Man I love the old 1890 type ships in this game. They are all so derpy. I wish there was a naval game that covered the period in-between the age of sail and that of the early battleships.
In my experience, shell damage DOES matter. Just remember much like most other numbers in this game, it's a base value and will be affected by other modifiers in an actual battle. The wild numbers you see are because of resistance stats and hit locations. Tanky BB hulls will take little damage, while transports or TBs with negative resistances will take much larger hits. Similarly, partial pens will do little while critical hits such as citadels or ammo detonations will do massive damage. Since all of those are multipliers, _most of the time_ shell damage will still matter. I.E if a shell that deals 1000 base damage crits for 10k, one that deals 2000 base damage will crit for 20k, while one that deals 20 base will crit for just 2k. Like most mechanics in UAD, it's all a jumble of many many factors multiplied in obscure ways, so in the end you go with whatever feels better from experience
I love these guides. As someone fairly new to the game, you make it very easy to understand not only what each part does, but what sort of thought process you should have when building a ship. These have helped me immensely. Thank you Can't wait for the destroyer/TB one. I'm really having trouble making them cost effective in campain
i tend to build the best possible destroyers, rather than a lot. it has 2 advantages: they can 1v1 enemy dds, and they are easier to manage, since there is few of them
I find that Standard and Base fuse tend to be the best initial set up as they have the lowest ricochet chance and actually do damage when they hit. I’ll then refit in campaign if I find that my ships are lacking pen/dam.
Some additions to the 1940 part of the video, not in any particular order (hopefully written in a noob friendly way): 1)You can in fact fit a 4 turret set up on this hull, even 10 inch triple guns (which I did, haven't tried bigger ones) and balance it out with almost the same secondary battery as in the vid. Just make sure it's the largest variant of the hull (it gets visually larger in jumps the more you increase the displacement). 2)Beam and Draught are adjustable during refits while displacement isn't, and can shorten or lengthen construction times when reduced or increased. 3)I haven't played much on the latest versions but if the AI still torpedo spams, I generally go with Electrical steering 2 and an unbalanced rudder with a decent sonar or hydro 3. I got good at evading AI torps with my ships so I go for the best turn circle and less of a torpedo belt. Torpedo belt is usually level 2 or 3 depending on the torps, rarely 4. Other than that advice is just to learn the pattern of movement when the AI launches torps: they will close range and turn broadside, launch a spread (sometimes they turn too fast and don't launch) then they will attempt to increase range and repeat. 4)All or Nothing is generally lighter if you go for a lot of belt armor. If you don't change anything and just max out the 3rd layer of citadel armor it will still be lighter. 5) There is a flash fire chance stat on the stat list, towards the end of ship details. Haven't seen a ship with a value of below 7.5% explode. 6) Long range seems to be around 12.5km (at least for older patches (1.08.9)). 7) IMO running RDF/Radio AND Radar is useless. The accuracy bonus from comms is 5-15% and late game is essentially insignificant, and you will probably be out of range regardless (depends on play style of course). Plus you'll have the techs from research to help with it. RDF is useful for directing you to the enemy, but radar does the same and offers much more in terms of recon, spotting and accuracy buffs. 8) Torpedoes... I used to like them, not anymore. Mid to late game I find them detrimental as the AI usually evades them. Unless they are spammed, but then you are somewhat of a floating bomb as they tend to explode. 9) HE shells: Incendiary and High Capacity don't do partial pen damage, anything above does. Why is it important? If you don't run a firestarter build and want the secondary guns to be able to hit heavily armored targets (somewhat) hard while staying effective against lighter ones, this is probablt the choice, high end AP might also work, but it will somewhat limit your main guns. Nose fuse usually works well for destroying lighter armored targets with your main guns while offering good damage and with later non fire oriented fillers can even burn ships down or make then surrender (provided you have a good amount of secondary guns of course (i.e 10 per side). 