@MrHutchDaddy Yes, you are absolutely right. We should have drained the anti-freeze first. The truth is this was the first liquid cooled sled that I ever worked on and we didn't think about that in advance. Then next time we do a job like this we will certainly drain it first. Thanks for watching.
@AndroidNeko I appreciate the advice. It's my brother's sled and I've never worked on liquid cooled sleds before so I did think about the anti freeze. He just had the bottom end rebuild at the beginning of that season too. The mechanic that worked on the bottom end didn't think that the anti freeze was going to create a problem. That's according to my brother. He removed most of it with his shop vac shortly after but knowing my brother there is still some at the bottom end. We'll see?
@MrPittman95 We'll be finishing it soon since my brother just ordered the rest of the parts today. He bought a used cylinder but new pistons and rings and spent a total of 315 bucks and all he needs is some gasket sealer and mabe some coolant and we should be set. He's replacing both pistons and rings while we're in there. Maybe we'll do it this weekend if the parts come in. Thanks for watching.
like i said man make sure the gap is facing up or down trust me i went to school for this stuff i love helping people out as much as i can we all hate motor failure it sucks and puts a dent in our wallet and reliability in the machine hope this information helps on any future motor tear downs and rebuilds
100% correct. The sir clips need the opening clocked at 6 or 12. If they're at 3 or 9 they will compress from high rpm over time causing them to pop out. Resulting in catastrophic damage. Luckily it only chewed the piston, scored the cylinder and it didn't break the skirt off. Causing the crankshaft any damage. That's when it becomes a full blown tear down and alot of Ben Franklin's.
Watching these 2 stroke videos has got me wanting to get one of those vintage 2 stroke Japanese street bikes from the 1970's. Or , if they were street legal in the states, an Aprilia rs125. Just something about a 2 stroke that is so cool. Looking forward to the rebuild video.
hey guys, thanx for videoing all of this, very useful to me, i have same sled, no motor probs yet, i do run iridium plugs tho, anyway, ive had some probs w my sled blowing belts, ive been told that the 700's have a ton of torque...i blow about one a yr, what kind of belts do you guys run on ur sled, ive got the carlise ultimax belt twice now and they only last a yr or so, any thoughts...thanx again
The loose intake boot from your carb caused a lean condition in the cylinder which caused lack of oil in the cylinder this is probably what caused the Piston ring to break and score the jug and Piston check the oil injection as well i had jet ski with a cracked injection line that caused the same thing. At the end of the day it was caused due to lack of oil
That's possible but what we noticed later at the rebuild was that the circlip was missing from that piston's wrist pin and caused the damage. Thanks for the comment.
@browal123 Thanks that's good to know. We should be finishing it up pretty soon. My brother bought a used cylinder a last week so now hee just needs to get the piston and rings andmy make the video of it going back together. Thanks for watching.
@jnem33 Well, we really don't do as much riding as we would like to. Especially with the lack of snow we've had this year. but I still have the original belt on my sled that came on it when I bought it last year and it's fine. You may want to take a look at your clutches and make sure they don't have any rough areas on them. That can prematurely wear out a belt. Of coarse it depends on how much you ride and how hard you ride to determine how long a belt should last. Thanks for watching.
@rich04111 We didn't install the pistons when they were installed so I'm not sure which way they were put in. Thanks for the advice. We'll check into all that before finishing up the repair. It probably won't be until October or November since my brother won't want to spend money on it until it gets closer to the riding season. Thanks for watching.
Change both pistons cuz new one will have more compression. Then more money will be spent if it breaks again . Use the same mag jug tho . Get a new jug for the other side .
@MrsSparkesxo Thanks for the comment. If you get time, watch the rebuild series videos where we found out what caused all of the damage & it wasn't bad gas or poor oil, although those are things to consider. Also we always run 93 octane gas in our sleds for best performace. Thanks for watching.
i learned a geat tip from ishobie's channel ,to get rid of all the coolent in the cylinder ,he used a shop vac before teardown to avoid a mess on dissesembly
@browal123 If it doesn't get gas it can blow. I'm in a 2 year Marine and Small engine program. The Gas washes the oil into the sled. the oil wont just lubricate by it self on a 2 stroke engine. Its too heavy to efficiently cover the parts. So a plugged carb could have a part in it. (Would make it run lean as well)
Is this a video on how not to tear down an engine? Why wouldnt you drain the block of antifreeze? Havent watched the other vids but I hope you got the antifreeze out of the case.
