Just a note. I’m replying late on this video. I have 9 vintage now. Several with common bobbin cases. 2 of my machines wouldn’t make good stitches at all. I’m slowly learning cleaning, oiling, slightly taking apart. I had not found your video yet. I had taken apart and cleaned the bases and spring but then I noticed the springs were really flat on these 2. Like barely a curve. I slight bent them back to a C shape, very tiny bit, careful not to bend them out of shape. They both worked great again. It’s like the two owners kept tightening the screw over the years until they had no tension! Also on my Elna Carna despite many shop visits I stopped using it. How I started obtaining my vintage machines. I then went back after teaching maintainance to myself and took it apart and cleaned and oiled. In the bobbin case which was drop in, 2 tiny threads were wrapped around the screw and under the screw where the top mounted spring was. It was grinding so much I thought I broke some teeth on the bottom gears. So afraid to damage it more. It’s has worked like new since and I bought it in early 80s. I paid a lot to “get it fixed” and no one ever took that apart? The grinding came and went and I told them that. Paid $180 once for nothing! No longer!
Thanks for sharing this info on my channel. I pinned you comment to the top hoping others can learn what possible things to look for on their cases. I'm sorry for your poor repair experiences, but I have heard this many times. I started my channel and have made 500+ videos with the hope of helping people do their own maintenance and repairs and keep their vintage machines working well. Reading your comment, I feel validated in those efforts. I'm so glad you found my channel. It's kind of you to share your experience with all of us. Take care.
@@andytubesewing1953 You have been a god send to me Andy: I have got hold of several machines that were destined for the tip over the past few weeks and your channel has helped me immensely. Thank you for all you do, it is much appreciated.
@@andytubesewing1953 It is a joy to see them coming back to life. Having been given a more modern none working machine recently, it has also really made me appreciate the great quality in these machines compared to ones from the era when they moved across to plastic and thin metal.
@@kerry5586 It truly is a pleasure. Some family members learned the hard way not to bother with the new plastic machines and that it was better to buy a vintage one and rehab it completely one time and then you're good for 30 years of sewing.
Dear Andy, thank you again for all your lovely videos. I’ve learned, and am still learning, so much from them. Know that your wisdom - and your generosity in sharing it - have not only helped me repair and restore my vintage machines, they’ve helped me discover a new passion in doing so. My thoughts are with you and your loved ones. Peace be with you, sir.
... and also with you; thank you for that. From my very first Singer VSM restoration, I was hooked. Over the years it became my favorite hobby for pain relief and challenges. It is so rewarding and the only hobby I had that paid for itself. Thank you for the recognition and kind words. Take care.
Well that’s an awesome bit of kit! I’m always up for a new little gadget, I’ve tweaked mine along with the top tension but I’ll do it again when I have one 😁
Love your tutorial! I have sent my 401Slant-O-Matic in for the bobbin to be maintenanced too many times. Your help has now fixed my problems! ( needle hitting bobbin) Thank you very much!!!
I feel justified by your remark. Thank you very much.🙏 From the beginning of my channel I've tried to be realistic and show people what can go wrong and that you can absolutely work on these machines. I appreciate your kind remark and thanks for watching my channel.
I want to thank you and say that I have enjoyed watching you work on the sewing machine which it helped me a lot I've been looking forward to learning how to do the things that you do to your sewing machines hope I get to know more about sewing machines like you have thank you
A really nice comment, Felix, and thank you. I hope you enjoy it as much as I have. I recently reorganized my Playlist Page to contain most of my 600 videos. The first playlists are by type of repair and then the following playlists are by model number. th-cam.com/channels/USPDsHaFtRoz1VA2U1xJ4w.htmlplaylists I appreciate you watching my channel. Good luck.
I inherited my mother's 401A and have been using it for many years. It was driving me nuts trying to adjust the tension. Lots of looping on the bottom stitch and breaking thread. This video solved the problem. I took the spring off the bobbin case and sure enough there was a wad of smutz under the adjustment screw ( I could not get any tension on the bobbin thread). Also gave the groove a good cleaning. Now it's working great, perfect stitches and no more rattling. Thanks tons!
