I like how you dum gum the screws! Good seal. Didn’t I read in the code that if the knockout isn’t concentric the bonding bushing requirement changes? That galvanized will last forever and is better looking! Great Job Ron!💪🏼🇺🇸 Happy Veterans weekend. Thank You for your service!
Supply house should carry white THWN riser cable I would think. I’m not sure but I thought most do. Nice Jonas always. Always learn new information from your videos
Over 20 years ago when I did Electrical,Inspector told to remove the sheathing 2ft top and bottom on the neutral conductor cause I using a black wire as neutral. I love your videos,keep them coming.
About spray painting to designate the neutral conductor - I don't think any paint will stay on that nylon THWN sheathing. The only way to make it stay is to rough it up with sandpaper, but that compromises the insulation. White electric tape works, unless they start making heat shrink tubing that I can trust to last under direct sunlight for many decades.
Great video Ron 👍🏼 I like seeing you use that rigid conduit lol. Something I was taught a long time ago , and I still do to this day , is I put some no lox on the threads that thread into the meter hub. It prevents those threads from rusting as well as if you ever have to take that apart it won’t be seized up. It’s probably not absolutely necessary but it’s something I always do. I actually put no lox on the hub screw threads , the as well as all the termination threads. And yes even when using copper. Just because 👍🏼
Nice job,honestly the service looks so much more 'professional' when you use a rigid conduit for the raiser.I'm just suprised you left that old clevis/point of attachment.If this was my house,I would have updated it 100%.Thank you for making these videos btw,it's nice to watch a true professional work.
I agree, but if I ever have to bend some RMC I won't be able to because I don't have thousand-dollar benders. Btw, I could still update the service hook/ clevis. At some point I want to replace those fascia boards and it'll have to be addressed then.
Tech Tip, Drill out the connecting metal on the concentric KO to be removed with a small metal drill bit, then pop the proper KO out without damaging others
Nice work brother. I also like to run a bead of clear caulking around the edge of my meter base along the siding on top and the sides to keep the water from getting behind there and possibly into the load side and I to the back side of my panel
I would have used anti Oxidant compound ( maybe Ideal Noalox ) on utility aluminum wire and had on eye protection and 600 volt rubber gloves while tying in power. Great ideal of using duct seal at service head. Use to do a lot of deep sea fishing at Barnagat ( white star 3 & 4 boats ) down to Cape May. Only fished out of your nice town once.
I've done that before but I'm usually too lazy to go and get the right drill bit. My Atlas 46 Saratoga vest gets delivered next week so I'm hoping that'll speed things up.
You mentioned you couldn't use long screws for the meter box. My meter is also on the opposite side of the wall from the panel. They drilled a hole for mounting the meter box that went through the panel and through one of the busses in the panel! You can see the plastic anchor through the hole!
Slightly idiot electrician in 1978 put a 3" EMT riser on my house and attached with 3 one sided clamps and not very long screws. Riser is ~12', holds a 200amp service. At some point years later a tree fell on the line and riser got knocked off the house, messed up a little siding but also wrecked a 2x4 in the second story and the attached dry wall. Had the riser repositioned in place but not til I re-sided the house 25 yrs later did I revise the riser attachment, open the dry wall repair, repair the 2x4 and carefully attached the riser with smaller screws than before to an added cross piece of 2x4 horizontal between the repaired studs, reasoning that if the drop wire were ever hit by a tree again, I would prefer the riser clamps be easily pulled out of the wall rather than half the wall pulled down. In my area only the PowerCo can cut and reattach drop or meters. They are pretty good about coming when needed.
17:21 And *that* is why you said you need a t-shirt pocket. I get it. To be honest, I use a designated pocket in my tool belt for this, but important things like that are good to keep "closer to the chest".
Was the line coming from street still live? When you we’re tightening the Polaris lugs you seemed to be cautious but when it came to taping them you touched the Polaris lugs a few times on the hot phases.
Well, that spray paint might be okay for a while, but if that insulation on that wire is engineering plastic, (really soft and slippery like polyethylene, such as pop bottles are made of ) over time that paint will blister and peel off of it. You're better off with the vinyl tape to mark the neutral.
Good morning Ron, when you do an electrical replacement or upgrade in New Jersey, does the work requires an inspection and approval. Love the way you work and all details, including the information that you provide. Please keep it up.
