So sorry this happened to you. A few years ago this happened to me at a well known shop after a slow leak my tire. They patched it the right way by taking the tire off the rim to apply the patch. I was watching the shop guy put it back on and he started all the lugs with an impact gun instead of by hand. Got back to the house and grabbed my torque wrench to tighten to factory spec.3 of them would not move and didn’t want to break off. Took it right back in and said I can’t get the wheel off. They took it in and broke off 3 studs removing the lug nuts. They came back at me saying the studs broke and wanted some cash to replace them. Told the front desk man “hell no, you were the guys who fixed the tire and the last ones to touch it so I will wait here for you to fix it”. They gave my my keys back within an hour free of charge.
@@daibennett9224 yet people always end up bringing there vehicles to us. One time I had a customer do the timing belt on their car because we were "overcharging" them so they decided to it themselves. To make the story short vent valves guess who had to swap the engine this guy. So before you tackle a job make sure you have really good knowledge on what youre about to do
thats just shitty technicians that just are lazy and rushing the job. the true ones that care to do the job right would do it correctly. At the good Mercedes Benz dealerships, if a tech screwed up a vehicle and it was sent back, the same tech that fucked up would have to redo the job again and he won't be getting paid off it.
You need to be applying the force to the inside nut. ( the one you had the box end wrench on when jamming the two nuts together). And it will come right off.
I literally missed a track day because of this this past weekend. Nothing like being 4 hours away from your tools and having to ask other racers to borrow. Not gonna lie had a racer give me a hole saw that’s the same side as the Stud and drill down as much as you can. It was actually a genius idea.
I had this happen on the Subaru thanks to a shop over torquing it. I went a different route. Sounded difficult but took all of 10 mins to be all done. I took off the 4 bolts holding the hub assembly to the knuckle and dremeled the stud from the back or the hub
Those lug nuts look super thin, I would replace the whole set with something a little beefier. Especially since you track your car and are constantly removing your wheels.
@@jbrockskill so you are telling me that the german bolts wich are a special hardened steel wich isn't braking are worse than breaking cheap nuts? Wheelnuts are 11.9 grade bolts if oem this nut looks weaker than a standard 8.9 grade nut... p.s. even if you overtorque and break a wheelbolt you can usually unbolt the remaining bolt stud with you fingers because there isn't any deformation on the thread itself
Christian H. I’m saying they have better clamping force. Also my main point was it’s a lot easier to fuck shit up with impacts than using a breaker bar and just a ratchet.
Good job. Had that happen on my E36 M3. Long story short, had to change the hub cause that sucker wasn’t coming off. Having the right drill bits and drill makes a world of difference.
My 88 YJ had 5 all together that were like welded to the OEM rims. The lug nuts friggin break in half. I have 1 1/2 left to drill out. I put anti-seize on the ones that did breal loose because last year i had 2 stuck and drilled out and put it all bavk together and now a year later 5 stuck. I am changing rims because if it happens again. All I can say is W.Va. has some nice cliffs.
Next time try the 5 piece Twist Sockets set 1/2" from ABN ( Auto Body Now ). It comes with 12mm, 17mm, 19mm, 21mm, 22mm and a drift punch. I used this set to take off a stripped 02 Sensor and recently stripped wheel lugs. Took them right off and didn't hurt the stud. But the lug will be a loss but only take a minute to take off. Hope this helps.
Now finally some one that understands why I did it the way i did. Definitely didn't want a wrench also stuck on the inside but. That ould be the perfect tool to help double nut to take something off.
Great job getting that off. I haven't had problems with my mh studs or nuts. I always break the nuts with a breaker. then zip them off with the impact afterwards. Glad to see nothing was damaged either.
That is why all my life lug bolts and lug studs are but on with hand tools and than torqued, you did do a great job of not losing your cool and destroying you rim. Wrench on
.. GREAT and very informative video...thanks for actually taking the time to film this extremely demanding task and sharing with the world... Stuart (Glasgow, Scotland)
i had the same thing happened to me about two weeks ago... there are some some sockets to remove stripped or broken nuts... just hammering them in they will dig onto the nut and then just wrench them out actually easier than it looks
I feel your pain. I just went through the same deal with a brake hose that snapped in the caliper. Makes you think why the hell you bother with cars in the middle of it!
