Nice subtitles/explanations. I still hate cantilever brakes and would switch to v-brakes every conversion. I have a box full of used cantilever brakes. Nice jobonthe conversion.
Thanks for the kind words. I do spend a good amount of time trying to get the explanations as clear as possible. I wouldn't say I'm a fan of all canti's, just good ones. The standard shimanos that came on most builds from the 90's I can definitely see upgrading to good Vbrake. But at the same time I've seen many poor/cheap VBrakes that I despise. I like to think that, with over 10 years of experience building, I have gotten better so it nice to hear the confirmation by way of appreciation.
@@TheUndeadMechanic i'm doing it right now on a '93 crossroads! got some gravel drop bars and some long pull drop bar brakes. the biggest issue i'm running into is routing the rear brake cable because the frame was originally designed for cantilevers, so the rear stop has the cable exiting in the center of the frame instead of on the left hand side. i might cut open the cable stop with a dremel tool or something.
@@TheUndeadMechanic i got it working! found a clamp-on cable stop in my bike shop's drawer lol. the brakes are super responsive and work perfectly with my long pull drop levers.
Nicely done! I agree with your gearing sentiment. I find 8/9 speeds to be the sweet spot with extended gearing (11-34+ tooth).. It's all about the fun factor for me..
Thanks. Agreed. This is what I have arrived at trying to meet clients needs on a budget. Rather than listening to all the marketing telling you that you need a carbon frame and at least a 1x 12 or 2x11 to have fun. Now there are plenty 8 and 9 speed hi range options.
Great video! Thanks a lot for the explanations! I have a Crossroads from the same year as well and will refurbish it with your video. Could you please tell me which size the shimano square taper BB has?
@@mattiasprange5724 seeing as this is originally a triple crankset the original shimano BB that was used was probably 122mm. It varies with exact model. I have found from 118-126 with shimano triples. If you are not using the inner plate and depending on the frame you can usually get away with down to a 113. However all of this assumes JIS. Hope that helps.
Funny that you mention that exactly. When I first routed that portion of the brake housing it was shorter and i routed it under the seat post clamp but i found that it was putting the ends of the housing at an angle that made excess friction. So i routed it over and with the gentle bend the housing end was closer to perpendicular to the cable stop which made less friction.
viewers like you show that there are thousands of people like you and me who notice even ethe smallest details. :D I was about task the same question hahahahahaah
1:44 I found very hard to find retro MTB/ATB framesets for me as they seem to be too long (top tube) and too short (seat tube), headtubes are also too short. I am 172cm tall and I found 51cm seat tube and 54cm top tube to be perfect for me.
I think geometry is one of the trickiest parts of getting the frame sizing correct but I am glad you found what works for you. I am around 175cm and 53cm top tube length is my preferred size on road bike and I have translated that to ATB and MTB.
@@TheUndeadMechanic Many thanks for your answer. It is really hard to find retro MTB/ATB with 53 cm top tube in my opinion. Or I am wrong? Could you provide us with some models and years?
Hello, great vidéo thank you! I have the possibility to buy the the frame only, is it really a good base to mount a gravel? The geometry of the frame is ok ? Isn't it too heavy, here are only 3 chromo tubes on this frame, I think ?!
So I would say it depends on your precise usage. If you are thinking about competing, because gravel is now a sport, then weight is a huge concern and there are better choices obviously. If you want a bike that is durable and comfortable but still allows you to grab the drops and grind on a packed dirt trail, it can be built with this frame. The geometry is not 100% suited for the usage but with the changes, close enough. If you spend time working out the cockpit, you should end up with a very rewarding bike. Hope that helps.
Great build! I run a double crankset with a triple FD too, although the chain drops off from the larger ring sometimes. H limit screw is already bottomed out. Is there another way to fix that, aside from getting a 2x specific FD?
@@TheUndeadMechanic yes understood and much thanks for your reply. I might as well switch out the chainrings for a 38/24 with matching 2x fd. For illuatration purposes though- Its a SLX fd m660 triple with a 40/24 crankset. Bottom shell is 68mm with a 110mm square taper. Probqbly the chainline is q bit narrow? Its a 2008/9 Haro Flightline Comp frame which I converted to a rigid errand runner Looking forward to your next build and I agreed with that marketing rant LOL cheers
So I have the exact same frameset that I converted to fixie. But am now inspired! Wheelsets and components are difficult to find. Looks like an 8-speed set up. Would you recommend a Shimano Claris kit as another option? Further, what’s another wheelset you recommend as those are tough to find? I was thinking DT Swiss P1800 Spline. Appreciate any help! Thanks!
8 spd claris is a fine way to go. Now they make high range 8spd cassettes so you could even go 1X if you wanted. Wheels are becoming an issue as most manufacturers have abandoned quick release skewers. I have been mounting my own wheels for most projects now and that gives me the ability to chose exactly what I prioritize for the wheelset. Cost, durability, lightness tailored to the project.
