The H-alpha signature is the strongest source of deep sky object photons from many (most?) nebula. Unfortunately, it's in the near-IR region and is often cut off or partially cut-off by the manufacture filters in DSLR cameras. This is the biggest motivation to remove the filter: gathering more H-alpha. I do not think the redshift from expansion of space plays as large a roll for the amateur astrophotographers. Keep up the videos!!
Thanks for the feedback Benjamin. You are right. I got this mixed up because I just finished a video on James Webb...Red shift is only a problem over vast distances, so that would only apply to (early) galaxies in our universe. And yes, H-alpha is key to gathering all information on emission nebula in particular. Thanks for watching :-)
After doing some research I decided on the ZWO ASI183MCPro. This seemed like a good match for my WO Z61 with it's short focal length. Your videos are a big help.
Great video! In fact, all of your videos are great. Keep them coming :) I'm looking get a dedicated astro camera, but am hesitating between colour and mono. I live in a fairly light polluted area (bortle 7), and it's quite a drive to find properly dark skies. Will this be more of a challenge if I get a colour camera?
Hi Andrew,yes, it's a challenge to combat light pollution. There are some good filters that can help. I've made this video on filters,perhaps useful:th-cam.com/video/YNXPQp-IMXY/w-d-xo.html
@@AstroForumSpace Thanks for the tip. I've made my decision. A decent cooled ZWO colour camera (probably the ASI2600MC pro - seems a good fit with my telescope), and I might invest in a dual-band filter. I already have a CLS one. The weather in this part of Norway is normally crap, it can rain for weeks on end. So periods of clear skies need to be used efficiently. A colour cam seems a sensible decision.
really nice video, i´m in the process of getting into astro photography.. i own a Canon 60D , and i´m looking for starting with that for more wide photos and then i´m looking for some telescope (i like the skywatcher 150/750 newtonian with the EQ3 mount.) i use the 60D for daytime photography, do you recomend getting a cheap used DSLR and remove the IR-filter for astro use? i´ve seen a lot of Canon T5, T3i, T6, and other entry level cameras for low prices.
Hi Javier, thank you! You can definitely start astrophotography with a (used) DSLR camera. If you'll remove the IR-cut filter your camera will be more sensitive to the red part of the light spectrum, but keep in mind that your daytime pictures will look a bit odd (reddish). The EQ3 mount is mostly for visual use I think, but good to get some experience. Clears skies!
I have a WO Redcat 51, a Skywatcher Pro and Optolong L pro filter. Still trying to capture to NA nebula in Cygnus from light polluted Chicago. Just purchased the CEM25P and guide scope and camera to move things along. Will stick with the modded T4i for now until my skills improve. Your videos are extremely helpful. Can’t thank you enough. Still have a lot to learn. Mike
@@michaeljarvis4612 That's a nice setup Mike, light pollution can be challenging. Have you considered a hydrogen alpha clip in filter like this one: bit.ly/2MV0dDE ? It really helped me to get more details of the NA (and other) nebula. Clear skies.
Im interested in how mobile phone cameras perform to get started. I have a manual 200mm dobson and the planets already look pretty good with single shots, I will get a phone mount to try some more soon
Planets and bright objects are fine with a smartphone. You'll want a DSLR or dedicated cooled camera for nebulae which enables you to take multiminute exposures
Hallo Guido, Leuke video's! Waar heb jij je DSLR laten modificeren? Ik ben een jaartje bezig met deep sky met een Nikon D5200 en wil hem laten modificeren. Groeten.