@@BlakesGarage Yep. Tried removing it, but it was seized to the caliper. Rust in Norway with these salty winter roads is not exactly uncommon, I'm afraid 😫
@@AndrewLeet92 same thing happened to me, with bleeder valves, tried to bleed the brakes from the brake line, no luck, had to buy a pair of calipers, I'm in Canada same thing salty winters
THANKS ALOT FOR TAKING THE TIME AND MAKING THIS VIDEO . YOU SAVED ME ALOT OF MONEY AND HELPED ME GET SOM GOOD OLE 1 ON 1 WITH MY BABY .!! GOOD LOOKS MY BOY!!
I currently have the same problem with my BlackRhino rim lug. I’m going to try drilling it out and try using an air die grinder with a cone shaped grinding stone to slowly widen the hole to get the rest of the lug off. I tried and stopped using a hole saw because it’s going to dig into my rim hole bevel.
Update: it was a success. After pilot drilling with a titanium 1/4” bit, it was a little off centered, but then I used a Dremel tool with a narrow stone bit to center my pilot, wetting the stone with water on the lowest speed. Then, I used the narrowest step drill bit from Harbor Freight and kept hammering my tire on the side to eventually sheer whatever that was left to get the wheel off. Slow drilling on low speed, high torque, with frequent WD-40 and water to cool the bit paid off!
umm to do the double nut thing properly, you need to turn the inside nut only, not both or they will both come off at the same time...as you found out. the inner nut pushes against the outer and gives the break away torque.
Pretty much what I'm doing now except its the bolt that holds the wheel bearing on. Using crappy bits but almost there. I hope I don't ruin the cupped area. Glad you made it through the car hell. Nice work! I need a miracle 😂
Well done man! that was a complete and total nightmare.... Just an FYI, avoid lubricating lug bolts. The lubricant will result is over-torquing because it lowers the coefficient of friction
Pro Tip: The elbow joint in the breaker bar is there to flip the bar to the opposite side for your next turn without having to pop the socket off and reapply each time lol.
What you were doing is not the double nut method. You need to just grab the inner nut which then jams against the outer. If you put a socket over both it just loosens both. Now you have little room to work so I understand the frustration.
Yeah I understand that but then I wouldn’t be able to get the wrench off. That’s why I try to smash the two nuts together and then line them up so I can put the rent over both so that the bolt wouldn’t get stuck on the side. The part where I at the ranch on the inside piece that was what I was saying this is a stupid idea because I felt like I was going to mark up the wheel due to the fact of not being able to get the wrench off. And then I wouldn’t be able to drive the car because the rent would be attached to my wheel.
They have a tool just for this its tapered and It bites into the rounded out nut. They even have ones that you hammer on to take off security nuts (the factory ones)
dealership over torqued my lugs on my '18 EcoBoost mustang performance pack wheels. sheared 4 off trying to take off my back wheels. it's always something.
I didn't remove the wheels on my 2013 for about 18 mos. and then got a flat on the RR. I could not get the wheel to come off even with no lug bolts at all as the aluminum was seized to the rotor. I even re-installed the lugs loose and drove on it and nothing. I had a hell of a time getting that damn wheel off, used all the tricks, pounding around the wheel, etc. Lots of swearing until it finally gave up. Your car has some kind of aftermarket studs/lug nuts instead of BMW lug bolts and I have always wondered which setup was superior. Kind of think the lug bolts might be better. I always use a torque wrench when installing wheels. After that last fiasco, I got new rear rotors and pads and applied never seize on the face of the rotor. Oh, and now I will never wait so long to at least rotate my tires ever again.
I had one like this, similar at least a couple weeks ago at work. The stud was just spinning inside the wheel bearing. I ended up just taking the whole wheel bearing off and drilling it out from back side with the rim still attached.
I have to do this to 5 fucking studs. I've been drilling hardened steel for literally 14 hours. I can't lift the drill anymore. My arms and back hurts. I am about to find a telephone pole for this car.
Ever hear of an annular cutter? It removes material around the outside of a center or pilot which would be exactly what you need in this situation. Look them up!
This happened to me too on my Lexus IS . My rear stud had no more “bite” and became loose with my lug nut. Couldn’t take wheel off so had to drill the stud and break lug nut
there was an allen on the end of the stud 1/2 inch allen socket could have helped also could have saved some time with bolt extractors set preferably the ones that rip into existing threads work at vw see this more often that I care to admit also people tend to strip there key lugs but that's a different story but none the less you got the wheel off without damaging it good on you.
