Using Circular Saw Blades on a Table Saw for Woodworking
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 10 ส.ค. 2017
- In this video we review using circular saw blades on your table saw.
Many new woodworkers have learned you can install a 7-1/4" Circular Saw Blade (also known as skill saw blades) in your Table Saw to replace the 10" blade without any adjustments or adapters, while giving your table saw some new woodworking options
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Another great video, thanks Colin! Also, thank you for the extensive testing every time, different types of woods and both ripping and crosscutting, very nice.
Thanks for comment on that, I appreciate the feedback
Great info. Thanks. I always wondered what the difference in cut really is between ripping and cross cut blades. Now I know.
I tried this idea and it works great. I bought a (2) pack of very fine kerf, 80 tooth circular saw blades and have been using it to rip very expensive white oak trim pieces. Nice clean cut, less dust, and less waste. Thank you for reminding me of this technique. I did this years ago and have just not thought about it until seeing your video!
What did you do about your riving knife? Did you have any issues with kickback?
I left the riving knife in place. I have not experienced any kick back when using this technique. But, I have only used it on trim pieces, cabinet doors, etc… usually hardwoods. And, the kerf barely clears the top surface of the work piece. Hope that helps.
Kind of excited to find this. Was checking to see if I could put my 7-1/4" Diablo Demo Demon in the tablesaw as to rip down some old reclaimed lumber with a few nails in it. I think I will have the confidence to try it now. Thanks!
The late Bob chase (the master woodworker, TH-cam channel) did a great video called taming your table saw were he advocated this very thing. He used a 7 1/4 blade for all his cabinet making.
I never thought of using a circular saw blade before but I will have to try it. Thanks!
+John Kelley You're welcome. Thanks for watching!
Interesting video on circular saw blades. I actually use the less expensive circular saw blades on a regular basis. Whenever I need to make a lot of repeat cuts on common lumber the smaller blades do just fine. I don't need fine cutting on a 2 x 4. I just keep some Harbor Freight circular saw blades on hand. They work fine. Enjoy watching you teaching us. Mike
Thanks for watching Mike and thanks for the info!
Another enjoyable video. Thanks.
Great idea. Definitely giving it a try.
QUALITY!!! Quality video!!!
Great video! Thanks. Learned a bunch before I was even halfway through b
Always a good idea to buy the 7 1/4” diablo blade that is made to cut through nails when using reclaimed or pallet wood. I think they only run around $10 or $15 too 👍🏼
I use them all the time! Perfect for sheet goods. Nice thin kerf too.
Thanks Colin! Useful info as usual.
+Sludgepump Thanks for watching
thanks for the suggestion I like the idea of using the thinner blade and minimizing waste sawdust
+Curtis Keller You're welcome. Thanks for watching!
You know Collin, I have been making small boxes from 1/4" hardwood which by the way ain't exactly cheap and this video made me realize that the 7 1/4 cs blade would be great for that not to mention that I cut very close tolerance miters while I'm at it. I may just be able to keep one or more fingers attached to my hands this way.
The last time I did this was while making a ts insert that the 10" blade wouldn't fit under for the first cut.. I had to go and install a 6" single dado blade for that particular job, but the cs blade may just do the trick.
My gnarly old fingers thank you for the tip..
Thanks for commenting Martino ... yes, please make sure you keep those fingers ...
You are correct, working with smaller pieces like making boxes is a bit more dangerous so thinner kerf circ blades could help that safety a bit as well. Thanks for commenting ... stay safe buddy
Been using the smaller blades for a while now and it's great
Thanks for watching Chiss
excellent..good minds work alike.. I have been using circular blades on my Ryobi precision cutting table saw for a while. My use started the day had a cheap blade that lost two teeth.. i used various 7 1/4s.. blade spins faster.. cleaner cuts,, narrower kerf..thanks love your vids,,big follower.. j.