Thank you. On the Crossroads, if I remember correctly, I went with WTB Nano 700X40. I like the width, tread and lightness of these tires, but the original version was notoriously thin, so I would only recommend them in a tubeless set up with plenty sealant. Hope that helps.
Dear Mechanic...I have another question bothering me. Maybe you can help. From my experience it is really easy to fine tune "a-head" head set by working with frontbrake and bolt. In other words, it is fairly easy to remove loose and not overcompress bearings. In this context, what is your approach to threaded headset?
I hold the front brake and rock back and forth to feel if there is play and where. I tighten the cap bolt slightly paying attention to the amount of torque that is needed to spin the bolt. Bounce the front wheel on the ground and then hold front brake and rock again to see if play is gone.
@@TheUndeadMechanic Hello. Many thanks! But what you described is approach to "a-head"..(?). I asked about your method for threaded headset. Thanks in advance!
Sorry, missed the end part. Basically the same process but tightening the top race trying to find the spot with no play but free movement of the bearings. Then tightening the top nut to lock them in place. If there is no spot where there is no play but free movement of the bearings something is wrong I.e. worn bearings, missing ball bearings or I have even seen cage bearings mounted upside down.
Fair point. I generally try to concentrate more on the mechanics of the build. Just to be clear, which choices are you most interested in? Unfortunately, given the short time I have to be fairly concise and a lot of info gets left out.
Nice subtitles/explanations. I still hate cantilever brakes and would switch to v-brakes every conversion. I have a box full of used cantilever brakes. Nice jobonthe conversion.
Thanks for the kind words. I do spend a good amount of time trying to get the explanations as clear as possible. I wouldn't say I'm a fan of all canti's, just good ones. The standard shimanos that came on most builds from the 90's I can definitely see upgrading to good Vbrake. But at the same time I've seen many poor/cheap VBrakes that I despise.
I like to think that, with over 10 years of experience building, I have gotten better so it nice to hear the confirmation by way of appreciation.
using v brakes on drop bars can be a tricky conversion though
@user3wx9V-178 Agreed. They were never meant to work in unison. I adapted them in this case because it was a specific request by the client.
@@TheUndeadMechanic i'm doing it right now on a '93 crossroads! got some gravel drop bars and some long pull drop bar brakes. the biggest issue i'm running into is routing the rear brake cable because the frame was originally designed for cantilevers, so the rear stop has the cable exiting in the center of the frame instead of on the left hand side. i might cut open the cable stop with a dremel tool or something.
@@TheUndeadMechanic i got it working! found a clamp-on cable stop in my bike shop's drawer lol. the brakes are super responsive and work perfectly with my long pull drop levers.
I learned a lot just by the visuals of your work, very nice retro build whether or not it makes sense, it's just something I want to do
@philmccavity The captions will give you some insight as well. I'm glad you found it informative.
Amazing work, very nicely done. Learnt by watching
Thanks for the encouraging words. It's always good to know that the intended purpose was achieved.
Nicely done! I agree with your gearing sentiment. I find 8/9 speeds to be the sweet spot with extended gearing (11-34+ tooth).. It's all about the fun factor for me..
Thanks. Agreed. This is what I have arrived at trying to meet clients needs on a budget. Rather than listening to all the marketing telling you that you need a carbon frame and at least a 1x 12 or 2x11 to have fun. Now there are plenty 8 and 9 speed hi range options.
Awesome video. i love all the comments! thank you
Thank you. Yes, its nice to see the positivity.
I'm a crossroads owner, Have many mint condition Air Gel saddles.
6:30 gotcha! Forgot to grease and derust the brake pins!
Great video! Thanks a lot for the explanations! I have a Crossroads from the same year as well and will refurbish it with your video. Could you please tell me which size the shimano square taper BB has?
@@mattiasprange5724 seeing as this is originally a triple crankset the original shimano BB that was used was probably 122mm. It varies with exact model. I have found from 118-126 with shimano triples. If you are not using the inner plate and depending on the frame you can usually get away with down to a 113. However all of this assumes JIS. Hope that helps.
Thanks a lot! That’s really helpful!
Can you do more videos on spotting high quality steel frames?
I am waiting to get some lower end bikes in for repair so that I can contrast them with some higher end frames to show some of the differences.
Why did you make the break housing under the seat so long? Couldn't it go under the seatpost clamp?
Funny that you mention that exactly. When I first routed that portion of the brake housing it was shorter and i routed it under the seat post clamp but i found that it was putting the ends of the housing at an angle that made excess friction. So i routed it over and with the gentle bend the housing end was closer to perpendicular to the cable stop which made less friction.