Awesome work getting that off, similar situation here. I however just made a small leveled rig for my corded drill to slowly pull the bit out and add high sulfur oil as lubricant and then repeat, that cutting oil works best for hardened steel and cheaper than buying expensive bits. Cheapo harbor freight bits worked for me but took a good 30 minutes to do. Those OEM Ford lug nuts are crap!
any recommendations on brands of oil? my mustang had one shear off my wheel stud and it’s been a nightmare since the car sat for a while and the front tires got flat it has a terrible vibration going down the road
the double nut technique would have worked if you did it right. You're supposed to only apply force to the bottom nut while the top nut stays put....that's the whole point of the method... moving both at the same time with a socket over both is just taking both nuts off at the same time. Also why you using an industrial application tool for your car lugs torqued under 100lbs? The 3/8ths driver is more than enough for car lugs, I have the stubby and its rated for 250lbs, I'm sure your full size is similar.
OK so how exactly do you get a wrench on the back bolt? There ain’t shit for a room. Also yeah I know I don’t usually torque the studs high at all. However for removing a bolt high torque is usually just fine. Obviously needed the torque because it still wouldn’t have come off. Get what I’m saying? Obviously that is the correct technique for double nothing and it’s very easy to do when installing a stud however when you’re removing it and you don’t have much thread to get another wrench behind it it doesn’t really work man.
@@BlakesGarage It looks like you got a wrench on the back nut at the 4:35 mark, not sure if it was on the front nut at the same time, hard to tell from the angle, maybe 2 nuts not as thick would have worked though probably harder to find. Obviously not that it matters now, just looked like a severe pain in the dickhole to get that bolt off. And yeah I get the high torque needed to get it off but that half inch driver is a beast, all kinds of sheering forces respective to the strength of the fasteners. I saw a review with some dude pulling huge rusted bolts off heavy machinery in a junkyard with that thing.
No it’s not. But really I can’t blame it on the actual studs or Lugnuts themselves. It’s just a bad situation it can happen with any stud or any nut ever. Basically it just goes to show you the power of those Milwaukee impact guns. And you really don’t know how much torque is applying until it’s too late. If I knew it was doing that before it happened. I probably would’ve just torched the nut And it probably would have come off.
Blake's Garage true true. With my conversion kit I changed to those long lug nuts cuz I am alfraid this might hapeen. Good it came off by the end and nothing is broken. Any plan for the s3？
Was about to comment on the drill battery, until you mentioned it at the end lol. Almost had this issue with the RS, lug nuts were over torqued at the dealership, luckily for me it didn't get this bad.
Double probably would have worked had you been able to apply counter clockwise torque on the inner nut of the two. The outer would keep it from being able to turn without the stud. With your breaker bar you were turning both studs in unison causing it to act like a single nut
This happened to me yesterday. The nut that holds my spacer on is tapered at the end and the tapered part sheared off and stayed inside of the spacer while the other half stayed inside of it.
Another idea is to cut a chisel to where it would fit in your wheel. Take it to a bench and sharpen the HELL out of it, then cut the bolt by hammering it on to opposite ends. This worked for me once but we had access to a very good bandsaw to cut the tool steel chisel. Never using aluminum lug nuts again. Not that they aren't strong it's just that they corrode to your studs if they are different metals. I learned about galvanic corrosion that day lol
I'm thinking another way is to cut the pop out screw end, then use a stripe lug nut tool to bite the hex screw head. You did a good job looks no scratch was done to the wheel
Thanks, that was actually going to be my last method as I feel it would have definitely damaged the wheel where the lug nut seats because of the angle.
I always take the wheels from my nice car to the tire garage i would never let them unbolt or bolt on my wheels. I once had a tire garage jack up my car but the plate on the jack was so large it crushed part of my cars floor before it even touched the jacking point..
I would’ve looked for one of those locking nuts that have the teeth on the bottom of them, tightened it against the broken lug nut and tried to back it out
i had the anti-theft key and stud strip. i barely got the other 3 off with the fucked key. i eventually welded a short 1/2" extension to it to get it off. welded numerous nuts, a socket that was pounded on. took 3 hours
I've had to deal with this so many times at work... Only thing I didn't see you try was find an empty parking lot, remove all the other lug nuts on that wheel, and do figure 8's until you feel it start to come loose. That worked a couple times for me.
Had a similar issue with a spinning stud on a 2016 accord rear wheel. I had to remove the hub and caliper then welded the stud from the back my bolt was intact I was able to breaker bar the fucker loose
And this is why you shouldn't use impact tools to unscrew/screw any small bolts or nuts. I unscrew my bolts 12mmx1.5mm with a impact drill and they started breaking after that.