Actually, if the motor is pulling full power. the smaller blades would travel slower. A circular saw runs like 20-30% faster than a typical table saw. 7.25 blades are running 120 lineal ft / s instead of the the 10 inch going at 165 ft/s -ish.
I have an old 1962 Rockwell 9 inch saw,blades are hard to find as well as a variety
So I just used the diablo blades you have shown.i got use to the blade height.
I recently found an 8 inch. Diablo blade.now I have more height.but the kerf is 1/8(120thou).i didn't realize the kerf of the 71/4 skil saw blade was only .060thou.
I'm going back to 71/4.but only use the 8 in. For height.
Plus my saw runs smoother with smaller blade
Nice informative vid
God this is so useful. My 80t 10" blade is pretty thick AND more importantly i think, very heavy. The startup on my tablesaw is always pretty rough with such a heavy blade. This ought to help a ton.
Great job on the video Colin!
Thanks Paul
TY - great stuff!!
Another informative video, thank you. Now for your next challenge... Let's put a 10" table saw blade in my 7 1/4" circ saw for lopping off 4x4's! :)
I'd pay to see that :-) I have a 10 inch skilsaw Bigfoot, but it's a little scary.
Riving Knife : Most knives are made to the factory blade thickness. When swapping out to a circular diablo blade its much thinner than the knife usually, how did you account for that or was your knife already thin enough ?
I had to remove the riving knife and create a new table saw insert and I added a splitter
Nother good one Colin. Take care.
Thanks buddy
*Interesting video Colin, something that I wasn't aware of.*
Thanks for watching!
*You're Welcome Colin :)*
i put a old Vermont Am. hollow Ground planer blade I had laying around, worked great.
A long time ago when I was a pup I used a 'hollow ground planer' blade it made really good cuts ready for glue joints. Or minimal sanding for finish work. I used to use the 7 and 1/4 inch blade on my radial arm saw.
I had a RAS quite some time ago but never had the occasion to outfit it with a circ blade, but yes it would work assuming you could lower it down enough, which obviously yours did ... good point, thanks for this
I keep a selection of 7 1/4" blades for my table saw. I've had good luck with the Vermont American Laser X2 (v groove teeth)
Thank you for this video Colin!
I’m wondering if I could use Micro Jig’s splitters via a zero clearance insertwith a blade of this diameter? If so, would the splitters have to be installed closer to the blade because it’s smaller than the 10”? The riving knife on my Dewalt contractor saw is askew and isn’t adjustable so I have to find a way around using it.
Thank you again!
never did I think of doing that. thanks
You're Welcome. Thanks for watching!
Great video, as usual, Colin. I'm wondering also if it's a good idea to use the smaller blade to cut plexiglass.
If yes, then would it be better to use the 24 tooth blade or the 40 tooth blade?
I really like your videos. So much so, that I subscribed to your channel :)
Thanks Robert!
Hi Colin, great video as always - I have been thinking about using blades from my circular saw or mitre saw in my table saw, however the blades from the circular saw and mitre saw are both mad from a thinner material and will not grip on the arbor correctly! The Table saw is certainly not from the high end of the market but will need to suffice for a few more years yet! Any thoughts? shim of some sort?
Thank you.
You're welcome Robert!
...WE USED THE 71/4" BLADE ON THE 10" TABLE SAW IN SHOP CLASS BACK IN 1963...
Colin, I am using a 7-1/4" blade on my tablesaw but its an old saw with no riving knife. The MJ thin kerf is too big that's 3/32. 71/4 is 1/16 what would work as a splitter? I need to make something. Any ideas? Thank you
Can this blade be used with your bowl jig if we went very slow?
Hey colin. With plywood and malamine seeing they are manufactured woods there wouldn't be a cross cut would there?
I'm just getting into woodworking. I've read a few places that a thicker blade is desirable if you're cutting through a nail. Is it a good idea to have a thick junk blade for this type of work?