10) The armor bug works with citadel layers as well. Their maximum thickness is linked to the current thickness of the deck/belt armor. i.e: increase it to 15 inch belt and set the citadel to 7.5 inches, reduce the belt to 10 inch and you still have a 7.5 inch citadel. Didn't know it affected gun turrets as well. 11) As I tend to use a design that's close to the CA in the video, I feel somewhat "qualified" to talk about the armoring in this case(It's my opinion and experience, yours may differ): 6 inches of deck is overkill, 3.5 main and 3 or 2.5 aft and bow is what I use, never saw a full deck pen. 10 inches belt, 6 inch bow and aft belt. With krupp 4 you are effectively impervious to DD caliber guns and most secondaries (aside from capital ships). I go with the most citadel belt armor and round/good looking numbers on the deck (i.e. 1.5, 1, 0.7). I almost always tend to close in to 10km or less, so deck armor is not really important for me. I also use the Turtleback scheme and against lighter guns it holds extremely well. Had 127 old French ships (they built a couple dreadnoughts a year or 2 before) go against 3 of my CAs (early 30s or late 20s, as I almost speedrun CA hull tech. 19000t, 4x3 10 inch Mk3 turrets with +20% barrel length, RDF, hydro 3. Price for one ship was less than 177M$). Almost at the very beginning the battle one CA took 2 15 or 14 inch shells to the engines and then a torp. 2 engines were flooded for the rest of the battle, later took 2 more torps that I didn't notice. still was at 50-70 floatablity. I was on the defensive for most of the battle, screening for her with the other two CAs. End result was 5 out of 6 enemy battleships (mk2 or 3 14 and 15 inch guns) survived with less than 10 other ships. My CAs ran out of main gun ammo (main reason why the BBs lived), lost almost all of their secondary guns (4x double 4 inch and 4x double 3 inch guns per side, unarmored) and had around 50-60% hull integrity remaining. If you think I'm wrong in any of the points above you are welcome to correct me.
Addition to point 6 (long range accuracy). You can see the bonus of long range accuracy tech in the top of the accuracy listing. Pre-1900 in my campaign so I get (a lousy) 0.1-0.3% long-range bonus when I hover my mouse over the sea from 1km out to 10km-ish.
As a note regarding draft- that measurement is the distance between the keel of the ship and the waterline. It doesn’t have much to do with how much of the ship is seen above water or the distance between the waterline and the main deck.
Make a mortar ship with the german armored cruiser one in 1880 using the 11 or 12 inch guns and make the barrels 20% shorter but increase the diameter by .9
I find the price tag of heavy/armored cruisers keeps them from being the majority of my fleet. They make up about 1/4 of my cruiser force, with torpedo boats, destroyers, and submarines being a good half of my navy.
For long range vs base accuracy. TLDR : long range beats base accuracy only at ~25km and higher. Which make it utterly useless unless you are building a dedicated sniping boat late game. Longer version : I tried in my campaign since I was watching while playing. With Tier 3 tech, long range catch up with base accuracy at 7500-10000 range (IE accuracy is equal whether you use coincidence or stereo). It stay equals up until 20-25k where long range starts to be better. Which mean it's entirely useless until late game (since you can't hit at 25+km, even with long range accuracy I have 0.something% in 1918). And also useless with smaller calibre that simply can't fire that far (DD, CL). Honestly, long range accuracy is a noob trap. Not only it's for 25+km but the increase of accuracy is not even that big. The loss below 10km compared to base accuracy is much bigger. For whatever reason it doesn't factor the fact that long range for a DD is not the same than for a BB, or how long range in 1900 is not the same than in 1945.
25 Kilomiters huh? Good lord there's not even that many guns that can fire that far (BB guns come to mind), let alone hit something at that distance. But yeah that is Dedicated SNIPER ship: 15 to 20 inch guns with MAX LENGTH, as little smoke interference as possible, Radar if thats a thing and best Range finder you can find. Although I think Stealth could experiment with it in his current campaign, started in 1910 i think and its now 1924.
Hey stealth I love your videos, mainly Ultimate Admiral Dreadnoughts, I play it any time I can. You helped me with tutorials with this game, I just want to say, thank you, hopefully you see this.