@@TheUndeadMechanic Thank you for the explanation. I want to mention that the build is awesome and the video is great. Waiting for the next ones.
viewers like you show that there are thousands of people like you and me who notice even ethe smallest details. :D I was about task the same question hahahahahaah
1:44 I found very hard to find retro MTB/ATB framesets for me as they seem to be too long (top tube) and too short (seat tube), headtubes are also too short. I am 172cm tall and I found 51cm seat tube and 54cm top tube to be perfect for me.
I think geometry is one of the trickiest parts of getting the frame sizing correct but I am glad you found what works for you. I am around 175cm and 53cm top tube length is my preferred size on road bike and I have translated that to ATB and MTB.
@@TheUndeadMechanic Many thanks for your answer. It is really hard to find retro MTB/ATB with 53 cm top tube in my opinion. Or I am wrong? Could you provide us with some models and years?
Beautiful build! just got hold of a vintage crossroads myself and thinking of doing the same. Just not looking forward to the expense.
Considering what a new bike costs I don't see it as that bad.
Hello, great vidéo thank you! I have the possibility to buy the the frame only, is it really a good base to mount a gravel? The geometry of the frame is ok ? Isn't it too heavy, here are only 3 chromo tubes on this frame, I think ?!
So I would say it depends on your precise usage. If you are thinking about competing, because gravel is now a sport, then weight is a huge concern and there are better choices obviously. If you want a bike that is durable and comfortable but still allows you to grab the drops and grind on a packed dirt trail, it can be built with this frame. The geometry is not 100% suited for the usage but with the changes, close enough. If you spend time working out the cockpit, you should end up with a very rewarding bike. Hope that helps.
Superb
Great build! I run a double crankset with a triple FD too, although the chain drops off from the larger ring sometimes. H limit screw is already bottomed out. Is there another way to fix that, aside from getting a 2x specific FD?
Hard to say seeing as Chain, chain ring, bottom bracket width as well as FD mismatch can all be possible causes.
@@TheUndeadMechanic yes understood and much thanks for your reply. I might as well switch out the chainrings for a 38/24 with matching 2x fd.
For illuatration purposes though- Its a SLX fd m660 triple with a 40/24 crankset. Bottom shell is 68mm with a 110mm square taper. Probqbly the chainline is q bit narrow? Its a 2008/9 Haro Flightline Comp frame which I converted to a rigid errand runner
Looking forward to your next build and I agreed with that marketing rant LOL cheers
So I have the exact same frameset that I converted to fixie. But am now inspired! Wheelsets and components are difficult to find. Looks like an 8-speed set up. Would you recommend a Shimano Claris kit as another option? Further, what’s another wheelset you recommend as those are tough to find? I was thinking DT Swiss P1800 Spline. Appreciate any help! Thanks!
8 spd claris is a fine way to go. Now they make high range 8spd cassettes so you could even go 1X if you wanted. Wheels are becoming an issue as most manufacturers have abandoned quick release skewers. I have been mounting my own wheels for most projects now and that gives me the ability to chose exactly what I prioritize for the wheelset. Cost, durability, lightness tailored to the project.
Wonderful craft! I’m wondering what tire did you put on this bike and what are the specs/size ? They look very good.
Thank you. On the Crossroads, if I remember correctly, I went with WTB Nano 700X40. I like the width, tread and lightness of these tires, but the original version was notoriously thin, so I would only recommend them in a tubeless set up with plenty sealant. Hope that helps.
Dear Mechanic...I have another question bothering me. Maybe you can help. From my experience it is really easy to fine tune "a-head" head set by working with frontbrake and bolt. In other words, it is fairly easy to remove loose and not overcompress bearings. In this context, what is your approach to threaded headset?
I hold the front brake and rock back and forth to feel if there is play and where. I tighten the cap bolt slightly paying attention to the amount of torque that is needed to spin the bolt. Bounce the front wheel on the ground and then hold front brake and rock again to see if play is gone.
@@TheUndeadMechanic Hello. Many thanks! But what you described is approach to "a-head"..(?). I asked about your method for threaded headset. Thanks in advance!
Sorry, missed the end part. Basically the same process but tightening the top race trying to find the spot with no play but free movement of the bearings. Then tightening the top nut to lock them in place. If there is no spot where there is no play but free movement of the bearings something is wrong I.e. worn bearings, missing ball bearings or I have even seen cage bearings mounted upside down.
What is the wheelset that you chose?
This is a cyclocross set that I had around the shop by American classic.
That's some big wheels you got there. Is that 700c?
Yes. The crossroads model was 700c from factory.
Too top!
I'm from Indonesian
Interesting but lack of explanation of choices
Fair point. I generally try to concentrate more on the mechanics of the build. Just to be clear, which choices are you most interested in? Unfortunately, given the short time I have to be fairly concise and a lot of info gets left out.