I did this upgrade on my 22re after seeing u did it on the other truck works great got an extra 2 mpg out of my 4wd. However I installed the resistor because this video hadn’t come out and the blaster 2 instruction asked for it, did u do anything to address the resistor it asks for? Is it not needed for this application?
The resistor's main function is to help prevent the point contacts from burning up due to too much amperage flowing across them. However, with the Toyota 22RE, it uses a hall effect signal generator and coil (basically electronic crank fire ignition, but on the 22RE it's located in the distributor, not on the crank itself, like what you'd find on a race motor). So because there is an air gap in there and it's only generating a pulse signal, you don't really need that resistor in the mix. Now if you are installing this MSD blaster coil on a 1965 mustang - which does have contact points - then yes, I would say you need to wire in that resistor they show in the instructions. But for the Toyota 22RE it's not really required. It won't hurt anything, but it's not as critical because there are no points to protect.
Makes sense to me u think it would work better without it? Just curious on ur thoughts I’ll probably remove it anyways, thanks for all the videos very helpful! I have also cut my spark plugs like previously videos works like a charm ur the man!
@@samuelfriesen1867 Yeah, that little spark plug mod is pretty nice, especially on a more modified motor. As far as the coil, that ballast resistor's job is to help control arcing across the points basically. If one looks at how points function in an older car, we can kinda understand better what is taking place: in am old school point type distributor system: when the points are closed, energy is sent to the primary winding of the ignition coil.. this builds up a magnetic field at ~12V in the primary coil. When the points open (and the duration they are opened is measured in dwell angle), the field in the primary coil collapses (because the points open and terminate the flow of electrons) and this energizes the secondary coil (as the field collapses across it); the secondary coil is an attractive route back to ground, because it's directly connected to whatever spark plug is about to fire off. Since there is a difference between the number of windings in the primary vs. secondary coils, you see a huge voltage jump from the nominal 12-14 Volts clear up to more like 12,000 volts (there is also a corresponding current drop as well in the circuit) All that is fine and dandy, however, because the points have to traverse from fully closed to fully open, they momentarily produce a very brief gap that isn't all that big and which some electrons might view as a more attractive route back home. In other words, a very slightly open set of points momentarily looks like a tiny spark plug. If you didn't have a ballast resistor, a higher number of electrons would be perfectly happy to take that route, as opposed to waiting for the primary field to fully collapse. When they back track as it were, they create their own tiny spark / arc and this is what serves to burn up your points in an older car with a more classic type points ignition system; when the electrons jump the tiny initial gap on the points, it's like a tiny welder in there arcing up the surface of your points. This is why on older cars you are constantly having to clean the points and check your dwell angle, etc. Anyway, the ballast resistor is there to help prevent some of this from occurring with as much current as would happen without the resistor in the circuit; the added resistance basically makes the electrons more prone to wanna just do their thing inside the coil, as opposed to back at the points. So if you have mechanical points then yeah you need the ballast resister in the mix, because it will help extend the life of your points and prevent them from burning up as quickly. However, in a situation where there are no points making physical contact over and over again, then it's basically a non-issue. With the Toyota, you have a hall effect deal in there where you have a rotor and signal coil that is not physically touching. It has a constant air gap in the 22RE distributor and this is acting as its own built in resistor in effect (by virtue of the air gap always being a gap; not opening and closing like points where the contact pads actually touch and open/close). So because there is no mechanical surfaces that touch, the air gap is sort of a bridge too far for the electrons and they just prefer to stay focused in the primary coil and drop their energy over to the secondary coil that is grounded by virtue of the spark plug, cylinder head, etc. They see the path back to ground (via the secondary coil) as a more attractive route than trying to jump back across the rotor / signal generator stuff inside the distributor. So the short answer is yeah, you can remove the ballast resistor and there should be no negative impacts whatsoever. In fact, you'll probably get a slightly hotter spark without the ballast resistor in there and since there are no points to worry about, there shouldn't be any downside to removing it. Most likely you'll see a slight reduction in burn time on the spark plug side and perhaps a slight increase in voltage levels present at the spark plug wire as well. If you happen to have a TA500 diagnostic tool, you can actually check all this and see the exact burn time in milliseconds and voltage levels, etc. I use that tool here to confirm all is well with my ignition system, spark plugs, wires, coil, etc, etc. This is the model I use here (I use it mostly for stuff like chainsaws, but it's handy for automotive engines as well): www.amazon.com/TA500-Smartach-Multisystem-Ignition-Analyzer/dp/B001TCWMGS/
Gotcha appreciate the info, I actually have a stroker 22re and that spark is very helpful to get the power out of it along with resist the higher compression, I’m familiar with the old points, I’ve played with them a handful of time
@@samuelfriesen1867 Yeah, adjusted the points on my '66 mustang and '70's Datsuns many times myself :) What compression ratio are you running? That MSD 8222 coil should be pushing around 12-14K volts at the plugs if all is well. Are you running traditional Denso W16's or maybe 20's with that strap mod? Did you remove the strap completely or do the side ground routine that I showed recently in the video?