Colin you mentioned on your website that you can't flip the end of wood with a circular saw blade. Do you mean the Bob Chase method of flipping when doing thin strip cutting? Please explain?
No issue with using the narrower blade with your full-width riving knife or did you get a narrower knife?
Thanks for the video... i have a dewalt 7485 that use 8 1/4 blade, can i use a 7 1/4 blades on it?
Also with a smaller blade you can use them to make a more curved raised panels by sliding the piece 90 deg. across the table.
+Cliff Windgar Great tip Cliff
Bought a 6 1/2 Milwaukee 18 volt saw. WOW. The supplied blade appears to have the same configuration as Diablo combination 24 tooth less the red paint. I have been cutting 2x6 and 2x4 using straight cross cuts. They are unbelievably smooth and looked sanded. Also bought a two pack Diablo 24 tooth on sale at half price at the the big orange box store.
No reason to think these will not work even better on a table saw where the is more control.
sanded with 220 or better.
I have a Ridgid 4512 cast iron table saw and have used the Diablo 7&1/4 inch blade to rip but the Irving knife is too thick and the piece stops and can’t be forced through . I even ground the leading edge of the roving knife a bit but that didn’t work either. I am always fearful of kick back. Colin do you or any of your subscribers know if there is a riving knife available through an after market supplier? I have enjoyed your web site for years but just recently subscribed. Keep up the good work. Thanks Paul White
Good video Colin. I use these cheap blades all the time on my table saw especially for rough cuts on rough sawn lumber that may have some dirt or grit on it that is difficult to remove. As you mentioned, why risk trashing a high dollar blade? A five pack of these blades (DeWalt) are less than $40.at the big box stores.
I made a rough dado blade using EDPM rubber spacers. Worked great! Again, why trash a high dollar blade?
I have done the dado thing in the past too, thanks for the reminder on that, others will learn now too
One issue that can occur on some table saws is that the 7.25" blade might be thinner than your riving knife, so be aware.
Thats what i was worried about , my saw has a 7 1/4 blade in now and i have the knife all the way out because it sticks out a bit all the way down. There is a good size gap in between the riving kinife and the blade , should i just take it out and put in a 10"?
That's right. Good point and most don't catch that. I just remove the riving knife.
The riving knife also will be too high for non through cuts
My 8" table saw is so old it doesn't have a riving knife
@@Mr_Rick any issues with kickback without a riving knife?
Thanks for the video,I’m just getting started into wood working and there’s so much to learn, just wondering is there any danger in doing this?
They are Micro Jiggs micro splitters...work great fir keeping the kerf from binding.
As people have pointed out, you missed two very important facts about these blades. The riving knife being too thick and the increased power from the motor, since it doesn't have to sling wood from 5" out any more. I use smaller blades to increase the cutting ability of my underpowered saw.
I have a rough table saw that I do this on sometimes. I've noticed the very thin kerf 7.25 blades can wander on larger pieces.
Yes you are correct, they can, especially the older blades, there is a new blade out now that apparently is better or has solved this with a slightly different tooth design, something they call their "Track Point", which I have not had a chance to test .. but yes, the thinner blades can wander a bit.
Thanks for the comment ... must see what I can do about testing out that new blade
Thanks. I'll have to try the Track Point.
Yes the Diablo Demo Demon has the Trackpoint. It is what I came here to see if I could use on table and chop saw. Going to try it!
Note that there is a *60 tooth* blade in this size and brand as well. I have one in the B&D circular saw.
does it change the quality of the cut if you tape the wood then cut it? ive seen cleaner cuts by taping the wood to prevent the edge from blowing out.
Yes it does, depending on the type of wood and the cut. Masking tape is a cheap investment for making better cuts.
Thank you!
Colin you said that the circular saw blade was much thinner than your 10" How do you deal with the splitter on your TS? If the splitter is thicker than the kerf cut by your blade doesn't that present a problem?