I glad you found the video, Doug. Thanks for fixing that incredible family machine. Nice of you to take time and comment. Stop by when you can. Model 401A videos: th-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKLiDl9yFTP6mJgQmz5lj4NO.html Speed up your old motor: th-cam.com/video/pzq4tv8qn94/w-d-xo.html Is your old foot pedal a little hesitant? th-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKL6ePPxLpmnWSzTyxPKTb71.html Take care and happy sewing.
@@andytubesewing1953 I also have a model 15-91 made in St. John Canada that is in beautiful condition. Saved it from going to the dump about 40 years ago. Also have a Red Eye treadle that still works great.
Thank you, Andy, for another helpful video. After cleaning and zeroing out the tension assembly on my new 401, I was still having bad stitches. The bobbin thread was visible on top even with the tension set to 0 & turning it up made things worse. I took to the bobbin case for cleaning and adjustment.... and while making a guess at what 1oz of pull was like, I decided to tie on a 1oz fishing weight and dangle it over the edge of the table as i adjusted the tension spring screw to the point where the bobbin would release slack with a slight touch or jiggle. maybe not an accurate method, but my stitches are now looking like they should and Im at 3 on the tension dial. ....adding a pocket postal scale to my shopping cart for future adjustments.
Nicely done, Mr. Lee. Your method may be one of the most accurate. The two retired Singer repairmen I know said they used lead weights. I'm happy you corrected your machne and thanks for keeping it sewing.
Got my meter yesterday and have set a few bobbin cases, you’re right, it can be a little tricky. I’ve since learned never to touch that adjustment screw again 😂
@@andytubesewing1953 Andy, I got a new bobbin case for my 413 (plastic) yesterday and unfortunately it wasn’t set at the 1 oz mark. I thought new bobbin cases were pre set. Have you ever had to reset a new bobbin case…just so I’ll know for the future. Thanks.
@@rhondamercado7527 Those same SInger repairmen told me that into the '70s Singer shipped the machines to the SInger Stores. At those stores, the repair men/women would clean them up removing any protective grease/oil, and "fine tune" the machine. This often included installing or adjusting the Tension Assemblies, and the spool pins, and testing the timing and bobbin case tension. The timing & BC tension was tested and set by humans back then. The plastic BC you bought is mass-produced overseas somewhere and the tension is "approximate" as far as I can tell. The ones I bought were about a 50/50 chance of being OK. Some models have a recommended BC tension higher than 1 oz, too. I always just test sewed and went from there if I felt they needed adjusting. I do remember an occasional BC that was missing the tension screw, or even the tension spring, haha.
Thank you for another tutorial! The tiny "Simanco" screwdriver you use sells for $10 to $25! Isn't that crazy? I was fortunate to get one with a machine I bought. (I also got a bunch of specialty feet!)
thanks for watching. I see the prices for vintage machines and attachments, etc. keeps going up. I actually received an email blaming me for making them so attractive that "too many" people are buying and fixing them. I admitted it was the goal of my channel to encourage people to save the machines, so guess I'm guilty. It's always a bonus when buying a machine to find the "stuff", like tools and feet and cams that sellers include. Congrats! Nice of you to comment.
What screwdrivers do you recommend for working on vintage machines? I’m finding some tight spots too small for regular drivers. I have a one with changeable tips (hollow ground), but it’s still too big/long. Haven’t had an issue loosening screws, it has enough torque, but sometimes I need a shorter handle. I’m “going to school” learning how to restore & refurbish these old machines using your videos! Thanks so much for helping us save these machines for the next generation!
