This series was extremely helpful to me with repairs to my 2005 Highlander with the same 3MZ FE engine.. Your time and effort with filming/editing is greatly appreciated.. Thank You!!
Absolutely wonderful job documenting your work. I thought you were a professional mechanic until the end. Videos were extremely informative and helpful. Thanks a million!!
Wow I’m glad the videos were helpful. The problem I have with some of the professional videos are they just say do this and that but sometimes they don’t show the details or how to overcome not so easy work. So I tried the document the details so that average DIY-folks like you and me can actually do the work with some clarity and confidence. Let me know how it goes.
This is one of the most reliable V6 engines Toyota has built, and only major problem is the valve cover leak, so it’s worth doing the work, as engine can easily touch high than 300K miles. My coworker’s 2005 HL with over 350K miles and just got timing chain replaced. Let me know how it goes.
@@DIYLifeSkills - yeah you did great videos. Right after I watched the three I went out and took apart my windshield cover on my 2016 Highlander in preparation for replacing the spark plugs. I love the Highlanders.
@@condor5635 my daughter bought a brand new 2023 Subaru Outback and battery kept on draining overnight and it sat it dealership for 3 months trying to fix it. After 4 attempts, my daughter got her full money back on lemon law. Afterwards, she bought a slightly used 2022 Highlander V6, which was my original advice to her.
@4:36, the ideal gasket maker for the valve cover mating area is Permatex Optimum Gasket Maker Grey. It provides maximum vibration resistance and if you ever go back to this area it is much easier to clean off than the black. Also, I'm not sure if your video shows this but per Permatex instructions, you should place the valve covers on immediately after applying the RTV; you then push down gently and you can hand screw in the valve cover bolts. However, don't torque tighten these bolts until an hour has passed since applying the RTV. This allows the RTV to harden a bit before you torque down. Moreover, you should wait a full 24 hours for the RTV to cure entirely before you turn on the engine.
Hi, isn't the torque spec for the fuel rail bolts on 3.0/3.3L 84 in-lbs? @0:55 you stated that the torque is 8ft-lbs (which converted to in-lbs would be 96 in-lbs). Please clarify your source.
One more maintenance issue that should have been addressed when working under the intake manifold is the replacing of the Water bypass/transfer hose, Toyota 16261-20010. It is easily accessible by removing the lower intake manifold.
I bought the fel-pro band from O’Reilly. I’ve had good experience with fel-pro brand gasket. You can check with Toyota dealer and compare the cost and if it’s not too much different, you can consider OEM. O’Reilly will look up the correct part based on your VIN
@@mikegamble1457 back valve cover is pain to get to, so this is a great time to change spark plugs and do other maintenances that I’ve done. For spark plug, only buy exact OEM from local Toyota dealer or reputable parts store as there are too many fake ones floating out there on Amazon and eBay
Yes agreed, I did buy the OEM spark plugs. I did the front ones, but still need to do the back ones soon. The rear valve isn’t leaking at the moment, only the front. Mine is a 2006 Lexus RX330
We've been going back-and-forth regarding torque specs for the valve cover bolts. There are differing torque specs for the valve cover bolts and the spark plugs. Your instructions have the valve cover bolts at 8 ft-lbs, while most others, including toyota's 3mz-fe shop manual showing 71 in-lbs. The toyota shop manual shows the valve cover torque at 8 NM (newton-meters), not 8 ft-lbs. That's a 35% difference. I recently replaced the valve cover gasket on and torqued to 71 in-lbs, but after discussing with you via comments was going to change the torque to 96 in-lbs, which was your spec in this video. I was going to change the torque to 96 in-lbs, but decided to investigate the torque specs again. I decided to NOT increase the torque from 71 in-lbs to 96 in-lbs. The deciding factor was the seeing the spec in the toyota shop manual. As I indicated in an earlier comment the torque spec according to my investigation was 8 NM not 8 ft-lbs and that may have been the reason for you and a small number of others that indicated 8 ft-lbs was the torque spec. NOTE: your video 3 of 3, you broke one of the valve cover bolts which may have been due to over-torquing that bolt to 8 ft-lb vs 8 NM. Thx again though for your detailed videos, they are very helpful.
As I mentioned, unless you have an accurate torque wrench, most cheap device will not set or measure that accurately. It’s funny that you are super micro detail but missed the point in how the bolt was broken. Bolt broke when I was hand tightening bolts without torque wrench while thinking the torque was 18 ft/lbs. since I had to remove the valve cover to remove the broken bolt, all bolts were set to 8 ft/lbs using cheap harbor freight torque wrench. Since then I bought $70 digital torque meter that’s more accurate.
