Beautiful bowl Frank. When you do this in the future, you have to turn the entire bowl in one sitting or it WILL crack no matter how green the wood. You can also control how much the bowl moves after you're done by burying it (or not) in its own shavings as you did for this bowl. I can't wait to see what you make next. I love these videos.
In addition, for large bowls like this, you can save yourself a lot of work by using a bowl saver or coring kit. This will allow you to get several bowls out of one blank and reduce the time required to get all the inside turned out.
Frank, I turn most of my bowls and vessels as green and wet. I also have young kids and get interrupted here and there. If you need to walk away from the project pull the tail stock back put a heavy garbage bag over it and tape it with painters tape just behind the chuck. I have left many a vessel this way for days on end and then open them and went back to work with no issue. Mold could form if left for extended long periods and your chuck might rust a wee bit. I enjoyed your outlook on this project.
You keep us all inspired Frank! challenging yourself makes others want to do so. You have a huge impact on the woodworking community, in so much that you lead it. :)
The wood is natural and it is refreshing to see an effort that allows for natural processes participate in the final form of the project. It is beautiful! 🎈🎈
what I really like is that Japanese technique for repairing things using gold with an adhesive. I think the bowl would look great with veins of gold filling the cracks. nice video Frank, good to see you turning again
I havent turned in more than 10 years, but am possibly moving to a house with a great shop and have been inhaling your videos along with plenty of other woodworking videos. One of the prettiest bowls I made on my lathe was a piece of eucalyptus that was taken from a fresh cut limb. I was able to get it super thin and when it dried it looked almost like an oak leaf that was very curled up on the sides.
I would just let the wood be the form it wants to be. To me, that is the beauty in turning and I get much joy in watching nature tell me what it wants to do.
A novice woodworker sees a crack and then tosses their work into the fire. A good woodworker sees a crack and fixes or removes it. A master woodworker sees a crack and makes the crack an unique and beautiful feature of their work. Great job Master!
4:01 I really enjoyed the way you explained that. I had not noticed that you didn't turn the "correct" way before, but it's so great seeing someone with that much talent and experience still learn and improve. The shots accompanied with the explanation was just brilliant as well! Always love the woodturning videos!
Frank, great firdt effort on a thin walled bowl. One of my friends is a nationally recognized wood turner once advised me to accentuate a crack with leather lacing. You know, show it off. Thanks again for another great video. Jim
Great job Frank. I've been turning a lot of natural edge and thin bowls and it really tests my skills at the lathe. You go a great job capturing the process to. I wish I had the video skills you do.
Hello Frank, Just came upon your video. Nice work and your success in overcoming the split bowl. Basically I've found its best to not start with a split piece of wood. I generally I start turning the piece immediately after the tree completes its second bounce off the ground after its felled, and not stop turning from start to finish, If I have to interrupt the turning, its bagged without removing from the lathe. Cracks are also aggravated by vibrations induced by overextending the chisel point from the tool rest. Oneway makes a curved rest to keep the chisel well supported, and close to the bowl face. Works well on the bowl outside and reasonably well inside, and a homemade `J` shape rest for the floor. I just spent the past week prepping about 80+ bowl blanks and all are plastic-bagged to control drying and cracking. Though I`m not thinwalling, I should get about 120-150 bowls in the end, maybe more I hope. Keep on turnin!
HI Frank, just in time for my second cup of coffee. Really enjoyed the sharing of your learning curve. The quality of your videos and the creativity you put to the projects disguises the fact you are learning as you go along with the rest of us...:-). You will get less cracking if you cut the pith out during the initial logging, it is highly unstable. Not sure if it is available in Oregon, but Arbutus (or Madrona as commonly called in WA) moves a lot as it dries. Thanks for sharing, your channel is my favourite spot to visit for morning coffee.
