Yosemite Rock Climbing - Nose In A Day - El Capitan - 8 Hour NIAD
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 1 ก.ค. 2021
- On a balmy day mid June 2021, Jake and I set off for a run up the Captain. We were shocked to discover we were the only people on the Nose and didn’t see or hear another soul anywhere on El Capitan until the final pitch. Complete solitude accompanied by a few runouts and exciting short fixing. Final time of 8:15.
Big Walls, Rock Climbing, Short Fixing, Trad climbing, Speed Climbing, Crack climbing, Adventure.
For Business Inquiries Email: Hysell.30@gmail.com
Instagram: @GravityLabOfficial
the horrible thing is 99% of people will never understand how hard this is
Very True Finn! But those 1% who do really get it!
@@TheGravityLab As an avid climber I think I could do the Nose in 8 hours. If I'd stop for lots of breaks and watched the entire first Godfather in Camp IV maybe.
is the route itself hard, or is it just difficult to do it that fast?
@@wyattmadson both, it takes most people days to do it
@ramdas363 It's not a race man. Just enjoy the ride.
Absolutely amazing! Nose in a day (let alone 8 hours) is so f'ing incredible. We are not worthy.
Also, may God Bless pin scars and Friends and all of those that passed here before us here.
Superhuman. Standing on the shoulders of giants.
Two strong, experienced climbers climbing El Cap. Ho hype, just doing what they love and doing it well.
GREAT video. Thank you!
ayy Cheers buddy!
Bro... This is some legit climbing. You did the Nose in 8 hours!? Mad respect.
thanks man! such a great line you should check out when you get all healed up.
The next will place a clip, how he reaches 5 metres in shot put! Maybe a personal success, but sooooo boring for others.
@@francovaderno3532 tf are you on about?
@@Dexter_Morgan. It's interesting, what sport someone is doing in his free time? Climbing the nose today in a day is no more than an average time.
If someone climbs the nose free in 8 hours - that would be respectable and interesting. Or to show, that you are able to make a good movie of the nose. (It would be more than difficult in one day.) Example: You feel a loooong sequence filmed with a helmet-camera of an easy rubbish hand-jam interesting?
It's not more than climbers tourism. Good, if someone enjoys his sport. But to publish is showing off.
@@francovaderno3532 ohh ok I get what you're saying now but I'd say this is less about showing off and more about sharing the experience with people like myself who don't have the pleasure of experiencing it for themselves
Thank you for posting! As someone that aspires to doing The Nose one day, it's always great to see vids like this.
it hurts to see how effortless y'all make this look, I fight for my life on 5.6!
I don't even climb and it hurts to look at this.
Haha Owen this is the best comment on this video yet! We all fight for our life on some climbs!
That was incredible to watch! The amount of knowledge & trust to do this is astounding. What an awesome accomplishment for you guy’s & I greatly appreciate the intense video. This is 100% something i could never do but the respect i have for you & climbers is the highest i can give. 👏🙌👍😉 saved to my favorite videos !
So much respect! I climbed Pine Line the first time out in Yosemite, and it was a challenge. (I've been climbing a year) Maybe I'll get another pitch next time. You guys are fit! Loved to watch this! Thank you for sharing!
pine line is the first step! Keep crushing it!
I'll never stopped being amazed that this is what some people choose to do for fun. :)
Cheers to that!
You guys are super human. So much energy, really cool. Big respect.
Cheers Agung!
Great video! Thanks for posting it. Watched it twice.
These guys are amazing
Thats a great video! I did the Nose in about 1978 (I'm 70 now), way before Friends were invented... We took 3 days. Its proper exposed, especially the Stove Leg cracks. I still get out climbing but I am so crap compared to what I used to be, but thats life! .
WOW. That was amazing. My hands sweated the entire video.
Thanks keven! Such a great climb
Oo God, truly impressive! Be careful!!
Nicely done. Very smoothe, little wasted effort.
Cheers! Glad it looks smooth cause it definitely felt hard at times
That section with the dual #3s was so fun to watch!
thanks for your adventure that was a wild climb stay safe
Awsome climbing, love your style you make it look so much fun and safe, no unnecessary risks that freak me out lol, I hope I'll get back into it, should be able to soon.