@@DIYLifeSkillsyou produce EXCELLENT videos! I do, however, want to point out respectfully that @dbmn7571 is correct in that the torque spec for the valve covers bolts is 8 N-m, not 8 ft-lbs.
I've watched all your videos for changing valve cover gasket and associated repairs. My question to you is the valve cover bolt torque spec: I've read various articles and videos where the torque ranges from 71ft-lbs to 396 ft-lbs. Your video #3, which I'm currently watching indicates 106 in-lbs. 2 weeks ago I replaced my bank 2 valve cover gasket and spark plug tube seals and used 71 in-lbs. Are your torque specs derived from the Toyota shop manuals? If I need to increase the torque from 71 ft-lbs to 106 ft-lbs, can that be done now, after they were torqued 2 weeks ago? I've read the valve cover bolt torque spec is 8 NM which converts to 71 in-lbs and I'm wondering if the 8 ft-lb spec was derived incorrectly from the 8 NM. thx
Look at what you are saying...74 to 396 ft/lbs of torque of a valve cover bolt for aluminum engine block. Even the tire lug nut torque is only between 70 to 100 ft/lbs, and that's probably one of the highest torque used in a car.
CORRECTED FT-LBS TO IN-LBS REFERENCES: I've watched all your videos for changing valve cover gasket and associated repairs. My question to you is the valve cover bolt torque spec: I've read various articles and videos where the torque ranges from 71IN-lbs to 396 IN-lbs. Your video #3, which I'm currently watching indicates 106 in-lbs, approximately 8 ft-lbs. . 2 weeks ago I replaced my bank 2 valve cover gasket and spark plug tube seals and used 71 in-lbs. Are your torque specs derived from the Toyota shop manuals? If I need to increase the torque from 71 IN-lbs to 106 IN-lbs, can that be done now, after they were torqued 2 weeks ago? I've read that the valve cover bolt torque spec is 8 NM which converts to 71 in-lbs and I'm wondering if the 8 ft-lb spec was derived incorrectly from the 8 NM. thx
Update: the NGK IFR6A11 spark plugs in the video were discontinued by NGK and replaced with IFR6T11; the A and the T represent different firing end designs. They come pregapped to 0.044" but I wonder if I should gap them to the recommended gap of 0.043"? Any thoughts?
.044 and .043 are essentially identical as it’s difficult to get that precisely set using simple gap tool at home. However, I would check the gaps, on my Lexus, I trusted factory pre-gapped plugs and they misfired immediately and I had to regap 2 or 3 out of 6 plugs to fix the misfire. Lastly, thanks for the updated spark plug number. When I get home later, I’ll add that info to the video as pop up text.
@@carlosamorin7989 Many think you shouldn’t check the gap and potentially damage precious iridium or platinum tips in the process. So I trusted factory gap. But now I always carefully check gaps before installing plugs.
Interesting, you recommended putting rtv on the entire surface where the valve cover gasket meets the head. I don't remember you recommending the same method on the front valve cover...
When I took off the valve cover, I only see silicone on left and right sides, therefore, I recommended to only applying RTV on both left and right edges in the same way for both front and rear valve covers. What time mark do I say apply to the entire surface?
@@DIYLifeSkills this morning I watched a Fel-Pro video where their expert talks about their valve cover gaskets. He specifically says not to use RTV all the way around a surface. If you need some in a special spot, a little dab will do you.
@@DIYLifeSkills It's a 2006 RX330. I've got the front one replaced, today I'm going after the rear. Thanks so much for these videos. Priceless! I appreciate your wise advice about dry fitting the valve cover.
Part 1 Video is here:
th-cam.com/video/8RXQpL0ADyE/w-d-xo.html
Part 2 video is here:
th-cam.com/video/-SkOiiNGCB4/w-d-xo.html
This series was extremely helpful to me with repairs to my 2005 Highlander with the same 3MZ FE engine.. Your time and effort with filming/editing is greatly appreciated.. Thank You!!
Wow thank you so much. Best feedback yet. :-)
Just wanted to say "thank you" for the three part series! Lot's of work but super helpful!!
Thank you so much for the feedback.
Absolutely wonderful job documenting your work. I thought you were a professional mechanic until the end. Videos were extremely informative and helpful.
Thanks a million!!
Wow I’m glad the videos were helpful. The problem I have with some of the professional videos are they just say do this and that but sometimes they don’t show the details or how to overcome not so easy work. So I tried the document the details so that average DIY-folks like you and me can actually do the work with some clarity and confidence. Let me know how it goes.
I have 2004 HL with 245k miles. Will be undertaking this effort soon. Great video. Thank you!
This is one of the most reliable V6 engines Toyota has built, and only major problem is the valve cover leak, so it’s worth doing the work, as engine can easily touch high than 300K miles. My coworker’s 2005 HL with over 350K miles and just got timing chain replaced. Let me know how it goes.