Hi, Liz. Thanks for your question, and for watching my channel. I mostly use two sets, one I've had for a while and one newer addition. The first is this one: chapmanmfg.com/collections/slotted-flathead-sets/products/9600-starter-slotted-bit-set I use the little spinner in tight places and also the mini-ratchet when more power is needed. The latest one I bought is here: www.wheelertools.com/gunsmithing-tools/wrenches-and-screwdrivers/43-piece-professional-gunsmithing-screwdriver-set/954621.html A viewer recommended it and I like it. The handle is more comfortable and it has plenty of bits, all magnetized. I found I can exchange many of the bits to handles in both sets also. Since you mention a need for shorter handles please take a look at these "Stubby" drivers from Chapman. There only 2.5" long and cost about $1.00 each. I have not tried them, but have had people tell me they like them as they have the same Chapman bits, but just a 2" handle. chapmanmfg.com/collections/stubby-screwdrivers-mini-screwdrivers If you have an interest, here are links to the two videos I made about the screwdriver sets above. The Chapman set video: th-cam.com/video/KnrvDZeaYj4/w-d-xo.html The Wheeler set video: th-cam.com/video/7_DHIC6eskc/w-d-xo.html You may be able to find these sets on Amazon or eBay too, IDK. Best of luck and don't be a stranger to Andy Tube now that you found it, OK?
I just recently did battle with those two screws, only to learn that the tension screw was stripped. Ordered a whole bobbin case assembly in hopes that the tension parts are good. It was only five bucks. It's for a 1917 red eye treadle.
I thought the $5 was a typo until I saw the 1917 red eye info. You can buy new tension screws but they cost (with shipping) more than $5. I hope it works out for you. Good luck, and thanks for watching my channel.
I needed this video a lot. My 401A is not cooperating with upholstery thread on the bobbin. It shows that it is too tight in the stitch. I loosened it so much that screw fell out. When I took apart to retighten, I broke that tiny piece off at the end of the spring. Can I buy one of your extras you said you had?
Sorry to hear that, Marie. I'm not yet selling parts. Two of the Three sellers of replacement bobbin tension springs do not sell them any longer. The spring is part # 172202. Here is one seller I know of www.singeronline.com/sibocatesp17.html I see the price is $10 now. You can also buy used vintage bobbin cases from eBay. Her is one as an example: www.ebay.com/itm/GENUINE-SINGER-401-403-404-500-503-SEWING-BOBBIN-CASE-HOLDER-SIMANCO-172082/153604181115?hash=item23c385cc7b:g:4k8AAOSwmAJdHBDc:sc:USPSFirstClass!85282!US!-1 It is $19 but you get the whole bobbin case including the spring and screws. They even include the bobbin case positioning spring. Personally, I would buy that one. You can also find sellers in China selling bobbin cases cheaply if you do not mind a longer shipping time: www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=singer+model+401+bobbin+case&_sacat=0&LH_TitleDesc=0&_osacat=0&_odkw=singer+bobbin+case+172083
Just need a little clarification on the krud kutter. Your clip shows a spray bottle of krud kutter, are you deluting that into another bottle or using it straight from the store bought spray bottle? Also can you use it on plastic, if so at what delution? Tomorrow I'm taking the tension assembly off my 328k, first time 😃 Thank you! I wouldn't have tried without your videos.
So the dilution percentage depends on the surface I'm cleaning. I usually buy KK in the gallon size. As stated in this video, for cleaning the bobbin case I use about a 15% solution. I use stronger solutions on metal parts that are dirtier with oil/grease all the way up to 100% KK on slant-O-Matic steel gears that are impacted with dark grease. I'm not sure what solution % is in the spray bottle. I only bought one of those, then went to the gallon. The caution with using KK is for painted surfaces as it will dull paint. On the body of a machine, I only use 10 to 15% solution and wash it off immediately. I stopped using KK on the painted dials of tension units b/c of fading. If you're just going to clean the tension unit you don't even need KK but can just use liquid dish soap in warm water, like Dawn. It works well on tension parts and will not hurt the dials. You can also use rubbing alcohol to clean the tension unit. Tension assemblies usually are not greasy or oily and are easy to clean. I just use KK b/c I've got it on hand. I do use it to clean plastic parts and it works well. a 10 to 20% solution depending on how greasy it is. Over the years I have learned I do not need as strong a solution as I thought. I've had people tell me they bought a 4oz bottle of it www.homedepot.com/p/Krud-Kutter-4-oz-Original-Concentrated-Cleaner-Degreaser-291528/203086056 and mixed it into about a gallon of water and cleaned their machine with it and different sized brushes then washed it with the hose/shower. I would not use it on a Black painted Singer body. I've been told it can damage the older style black finish. You can see a Dilution Chart for KK here: www.rustoleum.com/-/media/DigitalEncyclopedia/Documents/RustoleumUSA/Product-Documents/Charts/Original_KK_Dilution_Reference_Chart.ashx and a Directions for Use chart, with dilutions, here: www.rustoleum.com/-/media/DigitalEncyclopedia/Documents/RustoleumUSA/instruction-sheets/krud-kutter/original-krud-kutter-Krud-Kutter-Original-How.ashx God Luck, Catherine, and thanks for watching my channel.
