When im dropping and bucking a tree i don't limb it up all the way to the top first. I limb as I buck that way the branches actually hold the tree up off the ground. Basically processing the tree three or four feet at a time. Easier on the back and less chance of touching the ground. To each their own though, I always say. Love that ram horn. TC Mahalo Tinman 🤙🤙🤙
I’ve been bucking up a grapple load for my grandparents lately and a husky 390 XPW with a 32in bar square ground has been heaven on earth while cutting
I agree, I used 18 and 20 inch bars for 40 plus years and 3 years ago went to 28 and my hole out look changed. Oh, one safety tip I learned through the years is if you cut right to left the wood will fall away from you. when its on the ground it don't matter as much but when the poles are stacked and it rolls off it rolls right into you cutting left to right. I hope I explained that right. nice job Tinman
You got it right. I am 6'4" and my goto is my 661 with a 36"bar at 60 years young, I cant work bent over for any time. So standing up straight while bucking makes a big difference and with the bigger saw, I get more wood cut up in a shorter time. Small saws can take a serious chunk out of ones drinking time
It was awesome hearing your boy.😉 when you had the camera placed at the bottom of the log and you sped up the video it really did emphasize and show what you were talking about!
Hey Tinman finnished my 562 ported piped 28 full house. She cuts eh! Picked up 10 loads of logs in the last week. Whole lot of bucking to do❤ love your vids
There are pro's and con's to everything long bar's are not the be all answer to every cutting job, if your in a fairly clean area like where you were cutting in then it's fine. Try and limb out that same hairy tree in heavy underbrush with a long bar you would be played out in no time fighting your way through trying to move a long bar around, then you notice the weight real fast. Single stem bucking is also fine with a long bar but get a group of tree's pushed up together or on the side of a pulpwood pile with multiple tree's touching together, then a long bar has you "tipping'' your saw up in the air to get your bar nose down in the pile to cut; that has you lifting your saw up constantly with your elbow's up at shoulder height. I have bad shoulder's already and that make's it just plain painful and again it play's you out doing saw weight lifting lol! long bar's and yes short bar's all have their place it's just figuring out what work's best for the job your doing, take care Tinman.
I know what you are talking about, situations where you are bucking with the tip of the bar up around shoulder hight. I pretty much only cut in real thick stuff and I dont have trouble with a 28", for the tip up scenario I brace the rear grip against my body and run the saw left handed. The rear grip acts as a fulcrum and I'm using my right hand to lift on the front grip. For me this is pretty effecient.
@@bushleague3472 I'm well aware of "hipping" a saw to carry excess weight or try to carry less at arm's length but you can't always work with a saw like this, there is plenty of time's even with long bar's your reaching out and up in heavy brush even when just trying to move around with that saw when not cutting your fighting with your saw dragging it around in brush; that's what play's you out in a hurry. What your suggesting is dangerous work practice's you should never be running saw's off handed ie changing your hand set, they "saw's" are not designed to be run like that if they where manufacture's would tell you otherwise and they are very clear on this for safety reason's. Again ie in the wrong body position to deal with kick back, every manufacture along with safety courses offered by training school's for chainsaw certification needed to get a job by some company's tell you this. Another point I never made in my first post is long bar's are notorious for throwing chain's in brush they just are, anyone who's spent any amount of time cutting knows this. If your not throwing chain's then you have your chain tight like a fiddle string and that's bad news for your saw crank and clutch bearing's not to mention the excess heat build up your creating in that saw; but hey to each their own.
@@StuInTheSticks I pretty much only work in the thick stuff, and I basically went to a long bar because I work on snowshoes allot. On snowshoes, you are always working off balance with a short bar, and even still that bar ends up scary close to the edges of your snowshoes. Eventually I standardized and found ways to make a 28" work for me all around. Like you said, to each his own and on snowshoes, in the thick stuff, your body positioning will not always be ideal. I feel that carefully running the saw left-handed is occasionally the safest option. Running a saw in the bush results in a very dynamic working situation, relying solely on blanket rules made from the confines of an engineer's office to keep you safe is IMO unwise.
