I have a proving rod in my shop. With the action closed, I just drop it in the barrel till it rests on the breechface. If I see any of it sticking out the gun is illegal. If you are concerned, get a second opinion. I have experienced only a couple of illegal guns in my time. Two at pawn shops, one was on a guy's shoulder that walked by me at a gun show. Had my buddy watch the table and I tracked the guy down with a measuring tape. The guy at the gun show freaked out, took the barrel off, and sold it to somebody at the show. Can't do that with your gun. The pawn shop was one that I did work for. Their inexperienced clerks had bought them.
Hey buddy, the easiest way to cut a plain barrel is to use a pipe cutter. If you cut slowly and take your time it comes out perfectly straight. Chamfer it and your good.
Well, with a hacksaw and a miter box, I get square cuts without bending the barrel in. I've got a bit of experience cutting pipe and cutting shotgun barrels. Also... please explain to me how to cut a vent-rib barrel with a pipe cutter.
@@RyeOnHam . You should use the method your most comfortable with. I have only done this once but in my experance with a hacksaw, on other things I just can't get straight cuts. I was happy with the results I got from a pipe cutter, it was way easyer than I thought it would be. But then I wasn't doing it to sell. I would have left them alone the way they were to sell and let the buyer customize to their own perference. I went slowly, taking plenty of time in incriments It didn't bend the barrel in, All I had to do was use a drill and cone shaped rasp to get a clean factory look. The outside came out perfect and needed no filing. But even with the pipe cutter, it tends to want to walk until you get a nice groove started. If I did it again I would workshop ways to prevent that, maybe by sanding to take off the smooth slippery finish.
Thanks for video. I bought a pretty nice hi-standard 20 gauge today (Dec 2015) for $125 with 5 boxes older issue shells. Am very interested in cutting it down for home defense. Your videos will help.
I am retired, so I make a few trips around pawn shops a week and have people call me. Most of the time, you'll never see the guns. Persistence helps, but some if it is just dumb luck.
I wanted to see how u add the sight bead on the shortened barrel & did you reuse the same bead from the piece you cut off?? Ty & I appreciate the video
When I filmed these, I didn't have a good filming setup at my drill press. Since then, TH-cam has said we can't show gunsmithing. Anyway, for vent-rib barrels, I eyeball the center of the rib, drill a hole right behind the front standoff, and run a tap through it and debur the back side with flat tip of a needle file. Triple-check that everything is square to the receiver. For the round barrels, I have a V-Block from Harbor Freight they call the, "Self-Centering Drill Press Jig". Put a 1/4" or bigger bit in your drill press and run it down onto the jig to center the jig, then clamp it down. Change the drill bit to the right size for your tap. Drill the hole about 1/4" behind the muzzle. Do NOT debur the hole yet. Tap the hole. Put the bead on. I prefer Brass beads as they grind slower. Run a dremmel with a grinding stone CAREFULLY till you start seeing sparks. Feel to see if it matches the inside contour. Once you're satisfied, run a fine craytex polishing bob of the right size over the area till the polish matches that of the barrel. Brownells sells bead kits. I prefer 6-48 holes for ribs and 3-56 holes for drilling through the barrel. Brownells also sells installation tools for the beads. It's a little pin vise that clamps on the bead and lets you thread it in. A dab of red locktite helps keep it in there. If some of the instructions don't make sense or you don't have the proper tools, you may not have the aptitude to do this job. I learned by trial and error, but it helps to be selling half a dozen chopped shotguns a weekend so you have lots to trial-and-error. To be fair, I always use the smaller threaded beads on the round barrels and cut them 1/2" long so I have two or three opportunities to fail. I can't remember ever having to recut the barrel, tough maybe one or two where I had to drill out for 6-48 after the threading didn't feel right.
Newer models have a disconnector that doesn’t allow slam fire. Mine doesn’t either and to be honest I’m kinda glade. Everything I hear is that slam firing is just asking for an out of battery detonation especially as age and wear take hold and parts get larger and larger tolerances.
how did you get that chock apart. I bought my 12...44 years ago, sold it to my uncle 44 years ago and bought it back last week. I can't budge that chock. may have to cut the barrel , and put a newer on. it's a sears and roebuck power pack, but it says short range. I need long range for deer or elk. I work n guns for myself and people all the time but lord this chock isn't budging. I really hate to chop the barrel. tried everything.
