Confirming the vaseline theory as well. I have listed some tips ad tricks and foibles / peculiarities of the engine below as well. I have a Leyland P76 engine in my Triumph Stag. The P76 4.4 litre engine is another derivative of the Buick 215 - just like the Rover 3.5. I tried to change the oil by draining the sump and changing the filter at the same time - pretty much like every other oil change I have ever done. Bad move. The next mistake I made was not filling up the new oil filter before putting it on. When I cranked the engine, the oil pump spat what it had left in it into the filter, but it was not enough momentum to pull the new oil all the way up from the sump to fill the pump again....and it lost pressure, dumped it back and sat there cavitating with an air lock. Result - no oil pressure no matter what I tried. Spoke to a Rover guy who told me the following: - First thing I needed to do was to take my oil filter back off and fill it with oil. - Next, remove the bolts from the cover of the oil pump and bring the cover down slowly, as you need to be careful not to let the pump gears fall out. ------------- NOTE: The gear teeth are matched and if the cogs are taken out, the teeth need to go back in next to the one they were next to when they came out, so if you DO take them out, make sure they are marked in a way you can put them back the way they were. The gears are also aluminium, so they don't take kindly to bouncing off a concrete floor....ask me how I know. - Next, pack /fill that pump housing as much as you can in and around the cogs with vaseline, but try to keep the area around the oil holes free. - Cut yourself a new gasket and refit the cover. - Make sure your engine oil is topped off at just over the full level - Remove the distributor (marking its position on the mounting) and spin up the oil pump by using a flat head screwdriver bit in a drill (as you were doing)......BUT the Rover bloke ALSO gave me a very good tip with this one: -------------- TIP: To make sure your drill bit does not fly off the pump shaft (especially when you crank that drill up in high gear, which you will need to do), cut a short length of ordinary garden hose that will fit over the end of your drill bit and the pump shaft. The hose will not only stop your screwdriver bit from flying off, it will also help hold it more central on the shaft, so at high speeds it is easier to hang onto the drill. - When the drill starts to labour, you have oil pressure, but leave it running like that for AT LEAST a minute in order that it pushes the vaseline through the engine oil galleries to a relief point somewhere. - Start your engine and get the engine warm up so that the vaseline melts all the way and moves down to the sump with the oil. Presto - oil pressure every time she starts. One more thing - use an oil viscosity that is slightly thicker than you would normally use on a revival (or use an additive to increase viscosity) and make sure she's a good oil. These engines will take a lot of punishment (including running with no oil pressure for a while, so I doubt you did any damage), but they DO need a GOOD oil with a slightly thicker viscosity in order to maintain oil pressure with a hot engine at low rpm. By the way - they run with an oil pressure between 10 and 25 pounds at idle, but will run up to 70psi at high RPM (around 5000-ish), so don't be concerned if the gauge reads a bit low after you get over this minor hurdle. Good luck!
Kevin, I have had a lot of the Rover versions of these and its very common for them not to prime a dry oil pump after a rebuid or after standing for a long time. The cure is to pack the pump with vasoline then turn it using an electric drill (as you did in the video) until pressure builds.
Right? My wife saw me watching one of their videos and was like... oh so there is another couple like us lol. Perfect match doing what they love. We're in the middle of a 383+A833+Procharger, gasser axled YJ wrangler project.
I inherited my maternal grandmother's 1966 Olds F - 85 !!! This was in the 1980's. My grandmother didn't do much maintenance on it...and it got to where I couldn't afford to have all of it done. I sold it to a guy who wanted the engine...which actually was in great shape. They
I believe that's a Buick design engine which means that that oil pump probably lost its prime pop it open pack it with Vaseline and put it back together you won't have any more problems you'll have oil pressure almost instantly I did that with a Buick 3.8 231 whatever you want to call it
@@Karmy. A full restoration would probably make it too valuable to be a practical daily, especially in Iowa winters. Focus on reliability and rust prevention over cosmetics if you want a daily on a daily budget.