Top video! Ik heb een vraag ik woon op moment in amerika en heb hier op Facebook marktplaats een canon 60d gevonden waar de ir filter verwijderd is. Ze willen er 375$ voor. Het leek mij een redelijke prijs want heb altijd al een "astro" dslr gewild. Of kan ik beter wachten en sparen voor wat anders? Ik hoorde je praten over koeling en in Florida is het nog wel eens benauwd. Gr Jasper
Ik ben een beginner, heb pas net een sky watcher (tracker) dus kan langere sluitertijd gebruiken, Florida heeft een hoop lichtvervuiling maar gaan naar utah volgend jaar en daar zijn de omstandigheden een stuk beter maar leek me handig om al weg wijs te zijn voordat ik me in ideale omstandigheden bevindt. Welke lens of telescoop raad je een beginner aan? Ik ben al eens in big bend national park geweest geweldige sterren maar wil meer op nebula richten orion was een makkelijk doelwit maar wil graag meer. Sorry voor het stalken 😅😃
Hoi Jasper, wat leuk! Je moet even nadenken over wat je jezelf als doel wil stellen. Met zo'n tracker kun je prima met een reguliere DSLR mooie langere exposures maken - widefield - van de melkweg en relatief grote objecten zoals andromeda en orion. Als eerste telescoop raad ik altijd een apochromatische refractor aan (maar meningen verschillen hoor). De voornaamste reden is dat deze lenstelescopen een redelijk breed beeld geven zodat eventuele issues met tracking inswe opvallen in je fotos en ze zijn redelijk licht in gewicht en qua onderhoud is er eigenlijk niets nodig. Punt is dat je met een telescoop ook meestal een zwaardere equatoriale montering (EQ mount) nodig hebt. Ik zelf ben gestart met de Celestron AVX en een 80mm APO. In America is OPT wel een betrouwbare zaak, alleen die zitten volgens mij in california. Ik weet niet wat je budget is? Ik vind zelf zoiets als een explore scientific 80mm APO wel mooi: bit.ly/3fAMwHf, maar als je budget wat lager is kun je ook voor een doublet of reflector gaan.
I just picked up an 8SE and I'm totally new to this. I'm researching cameras and it seems these ZWO cameras are the go to but I'm not sure why the NexImage 10 Color isn't the better option. I'm looking for something that keeps it simple and is a bit of an all around option. The plan is to mirror the image to a TV so any advice with that would be a big help as well! Cheers :-)
Great video!! Used a Canon T3i for a long time. Served me well while learning. Have horrible light pollution so was happy with what I could do with location. Recently bought the ASI 1600mm cool and NB filters. Whole new learning experience. Yet to use it, but excited again about the hobby. Just need time and good weather.
Thanks! You have made the exact same decisions as I did. I started out with a T3i - and a cheap ZWO 120MC for some planetary, before moving to the ZWO1600MM pro. You will not be sorry, I'm using the 1600 for one year now and especially with narrowband it produces some amazing pics. Let me know what your experiences are, did you already do the " first light" session? :-)
@@AstroForumSpace - unfortunately no. Still in boxes. Was going to take out camera and start working on a dark library at least. Just don't know which temp to shoot. Need to setup a clean room to do the filters (lazy). Then need to figure out my distance on my Focal reducer/Flattner. Weather has been poor lately. Rains all the time and humidity in Florida is horrible right now. I also need to work on a new processing workflow. Basically starting over from scratch. Excited to start over and learn again. T3i was getting boring since I maxed out my results due to the LP and hit most targets that were available with my setup. I was also looking at the 183 camera as well, but felt my mount is not good enough to deal with the extremely tiny pixels.
@@ftlaud911 the 1600 is an excellent choice imo. You'll be amazed when imaging wide field nebula in narrowband. If I remember correctly, the back focus should be 55mm. Weather has been terrible here too. I usually take 5 minute pictures and cool at -25C. Let me know if you have any questions, happy to help.
I'm enthusiast photographer with a modern full frame camera and 2 telephoto lenses with 70-200mm f/2.8 and 100-400mm f/4.5-5.6. Would you recommend to start without a telescope and buy only a skywatcher star adventurer?
Yea sure, that's a good way to start. If you like the star adventurer you can always decide upgrade to a full mount and telescope in the future. Thanks for watching!
red shift is not how far something is from us, the light wavelengths only change length (red shift) if an object is moving either towards or away from us therefore stretching or compressing the wavelengths by a tiny amount. The faster this movement is, the more pronounced red or blue shift.
Well yes and no. The universe is expanding and so the further away things are the more the are red shifted, known as Hubble's Law. However the example he used about why we need to see in infra red isn't really right. The DSO's we photograph are all within our galaxy so aren't moving away fast enough, and may not even be moving away from us. The brightest galaxies are all within our local group, so they may not be even moving away from us, so won't be red shifted either.
I've never flown with my telescope gear. I'm guessing that the mount could be checked in as odd sized luggage. I would try to take the telescope with me as hand luggage, depending on the size?
