@@RetroPixel_analog Mein Kumpel, thank you, I totally mean it. The pace of your video, the word choice, the whole way it was laid out. I'm grateful for it and subscribed, def looking forward to more great videos from you :).
I been photographing for over 40 years, so I have thousands of negs and slides. I had started scanning, but it takes hours for just a few images, so DSLR is the way to go! Thanks for sharing your process, I leaned something I can apply to my work. Thanks!
You can of course invert your image just by dragging the two levels sliders to the opposite ends and skip the curves adjustment altogether. Thanks for the video.
Yah thats also possible, as with anything, also with inverting your negatives there are always many different ways to do the same thing. I showed some more options in my two life streams. Maybe you like it. Greetings.
Good job! I do the same panorama trick also for 35mm negatives. I obtain digital files with a great detail and sharpness. I also suggest to use the sweet point of your lens (which should be around f8 and f11), lowest iso possible, and a cable release remote with liveview as you did or mirror lock up.
Nice to hear that you liked it. I mostly use selftimer to scan negatives with the dslr, since my d850 has a silent mode, which is mirror up automatically, i maybe forgot to recommend this. So thanks for your nice little reminder. Greetings.
Great video, indeed, and a fantastic idea of how to make by yourself. However, one difference exists between photographing a slide or negative versus using a film scanner: Its the Infra red channel, which provides software with the ability to eliminate mechanical scratches and dust particles. This simplifies post-process significantly.
Thats true! But if you ise photoshop you have some nice tools to eliminate these problems with ease. www.udemy.com/course/affinity-photo-for-analog-film-photographers-ipad-version/?referralCode=69AA7ABAAF584F3102F8 greetings and have a nice day.
Yahh that sounds good, i also would have done it that way but i gave mine away very cheap and as it is most of the time, no i could need it. So i would not have to use my big tripod which is filling nearly half of my room 😂😅. Have fun working on your images.
Thanks man! I'd really love to use Photoshop and have full control. I currently use Lightroom and Negative Lab Pro but I honestly hate all the magic. I mostly shoot B&W. The thing that's holding me back is the ability to do batch work but I think it should be possible in Photoshop too. I think a video showing how to invert/process a full roll at once would be fantastic and probably helpful to all!
Hi, since your question is absolutely awesome here a little hint: create an action in ps, make the base inversion and include the saving and closing of the file (under original name) in the action. Run a batch job from photoshop using your just created action. Maybe i will do a video on this since it really is a cool question. Have fun and stay safe! Greetings.
RetroPixel I did do something like that but when you have a roll of 36 shots where each one requires small adjustments it quickly becomes a nightmare. This little experiment made me so grateful to have a tool like NegativeLabPro which actually works great!
I like the panorama idea for 6X6 or larger.! I assumed it would introduce some softness but have to try. Do you know of anything that will invert the image directly without the shown reversal method? All your editing is then also reversed is it not?
For some reason Photoshop is smart enough to not inverse all your tools. So as long as you do the inversion in PS, it will work easy. Or you have a look at one of my latest videos (life streams, there i show a batch editing method). Greetings.
I am trying to do the same with 50mm, 18-55 70-200 mm canon lens. I am not able to focus on the image unless i move the camera upward.. this makes negative appear small. Do i need a macro lens?
Do you have a link to the file you used to 3D print the holder?? It looks incredibly useful, but I'm not sure what it's exact dimensions are.. Great video!
Great with 6x6 demo! Question, I have the Nikkor 60mm micro for my 35mm negatives, will this work well for the 6x6 stitching? And, how did you make the frame for the light table? Thank you!
Hi, i never used the 60mm micro, so i can not really answer that question. The frame was 3d printed. I got the file for the 35mm holder of thingyverse and made the 6x7 one by myself.
How about larger negatives? I plan to obtain a Shen Hao 6x17, which attaches a 120 film back, shooting a 6x17 negative.The camera is a large format camera. I was planning to scan the negative but this may be a better method.
This should work, i allready digitized a 4x5 inch negative that way. BUT make sure the image and the lens are absolutely plane to another also make sure the focus is locked and does not change. The smallest change even with a high aperture can result in visable focus differences after stitching the image.