Heavy Cruisers, the Workhorses of your fleet and technically the Smallest capital ship you can have, depending on who you ask. As a general navy term Heavy Cruisers have 8inch guns (203 milimeters for those in the Metric system), anything smaller then that is usually a "Light cruiser" ,(which usually have 6 inch guns or 152mm) but who cares right? Cruisers more then any ship type are the ones that change the most over the course of Navel History, going from effectively "budget" battleships to what we picture as a "heavy" cruiser and like wise from "large" DDs to "Light" cruisers.
Heavy cruisers are usually the main ships in my fleets, i find them to be the most bang for your buck. i tend to build 2 classes, 1 "conventional" one but with crazy guns to deal with bbs, and the other utter hilarious one the dd hunter,, basically as many guns as possible with incemdiary he, amd since these guns weigh nothing a crapton of arnor, so they can shield for the bb busters
Heavy cruisers built like small dreadnaughts can defenitely sink more modern battleships no problem, have two of them pummeling the BB with HE... So many guns and shells into the air are gonna do the job if they hit all the time.
Ships range is not about ability to travel far away. You will be able to travel, but it will be slow travel and very slow in the fight (without fuel). Ships range it is mostly about generation of missions. Abut rudders. Turning radius shown nothing. Yes, in case you want to draw circles unbalanced is looking better = circle is smaller, but unbalanced is slower in changing angle, so in case you need to turn 90 degrees left, than 90 degrees right, balanced will do it much much and MUCH faster. For combat use balanced is only selection because overall maneuverability is MUCH better. I mean "Course change time" numbers in ships stats table. Don't underestimate it. Yes, it is all from my point of view =).
Last time I checked, long range accuracy is >10km. At least that's what I got from comparing gun accuracy in the ship designer with the two rangefinders.
IDK about everyone else but I have had more problems with the Light Cruiser CL. For me I haven't played every nation but the rear turrets have trouble firing in most every case no matter the placements, a bug ? idk so far it's Italy and Japan
Just wanted to add that beam and draught have an effect on accuracy (depending on other factors such as weather,weight offset and such).Also had a question about propellant and how does it tie in with shell characteristics mean doesn't the propellant just launch the shell out of gun.Apart from velocities how can it impact effects such as fire chance and he dmg?
Barrel lenght adding to reload time (or reducing in case of making barrels shorter) is kinda stupid (balancing mechanic, still stupid). IRL Leopard 2 with L55 gun reloads as fast as one withL44 gun. Btw never had any troubles fitting 4x3 9inch turrets on german 20+kt CA hull (balancing that ship was interesting).
like the only reason I can imagine here is that the heavier barrel is longer to lower to the loading position, and raise back, although should not be a problem with man handlable rounds or advanced autoloaders like on Des Moines-class
Hey stealth I came across something that confused me in my game. Britain has collapsed and has become ungoverned territory. Is there a way more me to take over their territory or is this just a bug?
Ty Stealth for this video. Now i know where i went wrong in some of my designs that i have made in the game. But i have to ask do you have your own Discord chat channel? if so can you please pm me the details.
The game has a number of things wrong when it comes to technical terms (quite a few actually). One that really jumps out in this video is the use of the term "draught". The draught of a ship is a measurement of how far below the water line the bottom of the keel sits. The height of the deck from the water is termed "freeboard". While the game has bugs aplenty in the mechanics of it all, it's the incorrect use of terminology that really annoys me.
![“อ.เบียร์ คนตื่นธรรม” มาตามคำเรียกร้อง แหกศาสตร์ฮวงจุ้ย เตือนสติอย่างมงาย | แฉ 7 พ.ย. 67 [1/3]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/5fc4S3xBNfc/mqdefault.jpg)
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Man I love the old 1890 type ships in this game. They are all so derpy. I wish there was a naval game that covered the period in-between the age of sail and that of the early battleships.
We need some 1880s ship hulls added in.
@@merafirewing6591 why not have 1850-60 era ships too? Lol
my only problem with them is how long battles can last because accuracy is so atrocious
we need more french hotels
I'd like to see the river ships from America's Civil War era brown water navy
In my experience, shell damage DOES matter.
Just remember much like most other numbers in this game, it's a base value and will be affected by other modifiers in an actual battle.