Two methods I find usually work well are soaking and heat. I would try soaking it in a penetrating oil (Break Free) first. Use a rubber strap wrench to try to get a grip on the choke tube. DO NOT USE VICE GRIPS. If that doesn't work, heat it up. You can use a heat gun or hairdryer. If you use a torch, it can hurt your finish, so I would not suggest that. You can also try cold. Plunge the end in ice-water or pack it in Dry Ice if that's an option. If all else fails, you can take it to any gunsmith. They have special stuck choke-tube tools that are basically a collet which goes down the bore and expands to grab the choke tube. Once it comes out, take a wire brush to the threads and install it with some choke tube lube or a good anti-seize grease. I use white lithium based stuff.
going to be heat, allready tried the rest..lol..well its been on it for 44 years. separation anxiety..thanks alot appreciated..what's your price for one of yours.
Robert Pingley To sell? I sold the three in this video. I buy them when I see a good (or beat-up) used one and end up selling most. I have a High Standard Flite King right now, but it's not for sale at the moment. I also don't talk prices or sales on the intertube for fear of being banned. Facebook and TH-cam both frown on selling guns on their sites.
That's cool , I understand. I'm going to pick up a couple more of these if mine has gone through a total 46 years between me and my uncle and that's every season he used it, they are more durable than my 870 was.
I have skewed results as I have had several broken High Standards including one I featured in another video. My repairs on 870s over the years have been limited mostly to extractors and shell latches. A handful of adjustments here and there and a few reassembly jobs when people took too much apart and/or lost parts.
I am not familiar with the barrel on that gun. It depends how the rib is attached to the barrel. As for what type of ammo to use, it mostly depends on your situation. Any shot from #4 buckshot to #00 is fine, unless you have wide open spaces and expect to take shots at longer distances, in which case you should consider Foster slugs. I would only cut down the barrel if you do not intend to use it for hunting small game and birds again, as an open choke is only good for slugs and buckshot in most hunting situations.
+farmboy The JC Higgins Model 20 has a magazine system that would probably lend itself to an extended magazine tube, however it would have to be a custom job. It would be cheaper to get a whole new shotgun than to sink the money into a custom magazine tube. I explain in the video that the barrel on one of these shotguns is bulged and the other two have obsolete choke tube systems. I would normally not cut the barrels on a collectible shotgun, but the fact is that around here, hunting shotguns do not sell well but home defense ones do.
I plan on doing this to my jc higgins model 20, glad you showed a bit on how to do this on a none ribbed barrel, but I'm curious to ask, do you have any info on the model 60 semi auto from jc higgins? I'm having trouble getting it to feed live rounds but snap caps work fine..... plus there is a huge lack in info online. GREAT VIDEO thanks
+D seitz Never seen a model 60 in person. One was used in the clock-tower shooting by Charles Whitman. IIRC, he shot at least two people with it, so his was likely reliable enough.
You'll need an approved ATF form 1 to do so if you're an individual. Depends on where you are if you are legally able to do a Form 1. Contact SilencerShop for more info or your local gun dealer.
I would avoid shortening the barrel on that one due to it being an automatic. I had to open up the gas port on the Remington 1100 I shortened to 18". It still chokes on target loads occasionally, but I cycles buckshot fine.
I have a rem. sportsman 58 3" mag. I'd really like to cut down the barrel for home defense purposes. if I took off 6" would it still cycle or would I need to have the gas ports bored?
I can't tell you for sure. I have shortened and reamed an 1100 that still barely cycles the bulk-pack ammo but is rock-solid with 2 3/4" magnum, 12-pellet 00 buckshot. The model 58 is a different animal, though. Since it only has a 2-shot magazine, it is not the best choice for home defense. Were I in your situation again (yes, I owned a cut-down 58) I would do the same thing I ended up doing... sell it or trade it for a higher-capacity gun. I traded into the gun in the first place and never even shot it.
Thanks for sharing. Great info and greatly appreciated! I just picked up 583.56 with a short range choke tube. I've been casting about the internet(from gunbroker to Numrich) trying to find a replacement choke wrench and intermediate and long-range chokes. Do you have any other suggestions on where I could find these parts? Keep up the great work; thanks again and all the best.
I do not know a source for choke tubes other than eBay. Sorry, I can't be of much help here. Jack First is another gun parts company you could try. They do not have an online catalog, but they are very helpful if you call.
