this maintenance due to all 4 torx bits falling out causing my entire column housing to turn with wheel, separating the ignition linkage. pretty much slaps into place. 1991 chevy blazer s10
@nhellman84 It turns out that the link I provided is no longer active. It's a bummer because the photos made it really easy to understand how some of the components fit together -- and trust me, it's not always obvious.
Thank you for the video. I learned several things. First, it's not a super serious problem. Second, it looks like kind of a pain in the ass. Third, I have a really reasonable mechanic that makes the cost of buying the specialized tools to do the job myself seem kind of silly.
+tedb310 I can't argue with any of this. It was a pain, though far from the most aggravating auto repair I've ever done. I think what drives me nuts about this particular job is that you have to tear down most of the steering column to tighten a couple of screws down. They could have designed it better or at least used a little Lock-tight in the first place.
Great Video, Its the most in depth one on youtube...anyway my 91 dually has this same problem, but before I start pulling it apart, I wanted to make sure I have all the parts, the plastic piece that activates the horn at 6:50 is most likely busted on mine, since the horn doesent work.... do you happen to know where I might find one besides the junkyard? or the proper name for it, I cannot find it anywhere.
***** I think you're talking about the cancel cam. The round plastic thing with a copper ring on one side? The nice thing about GM products is that you can find pretty much every conceivable part at any given parts store. Still, If you know exactly what you're looking for, a pick-n-pull might be the best place to start. Here, read this--bottom of the page and the next page, too: www.crankshaftcoalition.com/wiki/images/d/d6/Jazzman_Steering_Rack_Rebuild.pdf#page=57
Yes, the video is very informative showing many tips and tricks other videos failed to show. But in the process of all this disassembly and reassembly, you failed to also assume that the actual upper steering bearing was okay. Having the steering column totally torn down to this point, it is foolish not to go ahead and check the bearing if not replace it also. as by the time these bolts wiggle loose through normal usage, that bearing is usually worn out too. Having devoted this much time to your video, and including so much useful info in it, you need to also include the removal and replacement of that upper steering column bearing too, would you not think so? I'm not berating you for it, just some helpful hopefully beneficial critique is all.
Good point and something I definitely overlooked when I was doing this job. I was looking for a root cause and not really thinking about a complete overhaul of the assembly. Something to consider for next time. Thank you for the feedback!
Robert, I have a question. I have it taken apart all the way down to removing the final collar, but there is something still holding it in. I believe it may be the tilt paws on top. You skipped that part. Did you remove something else? Thanks for the help!
@prairieartmetal Yeah, I would have been lost without the assembly cut-away images I found. They showed exactly how everything fits together. Too bad they were pulled down.
Robert Charpentier Turns out, my upper bearing inner race (shown on page 56 of the link in the description) was pretty beat up and has difficulty being removed and installed. After popping that off and the preload cup behind it, it came right apart. However, I suppose because of the excessive force I had to put on the upper bearing inner race, maybe I messed it up. It is not putting enough pressure on the preload cup (I assume), because as I put the rest of the assembly together and the shaft moves around in the process, the inner race loosens from the preload cup and the steering wheel becomes very loose. I'm gonna go to my mechanic tomorrow to see if he knows where to get a replacement part.
hmm i did this in a 1991 Chevy 2500 and now brake lights dont come on when i press the brake pedal and the passenger rear blinker doesnt work, front passenger work at a fast paste but rear doesnt come on, the driverside blinkers work fine, im lost
I can't say for sure, but I was surprised how similar the suburban assembly were to those in a Pontiac Fierro. My guess is that it will be very similar.
I’m at 11:15 and having a horrible time getting that collar to come out. It’s like there is something stuck at the top, i watched this vid 10 times to make sure I wasn’t forgetting something.. anyone know what I’m doing wrong?
What surprised me most in researching to do this job was that the parts from one GM vehicle to the next are virtually identical. The most helpful thing I found was a webpage with cut-away shots of a Fiero steering column. The parts looked exactly the same -- they were just a different size. Sadly, that site was pulled down for reasons unknown.
Hello! I am glad the video was helpful. What is the problem with the ignition? You may be able to find a solution to your problem by studying these diagrams: www.crankshaftcoalition.com/wiki/images/d/d6/Jazzman_Steering_Rack_Rebuild.pdf
This problem is caused by several large machine screws getting loose at the base of the steering assembly. I have no clue if the steering assembly could fail completely while you were driving but I wouldn't risk it. The job is a pain but it has to be done.