Engine bay looks so clean and open and tidy .. takes a lot of effort and talent to do that in that small of a space, and the stock 22RE, as good as they are and relatively easy to do basic maintenance on did always did seem kind of wirey/hosey
@@ray5961 Would enjoy hearing your thoughts one day on converting a 22RE to a 22R .. dont think I would do that, but, idk, still have the idea lingering around in the back of my mind. Lose a little power for a little added simplicity.
@@tedbastwock3810 Yeah, I hear ya. I've thought about it also. I think if I were gonna go that route, I'd run 44mm Mikuni side draft carbs and fabricate up some sort of custom manifold off the stock intake runners or something. That would be pretty bad ass. I used to run a dual side draft 2.2L Datsun motor that was super fun to drive. So I'm with ya. The EFI is nice, but it's a headache too. There's something to be said for carbs and electronic ignition.
Oh yeah.. that could very well be. I'm not super up on the variations between models; my friend got the bumper off Craigslist and then I installed it for him but it went on kinda funky.
My 1991 4Runner started shutting down on me. It happened to me 3 years ago so I recognized it as the cheap Oreillys Ignitor replacement, didn't last too long. But back then, the El Cheapo ignitor from Oreillys was only $100. Now it goes for $400!!!. And YotaShop sells it for $200, but I'm assuming it's a cheapo brand, since they don't state that it's an OEM Toyota, like most of what they sell. Good thing is that the local pick your parts had a 1990 4runner. I just hope someone hasn't taken the ignitor yet.
Thanks for the Toyota information. I have a 1987 Toyota pickup with the 22RE engine and was wondering if it is normal for the air conditioning compressor to cut off when the truck is idling and then start back up when you start driving? If this is not normal, what can be done to fix the problem? A second question I have is, what do you think of the Davis Unified Ignition system for the 22RE? Is it any good, or do you think there is something better out there, or just stick with the stock system?
I'm not gonna be the one to ask about A/C stuff on the 22RE because I generally remove it, along with the P/S system, and throw all the parts into the trash... so can't really help you much there. The factory service manual (which can be found online) might have some info. As far as the Ignition system you mentioned: most of those sorts of systems are designed to bring cars which were in the dark ages back in the 60's (which mostly ran points) up into something more modern. In those cases, it helps a lot. However, with the 22RE, Toyota is already using a very good ignition system (almost crank fire like on a race motor). The stock system should be plenty fine. You could upgrade to the MSD 8222 coil and wires like I do, but even that is sort of overkill. The factory ignition system is very good right out of the box.