@RyeOnHam Any idea what the thickness of the barrels are that have the vent ribs? I have one just like your bottom one before it was cut. Wanted to cut just behind the POWer pac and have it tapped for screw in chokes. Don't want to cut it if it gets too thin
I do not know. You can measure the outside diameter of the barrel and then consult with your gunsmith to see if that will work. Understand that the work you are suggesting is more than the value of the shotgun in its present condition, right?
Just full disclosure. I tend to leave the Modified choke tube in my hunting shotgun exclusively. Only time I've changed it was to try out a rifled choke tube about 20 years ago.
File, sandpaper, and experience. I have an upcoming video where I explain it in a bit more detail. Should be out sometime in the next few weeks if you're subscribed. Thanks for watching!
The name of the company was actually "High Standard". They sold their own branded guns as well as making guns for many of the stores like Sears, Wards, Western Auto, etc. High Standard shotguns are actually a pretty unique gun but had many hallmarks of other gun types. Most notably, they did have things in common with the Ithaca 37, itself a copy for the Remington Model 17 designed by John Browning and J.D. Pedersen.
If you go to my channel page and then click on the "About" tab, there should be a button to PM me. TH-cam does a good job of hiding it. There is a guide here: th-cam.com/video/O_XFFDr6RWA/w-d-xo.html
Did I say that's what I got them for? I've bought broke ones for that before, but I'd buy 100 of them if they were less than $100. Generally, you pay $150 or more for a working-condition one.
RyeOnHam okay I got ya I really am enjoying your videos and I have a project going on a browning bpa it has a 3 1/2 chamber so I can't find a 20" barrel for it so I have to do what you are doing in your videos I went with a bpa because I'm left handed and the bpa is very left handed friendly
RyeOnHam do the adjustable poly chokes and muzzle brakes, I think I’ve heard them called power packs, come threaded onto the barrel or brazed onto the barrel or both? I recently was given a HS k121 that was in horrible shape. Or so it seemed. After cleaning it up, re blueing it, tracking down lost and broken parts and refinish the wood I was left with a really nice old 28” barrel pump to give to my 6 month old boy once he can shoot it. I ask about the poly choke because my gun is a fixed modified choke. Not horrible but I really want to find and install a factory original brake-poly choke combo that could have come on this gun if ordered that way. I just never saw one to know if it’s possible or not. My gun is 28” non vent rob fixed mod choke. I figured if it is brazed on over barrel I could probably chop the barrel just behind the fixed choke , clean the muzzle up and then set and braze the choke/brake adapter and combo bead sight. But can’t find any info on it so I figured I’d ask u since you seem to be doing similar things just in reverse of what I’d do. Thanks.
RyeOnHam oh and you have any info on unthreading factory barrel from the receiver in order to install another barrel. I got my hands on an 18”-7 shot barrel and mag tube riot gun set up and would like to swap my barrel to this maybe in the meantime but wasn’t sure how much is involved. Figured it be a lot of long breaker bar pulling and torch heating the joint and then I’d assume I’d need to check head space of new barrel after installed. Or maybe I could chop my long barrel and heat the mag tub lug enough to melt the brazed joint and re braze the lug closet to muzzle to accommodate the longer 7 rd mag tube I want to run. Sorry for the long rambling questions I’m just recently getting into this platform after resurrecting an old k121 a customer of mine s brother broke and threw in a wet basement to rust away. Any info you have or places to look /read on this gun and it’s like models would be greatly appreciated. Have. Great weekend.
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I have a proving rod in my shop. With the action closed, I just drop it in the barrel till it rests on the breechface. If I see any of it sticking out the gun is illegal. If you are concerned, get a second opinion. I have experienced only a couple of illegal guns in my time. Two at pawn shops, one was on a guy's shoulder that walked by me at a gun show. Had my buddy watch the table and I tracked the guy down with a measuring tape. The guy at the gun show freaked out, took the barrel off, and sold it to somebody at the show. Can't do that with your gun. The pawn shop was one that I did work for. Their inexperienced clerks had bought them.
Hey buddy, the easiest way to cut a plain barrel is to use a pipe cutter. If you cut slowly and take your time it comes out perfectly straight. Chamfer it and your good.
Well, with a hacksaw and a miter box, I get square cuts without bending the barrel in. I've got a bit of experience cutting pipe and cutting shotgun barrels. Also... please explain to me how to cut a vent-rib barrel with a pipe cutter.