Great footage! And beautiful neighborhood! Love your dogs, too! So the two service side conductors are interchangeable? No need to mark each of them as L1 & L2? Thanks!!!
Can’t say for sure but I’d be concerned about solvents in the paint degrading the wire insulation…another sweet job on another hot, humid day here in Jersey 👍👍🏆🏆
Hey Ron fantastic workmanship as usual. I don't think the paint will stick to the wire. I think the cables have that SIMpull insulation (HDPE) which helps when pulling through conduit . Interesting you put duct seal around the conductors at the service head. My service didn't have that and I had bees in my panel !!!
I've noticed that on some videos that one of the line feeds is black, but with a red stripe, and the other is solid black. So apparently some people do want to differentiate the two feeds? But I like your method of white taping the neutral all through the box. Some might think it's over the top, but nobody will ever confuse that for a hot.
Great informative video. Thanks for taking the time to make it. What does a job like this typically cost here in N.J? To upgrade the box outside and the breaker panel inside.
Great video. At that gauge of conductor I see no issues painting it other than it would probably scrape off a little when feeding through the conduit. I believe paint it an approved method for reidentifying?
That rigid can be a pain to work with but man it is bada$$!!! What that section of rigid set you back like $100 ?? I think to you'd be ok with the spray paint on the cable as long as you use a plastic bonding spray paint before base coat paint to make sure it sticks good !!! 👍 great work as usual Ron. Oh and we need to see more of the Frenchy , too adorable. I had a 16 year old girl French bulldog
great!! now everyone has to pass this information to the local -tv new and the reporter will try to bring awareness to the community, please do it i have plenty of work may be 30 days you have a report to why to remember the new NEC CODE had already change for island or peninsula, because many babies 2-3 yrs old had died or fatal injuries had occurred the question is can you file the report. Remember to do the best you can and forget the rest.
Nice work! I have to ask….. do you ever see illegal taps into the power side with customers? I assume with the rate hikes it’s more common 🤷🏻♂️ Then what happens?
I say white heat-shrink sleeve over the neutral? I know that's not as easy or convenient as tape but it looks better, in my opinion. Man that 2" galvanized RMC could not have been cheap. I think you used EMT straps but I think there are even RMC straps too, they're these heavy cast metal straps... you see them on ships.
@@electricianron_New_Jersey That is very interesting. I guess that would be a technicality of using dissimilar materials that aren't "rated and tested" to be compatible
Seen phase paint and spray paint on all kinds of conductors and it doesn't hold up. Heat does a number on the solvents of the paint and flakes and fades. Heck seen that cheap Harbor Freight electric tape just unravel from the heat. I work in the southwest. The heat and UV tears up things. Also NEC 110-11 if the equipment is not rated fo the intended environment then it can't be used. Paint spray and latex is not UL listed or said it can be applied to electrical wires. Thats my two cents. Might be wrong about the paint but I don't use it to identify conductors. Also in my parts overhead service, must be secured so no other trade can remove or temporary move the overhead service to accomplish their job. So rigid metal from meter enclosure to weatherhead is preferred. Oher trades have to around this. And the crazy micro bursts we get 2 to 5 times a year won't rip the service from the building.
Great video. Noticed you were not concerned touching the hots coming in from the transformer. I’d be concerned about making my body a bridge to ground. Is that just pretty impractical up the ladders?
I'm not a chemical engineer, I wouldn't want to be liable for the insulation deteriorating if there was a reaction between the two. Unless it was listed for such a propose ofc... I believe rack-a-teirs has a conductor paint though
Do power companies still use those short tubes that get crimped to connect the incoming wires to the riser wires? Are those connectors that you wrapped in electrical tape insulated or are they fully energized. Your bare hands got very close to them a few times. Thanks for the video? I liked your dogs.
My local powerco used them at my house, last about 10ys ago when I re-sided. My drops near the house have three of these in series on the drops from disconnects and reconnects over the years.
I saw your video of you doing your own service. I noticed that you didnt put any oxgard or and anti corrosion material between the utility service drop , which is aluminum and your wiring, which is copper. Is that not a requirement in yalls area?