+ScoobyDigites Ha! Thanks. My problem was that the old, crappy-looking steering wheel was attached to an old, crappy-looking Suburban. So I decided to just go with it.
The cut-away views were taken off line shortly after I posted this video. It's too bad because they were great. An interesting thing about those cut-aways is that they were from the steering column on a Pontiac Fiero. Apparently the parts DNA on GM vehicles is virtually identical once you get past the size and body style of the vehicle.
The reason I didn't shoot the reassembly was because I literally had my hands full with all the bits and pieces. So, the substance of your critique is fair -- if not your tone. I do, however feel the video is still useful in showing many steps in this job. This was shot in my driveway with a hand-held camera and zero budget. Your cost for viewing this video: free.
Robert Charpentier thank u for the video and wisdom.. couldn’t have done it without ya bud:)
Used your video to repair the steering column for my 91 GMC Sierra pickup. I've used the truck mostly for hauling stuff, picking up lumber for home projects, etc. It's great to have a pickup truck even if you only need it occasionally :). Anyway, I'm using it a little more now as my son repairs mowers and we use it to pick up equipment to be repaired. I thought I should go ahead and take care of the loose column. It took me about 6 hours to get it done. It wouldn't have taken so long if not for a couple of small pieces that fell out as I was removing, and had to figure out where they went.
One thing I had trouble with, perhaps it's different with the GMC Sierra, was removing the assembly after your comments at 10:39 (removing tilt mechanism lever). After removing the tilt mechanism lever, I moved the assembly up, down, sideways, but could see it was hinged across the top. I wasn't sure if I had to hammer that pin out, or what. I watched your video again, and noticed while you were removing the lever, you said "you'll have to put it back on". So, I put it back on, pulled on it and the assembly detached from the horizontal pin across the top of the column.
Hmm, I just noticed something else while writing my comments and reviewing your video. A note popped up on your video about a centering pin at the bottom of the spring removed just before 10:39. I didn't remove the centering pin. I do recall seeing it while working on my steering. Well, I'm not pulling it all apart to see if it's still there. I didn't see it on my floor board, so I'm guessing it's still in place. Everything seems to be fine.
There's no way I could have done this without your video. Thanks for taking the time to record and post.
William
William Heffernan I'm sure there's a way to edit my post above, but can't find it right away. I wanted to comment as well, I had to remove a panel below the steering column exposing some wiring. I was able to pull part of the wiring away from a point to which it was attached giving my more slack in the wiring to enable manipulating the various components.
William Heffernan This is definitely one of those jobs that goes along simply enough until that moment in which you realize you're way out over your skis. In this case the hard part is keeping track of all the little parts that have nothing to do with the actual repair but still need to be dealt with.
BTW: I had this Suburban for the exact same reason you have your truck. The transmission died on it a few months ago so I junked it. Now I need to find a reasonably functional truck that makes sense from a cost perspective.
Glad you got it done, William. Have a great week.
Robert Charpentier Thank you, sir. Have a great week as well.
LOL, typically, I'll lay parts out in the order in which I take them off/apart. At least that way I have an idea of what goes where as they go back on. I never stepped out of my pickup except to remove the panel below the column. Since I was sitting in the cab of my pickup, there was limited space to lay things out in a logical order. I was getting a little concerned as parts started mounting. They were on the floor board, dash, sitting on my opened glove compartment, on the passenger seat, etc. But, thanks again to your video, I got it back together. I'm really excited about the steering wheel in my old pickup not moving all over the place.
William Heffernan Pre-mark sandwich bags 1, 2, 3, etc. First group of parts/screws/bolts goes into #1, second group into #2 etc. Reverse the order when reassembling.
Many thanks for this Robert from a shade-tree ''mechanic''! Same here on the lunch deal if you ever get to Boston! I was told when I asked for them at 'Autozone': those inverted Torx sockets are known a s 'E sockets'. Great demo! Thanks again! -Tim ('84 GMC truck)
HA!! COOL JUST SAW YOUR LINK THAT SHOW A CLOSEUP OF THE HIGH BEAM SWITCH ROD AND THAT PLASTIC PEICE I DIDNT KNOW HOW TO RE INSTALL IT I THINK AFTER SEEING THAT PIC ON 27 I CAN TACKLE THIS. THANKS SO MUCH FOR TAKING THE TIME TO CREATE THIS VIDEO YOU HAVE HELPED ME OUT GREATLY !! AND I THANK YOU FOR THAT.