The wild numbers you see are because of resistance stats and hit locations.
Tanky BB hulls will take little damage, while transports or TBs with negative resistances will take much larger hits.
Similarly, partial pens will do little while critical hits such as citadels or ammo detonations will do massive damage.
Since all of those are multipliers, _most of the time_ shell damage will still matter.
I.E if a shell that deals 1000 base damage crits for 10k, one that deals 2000 base damage will crit for 20k, while one that deals 20 base will crit for just 2k.
Like most mechanics in UAD, it's all a jumble of many many factors multiplied in obscure ways, so in the end you go with whatever feels better from experience
I love these guides. As someone fairly new to the game, you make it very easy to understand not only what each part does, but what sort of thought process you should have when building a ship. These have helped me immensely. Thank you
Can't wait for the destroyer/TB one. I'm really having trouble making them cost effective in campain
i tend to build the best possible destroyers, rather than a lot. it has 2 advantages: they can 1v1 enemy dds, and they are easier to manage, since there is few of them
I find that Standard and Base fuse tend to be the best initial set up as they have the lowest ricochet chance and actually do damage when they hit.
I’ll then refit in campaign if I find that my ships are lacking pen/dam.
Some additions to the 1940 part of the video, not in any particular order (hopefully written in a noob friendly way):
1)You can in fact fit a 4 turret set up on this hull, even 10 inch triple guns (which I did, haven't tried bigger ones) and balance it out with almost the same secondary battery as in the vid. Just make sure it's the largest variant of the hull (it gets visually larger in jumps the more you increase the displacement).
2)Beam and Draught are adjustable during refits while displacement isn't, and can shorten or lengthen construction times when reduced or increased.
3)I haven't played much on the latest versions but if the AI still torpedo spams, I generally go with Electrical steering 2 and an unbalanced rudder with a decent sonar or hydro 3.
I got good at evading AI torps with my ships so I go for the best turn circle and less of a torpedo belt.
Torpedo belt is usually level 2 or 3 depending on the torps, rarely 4.
Other than that advice is just to learn the pattern of movement when the AI launches torps: they will close range and turn broadside, launch a spread (sometimes they turn too fast and don't launch) then they will attempt to increase range and repeat.
4)All or Nothing is generally lighter if you go for a lot of belt armor. If you don't change anything and just max out the 3rd layer of citadel armor it will still be lighter.
5) There is a flash fire chance stat on the stat list, towards the end of ship details. Haven't seen a ship with a value of below 7.5% explode.
6) Long range seems to be around 12.5km (at least for older patches (1.08.9)).
7) IMO running RDF/Radio AND Radar is useless.
The accuracy bonus from comms is 5-15% and late game is essentially insignificant, and you will probably be out of range regardless (depends on play style of course). Plus you'll have the techs from research to help with it.
RDF is useful for directing you to the enemy, but radar does the same and offers much more in terms of recon, spotting and accuracy buffs.
8) Torpedoes... I used to like them, not anymore. Mid to late game I find them detrimental as the AI usually evades them. Unless they are spammed, but then you are somewhat of a floating bomb as they tend to explode.
9) HE shells:
Incendiary and High Capacity don't do partial pen damage, anything above does.
Why is it important?
If you don't run a firestarter build and want the secondary guns to be able to hit heavily armored targets (somewhat) hard while staying effective against lighter ones, this is probablt the choice, high end AP might also work, but it will somewhat limit your main guns. Nose fuse usually works well for destroying lighter armored targets with your main guns while offering good damage and with later non fire oriented fillers can even burn ships down or make then surrender (provided you have a good amount of secondary guns of course (i.e 10 per side).
10) The armor bug works with citadel layers as well. Their maximum thickness is linked to the current thickness of the deck/belt armor.
i.e: increase it to 15 inch belt and set the citadel to 7.5 inches, reduce the belt to 10 inch and you still have a 7.5 inch citadel. Didn't know it affected gun turrets as well.
11) As I tend to use a design that's close to the CA in the video, I feel somewhat "qualified" to talk about the armoring in this case(It's my opinion and experience, yours may differ):
6 inches of deck is overkill, 3.5 main and 3 or 2.5 aft and bow is what I use, never saw a full deck pen.