5 ปีที่แล้ว +1
Nice and instructive video thanks a lot. Wanna ask something: If I correctly understood, IR filter in DSLR cameras need to be removed for modification, right?. What if I do not modify but use IR cut filter instead of removing this piece? Does it create same result?
Hi Volkan, you will be able to do astrophotography, but some deepsky objects - especially ionized Nebula - will remain dim. But bright objects such as globular clusters and planetary Nebula are perfectly doable with An unmodified DSLR.
Hi Volkan, some tips on DSO's: start with the pleiades and/or orion nebula, or globular clusters. They are very bright, you will be able to capture them using a regular, unmodified DSLR
5 ปีที่แล้ว +1
@@AstroForumSpace Thank you for advice. I already took photos of Whirlpool, Andromeda galaksies, Orion, Skull, Sculpture and Saturn nebulas, with an unmodified Canon 800D+Prolong L-Pro filter. If I were in a dark place (I'm a balcony observer in the middle of Ankara, our capital) results should be much much more better. My question was, is there any way to use a DSLR adding a filter, without modifiying it. Seems like no way! :-)
No, unortunately not. I'm also in the city (Utrecht) on my balcony :-). Clear skies!
5 ปีที่แล้ว +1
@@AstroForumSpace many thanks for your intensive care. Can you produce a video, "how to use RGB filters". I couldn't find any in youtube. Are they used one by one or combined, shoul I use a filterwheel etc. This video would be great.
Hi Patrick, I would advise you to buy a DSLR camera like the Canon EOS T7 (4000D) amzn.to/2Pv2kzg. You have some nice bundles with SD card and kit lens (18-55mm) for about $400. You would need a T2 adapter ring to attach it to a telescope, these are around 15 dollars, for example this one:amzn.to/3fzXzz9. The DSLR has CMOS and can also be used during the day. Cheers.
@AstroForum I just have a Canon 600D and T2 adapter and an Sbc2000 Samsung modified by me taking off the IRcut filter but I need to make a new step and I was searching for a specific camera like some older model of ZWO or OHY. For example what do you say about a ZWO ASI 183 MC? Ps: I want to use it on my ETX105 Meade Mak Telescope with goto motorized
Hi Pat, this bit.ly/30CuDlL ZWO 183 MC is great for planetary imaging, but not so great for deepsky. You would need this bit.ly/31qkWrk cooled zwo 183 Pro (or QHY equivalent) to get significantly better results as compared to a DSLR. Moreover, if I'm correct your Meade has an alt-az mount. For deepsky imaging, you would need an EQ mount. See my getting started section on my website if your interested in deepsky imaging: astroforumspace.com/seven-essential-steps-to-start-astrophotography/
Thanks for the video! What I do not understand (as a 'normal' photographer) - why are these relatively "small" sensor cameras so much better than the sensors in modern "full frame" mirrorless cameras (let's say the EOS Ra) - the sensor in this camera is much bigger - is it really only the cooling? Thanks again :)
The Canon EOS RA can definitely be used for deepsky imaging. However, the cooling system on dedicated deepsky astrophotography cameras dramatically reduces image noise and this will result in an improved image quality as compared to a DSLR camera. Please understand that we often need multiple minutes of exposure time to capture a deepsky object. I'm personally a fan of larger sensor cameras with which you can take beautiful wide field images of the larger objects in the nightsky (e.g., nebula, M33). In some cases however, small sensor cameras can be used on smaller objects such as planets (they only are a couple of arcminutes in aparent magnitude) and the smaller galaxies. It depends on the target you want to want to image.
Smaller sensors allow allow better crop which essentially boosts your focal length. This can be advantageous for astrophotographers when they want to image smaller objects, but have a wide view scope. I don't think it's fair to say they are 'better' because they are smaller. There are also full frame dedicated cameras with cooling, though expect the cameras to be fairly pricey! Dedicated cameras, as @astroforum mentions, has the ability to cool the sensor, which in turn, yields better images due to less noise :)
One factor is resolution. Many full frame cameras would have a larger pixel size as well in the ~ 5.7-6um range. There are advantages to these in terms of higher dynamic range however this also means that you need greater focal length to ensure sufficient sampling. A larger focal length will also need to have a larger primary lens/mirror aperture to maintain the same F-stop which makes for a larger, heavier, and probably more expensive telescope as well (plus the heavier + more expensive mount needed to support the larger scope).