Thats true, but i don't really like the function. With colour negatives it does not produce useable results and for black and white i have way better controll over my contrasts and such things if i do all this on the computer. This function for sure is a nice quick preview of your work. Well in my opinion. :-)
yes it would, but make sure that you have some distance between the negative and the screen. Otherwise you will not just see the negative but also the pixel from the screen. Greets
Hey there - amazing video - thank you for sharing! I use a second hand repro tripod from Kaiser which makes it even easier to align the camera and set it up :) may I ask how you built that negative holder? thats super amazing. would love to have something like this for my MF (6x6 and 6x7). Can you maybe do a blog post of the construction or even sell it? ;)
can i print with a b/w laser printer a negative on folio, pictures from taken with a dsl camera, to make a oldschool laburatuar bath picture print process?
well yah actually some people do that. But honestly... I don´t get the point of doing that. Instead of spending money on special printing foils just go out and by a cheapo camera and some film. You can start analog (camera , lens and film) from 10-15 $ if you start out with a cheap SLR with M42 mount.
Hi sorry for my late answer. In this case you could do contact prints, that should work. Simply print a negatie onto a foil and place it on the paper (no enlarger needed). Also have a look at the cyanotype process.
Really good tips for DSLR scanning but to me your last statement about the resolution is a bit weird. 11.000 pixel is enough for sharing online and instagram? For small zines and instagram a cheap scanner is enough because you will never need more than 3000 pixels on the long edge for that. With 11.000 pixels you can produce really lage prints.
Ahaha thanks for the comment, the thing that i said about the resolution was of course with sarcasm. Since ,as you just said, 11.000px is more then most people will ever need. Next time i try to make my sarcasm more clearly 🙈😅. Thanks for watching my video about dslr scanning.
I'm using exactly this method to scan slides. but I wonder if a full spectrum light source would give you better results for colour slides or negatives. What do you think of that?
Hey, to be honest i never thought about that. Since i mostly shoot BW color is not such a big thing for me. But, before i had my light table i used a selfmade light box where i used a speedlight to produce the light. Speedlights usually hav a wider spectrum then LEDs but i did not really see a massive difference between my scans then and now. But feel free to try it yourself and to comment on here :-) greetings.
Hi, i never had problems with bleeding light or anything. Maybe because i photograph the emulsion side, which is generally less reflective and of course turn all roomlights of for the actual photo.
have you noticed a difference in focus clarity using a dslr scanning with the negative directly on the light source and covered with non reflective glass compared to placing the negative in a holder on the light source?
Hey, i do not cover my negs with glas. I shoot them emulsion side up with a slight distance from the light source. So far i had no newton rings. Sharpness also should be great with this tec. If u have problems you can of course try to use anti newton glass on the light source. Shoothing through glas of course (depending on the quality of the glas) can lead to slightly less sharper images. Just like with a regular scanner. The more you put between your negative and your sensor the worse the result will be.
Great video, very informative! How did you make the holder? Would the distance it creates above the light source be sufficient to avoid showing pixels if you were using a monitor / tablet for light? Thanks
I think this very much depends on your depth of field. If you use a macro lens with open aperture it could work. The holder was 3D printed. But one thing that comes into my mind. You could simply build it from some matteboard and if to low about the surface, simply place some stuf under the corners eg. coins or something like that. Greetings.
I used three rolls of sellotape positioned the negative strip between the top roll and the second one, needed rolls of sellotape below the negative so pixels wouldn't be seen I just used an iPad which was set on whitedisplay.com. I am happy with my results, just cropped it after, I used a canon 700d kit lens, nothing spectacular but it done the job and in my opinion very well too.
just one question, you said you dont want to scratch the negatives with the surface of the light table, but couldnt you possibly be scratching it with the inner surface of the holder itself?
No i could not, i put verry soft velor in the inside of the holder, the only thing that happened in the beginning was, that the negs catched some hair from it die to the static charge. 😊
@@RetroPixel_analog Wow, thats actually awesome! Thanks! Is it possible to get a CAD layout for these in any way? That way we can 3d print them in 2 pieces and make them ourselves:)
ahhhm yes, if i find the files again than it is. I just solled my 3d printer so i am not sure if i still have them. But there is an identical 35mm holder on Thingyverse.
2:49 You are assuming that everyone's floor is perfectly level. If it is not, like mine, it doesn't make any difference how level you camera is. Your negative will still be out of plane with your sensor.
