Thanks for your comment. We would be happy to help if you are in our service area, contact us at this link and we can discuss: www.improovy.com/?ff_landing=83 Here are our current service locations: www.improovy.com/locations/
I put two good coats on my solid stain deck after taking a drum sander to it. I did some spots but I did not do all of the railings because they really didn’t need it. Plus the extra work would’ve just been too much of a hassle.
This is the first time I have remodeled my deck and I have already finished the most difficult part of sanding it and I had not seen the video until today and I did exactly the same steps and I thought about renting a floor sander but they are very heavy and expensive and I bought a 5 orbital And I found it very useful and I sanded everything without any problem. My concern was that the sander would overheat.
This is my deck to the tee! Blue trim and white deck boards. My paint job is peeling terribly at one end from the snow and ice from rare winter storm we had two years ago and from direct mid day full on sun. The other end is fine but I'm tired of looking at the peeling end. Thanks for your tips. I'm looking forward to my project.
So glad the video is helpful for you! If you have any questions while you start your project, feel free to comment here and we are happy to answer and help if possible. All the best with your project!
This is the video I needed to see because my porch deck is the same just about. Ive been looking looking for what to do about peeling paint . Do i need to sand it all off or just where its peeling and then sand it smooth? Your video has answered my questions , thank you so much!
Glad the video helped! As you mentioned, scraping the peeling paint and sanding to feather the areas where the paint was removed and where it is still sound is best. We also like to quickly scuff sand the areas where the existing paint is sound (not peeling) to help create adhesion of the new top coat. All the best with your project and thanks for watching and commenting!
Thanks for commenting. You are right, it hard to keep decks looking good for very long. Expected life span of semi-transparent deck coatings is 18-24 months and expected life of a solid color deck coating is typically 24-48 months before it is recommended additional maintenance be performed. The exposure on the surface of decks is definitely hard on the coatings.
Do not use a pressure washer!! It tears up the grain on a wooden deck. Go straight to the sanding part. Like the video, feather the edges of all of the old paint and be sure to scrape all the loose paint. PRIME YOU DECK. Use Zinser 123 primer and then put your top coat on.
@@davidkugler1376 Thanks for your thoughts. We should have been more clear regarding the pressure washing. It was used at a distance of 18”+ and more of a tool to rinse away dirt, dust and grime. You are absolutely right about it tearing up the grain, if you get too close. Staying at a safe distance away and understanding what can happen if using the tool in the wrong way is definitely important to note and we appreciate you saying something. We will definitely have to share in a future video. Primer can help in some circumstances, however it isn’t always necessary depending on the topcoat being used and the type of substrate. Thanks again for commenting and sharing your knowledge 👍
Nice job! So you did a solid water based stain over a painted deck? I thought you would have to get rid of all the paint before staining. Gives me some hope for my deck!
Hi, thanks for your comment! Yes, if a deck has a porch and floor paint, using a solid color stain over the top is okay to do as long as the existing surface is sound. You will want to do similar steps we show here to make sure to remove all loose and peeling product first. Sanding all surfaces will be required as well. This helps with adhesion. Best to of luck with your deck refinishing when you decide to re-coat it!
Thanks for the video, subscribes! Never striped and prepared a a deck before from start to finish. I had a couple questions 1- what sander do you use and I’m assuming it has a some kind of vac and bag to collect the paint dust? 2- why don’t you sand all the paint off before first coat? I guess I was always under the impression it should be removed completely? Along with that, do you sand between the cracks? Thanks!
We like the Festool brand sanders because they do connect to an extractor to help control the dust, however the extractor isn't absolutely necessary outside. As long as the existing finish is sound, not all of the existing stain/paint has to be removed. This would only be the case if you wanted to use a transparent or semi-transparent stain.
Great job! I just finished sanding down my deck, removing old solid stain. Is a water-based stain better to use than an oil base stain? Would oil penetrate better? I have used a water based in the past, but never oil. Also, what type of roller did you use that's best for deck surfaces? It really came out nice with a roller. Sometimes brushes leave the brush marks.