@@bushleague3472 We all work in different environments with different tree species and each have our own unique circumstances, yours is in a situation were your taking a slow very detailed route. I'm from the side of thing's in my world it's based on production logging, I'm working with both saw's and machinery ie skidder's lot's of on and off the machine with a saw. long bar's get in the way for what I'm doing it's very hard dealing with a clumsy saw both for carrying it around on the machine but also when I have to jump down off said machine into a thicket of brush. I can't be fighting with my saw I need a fast nimble short bar setup to get it dun and on to the next one. This is what this whole point of mine has been all along that one and only one type of setup is not the sliced bread answer to every cutting situation, for someone to say short bar's shouldn't be used and really you should be using only long bar's is flawed. There is just to many variables with each needing it's own type of custom setup, I have saw's with 16'' 18'' and a couple with 20'' would I go to a 28'' or 32'' no not unless I was cutting big coastal timber like BBR does then yes it's a necessity otherwise your just burning up expensive chain's not to mention the extra time it take's to sharpen a 32'''' well double the amount, more bar oil and a lot more expensive bar's. Look if you want to step outside set safety standards that's your choice if your working on your own property and not for hire we all have that choice, otherwise if your working for someone else then you have to play by WCB rules so I don't think cutting offhanded on snowshoes would make them to happy. I understand you need the extra reach because of what your doing. It's got nothing to do with the saw makers trying to make life difficult for us it's what every safety institute has mandated them to do by civil liability laws; I don't not like it either but that's just how it is.
Thank you for sharing specifics about proper technique! Will save my lower back. Also depends on the end user with extra expense for a longer and especially lighter bar; or occasional use.
Thanks for the great vid. Loved watching the relaxed upright, saw resting on the hip while limbing. The bucking when the log was up a bit looked very comfortable but when it was on the ground more attention and control was needed and with the need to bend a bit the leverage of gravity through the muscles just added more effort. As mentioned the 32" might suit better. I hope you enjoy doing such stuff for a long time. May the best techniques and equipment for you, be yours. My next saw saw will likely be a MS 400 with a short bar - elbow and shoulder have problems but knees still OK, so getting weight off arms while bucking might be better for me. At my usual log width the 400 with a short bar will perform like a 472 with a long. Happy cutting sincerely d
I’ve got the same 28” light bar on my 562 and absolutely love it. Also 6’3-4” with boots and feel I could run a 32” but I’m good with this for now I’ve been enjoying the skip chain myself more lately than full comp.
I went to a long bar this winter just for working on snowshoes, and ended up fully converting. I mostly try to brace the bottom of the wrap on my left hip, saw across the body, but I will try your suggestions. Funny, since I put on the 28" bar I have yet to strike the chain on anything, in the same time frame I likely would have dinged the chain a couple times using a 20" bar.
Amen brother. I live in western Pa. Guys use a bar juat long enough to buck the log at hand. Dog in and rock the saw back and forth to cut. My 70cc and up saws all wear 28" bars. Others, a 20", i dont use them for firewood. Its not an easy thing to explain why a long bar is safer and easier on the body. You have demonstrated this concept very well. How's the 394 build going? I am truly enamored by the mighty 394. Have never owned one, but i would truly love to. Stay healthy and stay strong 💪.
I remember when I bought the 390, non x-tourqe. Was no possible way I could afford the 394xp. Was 400 bucks more than the 390. Ever since then, I still want one.
hi here in nova scotia 16 inch bar is common . im seeing your point on long bar use . im 5 foot 4 ,, been useing 24 inch on 365 specal i like the theroy , my 543xp just aquired 18 inch , thanks tin man and buckin too
Yeah man, I think you've got that right. On a light saw you want to keep it short enough to maintain the weight advantage. On a heavy saw you use the long bar to overcome the weight dissadvantage. JMO. I've been running a 365 and a 345 for 12 years now, its a great pair.