Frank, I think you could repair the cracks in that thin wall maple bowl by drilling 1/16" holes with a Dremel about 1/8" from each side of the crack. then you could use stainless steel wire, or copper wire to stitch the cracks back together. it would also add a cool asthetic to the finished bowl..you could also drill the same size holes around the rim and use a whip stitch with the same wire to further enhance the appearance. I have used this technique for years in my leather crafting, making leather dice cups and stitching the center seam and the rim with either solid copper, or stainless steel.looks very striking on the finished product. Scott l.
Seems that letting it continue to dry followed by gluing (if necessary) is the way to go forward. Carving out the thin walls would be interesting, but I'm sure it'll require a decent learning curve...which is why we make things ourselves in the first place. Another outstanding video Frank!
Woodydondon from Australia. I've turned wet wood to 2-3 mm for years, self taught, some tips you may want to try are:- 1,soak for a month or longer, in water with dish washing liquid, denatured alcohol. This will dissolve sap and float it away from the wood ,take it out periodically and wipe it off. 2. Cut it to a rough size late in the day and wrap it in several layers of food wrap start early next day and cut as you are doing doing periodically spray it with water, if you have to go away (lunch etc.)wrap it up again. get to your required size put into a paper bag and bury in a box of shavings; leave for as long as you thing is suitable,and then leave it a week or 2 longer. You now have a base for using an air turbine cutter. My favourite is Joey Richardson! on the net.
Apple moves quite a bit when turned. I have only done small ones b/c I have a mini lathe but they make very nice bowls and the apple sands VERY smooth! Very impressive thinness you were able to get to. I vote for leave it as is and glue it after it stabilizes. Beautiful piece!
Well done! Two suggestions for improving your turning technique: First, the direction of cut is really important. For a piece that is mounted with the grain running across the bed of the lathe (as was the case with this bowl) you should turn from the smaller diameter toward the larger diameter. When cutting in this direction, the wood fibers support the cut and you'll have less tear out. (For pieces with the grain running parallel with the bed, you should cut from larger to smaller diameter.) Sometimes you cannot cut in the "right" direction, but you should when you can. Second, try using a push cut (where the handle of the bowl gouge is behind the cut). What you were using is a pull cut. In general, a push cut will leave a better surface than a pul cut. Properly oriented, the tip of you gouge will remove the bulk of the wood and the trailing wing of the gouge will clean up the surface. If you can find a copy, Bill Gumbine has an excellent DVD on turning bowls in which he demonstrates both the pull and push cuts. Another excellent resource is Lyle Jamieson's TH-cam channel. Here is a link to Lyle's video on the push cut: th-cam.com/video/1HF9IGdHCTA/w-d-xo.html, and here is his video on direction of cut: th-cam.com/video/qnym1IyOPgE/w-d-xo.html. HTH
As always, a very nice video. Thanks for making it. In terms of what could be done with the cracks: in European prehistory cracked wooden vessels were often "sewn" together with wet rawhide, which upon drying pulls the cracks together.
Frank, Great video. Your turning has always been good, but there have certainly been some big improvements. If I may give a small tip from one bowl turner to another. The inside of your bowl has some small ridges. With a thin-walled bowl, it's tough to get those sanded out safely, so it's all about making that final cut count. I grind off the "heel" of the grind on my gouge and it's cuts that down, almost like a secondary bevel. So the bevel of your grind is key in making a clean cut to follow, but the heel that's on there drags every so slightly and causes tiny rises and falls in the cut as you curve it inward. Can't wait to see your next video.
It would be really cool to turn thin walled bowls like this and use them as lamp shades. It would be cool to play with how the light filters through the wood.
I like this video as a self taught turner my self I like what you did. Not sure I am up to the thin wall turning as yet but I'm getting there. I will be gluing up some blanks soon. Thanks
It would be such a great and unique way to hold the cracks together. Would really add something special to the look of the bowl. It would literally and figuratively tie it together.
Even some miniature bow tie splines would be really nice. It would be tricky chisel work not having a flat surface, but I know you could pull it off Frank.
I know this response is a long time after you posted this video, but in Japan, when something has been broken, like a cup or bowl, what they would do traditionally is glue the pieces back together, but use gold to mark where the cracks were, to show the beauty of imperfection. You could do something like that with it, but perhaps use a material in place of the gold that would look nice with the wood.