Planetary imaging is most often done by means of lucky imaging, i.e. recording video at high fps rate and stacking the best frames. With most DSLRs you can only record at 1080p at most, sometimes 4K. This means the image will be heavily downsampled: your whole sensor will be used but the image is recorded at only a fraction of the resolution. You ideally want a native 1:1 pixel ratio to record planets. Some DSLRs allow for recoding in a certain crop mode, i.e. using only a certain center portion of the sensor to 1) fill the fov and 2) preserve all possible data/detail. Dedicated astro cameras are much more suited for these tasks.
I'm planning on buying the new ZWO ASI533MC Pro as my first ccd camera. But im alittle confused on how I decide what binning and gain settings should be when I'm photographing. Maybe you can explain this? I'm using apt. Thanks!
Hi Calzune, I don't own a asi533 but checked the zwo website. It appears that a gain setting of about 150 results in low read noise. I would leave binning to 1x1 for your first images. For my asi1600 I use a gain setting of 139, enjoy the new camera!
@@AstroForumSpace thanks for answer! I may need alittle more detailed answer on what binning really is... I think it is a scaling thing? 1x1 is standard image, 2x2 is scaled down etc is that right? And gain.. That is ISO in dslr language? Is 139 standard and how do I know if I need more or lower gain on different dso? Is there a way too look in the histogram?
@@Calzune Hi Calzune, not exactly. Pixel binning is when you use multiple pixels to create one bigger pixel. E.g. 2x2 will create one pixel out of four individual pixels. On the one hand it may reduce some detail in dynamic range, but it increases the light captured by your 'superpixel' which may result in a higher quality image, especially on faint DSO's such as faint nebula's. Hope this helps!
@@Calzune as for gain you can indeed compare that to iso settings of your dslr. The standard gain setting is probably around 150 for this camera, but you can ask zwo directly. Ask them if this camera has a so called unity gain setting. Cheers
I am stunned that so many people are making talking videos with some music in the background. These people are not smart enough to realize that a portion of their conversation is lost due to that music they chose to incorporate in their videos. I always wondered where did they go to school. Their teachers must have played music in the classroom while trying to teach the class. How did this stupid process of playing music in a talking, teaching video start? It is counterproductive and never done where someone is paid to teach a class unless it is a music class.
LOL. I've been a teacher too Bob. The main difference is that I can close the door and students are required to listen. Yes, a quiet place helps. On TH-cam, however, people watch videos and have an attention span of let's say 5 seconds, before they click on another video. It's comparable to a slot machine, music and different shots help to prevent people from clicking on other videos. But your right, it hampers the learning process.
@@AstroForumSpace Merry Christmas and please continue with your videos. I enjoyed the information you provided. I am old, Vietnam veteran with hearing disabilities due to combat. I am just starting out obtaining knowledge about telescopes. I have bought 3 telescopes up to this point and I have learned from you how stupid my purchases have been. You are very good at what how you share your knowledge and no amount of any type of music can improve on your already total perfection. Happy New Year and accept my heartfelt apology if I have offended you in anyway. Bob Bailey
@@bobbailey7235 dear Bob, no worries. I'm always happy to receive feedback that allows me to learn and improve. Thank you so much for your kind words, hope you'll find a nice telescope. It's a wonderful hobby. Happy holidays and I hope you'll have a great 2021.
You can download my camera decision tree + links to cameras mentioned in the video here:
tinyurl.com/y2jhnh7g
The H-alpha signature is the strongest source of deep sky object photons from many (most?) nebula. Unfortunately, it's in the near-IR region and is often cut off or partially cut-off by the manufacture filters in DSLR cameras. This is the biggest motivation to remove the filter: gathering more H-alpha. I do not think the redshift from expansion of space plays as large a roll for the amateur astrophotographers. Keep up the videos!!
Thanks for the feedback Benjamin. You are right.
I got this mixed up because I just finished a video on James Webb...Red shift is only a problem over vast distances, so that would only apply to (early) galaxies in our universe. And yes, H-alpha is key to gathering all information on emission nebula in particular. Thanks for watching :-)
After doing some research I decided on the ZWO ASI183MCPro. This seemed like a good match for my WO Z61 with it's short focal length. Your videos are a big help.
Amazing video, thank you for this!!!