With the saw on my hip like that while limbing I've accidentally pushed on the stop switch momentarily, causing a backfire which damaged the carburetor internally.
Hey Tinman and gang… I am ready to buy a big saw 70+cc Do you prefer the husky 372 or the 572? Just a Homestead owner in Montana ready to rip! Damn that 572 sounds rippy!!! Stihl 461, 462, 044? Please guide me a little bit with your own personal preferences. Thanks gang
I can see the obvious benefit to the knees and back. It looks like you are using the tip a lot more than the "old school" method - but if so perhaps wear on the bar is better than wear on the body.
Tinman I'm rebuilding a husky 359 I can't get the clutch off it. I've broke one clutch removal tool and I'm well on the way to breaking the second tool. Any recommendations?
Just switching from 16 to 18 inch makes it much easier. Less bending over. Getting in through thick brush and small spaces is easier with an 18-20 inch bar I find. Nex bar I get will be 20 inch. If I were just dropping very large trees, I would get something longer than 20 inch. Depends on how tall you are too. Longer bars have more teeth so stay sharp a bit longer, if you do not hit the ground with a long bar that is lol
To an outside observer, this technique would seem "lazy", but just it's very efficient. Same with swinging an axe for chopping or splitting wood, you want to be as relaxed and "lazy" as possible so you can get home and not feel like you've had a boxing match.
HI TINMAN 😊😊 what IVE heard the light bars are lighter in weight they don't last and they are twice as much as the regular chainsaw bars and U 😊😊 have 2 have the chainsaw and the CCS 2 pull a longer chain 🔗 😊 takes alot longer 2 sharpen and U still have the chain out of dirt and the ground it will not stay sharp cutting dirt and its even worse when U hit rocks 😮😮 then it will take U at least 4 sharpens 2 get the chain back 2 where it was and alot of the newer chainsaw bars don't have a sprocket hole 4 grease the bar oil doesn't stay on the sprocket like the grease does so U can't use a chainsaw bar grease gun on them no more and U should still grease the clutch on the chainsaw U can't run them dry 😊😊 OMG 4 29 2O24
Also, the closer the load/weight of the saw is to your body, the stronger you are! When you hold a saw with a shorter bar only 6" away from your body, your strength is durastically decreased.
If you are falling you only want a bar that will just do the job. If you are bucking same goes. If you are falling then limbing small /medium wood ON THE GROUND then I use a 30 and stand up
How about longer chains have more teeth, so.... 24 inch should go roughly 50% longer between sharpening. My pew pew saw is Stihl 182 with a pico short bar and everything else has 24 or 25 on it. Husq 50 cc ported , 272xp, ms362c. Good video.
To me it's not so much the weight of the soul but it's the fact that I don't have to bend over that's what kills me, with a longer bar I can stand up and buck has buckin says
HI TINMAN😊😊 most people don't know it there a block on a chainsaw from the nose 2 the back bar handle U keep that between U and the chainsaw all of the time ⌚ 😊 OMG 4 29 2O24
12:00 : guy you juste don't see the advantage of using light saw and bars, because you know how to you use this heavy tools, ( experiment guy, that all) and, more : 1 or 2 kilogramme less or more is not a prob for you, because you tall and strong guy. at the end of the day, i thinks most peoples are neart to exhaust, and weight of the tool play on this exhaust.
@@tinmanssaws Yes sir we sure. That's the biggest reason I came to the bunyan show. And your welcome more importantly thank you for taking the time and putting in the work to make the videos. I enjoy everyone
No such thing as to much but plenty of not enoughs. Common sense goes a long way in life so take everything in with a grain of salt and then figure it out for yourself.