@@Ampacityelectric i had Utility splices fail because they didn’t use any anti corrosion on the wire. I saved a homeowner money when I showed him the corroded splices after he called me about the weird voltage problems that he had
The electrician’s home always has missing plates and zero correct items written on the service panel schedule/index. 🤣 Kinda like the cobbler’s kids have no shoes… or something like that. Seriously.. Thanks Ron! Now that I’m retired (I enjoy watching the work of others. (retirement was definitely not my choice for sure - i have AS and had to abandon my career and volunteer “career” as a volunteer firefighter /EMT.). Thanks again. Rich
Just a guess but that might just be temporary. The splice from utility to owner at the service drop is supposed to be the responsibility of the utility company. He may be having them come out at a later time to do the splice their way.
Question about duct seal. At utility company we use red colored duct seal, because its non asbestoes. We were told grey contains asbestoes. Is grey also non asbestoes?
Yeah, it's safe. You can find the MSDS online. It's basically clay and talc. Some talc can have trace amounts of asbestos in it, but the amount would be so low, and duct seal isn't an airborne powder. Breathing the air on most of the NE coast is probably 100x more dangerous than duct seal.
Definitely a little overkill, but a beautiful install. When i buy my house, ill probably do something similar. I love working with copper conductors so much more than aluminum
Why not cut the drip loop first then pull the meter? Eliminate the possibility of something breaking and arcing while pulling that meter while it’s energized?!
@@electricianron_New_Jersey so if that line side lug breaks and hits against the meter base or hits the other “live “ phase that will arc and blow up! They showed this in an OSHA class I took years back. You don’t have to have a load for something to blow up and arc! You just had a lug break in a meter base in one of your videos.
@@electricianron_New_Jersey 😅.. that was a real question though.. I'm not a native speaker so i might have missed some important details in your video.
@@jt5747@jt5747 Ok.. I see now..I thought it was an ordinary metal ladder.. But isn't that metal conduit earthed? He was so close to it and the ladder steps look like they are made of aluminium. I am aware that there in the USA you have two 120V conductors instead of one 240V conductor but I still would not touch one with a bare hand lol as i am worried about accidental earthing.
As long as you stay isolated, what he did was safe. Personally I would have worn my gloves and my company would require it as well but he works for himself.@@IAmThe_RA
May be a stupid question, but you had to call JCP&L to get them to shut off your service during this project right? Do you just give them the timeframe that you need it shut off? How do they shut off just the service to your lines?
All ya gotta do (as long as your licensed and experienced) is make sure the loads from the house are off and cut the utilities side one by one at weatherhead. Problem most of time is waiting for them to come out and timeframes. Easier just to do it yourself if experienced
@@electricianron_New_Jersey I guess my question wasnt really clear enough -- I meant the lines from the pole are energized right? You have to have them shut off by JCP&L before you start messing with cutting/reconnecting, right? Or maybe I'm missing something here 😆
@@0blivioniox864 The lines from the pole were energized the whole time he performed this work. He did not have JCP&L de-energize the lines. That's why he taped them off and only handled one at a time. Sounds like since he is licensed and insured, this is an acceptable practice. I'd be scared to do this but I am not licensed, insured, or even an electrician for that matter.
@@0blivioniox864 so basically they wouldn't shut power off lines say through a computer (if that's what ya mean) if your not licensed and experienced and need them to shut off they usually send out a sub contractor couple days after calling (who knows when) and the sub basically does what Ron did, cut the live wires atop the weather head so he can perform work. Then when work is done get inspected and set up another day subs come back out and reconnect live atop that weather head where they cut. Again when experienced (as long as their is no load) it's not as bad as it looks to disconnect and reconnect.
I think it is because shutting the individual breakers off first reduces the load on the main breaker which reduces the chance or amount of arcing on the main. This reduces the wear and the chance of the main failing. You also turn the main back on first before the individuals so the main isn't going under load.
Nice work as always.....your facia boards are in bad shape....almost as bad as on my garage on one side.....A working man has no time for stuff like that !
Can't answer for Ron but if you are unsure how much wire you will need much easier to order black and apply tape than order three colors and have three wires a foot short.
I like how you dum gum the screws! Good seal. Didn’t I read in the code that if the knockout isn’t concentric the bonding bushing requirement changes? That galvanized will last forever and is better looking! Great Job Ron!💪🏼🇺🇸 Happy Veterans weekend. Thank You for your service!
