Thanks for the explanation! I don't know about insightful though :) I've been thinking about making a rod for years, but I'm still gathering tools and information. These kind of videos get me motivated to move ahead. I'll check out the v block.
Thanks for a nice and informative video. Does leaving some curvature alter the way the strip lays in the form for final planing, and if so do you somehow compensate on the final dimensions? Thanks, Mike.
Pedunculopontine Your questions shows great insight in to the hobby. If you measure your strips with a micrometer you are ignoring the apex and it is difficult to achieve the final dimension that you are looking for after glue up. This is very common and why you should always log your form measurements, your strip readings and your final dimensions after glue up. Often the correct numbers are not achieved and builders are unaware. I had this problems with many of my early builds. I now trust the measurement with a Waara V-block. The reading is always greater than the one you get with a micrometer. My rods are now always two times the v block measurement, it just makes it easy. The v-block reads the apex value. You can get by without one by understanding the form setting/strip reading/final dimension relationship. If you are always a few thou under or over depending on your methodology you can increase or decrease your form setting to overcome the discrepancy. I did a video on the v-block that explains why I trust it so much, fast reading and trusting the v-block number over the planing for setting. In the end all I care about is that the final dimension is the same as the target taper dimension. Hope this helps. Thanks for watching.
@@dariuswhite227 hide glue is not suggested. It will hold the section together but is not waterproof and may fail at a later time. Epoxy and urea formaldehyde are the most common adhesives used.
I’m a bit jealous of your scraper sharpening skill. Ever try a concave edge?
Thanks for the explanation! I don't know about insightful though :) I've been thinking about making a rod for years, but I'm still gathering tools and information. These kind of videos get me motivated to move ahead. I'll check out the v block.
Thanks for a nice and informative video. Does leaving some curvature alter the way the strip lays in the form for final planing, and if so do you somehow compensate on the final dimensions? Thanks, Mike.
Pedunculopontine Your questions shows great insight in to the hobby. If you measure your strips with a micrometer you are ignoring the apex and it is difficult to achieve the final dimension that you are looking for after glue up. This is very common and why you should always log your form measurements, your strip readings and your final dimensions after glue up. Often the correct numbers are not achieved and builders are unaware. I had this problems with many of my early builds. I now trust the measurement with a Waara V-block. The reading is always greater than the one you get with a micrometer. My rods are now always two times the v block measurement, it just makes it easy. The v-block reads the apex value. You can get by without one by understanding the form setting/strip reading/final dimension relationship. If you are always a few thou under or over depending on your methodology you can increase or decrease your form setting to overcome the discrepancy. I did a video on the v-block that explains why I trust it so much, fast reading and trusting the v-block number over the planing for setting. In the end all I care about is that the final dimension is the same as the target taper dimension. Hope this helps. Thanks for watching.
@@canebuilder3520 can u use hide glue to bind the blanks together
@@dariuswhite227 hide glue is not suggested. It will hold the section together but is not waterproof and may fail at a later time. Epoxy and urea formaldehyde are the most common adhesives used.
@@canebuilder3520 when u put the guide on can u just dip the whole rod in wood varnish and will that be enough to lock down the guys
@@dariuswhite227 many builders dip the entire section with guides on but there is usually some varnish already on the threads.