If you are going with a solid color stain again, we recommend water based solid color stain over oil. It is easier to apply and with todays technology adheres really well, especially if you have prepped properly. However, if you are going with a semi-transparent or transparent stain, we recommend oil-based. It does absorb better and is easier to maintain in the future. Semi-Transparent Oil is easier to re-apply over existing oil in the future, however semi-transparent water based tend to be more difficult on maintenance coats. Hope that helps and good luck with your project!
In terms of roller, a good quality 7 inch, 9 inch roller size usually work well. Smaller are okay as well depending on size of deck. We like 1/2” or 9/16” thickness best.
@@improovy Thanks you so much for responding & your tips. As for the roller, I meant what type to use is best to stain a deck, a foam roller, microfiber, etc?. One for a water-based stain? One for an oil base? Thanks again.
Sorry about misunderstanding. I recommend using a 4” stain brush for oil based stains, it works best for proper application and working it into the boards. For water based solid color stains, I like either microfiber similar to this one from Arroworthy (www.arroworthy.com/rollers_microfiber/) or one from Purdy such as this one (www.purdy.com/en/products/rollers/marathon)
Sorry for our delayed response. Yes, you want to paint the railings first. That way if you accidentally drip, you don't have to worry about dripping on the freshly painted decking boards.
An orbital sander has a little more flexibility, especially if the boards are cupped at all. I recommend trying both and go with whichever works the best. It may make sense to use both. Not sure what you mean by the beams? Do you mean between the boards or between the spindles/posts? If between the railing spindles, they make angled or triangle sanders that work well for tighter spaces.
@@improovy boards / beams, tomato / tomato 🤗it was the word that came to my head at the time lol I got lucky and the last person didn't even stain in between lol smh but thanks for the advice next time I might not be so lucky
Correct. It is a solid color deck stain. It looks like paint, but is considered a stain. It is called SuperDeck by Sherwin Williams. More info in the video description.
If the old coating was latex paint instead of solid stain, can you still use solid stain on top of it? I'm planning on using a sold stain on a fence that has old cracked and peeling latex paint on it and would love to know if I'm about to screw it all up.
@@rabooey I have found the solid color stain stick well to many different coatings. Many manufacturers even recommend it to adhere to old composite decking material. I find the Benjamin Moore Arborcoat to stick the best out of all available, but think the SuoerDeck and other solid color stain products to be very similar. As long as you prep/clean the surface well and remove all the loose existing material, you should get great adhesion.
The blue color will have faded and there is a chance there will be some wear on the stairs from foot traffic. It will show more wear if in area with snow and you use a shovel on the surface of the stairs and decking boards. We also recommend staying away from applying salt to wood deck surfaces as this can prematurely damage the stained surface.
We liked the color as well! That’s odd it wouldn’t come up when you searched for it. Here is a link to the color, hopefully it comes up for you. www.sherwin-williams.com/en-us/color/color-family/blue-paint-colors/SW6243-distance
I’m going re-stain my deck but can’t I just use a power washer to get the small layer of mold off and then stain it? Do I absolutely have to sand it too?
I don’t think sanding is necessary if you’re going to power wash it. But it will create a new look I think or atleast a better look and smoother finish
call me crazy but how is this stain??? i thought deck stain absorbed into the wood and deck paint sits on top. please correct me if I am wrong. I am trying to learn which to choose for our project and now more confused than ever.
There are a few different types of decking stains. The stain you are thinking about that absorbs into the decking boards is an oil based transparent or semi-transparent stain. This allows you to see the wood grain through the stain and enhances the wood grain/natural look of the wood. As decks get older, many people switch to a solid color stain (as seen here in the video). The solid color stain still allows the wood of the deck to breathe, but is opaque (similar to paint) but doesn't create as thick of a film on top of the wood. It can definitely get confusing when it comes to the difference between solid color stain and paint products, you are not alone!
Sorry for the delayed response. Correct, you do not have to remove all the old stain. As long as it is clean, sound and sanded you are good to coat over the top of the existing.