Plus a long bar and lower chain speed keeps the wood chips further away from your eyebrow-protected eyes. I gotta stop plucking my brows, bro! Then no more dangerously foggy 'safety' glasses for me!
long bars are for big wood, that all. Big wood needs long bars, long bars need big cylinder. Today more & more peoples uses small CC for firewood because it's enough today ( with narrow chain .325) . Here in south europa, almost everywhere you have the sweet spot with 40-50cc and 16-20" bars. It's lighter than big saw and bars, and speed cut timing slower are not a big deal because a journey in the wood is hard and long. I understand "old" school guy still prefere use 70-75cc with 25" bars, because a 70cc 25 or 30 YO, are juste equal power than modern top of the line 50cc saws. i am just an amateur, but when i see forest-man pro, each side of atlantique, i see mostly 20" bars, because it's enough for almost all woods, light and easy to handle on hard slope, etc.
Just an observation: Easterners, mid west prairy boys, and europeans run short bars mostly because they always have, and havent tried anything else. West coast cutting has been the further evolution of equipment and techniques. It might not be entirely neccessary in other regions, but to assume there is no value in it and cling to tradition is silly.
@@bushleague3472 wake up please : the american century is ending. others than... somes golems, it's over here, to follow anything across atlantic. That'gone. See the mass-market selling up-end saws for firewood in worldwide : 261cm / 550xp mkII/ echo 4310sx. with 16-20" bars. Somes region across world, need more CC and more lenght bars, but not many region.
@@annaaron3510 He's wearing chainsaw pants, as stated partway through the video. I personally dont concider this guy an expert, but I clicked on it to watch a video, not just go off on his alleged lack of PPE.
When im dropping and bucking a tree i don't limb it up all the way to the top first. I limb as I buck that way the branches actually hold the tree up off the ground. Basically processing the tree three or four feet at a time. Easier on the back and less chance of touching the ground. To each their own though, I always say. Love that ram horn. TC Mahalo Tinman 🤙🤙🤙
I cut the branches that are not supporting the crown, which is most of them.
This saw sounds so good with that muffler ! 😮
I’ve been bucking up a grapple load for my grandparents lately and a husky 390 XPW with a 32in bar square ground has been heaven on earth while cutting
Strength training and keeping back as up right as possible is key to success and not back injuries 😊
Good luck 👍
Beautiful saw. Nice technique, back problems are no fun so it looks like it helps. Glad you took that tree down.. 😊
I agree, I used 18 and 20 inch bars for 40 plus years and 3 years ago went to 28 and my hole out look changed. Oh, one safety tip I learned through the years is if you cut right to left the wood will fall away from you. when its on the ground it don't matter as much but when the poles are stacked and it rolls off it rolls right into you cutting left to right. I hope I explained that right. nice job Tinman
Tinman great tutorial video. 5’9” and the 28” bar fits me and my 462 perfectly. Paired with DGP bar oil and she’s a beast.
Gotta love that dgp oil
You got it right. I am 6'4" and my goto is my 661 with a 36"bar at 60 years young, I cant work bent over for any time. So standing up straight while bucking makes a big difference and with the bigger saw, I get more wood cut up in a shorter time. Small saws can take a serious chunk out of ones drinking time
Love how the 572XP sounds with that pipe! Great explanation and voiceover!
When you did that faster shot from the butt of the log, it really showed what you were talking about. Awesome hearing your boy 😉
It was awesome hearing your boy.😉 when you had the camera placed at the bottom of the log and you sped up the video it really did emphasize and show what you were talking about!
Hey Tinman finnished my 562 ported piped 28 full house. She cuts eh! Picked up 10 loads of logs in the last week. Whole lot of bucking to do❤ love your vids
There are pro's and con's to everything long bar's are not the be all answer to every cutting job, if your in a fairly clean area like where you were cutting in then it's fine. Try and limb out that same hairy tree in heavy underbrush with a long bar you would be played out in no time fighting your way through trying to move a long bar around, then you notice the weight real fast. Single stem bucking is also fine with a long bar but get a group of tree's pushed up together or on the side of a pulpwood pile with multiple tree's touching together, then a long bar has you "tipping'' your saw up in the air to get your bar nose down in the pile to cut; that has you lifting your saw up constantly with your elbow's up at shoulder height. I have bad shoulder's already and that make's it just plain painful and again it play's you out doing saw weight lifting lol! long bar's and yes short bar's all have their place it's just figuring out what work's best for the job your doing, take care Tinman.