I was looking at the "lug ripper" cool tool that shoud have been used. How ever i dont own that ....i do own a magdrill with different size of annular bits. I'd say that would work well too
Had some shitty OEM Ford lugs starting to slowly strip away on my Focus RS. Replaced them with some tough Gorilla lugs before something like this scenario were to happen.
Mistah J I’m a service tech, I do the wheel nuts slightly with my dewalt impact then use my torque wrench, any tech that over does wheel bolts are just bad 🤷🏽♂️
Could you of cooled the stud and shrunk it slightly and then used the 2 nut technique, you need to be be using the inside nut to turn it out , not the outside.
Dang good job!👍👍👍👍 To think of all the Curse words i would have used and the things I would have destroyed in my rage😂 Dont think i could have done it. Replace all those lug nuts made with inferior steel👍
@blakesgarage did you get the ecs tuning studs? They look exactly like mine, and I’m in the exact same spot. They are just crappy bolts because I’ve always torqued them to proper spec. Looks like it’s going to kill my track day tomorrow.
No this is something that can happen with any brand. This was a tire shop issue not a stud issue. Good luck with a lot of perseverance you can do it!!👍🏼👍🏼🏁🏁
@@BlakesGarage the next day, I got the whole stud out really easy with an extractor. Did ruin my track day but I definitely blame the cheap ecs bolts. Upgraded bimmerworlds on the way.
Man you were actually pretty calm. I would have been dropping way more F bombs lol.
Dude i would have fuckt my shit op and flip the shop
I'd say there was a lot of editing required...
misterchonger
you need help, you fit right in at trump rallys
So sorry this happened to you. A few years ago this happened to me at a well known shop after a slow leak my tire. They patched it the right way by taking the tire off the rim to apply the patch. I was watching the shop guy put it back on and he started all the lugs with an impact gun instead of by hand. Got back to the house and grabbed my torque wrench to tighten to factory spec.3 of them would not move and didn’t want to break off. Took it right back in and said I can’t get the wheel off. They took it in and broke off 3 studs removing the lug nuts. They came back at me saying the studs broke and wanted some cash to replace them. Told the front desk man “hell no, you were the guys who fixed the tire and the last ones to touch it so I will wait here for you to fix it”. They gave my my keys back within an hour free of charge.
David Wiley garages suck these days man,even dealerships do bad work,I try and do everything my self these days
@@daibennett9224 yet people always end up bringing there vehicles to us. One time I had a customer do the timing belt on their car because we were "overcharging" them so they decided to it themselves. To make the story short vent valves guess who had to swap the engine this guy. So before you tackle a job make sure you have really good knowledge on what youre about to do
thats just shitty technicians that just are lazy and rushing the job. the true ones that care to do the job right would do it correctly. At the good Mercedes Benz dealerships, if a tech screwed up a vehicle and it was sent back, the same tech that fucked up would have to redo the job again and he won't be getting paid off it.
What's the average cost to fix this? I have a CRV. Should I take it to tire shop or my mechanic?
You need to be applying the force to the inside nut. ( the one you had the box end wrench on when jamming the two nuts together). And it will come right off.
Yes he does not know how that works
He had the correct idea, and had the outside nut been a smaller diameter, and not spun by the socket, it would have worked perfectly.
I literally missed a track day because of this this past weekend. Nothing like being 4 hours away from your tools and having to ask other racers to borrow. Not gonna lie had a racer give me a hole saw that’s the same side as the Stud and drill down as much as you can. It was actually a genius idea.
Ahh good idea
Dude god bless you man, I would’ve been cursing left and right.
I had this happen on the Subaru thanks to a shop over torquing it. I went a different route. Sounded difficult but took all of 10 mins to be all done. I took off the 4 bolts holding the hub assembly to the knuckle and dremeled the stud from the back or the hub
For anyone who may run into this same issue like me… I used a 3/4 deep hole saw and it drilled the lug nut enough for me to remove the wheel!
Those lug nuts look super thin, I would replace the whole set with something a little beefier. Especially since you track your car and are constantly removing your wheels.