Thanks for your question. The solid color stain we used is the topcoat and protective coating. It has similar qualities to paint, but allows the wood to breath differently than film building paint products. This is the product we used and the product information/description will help provide additional information: www.sherwin-williams.com/homeowners/products/superdeck-exterior-waterborne-solid-color-deck-stain
Sorry for the delayed response. If the boards are pressure treated, it is ideal to make sure they are dried out before staining or applying product. We recommend waiting until the wood is between 15-18% moisture content. In some cases if the treated boards have tannins bleeding through, they may require an oil based primer to seal it in, especially if going with a lighter color stain. Otherwise, if needed you can prime with an oil based primer and then apply the water based solid color stain over the top without any issues.
@@sekritskworl-sekrit_studios Yes, typically the standard soft pad works well. It provides a little extra give around the rough edges. The hard pad can also work well. I suggest trying both depending on the surface and circumstances.
Yes, a sprayer will work. However, we still like to back brush and/or roll to work product into boards and ensure proper/even coverage. I believe a sprayer is a great way to get product to the surface, but taking the extra step as mentioned above with a brush/roller is very beneficial on deck surfaces, especially older wood.
Great question! We don’t recommend filling cracks in horizontal wood decking boards. Due to expansion and contraction and the elements decks are subjected to the filler never lasts. If the crack in a board is that bad we recommend replacing the board. If the cracks aren’t that bad we make sure we sand so there are no rough or sharp edges and then make sure we coat the area extra well with the stain to make sure it is sealed well.
On this project we used Sherwin Williams SuperDeck Waterborne Solid Color Stain. Here is a link to the product on their website: www.sherwin-williams.com/homeowners/products/superdeck-exterior-waterborne-solid-color-deck-stain
We typically sand with 80 grit sand paper. We find this works well for removal and feathering, but doesn’t leave swirl marks or require a step down to a higher grit.
When you say probably followed by just a fact. DOES NOT MAKE IT A FACT.. some people have free time but not alot of money. And would rather do it this way. Especially if your going to sell your property
Good question. For spindles and railings, yes. We don’t usually use a sprayer on the decking boards. If using a sprayer on the decking, I would recommend back rolling or brushing to work the stain into the boards. Aged decking boards have lots of cracks and grooves that can be missed if just applying material with a sprayer alone.
On deck surfaces using solid color stain, primer isn’t necessary. In this instance we could have used a primer such as Mad Dog Deck Fix which is still breathable, but sanding was more than enough to create great adhesion of the new solid stain. Usually paint and primer in one is more of a marketing gimmick by paint manufacturers. We typically will recommend and use a primer on new surfaces when required before applying top coat products. Paint and primer in one products are meant for going over previously coated surfaces. Deck surfaces still need to breathe, so priming isn’t ideal unless there are tannin issues to address (usually experienced with lighter colors). Hope that answers your question.
I need help...I'm not painting my porch floor, just the railing...my existing color is what i call brick red...but I want brown. Should I use primer or just the brown paint
![[ TEASER ] เงาะป่า - วงL.กฮ. | TMG RECORD](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/M4ObdFfcPww/mqdefault.jpg)
Thanks - this makes the job straightforward and do-able!
Definitely need this my railings, oh yeah and my house :)
Thanks for your comment. We would be happy to help if you are in our service area, contact us at this link and we can discuss: www.improovy.com/?ff_landing=83
Here are our current service locations: www.improovy.com/locations/
I put two good coats on my solid stain deck after taking a drum sander to it. I did some spots but I did not do all of the railings because they really didn’t need it. Plus the extra work would’ve just been too much of a hassle.
This is the first time I have remodeled my deck and I have already finished the most difficult part of sanding it and I had not seen the video until today and I did exactly the same steps and I thought about renting a floor sander but they are very heavy and expensive and I bought a 5 orbital And I found it very useful and I sanded everything without any problem. My concern was that the sander would overheat.
looks great! thanks for the easy to follow video
This is my deck to the tee! Blue trim and white deck boards. My paint job is peeling terribly at one end from the snow and ice from rare winter storm we had two years ago and from direct mid day full on sun. The other end is fine but I'm tired of looking at the peeling end. Thanks for your tips. I'm looking forward to my project.
So glad the video is helpful for you! If you have any questions while you start your project, feel free to comment here and we are happy to answer and help if possible. All the best with your project!
@@improovy thank you kindly!!
