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@@uncleronny6748 im not touching that one with a ten foot pole🤣🤣🤣. "Unwed mechanic" very well done sir.👏🏼😆

@@trroland1248 Thanks. Trying my best.🙂

@2nalodt that's been my experience as well, but one must also remember the further back you go in time, its more likely that that wheel set was built by hand. Especially with certain manufacturers.

... says the BILLY GOAT ....

@Jl454w I am glad that you have had a good experience, and with this video it was never my intention to say proprietary design means faulty in any way. Just that replacement parts become more difficult to find with time and wheels tend to take the brunt of the wear with use. But of course they could also last a lifetime if they were lightly used and very well maintained.

@@TheUndeadMechanic I should have said what I said differently, as I didn't mean to disagree with you. I agree 100% with your video, and my original post was just an admiration of a great product, nothing else. Sorry for the confusion! Cheers!

Not a problem. A good product and experience is worth sharing. I find it difficult to be concise and get everything across without misinterpretation in this format as well.

Hard to pull the brakes levers with both fingers🤞

Can't say I remember off-hand for sure . But if I remeber correctly it was an older cyclocross wheelset at 130 and a mid nineties touring frame at 130 as well. If it were something else I would have noticed because I don't like different measures from OLD to Dropout width and will either cold set the rear triangle to the wheel or modify the OLD dimension to match the dropout dimension. Depends on wheel, Depends on frame. Having said that 5mm is fairly minimal seeing as there is usually a +/- 2mm depending on manufacturer and the cases where I will alter are usually above 5mm. Hope that helps.

Thank you very much.

@peternaughton3301 Thank you. I am always open to a proper critique. Which is exactly what you have given here, and i appreciate that. Unfortunately it seems as though it is a bit of a lost art. To articulate what is good as well as what can be improved upon in that person's honest opinion. Its absolutely whats necessary to move things foward. I feel the format of comments is not so conducive to the regular flow of conversation so I didn't notice the disjointedness. I really like the format that I have but I do realize and have been considering a way to integrate voice over seeing as it is the most quickly relatable and accepted way to get information across. As to your point about the weight, it's something I always mean to integrate, but sometimes it escapes me with all the other details I try to include. But thanks for the reminder.

@dannymai4065 Great to hear that you found it inspiring. Good luck with the project.

Thanks. Yes, it's hard to beat thumbies for simplicity.

It is a non branded new old stock 90's alloy bar. I found a stock of them at a distributor here in madrid and thought they were pretty cool and vintage so I purchased the stock so i have a few available for sale.

@noelsmith1852 Thanks. This is a standard 1" stem with a clamp diameter of 25.4mm. 🤔Or 26mm. Can't remember off hand now. Yeah its hard to get the cockpit right. Not so many options in 1" stems with sufficient rise but not advance. Also compact bars for that clamp diameter.

@soerengrupe depends on exact use and surface but the difference between 32 and 35 is quite minimal so you should be good with either really.

@@JetAgeOfLotus Thank you.

Good guess, but no. The shoguns that i have worked on have all had slightly sloping top tubes. This is horizontal.

Can you? Possibly, it depends on the exact drop and the size tire you would want to run. Would you want to is the proper question and my answer would be definitely no. This frame has been quite well thought out for a specific use with disc brakes as it preferred set up. For me it would be a shame to veer that far from its original intended set up. If you specifically wanted to get away from a disc brake set up there are still steel frames that can be purchased that have the option for cantilever brakes or V brakes, which in my opinion are more appropriate for this type of use than caliper brakes. Hope that helps.

@@uncLays thank you. I appreciate the kind words🙂

Thanks. Always had a soft spot for British racing green. I will forever be reminded of the mgb's, minis, and jag's of yesteryear.

@@rollypollyguy3976 very well stated and unfortunately, true. The name would be great though. Maybe I should make some decals.

@momofabian5395 There are some safety concerns with putting very wide tires on older, narrower inner width, rims. Like 38mm and above. The light bulb shape that happens with this combination can lead to the tire rolling over on to its side. This is more likely to be an issue if you are riding hard as opposed to leisurely. So depending on your specific usage it would be more of an issue or not. Mavic has a chart for their recommended inner rim width max tire size combinations that you can find online. They are fairly forgiving as to where most other manufacturers I have seen are much more conservative with their recommendations. Hope that helps.

Thanks, man. There is nothing better than a quality steel frame. The poly tubing kind of evolved because I noticed that I wore through the paint on my daily driver from picking it up to put on my shoulder, grabbing the exposed rear brake cable with the toptube. I never really liked the donuts, so I had to come up with another solution. Later I realized it solves the cable rub for frame bagsas well.

Cool rims indeed😅

@lauig Thank you for taking the time to comment. It's always good to feel your work is appreciated.