Not sure of how to drain the block of the anti freeze. We are not pros obviously. but we get the job done. We did get the antifreeze out from the block and the sled is now running great after a second rebuild. Apparently they need oil too. lol. My brother ran it out of oil. Thanks for watching.
Rotax Adjustable Variable Exhaust I gotta clean those fuckers on my sled sometime soon... if you know how to do it can you make a video about it please? I have not been able to find one.
That is some bad luck you have there. And wow, you actually took off the head and cylinder without draining the coolant? I hope you dryed the coolant from the crankcase immediatly, otherwise you could end up with a ruined bottom end when winter comes. Crank bearings take some heavy beating from that. Just a heads up! I would recommend replacing both pistons while you have the engine apart, I wish you the best of luck rebuilding it and I hope you get it running again! :)
hey ... make sure when you guys are doing this.. when It comes time to re assemble the y pipe to the jugs .... make sure to seat the y pipe to both jugs before torqueing the jugs to the engine. if you do not seat the y pipe before you tighten both jugs you may not get a proper seal on the y pipe , in result you may get a lean mixture (suck air) and burn one cylinder.
those jugs have a Nickle plating do not hone. what looks like caused this would be lack of oil in the cylinder. i always add a ounce or 2 too the gas on fill up for some insurance.
ring failure, usually cause by poor oil use or bad gas, id recommend 91 octane as a minimum, the 700's were a little bad and notorious for blowing, they used the same head as the 600 and i think compression ratio was really high for the 700s and they canned them in 2004
Oh wow I would pull the motor right out and rinse the crankcase out with kerosene to get the little metal chips out... then spray everything with thin oil before putting it back together
@paisteboy Also make REALLY sure nothing got down in the crankcase, you wont get so far if it did. You should be able to blow it out, wich also may take care of some coolant. I sent my jugs that had suffered from severe detonation for repair wich costed me about $390/cylinder including new nicasil here in Sweden. Jugs returned as new and the price was much less than new ones. Might be worth looking into. If you need any help or have any questions, feel free to ask! Ill help as much as i can! :)
Can not believe u guys didnt drain the coolant out ..even if u did drain it after ...the coolant will rust the crank bearings and cause that to fail as well..these guys prolly had more issues with this sled after the rebuild from.coolant in the crank ..do not follow these steps ppl ..first thing is first no matter wat...DRAIN COOLANT OUT !!! Then tear down ..came across the vid when i was searching for other info lol
You may be right about draining the fluid first, but we had no issues with the sled or the crank bearings after this. We did end up doing a second rebuild though because my brother ran it out of oil. It ran great after that too.
@@Paisteboy nice ..and its a simple mistake iv done it with a race quad when i was younger lol but glad its still going great im in middle of rebuilding a pro x my self .lol And i wasent trying to be rude in any way great vid up and down Tho
@MrHutchDaddy
Yes, you are absolutely right. We should have drained the anti-freeze first. The truth is this was the first liquid cooled sled that I ever worked on and we didn't think about that in advance. Then next time we do a job like this we will certainly drain it first. Thanks for watching.
@ravework
I don't think the head had any damage to it but we'll take another look at it soon as we have to finish fixing it.
@AndroidNeko
I appreciate the advice. It's my brother's sled and I've never worked on liquid cooled sleds before so I did think about the anti freeze. He just had the bottom end rebuild at the beginning of that season too. The mechanic that worked on the bottom end didn't think that the anti freeze was going to create a problem. That's according to my brother. He removed most of it with his shop vac shortly after but knowing my brother there is still some at the bottom end. We'll see?
Very happy I have the same sled makes my life so much easier watching you guys tinker at it
Good to hear. Thanks for watching.
@MrPittman95
We'll be finishing it soon since my brother just ordered the rest of the parts today. He bought a used cylinder but new pistons and rings and spent a total of 315 bucks and all he needs is some gasket sealer and mabe some coolant and we should be set. He's replacing both pistons and rings while we're in there. Maybe we'll do it this weekend if the parts come in. Thanks for watching.
like i said man make sure the gap is facing up or down trust me i went to school for this stuff i love helping people out as much as i can we all hate motor failure it sucks and puts a dent in our wallet and reliability in the machine hope this information helps on any future motor tear downs and rebuilds
100% correct. The sir clips need the opening clocked at 6 or 12. If they're at 3 or 9 they will compress from high rpm over time causing them to pop out. Resulting in catastrophic damage. Luckily it only chewed the piston, scored the cylinder and it didn't break the skirt off. Causing the crankshaft any damage. That's when it becomes a full blown tear down and alot of Ben Franklin's.