My splitter is pretty thin and I had to go and look at it, yes it is slighly thicker than the blade, but not enough to make a difference that I can detect. The main point is that the splitter is even with the blade on the fence side so the push out is on the outboard so really doesn't make a diff out there .. but good point, appreciate you comment
Interesting, my splitter says that it should handle the thin kirf, but when I tried it seemed to bind, so I stopped immediately. But I think I had it aligned quite center of the blade. Maybe I will try more to the fence side. Thanks for the response.
You can always add spacer that comes along with your dado set to push the blade out a bit to align with your splitter.
Also interesting, but here in Thailand, most saws are made with an arbor that does not allow a dado set. But maybe I can get some of the spacers and give it a try. Thanks.
What about combination blades. I use the 10" version most of the time. I hate changing blades as I probably could plan out my work better but don't. I don't use a lot of hardwood so maybe that is why it seems to work for me. Also I use stabilizers with my blades. Do you need them on smaller blades because if so it would really reduce the max cut depth. I'm interested to hear your thoughts. Maybe I need to relook at my whole blade strategy.
There are many woodworkers like yourself who don't like changing blades or their saws are harder to change blades, so if what you are doing is working for you, keep on doing that. Just because I share something like this doesn't mean people should do it, only that it's an option for them. The 10" Freud blades will not need blade stiffeners, other brands might if they are vibrating, which some do.
You are correct Jack, using stiffeners on the smaller blades would defeat getting much of a depth of cut. Sounds like you are fine with the methods you are using, glad you commented, gives me a chance to help clarify. Thanks for taking the time.
great video, thanks for posting. Can you use a 10" blade in a 7 1/4 chop saw?
No
Can you put a few blades in to make a diy dado stack? I have a good dado stack, but want to cut dadoes under 1/4”.
Uh that's just called a regular blade man.
what is the thickness of your riving knife? i am using a 7 1/4 blade but my thin knife is still too thick... wondering if i should make my own?
Use a shotout blade cut it down with an angle grinder.
Yes....Colin....what thickness is your splitter? I use 7 1/4 cs blades when I cut pallet wood with nails....and I've had to make a thinner make-shift splitter. Would prefer to use a factory made thin kerf splitter but can't find one that fits my saw. Any suggestions. Talking about thin kerf splitters would be a good follow up video to this video. ...especially when people realize their splitters are too thick to use circular saw blades safely.
Oh Yeah, the splitter, not sure the thickness, but still thinner than the circ saw blades, but they must be close in size. Good point, thanks for the note on that.
The Freud demo demon is around 0.070 - 0.075” if I recall correctly, the framing has smaller teeth but is slightly wider maybe .003-.005 ish? You may get away with using one side of a small L bracket from Homeless Despot as a metal splitter (may want to sand it down a hint and to flat). Don’t ask how I know lol.
The people need to know!
My Dewalt manual says the included riving knife is 2.3mm which is the same as the kerf specification for the 190mm blades my circular saw takes. The 250mm blades indicate the kerf is 3mm.
I think you still need to use a washer with the 7 1/4 blade with 10" table saw, because the 10" blade is a little more thick than the 7 1/4 blade plus you have to take out your riving knife
How about a higher tooth count and using painters tape for reduced tear out?
My table saw comes with a riving knife. Since 7 1/4 inch thin kerf circular saw blade is usually much thinner than a 10 inch table saw blade, how can I get away with the riving knife compatibility issue?
You need to make a close tolerance throat plate AND glue in a splitter that is the same thickness at the teeth on the blade for which to throat plate is made. Don't forget to sand the leading edge of the splitter thin so it will spread the wood if it tries to pinch closed.
I think the other advantage of using the circular saw blade in the table saw is that the load on the motor will probably be lower and it will maintain a close to free speed rpm without bogging down....that could help prevent burning of the wood too.
