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sounds super interesting. Especially the glass plate thing! Some people don it again these days. I love seeing their works. But not everyone is good at estimating distances.

Provided you have not worked the transport lever ( not even partly) after you took the last exposure, the frame counter returns to the start automatically when you remove the camera back to change the film if you partly moved the lever even partly, youbhsve tontrigger the shutter before opening the camera to activate the mechanism.

Since the aperture is manual it kind of always is in priority. I really just set my aperture and set the camera to automatic. I did not care about reciprocity at all. Just did all of this super experimentally. Besides that, i would say that Foma is not nearly as bad as many people say. I nearly always have good results, unless i screw it. Only bad thing i can say is, that every now and then they have some artifacts or impurities in the emulsion but its not too bad. I really like shooting the 100 and 400 speed films.

thanks! these are also kind of my favorites.

Thank you so much! 😊

yah, but you could use an external rangefinder such as the „TELEX“ or Watameter or the BLIK from Lomo (the 1990s ones but be careful with that things, there are a lot of problematic units on the market). There should also be one from Voigtländer and many other companies. Such a thing will make your life a lot easier. Well… atleast if the rangefinder is correctly calibrated 😅😂. The Telex: ebay.us/vH2XAz The Watameter: ebay.us/T9aCK7 Others: ebay.us/bJRvP1 (the above links are affiliate links). There accuracy strongly depends on if they are calibrated for closeup- or far distances. There are also ones from Kodak that offer close up kits. But i can not tell you if they are any good, since i never used the kodak ones. I have a Telex and calibrated it myself for closer distances. But to be honest, i have no more zone focusing camera in my arsenal. I got rid of them. Greetings.

Thsnks for the info! I take care of it!

Hey, usually I would say you are right but please do not forget, that i primarily digitize pictures in order to use them on TH-cam or my website. My regular prints are done in the darkroom. I also always try, not to do edits to digitized images, that i could not do the same way in the darkroom. And after scanning you need some esditing, since linear scans just do not look nice. The only time I really digitally edit more then usual is in color film shots or digital shots. Greetings

hi, so it was either Fuji X-ray film (UM-MA) or CEA. I developed using a rotary processor.

glad it helps 🙃

thanks a lot, glad i could help. well I consider the shots to be ok, there is definetly room for improvement on my end haha. But thanks a lot again :-) greets.

@@RetroPixel_analog not at all! have a great weekend 🍻

i did not know i have disabled it. thanks for the hint. glad you liked the pictures!

so glad i could help 😂🙃🙃🙃

yah, sadly the third video got lost before i could share it as a short. But there is another full 10min video, Same Camera same film :-) Nikon F5 | Unboxing & Test Shoot [ Fomapan 100 ] th-cam.com/video/9fd03trzEjs/w-d-xo.html

thank you for your response, is there something i should have been more clear about to make it more understandable for beginners? Greetings.

@@RetroPixel_analog The problem is not with you. I found it beyond my capacity because I am at the very beginning of Photoshop and still have to learn my way around all the functions that you mention. Thanks anyway.

yah i had the same problem with my first tries. turns out that you need actual red safelight. not that orangy stuff they sell nowerdays. and also it should not be too intensive. I have Aa 660nm light perfect for all my normal papers and so on but too strong for that film. Tested my orange light …. nope bad idea. solution. i took the orange light, doubled up a res lee filter foil ( i do not remember the number but it has to be the correct one) put it on the light and it worked. also make sure the light is atleast one meter away from your film (better 2). To cut the film in nearly total darknes i marked two different positions of my cutter with scotch, so i can feel them in the dark and know how to position the sheets. Also, be very very careful some X-ray films are coted on both sides and they do not forgive anything! They scratch super easily and the emulsion also can come of easily. Good luck! If everything works out, this is a super cheap way to shoot and also the results can be super nice.

Hey Eugen, thanks for your question. It can indeed feel complicated to buy the right enlarger. And i bought several different ones before i bought the one you see in the Video. So the one in the Video is a Jobo (Saunders) LPL 7451. It can handle everything from 35mm up to 4x5 inch. It has a color printing head (or additionally a multi grade filter head). The Multigrade filter head is awesome but also has a learning curve. The Saunders is actually a relatively expensive enlarger but at the same time not the most expensive either. I think it offers great value for its cost. There are of course always even better and more expensive ones like the high end Durst enlargers, which can be paired with the Heiland split grade module but they can easily go to prices of 3000-4000€ (depending on the image format). For me, i think i will stick with that enlarger, since i do not plan on making prints bigger than 30x40 cm or maybe 50x60. If you want to go way bigger you should buy one that has a rotateable head, so you can project to a wall. In Case you decide to buy the LPL 7451 used, make sure it comes with a working Stabilized Power Supply. otherwise you will not be happy. Also i know that you can find these things on KHB from time to time. (Expensive)! Pleas let me know if you need any further assistance. Also if you only plan to shoot 6x6 or 35mm there are cheaper alternatives that are also very good. EG the Dunco 66 (II) with ilford VC module. Dunco VC module: ebay.us/cOGVQs Dunco model 66: ebay.us/TgcO8P (these are affilate links, by using them you will support my channel without paying a cent more).

@@RetroPixel_analog Thank you for the very detailed response! I will look into every option you recommended. Right now, I shoot 35, but I plan to at least get a 120 format camera.

Glad it was helpful! Have fun with the Minox 35 it is an awesome camera.

Hi, i did not use any correction. In terms of X-Ray film i worked a bit experimental. Usually i would measure three different spots, Highlights, shadows, mid tones and then (by knowing the film i shoot with) i would try to find a good average so i do not loose any detail. I personally prefer Flat negatives, since i control the contrast later in the darkroom. But since i did not really know the film it was more of a trial and error. I used the same method but from what i read online i knew that the results will always be very contrasty. Also X-Ray film has not the widest dynamic range so be careful with Highlights and shadows.

Hi, i think i replayed to another user on this question. The originals are quite hard to find if not impossible at the moment because Minox does not make them anymore. But there are some third party ones (i do not know how good they are, thats why i do not officially recommend them).

heyy if you got the camera in good condition with an accurately working shutter, then it really is a great camera. Sadly, the original minox adapters are no longer produced so you either have to find an alternative or you have to build something by yourself. Sometimes you can be lucky and find one on ebay but people are aware, that they are rare and so the prices are high.

glad you bougt yourself a RB 67. It´s a great camera. Have fun shooting it!

Yes, if you know how to use the film and understand its limits it can indeed be a very good film.

my fault. the button needed for the minox are LR43 if you use the original minox adapter. i have no experience with other ones