Sure beats buying a rebuilt column for anywhere between $250-$500 What helped me was the talking points about the tools and switch parts... I failed to complete this project because of the lack of understanding about all the swict parts and how they go back together.... Thanks for the lesson.
Thanks a lot for this detailed instructions on how to fix loose steering. I have here a 1988 GMC Jimmy Sierra Classic with this kind of problem and repairing this one from a certified workshop cost a lot.
Great video, thank you i've been hesitating to do this to my 92' GMC Sierra. Didn't really know what i would be getting into, throw an engine in front of me and i'll do as you wish but electrical and stuff like this i am clueless. Your video helped a ton and gave me insight towards the job. Thanks again and you should make more video's.
Tackling this tomorrow. This will be a big help. Thank you
We found out the trick for removing that inner casing @ 11:15. Reinstall the tilt lever. straighten out the shaft, pull back on the lever and it releases the two feet holding it in place and the inner case slides up and out exposing the joint and bolts. Me thinks you accidentally missed that step in your video. But hey, that's why I check other video sources. Thanks for you video nonetheless.
After fighting my way through the maze GM calls a steering column on my 85 cutlass I found out that:
a) The upper bearings are toast. plastic cages were broken into a million little pieces.
b) The damn bolts were actually tight.
c) The steering column STILL wobbles.
It seems like the lower bearings (or possibly something else down the column) are the culprit here.
Thanks a bunch though. Definitely helped me out!
Thank you for the video, it really help to build my confidence fixing this myself on my 1989 C1500 truck.
I've tightened a few screws in steering columns, but never got all the way down onto the side pivot. I'll have to get the little puller bolts, and give it a try! Thx...
Thanks for the video, Im pretty mechanically inclined but never did more than pull a steering wheel. Im confident with the aide of your video I can do this repair
i have a 85 c10 that had this same problem your video was extremely helpful just wanted to say thank you for your helpful video... one more thing i also ran in to a issue making sure the ignition side/clip lines up properly but again thank you alot for the helpful video
Thanks, Travis. I can't tell you how many jobs I've managed to do because somebody posted a TH-cam video showing me how.
Definitely was a great help. After breaking two pivot pin remover tools in the pins, I was unable to remove them, but was still able to remove two of the three bolts and put lock tight on them. Assembly video could of helped out. That damn dimmer switch and that free float plastic piece that pushes on the rod for the head lights...... Nightmare from bell and took forever to figure that out. But thank you again.
Glad it helped. Yes, the dimmer-switch issue is a total puzzle. There may have been some cursing and wrench throwing in the parts of the video I edited out.
Curious on the actual socket used for removing the 3 bolts in the column in the very last part of the video.
A great job it was. I am planning to do the job on my silverado 1989 4.3 v6. It has the same tilting steering wheel. I still need to buy the plate ring removal tool. It will be the first time I will do it. My truck is a 1989 Silverado 4.3 model 1500 v6. A nice truck with manual transmission . 4 speed with O/drive plus reverse. Thanks from the island of Aruba.
Thank you for the picture I didn't know the name it's the steering wheel lock gear looking thing. I'm working on a 2017 it's the same technology 👍👍👍👍
trying to do this, the piece you are wiggling free at the 11:14 on mine is loose and rotates around without even taking out the pivot pins (which i'm waiting on the remover tool as stores here don't carry it) is that normal? my tilt column has been loose for a bit and last night it got really messed up and now I also can't start the truck nor do lights work. and the steering wheel kinda hangs limp. could the steering column be messing up all the other stuff too. or am i looking at another problem on top of the tilt wheel. thanks
It sounds like you have a lot of stuff going on there, and it's hard to know without looking at it. I would just double check all your switches and wiring connectors to make sure you didn't accidentally pull something loose. It may help to look through these diagrams to get a better idea how everything is supposed to connect: www.crankshaftcoalition.com/wiki/images/d/d6/Jazzman_Steering_Rack_Rebuild.pdf
This was very helpful. I perticularly like your last answer. Now I have disassembled an 87 dodge column. Almost identical. however, the key lock isn't the same and I can't get it out???