Great looking bowl. Always like to see your videos. When you are turning the outside I have found if you start from the bottom at the foot of the bowl and turn towards rim you should get cleaner cuts. The wood fibers have support during the cut. Keep up the good work. Your videos are alway entertaining.
hi Frank i really like your videos always look forward to seeing them. In my opinion robbiethewoodturner here on youtube has some of the best tool presentation techniques that you are likely to see on bowl turning, thanks for the upload
Cedar can move a ton if cut before acclimating to your shop. I had once resawn 3/4" rough eastern red cedar into 3 equal veneers, and over the 5 inch width, the most extreme area delfected over an inch in just a day.
Try madrone. It moves a ton and I bet it would work great in a piece like this. Awesome work as usual Frank!! Perhaps you were inspired at the Oregon woodturning symposium!!
Not sure if there'd be a way to hold it, but a couple of bowties CNCed across the cracks, and then an insert glued in place would be an interesting technique. Great work as always Frank!
Frank you ran into all the things I run into trying to make a thin walled bowl. One trick I haven't tried that I've seen others do is keep a spray bottle close to keep the wood wet while you work because it will dry and warp as you work. Other tricks are to use superglue to stabilize the crack or epoxy to fill the crack. While watching I though of maybe a couple bowtie joints. Looks nice. I'm going to try hickory for the first time for a bowl. Not sure how that will work.
Hey guy, I'm no pro at turning but I have a solution to your cracks. I've had this happen before and I just put in inlayed bowties to strengthen each crack. It works quite well. Love your videos!!!
You could glaze the interior with epoxy resin, that would stiffen the bowl and seal the crack. Alternatively, you could put a really thick layer of epoxy/acrylic on the inside, then CNC away the bow, leaving an intricate pattern that is backed up with acrylic to support it. It would still work as a bowl after the machining process because the acrylic would form a full bowl.
Frank, once again you put together a really interesting project video and turned out (pun so intended) a neat piece of art. I just started turning green wood myself and I use Pentacryl to help keep the wood from cracking. (Granted it would not have helped that big crack that was already there but it might have helped after the first turning.) Anyway, thanks again for sharing your time, your craft and your art with us.
Hey Frank! Looked like a few of your pull cuts were rubbing the bev, but others wernt. Could be why you are getting some amazing cuts and some not so amazing cuts. Amazing product as always!
@frank howarth, hey frank I think you could get a fourth axis going for you cnc and use something like ArtCAM to design a relief to go around the outside rim like you showed. From there you could put some like black paint into the relief so that you can see it without having to shine a light through the wall
I've been criticizing myself a lot lately for my own technique also, I watched a guy cutting with the side of the gouge and the flute faced up, crazy aggressive I think that your technique looked a lot safer. Anyway nice practice for turning thin. Take care Rob
One option (though it might make it worse) for the crack is to sew it up with thin copper thread. drill a row of holes on both sides of the crack and sew like a piece of cloth.
Maybe part of the cracking problem is that the wood is not homogeneous, so it kind of has different structures (and colors) doing their thing by themselves. So, I wonder if a more uniform wet wood would solve this issue. Great video Frank! I'm learning to turn (mostly ebony and yew) so it's very interesting to see how you do too!
Glad to see a turning video again Frank!
Beautiful bowl Frank. When you do this in the future, you have to turn the entire bowl in one sitting or it WILL crack no matter how green the wood. You can also control how much the bowl moves after you're done by burying it (or not) in its own shavings as you did for this bowl. I can't wait to see what you make next. I love these videos.
yes, I think on the next one I need to do it all at once.
this is what I was going to suggest as well. I have done a few and you have to get it all turned in one shot.
In addition, for large bowls like this, you can save yourself a lot of work by using a bowl saver or coring kit. This will allow you to get several bowls out of one blank and reduce the time required to get all the inside turned out.
