And he explains it so easily. It's one of the best things about his channel. Back when I started out, literally a lifetime ago, I learned so much from the more experienced people. I'm a big believer in passing that knowledge along, and Roger does it very well.
My TLR, a Czechoslovak Meopta Flexaret V, has the same Prontor SVS shutter (on a 75mm f/3.5 tessar design lens) with that coupling lever for the shutter speed and aperture. The red numbers are in EV, and I often actually set my meter reading by looking at the EV dial on my Sekonic. Works great!
Hey Roger! Glad to see the camera being used! I saw that bloody fibre on the top left corner on a few of my negs too but couldn't find where the heck it's hiding in the camera! 😅 Ryde beach is quite pretty, took some lovely photos there when I visited during the summer.
My very first medium format camera was an Agfa Isolette from an antique store. I still have it and like to use it once every couple years. They're so charming. I also just advance immediately - rather have a blank if I advance twice than two wasted frames if I double expose.
I bought a Solida a couple of months ago..Excellent condition £30. Scchneider 2.9/80 . NO rangefinder. Made in Germany (US ZONE) on the back! Back to the old days of using your head to do the job!!
Happy Christmas, mate! I continue to learn so much from you, especially how to keep dodging and burning simple. See you in the new year. I don’t use a folder but will be taking my Minolta Autocord out for a spin before Xmas.
Great video again! I use a ferricyanide crystal to remove dark marks on a print it is a bleach. I also noticed that the camera lenses were a bit dirty. You should not use the red viewer on the back of the camera with a panchromatic film like FP4 you would not load a film onto a spiral with the red safelight on in a darkroom. You are right that most photography is about routine and technique which you must stick to, I would try to find a better place to dry your films maybe an old locker. Keep up the good work.
I still have all my folders including two Solida III, one with exposure meter and the other with the rangefinder. I have to give it a go, and I have the perfect film for it, some Lomo CN 400. Ah, joy of fully manual film photography.
Roger, do you find any difference with using contrast filters when printing negs that were developed in 510 Pyro? I understand the staining effect with 510 Pyro can alter the base contrast of the negative.
It wouldn't be 42 shillings. There were only 20 shillings to the pound. :-) Question: How do you determine the push / pull development times for films? The Massive Dev chart gives some but there are no push times for FP4+. I'd be interested in pushing FP4+ to 200 or 400. I generally use Pyro-510 and perfer semi-stand procesing. Many thanks for the interesting videos.
You are not just a great photographer but an excellent printer. I enjoy your videos immensely.
I always appreciate the detailed dark room commentary. It helps those of us that are just getting started making prints.
And he explains it so easily. It's one of the best things about his channel.
Back when I started out, literally a lifetime ago, I learned so much from the more experienced people. I'm a big believer in passing that knowledge along, and Roger does it very well.
My TLR, a Czechoslovak Meopta Flexaret V, has the same Prontor SVS shutter (on a 75mm f/3.5 tessar design lens) with that coupling lever for the shutter speed and aperture. The red numbers are in EV, and I often actually set my meter reading by looking at the EV dial on my Sekonic. Works great!
Hey Roger!
Glad to see the camera being used!
I saw that bloody fibre on the top left corner on a few of my negs too but couldn't find where the heck it's hiding in the camera! 😅
Ryde beach is quite pretty, took some lovely photos there when I visited during the summer.
My very first medium format camera was an Agfa Isolette from an antique store. I still have it and like to use it once every couple years. They're so charming. I also just advance immediately - rather have a blank if I advance twice than two wasted frames if I double expose.
I bought a Solida a couple of months ago..Excellent condition £30. Scchneider 2.9/80 . NO rangefinder.
Made in Germany (US ZONE) on the back!
Back to the old days of using your head to do the job!!
it should be very sharp
Happy Christmas, mate! I continue to learn so much from you, especially how to keep dodging and burning simple. See you in the new year.
I don’t use a folder but will be taking my Minolta Autocord out for a spin before Xmas.
I have a Franka Solida model one, with no rangefinder, bought on a fleamarket, for €15. Great camera's good sharp images, with Anistigmat 1:5.6 lens.
I've got a Perkeo II and some of my best photos in recent years have been shot with it.
Great video again! I use a ferricyanide crystal to remove dark marks on a print it is a bleach. I also noticed that the camera lenses were a bit dirty. You should not use the red viewer on the back of the camera with a panchromatic film like FP4 you would not load a film onto a spiral with the red safelight on in a darkroom. You are right that most photography is about routine and technique which you must stick to, I would try to find a better place to dry your films maybe an old locker. Keep up the good work.
I still have all my folders including two Solida III, one with exposure meter and the other with the rangefinder. I have to give it a go, and I have the perfect film for it, some Lomo CN 400. Ah, joy of fully manual film photography.
Folders are also an addiction for me, digging around to put all my folders in the same cabinet
Roger, do you find any difference with using contrast filters when printing negs that were developed in 510 Pyro? I understand the staining effect with 510 Pyro can alter the base contrast of the negative.
I always take a picture and advance/wind on right away so I don't forget.
510 Pyro is very expensive in my area but the results look awesome. Does it really worth it ? I mainly use HC-110 to give an idea.
It wouldn't be 42 shillings. There were only 20 shillings to the pound. :-)
Question: How do you determine the push / pull development times for films? The Massive Dev chart gives some but there are no push times for FP4+. I'd be interested in pushing FP4+ to 200 or 400. I generally use Pyro-510 and perfer semi-stand procesing.
Many thanks for the interesting videos.
It’s pronounced “buyroyt”. I used to think Richard Wagner was the guy from Hart to Hart so I’m not here to throw stones…