@@andytubesewing1953 Thank you for all the details. I'm just finishing your 401 tension video now. I took apart my 328k and found the tension indicator is broken in the middle. I haven't been able to find a replacement on line....I might see if I can fix it with epoxy. I have a 348 that was giving me trouble and opened up the tension and the stop washer was behind the beehive spring. I bet you've seen your share of crazy stuff on old machines. Thanks again for all the wonderful videos.
@@BurgardPottery The only aftermarket indicator dial I know of is www.sewingpartsonline.com/tension-singer-422403-455.aspx It is for the 600 models and no idea if it would work for you b/c they are all a little different. The most successful fix I've heard of from a handful of people is pounding a small paperclip wire flat and cutting a piece to fix and gluing in place. You can find used 328K tension units on eBay, but who knows the condition of that bar? Yes, some crazy stuff for sure. A model 401A that was lubed with olive oil. An eBay machine I ordered from Texas that arrived in Arizona with live spiders inside. A machine advertised as "tested and sews well" arrived without a motor installed. A customer brought a machine for repair who said it "just stopped making stitches" only to find there was no hook installed. Just a few.
Do you have a video which illustrates how to remove the bobbin case from the machine? I know there is some kind of clip there but not sure how to get to it. Thanks!
I do! Start at about 26:33 of this video: th-cam.com/video/oCdolwD4F8Q/w-d-xo.html Here are all the videos for this model: th-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKKHFzTFVJrwVQT6hMfXxFHt.html Thanks for watching my channel. Good Luck, Shana
Greetings, Frank. Usually mixed with water. General body cleaning about 15%. Parts like a bobbin case or needle bar you can soak in 25% KK. the more greasy and dried gunk, the higher %. I will use up to100% on steel gears of a 401A for example, b/c the gunk gets ground into the teeth. It also depends if you're in a hurry. Then the stronger % the quicker you can clean.
Although I rarely have had to adjust the bobbin tension in all the machines I have refurbished and kept, your video was great! I would like to know how you would go about sharpening the thread cutter on the pressure foot bar as my Singer 328K is extremely dull. I also see you have a little magnetic gadget in this video I would be interested in buying for myself if you would kindly share where to purchase. Thank you Andy!
Rita: if you are referring to the black-ish MAGnetizer / DEMAGnetizer gadget... use Google to search for: HUSKY Precision Magnetizer deMagnetizer and my search found it for about $4 at HomeDepot... MANY others are avail for $4-5 and more! ... good luck.
Just a note. I’m replying late on this video. I have 9 vintage now. Several with common bobbin cases. 2 of my machines wouldn’t make good stitches at all. I’m slowly learning cleaning, oiling, slightly taking apart. I had not found your video yet. I had taken apart and cleaned the bases and spring but then I noticed the springs were really flat on these 2. Like barely a curve. I slight bent them back to a C shape, very tiny bit, careful not to bend them out of shape. They both worked great again. It’s like the two owners kept tightening the screw over the years until they had no tension! Also on my Elna Carna despite many shop visits I stopped using it. How I started obtaining my vintage machines. I then went back after teaching maintainance to myself and took it apart and cleaned and oiled. In the bobbin case which was drop in, 2 tiny threads were wrapped around the screw and under the screw where the top mounted spring was. It was grinding so much I thought I broke some teeth on the bottom gears. So afraid to damage it more. It’s has worked like new since and I bought it in early 80s. I paid a lot to “get it fixed” and no one ever took that apart? The grinding came and went and I told them that. Paid $180 once for nothing! No longer!