Mine is not perfectly level either, thats why i use a high aperture and post sharpening. To overcome the mistakes. I used a bubble leveler to find the most leveled part in my flat. You could also use a table. The ideal way would be to use a copy stand but at the time of making the video, i did not have one. Greetings.
Sure, i 3d printed it by myself. There was a premade file for the 35mm one on the internet (search thingyverse for "filmholder") i think they also offer printservice. The 120 filmholder i created by myself with a free cad app. But you could instead use some matte- or foamboard and gut out a holder. Just make sure the edges are clean from debree, so you dont have hair or other particles from the material on the picture. Hope i could somehow help.
Hi, this works basically exactly the same. The only pain is removing the orange layer from the negative. But there are some workarounds. Maybe i am going to create a video about this topic.
No i don't. Until now there was no reason for me to use it. And also i don't have the money left over. I think it is a really interesting software that could take away some work. Also i see and understand the benefit of directly manipulating the RAW image. Maybe one day.
Hi, i could only sell you the 120 holder since i created it by myself (copyright stuff). The 35mm is free to find on thingiverse (it s a 3d print file) tell me if u ned the link. Maybe you find a local person who can print it for you. But if u want to save money, go buy some mat board and cut it out of that. Simply make the hole in the backside a bit bigger for enough light to pass through. Greetings
Do u use one of these film wiper tools to remove the water after developing? They can often produce scratches in your negatives due to their age, wrong handling (e.g using them dry) or bad quality. Or do u talk about other hatching lines? Maybe u can share a link to a picture with us? Greetings
The Ohnar is very interesting indeed. But since i allready own the macro lens due to my photography job, spending extra money for me was not a real option since it was not really neccecarry
Hi, thanks for watching. Sorry for the music. In my later videos inalways tried to make the music less distracting. I am still not too good at video editing but i do my best to improve on that. Until then every comment pushing me to the right direction is helpfull. So thanks for that. Have a great time. Greetings.
Hey, you maybe misunderstand the purpose of post sharpening shoot film. You do not sharpen to make it "more sharp". You sharpen because most consumer grade scanning techniques are either not perfectly in focus (most flatbed scanners) or not perfectly in level (like with my diy method). You end up with images that are (as mentioned above) slightly out of focus. To overcome this mistake you aply post sharpening. So the reason for post sharpening is not to make the image sharp like a digital one but to make it as sharp as it normaly would be. I always print my pictures in the darkroom so i have something to compare and i know, i am not over sharpening. But because you said sharpening shoot film makes no sense. I recoment you read about unsharp masking! Its originally a darkroom technique. So even in analog times, "sharpening" was something that was not too uncommon. Greetings.
dude this was a great video - love the way you walk through this, great speed, informative and one of the best videos I've seen on this. Danke :)
Thanks i am happy you liked it. Comments like this one is what keeps me going on with youtube greetings.
@@RetroPixel_analog Mein Kumpel, thank you, I totally mean it. The pace of your video, the word choice, the whole way it was laid out. I'm grateful for it and subscribed, def looking forward to more great videos from you :).
I been photographing for over 40 years, so I have thousands of negs and slides. I had started scanning, but it takes hours for just a few images, so DSLR is the way to go!
Thanks for sharing your process, I leaned something I can apply to my work.
Thanks!
So glad it was useful for you. Have fun.
Good and informative Presentation. Thank u Bro.
Great ideas about focusing on the grain and stitching larger negatives together. Thanks.
I am doing exactly the same conversion process. Great video
mate, you described things really well, thank you. Now is a good time to do what I've been putting off for ages. Regards, John from NZ.
Thank you so much.
Good stuff! I had not thought about the panorama option! Will have to try it 👌🏻
subscribed and thanks for a very informative tutorial. My ah-ha moment was simply seeing your inverted tripod setup haha
Thanks for your kind words. I am so glad my video about "How to scan Negatives with a DSLR" was usefull for you!
Nicely done!
Thanks!
You can of course invert your image just by dragging the two levels sliders to the opposite ends and skip the curves adjustment altogether. Thanks for the video.
Yah thats also possible, as with anything, also with inverting your negatives there are always many different ways to do the same thing. I showed some more options in my two life streams. Maybe you like it. Greetings.
