ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 3 มิ.ย. 2024
- #Toyota #toyotatacoma #caraudio
Do RCA Ground Loop Isolators Work?
Hey guys in this video I am trying to fix a buzzing noise that I got from the audio upgrade I did on my Toyota Tacoma.
I believe I installed everything correctly and it didn't work. Then I change the adapter backward and I didn't get results either.
What have you done to eliminate the noise that you hear in this video?
I am open to suggestions!
Thank you :)
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/ jprens7 - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
How did you fix the engine sound in your speakers?
by installing the part correctly
@@69tytyhar didn’t have to do him like that
Could be the vehicle, as stupid as it sounds some car manufactures will motor noise into the speakers to make it sound more sporty.
Another issue could be the ground, on the stereo, adding a thicker ground could help, however another issue could be failing preamp, they don't go bad quickly, might be able to set stereo to bluetooth/aux and play nothing, than set the volume to max. If you hear static when nothing is playing music it is frequently a preamp issue, with the only real solution being to bypass the preamp.
Some vehicles will not have the amp built into the head unit, so when you remove the head unit the preamp remains, and is still wired into the speaker lines this can produce static, but most common issue when folks use an LOC to tap into the speaker lines for their RCA source.
This sounds like it's built into the car, contact the manufacture and ask them if they play motor noise through the speakers ... it does happen, and some times you can disable it.
@@GainingDespairwhat a stupid stupid comment 😂
@@coolinmacthe comment is factual, not stupid. It’s a known fact that higher end luxury cars do this very thing he has said when there is a premium sound system involved. There are also 2 microphones in place for ANC, but I guess you wouldn’t know that, would you? 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
Very much yes. Not only in a car audio but after buying one for my home setup it fixed all the buzzing I was having.
@clinton Swart- your absolutely correct. He also said that he would leave it hanging loose to do a test drive. I specifically thought that was so that if it continued to give engine noise, he'd be able to then try the brown wires. Great job to him anyway for even taking the time to go thus far 👍
Great job bro!!!! We really appreciate people like you. God bless 🙌 🙏!!!
They are a good band aid for loops or electrical noise. You also have to actually watch closely. These will add distortion to the system right off the bat. I have 4 brand new ones I was trying to use to fix a ground loop. I was wanting to take a short cut to remove it. It worked a little as I also have electrical noise. I am fixing it right without these. Anyway I noticed output and frequency loss. I also notice that the sound wasn't as clean either. So I retested my gains using DD1 and a oscope. Imagine my surprise when I seen a lot of distortion as soon as signal was detected. They can work for some issues but not all. They can and do kill frequency response and add distortion. I will not say all are that way. But the 4 I have all did it.
Not all products can be used in the same way, this video helps other not to make the same mistake. Good job 👏🏽
True. Thank you joha 😃 the next video was my solution.
Isn’t this hooked up wrong???? Correct me if I’m wrong please but would it not make sense to connect this to the back of the stereo? Saves you money on the additional wires and connectors.
I have a 2021 Toyota Tacoma as well with the factory headunit added 2 amps one for bass and one for the voice door speakers and had horrible static and engine whine I completely fixed the problem by adding a ground from the head unit metal housing to the frame and a ground from the battery to the frame and a ground from the engine block to the frame u can get the 4 gauge wire from autozone. Both of my amps are grounded to the frame rail try using a 10 or 12 gauge wire from the head unit to the frame. Hope this helps and any ground added to the rca only worsens the static.
Where did u run you remote at !!!
This can be avoided by running rcas away from power and ground wire. It fixed my issue
the need to be installed right behind the radio at the radio.. not at the amp if u look on the isolator it tells u which side is input and output
yes
I think it might be my rcas i bought decent tspec 12 rcas but yesterday I started getting a bunch of noise from my sub and I unplugged the right one it went away but the other side was fine.
You made a mistake you need to wire it directly behind your stereo.. filter the noise from the stereo to the amplifier…
Try a power filter vs an inline one, worked wonders on my boombox atx power supply, inline suppession wont eliminate power noise. Inline eliminates audio source noise, very similar in concept but major differences in applications d
Tracing down ground issues on a 12 volt system can be super frustrating. Think about it like this, ground = ground. Every ground in your car is connected, meaning the ground in your rca cables, radio, amplifier, and alternator are all connected. If you want to truly isolate the ground on your stereo you need to add a ground loop isolator to the main 12v connection and to any rca cables. The alternator whine you are hearing is most likely being apmlified by the amp itself so I would try moving the ground as far away from any other source and look into adding a big ground isolator in between your amp and chassis.
Also you can add a floating ground!
I used the same thing in I'm happy with the isolator. Fix the problem with noise I was getting for rca. Try coming off the head unit and see if that works...
Thanks for telling me this. I ended up fixing it by lowering the gain on the LOC behind the head unit (in another video). I thought about putting the filters behind the HU but then I thought it would have been too crowded back in there. Glad it worked out for you!
PAC sni-1s will eliminate noise very well when done correctly. But they’ll also reduce the output of bass frequencies
Same for me. Have you found any that doesn’t reduce the bass frequency?
@@kasb16 no, the easiest way is going to be just chasing the ground loop
The RCA's plug into the head unit DIRECTLY, then you run your RCA's out of the GLI to the amp. You DO NOT attack the grounds without testing output first, if you test output and you get no signal, THEN you attach the grounds to a common ground (as close to the head unit as possible while still having 0.0Ohm to the headunit ground.)
I tried to get rid of buzz noise in my amplifier/subwoofer and tried a rca isolator . I hooked it up and there was no buzz noise, but I still have subwoofer popping when I turned it on the system.