Thanks for sharing this info on my channel. I pinned you comment to the top hoping others can learn what possible things to look for on their cases. I'm sorry for your poor repair experiences, but I have heard this many times. I started my channel and have made 500+ videos with the hope of helping people do their own maintenance and repairs and keep their vintage machines working well. Reading your comment, I feel validated in those efforts. I'm so glad you found my channel. It's kind of you to share your experience with all of us. Take care.
@@andytubesewing1953 You have been a god send to me Andy: I have got hold of several machines that were destined for the tip over the past few weeks and your channel has helped me immensely. Thank you for all you do, it is much appreciated.
@@kerry5586 Thanks, Kerry. I appreciate your comments, and that you are saving those machines.
@@andytubesewing1953 It is a joy to see them coming back to life. Having been given a more modern none working machine recently, it has also really made me appreciate the great quality in these machines compared to ones from the era when they moved across to plastic and thin metal.
@@kerry5586 It truly is a pleasure. Some family members learned the hard way not to bother with the new plastic machines and that it was better to buy a vintage one and rehab it completely one time and then you're good for 30 years of sewing.
Dear Andy, thank you again for all your lovely videos. I’ve learned, and am still learning, so much from them. Know that your wisdom - and your generosity in sharing it - have not only helped me repair and restore my vintage machines, they’ve helped me discover a new passion in doing so. My thoughts are with you and your loved ones. Peace be with you, sir.
... and also with you; thank you for that. From my very first Singer VSM restoration, I was hooked. Over the years it became my favorite hobby for pain relief and challenges. It is so rewarding and the only hobby I had that paid for itself. Thank you for the recognition and kind words. Take care.
Well that’s an awesome bit of kit! I’m always up for a new little gadget, I’ve tweaked mine along with the top tension but I’ll do it again when I have one 😁
Very kind of you to comment. Thank you. 🙏
Love your tutorial! I have sent my 401Slant-O-Matic in for the bobbin to be maintenanced too many times. Your help has now fixed my problems! ( needle hitting bobbin) Thank you very much!!!
I'm glad you found the video and thank you for letting me know it was helpful stop by again when you have time
I love it that you don't edit it out when you are trying to get things right: makes me feel I can get things right when things are going wrong for me.
I feel justified by your remark. Thank you very much.🙏 From the beginning of my channel I've tried to be realistic and show people what can go wrong and that you can absolutely work on these machines. I appreciate your kind remark and thanks for watching my channel.
I want to thank you and say that I have enjoyed watching you work on the sewing machine which it helped me a lot I've been looking forward to learning how to do the things that you do to your sewing machines hope I get to know more about sewing machines like you have thank you
A really nice comment, Felix, and thank you. I hope you enjoy it as much as I have. I recently reorganized my Playlist Page to contain most of my 600 videos. The first playlists are by type of repair and then the following playlists are by model number.
th-cam.com/channels/USPDsHaFtRoz1VA2U1xJ4w.htmlplaylists I appreciate you watching my channel. Good luck.
I inherited my mother's 401A and have been using it for many years. It was driving me nuts trying to adjust the tension. Lots of looping on the bottom stitch and breaking thread. This video solved the problem. I took the spring off the bobbin case and sure enough there was a wad of smutz under the adjustment screw ( I could not get any tension on the bobbin thread). Also gave the groove a good cleaning. Now it's working great, perfect stitches and no more rattling. Thanks tons!
I glad you found the video, Doug. Thanks for fixing that incredible family machine. Nice of you to take time and comment. Stop by when you can. Model 401A videos: th-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKLiDl9yFTP6mJgQmz5lj4NO.html
Speed up your old motor: th-cam.com/video/pzq4tv8qn94/w-d-xo.html Is your old foot pedal a little hesitant? th-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKL6ePPxLpmnWSzTyxPKTb71.html Take care and happy sewing.