I appreciate the video.....just did this job! One thing I did was take the steering rod out and then I had access to all 4 (I had 4 not 3) torkx bolts with the correct socket. Took just 5 mins. and one bolt under the hood on the steering rod (and knuckle that is in the way) slid out of the way of the bolts.
The rod you were talking about being careful when u disassemble the steering column..how do you reassemble it..I'm ready to put my steering back together..I had to that tilt problem Like u and I'm stuck at the rod idk what to do with it or how to put it back together I never pulled it out its still in there but I'm at a loss
Hi Robert your video was very helpful. Considering I just bought my 91 k1500 for work commute. My problem lies in the turn signals. My hazards work and flash properly both outside and in the dash. But using the lever both L/R doesn't indicate anything. None of the lights turn on. But my brake lights do work.
I've replaced both the flasher and turn signal relay. And replaced all fuses under the dash.
So I planned on using your video too get me to the turn signal switch and making sure the connections are good.
Ive also read that making sure its grounded properly. From where am I looking to confirm its grounded?
Any help will be greatly appreciated.
Dear Robert,thanks for great video instruction!!! I have the same problem on my Suburban V1500 1990...I'ill fix it soon.Than you so much!!!
Thanks for posting man.. I was about to go buy a new column....
Glad it helped. There are a few very good videos on this topic on TH-cam. I'd watch them all. Each one gives you a bit more info.
We're having difficulty pulling apart the inner casing @11:15 in your video.
Robert I have a problem.... I performed this whole procedure and managed to get my tilt steering part nice and tight, feels great. But my steering wheel or better yet pivot ball/arm is still very loose. Even more so than when the tilt part was jiggling around with it. Could that be those bearings in there or something else all together? My tilt part of the column is nice and tight but after reassembly my steering wheel is flopping around like crazy.
By the way thank you so much for this video, I sat in my truck with a tablet and was able to follow your steps perfectly.
Hey, Jesse. The only thing that comes to mind is the coil spring at the the base of the assembly housing -- did you remember to put it back in?
thank you for the video. man Do you know, wether this four spoke steering wheel fits to 80s Suburbans with the two spoke steering wheel with three screws?
to all those who are still having issues getting the top to come loose. I just did this on ine, reinsert the tilt control arm and pull it forewards, it will come loose this way, because its actually connected by 2 large gears on top that are connected to the tilt
Great video very helpful. Also the link to the cutaway helped. Thanks.
Robert: Might you know the external torx bolt size (E?)on the 3 nuts that are loose at bottom?
I just followed your instructions, but I ran into a snag putting it back together. There is a metal band that I believe goes to the steering wheel lock assembly. I am pretty sure it is one of the first areas on reassembly. It is a metal band that resembles the smile on a smiley face about 3/4 - 1 " across. This is directly on the opposite side of the key ignition. Any feedback would be great.
Lee Darling Hey, Lee. I'm not completely sure what you're describing. Is this it: www.crankshaftcoalition.com/wiki/images/d/d6/Jazzman_Steering_Rack_Rebuild.pdf#page=22
Sorry I didn't get back to you, I found your link
www.crankshaftcoalition.com/wiki/images/d/d6/Jazzman_Steering_Rack_Rebuild.pdf The step by step breakdown is awesome. Whoever took the time to put that together is a lifesaver.
Lee Darling Believe it or not, that breakdown is for a steering column in a Fiero. It just goes to show you how much the same GM cars are from one model to the next.
Would my 89 blazer have the same process because my steering column is really loose and it just recently started to turn the blazer off and i was thinking what can cause this short?
thank you for making this video! it helped me out on my 79 gmc.
Help...any idea what to do if the wires are to short to remove the larger piece with the turn signal and ingnition?
KC Cochran I'm having the same issue!!! What did you do to fix this??
KC Cochran look down below the steering column and take off the plastic trim right under the column and take off the metal trim that has 4 or 5 screws which will expose the wires that run up through the column. I took off the bracket that has 4 1/2in screws and unplugged the cable which allowed me enough cable
Hey i have the same problem with a 87 safari and now the key wont move does the tilt mechanism interfere with that ? Thanks
Absogreat video to the point and very helpful thank you
Cool! Glad it helped. Thank you.
Too bad you can't just throw a hole or two in the cover piece to access it the next time without all the disassembly. Them cover it with a rubber sewer line hose fitting or something that approximate size isn't it? What difference would a fatter column cover make that moves up and down ? to access the monster?