Good job! I do the same panorama trick also for 35mm negatives. I obtain digital files with a great detail and sharpness. I also suggest to use the sweet point of your lens (which should be around f8 and f11), lowest iso possible, and a cable release remote with liveview as you did or mirror lock up.
Nice to hear that you liked it. I mostly use selftimer to scan negatives with the dslr, since my d850 has a silent mode, which is mirror up automatically, i maybe forgot to recommend this. So thanks for your nice little reminder. Greetings.
Very professional and knowledgeable.
Thank you very much for your kind words. Glad the video helped you. :-)
Very nice video
Thanks a lot, glad you liked it :-)
Great video, indeed, and a fantastic idea of how to make by yourself.
However, one difference exists between photographing a slide or negative versus using a film scanner: Its the Infra red channel, which provides software with the ability to eliminate mechanical scratches and dust particles. This simplifies post-process significantly.
Thats true! But if you ise photoshop you have some nice tools to eliminate these problems with ease. www.udemy.com/course/affinity-photo-for-analog-film-photographers-ipad-version/?referralCode=69AA7ABAAF584F3102F8 greetings and have a nice day.
I have a duplicating stand and use it for duplication of prints. I'm going to try this for some of the old 2 1/4 x 2 1/4 negatives I have. Great idea.
Yahh that sounds good, i also would have done it that way but i gave mine away very cheap and as it is most of the time, no i could need it. So i would not have to use my big tripod which is filling nearly half of my room 😂😅. Have fun working on your images.
Very intresting. Very nice tutorial. Well done.
Thanks a .lot. :-)
Thanks man! I'd really love to use Photoshop and have full control. I currently use Lightroom and Negative Lab Pro but I honestly hate all the magic. I mostly shoot B&W. The thing that's holding me back is the ability to do batch work but I think it should be possible in Photoshop too. I think a video showing how to invert/process a full roll at once would be fantastic and probably helpful to all!
Hi, since your question is absolutely awesome here a little hint: create an action in ps, make the base inversion and include the saving and closing of the file (under original name) in the action. Run a batch job from photoshop using your just created action. Maybe i will do a video on this since it really is a cool question. Have fun and stay safe! Greetings.
RetroPixel I did do something like that but when you have a roll of 36 shots where each one requires small adjustments it quickly becomes a nightmare. This little experiment made me so grateful to have a tool like NegativeLabPro which actually works great!
I like the panorama idea for 6X6 or larger.! I assumed it would introduce some softness but have to try. Do you know of anything that will invert the image directly without the shown reversal method? All your editing is then also reversed is it not?
For some reason Photoshop is smart enough to not inverse all your tools. So as long as you do the inversion in PS, it will work easy. Or you have a look at one of my latest videos (life streams, there i show a batch editing method). Greetings.
Very helpful, subscribed straight away!
Thank you, thats why i create videos. Glad to hear they are useful. :-)
I am trying to do the same with 50mm, 18-55 70-200 mm canon lens. I am not able to focus on the image unless i move the camera upward.. this makes negative appear small. Do i need a macro lens?
Hi, yah i for my part used a macro lens.
Do you have a link to the file you used to 3D print the holder?? It looks incredibly useful, but I'm not sure what it's exact dimensions are.. Great video!
Hi, do you refer to the 35mm or 120 film holder? the 35mm film holder was from Thingyverse, and the 120film holder i created by myself.
Great with 6x6 demo! Question, I have the Nikkor 60mm micro for my 35mm negatives, will this work well for the 6x6 stitching? And, how did you make the frame for the light table? Thank you!
Hi, i never used the 60mm micro, so i can not really answer that question.
The frame was 3d printed. I got the file for the 35mm holder of thingyverse and made the 6x7 one by myself.
I think they also offer cheap printservices. www.thingiverse.com/search?q=Film+scanner&type=things&sort=relevant
How about larger negatives? I plan to obtain a Shen Hao 6x17, which attaches a 120 film back, shooting a 6x17 negative.The camera is a large format camera. I was planning to scan the negative but this may be a better method.
This should work, i allready digitized a 4x5 inch negative that way. BUT make sure the image and the lens are absolutely plane to another also make sure the focus is locked and does not change. The smallest change even with a high aperture can result in visable focus differences after stitching the image.
@@RetroPixel_analog Thank you
The Nikon D850 has a funcion build in that convert the negative to positive.