@@andytubesewing1953 I also have a model 15-91 made in St. John Canada that is in beautiful condition. Saved it from going to the dump about 40 years ago. Also have a Red Eye treadle that still works great.
Oh, a great collection of wonderful models! Starting to feel a little jealous, buddy. Hehe
Another sewing machine saver lesson ❤ Thank you!
My pleasure. Thanks for your interest
You wonderful man. Thank you so much!
You know it's my pleasure. Thanks for your comment.
Thank you, Andy, for another helpful video. After cleaning and zeroing out the tension assembly on my new 401, I was still having bad stitches. The bobbin thread was visible on top even with the tension set to 0 & turning it up made things worse. I took to the bobbin case for cleaning and adjustment.... and while making a guess at what 1oz of pull was like, I decided to tie on a 1oz fishing weight and dangle it over the edge of the table as i adjusted the tension spring screw to the point where the bobbin would release slack with a slight touch or jiggle. maybe not an accurate method, but my stitches are now looking like they should and Im at 3 on the tension dial. ....adding a pocket postal scale to my shopping cart for future adjustments.
Nicely done, Mr. Lee. Your method may be one of the most accurate. The two retired Singer repairmen I know said they used lead weights. I'm happy you corrected your machne and thanks for keeping it sewing.
Thank you so much for the excellent explanation of how to adjust the bobbin case.
You are welcome, Karla. Thanks for the nice comment and happy sewing.
Thanks Andy, this was very helpful.
I'm glad you found the video. Thank you for the nice comment. I appreciate you watching my channel
Got my meter yesterday and have set a few bobbin cases, you’re right, it can be a little tricky. I’ve since learned never to touch that adjustment screw again 😂
It's what the Singer guys told me was a EDI repair, as in "Easy Does It." Very tricky.
@@andytubesewing1953 Andy, I got a new bobbin case for my 413 (plastic) yesterday and unfortunately it wasn’t set at the 1 oz mark. I thought new bobbin cases were pre set. Have you ever had to reset a new bobbin case…just so I’ll know for the future. Thanks.
@@rhondamercado7527 Those same SInger repairmen told me that into the '70s Singer shipped the machines to the SInger Stores. At those stores, the repair men/women would clean them up removing any protective grease/oil, and "fine tune" the machine. This often included installing or adjusting the Tension Assemblies, and the spool pins, and testing the timing and bobbin case tension. The timing & BC tension was tested and set by humans back then. The plastic BC you bought is mass-produced overseas somewhere and the tension is "approximate" as far as I can tell. The ones I bought were about a 50/50 chance of being OK. Some models have a recommended BC tension higher than 1 oz, too. I always just test sewed and went from there if I felt they needed adjusting. I do remember an occasional BC that was missing the tension screw, or even the tension spring, haha.
Thank you for another tutorial! The tiny "Simanco" screwdriver you use sells for $10 to $25! Isn't that crazy? I was fortunate to get one with a machine I bought. (I also got a bunch of specialty feet!)
thanks for watching. I see the prices for vintage machines and attachments, etc. keeps going up. I actually received an email blaming me for making them so attractive that "too many" people are buying and fixing them. I admitted it was the goal of my channel to encourage people to save the machines, so guess I'm guilty. It's always a bonus when buying a machine to find the "stuff", like tools and feet and cams that sellers include. Congrats! Nice of you to comment.
Thank you very much, this is what i have been looking for so long!
You are welcome and glad you found it. Thanks for the comment.
What screwdrivers do you recommend for working on vintage machines? I’m finding some tight spots too small for regular drivers. I have a one with changeable tips (hollow ground), but it’s still too big/long. Haven’t had an issue loosening screws, it has enough torque, but sometimes I need a shorter handle. I’m “going to school” learning how to restore & refurbish these old machines using your videos! Thanks so much for helping us save these machines for the next generation!