Yeah its called factory hardware withouth studs so this shit wouldnt happen
@@neamanja Studs and lugs are far superior than just the typical german wheel bolts. Don't be weak and use a breaker bar and this doesn't happen
Or just use a bolt extractor and zippity zap no hours of drilling
@@jbrockskill so you are telling me that the german bolts wich are a special hardened steel wich isn't braking are worse than breaking cheap nuts? Wheelnuts are 11.9 grade bolts if oem this nut looks weaker than a standard 8.9 grade nut... p.s. even if you overtorque and break a wheelbolt you can usually unbolt the remaining bolt stud with you fingers because there isn't any deformation on the thread itself
Christian H. I’m saying they have better clamping force. Also my main point was it’s a lot easier to fuck shit up with impacts than using a breaker bar and just a ratchet.
Good job. Had that happen on my E36 M3. Long story short, had to change the hub cause that sucker wasn’t coming off. Having the right drill bits and drill makes a world of difference.
bolt extractor socket ?? grab the stud ??
2 minutes with a torch and your done. Proper technique leaves wheel flawless.
...lost art
My 88 YJ had 5 all together that were like welded to the OEM rims. The lug nuts friggin break in half. I have 1 1/2 left to drill out. I put anti-seize on the ones that did breal loose because last year i had 2 stuck and drilled out and put it all bavk together and now a year later 5 stuck. I am changing rims because if it happens again. All I can say is W.Va. has some nice cliffs.
Next time try the 5 piece Twist Sockets set 1/2" from ABN ( Auto Body Now ). It comes with 12mm, 17mm, 19mm, 21mm, 22mm and a drift punch. I used this set to take off a stripped 02 Sensor and recently stripped wheel lugs. Took them right off and didn't hurt the stud. But the lug will be a loss but only take a minute to take off. Hope this helps.
Now finally some one that understands why I did it the way i did. Definitely didn't want a wrench also stuck on the inside but. That ould be the perfect tool to help double nut to take something off.
Great job getting that off. I haven't had problems with my mh studs or nuts. I always break the nuts with a breaker. then zip them off with the impact afterwards. Glad to see nothing was damaged either.
That is why all my life lug bolts and lug studs are but on with hand tools and than torqued, you did do a great job of not losing your cool and destroying you rim. Wrench on
Thaks yep I got my tires replaced two days prior and they just zipped them on with an impact gun.
..
GREAT and very informative video...thanks for actually taking the time to film this extremely demanding task and sharing with the world...
Stuart (Glasgow, Scotland)
No problem glad you enjoyed 👍🏼
i had the same thing happened to me about two weeks ago... there are some some sockets to remove stripped or broken nuts... just hammering them in they will dig onto the nut and then just wrench them out actually easier than it looks
I feel your pain. I just went through the same deal with a brake hose that snapped in the caliper. Makes you think why the hell you bother with cars in the middle of it!
Oh man that’s no fun. Did you have to replace the caliper?
@@BlakesGarage Yep. Tried removing it, but it was seized to the caliper. Rust in Norway with these salty winter roads is not exactly uncommon, I'm afraid 😫
@@AndrewLeet92 same thing happened to me, with bleeder valves, tried to bleed the brakes from the brake line, no luck, had to buy a pair of calipers, I'm in Canada same thing salty winters
THANKS ALOT FOR TAKING THE TIME AND MAKING THIS VIDEO . YOU SAVED ME ALOT OF MONEY AND HELPED ME GET SOM GOOD OLE 1 ON 1 WITH MY BABY .!! GOOD LOOKS MY BOY!!
I never use locking bolts now, too much hassle if someone overtightens them and the key becomes trash!
I currently have the same problem with my BlackRhino rim lug. I’m going to try drilling it out and try using an air die grinder with a cone shaped grinding stone to slowly widen the hole to get the rest of the lug off. I tried and stopped using a hole saw because it’s going to dig into my rim hole bevel.
Update: it was a success. After pilot drilling with a titanium 1/4” bit, it was a little off centered, but then I used a Dremel tool with a narrow stone bit to center my pilot, wetting the stone with water on the lowest speed. Then, I used the narrowest step drill bit from Harbor Freight and kept hammering my tire on the side to eventually sheer whatever that was left to get the wheel off. Slow drilling on low speed, high torque, with frequent WD-40 and water to cool the bit paid off!
umm to do the double nut thing properly, you need to turn the inside nut only, not both or they will both come off at the same time...as you found out. the inner nut pushes against the outer and gives the break away torque.
I once drilled out a striped flat screw that holds the rotor. Pretty nerve wracking. Your tactic came out flawless. Well done sir
Pretty much what I'm doing now except its the bolt that holds the wheel bearing on. Using crappy bits but almost there. I hope I don't ruin the cupped area. Glad you made it through the car hell. Nice work! I need a miracle 😂
At the end of the way, we still find the old tools very useful and life saving.