Thats true, but i don't really like the function. With colour negatives it does not produce useable results and for black and white i have way better controll over my contrasts and such things if i do all this on the computer. This function for sure is a nice quick preview of your work. Well in my opinion. :-)
I don't have a light box. Would a tablet with white background be suffice for scanning negatives
yes it would, but make sure that you have some distance between the negative and the screen. Otherwise you will not just see the negative but also the pixel from the screen. Greets
@@RetroPixel_analog thanks
Excellent!
thank you so much
Hey there - amazing video - thank you for sharing!
I use a second hand repro tripod from Kaiser which makes it even easier to align the camera and set it up :)
may I ask how you built that negative holder? thats super amazing. would love to have something like this for my MF (6x6 and 6x7).
Can you maybe do a blog post of the construction or even sell it? ;)
Yah a repro tripod is a perfect solution. I sadly gave mine away without further thinking about it. 🙄.
can i print with a b/w laser printer a negative on folio, pictures from taken with a dsl camera, to make a oldschool laburatuar bath picture print process?
well yah actually some people do that. But honestly... I don´t get the point of doing that. Instead of spending money on special printing foils just go out and by a cheapo camera and some film. You can start analog (camera , lens and film) from 10-15 $ if you start out with a cheap SLR with M42 mount.
@@RetroPixel_analog i try go get a digital picture on analog paper printing method, I wonderng of the result
Hi sorry for my late answer. In this case you could do contact prints, that should work. Simply print a negatie onto a foil and place it on the paper (no enlarger needed). Also have a look at the cyanotype process.
Subscribed. Great work. I'm about to do the same with my D850. How did you determine the distance between the lens and the film? Trial and error?
Mostly trial and error, but it is a really quick thing.
Really good tips for DSLR scanning but to me your last statement about the resolution is a bit weird. 11.000 pixel is enough for sharing online and instagram? For small zines and instagram a cheap scanner is enough because you will never need more than 3000 pixels on the long edge for that. With 11.000 pixels you can produce really lage prints.
Ahaha thanks for the comment, the thing that i said about the resolution was of course with sarcasm. Since ,as you just said, 11.000px is more then most people will ever need. Next time i try to make my sarcasm more clearly 🙈😅. Thanks for watching my video about dslr scanning.
I'm using exactly this method to scan slides. but I wonder if a full spectrum light source would give you better results for colour slides or negatives. What do you think of that?
Hey, to be honest i never thought about that. Since i mostly shoot BW color is not such a big thing for me. But, before i had my light table i used a selfmade light box where i used a speedlight to produce the light. Speedlights usually hav a wider spectrum then LEDs but i did not really see a massive difference between my scans then and now. But feel free to try it yourself and to comment on here :-) greetings.
Don’t you want to block the surrounding area of any light bleeding over the image?
Hi, i never had problems with bleeding light or anything. Maybe because i photograph the emulsion side, which is generally less reflective and of course turn all roomlights of for the actual photo.
have you noticed a difference in focus clarity using a dslr scanning with the negative directly on the light source and covered with non reflective glass compared to placing the negative in a holder on the light source?
Hey, i do not cover my negs with glas. I shoot them emulsion side up with a slight distance from the light source. So far i had no newton rings. Sharpness also should be great with this tec.
If u have problems you can of course try to use anti newton glass on the light source.
Shoothing through glas of course (depending on the quality of the glas) can lead to slightly less sharper images. Just like with a regular scanner. The more you put between your negative and your sensor the worse the result will be.
Great video, very informative! How did you make the holder? Would the distance it creates above the light source be sufficient to avoid showing pixels if you were using a monitor / tablet for light? Thanks
I think this very much depends on your depth of field. If you use a macro lens with open aperture it could work. The holder was 3D printed. But one thing that comes into my mind. You could simply build it from some matteboard and if to low about the surface, simply place some stuf under the corners eg. coins or something like that. Greetings.
I used three rolls of sellotape positioned the negative strip between the top roll and the second one, needed rolls of sellotape below the negative so pixels wouldn't be seen I just used an iPad which was set on whitedisplay.com. I am happy with my results, just cropped it after, I used a canon 700d kit lens, nothing spectacular but it done the job and in my opinion very well too.