Supply house should carry white THWN riser cable I would think. I’m not sure but I thought most do. Nice Jonas always. Always learn new information from your videos
I love seeing clean electrical work! Nice job.
Over 20 years ago when I did Electrical,Inspector told to remove the sheathing 2ft top and bottom on the neutral conductor cause I using a black wire as neutral. I love your videos,keep them coming.
Old school Metallica fan with the frayed ends of sanity 🤘
Another great video
Hear them callinggggggggg...
HEAR
THEM
CALLING
ME
@@0blivioniox864 Metal Horns
About spray painting to designate the neutral conductor - I don't think any paint will stay on that nylon THWN sheathing. The only way to make it stay is to rough it up with sandpaper, but that compromises the insulation. White electric tape works, unless they start making heat shrink tubing that I can trust to last under direct sunlight for many decades.
Read that the thin outer jacket ( nylon ) can be peeling off outdoor THWN/THHN wires .
I do think white heat shrink is made
Great video Ron 👍🏼 I like seeing you use that rigid conduit lol. Something I was taught a long time ago , and I still do to this day , is I put some no lox on the threads that thread into the meter hub. It prevents those threads from rusting as well as if you ever have to take that apart it won’t be seized up. It’s probably not absolutely necessary but it’s something I always do. I actually put no lox on the hub screw threads , the as well as all the termination threads. And yes even when using copper. Just because 👍🏼
Nice job,honestly the service looks so much more 'professional' when you use a rigid conduit for the raiser.I'm just suprised you left that old clevis/point of attachment.If this was my house,I would have updated it 100%.Thank you for making these videos btw,it's nice to watch a true professional work.
I agree, but if I ever have to bend some RMC I won't be able to because I don't have thousand-dollar benders. Btw, I could still update the service hook/ clevis. At some point I want to replace those fascia boards and it'll have to be addressed then.
@@electricianron_New_Jersey You need hydraulic benders for that kind of pipe. Imagine how costly a bending screw-up is for RMC!
It’s funny how all of our backyards look like a second hand supply house lol
Tech Tip, Drill out the connecting metal on the concentric KO to be removed with a small metal drill bit, then pop the proper KO out without damaging others
Nice work brother. I also like to run a bead of clear caulking around the edge of my meter base along the siding on top and the sides to keep the water from getting behind there and possibly into the load side and I to the back side of my panel
I would have used anti Oxidant compound ( maybe Ideal Noalox ) on utility aluminum wire and had on eye protection and 600 volt rubber gloves while tying in power. Great ideal of using duct seal at service head. Use to do a lot of deep sea fishing at Barnagat ( white star 3 & 4 boats ) down to Cape May. Only fished out of your nice town once.
Cool. But then JCPL would come back and cut out your work and installed their own connection and probably not use any anti-oxidant.
Hey Ron, little tip for gettin those meter base knockouts removed quicker. I use a Milwaukee Colbalt metal bit to drill out the welds. Pops right out!
I've done that before but I'm usually too lazy to go and get the right drill bit. My Atlas 46 Saratoga vest gets delivered next week so I'm hoping that'll speed things up.
Great content Ron. Impressive installation with the galvanized tubing as we know you’re a pvc guy. Best regards from Chicago
Hi Ron. First time viewer, really cool video. Always nice to run into a fellow Jersey boy on TH-cam.
Nice job as always. You make it look easy.
Thanks for sharing your knowledge and expertise.
You mentioned you couldn't use long screws for the meter box. My meter is also on the opposite side of the wall from the panel. They drilled a hole for mounting the meter box that went through the panel and through one of the busses in the panel! You can see the plastic anchor through the hole!
Yeah that’s not good. Especially since water can get through there now.
Great Video. Thank you for sharing
Slightly idiot electrician in 1978 put a 3" EMT riser on my house and attached with 3 one sided clamps and not very long screws. Riser is ~12', holds a 200amp service. At some point years later a tree fell on the line and riser got knocked off the house, messed up a little siding but also wrecked a 2x4 in the second story and the attached dry wall. Had the riser repositioned in place but not til I re-sided the house 25 yrs later did I revise the riser attachment, open the dry wall repair, repair the 2x4 and carefully attached the riser with smaller screws than before to an added cross piece of 2x4 horizontal between the repaired studs, reasoning that if the drop wire were ever hit by a tree again, I would prefer the riser clamps be easily pulled out of the wall rather than half the wall pulled down. In my area only the PowerCo can cut and reattach drop or meters. They are pretty good about coming when needed.