Well done man! that was a complete and total nightmare.... Just an FYI, avoid lubricating lug bolts. The lubricant will result is over-torquing because it lowers the coefficient of friction
Wow !!!!!!!!! What a Job that was ......I was even cheering for you when you got it Out .........................
Thanks Elias👍🏼👍🏼 Yeah not fun but I made it happen.
Pro Tip: The elbow joint in the breaker bar is there to flip the bar to the opposite side for your next turn without having to pop the socket off and reapply each time lol.
What you were doing is not the double nut method. You need to just grab the inner nut which then jams against the outer. If you put a socket over both it just loosens both. Now you have little room to work so I understand the frustration.
Yeah I understand that but then I wouldn’t be able to get the wrench off. That’s why I try to smash the two nuts together and then line them up so I can put the rent over both so that the bolt wouldn’t get stuck on the side. The part where I at the ranch on the inside piece that was what I was saying this is a stupid idea because I felt like I was going to mark up the wheel due to the fact of not being able to get the wrench off. And then I wouldn’t be able to drive the car because the rent would be attached to my wheel.
They have a tool just for this its tapered and It bites into the rounded out nut. They even have ones that you hammer on to take off security nuts (the factory ones)
dealership over torqued my lugs on my '18 EcoBoost mustang performance pack wheels. sheared 4 off trying to take off my back wheels. it's always something.
I didn't remove the wheels on my 2013 for about 18 mos. and then got a flat on the RR. I could not get the wheel to come off even with no lug bolts at all as the aluminum was seized to the rotor. I even re-installed the lugs loose and drove on it and nothing. I had a hell of a time getting that damn wheel off, used all the tricks, pounding around the wheel, etc. Lots of swearing until it finally gave up.
Your car has some kind of aftermarket studs/lug nuts instead of BMW lug bolts and I have always wondered which setup was superior. Kind of think the lug bolts might be better.
I always use a torque wrench when installing wheels. After that last fiasco, I got new rear rotors and pads and applied never seize on the face of the rotor. Oh, and now I will never wait so long to at least rotate my tires ever again.
I had one like this, similar at least a couple weeks ago at work. The stud was just spinning inside the wheel bearing. I ended up just taking the whole wheel bearing off and drilling it out from back side with the rim still attached.
I have to do this to 5 fucking studs. I've been drilling hardened steel for literally 14 hours. I can't lift the drill anymore. My arms and back hurts. I am about to find a telephone pole for this car.
Ever hear of an annular cutter? It removes material around the outside of a center or pilot which would be exactly what you need in this situation. Look them up!
This happened to me too on my Lexus IS . My rear stud had no more “bite” and became loose with my lug nut. Couldn’t take wheel off so had to drill the stud and break lug nut
Same here.No.bite on all 5 lug nuts on my yukon.Had to Destroy my wheel
there was an allen on the end of the stud 1/2 inch allen socket could have helped also could have saved some time with bolt extractors set preferably the ones that rip into existing threads work at vw see this more often that I care to admit also people tend to strip there key lugs but that's a different story but none the less you got the wheel off without damaging it good on you.
You are sooo patient dude, respect !
Awesome work getting that off, similar situation here. I however just made a small leveled rig for my corded drill to slowly pull the bit out and add high sulfur oil as lubricant and then repeat, that cutting oil works best for hardened steel and cheaper than buying expensive bits. Cheapo harbor freight bits worked for me but took a good 30 minutes to do. Those OEM Ford lug nuts are crap!
any recommendations on brands of oil? my mustang had one shear off my wheel stud and it’s been a nightmare since the car sat for a while and the front tires got flat it has a terrible vibration going down the road
the double nut technique would have worked if you did it right. You're supposed to only apply force to the bottom nut while the top nut stays put....that's the whole point of the method... moving both at the same time with a socket over both is just taking both nuts off at the same time. Also why you using an industrial application tool for your car lugs torqued under 100lbs? The 3/8ths driver is more than enough for car lugs, I have the stubby and its rated for 250lbs, I'm sure your full size is similar.
OK so how exactly do you get a wrench on the back bolt? There ain’t shit for a room. Also yeah I know I don’t usually torque the studs high at all. However for removing a bolt high torque is usually just fine. Obviously needed the torque because it still wouldn’t have come off. Get what I’m saying? Obviously that is the correct technique for double nothing and it’s very easy to do when installing a stud however when you’re removing it and you don’t have much thread to get another wrench behind it it doesn’t really work man.