I'm totally flashed how easy this climb look like but deep inside me, I know how difficult 'the nose' is - it's not without any reason, the most difficult big wall worldwide. You have my full and deep respect 👍
Ayy thanks Matthias! If you put your mind to it, you can do it!
Not sure if it's the most difficult big wall in the world but NIAD is definitely bad ass
First pich, free solo pitch 😂
Ye only one cam
You Guys did a great job
I admire these climbers skill and guts. Technical rock climbing like this is an endeavor that I'm definitely not cut-out to do. I'd be worrying about those slabs of granite breaking lose just as I reached into the crevice to secure a hand-hold. Or coming upon a swarm of ticked-off bee's because I stuck my hand in their hive (I heard that happened to a climber many years back on El Capitan...it did not good end well as I recall) ...or having a earthquake happen right when I'm in a precarious position. In 1977 while backpacking I very narrowly missed being buried alive in a massive, and I do mean massive rock slide / avalanche way up Lone Pine Creek at about 10,500 ft in its canyon below Mount Whitney. It was the middle of the night and I was sleeping. I thought for sure that was going to be the end for me. For real. Nobody would have ever know what had happened to me. That was one life defying thrill enough for me.
Revo and Metolius Gatekeeper is a good match! Wow congrats on the ascent! I have to train to make it in 24h. I might have what it takes currently... Excited!!!
Thanks Yann! You totally got it! Hit me up if you have any questions or want to link up in the Valley!
You guys are crazy for doing this cant wait till it cools down you can find on some cliff space
What a stunning climb
This dude is a beast hands down
The Huber brothers first speed attempt on the Nose was 7hrs and some change...You guys are World Class 😉
Awesome job man! I love rock climbing and El Capitan is definitely up there in things I want to climb. I want to do the nose and Freerider
Yes you totally should! Just keep getting on the rock and you will make it happen
Very impressed! nice video! You guys are nuts:)
Thank you sir! Stay tuned for more outrageous climbs in the near future
smooth work!
Dude that was awesome. I have a lot of things to learn before being able to climb the Nose, but maybe in a few years :D
Thanks! Just keep climbing and you will make it up no doubt. Probably much faster than me
wow! sick runouts!! anchor to anchor?! respekt!
Awesomeness my brother!
Cheers Scott!
You made this look so easy! Some knarly climbing! I love watching POV big wall climbing. Hope to made it up someday. My buddy and I are heading to Nor Cal for a climbing trip in 2 weeks and were hoping to go to Yosemite, but it's all booked up. Any advice for good areas near by?
Just keep climbing and you’ll make it there! Try going in before they open the office/after they close the office each day. You won’t need a reservation then.
Shuteye ridge is dope, especially if you have a capable vehicle. Tahoe area is really stacked as well- Moreso for short, single pitch climbs
So fast…well done!
It takes a really strong mind to scale that thing, how Alex did it free solo , is just insane. I did a skydive once from 10000 feet and that was bad enough. Incredible to watch though, thanks guys !!!
Good job!
10:28 omfg look at that runout 😰texas flake looks super scary as well, no gear and if you fall you will definitely hit the shelf below. you got some serious balls man
Very nice aid climbing !
Awesome! Had no idea how much hand jamming is on that wall. You also didn’t seem to place a whole lot of gear. Props to you both!
yeah did they place any gear??
@@mateonoble4623 He cuts out a lot of gear placements and focuses on the climbing movement more.
you are correct.
Yes it is jamtastic! Didn't place a ton of gear but cut a lot of them out to keep it rollin
he placed a ton of gear around 14:10 =D
Amazing
This is so rad dude. Makes me wonder how much time you've put in on the wall. Hope to run into you at the crag some day
Cheers! You talking climbing rocks in general or on big walls? Yeah give me a holler sometime, what areas do you climb?
Alex is my hero!
OR should be VERY pleased by the product placement. Strong work regardless.
the trust you have in your climbing partner is beautiful...
Bobby I saw you using the Revo, does Jake use the Revo too?
Yessir trust is absolutely necessary! Yes we both use the revo for the majority of this climb. It is super advantageous down low with mostly free climbing
Hey can you guys do a beta breakdown for lead rope soloing with the revo?