I know what you are talking about, situations where you are bucking with the tip of the bar up around shoulder hight. I pretty much only cut in real thick stuff and I dont have trouble with a 28", for the tip up scenario I brace the rear grip against my body and run the saw left handed. The rear grip acts as a fulcrum and I'm using my right hand to lift on the front grip. For me this is pretty effecient.
@@bushleague3472 I'm well aware of "hipping" a saw to carry excess weight or try to carry less at arm's length but you can't always work with a saw like this, there is plenty of time's even with long bar's your reaching out and up in heavy brush even when just trying to move around with that saw when not cutting your fighting with your saw dragging it around in brush; that's what play's you out in a hurry. What your suggesting is dangerous work practice's you should never be running saw's off handed ie changing your hand set, they "saw's" are not designed to be run like that if they where manufacture's would tell you otherwise and they are very clear on this for safety reason's. Again ie in the wrong body position to deal with kick back, every manufacture along with safety courses offered by training school's for chainsaw certification needed to get a job by some company's tell you this. Another point I never made in my first post is long bar's are notorious for throwing chain's in brush they just are, anyone who's spent any amount of time cutting knows this. If your not throwing chain's then you have your chain tight like a fiddle string and that's bad news for your saw crank and clutch bearing's not to mention the excess heat build up your creating in that saw; but hey to each their own.
@@StuInTheSticks I pretty much only work in the thick stuff, and I basically went to a long bar because I work on snowshoes allot. On snowshoes, you are always working off balance with a short bar, and even still that bar ends up scary close to the edges of your snowshoes. Eventually I standardized and found ways to make a 28" work for me all around.
Like you said, to each his own and on snowshoes, in the thick stuff, your body positioning will not always be ideal. I feel that carefully running the saw left-handed is occasionally the safest option. Running a saw in the bush results in a very dynamic working situation, relying solely on blanket rules made from the confines of an engineer's office to keep you safe is IMO unwise.
@@bushleague3472 We all work in different environments with different tree species and each have our own unique circumstances, yours is in a situation were your taking a slow very detailed route. I'm from the side of thing's in my world it's based on production logging, I'm working with both saw's and machinery ie skidder's lot's of on and off the machine with a saw. long bar's get in the way for what I'm doing it's very hard dealing with a clumsy saw both for carrying it around on the machine but also when I have to jump down off said machine into a thicket of brush. I can't be fighting with my saw I need a fast nimble short bar setup to get it dun and on to the next one. This is what this whole point of mine has been all along that one and only one type of setup is not the sliced bread answer to every cutting situation, for someone to say short bar's shouldn't be used and really you should be using only long bar's is flawed. There is just to many variables with each needing it's own type of custom setup, I have saw's with 16'' 18'' and a couple with 20'' would I go to a 28'' or 32'' no not unless I was cutting big coastal timber like BBR does then yes it's a necessity otherwise your just burning up expensive chain's not to mention the extra time it take's to sharpen a 32'''' well double the amount, more bar oil and a lot more expensive bar's. Look if you want to step outside set safety standards that's your choice if your working on your own property and not for hire we all have that choice, otherwise if your working for someone else then you have to play by WCB rules so I don't think cutting offhanded on snowshoes would make them to happy. I understand you need the extra reach because of what your doing. It's got nothing to do with the saw makers trying to make life difficult for us it's what every safety institute has mandated them to do by civil liability laws; I don't not like it either but that's just how it is.
AMEN
Thank you for sharing specifics about proper technique! Will save my lower back. Also depends on the end user with extra expense for a longer and especially lighter bar; or occasional use.
Thanks for the great vid.
Loved watching the relaxed upright, saw resting on the hip while limbing.