Hello! I have a 1993 Toyota pickup 2wd 22re all stocked I was wondering if someone could give some directions on what could improve my throttle response When i do quick snaps or fast acceleration engine takes long to catch or response to those type of reques These are the things I have done to the engjne - complete tune up - valve adjustment -engine was rebuild 5 years ago and even before rebuilding the engine it was acting like that - when engine is warm it can idle all day long at 550 RPMs meaning no vaccum leaks Could this MSD 8222 help me with this issue? Do i need to move my timing a few degrees advance? (Rigth now is sitting to what the manual recommends) if i need to advance the timing, how many degrees? I appreciate you help/comments
are you running with or without a catalytic converter? Sometimes the issue you are describing can be caused by modifications that improve flow (such as a camshaft, removing the cat, etc.).. what happens is under sudden throttle going to WOT, the mixture goes very lean and it takes the ECU a few seconds to get back to a better air fuel ratio - I have a video which addresses a mod I did to compensate for this exact issue here th-cam.com/video/2I8BEoQxemM/w-d-xo.htmlsi=PYgKtrvWHgDqZFV- you might also want to run some fuel injector cleaner through your tank (I like Berryman B12 fuel injector cleaner). Advancing the timing to 7 degrees from 5 can also help a little. Try to keep in mind that the 22RE isn't a super powerful motor and the factory ECU isn't designed around high performance road racing as much as smog and fuel efficiency.
@ray5961 thanks for the tips/suggestions actually I am in the works of getting a new Flowmaster series 40 and delete the catalytic converter I will take step by step to see my improvements then bump the timing to 7 degrees how you are suggesting
I added the links to the video description just now. Let me know if you have any further questions. The resistor thing is part of the stock Toyota wiring harness.
the coil and spark plug wires are two different kits - check the links in the description and you can see how it comes and where to get it. I like both myself.
Mainly in order to use the nicer MSD spark plug wires. On this year pickup, Toyota switched to thinner wires and a different design coil and this precludes you from using the MSD wires. The MSD 8222 coil is also high voltage. Nothing wrong with the stock setup, but in this particular case we just wanted the more old school coil setup and the 8.5mm MSD wires in the mix.
@@ray5961 wait im confused so i have to use the msd wires with the blaster or can i just use the stock wires they won't work? it makes the engine bay look wayy cleaner with that blaster!!
@@chefrobertcaldas If you have the older style 8mm wires (which I think were used up until maybe 93 or 94), then yes you can use the MSD blaster coil with the stock Toyota spark plug wires. But if you have the later, thinner (7mm) wires with the later square style coil, then you're gonna need the MSD wires as well. What year is your truck and which setup do you currently have?
@@ray5961 Wouldn’t it technically be better to run a slightly thicker wire to reduce resistance, since extending the wire increases resistance? I’m sure it’s negligible if there is any change, but if it doesn’t hurt why not.
@@ray5961 Also should I change my head ground location it’s currently on the exhaust side bolted into the head and the wire is grounded to the firewall.
@@e49erss While it is true that resistance is inversely proportional to cross section, we aren't really dealing with high enough current or voltage (nor length of run) to make this a significant factor. You could certainly use 16 or 14 ga wire here and be fine I think. Mostly cars use 18 ga wire because it's a nice balance between size, weight and durability. As long as the connections are secure, you should be fine no matter what wire size.
@@e49erss That's plenty good - just make sure there is no rust on the contact surfaces for that little wire back there. I do run a secondary ground strap on my motor, but it's really kinda overkill.
I did this upgrade on my 22re after seeing u did it on the other truck works great got an extra 2 mpg out of my 4wd. However I installed the resistor because this video hadn’t come out and the blaster 2 instruction asked for it, did u do anything to address the resistor it asks for? Is it not needed for this application?
The resistor's main function is to help prevent the point contacts from burning up due to too much amperage flowing across them. However, with the Toyota 22RE, it uses a hall effect signal generator and coil (basically electronic crank fire ignition, but on the 22RE it's located in the distributor, not on the crank itself, like what you'd find on a race motor). So because there is an air gap in there and it's only generating a pulse signal, you don't really need that resistor in the mix. Now if you are installing this MSD blaster coil on a 1965 mustang - which does have contact points - then yes, I would say you need to wire in that resistor they show in the instructions. But for the Toyota 22RE it's not really required. It won't hurt anything, but it's not as critical because there are no points to protect.