Watching these 2 stroke videos has got me wanting to get one of those vintage 2 stroke Japanese street bikes from the 1970's. Or , if they were street legal in the states, an Aprilia rs125. Just something about a 2 stroke that is so cool. Looking forward to the rebuild video.
hey guys, thanx for videoing all of this, very useful to me, i have same sled, no motor probs yet, i do run iridium plugs tho, anyway, ive had some probs w my sled blowing belts, ive been told that the 700's have a ton of torque...i blow about one a yr, what kind of belts do you guys run on ur sled, ive got the carlise ultimax belt twice now and they only last a yr or so, any thoughts...thanx again
The loose intake boot from your carb caused a lean condition in the cylinder which caused lack of oil in the cylinder this is probably what caused the Piston ring to break and score the jug and Piston check the oil injection as well i had jet ski with a cracked injection line that caused the same thing. At the end of the day it was caused due to lack of oil
That's possible but what we noticed later at the rebuild was that the circlip was missing from that piston's wrist pin and caused the damage. Thanks for the comment.
@browal123
Thanks that's good to know. We should be finishing it up pretty soon. My brother bought a used cylinder a last week so now hee just needs to get the piston and rings andmy make the video of it going back together. Thanks for watching.
It was the wrist pin c-clip that the mechanic didn't reinstall correctly after the bottom end rebuild that caused the failure.
@jnem33
Well, we really don't do as much riding as we would like to. Especially with the lack of snow we've had this year. but I still have the original belt on my sled that came on it when I bought it last year and it's fine. You may want to take a look at your clutches and make sure they don't have any rough areas on them. That can prematurely wear out a belt. Of coarse it depends on how much you ride and how hard you ride to determine how long a belt should last. Thanks for watching.
@rich04111
We didn't install the pistons when they were installed so I'm not sure which way they were put in. Thanks for the advice. We'll check into all that before finishing up the repair. It probably won't be until October or November since my brother won't want to spend money on it until it gets closer to the riding season. Thanks for watching.
I think I watched that video but it was well after we did this tear down. I think it's Lshobie for Louis Skeebo. Great channel. Thanks for watching.
is the rotax power valves?
@MRBASSFISHERMAN101
It has around 3200 miles and the bottom end was just rebuilt and everything else looked good.
wouldnt it have been less messy if you drained the ant-freeze for this job?
Change both pistons cuz new one will have more compression. Then more money will be spent if it breaks again . Use the same mag jug tho . Get a new jug for the other side .
Good suggestion. Thanks for watching.
You're welcome. Thanks for watching.
@AndroidNeko
Thanks. It sounds like it might get pretty expensive.
The ports get sharp and rip out the rings which then scores the piston and cylinder.
@BIGTRUCKBALLIN420
OK, thanks. I'll take a closer look at it when we remove the piston.
@MrsSparkesxo
Thanks for the comment. If you get time, watch the rebuild series videos where we found out what caused all of the damage & it wasn't bad gas or poor oil, although those are things to consider. Also we always run 93 octane gas in our sleds for best performace. Thanks for watching.
how much did this job cost ?????
omg I cant believe you didnt stick any rags in the case.... with that ring hanging off the piston like that ready to fall in... wow
i learned a geat tip from ishobie's channel ,to get rid of all the coolent in the cylinder ,he used a shop vac before teardown to avoid a mess on dissesembly
@paisteboy Also, There is also a chance your ring cought on the port in the cylinder. If it some how got past the locator.
@browal123 If it doesn't get gas it can blow. I'm in a 2 year Marine and Small engine program. The Gas washes the oil into the sled. the oil wont just lubricate by it self on a 2 stroke engine. Its too heavy to efficiently cover the parts. So a plugged carb could have a part in it. (Would make it run lean as well)
Is this a video on how not to tear down an engine? Why wouldnt you drain the block of antifreeze? Havent watched the other vids but I hope you got the antifreeze out of the case.
Not sure of how to drain the block of the anti freeze. We are not pros obviously. but we get the job done. We did get the antifreeze out from the block and the sled is now running great after a second rebuild. Apparently they need oil too. lol. My brother ran it out of oil. Thanks for watching.
I have coolant spewing out of spark plug and around head seal area. Any advice?
Tear it apart. You blew something. At the very least a gasket. Was it still running ok when you noticed this?
Thanks guys for doing a nice job showing a "How to" video!!
Why would antifreeze be coming out the exhaust?