Thank you. Very helpful!
Glad this could be helpful! Thanks for your comment!
This is the video I needed to see because my porch deck is the same just about. Ive been looking looking for what to do about peeling paint . Do i need to sand it all off or just where its peeling and then sand it smooth? Your video has answered my questions , thank you so much!
Glad the video helped! As you mentioned, scraping the peeling paint and sanding to feather the areas where the paint was removed and where it is still sound is best. We also like to quickly scuff sand the areas where the existing paint is sound (not peeling) to help create adhesion of the new top coat. All the best with your project and thanks for watching and commenting!
Please post a video after 1 or 2 years later, that'll be a good one.
Thanks for commenting. You are right, it hard to keep decks looking good for very long. Expected life span of semi-transparent deck coatings is 18-24 months and expected life of a solid color deck coating is typically 24-48 months before it is recommended additional maintenance be performed. The exposure on the surface of decks is definitely hard on the coatings.
Flap disk is the best way to
Do not use a pressure washer!! It tears up the grain on a wooden deck. Go straight to the sanding part. Like the video, feather the edges of all of the old paint and be sure to scrape all the loose paint. PRIME YOU DECK. Use Zinser 123 primer and then put your top coat on.
@@davidkugler1376 Thanks for your thoughts. We should have been more clear regarding the pressure washing. It was used at a distance of 18”+ and more of a tool to rinse away dirt, dust and grime. You are absolutely right about it tearing up the grain, if you get too close. Staying at a safe distance away and understanding what can happen if using the tool in the wrong way is definitely important to note and we appreciate you saying something. We will definitely have to share in a future video. Primer can help in some circumstances, however it isn’t always necessary depending on the topcoat being used and the type of substrate. Thanks again for commenting and sharing your knowledge 👍
Nice job! So you did a solid water based stain over a painted deck? I thought you would have to get rid of all the paint before staining. Gives me some hope for my deck!
Hi, thanks for your comment! Yes, if a deck has a porch and floor paint, using a solid color stain over the top is okay to do as long as the existing surface is sound. You will want to do similar steps we show here to make sure to remove all loose and peeling product first. Sanding all surfaces will be required as well. This helps with adhesion. Best to of luck with your deck refinishing when you decide to re-coat it!
Thanks for the video, subscribes! Never striped and prepared a a deck before from start to finish. I had a couple questions
1- what sander do you use and I’m assuming it has a some kind of vac and bag to collect the paint dust?
2- why don’t you sand all the paint off before first coat? I guess I was always under the impression it should be removed completely? Along with that, do you sand between the cracks?
Thanks!
Hello do you ever figure out? I am about to this many thanks
They used festool, a fancy brand.
We like the Festool brand sanders because they do connect to an extractor to help control the dust, however the extractor isn't absolutely necessary outside. As long as the existing finish is sound, not all of the existing stain/paint has to be removed. This would only be the case if you wanted to use a transparent or semi-transparent stain.
You need to get rid of all the old paint. Not good. They will chip after sometime
Great job! I just finished sanding down my deck, removing old solid stain. Is a water-based stain better to use than an oil base stain? Would oil penetrate better? I have used a water based in the past, but never oil. Also, what type of roller did you use that's best for deck surfaces? It really came out nice with a roller. Sometimes brushes leave the brush marks.
If you are going with a solid color stain again, we recommend water based solid color stain over oil. It is easier to apply and with todays technology adheres really well, especially if you have prepped properly. However, if you are going with a semi-transparent or transparent stain, we recommend oil-based. It does absorb better and is easier to maintain in the future. Semi-Transparent Oil is easier to re-apply over existing oil in the future, however semi-transparent water based tend to be more difficult on maintenance coats. Hope that helps and good luck with your project!
In terms of roller, a good quality 7 inch, 9 inch roller size usually work well. Smaller are okay as well depending on size of deck. We like 1/2” or 9/16” thickness best.
@@improovy Thanks you so much for responding & your tips. As for the roller, I meant what type to use is best to stain a deck, a foam roller, microfiber, etc?. One for a water-based stain? One for an oil base? Thanks again.