Great point Cliffe, thanks for commenting and reminding me of this
It should also be noted the the smaller diameter blade will have a slower tooth cutting speed. A 10 inch blade will have a much higher tooth cutting speed for a given rpm
I had an older 1950s 9" Delta/Rockwell table saw/jointer combo with a 15 amp. motor that I used Tenryu 8" blades on that were fantastic, though they did cost about $25 each. When I had a lot of 2x4s to rip I put in a freud 18T 7-1/4"; on lesser powered saws smaller diameter, thinner blades really make a difference. Why would this be so, because the 7-1.4" blade has 7/8" less leverage working against the arbor. It's a trade off that only works if you have less power than you need, you get less rim speed but your saw doesn't bog down; and like the video tells us, the blades are much thinner, as thin as .059".
Thanks for the note Ed ... Yes, I think you answered the question, smaller blades, and slightly thinner would make for an easier path through the wood. Thanks Buddy ... good to hear your experience, we all learn.
Colin can I use a 12" blade on my table saw, it came with a 10" blade. Love your channel.
God Bless my friend.
Probably not Frank, any table saw I have ever seen that comes with a 10 inch blade, that will be the biggest it will take.
Unlikely a 12" will fit the housing/riving knife. Even if you can somehow fit a 12" for ripping, your 12" is likely designed to cross cut. Unlikely this is the case, but you may also want to check the max RMP allowed. Why would you possibly want to use a 12" for a table saw? Maybe a bandsaw makes more sense?
12s have a 1 inch arbor and usually wouldn't fit very far through the opening anyway.
What if you used a zero clearance insert? Should be less tear out.
I'm assume Colin didn't change the insert when he switched from the 10" blade to the 7-1/4" which does have a thinner kerf. A dedicated insert for the 7-1/4" should reduce the bottom tear out.
Wouldn't the tip speed be greatly increased? Could you use a in line speed control like is normally used on a router?
I bought it old craftsman dado blade for a circular saw, I was wondering if I could use it on a table saw.
A dado blade is for use on a table saw (if we are talking about the same thing) ... I have never heard of a dado blade that would fit on a circular saw but their could be one ... if there was, I would never use a dado blade on a circular saw, just too dangerous because there is so much back-pressure from all the blades cutting into the wood, it would be very hard to handle with out kicking back.
Years ago we had a couple of hundred 1-1/2" x 3" notches to make in the top of a 4" x 16" rough beams. We cut the sides using a regular combo 7-14" HSS blade and hogged out the middle after using a kerf-set tool to widen the kerf to 1/4", it worked beautifully and was much faster. Those older Skil 77 saws weigh about 13 pounds so kick-back was not an issue. Never tried it with a sidewinder.
If your saw has a riving knife, it is likely thicker than ultra thin hand aw blade. Dangerous.
The knife itself shouldn't be dangerous. Having a wider splitting edge than the blade could mean the piece may bind at the fence instead of passing through. This possible bind would be between the fence and the splitter (knife) , not the actual blade. Just turn the saw off. The opposing side may get forced out a bit if the splitter is wider there, but shouldn't be anything serious, the flex in the wood should make the issue moot. The only real danger that I see is the kickback before the piece has had a chance to hit the riving knife. But having such a small kerf means this is much less of a serious issue.
Since the 7 1/4 blade is thinner and the riving knife is thicker wouldn’t you get kick backs when cutting???
Bob Chase did a video a few years back called taming your table saw
Yep. He is very correct in stating the lack of the necessity to have such a large blade. Chase seems more of a productions cabinet maker. You can tell he really thinks about cost vs quality, striking a good balance between the two. That old man is a guru. I really like Collin, thought I think he employs a bit more machinery. There are some other guys producing great products here, but they are using $100K tooling to do it. I've always felt the lack of necessity to have the 10" blade, especially on a job site saw (what I like and use). You can't really rip a nominal 4", not that you should or would want to in one pass. The good diablo blades are also hopelessly expensive even on sale. You often wonder whether to sharpen a 35 dollar diablo ripping blade or get a new one. 7 1/4 will let you rip 2" nominal, anything more, you should have alternative means of processing (or flip it over I guess).