Should have drained coolant before disassembly.
@@Paisteboy I wasn’t disassemble it
Then you have blown gasket somewhere at the very least.
Rotax
Adjustable
Variable
Exhaust
I gotta clean those fuckers on my sled sometime soon... if you know how to do it can you make a video about it please? I have not been able to find one.
That is some bad luck you have there. And wow, you actually took off the head and cylinder without draining the coolant? I hope you dryed the coolant from the crankcase immediatly, otherwise you could end up with a ruined bottom end when winter comes. Crank bearings take some heavy beating from that. Just a heads up! I would recommend replacing both pistons while you have the engine apart, I wish you the best of luck rebuilding it and I hope you get it running again! :)
hey ... make sure when you guys are doing this.. when It comes time to re assemble the y pipe to the jugs .... make sure to seat the y pipe to both jugs before torqueing the jugs to the engine. if you do not seat the y pipe before you tighten both jugs you may not get a proper seal on the y pipe , in result you may get a lean mixture (suck air) and burn one cylinder.
We did that on the latest rebuild we did about a month and a half ago.
good stuff :)
those jugs have a Nickle plating do not hone. what looks like caused this would be lack of oil in the cylinder. i always add a ounce or 2 too the gas on fill up for some insurance.
Just took top end off and no scars or scratches or signs of any kind of damage. Seems like the gasket was shot tho
Sounds about right. A new gasket should do the trick. Check out my new rebuild video. Top End Rebuild Again: PART 1 of 2, 2002 MXZ 700
ring failure, usually cause by poor oil use or bad gas, id recommend 91 octane as a minimum, the 700's were a little bad and notorious for blowing, they used the same head as the 600 and i think compression ratio was really high for the 700s and they canned them in 2004
Part 3 is called "2002 Ski-doo MXZ 700 Top End Rebuild: Part 1"
Thanks for watching.
Crazy my dad's did the same thing..brp rebuilt the motor and sure as shit the c-clip wasn't all the way in and boom...same damage
not cleaning your carbs causes a lack of fuel which causes a lean burn which creates hotter burn temps. which creates the need for more oil
looking forward for part 3
My 2002 mxz 500 did the same thing the cause of that was a lack of oil,
Oh wow I would pull the motor right out and rinse the crankcase out with kerosene to get the little metal chips out... then spray everything with thin oil before putting it back together
@uberaudioexperience
Thanks for watching.
We also did the rebuild videos too.
@paisteboy
Also make REALLY sure nothing got down in the crankcase, you wont get so far if it did. You should be able to blow it out, wich also may take care of some coolant. I sent my jugs that had suffered from severe detonation for repair wich costed me about $390/cylinder including new nicasil here in Sweden. Jugs returned as new and the price was much less than new ones. Might be worth looking into. If you need any help or have any questions, feel free to ask! Ill help as much as i can! :)
send the jug out to have it resurfaced. cheaper than a new jug. Small magnet to feel in the bottom of the crank.
Most likely the PTO crankshaft seal is bad. Sucking air leaned out fuel mixture and caused seizure
This was the time that the c clip came of of the piston wrist pin.
if they are nikasil lined jugs you cant hone them.
@mikeyz75
That's my brother for ya.
@fordwillkillyou
That makes a lot of sense. We'll clean the carbs.
thats going to cost a pretty penny, thats for sure
Bottom end gonna shit the bed with all that coolant poured down it
I've seen that comment many times but the sled ran strong for years after that.
Can not believe u guys didnt drain the coolant out ..even if u did drain it after ...the coolant will rust the crank bearings and cause that to fail as well..these guys prolly had more issues with this sled after the rebuild from.coolant in the crank ..do not follow these steps ppl ..first thing is first no matter wat...DRAIN COOLANT OUT !!! Then tear down ..came across the vid when i was searching for other info lol
You may be right about draining the fluid first, but we had no issues with the sled or the crank bearings after this. We did end up doing a second rebuild though because my brother ran it out of oil. It ran great after that too.
@@Paisteboy nice ..and its a simple mistake iv done it with a race quad when i was younger lol but glad its still going great im in middle of rebuilding a pro x my self .lol
And i wasent trying to be rude in any way great vid up and down
Tho
Cool. Yeah, we're not mechanics, but things still work out for us most of the time. Thanks for watching.
rist pin clip did it
Are you asking? Im pretty sure we say that during this video. If not we did in part 1.
@fordwillkillyou
that happedned to my 700 with 8000 miles on stock motor, to much piston play