The bucking when the log was up a bit looked very comfortable but when it was on the ground more attention and control was needed and with the need to bend a bit the leverage of gravity through the muscles just added more effort. As mentioned the 32" might suit better.
I hope you enjoy doing such stuff for a long time. May the best techniques and equipment for you, be yours.
My next saw saw will likely be a MS 400 with a short bar - elbow and shoulder have problems but knees still OK, so getting weight off arms while bucking might be better for me. At my usual log width the 400 with a short bar will perform like a 472 with a long.
Happy cutting
sincerely
d
That exhaust is awesome
I’ve got the same 28” light bar on my 562 and absolutely love it. Also 6’3-4” with boots and feel I could run a 32” but I’m good with this for now
I’ve been enjoying the skip chain myself more lately than full comp.
I went to a long bar this winter just for working on snowshoes, and ended up fully converting. I mostly try to brace the bottom of the wrap on my left hip, saw across the body, but I will try your suggestions. Funny, since I put on the 28" bar I have yet to strike the chain on anything, in the same time frame I likely would have dinged the chain a couple times using a 20" bar.
Love the new intro!! 😂😂😂
Good work Tinman😊
That there looks a lil hard on the back there big fella . Lol😊
Lol
Short bars have their place..
Dirty wood, when you know you'll be sharpening often
Amen brother. I live in western Pa. Guys use a bar juat long enough to buck the log at hand. Dog in and rock the saw back and forth to cut.
My 70cc and up saws all wear 28" bars. Others, a 20", i dont use them for firewood. Its not an easy thing to explain why a long bar is safer and easier on the body. You have demonstrated this concept very well. How's the 394 build going? I am truly enamored by the mighty 394. Have never owned one, but i would truly love to. Stay healthy and stay strong 💪.
394 is getting closer. Weds video should be on the next steps on porting that.
I remember when I bought the 390, non x-tourqe. Was no possible way I could
afford the 394xp. Was 400 bucks more than the 390. Ever since then, I still want one.
hi here in nova scotia 16 inch bar is common . im seeing your point on long bar use . im 5 foot 4 ,, been useing 24 inch on 365 specal i like the theroy , my 543xp just aquired 18 inch , thanks tin man and buckin too
Yeah man, I think you've got that right. On a light saw you want to keep it short enough to maintain the weight advantage. On a heavy saw you use the long bar to overcome the weight dissadvantage. JMO. I've been running a 365 and a 345 for 12 years now, its a great pair.
@@bushleague3472great explanation, sums it up perfectly
With the saw on my hip like that while limbing I've accidentally pushed on the stop switch momentarily, causing a backfire which damaged the carburetor internally.
Really is a whole different world once you get used to it!
Hello AP!
@@oakiewoodsman 👋🏻 OW!
@@aaronpowell4885 I actually have a "long Bar wood pile video coming up. That is why I clicked on this bad boy!" Be well friend!
@@aaronpowell4885that pipe sounds awesome man
The longer the better nice video tinman.
Hey Tinman and gang… I am ready to buy a big saw 70+cc
Do you prefer the husky 372 or the 572?
Just a Homestead owner in Montana ready to rip!
Damn that 572 sounds rippy!!!
Stihl 461, 462, 044?
Please guide me a little bit with your own personal preferences.
Thanks gang
Those are all good Saws.
My pick in no order is the 372,572 and 461.
@@tinmanssaws Thanks Tiny! Do you like the 461 more than the 462? Thoughts on the 462?
@@Chitching461 regarded as legendary
I can see the obvious benefit to the knees and back. It looks like you are using the tip a lot more than the "old school" method - but if so perhaps wear on the bar is better than wear on the body.
Just like Buckin' has always said "stand up and buck". :)
I’ve been using a 20 inch bar for. Long time
Time to change man😊
Tinman I'm rebuilding a husky 359 I can't get the clutch off it. I've broke one clutch removal tool and I'm well on the way to breaking the second tool. Any recommendations?