Congratulations
Thanks Ron!
17:21 And *that* is why you said you need a t-shirt pocket. I get it.
To be honest, I use a designated pocket in my tool belt for this, but important things like that are good to keep "closer to the chest".
It must be tough working for such demanding customers (Gus and Gonzo)🐕🐕🦺
Was the line coming from street still live? When you we’re tightening the Polaris lugs you seemed to be cautious but when it came to taping them you touched the Polaris lugs a few times on the hot phases.
Right, but the electrons had no place to flow because I’m on a fiberglass non-conductive ladder.
Love your videos Ron! Keep em' coming!
@electricalron very good video! I’ll be doing my service soon too
Well, that spray paint might be okay for a while, but if that insulation on that wire is engineering plastic, (really soft and slippery like polyethylene, such as pop bottles are made of ) over time that paint will blister and peel off of it. You're better off with the vinyl tape to mark the neutral.
Good morning Ron, when you do an electrical replacement or upgrade in New Jersey, does the work requires an inspection and approval. Love the way you work and all details, including the information that you provide. Please keep it up.
Yes.
Great footage! And beautiful neighborhood! Love your dogs, too! So the two service side conductors are interchangeable? No need to mark each of them as L1 & L2? Thanks!!!
Not when it’s single phase.
@@electricianron_New_Jersey Thanks Ron!!!!
Can’t say for sure but I’d be concerned about solvents in the paint degrading the wire insulation…another sweet job on another hot, humid day here in Jersey 👍👍🏆🏆
Saludos desde Penjamo GTO MÉXICO amigo.❤❤❤
Hey Ron fantastic workmanship as usual. I don't think the paint will stick to the wire. I think the cables have that SIMpull insulation (HDPE) which helps when pulling through conduit .
Interesting you put duct seal around the conductors at the service head. My service didn't have that and I had bees in my panel !!!
When I took the old service head down it was filled with old nests. I'm lucky there was nothing alive in there.
One other question, when you open the meter pan the JCP&L seal is broken. I guess you have to call them to have a new one put on ?
@@Aerospace_EdC I have a permit to do this work and I'm a licensed electrician. The license is key to doing any work like this if it's not your house.
I've noticed that on some videos that one of the line feeds is black, but with a red stripe, and the other is solid black. So apparently some people do want to differentiate the two feeds?
But I like your method of white taping the neutral all through the box. Some might think it's over the top, but nobody will ever confuse that for a hot.
Great informative video. Thanks for taking the time to make it. What does a job like this typically cost here in N.J? To upgrade the box outside and the breaker panel inside.
$3500-$5k
Great video. At that gauge of conductor I see no issues painting it other than it would probably scrape off a little when feeding through the conduit. I believe paint it an approved method for reidentifying?
That rigid can be a pain to work with but man it is bada$$!!! What that section of rigid set you back like $100 ?? I think to you'd be ok with the spray paint on the cable as long as you use a plastic bonding spray paint before base coat paint to make sure it sticks good !!! 👍 great work as usual Ron. Oh and we need to see more of the Frenchy , too adorable. I had a 16 year old girl French bulldog
The rigid metallic conduit was expensive.
@@electricianron_New_Jersey I definitely get it though, your own crib spare no expense. I would do the same
Metallic riser is like your ranger Alex Belzila scarring a single-handed goal, PVC is like a save.
(Excuse my demented sense of humor)
1:44 - now you got my interested Ron 😂😂😂
Can you use schedule 40 PVC for conduit riser?
Check with the Bldg Dept first but you should be ok. The NEC lists PVC as a wiring method for services.
great!! now everyone has to pass this information to the local -tv new and the reporter will try to bring awareness to the community, please do it i have plenty of work may be 30 days you have a report to why to remember the new NEC CODE had already change for island or peninsula, because many babies 2-3 yrs old had died or fatal injuries had occurred the question is can you file the report. Remember to do the best you can and forget the rest.
What size conduit pipe was that? 2 inch or 2 1/2 inch?
2” galvanized RMC.
Nice work! I have to ask….. do you ever see illegal taps into the power side with customers? I assume with the rate hikes it’s more common 🤷🏻♂️ Then what happens?