You're welcome, glad you liked it!
Thank you for another very useful and well presented video.
Glad it was helpful!
Great video! In fact, all of your videos are great. Keep them coming :)
I'm looking get a dedicated astro camera, but am hesitating between colour and mono. I live in a fairly light polluted area (bortle 7), and it's quite a drive to find properly dark skies. Will this be more of a challenge if I get a colour camera?
Hi Andrew,yes, it's a challenge to combat light pollution. There are some good filters that can help. I've made this video on filters,perhaps useful:th-cam.com/video/YNXPQp-IMXY/w-d-xo.html
@@AstroForumSpace Thanks for the tip. I've made my decision. A decent cooled ZWO colour camera (probably the ASI2600MC pro - seems a good fit with my telescope), and I might invest in a dual-band filter. I already have a CLS one. The weather in this part of Norway is normally crap, it can rain for weeks on end. So periods of clear skies need to be used efficiently. A colour cam seems a sensible decision.
really nice video, i´m in the process of getting into astro photography.. i own a Canon 60D , and i´m looking for starting with that for more wide photos and then i´m looking for some telescope (i like the skywatcher 150/750 newtonian with the EQ3 mount.) i use the 60D for daytime photography, do you recomend getting a cheap used DSLR and remove the IR-filter for astro use? i´ve seen a lot of Canon T5, T3i, T6, and other entry level cameras for low prices.
Hi Javier, thank you! You can definitely start astrophotography with a (used) DSLR camera. If you'll remove the IR-cut filter your camera will be more sensitive to the red part of the light spectrum, but keep in mind that your daytime pictures will look a bit odd (reddish). The EQ3 mount is mostly for visual use I think, but good to get some experience. Clears skies!
Bedankt!
You helped me to decide if i should return my 600€ DSLR to get a astro cam!
Glad to be of service
Very helpful. I just had my Canon T4i modded. Still a very early beginner. Thanks
You're welcome Michael. Are you going to use it with or without a telescope? Clear skies!
I have a WO Redcat 51, a Skywatcher Pro and Optolong L pro filter. Still trying to capture to NA nebula in Cygnus from light polluted Chicago. Just purchased the CEM25P and guide scope and camera to move things along. Will stick with the modded T4i for now until my skills improve. Your videos are extremely helpful. Can’t thank you enough. Still have a lot to learn. Mike
@@michaeljarvis4612 That's a nice setup Mike, light pollution can be challenging. Have you considered a hydrogen alpha clip in filter like this one: bit.ly/2MV0dDE ? It really helped me to get more details of the NA (and other) nebula. Clear skies.
Im interested in how mobile phone cameras perform to get started. I have a manual 200mm dobson and the planets already look pretty good with single shots, I will get a phone mount to try some more soon
Planets and bright objects are fine with a smartphone. You'll want a DSLR or dedicated cooled camera for nebulae which enables you to take multiminute exposures
So what’s the BEST camera for astrophotography? I need to know the BEST in all aspects. Also do you recommend a Canon T8i or Canon 90D?
th-cam.com/video/HhIAEnVMzHU/w-d-xo.html
Hallo Guido,
Leuke video's!
Waar heb jij je DSLR laten modificeren? Ik ben een jaartje bezig met deep sky met een Nikon D5200 en wil hem laten modificeren.
Groeten.
Dag Remco, ik kan dit bedrijfje aanbevelen: www.dutchdigitalworks.nl/
Vraag naar Dirk Herik, hele aardige man die je goed kan adviseren.
Top video! Ik heb een vraag ik woon op moment in amerika en heb hier op Facebook marktplaats een canon 60d gevonden waar de ir filter verwijderd is. Ze willen er 375$ voor. Het leek mij een redelijke prijs want heb altijd al een "astro" dslr gewild. Of kan ik beter wachten en sparen voor wat anders? Ik hoorde je praten over koeling en in Florida is het nog wel eens benauwd. Gr Jasper
Ik ben een beginner, heb pas net een sky watcher (tracker) dus kan langere sluitertijd gebruiken, Florida heeft een hoop lichtvervuiling maar gaan naar utah volgend jaar en daar zijn de omstandigheden een stuk beter maar leek me handig om al weg wijs te zijn voordat ik me in ideale omstandigheden bevindt.