10 inches belt, 6 inch bow and aft belt. With krupp 4 you are effectively impervious to DD caliber guns and most secondaries (aside from capital ships). I go with the most citadel belt armor and round/good looking numbers on the deck (i.e. 1.5, 1, 0.7).
I almost always tend to close in to 10km or less, so deck armor is not really important for me.
I also use the Turtleback scheme and against lighter guns it holds extremely well. Had 127 old French ships (they built a couple dreadnoughts a year or 2 before) go against 3 of my CAs (early 30s or late 20s, as I almost speedrun CA hull tech. 19000t, 4x3 10 inch Mk3 turrets with +20% barrel length, RDF, hydro 3. Price for one ship was less than 177M$).
Almost at the very beginning the battle one CA took 2 15 or 14 inch shells to the engines and then a torp. 2 engines were flooded for the rest of the battle, later took 2 more torps that I didn't notice. still was at 50-70 floatablity. I was on the defensive for most of the battle, screening for her with the other two CAs.
End result was 5 out of 6 enemy battleships (mk2 or 3 14 and 15 inch guns) survived with less than 10 other ships.
My CAs ran out of main gun ammo (main reason why the BBs lived), lost almost all of their secondary guns (4x double 4 inch and 4x double 3 inch guns per side, unarmored) and had around 50-60% hull integrity remaining.
If you think I'm wrong in any of the points above you are welcome to correct me.
Addition to point 6 (long range accuracy). You can see the bonus of long range accuracy tech in the top of the accuracy listing.
Pre-1900 in my campaign so I get (a lousy) 0.1-0.3% long-range bonus when I hover my mouse over the sea from 1km out to 10km-ish.
As a note regarding draft- that measurement is the distance between the keel of the ship and the waterline. It doesn’t have much to do with how much of the ship is seen above water or the distance between the waterline and the main deck.
The game has freeboard and draft combined right now. I've suggested they seperate them.
Make a mortar ship with the german armored cruiser one in 1880 using the 11 or 12 inch guns and make the barrels 20% shorter but increase the diameter by .9
I find the price tag of heavy/armored cruisers keeps them from being the majority of my fleet. They make up about 1/4 of my cruiser force, with torpedo boats, destroyers, and submarines being a good half of my navy.
For long range vs base accuracy. TLDR : long range beats base accuracy only at ~25km and higher. Which make it utterly useless unless you are building a dedicated sniping boat late game.
Longer version : I tried in my campaign since I was watching while playing. With Tier 3 tech, long range catch up with base accuracy at 7500-10000 range (IE accuracy is equal whether you use coincidence or stereo). It stay equals up until 20-25k where long range starts to be better. Which mean it's entirely useless until late game (since you can't hit at 25+km, even with long range accuracy I have 0.something% in 1918). And also useless with smaller calibre that simply can't fire that far (DD, CL).
Honestly, long range accuracy is a noob trap. Not only it's for 25+km but the increase of accuracy is not even that big. The loss below 10km compared to base accuracy is much bigger. For whatever reason it doesn't factor the fact that long range for a DD is not the same than for a BB, or how long range in 1900 is not the same than in 1945.
25 Kilomiters huh? Good lord there's not even that many guns that can fire that far (BB guns come to mind), let alone hit something at that distance. But yeah that is Dedicated SNIPER ship: 15 to 20 inch guns with MAX LENGTH, as little smoke interference as possible, Radar if thats a thing and best Range finder you can find.
Although I think Stealth could experiment with it in his current campaign, started in 1910 i think and its now 1924.
Hey stealth I love your videos, mainly Ultimate Admiral Dreadnoughts, I play it any time I can. You helped me with tutorials with this game, I just want to say, thank you, hopefully you see this.
Glad to hear it!