@@RyeOnHam . You should use the method your most comfortable with. I have only done this once but in my experance with a hacksaw, on other things I just can't get straight cuts. I was happy with the results I got from a pipe cutter, it was way easyer than I thought it would be. But then I wasn't doing it to sell. I would have left them alone the way they were to sell and let the buyer customize to their own perference. I went slowly, taking plenty of time in incriments It didn't bend the barrel in, All I had to do was use a drill and cone shaped rasp to get a clean factory look. The outside came out perfect and needed no filing. But even with the pipe cutter, it tends to want to walk until you get a nice groove started. If I did it again I would workshop ways to prevent that, maybe by sanding to take off the smooth slippery finish.
2:19 “Not gonna do much good with a bulge!”
Thanks for video. I bought a pretty nice hi-standard 20 gauge today (Dec 2015) for $125 with 5 boxes older issue shells. Am very interested in cutting it down for home defense. Your videos will help.
None of the 150+ pawnshops in my city ever have anything I’m looking for. Great looking guns.
I am retired, so I make a few trips around pawn shops a week and have people call me. Most of the time, you'll never see the guns. Persistence helps, but some if it is just dumb luck.
I wanted to see how u add the sight bead on the shortened barrel & did you reuse the same bead from the piece you cut off?? Ty & I appreciate the video
When I filmed these, I didn't have a good filming setup at my drill press. Since then, TH-cam has said we can't show gunsmithing. Anyway, for vent-rib barrels, I eyeball the center of the rib, drill a hole right behind the front standoff, and run a tap through it and debur the back side with flat tip of a needle file. Triple-check that everything is square to the receiver.
For the round barrels, I have a V-Block from Harbor Freight they call the, "Self-Centering Drill Press Jig". Put a 1/4" or bigger bit in your drill press and run it down onto the jig to center the jig, then clamp it down. Change the drill bit to the right size for your tap. Drill the hole about 1/4" behind the muzzle. Do NOT debur the hole yet. Tap the hole. Put the bead on. I prefer Brass beads as they grind slower.
Run a dremmel with a grinding stone CAREFULLY till you start seeing sparks. Feel to see if it matches the inside contour. Once you're satisfied, run a fine craytex polishing bob of the right size over the area till the polish matches that of the barrel.
Brownells sells bead kits. I prefer 6-48 holes for ribs and 3-56 holes for drilling through the barrel. Brownells also sells installation tools for the beads. It's a little pin vise that clamps on the bead and lets you thread it in. A dab of red locktite helps keep it in there.
If some of the instructions don't make sense or you don't have the proper tools, you may not have the aptitude to do this job. I learned by trial and error, but it helps to be selling half a dozen chopped shotguns a weekend so you have lots to trial-and-error. To be fair, I always use the smaller threaded beads on the round barrels and cut them 1/2" long so I have two or three opportunities to fail. I can't remember ever having to recut the barrel, tough maybe one or two where I had to drill out for 6-48 after the threading didn't feel right.
the "strange end" is a kick compensater,,,like the they use on the A1 Abrahms Tanks! And it worx GREAT! remove the choke tube and u can shoot SLUGS!
Nothing to argue with there.
Do you still have the chokes for those.......... jc Higgins
I think so. I didn't sell it or throw it away yet.
Slam fire ?? Mine doesn't do that how come
Some do some don't. It depends on year of production.
Newer models have a disconnector that doesn’t allow slam fire. Mine doesn’t either and to be honest I’m kinda glade. Everything I hear is that slam firing is just asking for an out of battery detonation especially as age and wear take hold and parts get larger and larger tolerances.
how did you get that chock apart. I bought my 12...44 years ago, sold it to my uncle 44 years ago and bought it back last week. I can't budge that chock. may have to cut the barrel , and put a newer on. it's a sears and roebuck power pack, but it says short range. I need long range for deer or elk. I work n guns for myself and people all the time but lord this chock isn't budging. I really hate to chop the barrel. tried everything.
Two methods I find usually work well are soaking and heat. I would try soaking it in a penetrating oil (Break Free) first. Use a rubber strap wrench to try to get a grip on the choke tube. DO NOT USE VICE GRIPS. If that doesn't work, heat it up. You can use a heat gun or hairdryer. If you use a torch, it can hurt your finish, so I would not suggest that. You can also try cold. Plunge the end in ice-water or pack it in Dry Ice if that's an option.