Thanks so much for making the best climbing content on TH-cam. You’re really inspiring 😊
4:01 that Sandlot 'a little more..' haha
Very nice! Even though this was summertime and the wall likely to get very hot, it's still amazing that you could be this lonesome!
The style you used here seems similar to what we employed on a trip up the NW Face of Half Dome way back in July 1981. We took just a little over 6 hours (supposedly the second-fastest time back then), mostly alternating leads but simul-climbing on the easier stretches. We did most of it "French Free", i.e. free climbing 99% but using the bolt ladders in a couple of spots and pulling on some gear on the crux pitches.
Speed was of the essence since this was a very warm summer, we really had to get up before the sun would hit the wall properly! Walking across Thank God Ledge just as the sun came around the corner felt great.
so you are both climbin at the same time ? what is the use of the revos ? nice job !
Subscribed!
Interesting that you swung into the low anchor above pitch 5 and had your partner simul-swing: this is a technique in the Nose Speed Record video but only works when both climbers are going to simul climb the next Stovelegs section.....faster for your type of NIAD would be to have swung into the low anchor as you did, clip in, and have your partner jug the 30' to the pitch 5 anchor. Then you lead up to the base of the Stovelegs (the pitch 6 anchor) essentially on toprope, back cleaning as you go, and your partner follows with a few easy lower-outs and jugging up - instead of the scenario you found yourself where you're pulling the rope and starting to lead mid-way through the 6th pitch. Meeting after the 6th pitch would have required no more gear (because you back-clean and are toprope) and you would have both kept climbing up.....small apples and oranges for sure, great job on your ascent!
Thanks for the beta dude. So would I clip any gear on the way? possibly that one bolt with tat about 35 feet above the lower anchor? Then he has two medium sized lower outs?
Great climbing! Can you explain how your were using the Revo on your short fixing? and why you chose it over grigri/silent partner/rope loops?
Yes. I fix the anchor then belay myself on the revo since it is the only one which naturally feeds very easily. The downside is that it takes quite a bit of momentum to force it to seize up. It is a middle ground between the gri gri and pdl.
Now THAT's Stamina!!!
You went low for the 'free climbing' variation of pitch 6 but still grabbed the bolt - most folks stay in the twin-cracks to the small roof up and left of you in the video and then just penji into the ten feet of fingers lie-backing to the belay - easier because you stay on 5.8 terrain, mostly on toprope, until you do a tension and short penji to the fingers section to the pitch 6 belay.
Glad you said it.
The stove legs look so freaking good!! What do you use as a self belay?
Man those are beautiful cracks.
What's the highest you had to climb above a placement here?
Does any route exist climbing exactly in the middle of those overhanging roofs at 25:03? Whats the name of that zone?
isn't stoveleg crack like 120' to the bolt? it looks like you placed one piece maybe 1/3 of the way up that pitch... bomber hands but did you carry a lighter rack to compensate for your massive balls?
HAHA! Yeah I typically only place one piece on that pitch. It is #2s and I have two of those attached to my arms!
Have you taken a whip on the Devi while rope soling like that? Or how did you gain confidence or clarity with using that device?
So many of those flakes look like they are ready to pop off. Nothing like a 30 ton flake popping off when you wedge your hand. Now that would be a video. lol
All jokes aside, nice job guys, very impressive.
damn I aspire to do this one day! Thanks for the motivation!
get after it!
The run-outs are insane. 😂
You guys are crazy as hell. Who in their right mind??
Great climbing! Not a Juniper.
I think that when climbing meets the ride it may occur a tragedy.
Take care of you.☺
How long before the Texas Flake pops off? Seems like the moment (force) and fatigue on the flake due to climbers shimmying up it would eventually cause it to break off.
Seriously. But my money would be on boot flake first. thing seems like it is barely hanging on.
_good !!!_
would you be willing to share your full equipment list that yall used for this NIAD lap (cams, draws, belay devices, etc)? Would be valuable to fully understand the context of the video
I'm 41 years old and this video just made me afraid of heights.
you could legit make videos of setting up anchors on multi pitch routes..... so satisfying to watch, dudes nice w it!!
or maye im jjust really stoned
yes for sure. Will do.