You should build a ship that uses the costal Defence ship hull I first seen that hull at the year 1890
Heavy Cruisers, the Workhorses of your fleet and technically the Smallest capital ship you can have, depending on who you ask. As a general navy term Heavy Cruisers have 8inch guns (203 milimeters for those in the Metric system), anything smaller then that is usually a "Light cruiser" ,(which usually have 6 inch guns or 152mm) but who cares right? Cruisers more then any ship type are the ones that change the most over the course of Navel History, going from effectively "budget" battleships to what we picture as a "heavy" cruiser and like wise from "large" DDs to "Light" cruisers.
27:20 you were modifying the turret guns while looking at the casemates is why there wasnt a change.
Oh my bad
Heavy cruisers are usually the main ships in my fleets, i find them to be the most bang for your buck. i tend to build 2 classes, 1 "conventional" one but with crazy guns to deal with bbs, and the other utter hilarious one the dd hunter,, basically as many guns as possible with incemdiary he, amd since these guns weigh nothing a crapton of arnor, so they can shield for the bb busters
Heavy cruisers built like small dreadnaughts can defenitely sink more modern battleships no problem, have two of them pummeling the BB with HE... So many guns and shells into the air are gonna do the job if they hit all the time.
Ships range is not about ability to travel far away. You will be able to travel, but it will be slow travel and very slow in the fight (without fuel). Ships range it is mostly about generation of missions.
Abut rudders. Turning radius shown nothing. Yes, in case you want to draw circles unbalanced is looking better = circle is smaller, but unbalanced is slower in changing angle, so in case you need to turn 90 degrees left, than 90 degrees right, balanced will do it much much and MUCH faster. For combat use balanced is only selection because overall maneuverability is MUCH better. I mean "Course change time" numbers in ships stats table. Don't underestimate it.
Yes, it is all from my point of view =).
Last time I checked, long range accuracy is >10km. At least that's what I got from comparing gun accuracy in the ship designer with the two rangefinders.
Stealth, I was wondering if you heard about people being banned for criticizing the game devs? Love all your videos also.
I've had people comment that, yes
For those who really want to go full history on their game, see the 1890 Armored Cruiser as a Battlecruiser, because their job was literally the same
IDK about everyone else but I have had more problems with the Light Cruiser CL. For me I haven't played every nation but the rear turrets have trouble firing in most every case no matter the placements, a bug ? idk so far it's Italy and Japan
Just wanted to add that beam and draught have an effect on accuracy (depending on other factors such as weather,weight offset and such).Also had a question about propellant and how does it tie in with shell characteristics mean doesn't the propellant just launch the shell out of gun.Apart from velocities how can it impact effects such as fire chance and he dmg?
Barrel lenght adding to reload time (or reducing in case of making barrels shorter) is kinda stupid (balancing mechanic, still stupid). IRL Leopard 2 with L55 gun reloads as fast as one withL44 gun. Btw never had any troubles fitting 4x3 9inch turrets on german 20+kt CA hull (balancing that ship was interesting).
like the only reason I can imagine here is that the heavier barrel is longer to lower to the loading position, and raise back, although should not be a problem with man handlable rounds or advanced autoloaders like on Des Moines-class
Damn, it would've been cool if you did started as Japan in the 1890s.
If the main tower is badly damaged, why not just go as close as you can get?
I am very curious as to why the sponsor isn't just more expensive lego
More expensive Lego?
Hey stealth I came across something that confused me in my game. Britain has collapsed and has become ungoverned territory. Is there a way more me to take over their territory or is this just a bug?
I believe they're a neutral/minor nation now. They might rise up again randomly. Don't know how you can take their territory.
Ok thanks for the quick reply and your thoughts on what that might be 😃
Ty Stealth for this video. Now i know where i went wrong in some of my designs that i have made in the game. But i have to ask do you have your own Discord chat channel? if so can you please pm me the details.
Yes I have my own Discord. Linked in the description
29:21 look at the ships name
They need to turn down the power on AI, it is insanely powerful.
Lol what?
The game has a number of things wrong when it comes to technical terms (quite a few actually). One that really jumps out in this video is the use of the term "draught". The draught of a ship is a measurement of how far below the water line the bottom of the keel sits. The height of the deck from the water is termed "freeboard". While the game has bugs aplenty in the mechanics of it all, it's the incorrect use of terminology that really annoys me.
1st