Great, that just shows how awesome DSLR scanning is, even if there is no crazy expensive equipment. Thanks for your Idea on this.
just one question, you said you dont want to scratch the negatives with the surface of the light table, but couldnt you possibly be scratching it with the inner surface of the holder itself?
No i could not, i put verry soft velor in the inside of the holder, the only thing that happened in the beginning was, that the negs catched some hair from it die to the static charge. 😊
@@RetroPixel_analog Wow, thats actually awesome! Thanks! Is it possible to get a CAD layout for these in any way? That way we can 3d print them in 2 pieces and make them ourselves:)
ahhhm yes, if i find the files again than it is. I just solled my 3d printer so i am not sure if i still have them. But there is an identical 35mm holder on Thingyverse.
2:49 You are assuming that everyone's floor is perfectly level. If it is not, like mine, it doesn't make any difference how level you camera is. Your negative will still be out of plane with your sensor.
Mine is not perfectly level either, thats why i use a high aperture and post sharpening. To overcome the mistakes. I used a bubble leveler to find the most leveled part in my flat. You could also use a table. The ideal way would be to use a copy stand but at the time of making the video, i did not have one. Greetings.
Thats a good idea, happy you found a solution.
Very interesting and informative, may I ask where you I can obtain the white single negative carrier that you were using, thank you.
Sure, i 3d printed it by myself. There was a premade file for the 35mm one on the internet (search thingyverse for "filmholder") i think they also offer printservice. The 120 filmholder i created by myself with a free cad app. But you could instead use some matte- or foamboard and gut out a holder. Just make sure the edges are clean from debree, so you dont have hair or other particles from the material on the picture. Hope i could somehow help.
How about a video on scanning a color negative using the same method?
Hi, this works basically exactly the same. The only pain is removing the orange layer from the negative. But there are some workarounds. Maybe i am going to create a video about this topic.
You don't use Negative Lab Pro?
No i don't. Until now there was no reason for me to use it. And also i don't have the money left over. I think it is a really interesting software that could take away some work. Also i see and understand the benefit of directly manipulating the RAW image. Maybe one day.
Would you consider selling your 120 and 35mm holders? I’d be interested!
Hi, i could only sell you the 120 holder since i created it by myself (copyright stuff). The 35mm is free to find on thingiverse (it s a 3d print file) tell me if u ned the link. Maybe you find a local person who can print it for you. But if u want to save money, go buy some mat board and cut it out of that. Simply make the hole in the backside a bit bigger for enough light to pass through. Greetings
Lomography make a nice negative holder, Digitaliza. I use their 120mm version and its great!
You can find the 35mm version of the holder on Thingyverse (made by another user) if i find my 120mm version i will put it onto my blog, for free.
I am getting hatching lines in my images when I develop. How to get rid of them?
Do u use one of these film wiper tools to remove the water after developing? They can often produce scratches in your negatives due to their age, wrong handling (e.g using them dry) or bad quality.
Or do u talk about other hatching lines? Maybe u can share a link to a picture with us? Greetings
Why not use a slide / neg copier such as an Ohnar for £ 20 / $20 off of ebay ?
You could then get away with not having to buy a macro lens.
The Ohnar is very interesting indeed. But since i allready own the macro lens due to my photography job, spending extra money for me was not a real option since it was not really neccecarry
Great video, spoiled by distracting background music
Hi, thanks for watching. Sorry for the music. In my later videos inalways tried to make the music less distracting. I am still not too good at video editing but i do my best to improve on that. Until then every comment pushing me to the right direction is helpfull. So thanks for that. Have a great time. Greetings.
adding sharpness to a shoot film is like add grain to a digital pic shooting at ISO100, not sense
Hey, you maybe misunderstand the purpose of post sharpening shoot film.
You do not sharpen to make it "more sharp". You sharpen because most consumer grade scanning techniques are either not perfectly in focus (most flatbed scanners) or not perfectly in level (like with my diy method). You end up with images that are (as mentioned above) slightly out of focus. To overcome this mistake you aply post sharpening.
So the reason for post sharpening is not to make the image sharp like a digital one but to make it as sharp as it normaly would be. I always print my pictures in the darkroom so i have something to compare and i know, i am not over sharpening.
But because you said sharpening shoot film makes no sense. I recoment you read about unsharp masking! Its originally a darkroom technique. So even in analog times, "sharpening" was something that was not too uncommon.
Greetings.