If all else fails, you can take it to any gunsmith. They have special stuck choke-tube tools that are basically a collet which goes down the bore and expands to grab the choke tube. Once it comes out, take a wire brush to the threads and install it with some choke tube lube or a good anti-seize grease. I use white lithium based stuff.
going to be heat, allready tried the rest..lol..well its been on it for 44 years. separation anxiety..thanks alot appreciated..what's your price for one of yours.
Robert Pingley To sell? I sold the three in this video. I buy them when I see a good (or beat-up) used one and end up selling most. I have a High Standard Flite King right now, but it's not for sale at the moment. I also don't talk prices or sales on the intertube for fear of being banned. Facebook and TH-cam both frown on selling guns on their sites.
That's cool , I understand. I'm going to pick up a couple more of these if mine has gone through a total 46 years between me and my uncle and that's every season he used it, they are more durable than my 870 was.
I have skewed results as I have had several broken High Standards including one I featured in another video. My repairs on 870s over the years have been limited mostly to extractors and shell latches. A handful of adjustments here and there and a few reassembly jobs when people took too much apart and/or lost parts.
Would this work with a new Winchester SXP shadow? It has a 28" barrel. I would like to use it for home defense. What kind of ammo can I use?
I am not familiar with the barrel on that gun. It depends how the rib is attached to the barrel. As for what type of ammo to use, it mostly depends on your situation. Any shot from #4 buckshot to #00 is fine, unless you have wide open spaces and expect to take shots at longer distances, in which case you should consider Foster slugs.
I would only cut down the barrel if you do not intend to use it for hunting small game and birds again, as an open choke is only good for slugs and buckshot in most hunting situations.
Any Idea on lengthening the mag tube instead of shortening the barrel. Also wondering if anyone knows of a rifled barrel for the JC Higgins.
+farmboy The JC Higgins Model 20 has a magazine system that would probably lend itself to an extended magazine tube, however it would have to be a custom job. It would be cheaper to get a whole new shotgun than to sink the money into a custom magazine tube. I explain in the video that the barrel on one of these shotguns is bulged and the other two have obsolete choke tube systems. I would normally not cut the barrels on a collectible shotgun, but the fact is that around here, hunting shotguns do not sell well but home defense ones do.
I plan on doing this to my jc higgins model 20, glad you showed a bit on how to do this on a none ribbed barrel, but I'm curious to ask, do you have any info on the model 60 semi auto from jc higgins? I'm having trouble getting it to feed live rounds but snap caps work fine..... plus there is a huge lack in info online. GREAT VIDEO
thanks
+D seitz Never seen a model 60 in person. One was used in the clock-tower shooting by Charles Whitman. IIRC, he shot at least two people with it, so his was likely reliable enough.
stevespages.com/pdf/jchiggins_60.pdf here's the owner's manual and it has most of info you'd need for the Mod 60. Hope it helps.
Can u cut a shotgun barrel down from 18inches to 14.5inches without breaking the law
You'll need an approved ATF form 1 to do so if you're an individual. Depends on where you are if you are legally able to do a Form 1. Contact SilencerShop for more info or your local gun dealer.
Great vid, now I know what to do with my Higgins mod 60....!
I would avoid shortening the barrel on that one due to it being an automatic. I had to open up the gas port on the Remington 1100 I shortened to 18". It still chokes on target loads occasionally, but I cycles buckshot fine.
I have a rem. sportsman 58 3" mag. I'd really like to cut down the barrel for home defense purposes. if I took off 6" would it still cycle or would I need to have the gas ports bored?
I can't tell you for sure. I have shortened and reamed an 1100 that still barely cycles the bulk-pack ammo but is rock-solid with 2 3/4" magnum, 12-pellet 00 buckshot. The model 58 is a different animal, though. Since it only has a 2-shot magazine, it is not the best choice for home defense. Were I in your situation again (yes, I owned a cut-down 58) I would do the same thing I ended up doing... sell it or trade it for a higher-capacity gun. I traded into the gun in the first place and never even shot it.
Thanks for sharing. Great info and greatly appreciated! I just picked up 583.56 with a short range choke tube. I've been casting about the internet(from gunbroker to Numrich) trying to find a replacement choke wrench and intermediate and long-range chokes. Do you have any other suggestions on where I could find these parts? Keep up the great work; thanks again and all the best.
I do not know a source for choke tubes other than eBay. Sorry, I can't be of much help here. Jack First is another gun parts company you could try. They do not have an online catalog, but they are very helpful if you call.