@@BlakesGarage It looks like you got a wrench on the back nut at the 4:35 mark, not sure if it was on the front nut at the same time, hard to tell from the angle, maybe 2 nuts not as thick would have worked though probably harder to find. Obviously not that it matters now, just looked like a severe pain in the dickhole to get that bolt off. And yeah I get the high torque needed to get it off but that half inch driver is a beast, all kinds of sheering forces respective to the strength of the fasteners. I saw a review with some dude pulling huge rusted bolts off heavy machinery in a junkyard with that thing.
never use an impact driver on delicate bolts...happened to me...only use impacts on lorry size bolts...but good job my friend, well done
Wow I will be smashing that bolt the shops are fitting them too tight great video top work mate
As the nut was pretty much all sheared off, couldnt you have just knocked the wheel from the other side?
This happened to me a few years ago after the tire shop over tightened my lug nuts.. it was no fun drilling them out.. 😑
Is this the ecs tuning kit？The lug nut comes with the kit is trash
No it’s not. But really I can’t blame it on the actual studs or Lugnuts themselves. It’s just a bad situation it can happen with any stud or any nut ever. Basically it just goes to show you the power of those Milwaukee impact guns. And you really don’t know how much torque is applying until it’s too late. If I knew it was doing that before it happened. I probably would’ve just torched the nut And it probably would have come off.
Blake's Garage true true. With my conversion kit I changed to those long lug nuts cuz I am alfraid this might hapeen. Good it came off by the end and nothing is broken. Any plan for the s3？
Coulda tried drilling a hole right through the nut and bolt you welded on, screw in it then breaker bar.
I have always had luck welding a nut and zip it off with a impact, make sure the metals are clean of both the nut and the stud both have coatings
That's why you should always stick welding in those scenarios. More heat and way better contact .
Bolt extractor or a air chisel
Good job very calm and professional great ideal how to used different styles of how to do the job
With all that you had go through I am surprised that you didn't destroy that stud . Lucky man !
Rodman makes good bits... Good on flooring concrete too
Was about to comment on the drill battery, until you mentioned it at the end lol. Almost had this issue with the RS, lug nuts were over torqued at the dealership, luckily for me it didn't get this bad.
Lugs over torqued at a tire shop but not a BMW dealership. You usually get what you pay for.
Double probably would have worked had you been able to apply counter clockwise torque on the inner nut of the two. The outer would keep it from being able to turn without the stud. With your breaker bar you were turning both studs in unison causing it to act like a single nut
It would have been a million times easier if you used a proper metal drilling bit and not a concrete bit
The man's an idiot, I'm sure he also had the drill on hammer.
Thought the same thing. Less smoke and more shavings
Did you try an extractor ? Just wondering
This happened to me yesterday. The nut that holds my spacer on is tapered at the end and the tapered part sheared off and stayed inside of the spacer while the other half stayed inside of it.
Another idea is to cut a chisel to where it would fit in your wheel. Take it to a bench and sharpen the HELL out of it, then cut the bolt by hammering it on to opposite ends. This worked for me once but we had access to a very good bandsaw to cut the tool steel chisel. Never using aluminum lug nuts again. Not that they aren't strong it's just that they corrode to your studs if they are different metals. I learned about galvanic corrosion that day lol
I'm thinking another way is to cut the pop out screw end, then use a stripe lug nut tool to bite the hex screw head. You did a good job looks no scratch was done to the wheel
Thanks man yep kept the wheels in perfect condition along with the wheel hubs.
At harbor freight they sell a “thin chizzle cutter” that you could have used to chizzle the end of the lugnut in half
Thanks, that was actually going to be my last method as I feel it would have definitely damaged the wheel where the lug nut seats because of the angle.
Haven’t gotten all the way thru the video but what if you drill sideways thru the stud and put a Allen key or somthing thru the hole and twisted
I always take the wheels from my nice car to the tire garage i would never let them unbolt or bolt on my wheels. I once had a tire garage jack up my car but the plate on the jack was so large it crushed part of my cars floor before it even touched the jacking point..
I would’ve looked for one of those locking nuts that have the teeth on the bottom of them, tightened it against the broken lug nut and tried to back it out
Great idea. Easy to tighten, and grips when turning the other way.