Frank, I turn most of my bowls and vessels as green and wet. I also have young kids and get interrupted here and there. If you need to walk away from the project pull the tail stock back put a heavy garbage bag over it and tape it with painters tape just behind the chuck. I have left many a vessel this way for days on end and then open them and went back to work with no issue. Mold could form if left for extended long periods and your chuck might rust a wee bit. I enjoyed your outlook on this project.
That step technique for getting thin walls was gold! Great idea!!
Even though I'm a perfectionist, I like the cracks. They add character to the piece. It's art, not a cereal bowl!
Beautiful job, as always, Frank.
You keep us all inspired Frank! challenging yourself makes others want to do so. You have a huge impact on the woodworking community, in so much that you lead it. :)
Wood is a living material. Seeing it becoming not round anymore is a nice thing. It show us that sometimes, we can't really do what we have planed.
The wood is natural and it is refreshing to see an effort that allows for natural processes participate in the final form of the project. It is beautiful! 🎈🎈
Great seeing you try new things! Too many people get used to one technique and stick to it, not realising they're limiting themselves, great work!
what I really like is that Japanese technique for repairing things using gold with an adhesive. I think the bowl would look great with veins of gold filling the cracks. nice video Frank, good to see you turning again
intellectually i know we all keep learning, but it's still refreshing to know someone as accomplished as you are is still honing your technique! :)
I havent turned in more than 10 years, but am possibly moving to a house with a great shop and have been inhaling your videos along with plenty of other woodworking videos. One of the prettiest bowls I made on my lathe was a piece of eucalyptus that was taken from a fresh cut limb. I was able to get it super thin and when it dried it looked almost like an oak leaf that was very curled up on the sides.
I didn't know you were self taught. You'd never know from your videos. Another great project. Thanks for posting.
I would just let the wood be the form it wants to be. To me, that is the beauty in turning and I get much joy in watching nature tell me what it wants to do.
I'm not sure what you're better at video making or woodworking but I'm sure glad you do both excellent work.
A novice woodworker sees a crack and then tosses their work into the fire. A good woodworker sees a crack and fixes or removes it. A master woodworker sees a crack and makes the crack an unique and beautiful feature of their work. Great job Master!
Nice bowl, very well made. The cracks add a little realistic character!
4:01 I really enjoyed the way you explained that. I had not noticed that you didn't turn the "correct" way before, but it's so great seeing someone with that much talent and experience still learn and improve. The shots accompanied with the explanation was just brilliant as well! Always love the woodturning videos!
Thanks, yes always learning
Frank, great firdt effort on a thin walled bowl. One of my friends is a nationally recognized wood turner once advised me to accentuate a crack with leather lacing. You know, show it off. Thanks again for another great video.
Jim
that was "first" effort ! :-(
jim renderer you can edit your comment.
More thin bowl turning please Frank! Would love to see some really exotic woods too if possible.
I just love the thinking out loud narrative, it's sometimes hard to know what's next and I just enjoy that process.
Happy to see you turning again!!!
Masterful. Even when you are learning, your artistry shines through (no pun intended). Thanks for this.
That's the video I needed today! So nice I could almost feel the warm shavings on my hands... final result is a masterpiece!
Great job Frank. I've been turning a lot of natural edge and thin bowls and it really tests my skills at the lathe. You go a great job capturing the process to. I wish I had the video skills you do.
Hello Frank,
Just came upon your video. Nice work and your success in overcoming the split bowl.
Basically I've found its best to not start with a split piece of wood. I generally I start turning the piece immediately after the tree completes its second bounce off the ground after its felled, and not stop turning from start to finish, If I have to interrupt the turning, its bagged without removing from the lathe.
Cracks are also aggravated by vibrations induced by overextending the chisel point from the tool rest. Oneway makes a curved rest to keep the chisel well supported, and close to the bowl face. Works well on the bowl outside and reasonably well inside, and a homemade `J` shape rest for the floor.
I just spent the past week prepping about 80+ bowl blanks and all are plastic-bagged to control drying and cracking. Though I`m not thinwalling, I should get about 120-150 bowls in the end, maybe more I hope.