That’s the utility problem, not mine.
You need a warehouse, or another garage.. 😂. Thanks for the video.
Good Stuff!
Thank you!
nice and sweet
Thanks
Gus has the cutest face
I say white heat-shrink sleeve over the neutral? I know that's not as easy or convenient as tape but it looks better, in my opinion. Man that 2" galvanized RMC could not have been cheap. I think you used EMT straps but I think there are even RMC straps too, they're these heavy cast metal straps... you see them on ships.
They're 2-hole galvanized heavy-wall straps. I like using them on PVC but apparently thats a code violation to use them with the PVC.
@@electricianron_New_Jersey That is very interesting. I guess that would be a technicality of using dissimilar materials that aren't "rated and tested" to be compatible
Seen phase paint and spray paint on all kinds of conductors and it doesn't hold up. Heat does a number on the solvents of the paint and flakes and fades. Heck seen that cheap Harbor Freight electric tape just unravel from the heat. I work in the southwest. The heat and UV tears up things. Also NEC 110-11 if the equipment is not rated fo the intended environment then it can't be used. Paint spray and latex is not UL listed or said it can be applied to electrical wires. Thats my two cents. Might be wrong about the paint but I don't use it to identify conductors. Also in my parts overhead service, must be secured so no other trade can remove or temporary move the overhead service to accomplish their job. So rigid metal from meter enclosure to weatherhead is preferred. Oher trades have to around this. And the crazy micro bursts we get 2 to 5 times a year won't rip the service from the building.
Great video. Noticed you were not concerned touching the hots coming in from the transformer. I’d be concerned about making my body a bridge to ground. Is that just pretty impractical up the ladders?
That's why electricians should only be using non-conductive fiberglass ladders like you see in the video.
no spay paint! white tape . 30 year retired electricinan
I'm not a chemical engineer, I wouldn't want to be liable for the insulation deteriorating if there was a reaction between the two. Unless it was listed for such a propose ofc... I believe rack-a-teirs has a conductor paint though
Great video
Great work. For some reason it only uploaded in 360p
GO BLUE !!!!!!
What do you think of ECX screwdriver?
inspectors don't make you put corrosion preventing paste on the connections?
White tape is the right way
Do power companies still use those short tubes that get crimped to connect the incoming wires to the riser wires? Are those connectors that you wrapped in electrical tape insulated or are they fully energized. Your bare hands got very close to them a few times. Thanks for the video? I liked your dogs.
My local powerco used them at my house, last about 10ys ago when I re-sided. My drops near the house have three of these in series on the drops from disconnects and reconnects over the years.
I saw your video of you doing your own service. I noticed that you didnt put any oxgard or and anti corrosion material between the utility service drop , which is aluminum and your wiring, which is copper. Is that not a requirement in yalls area?
@@Ampacityelectric i had Utility splices fail because they didn’t use any anti corrosion on the wire. I saved a homeowner money when I showed him the corroded splices after he called me about the weird voltage problems that he had
What kind of tape is used on the splices you made on the service lines from the pole?
Rubber tape by Scotch.
So your a Michigan Football fan?
The electrician’s home always has missing plates and zero correct items written on the service panel schedule/index.
🤣
Kinda like the cobbler’s kids have no shoes… or something like that.
Seriously.. Thanks Ron!
Now that I’m retired (I enjoy watching the work of others. (retirement was definitely not my choice for sure - i have AS and had to abandon my career and volunteer “career” as a volunteer firefighter /EMT.).
Thanks again.
Rich
Sorry to hear that, Rich. I'm glad you enjoy the videos!
i think i will work fine
That ladder is not Osha approved
Show me the OSHA code violation number or pound sand.
your house knobb looks rough
What did we ever do without the band saw?
@@jamescollins8148 I bought mine 3-4 years ago and I’m not sure how I got by without it.
Don't you have proper heat shrink or seal in the US? Using tape to cover live parts is illegal in Germany.
Just a guess but that might just be temporary. The splice from utility to owner at the service drop is supposed to be the responsibility of the utility company. He may be having them come out at a later time to do the splice their way.
Not here it’s not.
where were your leather gloves at Ron
Question about duct seal. At utility company we use red colored duct seal, because its non asbestoes. We were told grey contains asbestoes. Is grey also non asbestoes?