Makes sense to me u think it would work better without it? Just curious on ur thoughts I’ll probably remove it anyways, thanks for all the videos very helpful! I have also cut my spark plugs like previously videos works like a charm ur the man!
@@samuelfriesen1867 Yeah, that little spark plug mod is pretty nice, especially on a more modified motor. As far as the coil, that ballast resistor's job is to help control arcing across the points basically. If one looks at how points function in an older car, we can kinda understand better what is taking place: in am old school point type distributor system: when the points are closed, energy is sent to the primary winding of the ignition coil.. this builds up a magnetic field at ~12V in the primary coil. When the points open (and the duration they are opened is measured in dwell angle), the field in the primary coil collapses (because the points open and terminate the flow of electrons) and this energizes the secondary coil (as the field collapses across it); the secondary coil is an attractive route back to ground, because it's directly connected to whatever spark plug is about to fire off. Since there is a difference between the number of windings in the primary vs. secondary coils, you see a huge voltage jump from the nominal 12-14 Volts clear up to more like 12,000 volts (there is also a corresponding current drop as well in the circuit) All that is fine and dandy, however, because the points have to traverse from fully closed to fully open, they momentarily produce a very brief gap that isn't all that big and which some electrons might view as a more attractive route back home. In other words, a very slightly open set of points momentarily looks like a tiny spark plug. If you didn't have a ballast resistor, a higher number of electrons would be perfectly happy to take that route, as opposed to waiting for the primary field to fully collapse. When they back track as it were, they create their own tiny spark / arc and this is what serves to burn up your points in an older car with a more classic type points ignition system; when the electrons jump the tiny initial gap on the points, it's like a tiny welder in there arcing up the surface of your points. This is why on older cars you are constantly having to clean the points and check your dwell angle, etc. Anyway, the ballast resistor is there to help prevent some of this from occurring with as much current as would happen without the resistor in the circuit; the added resistance basically makes the electrons more prone to wanna just do their thing inside the coil, as opposed to back at the points. So if you have mechanical points then yeah you need the ballast resister in the mix, because it will help extend the life of your points and prevent them from burning up as quickly. However, in a situation where there are no points making physical contact over and over again, then it's basically a non-issue. With the Toyota, you have a hall effect deal in there where you have a rotor and signal coil that is not physically touching. It has a constant air gap in the 22RE distributor and this is acting as its own built in resistor in effect (by virtue of the air gap always being a gap; not opening and closing like points where the contact pads actually touch and open/close). So because there is no mechanical surfaces that touch, the air gap is sort of a bridge too far for the electrons and they just prefer to stay focused in the primary coil and drop their energy over to the secondary coil that is grounded by virtue of the spark plug, cylinder head, etc. They see the path back to ground (via the secondary coil) as a more attractive route than trying to jump back across the rotor / signal generator stuff inside the distributor. So the short answer is yeah, you can remove the ballast resistor and there should be no negative impacts whatsoever. In fact, you'll probably get a slightly hotter spark without the ballast resistor in there and since there are no points to worry about, there shouldn't be any downside to removing it. Most likely you'll see a slight reduction in burn time on the spark plug side and perhaps a slight increase in voltage levels present at the spark plug wire as well. If you happen to have a TA500 diagnostic tool, you can actually check all this and see the exact burn time in milliseconds and voltage levels, etc. I use that tool here to confirm all is well with my ignition system, spark plugs, wires, coil, etc, etc. This is the model I use here (I use it mostly for stuff like chainsaws, but it's handy for automotive engines as well): www.amazon.com/TA500-Smartach-Multisystem-Ignition-Analyzer/dp/B001TCWMGS/
Gotcha appreciate the info, I actually have a stroker 22re and that spark is very helpful to get the power out of it along with resist the higher compression, I’m familiar with the old points, I’ve played with them a handful of time
@@samuelfriesen1867 Yeah, adjusted the points on my '66 mustang and '70's Datsuns many times myself :) What compression ratio are you running? That MSD 8222 coil should be pushing around 12-14K volts at the plugs if all is well. Are you running traditional Denso W16's or maybe 20's with that strap mod? Did you remove the strap completely or do the side ground routine that I showed recently in the video?