You are a DIY guy like me. :-). Just subscribed to your channel.
@@DIYLifeSkills - yeah you did great videos. Right after I watched the three I went out and took apart my windshield cover on my 2016 Highlander in preparation for replacing the spark plugs. I love the Highlanders.
@@condor5635 my daughter bought a brand new 2023 Subaru Outback and battery kept on draining overnight and it sat it dealership for 3 months trying to fix it. After 4 attempts, my daughter got her full money back on lemon law. Afterwards, she bought a slightly used 2022 Highlander V6, which was my original advice to her.
That is how you make a repair vid with actual torque specs. A pro
Thanks for the feedback. :-)
@4:36, the ideal gasket maker for the valve cover mating area is Permatex Optimum Gasket Maker Grey. It provides maximum vibration resistance and if you ever go back to this area it is much easier to clean off than the black. Also, I'm not sure if your video shows this but per Permatex instructions, you should place the valve covers on immediately after applying the RTV; you then push down gently and you can hand screw in the valve cover bolts. However, don't torque tighten these bolts until an hour has passed since applying the RTV. This allows the RTV to harden a bit before you torque down. Moreover, you should wait a full 24 hours for the RTV to cure entirely before you turn on the engine.
Great info
Awesome vid!
Thank you 🙏
Any chance you have replace your GS300 Alternator? I just got a check charging system light on this morning. :(
Hi, isn't the torque spec for the fuel rail bolts on 3.0/3.3L 84 in-lbs? @0:55 you stated that the torque is 8ft-lbs (which converted to in-lbs would be 96 in-lbs). Please clarify your source.
One more maintenance issue that should have been addressed when working under the intake manifold is the replacing of the Water bypass/transfer hose, Toyota 16261-20010. It is easily accessible by removing the lower intake manifold.
Sorry if I missed it, but can you provide a link to the valve cover gaskets you used for this job? Did you get OEM or aftermarket?
I bought the fel-pro band from O’Reilly. I’ve had good experience with fel-pro brand gasket. You can check with Toyota dealer and compare the cost and if it’s not too much different, you can consider OEM. O’Reilly will look up the correct part based on your VIN
Thank you, appreciate it
@@mikegamble1457 back valve cover is pain to get to, so this is a great time to change spark plugs and do other maintenances that I’ve done. For spark plug, only buy exact OEM from local Toyota dealer or reputable parts store as there are too many fake ones floating out there on Amazon and eBay
Yes agreed, I did buy the OEM spark plugs. I did the front ones, but still need to do the back ones soon. The rear valve isn’t leaking at the moment, only the front. Mine is a 2006 Lexus RX330
@@mikegamble1457 not that old gasket shrinks over time and valve cover bolts becomes loosened
hi again. There are 3 O-rings on the fuel injectors; which ones did you replace?
In the part 2 video it shows the exact location of the o-ring. I only replaced one per injector
The Toyota expert, The Car Care Nut says whenever you remove an injector, you should replace both the upper and lower seals. It only makes sense.
@@samhoskins8706 I agree with that. I replaced only one end of the o-rings that lost elasticity but looking back I should’ve just replaced both ends.
@@samhoskins8706 I decided to change all three. thx.
@@dbmn7571 Yeah that’s the best thing to do while everything is taken apart especially if you are going to keep the car for a while.
We've been going back-and-forth regarding torque specs for the valve cover bolts. There are differing torque specs for the valve cover bolts and the spark plugs. Your instructions have the valve cover bolts at 8 ft-lbs, while most others, including toyota's 3mz-fe shop manual showing 71 in-lbs. The toyota shop manual shows the valve cover torque at 8 NM (newton-meters), not 8 ft-lbs. That's a 35% difference. I recently replaced the valve cover gasket on and torqued to 71 in-lbs, but after discussing with you via comments was going to change the torque to 96 in-lbs, which was your spec in this video. I was going to change the torque to 96 in-lbs, but decided to investigate the torque specs again. I decided to NOT increase the torque from 71 in-lbs to 96 in-lbs. The deciding factor was the seeing the spec in the toyota shop manual. As I indicated in an earlier comment the torque spec according to my investigation was 8 NM not 8 ft-lbs and that may have been the reason for you and a small number of others that indicated 8 ft-lbs was the torque spec. NOTE: your video 3 of 3, you broke one of the valve cover bolts which may have been due to over-torquing that bolt to 8 ft-lb vs 8 NM. Thx again though for your detailed videos, they are very helpful.