@sz12359 I assume you watched it without subtitles. The subtitles have all the info.

@BrockNew The bars are an interesting solution that integrates handle bar and front rack into one unit. This system does away with many mounting issues one would encounter while trying to add a front rack to your existing set up. The biggest drawback for me is that they have tried to make the system fairly universal, but the bars are very minimally swept back and because you lose the ability to rotate the bars finding the appropriate hand distance/height becomes difficult. You have to use stem length and inclination and in some situations, it is not possible. Fortunately with the super short stem we were able to achieve a comfortable riding position. This particular client uses this bike very frequently, and although I am not a big fan of the aesthetic of these bars/rack, they have served his purpose perfectly. Hope that helps.

@@mattiasprange5724 seeing as this is originally a triple crankset the original shimano BB that was used was probably 122mm. It varies with exact model. I have found from 118-126 with shimano triples. If you are not using the inner plate and depending on the frame you can usually get away with down to a 113. However all of this assumes JIS. Hope that helps.

Thanks a lot! That’s really helpful!

@@peternaughton3301 Thank you very much for the kind words. It is always nice to know your hard work is appreciated.

@@DastanAitmurzaev Thank you for the kind words.

@@johnfowler4820 Thank you for the kind words.

@@pawelkarpinski7961 Thank you. Regarding the time with no uploads. I am a workshop of one person and after this summer there was quite a big rush of people wanting to get there bikes maintained/repaired, so the last couple weeks have been all about service and few projects. I do enjoy putting the work up for people to see but the business comes first. In regards to the question of should someone remove the BB each season, i would say it really depends on the conditions. If you live in a place with a very large temperature difference over one season, snow, salted roads and such, I think its not a bad idea, in that it, the removal, inspection, and cleaning can prevent oxidation from taking hold in that area. Also depends on the design of BB. If we are talking about an old cup and cone type BB then the answer is immediately yes. Remove, clean, inspect, regrease, replace and adjust. If we are talking about sealed bearings, there isnt really any adjustment that can be made and the only real benefit would be to clean and renew the anti-sieze. There of course is a note of caution as every time you remove and replace the BB thats added stress on the threads. Some people are notorious for cross threading and that can maul the threads enough such that there isnt enough material left to create a sturdy enough union and the bb will eventually strip the BB and or BB shell. With head set again depends on design. In my experience loose ball headsets are more prone to contamination and for that reason more maintenance is required. Hope that helps.

@@sheensheeng_ sure. What are your questions?

@@vanwilder1101 Over the years I have assembled hundreds of bikes. And that number is not figurative, or an exaggeration. New and old and on a few occasions I have mounted a brand new head set that binds. In each case, like this one, there was an asymmetry in the head tube and mostly it was that the upper and lower surface were not parrallel. After facing the head tube and remounting the same head set the binding was gone. So i will continue with my experience of what works. Also I know i was correct about the the upper and lower surfaces not being parrallel because of the witness marks left by the facing tool. If it were just a high spot in the paint i would have been able to shave off just the high spot of the paint without getting to metal which was not the case. In conclusion I have found that more precision equals more repeatable long lasting results. I dont see why you would be advocating for less, but you build your way and i will build mine.

@@TheUndeadMechanic Well, I've literally built hundreds of bikes too, for nearly 40 years, and when I say built, I mean literally built frames. What your suggesting goes against physics, the cup seats in the tube itself, not on the top edge, it only rests on the top edge. Given there is at least one area of the head lug that is parallel, and the cup is inserted deep enough to spec, there would technically be no issue- it's simply how it works. The binding issues you may have had is a worn inner tube, often when a wrong headset is used, like a 30.2 ISO being jammed into 30.0 JIS head tube spec, that can cause binding and poor seating. Excessive wear on the inside of the head tube can, at times, cause this issue, not the top or bottom edge of the lugs. Again, it's simple physics

@@Thomas-o7i You can but then your canti placement will have to be accommodated.

@@paulh6591 Thank you very much for sharing your experience. I consider the longevity of the usefulness of an item a testament to its good design. Glad to hear that after so many years those bikes are still providing enjoyment.

On this project I specifically mentioned to the client that the finish would be very delicate and probably only last for about two years if treated very gently and the client was ok with that. He knew that his riding would be occasioanl and that the bike would be kept in doors. You are correct in the assumption that without a proper primer the clear will not adhere sufficiently to provide the durability necessary to endure typical use. To do this properly becomes quite expensive as the paints necessary are very specific and not cheap. I do not yet have a video on the specific finishing process of the steel but have in mind to once i have another project like this. Thanks for watching, I hope you find this response useful.

26 x 2.10

Thanks for the encouraging words. It's always good to know that the intended purpose was achieved.

If it was this color, it must have been this bike, seeing as it is custom.