Experimenting with Sharpening for print - Fotospeed | Paper for Fine Art & Photography

This week we are looking at sharpening for print and experimenting to see if we need to add any extra sharpening to an image for print. Or can we get away with sharpening for screen?___________________________________________________________________________________________________
Fotospeed - Whatever your photographic requirements, let our passion for image-making provide the solution.
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Fotospeed, inspired by image makers around the world, Fotospeed began life manufacturing quality darkroom chemistry and specialist fine art printmaking processes.
With 35 years of the photo trade dealing with printing paper and chemicals. The wide selection of papers available range from the everyday photo glossy to the Fine Art textured paper that can turn a photo into a painting. Lots of research and development have helped Fotospeed to create the perfect paper no matter what final result is needed and the ability of the paper to receive the photo inks has been fine tuned to perfection, giving even coverage whatever the subject matter.
With a respected reputation for quality and service, Fotospeed is now an established distribution company for worldwide market leading brands such as Hahnemuhle Fine Art Papers, Kaiser Photographic equipment, Herma Adhesives and Canson Infinity Papers.
Whatever your photographic requirements, let our passion for image making provide the solution.
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[@RobNotANumber]

Just got your channel recommended by the algorithm. Learning so much looking at these older videos. Congrats on a great channel

[@davidgrout3481]

Fascinating and very helpful.

[@ytuberization]

I can recommend output sharpening in Nik Sharpener Pro and QImage

[@hans-joachimrode1450]

Thank you for that informative video. Btw for Epson P700/900 you could use 360ppi and for Canon 300ppi

[@hugaukulele]

Thanks Tim, good video. However, a couple of points you didn't mention; noise and resolution. If your capture is high ISO, there will be a fair bit of noise in the image, especially in the dark areas. This need sto be reduced before sharpening, or you will be sharpening the noise edges. Output sharpening needs to be applied after the image size and resolution has been set. A good read for anyone wanting to understand sharpening is Bruce Fraser and Jeff Schewe's book 'Real World Sharpening (second edition)'. It was published in 2010, but the contents are still valid. This book has changed my way of thinking about, and applying sharpening, which until now, although reasonably successful, has been a bit of trial end error.

[@FotospeedUK]

Thank you for the tip on the book.

[@hugaukulele]

@@FotospeedUK Jeff Schewe's other two books, "The Digital Negative" and "The Digital Print" are also good reads and cover capture sharpening and sharpening for print, using Lightroom and Photoshop.

[@timauger]

For big prints: increased amount or increased radius?

[@keithmagee4450]

Thanks for another very helpful video. It’s helped me understand sharpening somewhat 👍

[@Sir_Grumpalot]

Very interesting video which rather reinforces my take on sharpening for print. One extra aspect which you did not mention is that we will probably be printing on something like, say, NST Bright White because we want a soft effect and therefore sharpening is the opposite of what we want. So it depends on what you are trying to create with your image.
You mention the idea of simple click print in the video and I was wondering if, within that general subject, you could look at Epsom Media Manager and Epson Print Layout. I have just bought an SC-P700, from yourselves of course, to replace my expired R3000 and am looking at this software as a great way of speeding up and simplifying the process of getting the settings correct for different papers. There are a number of questions on how it interacts with the printer which someone like yourself may be able to shed light on.
Thanks for the series of videos. They are now on my regular viewing list.

[@FotospeedUK]

Thank you for the video idea, it's certainly something we can look at.

[@paulduckworth1121]

Thanks - never really got to grips with sharpening before this. Good explanation.

[@FotospeedUK]

Glad it was helpful!

[@VinceNysse]

Great video Tim. I always found that using the print sharpen option within the LR print module gives me better results than screen sharpening / manual adjustment. I'm slightly gutted though as I am really enjoying using the canon print software with my new PRO-300, and that doesn't have an option for additional sharpening I don't believe. This leaves me with no option other than to apply manual adjustment sharpening in LR before going into the canon software for final print.

[@FotospeedUK]

Sadly there is no way around this one. Sharpening will have to take place in Lightroom then export into the PPL.

[@timpier7817]

Thanks for the info, looking forward to giving it a try.

[@FotospeedUK]

Have fun!

[@TerryDonnelly]

Good video Tim, thanks for making it.

[@FotospeedUK]

Glad you enjoyed it Terry.

[@billymilligan1369]

No need to continuously say "...to be honest...". We can assume you are being honest. Thanks for the video.

[@FotospeedUK]

I'll try seems to be a nervous tick, also need to stop saying thats drive in as well, Tim

[@sundeepsembi6091]

Loved this Tim. Thank you .

[@FotospeedUK]

Glad you enjoyed it

[@tundrusphoto4312]

Thanks for this. Very informative.

[@FotospeedUK]

Glad it was helpful!

[@artmaltman]

Important question. No one else is covering this! (that I have encountered)

[@davidshawe8982]

Surely the concept of sharpening more for large prints is wrong, because you are viewing from further away. I believe the opposite is true, and you should sharpen more for small prints. Certainly that’s my experience, although that is limited to A2 maximum.

[@FotospeedUK]

Hi David, I suppose it depends on how big you are going. I would normally run a few tests strips to see what level of output sharpening works best. Sounds like a good video to do, I will add it to my list. Thank you Tim

[@theoldfilmbloke]

I had a look at your other Video about 'BIT DEPTH' and contacted DS Colour Labs and they said " I should not worry about converting to 16-BIT" but I notice in your 'Lightroom' Print Section' you have set 16-BIT ' I do NOT have 'Lightroom' I have PhotoShop CC 2015 Edition and all my Film Scans and Digitals come out i 'MODE' as 8-BIT so do I have to click on 16-BIT ?

[@FotospeedUK]

Hi Peter, in most cases 8bit will be perfectly ok for most prints. I have it ticked so if the printer can use it, it can. Depending on the service you use at DS Colour Labs it could be a wet process which 8bit would be fine for. Best way to see is do some tests and find what works best for your workflow. Tim

[@huwalban]

Surely the matt papers will appear "softer" because the ink is being absorbed into the paper surface, whereas on the lustre papers the ink will sit on the surface?

[@gosman949]

thus the reason to sharpen for the matt papers more than lustre papers!