Never mind, I got it! Thank you sir! Very helpful. Probably saved me $300
+Sean Topham Glad the video helped, Sean. What was hanging you up on the earlier step?
i m in middle os this but on a 1972 chevy c 10 ,, no key ig on col its on dash.
can't get the solid inner chunk housing out . to get to the bolts to tighten the upper shaft ,, the upper shaft bearing seems good ..
might need to get a third bolt 12-24 thread 3 inches long and pull like the wheel unless theres another trick ,, ugh my tilt is wobbly just like the 91 in your vid .
Do you think this would work for a 1986 buick lesabre? My steering wheel does the same thing and I figured it would be similar because it's a Older model GM
My guess is that it probably will. Most of the parts in GM steering wheel assemblies are very similar from one car to the next.
Dude did you ever do anything to the Kia soul?? We have the exact same thing and I want to do something with mine
I have a 1990 manual steering column that needs tightening as well because it’s loose. It’s it the same procedure?
I do not know for sure but the GM steering assemblies tend to be the same in most of their vehicles.
Great video i was already looking to buy a new steering column 👌
Thank you Robert, it's exactly what I needed
Barry here again. Forgot to put the tilt handle back on after. Now its off. Thanks
We found the same kind of repair and parts needed for our Van. I forgot to tell you that it was 1990. I find it interesting that GMC has failed to solve the problem after even 15 years.
Hey Robert, Barry here. 1990 Chevy k1500. Tilt pins are out and I've been trying to snake the housing off for an hour. Bottom half is free but the top is not. Any possibility my housing has another pin or screw in addition to what you you have described?
+Barry Heminger put the tilt handle back on, pull on tilt handle, it realeses housing from column right at torx bolts
The small plastic piece mentioned ( that pushes on bright push rod end ] fell out, After 3 hrs in 100 degree heat. Decided to come ask How in hell does it stay in during assembly. Has radius end against rod end. fits in 1/4 round groove above toward center. Doesn't appear to snap onto turn signal arm end, Just butts to it ?
this vid is pretty useful, but i have something lose behind where thoes 4 bolts are, is there anything back there that needs to be tightened up? or replaced?
i have a 1989 chevy v3500. i thought it was the steering wheel so i took it all apart up to those 4 bolts, removed put blue lock tight on it, but while i was taking the bolts out the housing and something behind it was moving around
+Garrett Owens Sorry Garrett, it would be hard to say what it is without being there to look at it. Here is a very handy guide that breaks down the GM tilt steering column. You may find your answer there: www.crankshaftcoalition.com/wiki/images/d/d6/Jazzman_Steering_Rack_Rebuild.pdf
+Robert Charpentier awesome, thank you. I will look into it. I'm going to do a tear down this weekend to see what the problem is. good thing I have another means to get to work
so i took the steering column apart, well without removing it from the truck, and found out that the steering column jacket assembly is broken, the top part that holds the plate for the rest of it and the bottom of the jacket are cracked or broken off completely, i pulled a piece of it out when i got to that point. now i just need to find a steering column jacket, or a whole new one... know where i could start looking? other then a junk yard...
+Garrett Owens I'm a pick-and-pull kind of guy myself when it comes to parts.
Awesome video! im gonna wait till i get my new ignition switch before i fix my tilt. Again great video!!
where are the cutaway views? I don't see them on the link that you sent here. Thanks
th-cam.com/users/redirect?event=video_description&v=HsIWG-hRfy0&q=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.crankshaftcoalition.com%2Fwiki%2Fimages%2Fd%2Fd6%2FJazzman_Steering_Rack_Rebuild.pdf&redir_token=RjHiVtgp2KUHxp_gb0H9xoXYkNx8MTUyNjY1MDY1NUAxNTI2NTY0MjU1
Thanks man for big help!!
IMPORTANT!! Make sure you get a high quality pivot extractor. The cheap ones break off and then you are F*****d and can only tighten the bottom two bolts.