Welke lens of telescoop raad je een beginner aan? Ik ben al eens in big bend national park geweest geweldige sterren maar wil meer op nebula richten orion was een makkelijk doelwit maar wil graag meer. Sorry voor het stalken 😅😃
Hoi Jasper, wat leuk! Je moet even nadenken over wat je jezelf als doel wil stellen. Met zo'n tracker kun je prima met een reguliere DSLR mooie langere exposures maken - widefield - van de melkweg en relatief grote objecten zoals andromeda en orion. Als eerste telescoop raad ik altijd een apochromatische refractor aan (maar meningen verschillen hoor). De voornaamste reden is dat deze lenstelescopen een redelijk breed beeld geven zodat eventuele issues met tracking inswe opvallen in je fotos en ze zijn redelijk licht in gewicht en qua onderhoud is er eigenlijk niets nodig. Punt is dat je met een telescoop ook meestal een zwaardere equatoriale montering (EQ mount) nodig hebt. Ik zelf ben gestart met de Celestron AVX en een 80mm APO. In America is OPT wel een betrouwbare zaak, alleen die zitten volgens mij in california. Ik weet niet wat je budget is? Ik vind zelf zoiets als een explore scientific 80mm APO wel mooi: bit.ly/3fAMwHf, maar als je budget wat lager is kun je ook voor een doublet of reflector gaan.
Thanks for the videos. Can I use a deep sky camera for planetary?
Yes, but the frames per second will not be as fast and you'll have a larger pixel size, so planets will be tiny dots.
I just picked up an 8SE and I'm totally new to this. I'm researching cameras and it seems these ZWO cameras are the go to but I'm not sure why the NexImage 10 Color isn't the better option.
I'm looking for something that keeps it simple and is a bit of an all around option. The plan is to mirror the image to a TV so any advice with that would be a big help as well!
Cheers :-)
Great video!! Used a Canon T3i for a long time. Served me well while learning. Have horrible light pollution so was happy with what I could do with location. Recently bought the ASI 1600mm cool and NB filters. Whole new learning experience. Yet to use it, but excited again about the hobby. Just need time and good weather.
Thanks! You have made the exact same decisions as I did. I started out with a T3i - and a cheap ZWO 120MC for some planetary, before moving to the ZWO1600MM pro. You will not be sorry, I'm using the 1600 for one year now and especially with narrowband it produces some amazing pics. Let me know what your experiences are, did you already do the " first light" session? :-)
@@AstroForumSpace - unfortunately no. Still in boxes. Was going to take out camera and start working on a dark library at least. Just don't know which temp to shoot. Need to setup a clean room to do the filters (lazy). Then need to figure out my distance on my Focal reducer/Flattner. Weather has been poor lately. Rains all the time and humidity in Florida is horrible right now. I also need to work on a new processing workflow. Basically starting over from scratch. Excited to start over and learn again. T3i was getting boring since I maxed out my results due to the LP and hit most targets that were available with my setup. I was also looking at the 183 camera as well, but felt my mount is not good enough to deal with the extremely tiny pixels.
@@ftlaud911 the 1600 is an excellent choice imo. You'll be amazed when imaging wide field nebula in narrowband. If I remember correctly, the back focus should be 55mm. Weather has been terrible here too. I usually take 5 minute pictures and cool at -25C. Let me know if you have any questions, happy to help.
Thank you very much
You're welcome!
I'm enthusiast photographer with a modern full frame camera and 2 telephoto lenses with 70-200mm f/2.8 and 100-400mm f/4.5-5.6. Would you recommend to start without a telescope and buy only a skywatcher star adventurer?
Yea sure, that's a good way to start. If you like the star adventurer you can always decide upgrade to a full mount and telescope in the future. Thanks for watching!
Very good ! Thank you for helping me make some decisions! Simon
red shift is not how far something is from us, the light wavelengths only change length (red shift) if an object is moving either towards or away from us therefore stretching or compressing the wavelengths by a tiny amount. The faster this movement is, the more pronounced red or blue shift.
Well yes and no. The universe is expanding and so the further away things are the more the are red shifted, known as Hubble's Law. However the example he used about why we need to see in infra red isn't really right. The DSO's we photograph are all within our galaxy so aren't moving away fast enough, and may not even be moving away from us. The brightest galaxies are all within our local group, so they may not be even moving away from us, so won't be red shifted either.
how do you transport lens when you fly somewhere? The camera, laptop, wires are pretty standard and you can put tripod in the checked baggage.