Deus nos dê fendas !!!
So coooooooooooooooooooooooool
can you do a vid explaining short fixing?
where is your camera mounted on the helmet? front? top? curious thanks.
how many times did you climb it prior to this attempt ?
How does one find (as in: “see”) the route while climbing? Looks like very few bolts and a lot of zig-zagging.
The main way for any climb is studying the topo beforehand and looking at it from a distance to note major marks. However, once you get up on the nose, it is quite clear where you go outside of one spot on the gray bands pitches where you can go either high or low.
Darn gifted, Texas flake comes off there's going to be pandemonium
Just curious: why do you use your material to climb up around14:10?
No film of the Roof?
Still, an amazing feat.
how is the guy with the camera secured? what if he falls, how far would he fall and what stops him from falling?
Are the runouts because you're trying to finishing the route in time?
Nice dude, I dream about climbing the Nose one day when I am older!
You can do it! Just keep climbing and trying to learn more each time you go to the crag.
@@TheGravityLab thank you I will!
Non-climber asking: So one guy climbs and the other guy climbs the rope behind to pull up all the anchors ?
why did you use ascenders? Couldn't you just belay from the anchor point up higher?
Interesting , have done some climbing and some techniques used would be frowned upon in British circles I think. Using gear and the rope too pull on have never seen , possibly the norm in States and Europe on Big Wall stuff. Very serious regardless though , good video
How hard can you free on gear? Curious to know what level of climbing is required for 5.10 yosemite to feel casual enough to short fix on.
Free climbing 12- on gear in the valley mostly flashing. I have probably climbed over 300 pitches of 5.10 in the valley, so the granite is very familiar and perfect.
Robert why would you want to feel casual on a NIAD run? I say we go for the 30 hr no sleep NIAD horror show 🤜🤛
@@V33Zero this is our fate!
This past weekend I was at Yosemite and went to El Cap. After watch free solo and your video here I have so much respect for you guys and what you do! I always wanted to get into climbing but I feel Im to tall (6 foot 6 inches) its always pushed me away from starting. Anyways keep up the great videos you actually give a true raw view in your videos.
thanks a lot man. Now is the best day to start. Hit up a gym near you and chat up some people. Climbers are almost always more than happy to spray about their favorite past time. BTW dean potter was 6'5", so you are in good company.
@@TheGravityLab I really appreciate the response I actually just met a climber who works at a local indoor rock climbing gym I just need to stop making excuses for myself and go. Like you said the best time to start is now. Would you recommend me getting brand new equipment or just 2nd hand to start.
@@molon___labe to start gym climbing, you can get everything you need for around $250 brand new. Shoe fit is very subjective so dont just settle on the first pair you find. best to try stuff on in the gym's gear store or REI etc. Wouldnt bother buying all the gear you see in this video until you have some time under your belt and you know you're going to climb outdoors/trad.
@@TheGravityLab I'm 3'5", so there's no way i'd be able to karate kick the Boulder. ;)
Yes totally agree with Cameron. Shoes are very subjective & should feel decently tight at first.
Did you end up getting to the gym?
This is f’ing crazy, hard time even believing people do this lol how do those anchor points even get attached in the first place and how long is that rope is someone holding on to deadend of the rope on the ground ?
Is there a trail to walk down afterwards?
Looks great fun, but quick question, why are you using ropes?
because they're not suicidal
Wait, were you lead rope soloing with Revo while your partner is jumaring up at the same time? Is that how you were able to climb so fast?
How long was that first run out?
i cant understand why bolt the texas flake instead of the wall, i wish someone would change that
Is that one of the famous Yosemite swifts that I hear at 8:07 ?????
una mungitura unica
Some Moisterizing Hand Wipes Help Out along with Mountain Dew 🤓
I wasn’t there and yet I was still crapping myself
There are (at least) 2 types of whistles: one that is 'nervous' & one that is not. At 6:20, I heard one that is not. I, however, would have the 3rd type of whistle: the one your scream so loud it's sounds like a dog whistle.
Jam for breakfast , Jam for lunch, jam for dinner....its a well balanced diet.
You get it!