Thanks for the quick reply. I appreciate it. And thanks for the info; I wasn't aware of Jack First. The hunt continues!
@RyeOnHam Any idea what the thickness of the barrels are that have the vent ribs? I have one just like your bottom one before it was cut. Wanted to cut just behind the POWer pac and have it tapped for screw in chokes. Don't want to cut it if it gets too thin
I do not know. You can measure the outside diameter of the barrel and then consult with your gunsmith to see if that will work. Understand that the work you are suggesting is more than the value of the shotgun in its present condition, right?
Yes I know that but I got the gun cheap and want to build it into a competition shotgun for 3 gun. Value is in the eye of the beholder ;-)
Just full disclosure. I tend to leave the Modified choke tube in my hunting shotgun exclusively. Only time I've changed it was to try out a rifled choke tube about 20 years ago.
RyeOnHam do you still have the choke tube ?
I sold the choke tube recently, sorry.
Nice!
Very nice vid, I'll do the same to mine, How did you smooth/finish the barrel after cutting?
Thanks. Dennis
File, sandpaper, and experience. I have an upcoming video where I explain it in a bit more detail. Should be out sometime in the next few weeks if you're subscribed. Thanks for watching!
I would fabricate an extended magazine time for more capacity. Add a side saddle as well......
is that an ithica type?
The name of the company was actually "High Standard". They sold their own branded guns as well as making guns for many of the stores like Sears, Wards, Western Auto, etc. High Standard shotguns are actually a pretty unique gun but had many hallmarks of other gun types. Most notably, they did have things in common with the Ithaca 37, itself a copy for the Remington Model 17 designed by John Browning and J.D. Pedersen.
I know this is an old video , but do you possibly still have any of the old comps you cut off ?
Yes, I have them in the scrap bucket.
I would be interested in atleast one of them if you would like to let it go..
Ryan Larson If you message me here on TH-cam we can discuss it there.
RyeOnHam Didn't know you could send private messages on TH-cam..lol
If you go to my channel page and then click on the "About" tab, there should be a button to PM me. TH-cam does a good job of hiding it. There is a guide here: th-cam.com/video/O_XFFDr6RWA/w-d-xo.html
My question is were did you pick those up for less then a 100 bucks?????
Did I say that's what I got them for? I've bought broke ones for that before, but I'd buy 100 of them if they were less than $100. Generally, you pay $150 or more for a working-condition one.
RyeOnHam okay I got ya I really am enjoying your videos and I have a project going on a browning bpa it has a 3 1/2 chamber so I can't find a 20" barrel for it so I have to do what you are doing in your videos I went with a bpa because I'm left handed and the bpa is very left handed friendly
RyeOnHam do the adjustable poly chokes and muzzle brakes, I think I’ve heard them called power packs, come threaded onto the barrel or brazed onto the barrel or both? I recently was given a HS k121 that was in horrible shape. Or so it seemed. After cleaning it up, re blueing it, tracking down lost and broken parts and refinish the wood I was left with a really nice old 28” barrel pump to give to my 6 month old boy once he can shoot it. I ask about the poly choke because my gun is a fixed modified choke. Not horrible but I really want to find and install a factory original brake-poly choke combo that could have come on this gun if ordered that way. I just never saw one to know if it’s possible or not. My gun is 28” non vent rob fixed mod choke. I figured if it is brazed on over barrel I could probably chop the barrel just behind the fixed choke , clean the muzzle up and then set and braze the choke/brake adapter and combo bead sight. But can’t find any info on it so I figured I’d ask u since you seem to be doing similar things just in reverse of what I’d do. Thanks.
RyeOnHam oh and you have any info on unthreading factory barrel from the receiver in order to install another barrel. I got my hands on an 18”-7 shot barrel and mag tube riot gun set up and would like to swap my barrel to this maybe in the meantime but wasn’t sure how much is involved. Figured it be a lot of long breaker bar pulling and torch heating the joint and then I’d assume I’d need to check head space of new barrel after installed. Or maybe I could chop my long barrel and heat the mag tub lug enough to melt the brazed joint and re braze the lug closet to muzzle to accommodate the longer 7 rd mag tube I want to run. Sorry for the long rambling questions I’m just recently getting into this platform after resurrecting an old k121 a customer of mine s brother broke and threw in a wet basement to rust away. Any info you have or places to look /read on this gun and it’s like models would be greatly appreciated. Have. Great weekend.