Ray Nada posts, I push like button.
Thank you man, I appreciate that.
Engine bay looks so clean and open and tidy .. takes a lot of effort and talent to do that in that small of a space, and the stock 22RE, as good as they are and relatively easy to do basic maintenance on did always did seem kind of wirey/hosey
Thanks! Yeah, lots of crazy vacuum hoses and VSV's on the ol' 22RE there :)
@@ray5961 Would enjoy hearing your thoughts one day on converting a 22RE to a 22R .. dont think I would do that, but, idk, still have the idea lingering around in the back of my mind. Lose a little power for a little added simplicity.
@@tedbastwock3810 Yeah, I hear ya. I've thought about it also. I think if I were gonna go that route, I'd run 44mm Mikuni side draft carbs and fabricate up some sort of custom manifold off the stock intake runners or something. That would be pretty bad ass. I used to run a dual side draft 2.2L Datsun motor that was super fun to drive. So I'm with ya. The EFI is nice, but it's a headache too. There's something to be said for carbs and electronic ignition.
Wirey and hosey is right. Great phrase.
Looks like a 4x bumper , nice truck 🤙🏻
Oh yeah.. that could very well be. I'm not super up on the variations between models; my friend got the bumper off Craigslist and then I installed it for him but it went on kinda funky.
Looks good, man!
Thank you!
My 1991 4Runner started shutting down on me. It happened to me 3 years ago so I recognized it as the cheap Oreillys Ignitor replacement, didn't last too long. But back then, the El Cheapo ignitor from Oreillys was only $100. Now it goes for $400!!!. And YotaShop sells it for $200, but I'm assuming it's a cheapo brand, since they don't state that it's an OEM Toyota, like most of what they sell. Good thing is that the local pick your parts had a 1990 4runner. I just hope someone hasn't taken the ignitor yet.
In order to switch back to the older thicker plug wires. Do I have get a new distributer with cap and rotor?
Yeah most likely you're gonna need a new coil as well as cap/rotor. Also wire separators
I have a 1990 Toyota Pickup with the 22RE. Need a new ignition module but am having trouble finding a replacement. Any advice would be appreciated
generally eBay is where you would find something like that.
Thanks for the Toyota information. I have a 1987 Toyota pickup with the 22RE engine and was wondering if it is normal for the air conditioning compressor to cut off when the truck is idling and then start back up when you start driving? If this is not normal, what can be done to fix the problem? A second question I have is, what do you think of the Davis Unified Ignition system for the 22RE? Is it any good, or do you think there is something better out there, or just stick with the stock system?
I'm not gonna be the one to ask about A/C stuff on the 22RE because I generally remove it, along with the P/S system, and throw all the parts into the trash... so can't really help you much there. The factory service manual (which can be found online) might have some info. As far as the Ignition system you mentioned: most of those sorts of systems are designed to bring cars which were in the dark ages back in the 60's (which mostly ran points) up into something more modern. In those cases, it helps a lot. However, with the 22RE, Toyota is already using a very good ignition system (almost crank fire like on a race motor). The stock system should be plenty fine. You could upgrade to the MSD 8222 coil and wires like I do, but even that is sort of overkill. The factory ignition system is very good right out of the box.
Thanks for the info.@@ray5961
Hello!
I have a 1993 Toyota pickup 2wd 22re all stocked
I was wondering if someone could give some directions on what could improve my throttle response
When i do quick snaps or fast acceleration engine takes long to catch or response to those type of reques
These are the things I have done to the engjne
- complete tune up
- valve adjustment
-engine was rebuild 5 years ago and even before rebuilding the engine it was acting like that
- when engine is warm it can idle all day long at 550 RPMs meaning no vaccum leaks
Could this MSD 8222 help me with this issue? Do i need to move my timing a few degrees advance? (Rigth now is sitting to what the manual recommends) if i need to advance the timing, how many degrees?