Sorry about misunderstanding. I recommend using a 4” stain brush for oil based stains, it works best for proper application and working it into the boards. For water based solid color stains, I like either microfiber similar to this one from Arroworthy (www.arroworthy.com/rollers_microfiber/) or one from Purdy such as this one (www.purdy.com/en/products/rollers/marathon)
@@improovy Thank you so much! You've been very helpful. 👍
Thank you for your great video! Today I am off to rent a sander. I am wondering when you painted the railings. Did you paint them first ?
Sorry for our delayed response. Yes, you want to paint the railings first. That way if you accidentally drip, you don't have to worry about dripping on the freshly painted decking boards.
Good God, man! Replace the screws!
Would you recommend an orbital sander over a belt sander? Also, how do you or do you sand between the beams?
An orbital sander has a little more flexibility, especially if the boards are cupped at all. I recommend trying both and go with whichever works the best. It may make sense to use both.
Not sure what you mean by the beams? Do you mean between the boards or between the spindles/posts? If between the railing spindles, they make angled or triangle sanders that work well for tighter spaces.
@@improovy boards / beams, tomato / tomato 🤗it was the word that came to my head at the time lol I got lucky and the last person didn't even stain in between lol smh but thanks for the advice next time I might not be so lucky
So the product you used is considered a stain and not a paint?
Correct. It is a solid color deck stain. It looks like paint, but is considered a stain. It is called SuperDeck by Sherwin Williams. More info in the video description.
@@improovy Oh interesting, I always thought stains were on the transparent side, didn't realize they could be so opaque! 👍
If the old coating was latex paint instead of solid stain, can you still use solid stain on top of it? I'm planning on using a sold stain on a fence that has old cracked and peeling latex paint on it and would love to know if I'm about to screw it all up.
@@rabooey I have found the solid color stain stick well to many different coatings. Many manufacturers even recommend it to adhere to old composite decking material. I find the Benjamin Moore Arborcoat to stick the best out of all available, but think the SuoerDeck and other solid color stain products to be very similar. As long as you prep/clean the surface well and remove all the loose existing material, you should get great adhesion.
@@improovy Thanks, that gives me a bit more confidence.
No priming on the bare wood parts?
not when using a solid stain
what does it look like next year ???
The blue color will have faded and there is a chance there will be some wear on the stairs from foot traffic. It will show more wear if in area with snow and you use a shovel on the surface of the stairs and decking boards. We also recommend staying away from applying salt to wood deck surfaces as this can prematurely damage the stained surface.
What paint or stain did u use ? I like the video and and the results looks amazing
Sorry for the delayed response. We used Sherwin Williams SuperDeck Solid Color Stain
I like the color, but couldn’t find #6243 Distance on SW website. Is there another number? Thanks!
We liked the color as well! That’s odd it wouldn’t come up when you searched for it. Here is a link to the color, hopefully it comes up for you.
www.sherwin-williams.com/en-us/color/color-family/blue-paint-colors/SW6243-distance
I’m going re-stain my deck but can’t I just use a power washer to get the small layer of mold off and then stain it? Do I absolutely have to sand it too?
I don’t think sanding is necessary if you’re going to power wash it. But it will create a new look I think or atleast a better look and smoother finish
Use 30 second cleaner
call me crazy but how is this stain??? i thought deck stain absorbed into the wood and deck paint sits on top. please correct me if I am wrong. I am trying to learn which to choose for our project and now more confused than ever.
There are a few different types of decking stains. The stain you are thinking about that absorbs into the decking boards is an oil based transparent or semi-transparent stain. This allows you to see the wood grain through the stain and enhances the wood grain/natural look of the wood. As decks get older, many people switch to a solid color stain (as seen here in the video). The solid color stain still allows the wood of the deck to breathe, but is opaque (similar to paint) but doesn't create as thick of a film on top of the wood. It can definitely get confusing when it comes to the difference between solid color stain and paint products, you are not alone!
Nice video but why not vacuum up the paint chips instead of spreading them out into the soil?
So you don't need to get all the old paint of, right? As long as it's sanded and cleaned?
Sorry for the delayed response. Correct, you do not have to remove all the old stain. As long as it is clean, sound and sanded you are good to coat over the top of the existing.
no paint after the staining?