Sorry Colin those wont work on my 12 inch Dara James table saw the arbor is 7/8 inch!
I got given a really old Pro-Tech circular saw that doesn't even have a place for a riving knife. The thing is old. I'm over here not realizing there was ever a difference. I've just been going to the hardware store and buying blades that work in both the table saw and a chop-saw.
Eventually I need to find a way to mod-on a riving knife.
I like the idea of being able to use the 7 1/4" saw blade in the table saw and I was wondering is you can use the 7 1/4"blade in a Compound Miter saw?
That would be dangerous.
What about using a 6 1/2 inch diablo blade?
If you use blade stiffeners when cutting plywood you will get far less movements and much better results with your cut. Try using 6 inch stiffeners when cutting quarter inch thick ply or Any thin material. Skip the 40 tooth and go to 60 tooth you will love the results. There are times of the year that HOME DEPOT promotes two for one sales stock up.
I didnt know my saw was 12". It was my grandpas and i never paid attention to it. A 7 1/4 will fit but the deepest cut I could get was 1 1/8". I may go from 12 to 10 on mine.
Just incase anyone thought about 12 to 7 1/4
Would there be any reason not to make a zero clearance insert? I don't have a table saw yet so I can't go out and compare the thickness of my circular saw blade to anything but a hand saw or tree saw. (Yeah, not gonna do that.)
There would not be any reason to not make a zero clearance insert ... on the other hand, there may also not be a reason to make one, it really depends on the blade you are using what wood you are cutting, in most cases all a zero clearance insert does is help prevent tear-out in the bottom of the wood, but as you can see, with modern blades, that really isn't much of a problem any more. The other reason to make an insert is if you are using dado blades of different widths, sometimes it safer to have different insert widths. Good question Jay ... thanks for this.
Forget replacing to a thinner rifing knife find these after market splitter shims .
You can get just as thin a cut using a full kerf blade
With the melamine you need three passes first pass set blade height to 2 mm. second turned the work please over using the same height 2 mm third raise the blade To the over all thickness -4 mm. Hth
is there less or more pressure on the saw bearings? i say less !
because there is less saw teeth in the wood, at any one time= diameter and kerf
That's a good question ... I think I would say less also, but in the end, for part usage that most of us would give a table saw, it's petty small. In the past I worked with big industrial table saws that went through tons and tons of wood being cut on them for years, and I don't recall ever having to replace a bearing so they are pretty strong.
Been doing it for many years now. Sorry for those with a SawStop this trick won't work, because you cant get the blade close enought to the brake!
Now that's a good point ... thanks for bringing this up, I have worked on Sawstops, but as you know don't own one so don't always think of that ... appreciate your comment buddy
Will the SawStop not run at all or is it the SawStop will run but the breaking mechanism won’t stop a blade it can’t reach?
Only problem is I'm thinking the riving knife won't do much
I believe it is great you kept the blade guard and pawls on the saw for these demonstrations. I cannot, for the life of me, understand that removal has become a standard practice on TH-cam and PBS for purposes of visibility. It sets a bad example. If you have used a table saw in your personal experience you know what a blade driving through wood or plastic looks like. Keep up the new movement in woodworking safety.
7-1/4" blades for laminate flooring are soooooooo much cheaper than the 10" blades. Since it's laminate the cutting depth due to smaller diameter is not a problem
Thanks for the tip and thanks for watching!
Diablo blades are made in Italy. That means High Quality.
Remember that the speed of the blade will be slower with the smaller diameter. You keep the same rpm but the speed increases with the larger diameter.
You are correct. When using a smaller blade, the circumference is decreased by approximately 1/3rd. This equates to a loss of around 1,000" of blade going through the material per second. (Okay, I was bored and figured this out.)