Lower the gain on the amp. Lower the volume before you shut the system down.
Also may have to use a external timer, if your headunit doesn't let you control remote turn on time. If the amp turns on before radio is sending signal, you could get popping.
i have done the same thing, ground loop isolators clear most of the noise, i do not think the RCA's you bought are good though, when RCA's start to wear off they start making more noise or cutting some of the sound off, twisted RCA's will do a much beter job and theyre just male and femal regular RCA's don't have to be male to male and then female to female adapters as you see RCA's draw a bunch of noise so by adding all those RCA's you're drawing a lot of noise, i used rockford fosgate rca's i think 2feet are available, they helped for a while, you reduce noise little by little but they're on the RCA's most of the time. get twisted rca's and get rid of those old ones and the female to female adapters you'll get better sound. not gona 100% get rid but itll be an improvement.
COYS!!!!!!
"It doesn't just work." Okay, so then what else does it do over and above working?
You didn't talk about the two brown wires. One is internally connected to the input side of the rca shield. The other brown is tied to the output shield of the rca's. You can verify this with a continuity check using your multimeter. If you went ahead and hooked up both brown wires to the same ground point during your install, this is why your issue wasn't solved.
He mentioned it at 4:40 but yeah, he didn't use them
You have to see we’re the noise it’s coming from from the radio or the rca
Bro I don't care what the instructions say you have to ground out those two wires! And it will work trust me.
I thought of that after I returned the product :/ Fortunately enough, I fixed the ground issue coming from the LOC. xD I should try this in the future though to push the power to its limits without ground noise issues.
What do I ground the 2 brown wires to
@@jcorona7731 if you install them on the AMP side, ground them with the AMP or the same place where you ground the AMP. If you install them behind the Head Unit, ground them on the same place where the HU is grounded. Hope this helps :)
@@prens7380 thanks I grounded to 2 brown wires to my negative on my amp thank you for your response
@@jcorona7731 Awesome! Hope it worked!
Check your gains, grounds, amp placement, filters closer to source
I did. Turned out the issue was the LOC behind the HU. that is how I fixed it :)
@@prens7380 what is the loc ?
@@nathanbolt6671 the Line Output Converter. It converts the cables behind the Head Unit to RCA to connect to the Amplifier.
@@prens7380 I have not heard of this solution before. What did you do to fix it?
@@cameroncampbell6931 some line out converters have a little screw that lets you adjust the gain normally when you install a line out converter the instructions tell you to turn it all trhe way to the left so you can adjust as needed later his was simply too high producing hum/his at low volume
Fix your grounding and you won’t need that
Yes. The grounding was good in my case but the gains from the LOC were to high. I lowered them and the noise went away :)
That's not necessarily true. My car has very solid grounding throughout along with the big three and there's still slight engine whine noise in my car. I even went so far as getting a separate ground ran from the back of my head unit to the negative terminal on my battery instead of just connecting it to a solid frame behind the radio. Unibody cars are a nightmare to deal with when it comes to grounding. I had to run a separate ground from the hood to the trunk going to my second battery all because there's not a good frame source in those cars. My ground issues didn't just affect the engine whining noise but it made my amps overheat and clip.
Or upgrade your power and ground wiring. You'd be surprised how many people try to use the smallest amp install kit they can possibly find and then wonder why they have noise in their system. Shit matters people.
I connected mine the opposite way you did and it removed all my static noise
yes he did it hella wrong he bought extra stuff not needed (female to female rca and the 12 in rca male to male not needed lol) also ground loop comes from using low qaulity rca cables buy high qaulity shielded rca cables you wont even need a ground loop isolator
You installed them wrong. Installed on source side. If you still have hum whine then you connect brown wires to the body of your source. Have used them on hundreds of installs have never failed. If you still hear noise get better rca with shielding and run opposite side of power. If you have to cross power do it horizontal , not inline with power
Body of the source meaning head unit or the car chassis
So it stops the noise that you hear when the engine revs up. The higher the rpm the louder the noise. The noise sounds like a winding high pitch sound. If it stops that it did the job. The other noise you might hear is like a hum. That comes from turning the volume up with nothing playing. That's normal. Higher quality players do not have that hum!
Wrap a wire around the rca's and ground it to the car and problem solved.
Can you explain in more detail. I tried this today and it did not go away. I peeled the rubber from the top of the wire and I grounded it. Then I kept the other end and wrapped it around all 4 rcas and it didn’t do anything. Am I doing something wrong?
Problem not solved 👎
Change your alternator
Learn how they work and in what situations they work. Then do a review.. This is an install fail, not a product fail.
You might be right. I thought the noise was coming from the RCAs. Like I said in the video. They didn’t work for my application it might work for others. So they just don’t work in every use case. The product was just built cheaply and the cables were very weak. You could see the Cooper in one of them. Maybe I just got a broken one base on the quality of the build. I said the product has great reviews but for my case my noise is coming from somewhere else. I do know how they work lol
@@prens7380 if you knew how they worked, this video wouldn't exist.
The video would still exist. Just with a positive outcome of my problem being fixed. Why don’t you tell me what it could be? Or recommend a better ground isolator. Not sure why you are defending so much this box. Again, I said my issue might be coming from somewhere else. My first step was to check rca inputs.
@@prens7380 there isn't any product for your specific issue
That is why I am trying to identify the source. I am just documenting the things I am trying to fix it so hopefully helps some else out n the future. Not to be negative or bit**h on the product. Yes will be checking all my grounding points next before I go extreme and re run the cables.