As I mentioned, unless you have an accurate torque wrench, most cheap device will not set or measure that accurately. It’s funny that you are super micro detail but missed the point in how the bolt was broken. Bolt broke when I was hand tightening bolts without torque wrench while thinking the torque was 18 ft/lbs. since I had to remove the valve cover to remove the broken bolt, all bolts were set to 8 ft/lbs using cheap harbor freight torque wrench. Since then I bought $70 digital torque meter that’s more accurate.
@@DIYLifeSkillsyou produce EXCELLENT videos! I do, however, want to point out respectfully that @dbmn7571 is correct in that the torque spec for the valve covers bolts is 8 N-m, not 8 ft-lbs.
I've watched all your videos for changing valve cover gasket and associated repairs. My question to you is the valve cover bolt torque spec: I've read various articles and videos where the torque ranges from 71ft-lbs to 396 ft-lbs. Your video #3, which I'm currently watching indicates 106 in-lbs. 2 weeks ago I replaced my bank 2 valve cover gasket and spark plug tube seals and used 71 in-lbs. Are your torque specs derived from the Toyota shop manuals? If I need to increase the torque from 71 ft-lbs to 106 ft-lbs, can that be done now, after they were torqued 2 weeks ago? I've read the valve cover bolt torque spec is 8 NM which converts to 71 in-lbs and I'm wondering if the 8 ft-lb spec was derived incorrectly from the 8 NM. thx
Take a look at this:
toyota-specs.com/cars/2004/highlander3.3/torque-specs_engine.php
Look at what you are saying...74 to 396 ft/lbs of torque of a valve cover bolt for aluminum engine block. Even the tire lug nut torque is only between 70 to 100 ft/lbs, and that's probably one of the highest torque used in a car.
@@DIYLifeSkills My bad...where I say 71 FOOT-POUNDS and 74 FOOT-POUNDS, I meant 71 INCH-POUNDS.
@@dbmn7571 74 in/lbs is about 6 ft/lb. That's too low. I would go with 8 ft/lbs.
CORRECTED FT-LBS TO IN-LBS REFERENCES: I've watched all your videos for changing valve cover gasket and associated repairs. My question to you is the valve cover bolt torque spec: I've read various articles and videos where the torque ranges from 71IN-lbs to 396 IN-lbs. Your video #3, which I'm currently watching indicates 106 in-lbs, approximately 8 ft-lbs. . 2 weeks ago I replaced my bank 2 valve cover gasket and spark plug tube seals and used 71 in-lbs. Are your torque specs derived from the Toyota shop manuals? If I need to increase the torque from 71 IN-lbs to 106 IN-lbs, can that be done now, after they were torqued 2 weeks ago? I've read that the valve cover bolt torque spec is 8 NM which converts to 71 in-lbs and I'm wondering if the 8 ft-lb spec was derived incorrectly from the 8 NM. thx
Update: the NGK IFR6A11 spark plugs in the video were discontinued by NGK and replaced with IFR6T11; the A and the T represent different firing end designs. They come pregapped to 0.044" but I wonder if I should gap them to the recommended gap of 0.043"? Any thoughts?
.044 and .043 are essentially identical as it’s difficult to get that precisely set using simple gap tool at home. However, I would check the gaps, on my Lexus, I trusted factory pre-gapped plugs and they misfired immediately and I had to regap 2 or 3 out of 6 plugs to fix the misfire. Lastly, thanks for the updated spark plug number. When I get home later, I’ll add that info to the video as pop up text.
@@DIYLifeSkills did they misfire because you didn't first check the gap distance?
@@carlosamorin7989 Many think you shouldn’t check the gap and potentially damage precious iridium or platinum tips in the process. So I trusted factory gap. But now I always carefully check gaps before installing plugs.
@@carlosamorin7989 I try to check the gap with .001 smaller setting to avoid scraping on the precious metal tip in a tight thickness.
Interesting, you recommended putting rtv on the entire surface where the valve cover gasket meets the head. I don't remember you recommending the same method on the front valve cover...
When I took off the valve cover, I only see silicone on left and right sides, therefore,
I recommended to only applying RTV on both left and right edges in the same way for both front and rear valve covers. What time mark do I say apply to the entire surface?
@@DIYLifeSkills this morning I watched a Fel-Pro video where their expert talks about their valve cover gaskets. He specifically says not to use RTV all the way around a surface. If you need some in a special spot, a little dab will do you.
Yup I used little on the one corner where the gasket was coming out.
@@samhoskins8706 BTW, sounds like you are near the end? How did it go? And which car is it?
@@DIYLifeSkills It's a 2006 RX330. I've got the front one replaced, today I'm going after the rear. Thanks so much for these videos. Priceless! I appreciate your wise advice about dry fitting the valve cover.
*Promosm*
What's Promosm?