Paul Goess thanks for doing the math. I was too tired and was just hoping I could explain it so people would understand.
Kevin Youngblut .... you are correct. It's less inches per revolution of cutting ability, but in a lower powered saw, that might be a positive thing if your motor is bogging down. It's less load on low powered saws.
135 Pilot you're correct. It should be a positive since it's sess material to hog down since it's thin kerf.
Yes, true. You also double the power of the saw since the 7 1/4" is three quarts the size, plus the thickness is about half, less teeth, and larger gullets, makes it a great way ro rip thru hard woods like Ash Oak Maple Spruce Hickory etc etc. I've used them before, i like the way they perform.
I buy the Diablo 50 tooth combo blades for the tablsaw, and with some of my 80 tooth I took four 10" 80 tooth blades and turned them into 40 tooth and one 30 tooth blades, keeping the left and right angle teeth, and added one rake tooth for a square cut. This blade modification didn't turn out so great. They cut ok, but they are jumpy, even though cut is smooth, I don't recommend doing this unless you're going to rip down rough cut lumber. You'll feel how unstable it is when cutting 1/4" thick stock.
I thought this might be interesting to someone if they have 80 tooth blades, and want to rip with them.
Keep them as 80 tooth, and cut a little slower. Cheers!
Nice video.
Why dont you try to make a zero clearance insert to have more accurate results?
looking forward to see that
Good question George, a zero clearance insert, in most cases is only designed to help reduce wood tear-out in the bottom of the wood being cut, but as you can see with modern blades, in most cases there is little tear out worry, which was not the case many years ago when all we had were steel blades that gave quite a bit rougher cuts. With the old steel blades, zero clearance inserts made a significant difference. A zero clearance insert can't hurt anything but sometimes it does little or nothing to improve things either ... really depends on blade and what is being cut.
For some cuts especially the melamine a little bit of masking tape goes a long way.
Yes, masking tape can be a lot of help at times! Thanks for watching.
I've been doing this for a long time in my job site table saw. Keeps me from having to carry multiple blades in the trailer.
That's a good reason ... makes sense, thanks for the tip
I have a DeWalt DWE7480 portable. You're saying this is relatively safe? The riving knife will function properly with a smaller blade?
Purple heart cheep where i am living
My circular saw is a skilsaw and the hole on the blade is not round, it's shaped like two pyramids base to base (there's probably a name for this but I'm not aware of it), so I guess I'm out of luck for being able to use this method
I think the only circ saw around now that still has that option of the diamond shank, is the Skilsaw brand, and I believe they still have it as an option. There are very few blades anymore that have the diamond stamp in the middle that you can knock out to use on Skilsaws, but Freud Diablo is one that does. These blades come with the round arbor hole and the diamond knock-out. So in you case, you could still use circ blades in your table saw but they would not be interchangeable with our Skilsaw. Good point on this, I will try to remember to talk about this if I do a future update. Thanks Sam
Shucks I have lots of 7 1/2 inch blades for my skilsaw, but my go to saw is definitely my tablesaw is not like I'm in love with it, okay I am in love, it's just so functional with the tablesaw sled I've made and the Incra miter sled I have. I guess I could just buy some 7 1/2 inch blades and use them on the tablesaw? Thanks great video.
Sam Biscits I would refer to it as diamond shaped.
Those thin kerf blades warp too easily. A full size table saw blade makes a straighter cut.
As I mentioned in the video, yes if you push too hard, or in some case if fence in not quite aligned, or both, the thinner blades can warp, they are not a solution for everything, just another option that works for some occasions.
The melamine isn’t ripped. All cuts are the same as there isn’t any strand orientation
I have two different plywood blades with fine teeth and they are both terrible. I don't get it. I don't even bother to use them anymore'
Blade body is not flat. Blade is too thin and warps.