@prairieartmetal I actually had enough slack on the wiring harness to pull the upper assembly out of the way but I did see in another video that you can sometimes push a little slack up from the bottom of the steering column. And yes, the dimmer switch linkage was a real puzzle for me. The reason you don't see me dealing with it in the video is because that's the part where I was cursing and throwing wrenches. :-)
AT 11:14 IN THE VIDEO YOU START TO TAKE THE LAST PEICE OF THE PUZZLE OUT BUT YOU DO NOT EXPLAIN HOW IT COMES OUT I COULD NOT GET MINE OUT. I ENDED UP JUST TIGHTENING THE TWO BOTTOM SCREWS AND WERE NOT ABLE TO GET THEM OUT TO LOC TITE THEM AND WHE I PUT EVERYTHING BACK TOGETHER THE BRIGHT SWITCH JUST FLOPS AROUND THERE IS A SMALL BLACK PLASTIC PEICE THAT I DIDNT PAY ATTENTION HOW IT CAME OFF SO I DIDNT KNOW HOW TO REPLACE IT. CAN YOU HELP ME PLEASE
bill shank Hi Bill, I just loosened the screws until I could use a magnet to snag them with. Also, only take them out one at a time--it's a bear to get them all lined up again once all the screws are out.
+Robert Charpentier Not that hard to get them back in, i had to do this maintenance due to all 4 torx bits falling out causing my entire column housing to turn with wheel, separating the ignition linkage. pretty much slaps into place. 1991 chevy blazer s10
@nhellman84 It turns out that the link I provided is no longer active. It's a bummer because the photos made it really easy to understand how some of the components fit together -- and trust me, it's not always obvious.
Thank you for the video. I learned several things. First, it's not a super serious problem. Second, it looks like kind of a pain in the ass. Third, I have a really reasonable mechanic that makes the cost of buying the specialized tools to do the job myself seem kind of silly.
+tedb310 I can't argue with any of this. It was a pain, though far from the most aggravating auto repair I've ever done. I think what drives me nuts about this particular job is that you have to tear down most of the steering column to tighten a couple of screws down. They could have designed it better or at least used a little Lock-tight in the first place.
I got 89 cutlass supreme and the bolt going into the right pivot pin is broke-off,i've tried drilling it out,but the metal won't cut(too hard).
Great Video, Its the most in depth one on youtube...anyway my 91 dually has this same problem, but before I start pulling it apart, I wanted to make sure I have all the parts, the plastic piece that activates the horn at 6:50 is most likely busted on mine, since the horn doesent work.... do you happen to know where I might find one besides the junkyard? or the proper name for it, I cannot find it anywhere.
***** I think you're talking about the cancel cam. The round plastic thing with a copper ring on one side? The nice thing about GM products is that you can find pretty much every conceivable part at any given parts store. Still, If you know exactly what you're looking for, a pick-n-pull might be the best place to start. Here, read this--bottom of the page and the next page, too: www.crankshaftcoalition.com/wiki/images/d/d6/Jazzman_Steering_Rack_Rebuild.pdf#page=57
yep Thats exactly what I was talking about, thank you!
Bolts needed locking tabs to bend over the heads or like on aircraft bolts where you tied wires through to stop them from turning !
Thank you so much for this lol I was wondering how to fix this in my suburban
Well done Robert. Pro video! I had the same issue with my Silverado. Kudos man! Got 'er done!
what was that last special tool.u had
Thanks for that video.
Shawn Mcclure - I’m glad it helped!
hey man thanks a lot u made it simple and with common sense
Yes, the video is very informative showing many tips and tricks other videos failed to show. But in the process of all this disassembly and reassembly, you failed to also assume that the actual upper steering bearing was okay. Having the steering column totally torn down to this point, it is foolish not to go ahead and check the bearing if not replace it also. as by the time these bolts wiggle loose through normal usage, that bearing is usually worn out too. Having devoted this much time to your video, and including so much useful info in it, you need to also include the removal and replacement of that upper steering column bearing too, would you not think so? I'm not berating you for it, just some helpful hopefully beneficial critique is all.
Good point and something I definitely overlooked when I was doing this job. I was looking for a root cause and not really thinking about a complete overhaul of the assembly. Something to consider for next time. Thank you for the feedback!
Robert, I have a question. I have it taken apart all the way down to removing the final collar, but there is something still holding it in. I believe it may be the tilt paws on top. You skipped that part. Did you remove something else?
Thanks for the help!
Sean Topham will
What's the tool called for auto zone
@prairieartmetal Yeah, I would have been lost without the assembly cut-away images I found. They showed exactly how everything fits together. Too bad they were pulled down.
11:15
How do I get that off? I took out the two pins and removed the spring..... It's not coming off!!!
I'm not sure what you mean by "that." Are you talking about the metal housing the pins hold in place?