Keep on turnin!
HI Frank, just in time for my second cup of coffee. Really enjoyed the sharing of your learning curve. The quality of your videos and the creativity you put to the projects disguises the fact you are learning as you go along with the rest of us...:-). You will get less cracking if you cut the pith out during the initial logging, it is highly unstable. Not sure if it is available in Oregon, but Arbutus (or Madrona as commonly called in WA) moves a lot as it dries. Thanks for sharing, your channel is my favourite spot to visit for morning coffee.
Even with the cracks its a beautiful piece. Thanks for sharing.
I really liked the thin wall of this bowl Frank, looks absolutely amazing
Beautiful piece!
Frank, I think you could repair the cracks in that thin wall maple bowl by drilling 1/16" holes with a Dremel about 1/8" from each side of the crack. then you could use stainless steel wire, or copper wire to stitch the cracks back together. it would also add a cool asthetic to the finished bowl..you could also drill the same size holes around the rim and use a whip stitch with the same wire to further enhance the appearance. I have used this technique for years in my leather crafting, making leather dice cups and stitching the center seam and the rim with either solid copper, or stainless steel.looks very striking on the finished product. Scott l.
That's cool, I like it
A nice big fresh lump of Eucalyptus will go from perfectly round to American football shape beautifully, Frank. Good work here!
Frank, this is spectacular work. I hope you keep making these videos - I love both your woodworking and cinematography. Please keep it up!
Seems that letting it continue to dry followed by gluing (if necessary) is the way to go forward. Carving out the thin walls would be interesting, but I'm sure it'll require a decent learning curve...which is why we make things ourselves in the first place. Another outstanding video Frank!
Woodydondon from Australia. I've turned wet wood to 2-3 mm for years, self taught, some tips you may want to try are:- 1,soak for a month or longer, in water with dish washing liquid, denatured alcohol. This will dissolve sap and float it away from the wood ,take it out periodically and wipe it off. 2. Cut it to a rough size late in the day and wrap it in several layers of food wrap start early next day and cut as you are doing doing periodically spray it with water, if you have to go away (lunch etc.)wrap it up again. get to your required size put into a paper bag and bury in a box of shavings; leave for as long as you thing is suitable,and then leave it a week or 2 longer. You now have a base for using an air turbine cutter. My favourite is Joey Richardson! on the net.
That's still a pretty impressive bowl. Lots of good suggestions on how to fill the cracks.
Fantastic! Such skill you have Frank!
That bowl is gorgeous.
Apple moves quite a bit when turned. I have only done small ones b/c I have a mini lathe but they make very nice bowls and the apple sands VERY smooth! Very impressive thinness you were able to get to. I vote for leave it as is and glue it after it stabilizes. Beautiful piece!
Very nice bowl and glad you're happy with the new technique! Will be interesting to see what you come up with for the next step!
Woohoo Frank!! I love it
Great Job 🌪
Thats a great bowl, amazing that you got it so thin
This is my favorite TH-cam channel. I'd leave that bowl just as it is...doesn't need "fixing," imo.
Good one Frank. Really enjoyed this one.
Man, you are amazing! your turning skills and your photography+filmography skills alike. absolutely love your work.
Never really appreciated the size of your bandsaw, but bloody hell its huge man! You look tiny next to it!