That's a beautiful pipe on that saw
My short bar cuts telephone poles crooked. Do you think a longer bar would cut straight? I use the poles for fence building.
Chain filing could be the problem. I used to have this problem with a tiny bar, changing the chain and starting over solved it for me.
Cutting on a mountain side would make this technique tricky. Wish we cut wood in the front lawn. 😅
I've used a 72" bar and now I run a 28" bar on a Husky 395
Time difference in filing is the difference.
Just switching from 16 to 18 inch makes it much easier. Less bending over. Getting in through thick brush and small spaces is easier with an 18-20 inch bar I find. Nex bar I get will be 20 inch. If I were just dropping very large trees, I would get something longer than 20 inch. Depends on how tall you are too.
Longer bars have more teeth so stay sharp a bit longer, if you do not hit the ground with a long bar that is lol
To an outside observer, this technique would seem "lazy", but just it's very efficient. Same with swinging an axe for chopping or splitting wood, you want to be as relaxed and "lazy" as possible so you can get home and not feel like you've had a boxing match.
Hi CHARLIE!!!! From Wisconsin
HI TINMAN 😊😊 what IVE heard the light bars are lighter in weight they don't last and they are twice as much as the regular chainsaw bars and U 😊😊 have 2 have the chainsaw and the CCS 2 pull a longer chain 🔗 😊 takes alot longer 2 sharpen and U still have the chain out of dirt and the ground it will not stay sharp cutting dirt and its even worse when U hit rocks 😮😮 then it will take U at least 4 sharpens 2 get the chain back 2 where it was and alot of the newer chainsaw bars don't have a sprocket hole 4 grease the bar oil doesn't stay on the sprocket like the grease does so U can't use a chainsaw bar grease gun on them no more and U should still grease the clutch on the chainsaw U can't run them dry 😊😊 OMG 4 29 2O24
Those stihl es light bars are pretty good, mine is like 6 or 7 years old and still going strong.
Also, the closer the load/weight of the saw is to your body, the stronger you are! When you hold a saw with a shorter bar only 6" away from your body, your strength is durastically decreased.
id love to run a long bar but my 261 stock barely turns a 20 lol i got a skip tooth for her lol
I can do that same technique with a 20 inch bar. But then I'm only 5.668 ft tall😅. Thanks Tinman!
You are so right and when you get in your sixties like me and others, another great video,thanks.
Just ordered a 28" bar for my MS400; the dealer here in Maine, says they never sell 'long' bars.
He commented: "what the heck ya gonna do with it?" 😄
If you are falling you only want a bar that will just do the job. If you are bucking same goes. If you are falling then limbing small /medium wood ON THE GROUND then I use a 30 and stand up
What do you mean by "monster spruce for us?"
Wow look at all those branches 😂that’s a lot of saw movement to remove those branches
These trees are very labour intensive for sure.
Love this Channel Tinman!! From Pennsylvania
Hey Tinman, what chainsaw pants do you usually wear?
Those are Canswe pants
Tennis elbow and shoulder pain ... That's me too Tinman . Wait til you're in your 60's, that stuff don't let up . But I still like cuttin'. :)
And glasses and gloves… only mentioning because you said you were “fully protected” and you definitely were not.
How about longer chains have more teeth, so.... 24 inch should go roughly 50% longer between sharpening. My pew pew saw is Stihl 182 with a pico short bar and everything else has 24 or 25 on it. Husq 50 cc ported , 272xp, ms362c. Good video.
I can’t run anything less than a 24” bar anymore I love not reaching and bending as much as running 18 or 20”
Hi Charlie❤
So Tinman why a 572 vs 372 powersaw?
To me it's not so much the weight of the soul but it's the fact that I don't have to bend over that's what kills me, with a longer bar I can stand up and buck has buckin says
Yep standing straight up has been a game changer for me..
@jakegorman @tinmanssaws
Same here. I'm in Japan and literally no one uses a long bar here.