Nice job bro... I had similar problem with safety nut... That drill is awesome...
i had the anti-theft key and stud strip. i barely got the other 3 off with the fucked key. i eventually welded a short 1/2" extension to it to get it off. welded numerous nuts, a socket that was pounded on. took 3 hours
This shit happened to me at work 2weeks ago we burned a cars stud off and damaged the wheel not easy at all
The double nut technique works if you apply the force on the INSIDE nut
How long did that take to complete drill thru it
I've had to deal with this so many times at work... Only thing I didn't see you try was find an empty parking lot, remove all the other lug nuts on that wheel, and do figure 8's until you feel it start to come loose. That worked a couple times for me.
Joshua Walker damn that’s sounds stupid enough to work 😹
Then you gotta buy a new tire
The center punch is spring loaded is it not ??
you should of use some kinda lubricant when you were drilling would of made it easy..
I was using cutting fluid.
Omg worst nightmare. Glad u had the right tools
Had a similar issue with a spinning stud on a 2016 accord rear wheel. I had to remove the hub and caliper then welded the stud from the back my bolt was intact I was able to breaker bar the fucker loose
And this is why you shouldn't use impact tools to unscrew/screw any small bolts or nuts. I unscrew my bolts 12mmx1.5mm with a impact drill and they started breaking after that.
Who else closed their eyes when he was wielding? Lol
Why not just use the stock bolts or real high quality
Stock bolts way to go
OMG!! my issue is a stud spins cuz the nut was crossthreaded. i have been w/o my car for 5 days
Im gonna try carbide burs and dremmel.
Takes breaker bar completely off instead of just flipping handle😂😂
Not trying to swing stuff around a 74k car.
I came to drop this comment... boy is new to tools. lol or road side repairs lol
Could’ve tried getting a long socket and cutting the end off so it had a flag end to the bolt instead of the tapered end that sockets usually have
I was looking at the "lug ripper" cool tool that shoud have been used. How ever i dont own that ....i do own a magdrill with different size of annular bits. I'd say that would work well too
www.amazon.com/Twist-Socket-Wheel-Remover-Extractor/dp/B01MDU3FQH
This is the fastest and easiest method
Had some shitty OEM Ford lugs starting to slowly strip away on my Focus RS. Replaced them with some tough Gorilla lugs before something like this scenario were to happen.
This is why it's important to tighten lug nuts with hand tools only.
These service technicians need to chill with those goddamn impact guns.
Mistah J I’m a service tech, I do the wheel nuts slightly with my dewalt impact then use my torque wrench, any tech that over does wheel bolts are just bad 🤷🏽♂️
Yeah most technicians over torque lug nuts
after all this trouble, would you still recommend motorsport hardware?
Good job mate. Sometimes you just have to improvise.
I recommend buying one piece titanium lug bolts. You will never have this issue again.
let me show you every car owners worst nightmare with lug nuts that nobody uses. this helped for sure....
Yeah, once I get mine off, I'm only using a torque wrench and breaker bar
All cars come stock with lug studs/nuts in USA?
15:42 this would be me..... damn... I'm glad I'm not the only one who reacts this way :-) I'm sitting here laughing my ass off brother. AWESOME
Haha right!! @$&$!!
I have this exact same problem as of now on my e92
had that. and im a noob when it to comes to car. and done it using breaker bar and those nut stud removers:)
I would have just called the car totaled by then if that happened to me
Need a carbide bit and slow speed
Could you of cooled the stud and shrunk it slightly and then used the 2 nut technique, you need to be be using the inside nut to turn it out , not the outside.
Dang good job!👍👍👍👍 To think of all the Curse words i would have used and the things I would have destroyed in my rage😂 Dont think i could have done it. Replace all those lug nuts made with inferior steel👍
I have the same issue right now on my 2013 f30 335
@blakesgarage did you get the ecs tuning studs? They look exactly like mine, and I’m in the exact same spot. They are just crappy bolts because I’ve always torqued them to proper spec.
Looks like it’s going to kill my track day tomorrow.
No this is something that can happen with any brand. This was a tire shop issue not a stud issue. Good luck with a lot of perseverance you can do it!!👍🏼👍🏼🏁🏁
@@BlakesGarage the next day, I got the whole stud out really easy with an extractor. Did ruin my track day but I definitely blame the cheap ecs bolts. Upgraded bimmerworlds on the way.
Happened to me a year ago i used a stick welder 7018 rod holded beautiful the nut came right off
Dang it look like you could’ve put a in allen wrench bit on the impact in the middle
Yeah that’s how they install. But that just striped out. You can’t get much torque with that.
this is why we use a ratchet and not a rattle gun kids
Having to do this but with aluminum lugs. Just 1😮