Hi, Liz. Thanks for your question, and for watching my channel. I mostly use two sets, one I've had for a while and one newer addition. The first is this one: chapmanmfg.com/collections/slotted-flathead-sets/products/9600-starter-slotted-bit-set
I use the little spinner in tight places and also the mini-ratchet when more power is needed.
The latest one I bought is here: www.wheelertools.com/gunsmithing-tools/wrenches-and-screwdrivers/43-piece-professional-gunsmithing-screwdriver-set/954621.html
A viewer recommended it and I like it. The handle is more comfortable and it has plenty of bits, all magnetized. I found I can exchange many of the bits to handles in both sets also.
Since you mention a need for shorter handles please take a look at these "Stubby" drivers from Chapman. There only 2.5" long and cost about $1.00 each. I have not tried them, but have had people tell me they like them as they have the same Chapman bits, but just a 2" handle. chapmanmfg.com/collections/stubby-screwdrivers-mini-screwdrivers
If you have an interest, here are links to the two videos I made about the screwdriver sets above.
The Chapman set video: th-cam.com/video/KnrvDZeaYj4/w-d-xo.html
The Wheeler set video: th-cam.com/video/7_DHIC6eskc/w-d-xo.html
You may be able to find these sets on Amazon or eBay too, IDK.
Best of luck and don't be a stranger to Andy Tube now that you found it, OK?
Thanks
🙏
I just recently did battle with those two screws, only to learn that the tension screw was stripped. Ordered a whole bobbin case assembly in hopes that the tension parts are good. It was only five bucks. It's for a 1917 red eye treadle.
I thought the $5 was a typo until I saw the 1917 red eye info. You can buy new tension screws but they cost (with shipping) more than $5. I hope it works out for you. Good luck, and thanks for watching my channel.
I needed this video a lot. My 401A is not cooperating with upholstery thread on the bobbin. It shows that it is too tight in the stitch. I loosened it so much that screw fell out. When I took apart to retighten, I broke that tiny piece off at the end of the spring. Can I buy one of your extras you said you had?
Sorry to hear that, Marie. I'm not yet selling parts. Two of the Three sellers of replacement bobbin tension springs do not sell them any longer. The spring is part # 172202. Here is one seller I know of www.singeronline.com/sibocatesp17.html I see the price is $10 now. You can also buy used vintage bobbin cases from eBay. Her is one as an example:
www.ebay.com/itm/GENUINE-SINGER-401-403-404-500-503-SEWING-BOBBIN-CASE-HOLDER-SIMANCO-172082/153604181115?hash=item23c385cc7b:g:4k8AAOSwmAJdHBDc:sc:USPSFirstClass!85282!US!-1
It is $19 but you get the whole bobbin case including the spring and screws. They even include the bobbin case positioning spring. Personally, I would buy that one.
You can also find sellers in China selling bobbin cases cheaply if you do not mind a longer shipping time: www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=singer+model+401+bobbin+case&_sacat=0&LH_TitleDesc=0&_osacat=0&_odkw=singer+bobbin+case+172083
Just need a little clarification on the krud kutter. Your clip shows a spray bottle of krud kutter, are you deluting that into another bottle or using it straight from the store bought spray bottle? Also can you use it on plastic, if so at what delution?
Tomorrow I'm taking the tension assembly off my 328k, first time 😃 Thank you! I wouldn't have tried without your videos.