👍
HI TINMAN😊😊 most people don't know it there a block on a chainsaw from the nose 2 the back bar handle U keep that between U and the chainsaw all of the time ⌚ 😊 OMG 4 29 2O24
👍👍.
tennis elbow ! I had tennis ball once very painful 😂😂😂
A 32 would be better for you, you could stand up strater
i think it's a fungus with the spruce at liest our blue spruce is in pa . usa
Bro, tree climbers too!
We have to pull that sht up! Lighter powerheads longer bars all day!
Buy a better tunable older saw. Have a ball!
12:00 : guy you juste don't see the advantage of using light saw and bars, because you know how to you use this heavy tools, ( experiment guy, that all) and, more : 1 or 2 kilogramme less or more is not a prob for you, because you tall and strong guy. at the end of the day, i thinks most peoples are neart to exhaust, and weight of the tool play on this exhaust.
Hey good job expressing the benefits of running a Long bar Tin Man
Thanks I tried to put my thoughts in this video.
"That ain't workin' . . . that's the way you do it . . ."
"Let me tell you...them guys ain't dumb..."
"that's the way you do it . . .ya do yer limbin' with a long bar saw . . ."
Hi charlie!! lol ..... Later!!
Short Bar has its purpose, nothing wrong with that.
How's the Tinman and family
Hey Kurt, I still remember speaking to you at bunyan....thanks for always stopping in..
@@tinmanssaws Yes sir we sure. That's the biggest reason I came to the bunyan show. And your welcome more importantly thank you for taking the time and putting in the work to make the videos. I enjoy everyone
Always use a 38 inch bar
Long bars limbing isn’t safer.
Longer bars don't dull as fast more cutting teeth
Best word in the world to hear from your baby. Daddy.
Try an 84” bar😅
No such thing as to much but plenty of not enoughs. Common sense goes a long way in life so take everything in with a grain of salt and then figure it out for yourself.
Plus a long bar and lower chain speed keeps the wood chips further away from your eyebrow-protected eyes. I gotta stop plucking my brows, bro! Then no more dangerously foggy 'safety' glasses for me!
That’s 100% buckin Billy technique
Weight close to body -- just like I learned in PT for my shoulders :). If I had started using common sense at your age, I might not have needed PT :).
Slower than molasses going uphill in january. Plus you dont cut all day every day.
long bars are for big wood, that all. Big wood needs long bars, long bars need big cylinder. Today more & more peoples uses small CC for firewood because it's enough today ( with narrow chain .325) . Here in south europa, almost everywhere you have the sweet spot with 40-50cc and 16-20" bars. It's lighter than big saw and bars, and speed cut timing slower are not a big deal because a journey in the wood is hard and long. I understand "old" school guy still prefere use 70-75cc with 25" bars, because a 70cc 25 or 30 YO, are juste equal power than modern top of the line 50cc saws. i am just an amateur, but when i see forest-man pro, each side of atlantique, i see mostly 20" bars, because it's enough for almost all woods, light and easy to handle on hard slope, etc.
Just an observation: Easterners, mid west prairy boys, and europeans run short bars mostly because they always have, and havent tried anything else. West coast cutting has been the further evolution of equipment and techniques. It might not be entirely neccessary in other regions, but to assume there is no value in it and cling to tradition is silly.
@@bushleague3472 wake up please : the american century is ending. others than... somes golems, it's over here, to follow anything across atlantic. That'gone. See the mass-market selling up-end saws for firewood in worldwide : 261cm / 550xp mkII/ echo 4310sx. with 16-20" bars. Somes region across world, need more CC and more lenght bars, but not many region.
Whiskey Tango fOXTROT why "experts" have to show and tell without protection ? Chaps ? FemoraL ARTERY ? ER visit ?
Watch the whole video, then sheepishly edit your post.
@@bushleague3472 No sheep. Experts don't cut without chaps. Look at your whole.
@@annaaron3510 He's wearing chainsaw pants, as stated partway through the video. I personally dont concider this guy an expert, but I clicked on it to watch a video, not just go off on his alleged lack of PPE.