I've never flown with my telescope gear. I'm guessing that the mount could be checked in as odd sized luggage. I would try to take the telescope with me as hand luggage, depending on the size?
Nice and instructive video thanks a lot. Wanna ask something: If I correctly understood, IR filter in DSLR cameras need to be removed for modification, right?. What if I do not modify but use IR cut filter instead of removing this piece? Does it create same result?
Hi Volkan, you will be able to do astrophotography, but some deepsky objects - especially ionized Nebula - will remain dim. But bright objects such as globular clusters and planetary Nebula are perfectly doable with An unmodified DSLR.
Hi Volkan, some tips on DSO's: start with the pleiades and/or orion nebula, or globular clusters. They are very bright, you will be able to capture them using a regular, unmodified DSLR
@@AstroForumSpace Thank you for advice. I already took photos of Whirlpool, Andromeda galaksies, Orion, Skull, Sculpture and Saturn nebulas, with an unmodified Canon 800D+Prolong L-Pro filter. If I were in a dark place (I'm a balcony observer in the middle of Ankara, our capital) results should be much much more better. My question was, is there any way to use a DSLR adding a filter, without modifiying it. Seems like no way! :-)
No, unortunately not. I'm also in the city (Utrecht) on my balcony :-). Clear skies!
@@AstroForumSpace many thanks for your intensive care. Can you produce a video, "how to use RGB filters". I couldn't find any in youtube. Are they used one by one or combined, shoul I use a filterwheel etc. This video would be great.
Great Video
thanks!
Great video. Thanks
Which could be a cmos or ccd low cost (not more than 400 $ camera for Astrophotography that you could suggest me to buy new or second hand?
Hi Patrick, I would advise you to buy a DSLR camera like the Canon EOS T7 (4000D) amzn.to/2Pv2kzg. You have some nice bundles with SD card and kit lens (18-55mm) for about $400. You would need a T2 adapter ring to attach it to a telescope, these are around 15 dollars, for example this one:amzn.to/3fzXzz9. The DSLR has CMOS and can also be used during the day. Cheers.
@AstroForum I just have a Canon 600D and T2 adapter and an Sbc2000 Samsung modified by me taking off the IRcut filter but I need to make a new step and I was searching for a specific camera like some older model of ZWO or OHY. For example what do you say about a ZWO ASI 183 MC?
Ps: I want to use it on my ETX105 Meade Mak Telescope with goto motorized
Hi Pat, this bit.ly/30CuDlL ZWO 183 MC is great for planetary imaging, but not so great for deepsky. You would need this bit.ly/31qkWrk cooled zwo 183 Pro (or QHY equivalent) to get significantly better results as compared to a DSLR. Moreover, if I'm correct your Meade has an alt-az mount. For deepsky imaging, you would need an EQ mount. See my getting started section on my website if your interested in deepsky imaging: astroforumspace.com/seven-essential-steps-to-start-astrophotography/
Thanks for the video! What I do not understand (as a 'normal' photographer) - why are these relatively "small" sensor cameras so much better than the sensors in modern "full frame" mirrorless cameras (let's say the EOS Ra) - the sensor in this camera is much bigger - is it really only the cooling? Thanks again :)
The Canon EOS RA can definitely be used for deepsky imaging. However, the cooling system on dedicated deepsky astrophotography cameras dramatically reduces image noise and this will result in an improved image quality as compared to a DSLR camera. Please understand that we often need multiple minutes of exposure time to capture a deepsky object. I'm personally a fan of larger sensor cameras with which you can take beautiful wide field images of the larger objects in the nightsky (e.g., nebula, M33). In some cases however, small sensor cameras can be used on smaller objects such as planets (they only are a couple of arcminutes in aparent magnitude) and the smaller galaxies. It depends on the target you want to want to image.
AstroForum thank you for your answer!
@Viking Queen Hi there. I just released a video on telescopes where I also show my personal APO refractor: th-cam.com/video/LmX0OkXHoSY/w-d-xo.html
Smaller sensors allow allow better crop which essentially boosts your focal length. This can be advantageous for astrophotographers when they want to image smaller objects, but have a wide view scope. I don't think it's fair to say they are 'better' because they are smaller. There are also full frame dedicated cameras with cooling, though expect the cameras to be fairly pricey!