Well done! Two suggestions for improving your turning technique: First, the direction of cut is really important. For a piece that is mounted with the grain running across the bed of the lathe (as was the case with this bowl) you should turn from the smaller diameter toward the larger diameter. When cutting in this direction, the wood fibers support the cut and you'll have less tear out. (For pieces with the grain running parallel with the bed, you should cut from larger to smaller diameter.) Sometimes you cannot cut in the "right" direction, but you should when you can. Second, try using a push cut (where the handle of the bowl gouge is behind the cut). What you were using is a pull cut. In general, a push cut will leave a better surface than a pul cut. Properly oriented, the tip of you gouge will remove the bulk of the wood and the trailing wing of the gouge will clean up the surface. If you can find a copy, Bill Gumbine has an excellent DVD on turning bowls in which he demonstrates both the pull and push cuts. Another excellent resource is Lyle Jamieson's TH-cam channel. Here is a link to Lyle's video on the push cut: th-cam.com/video/1HF9IGdHCTA/w-d-xo.html, and here is his video on direction of cut: th-cam.com/video/qnym1IyOPgE/w-d-xo.html. HTH
As always, a very nice video. Thanks for making it. In terms of what could be done with the cracks: in European prehistory cracked wooden vessels were often "sewn" together with wet rawhide, which upon drying pulls the cracks together.
Frank, Great video. Your turning has always been good, but there have certainly been some big improvements. If I may give a small tip from one bowl turner to another. The inside of your bowl has some small ridges. With a thin-walled bowl, it's tough to get those sanded out safely, so it's all about making that final cut count. I grind off the "heel" of the grind on my gouge and it's cuts that down, almost like a secondary bevel. So the bevel of your grind is key in making a clean cut to follow, but the heel that's on there drags every so slightly and causes tiny rises and falls in the cut as you curve it inward. Can't wait to see your next video.
Watching the loops of shavings come off the bowl at 3:34 was glorious!
could see something like that being a cool light shade
I have always loved your turnings. They inspired me to get my own lathe (not at big as yours though). Thank you for the inspiration.
Awesome!
Every time I see that band saw it blows my mind haha. Great looking bowl.
It would be really cool to turn thin walled bowls like this and use them as lamp shades. It would be cool to play with how the light filters through the wood.
I love the insight into turning you give in this video. Thanks!
It came out lovely - always refreshing to see traditional craftsmanship.
Curious to whether a CNC could achieve these results, without man's touch...
I like this video as a self taught turner my self I like what you did. Not sure I am up to the thin wall turning as yet but I'm getting there. I will be gluing up some blanks soon. Thanks
We missed you man thanks for a great video.
I hope you make another one because it is very nice and interesting.
Great video Frank. Thanks for sharing your lessons learned.
Another great video Frank, thanks for sharing.
Great skills getting that so thin! Have you considered stitching the cracks? I wonder if very thin walnut stringing, soaked, would be flexible enough?
i like that idea
How about some Kintsugi-like technique using powdered gold and a glue?
It would be such a great and unique way to hold the cracks together. Would really add something special to the look of the bowl. It would literally and figuratively tie it together.
You got instagram? There is a swedish guy called svarvulf (lathe Ulf) on there and he makes really thin bowls and somethime stich them. Or carve them.
Even some miniature bow tie splines would be really nice. It would be tricky chisel work not having a flat surface, but I know you could pull it off Frank.
great work Frank. I think you should leave the bowl alone now it's already very beautiful. Cheers, Gary
Nice project Frank, enjoyed this content.
I know this response is a long time after you posted this video, but in Japan, when something has been broken, like a cup or bowl, what they would do traditionally is glue the pieces back together, but use gold to mark where the cracks were, to show the beauty of imperfection. You could do something like that with it, but perhaps use a material in place of the gold that would look nice with the wood.
Great looking bowl. Always like to see your videos. When you are turning the outside I have found if you start from the bottom at the foot of the bowl and turn towards rim you should get cleaner cuts. The wood fibers have support during the cut. Keep up the good work. Your videos are alway entertaining.
hi Frank i really like your videos always look forward to seeing them. In my opinion robbiethewoodturner here on youtube has some of the best tool presentation techniques that you are likely to see on bowl turning, thanks for the upload
Awesome!
I love your calm approach to a project.
And always enjoy your videos!
Thank you!
Nice work. I wouldn't worry too much about the bowl not being perfectly round, I think it looks more interesting as it is!
Cedar can move a ton if cut before acclimating to your shop. I had once resawn 3/4" rough eastern red cedar into 3 equal veneers, and over the 5 inch width, the most extreme area delfected over an inch in just a day.