So the dilution percentage depends on the surface I'm cleaning. I usually buy KK in the gallon size. As stated in this video, for cleaning the bobbin case I use about a 15% solution. I use stronger solutions on metal parts that are dirtier with oil/grease all the way up to 100% KK on slant-O-Matic steel gears that are impacted with dark grease. I'm not sure what solution % is in the spray bottle. I only bought one of those, then went to the gallon. The caution with using KK is for painted surfaces as it will dull paint. On the body of a machine, I only use 10 to 15% solution and wash it off immediately. I stopped using KK on the painted dials of tension units b/c of fading. If you're just going to clean the tension unit you don't even need KK but can just use liquid dish soap in warm water, like Dawn. It works well on tension parts and will not hurt the dials. You can also use rubbing alcohol to clean the tension unit. Tension assemblies usually are not greasy or oily and are easy to clean. I just use KK b/c I've got it on hand. I do use it to clean plastic parts and it works well. a 10 to 20% solution depending on how greasy it is. Over the years I have learned I do not need as strong a solution as I thought. I've had people tell me they bought a 4oz bottle of it www.homedepot.com/p/Krud-Kutter-4-oz-Original-Concentrated-Cleaner-Degreaser-291528/203086056 and mixed it into about a gallon of water and cleaned their machine with it and different sized brushes then washed it with the hose/shower. I would not use it on a Black painted Singer body. I've been told it can damage the older style black finish. You can see a Dilution Chart for KK here: www.rustoleum.com/-/media/DigitalEncyclopedia/Documents/RustoleumUSA/Product-Documents/Charts/Original_KK_Dilution_Reference_Chart.ashx and a Directions for Use chart, with dilutions, here: www.rustoleum.com/-/media/DigitalEncyclopedia/Documents/RustoleumUSA/instruction-sheets/krud-kutter/original-krud-kutter-Krud-Kutter-Original-How.ashx God Luck, Catherine, and thanks for watching my channel.
@@andytubesewing1953 Thank you for all the details. I'm just finishing your 401 tension video now. I took apart my 328k and found the tension indicator is broken in the middle. I haven't been able to find a replacement on line....I might see if I can fix it with epoxy. I have a 348 that was giving me trouble and opened up the tension and the stop washer was behind the beehive spring. I bet you've seen your share of crazy stuff on old machines.
Thanks again for all the wonderful videos.
@@BurgardPottery The only aftermarket indicator dial I know of is www.sewingpartsonline.com/tension-singer-422403-455.aspx It is for the 600 models and no idea if it would work for you b/c they are all a little different. The most successful fix I've heard of from a handful of people is pounding a small paperclip wire flat and cutting a piece to fix and gluing in place. You can find used 328K tension units on eBay, but who knows the condition of that bar? Yes, some crazy stuff for sure. A model 401A that was lubed with olive oil. An eBay machine I ordered from Texas that arrived in Arizona with live spiders inside. A machine advertised as "tested and sews well" arrived without a motor installed. A customer brought a machine for repair who said it "just stopped making stitches" only to find there was no hook installed. Just a few.
Do you have a video which illustrates how to remove the bobbin case from the machine? I know there is some kind of clip there but not sure how to get to it. Thanks!
I do! Start at about 26:33 of this video: th-cam.com/video/oCdolwD4F8Q/w-d-xo.html
Here are all the videos for this model: th-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKKHFzTFVJrwVQT6hMfXxFHt.html
Thanks for watching my channel. Good Luck, Shana
Hi Andy!!! Do you use the Krud Cutter straight out of bottle or do you mix with water? Thanks! Always enjoy your videos
Greetings, Frank. Usually mixed with water. General body cleaning about 15%. Parts like a bobbin case or needle bar you can soak in 25% KK. the more greasy and dried gunk, the higher %. I will use up to100% on steel gears of a 401A for example, b/c the gunk gets ground into the teeth. It also depends if you're in a hurry. Then the stronger % the quicker you can clean.
Although I rarely have had to adjust the bobbin tension in all the machines I have refurbished and kept, your video was great! I would like to know how you would go about sharpening the thread cutter on the pressure foot bar as my Singer 328K is extremely dull. I also see you have a little magnetic gadget in this video I would be interested in buying for myself if you would kindly share where to purchase. Thank you Andy!
Thank you
Rita: if you are referring to the black-ish MAGnetizer / DEMAGnetizer gadget...
use Google to search for: HUSKY Precision Magnetizer deMagnetizer
and my search found it for about $4 at HomeDepot...
MANY others are avail for $4-5 and more! ... good luck.
Thank you both for replying. I’ll give the emory board a go. I’m looking forward to your next video;)