Dedicated cameras, as @astroforum mentions, has the ability to cool the sensor, which in turn, yields better images due to less noise :)
One factor is resolution. Many full frame cameras would have a larger pixel size as well in the ~ 5.7-6um range. There are advantages to these in terms of higher dynamic range however this also means that you need greater focal length to ensure sufficient sampling. A larger focal length will also need to have a larger primary lens/mirror aperture to maintain the same F-stop which makes for a larger, heavier, and probably more expensive telescope as well (plus the heavier + more expensive mount needed to support the larger scope).
Can I use my DSLR for planetary imaging ?
Yes, but the planets will appear as very small dots in your field of view.
@@AstroForumSpace Thanks
@@AstroForumSpace Can you make a full video on Planetary post processing that will help a lot .
Planetary imaging is most often done by means of lucky imaging, i.e. recording video at high fps rate and stacking the best frames. With most DSLRs you can only record at 1080p at most, sometimes 4K. This means the image will be heavily downsampled: your whole sensor will be used but the image is recorded at only a fraction of the resolution. You ideally want a native 1:1 pixel ratio to record planets. Some DSLRs allow for recoding in a certain crop mode, i.e. using only a certain center portion of the sensor to 1) fill the fov and 2) preserve all possible data/detail.
Dedicated astro cameras are much more suited for these tasks.
I'm planning on buying the new ZWO ASI533MC Pro as my first ccd camera. But im alittle confused on how I decide what binning and gain settings should be when I'm photographing. Maybe you can explain this? I'm using apt.
Thanks!
Hi Calzune, I don't own a asi533 but checked the zwo website. It appears that a gain setting of about 150 results in low read noise. I would leave binning to 1x1 for your first images. For my asi1600 I use a gain setting of 139, enjoy the new camera!
@@AstroForumSpace thanks for answer! I may need alittle more detailed answer on what binning really is... I think it is a scaling thing? 1x1 is standard image, 2x2 is scaled down etc is that right?
And gain.. That is ISO in dslr language? Is 139 standard and how do I know if I need more or lower gain on different dso? Is there a way too look in the histogram?
@@Calzune Hi Calzune, not exactly. Pixel binning is when you use multiple pixels to create one bigger pixel. E.g. 2x2 will create one pixel out of four individual pixels. On the one hand it may reduce some detail in dynamic range, but it increases the light captured by your 'superpixel' which may result in a higher quality image, especially on faint DSO's such as faint nebula's. Hope this helps!
@@AstroForumSpace Okey thank you!
@@Calzune as for gain you can indeed compare that to iso settings of your dslr. The standard gain setting is probably around 150 for this camera, but you can ask zwo directly. Ask them if this camera has a so called unity gain setting. Cheers
I am stunned that so many people are making talking videos with some music in the background. These people are not smart enough to realize that a portion of their conversation is lost due to that music they chose to incorporate in their videos. I always wondered where did they go to school. Their teachers must have played music in the classroom while trying to teach the class. How did this stupid process of playing music in a talking, teaching video start? It is counterproductive and never done where someone is paid to teach a class unless it is a music class.
LOL. I've been a teacher too Bob. The main difference is that I can close the door and students are required to listen. Yes, a quiet place helps. On TH-cam, however, people watch videos and have an attention span of let's say 5 seconds, before they click on another video. It's comparable to a slot machine, music and different shots help to prevent people from clicking on other videos. But your right, it hampers the learning process.
@@AstroForumSpace Merry Christmas and please continue with your videos. I enjoyed the information you provided. I am old, Vietnam veteran with hearing disabilities due to combat. I am just starting out obtaining knowledge about telescopes. I have bought 3 telescopes up to this point and I have learned from you how stupid my purchases have been. You are very good at what how you share your knowledge and no amount of any type of music can improve on your already total perfection. Happy New Year and accept my heartfelt apology if I have offended you in anyway. Bob Bailey
@@bobbailey7235 dear Bob, no worries. I'm always happy to receive feedback that allows me to learn and improve. Thank you so much for your kind words, hope you'll find a nice telescope. It's a wonderful hobby. Happy holidays and I hope you'll have a great 2021.