Yeah, it's safe. You can find the MSDS online. It's basically clay and talc. Some talc can have trace amounts of asbestos in it, but the amount would be so low, and duct seal isn't an airborne powder. Breathing the air on most of the NE coast is probably 100x more dangerous than duct seal.
Good question. I'm pretty sure no asbestos it just has to be rated for outdoor if you're using it outdoors.
LOL
Definitely a little overkill, but a beautiful install. When i buy my house, ill probably do something similar. I love working with copper conductors so much more than aluminum
Where I am from you are only allowed to use galvanized out side or rigid pipe
That's just so the union guys can boss you around.
Why not cut the drip loop first then pull the meter? Eliminate the possibility of something breaking and arcing while pulling that meter while it’s energized?!
No load, no arcing.
@@electricianron_New_Jersey so if that line side lug breaks and hits against the meter base or hits the other “live “ phase that will arc and blow up! They showed this in an OSHA class I took years back. You don’t have to have a load for something to blow up and arc! You just had a lug break in a meter base in one of your videos.
How come you dont use hot gloves? Seems sketchy lol
How did you isolate the utility feeds? I see that you were not using gloves.
I'm a magician.
@@electricianron_New_Jersey 😅.. that was a real question though.. I'm not a native speaker so i might have missed some important details in your video.
@@IAmThe_RA He only handled one at a time and stood on a fiberglass ladder with no path to ground.
@@jt5747@jt5747 Ok.. I see now..I thought it was an ordinary metal ladder.. But isn't that metal conduit earthed? He was so close to it and the ladder steps look like they are made of aluminium. I am aware that there in the USA you have two 120V conductors instead of one 240V conductor but I still would not touch one with a bare hand lol as i am worried about accidental earthing.
As long as you stay isolated, what he did was safe. Personally I would have worn my gloves and my company would require it as well but he works for himself.@@IAmThe_RA
Is that why they call it a utility knife?
@@spacemanwithraygun3933 yes
May be a stupid question, but you had to call JCP&L to get them to shut off your service during this project right? Do you just give them the timeframe that you need it shut off? How do they shut off just the service to your lines?
No, I'm licensed and insured electrical contractor.
All ya gotta do (as long as your licensed and experienced) is make sure the loads from the house are off and cut the utilities side one by one at weatherhead. Problem most of time is waiting for them to come out and timeframes. Easier just to do it yourself if experienced
@@electricianron_New_Jersey I guess my question wasnt really clear enough -- I meant the lines from the pole are energized right? You have to have them shut off by JCP&L before you start messing with cutting/reconnecting, right? Or maybe I'm missing something here 😆
@@0blivioniox864 The lines from the pole were energized the whole time he performed this work. He did not have JCP&L de-energize the lines. That's why he taped them off and only handled one at a time. Sounds like since he is licensed and insured, this is an acceptable practice. I'd be scared to do this but I am not licensed, insured, or even an electrician for that matter.
@@0blivioniox864 so basically they wouldn't shut power off lines say through a computer (if that's what ya mean) if your not licensed and experienced and need them to shut off they usually send out a sub contractor couple days after calling (who knows when) and the sub basically does what Ron did, cut the live wires atop the weather head so he can perform work. Then when work is done get inspected and set up another day subs come back out and reconnect live atop that weather head where they cut. Again when experienced (as long as their is no load) it's not as bad as it looks to disconnect and reconnect.
Why didn't you just shut the main off instead of shutting down the breakers one by one
I think it is because shutting the individual breakers off first reduces the load on the main breaker which reduces the chance or amount of arcing on the main. This reduces the wear and the chance of the main failing. You also turn the main back on first before the individuals so the main isn't going under load.
Nice work as always.....your facia boards are in bad shape....almost as bad as on my garage on one side.....A working man has no time for stuff like that !
You got that right brother!
Don't think so
Just out of curiosity why don’t you use colored conductors instead of marking them?
Can't answer for Ron but if you are unsure how much wire you will need much easier to order black and apply tape than order three colors and have three wires a foot short.
Makes sense. Still love the videos great content
Did you debur the ridge pipe.
It’s conduit.
Hey Ron.. Do you do any CCTV or structured cabling installs?
And… Is Morris Twp. in your work territory?
I'm sorry it's too far.
No would not work. Paint would come off. Or fade off from the sun.