Mt. Stuart, Lower Half of the North Ridge

An attempt of Mount Stuart's full North Ridge on 08/09 and 08/10/2018. It was very hot and the route no longer had any water from the base of the ridge up to the main notch. Despite drinking a lot of water on the approach and refilling our supply, we quickly ran out of water once we were on the route. We became very hot and dehydrated. We camped at the lower notch of the route and made our way up to the main notch the next morning, hoping to find water. We found the only way to get water would be to descend to the Ice Cliff Glacier to the east (which was constantly roaring with rock and ice fall in the warm weather) or the Stuart Glacier to the west. Both descents to get water appeared to be between 500ft and 800ft of elevation loss that we would need to climb again to continue the route. After having no water since the night before, we decided to descend on the Stuart Glacier side and end our climb early. We rappelled and down climbed along the Stuart Glacier until we could get water and eventually cross underneath the upper glacier. We will have to return in the future to complete the full route, hopefully in a little cooler conditions.