Thanks for your question. The solid color stain we used is the topcoat and protective coating. It has similar qualities to paint, but allows the wood to breath differently than film building paint products. This is the product we used and the product information/description will help provide additional information: www.sherwin-williams.com/homeowners/products/superdeck-exterior-waterborne-solid-color-deck-stain
@@improovy thanks!
Should I use primer on new treated boards? Also I have some left over water based stain, can I use that over oil based primer? Thanks in advance.
Sorry for the delayed response. If the boards are pressure treated, it is ideal to make sure they are dried out before staining or applying product. We recommend waiting until the wood is between 15-18% moisture content. In some cases if the treated boards have tannins bleeding through, they may require an oil based primer to seal it in, especially if going with a lighter color stain. Otherwise, if needed you can prime with an oil based primer and then apply the water based solid color stain over the top without any issues.
After paint water based we can apply clear coat to protect the wood ?
Sorry for our very delayed response. A clear coat is not required with this type of solid color stain. Two coats of the product is sufficient.
do you use a backing pad on your festool for this?
@@sekritskworl-sekrit_studios Yes, typically the standard soft pad works well. It provides a little extra give around the rough edges. The hard pad can also work well. I suggest trying both depending on the surface and circumstances.
Will a sprayer work and get in between?
Yes, a sprayer will work. However, we still like to back brush and/or roll to work product into boards and ensure proper/even coverage.
I believe a sprayer is a great way to get product to the surface, but taking the extra step as mentioned above with a brush/roller is very beneficial on deck surfaces, especially older wood.
What color is that
Sherwin Williams 6243, Distance
Seems like you skipped a step, dealing with large, cracked boards. How did you fill those? BTW I always use Sherwin Williams for years solid stain.
Great question! We don’t recommend filling cracks in horizontal wood decking boards. Due to expansion and contraction and the elements decks are subjected to the filler never lasts. If the crack in a board is that bad we recommend replacing the board. If the cracks aren’t that bad we make sure we sand so there are no rough or sharp edges and then make sure we coat the area extra well with the stain to make sure it is sealed well.
Should I use primer on new treated boards? Also I have some left over water based stain, can I use that over oil based primer?
What nap roller plz
It will depend on your preference, but we usually like to use 1/2" roller naps on decks when applying solid color stain.
What brand of the solid stain did you use
On this project we used Sherwin Williams SuperDeck Waterborne Solid Color Stain. Here is a link to the product on their website: www.sherwin-williams.com/homeowners/products/superdeck-exterior-waterborne-solid-color-deck-stain
what grit do you sand with?
We typically sand with 80 grit sand paper. We find this works well for removal and feathering, but doesn’t leave swirl marks or require a step down to a higher grit.
In the time it would take to do this I could replace the entire deck top and rails. More money sure. But probably better spent. Just a fact.
When you say probably followed by just a fact. DOES NOT MAKE IT A FACT.. some people have free time but not alot of money. And would rather do it this way. Especially if your going to sell your property
well that was quite fast so i doubt it. especially that, what would be the point of replacing the wood to paint it blue afterwards?
Do you ever use a sprayer
Good question. For spindles and railings, yes. We don’t usually use a sprayer on the decking boards. If using a sprayer on the decking, I would recommend back rolling or brushing to work the stain into the boards. Aged decking boards have lots of cracks and grooves that can be missed if just applying material with a sprayer alone.
No primer? What are your thoughts on primer & paint/stain all in one?
On deck surfaces using solid color stain, primer isn’t necessary. In this instance we could have used a primer such as Mad Dog Deck Fix which is still breathable, but sanding was more than enough to create great adhesion of the new solid stain.
Usually paint and primer in one is more of a marketing gimmick by paint manufacturers. We typically will recommend and use a primer on new surfaces when required before applying top coat products. Paint and primer in one products are meant for going over previously coated surfaces. Deck surfaces still need to breathe, so priming isn’t ideal unless there are tannin issues to address (usually experienced with lighter colors). Hope that answers your question.
I need help...I'm not painting my porch floor, just the railing...my existing color is what i call brick red...but I want brown. Should I use primer or just the brown paint