I appreciate you help/comments
are you running with or without a catalytic converter? Sometimes the issue you are describing can be caused by modifications that improve flow (such as a camshaft, removing the cat, etc.).. what happens is under sudden throttle going to WOT, the mixture goes very lean and it takes the ECU a few seconds to get back to a better air fuel ratio - I have a video which addresses a mod I did to compensate for this exact issue here th-cam.com/video/2I8BEoQxemM/w-d-xo.htmlsi=PYgKtrvWHgDqZFV- you might also want to run some fuel injector cleaner through your tank (I like Berryman B12 fuel injector cleaner). Advancing the timing to 7 degrees from 5 can also help a little. Try to keep in mind that the 22RE isn't a super powerful motor and the factory ECU isn't designed around high performance road racing as much as smog and fuel efficiency.
@ray5961 thanks for the tips/suggestions actually I am in the works of getting a new Flowmaster series 40 and delete the catalytic converter I will take step by step to see my improvements then bump the timing to 7 degrees how you are suggesting
WHERE YOU GOT THE WIRE FOR THE COIL...
Which wire are you referring to? The red one comes in that kit (see description for the link).
Hi, can you share the amazon link for buy the high voltage coil and the resistor please? regards from Chile
I added the links to the video description just now. Let me know if you have any further questions. The resistor thing is part of the stock Toyota wiring harness.
Do u have to buy the spark plug wire too or is optional
the coil and spark plug wires are two different kits - check the links in the description and you can see how it comes and where to get it. I like both myself.
Where did you get your new igniter?
it's the original igniter that was bolted to the top of the square coil. We just changed the coil to the MSD 8222 one.
Ok. Thanks.
why do this upgarde? can you use stock wires? is it just to free up space?
Mainly in order to use the nicer MSD spark plug wires. On this year pickup, Toyota switched to thinner wires and a different design coil and this precludes you from using the MSD wires. The MSD 8222 coil is also high voltage. Nothing wrong with the stock setup, but in this particular case we just wanted the more old school coil setup and the 8.5mm MSD wires in the mix.
@ray5961 can you put a link wity all the parts you used for this? Is a dui distributor worth it?
@@chefrobertcaldas Links are in the description, but if there is anything specific you need just let me know. DUI is overkill for the 22RE I think.
@@ray5961 wait im confused so i have to use the msd wires with the blaster or can i just use the stock wires they won't work? it makes the engine bay look wayy cleaner with that blaster!!
@@chefrobertcaldas If you have the older style 8mm wires (which I think were used up until maybe 93 or 94), then yes you can use the MSD blaster coil with the stock Toyota spark plug wires. But if you have the later, thinner (7mm) wires with the later square style coil, then you're gonna need the MSD wires as well. What year is your truck and which setup do you currently have?
Is the igniter wires 16 gauge or 14?
Not sure off the top of my head, but most automotive wiring tends to be 18 ga as I remember
@@ray5961 Wouldn’t it technically be better to run a slightly thicker wire to reduce resistance, since extending the wire increases resistance? I’m sure it’s negligible if there is any change, but if it doesn’t hurt why not.
@@ray5961 Also should I change my head ground location it’s currently on the exhaust side bolted into the head and the wire is grounded to the firewall.
@@e49erss While it is true that resistance is inversely proportional to cross section, we aren't really dealing with high enough current or voltage (nor length of run) to make this a significant factor. You could certainly use 16 or 14 ga wire here and be fine I think. Mostly cars use 18 ga wire because it's a nice balance between size, weight and durability. As long as the connections are secure, you should be fine no matter what wire size.
@@e49erss That's plenty good - just make sure there is no rust on the contact surfaces for that little wire back there. I do run a secondary ground strap on my motor, but it's really kinda overkill.