Robert Charpentier Turns out, my upper bearing inner race (shown on page 56 of the link in the description) was pretty beat up and has difficulty being removed and installed. After popping that off and the preload cup behind it, it came right apart.
However, I suppose because of the excessive force I had to put on the upper bearing inner race, maybe I messed it up. It is not putting enough pressure on the preload cup (I assume), because as I put the rest of the assembly together and the shaft moves around in the process, the inner race loosens from the preload cup and the steering wheel becomes very loose.
I'm gonna go to my mechanic tomorrow to see if he knows where to get a replacement part.
hmm i did this in a 1991 Chevy 2500 and now brake lights dont come on when i press the brake pedal and the passenger rear blinker doesnt work, front passenger work at a fast paste but rear doesnt come on, the driverside blinkers work fine, im lost
Sounds like you should leave it to a professional.
Mine is actually a 75, so I won't have as many extra things in the column, but I will check out that link, thanks.
can I drill to a side just to remove the key barrel?
+Jenny T I don't know but it sounds like you may be risking permanent damage to the assembly. Your call.
+Jenny T Find the right tool. It can be done. Dont drill.
Great video man, thanks!!
Glad it helped you. Makes me wish I still had this rig.
Would this be similar on a 1988 firebird?
I can't say for sure, but I was surprised how similar the suburban assembly were to those in a Pontiac Fierro. My guess is that it will be very similar.
Robert Charpentier okay thats good to hear thank you for the reply
you could also use a socket bolt and nut to pull the pivot pins
Thanks for the vid going to give it a try this week on my 84 monte carlo.
You did a good job.
That ball and shaft will come out with a twist and like bend to the left I believe
Sorry, I can't really help with that. Was there nothing on TH-cam that covered it?
Do any1 no for sure if the 90-91 suburban tilt column fits n 84 c10 plug an play.
I’m at 11:15 and having a horrible time getting that collar to come out. It’s like there is something stuck at the top, i watched this vid 10 times to make sure I wasn’t forgetting something.. anyone know what I’m doing wrong?
Did you pull the steering wheel pivot pins? 9:50 (ish)
ha I have a1982 Chevy impala changed ignition key switch its not starting key turns free don't jump back can u help
What surprised me most in researching to do this job was that the parts from one GM vehicle to the next are virtually identical. The most helpful thing I found was a webpage with cut-away shots of a Fiero steering column. The parts looked exactly the same -- they were just a different size. Sadly, that site was pulled down for reasons unknown.
awesome video, thanks man
HI. Robert thanks for the video, helped me a lot but but I still have the problem with the ignition. can you help me....
Hello! I am glad the video was helpful. What is the problem with the ignition? You may be able to find a solution to your problem by studying these diagrams: www.crankshaftcoalition.com/wiki/images/d/d6/Jazzman_Steering_Rack_Rebuild.pdf
thank u, I ready fix it... thanks for your video...
Thank you! Exactly the problem we are having with our GMC Van. Same deal.
Will you eventually lose steering if you dont fix this?
This problem is caused by several large machine screws getting loose at the base of the steering assembly. I have no clue if the steering assembly could fail completely while you were driving but I wouldn't risk it. The job is a pain but it has to be done.
Thanks, Looks like a great thing to do next weekend.
good video for if you want to change your old crappy looking steering wheel
+ScoobyDigites Ha! Thanks. My problem was that the old, crappy-looking steering wheel was attached to an old, crappy-looking Suburban. So I decided to just go with it.
Thank you so much really a big help. Hey keep the good work videos comin .
i really need the cut-away views. BAD. let me know if you find them again. PLEASE.
The cut-away views were taken off line shortly after I posted this video. It's too bad because they were great. An interesting thing about those cut-aways is that they were from the steering column on a Pontiac Fiero. Apparently the parts DNA on GM vehicles is virtually identical once you get past the size and body style of the vehicle.
Found it: www.crankshaftcoalition.com/wiki/images/d/d6/Jazzman_Steering_Rack_Rebuild.pdf
Thank you!! thats exactly the problem with my dads 88 GMC sierra pickup
Thanks .. this video really helped
What if emergency flashers don't work on my 85???
cool thank you for the help its very much appreciated.
Sorry it took me so long to reply. I haven't been paying much attention to TH-cam lately. Good luck with your repair.
I have an 90 chevrolet suburban r1500 and I'm trying to rewiring my steering column
Nice video, I'm gonna use it when I take mine apart. Thanks!