Try madrone. It moves a ton and I bet it would work great in a piece like this. Awesome work as usual Frank!! Perhaps you were inspired at the Oregon woodturning symposium!!
Not sure if there'd be a way to hold it, but a couple of bowties CNCed across the cracks, and then an insert glued in place would be an interesting technique. Great work as always Frank!
Beautiful bowl, Frank! Those super thin walled ones are tricky! If you're looking for something that warps a lot but is still crack resistant try elm.
Would love to see more of these thin-walled bowls.
maybe do it on the end-grain instead of across like this one was?
Very nice Frank, love it.
Great Piece, Love your editing techniques!
wow .. nice work frank and "Hi from Algeria" thanks
Frank you ran into all the things I run into trying to make a thin walled bowl. One trick I haven't tried that I've seen others do is keep a spray bottle close to keep the wood wet while you work because it will dry and warp as you work. Other tricks are to use superglue to stabilize the crack or epoxy to fill the crack. While watching I though of maybe a couple bowtie joints. Looks nice. I'm going to try hickory for the first time for a bowl. Not sure how that will work.
Hey guy, I'm no pro at turning but I have a solution to your cracks. I've had this happen before and I just put in inlayed bowties to strengthen each crack. It works quite well. Love your videos!!!
That is a very pretty bowl.
You could glaze the interior with epoxy resin, that would stiffen the bowl and seal the crack. Alternatively, you could put a really thick layer of epoxy/acrylic on the inside, then CNC away the bow, leaving an intricate pattern that is backed up with acrylic to support it. It would still work as a bowl after the machining process because the acrylic would form a full bowl.
Frank, once again you put together a really interesting project video and turned out (pun so intended) a neat piece of art.
I just started turning green wood myself and I use Pentacryl to help keep the wood from cracking. (Granted it would not have helped that big crack that was already there but it might have helped after the first turning.)
Anyway, thanks again for sharing your time, your craft and your art with us.
very nice as usual. I like the idea of stitching as others have suggested.
It would be interesting to see a Kintsugi-style wooden bowl where you fill the crack with some other material (i.e., metal, epoxy, etc.).
Looks good! I'd definitely like to see more thin walled bowls in the future :)
Its fun to see your skills improve.
Thanks Frank. Always a treat :)
Hey Frank! Looked like a few of your pull cuts were rubbing the bev, but others wernt. Could be why you are getting some amazing cuts and some not so amazing cuts. Amazing product as always!
Very, very interesting, Frank. Thank you.
Incredible as always!!!
Just accept the cracks frank ;) looks beautiful no matter what. Great video as always
@frank howarth, hey frank I think you could get a fourth axis going for you cnc and use something like ArtCAM to design a relief to go around the outside rim like you showed. From there you could put some like black paint into the relief so that you can see it without having to shine a light through the wall
I've been criticizing myself a lot lately for my own technique also, I watched a guy cutting with the side of the gouge and the flute faced up, crazy aggressive I think that your technique looked a lot safer.
Anyway nice practice for turning thin.
Take care
Rob
One option (though it might make it worse) for the crack is to sew it up with thin copper thread. drill a row of holes on both sides of the crack and sew like a piece of cloth.
Hi, nice work.
Have you considered resin for filling the cracks?
This was exactly my thought.
My thought as well. I was thinking it could look very nice in a Kintsugi style. Lacquer mixed with powdered gold.
That's what I thought. Put painters tape on both sides, and squeezing epoxy in from the top, if you understand what I mean.
Maybe part of the cracking problem is that the wood is not homogeneous, so it kind of has different structures (and colors) doing their thing by themselves. So, I wonder if a more uniform wet wood would solve this issue. Great video Frank! I'm learning to turn (mostly ebony and yew) so it's very interesting to see how you do too!
Nice to have good machines.
If you're addicted to beauty this is the channel for you.
Beautiful bowl
If you can get it out there, try a green block of Beech. It turns nicely and moves A LOT when it dries.
Learned a lot, will try myself.