Pull the oil sending unit out and with a Turkey baster..keep dripping oil down the hole until it's full. Put the sending unit back in an " M.A.G.A " You get oil pressure again ..It least it worked for me that way on a 75 dodge van
This car looks like a corvair had a kid with a Bel air or impala maby a Chevelle and then that kid had a kid with a nova who happened to be it's cousin!.... Either way has a lot of Chevy attributes and I like it. ALOT!
@@chrisatcoldharbour thats correct i used to drag race these engines here in the uk fill the pump gear housing with vasoline and prime it with a decent power electric drill, you will feel it pumping the oil
Kevin, you don’t have to apologize for not getting it running and driving. We watch your content because it’s entertaining as hell. I’ve binge watched your entire catalog over the last couple months to the point where I don’t watch the new video for a couple of days so by the time I watch it. It’s only a couple more days til there’s more. It makes sense in my head. What happened to Golden rust or bust? You mentioned Angus as well. Being too busy is a good problem to have. Keep up the great work, you and Mook’s channels are among my favorite in terms of information and taking yourselves so seriously. When I grow up wanna be like Kevin. Don’t stress about the oil pump. It’s probably something stupid. Start with the basics and work out from there.
Super cool,my grandmother has two 63 F-85 convertible 2 doors. One of them is a 4-speed car and the other is an automatic,grandpa swapped the factory T-10 for a Super T-10,don’t worry they still have the factory trans. When I was little they traded a factory W-30 442 with a standard trans for a 72 442 convertible auto car. They had the car repainted after only a few weeks of owning it and it’s only seen daylight twice since then. I’ve been a Chevy guy since I built my first car,72 ElCamino when I was 15. I never really understood the appeal of the Oldsmobile’s as a kid but at 43 they’re starting to grow on me. Keep up the good work. 👌
I love these F-85s. I bought my oldest daughter one her senior year. It passed on to three siblings over a 14 year period. Still looked and ran good when we gave it to a friends youngest.
I can confirm what is said about the oil pump. You should be able to take the pump end plate off, pack it with grease or boy butter, and get your pump to pick up. Yes, use your drill to pre lube and confirm it works. I owned two of those, a 63 and a 61. The 63 was a Flintstones car and a heavy drinker. I pulled the engine out of it, overhauled it, put it in the 61 that was in much better condition body wise. I ignored the book's instructions to pack that pump with grease, had to re-do that part in-frame. It wasn't easy, but it's do-able. Original transmissions in those were a "Turbo Hydra-matic 3 speed," unique to those cars at the time. No torque converter. First gear 3.5:1, second gear 0.5:1, third gear 1:1. Radical shift out of first if your foot wasn't really in it. With the range selector in "S" (Super!) it would hold 2nd gear until you hit 60 mph ... go to third and warp speed. Only car I've ever driven that actually settled into the road at high speed. All those factors caused me to take a lot of State roads during the days of nationwide 55 mph, as Smokey was more likely to be on the parallel Interstate watching out for Bandit. Also had to run it harder to get those chromatic rings to seat and it was a lot more fun to drive. Do not run coolant stronger than a 50-50 mix, or it will get hot (VOE talking here). If that engine was rebuilt, drive it by the temperature gauge (don't trust an idiot light) until it has broken in. When you get it on the road, I think you'll be surprised.
Supreme job on the electrical diagnosis! On the oil pump, since you diagnosed that it wasn’t the distributor drive, or a dislodged pickup, I would image these possible paths: poor prime, sheered gear, wrong pump…I.e. pickup tube leaving the oil intake filter out of the oil sump, or a clogged/plugged line.
One thing I've found that helps for loading low cars onto high trailers is to run the parking jack on the trailer as high as it'll go. Not as good as a tilt-bed I'm sure, but it was good enough to get my dad's Triumph onto a trailer that the exhaust caught on otherwise. Cool rig, I hope to see it again, with oil pressure!
My great-grandmother GAVE me a F-85, 1965, with 43k miles in 1989 that she won new at a picnic. But it had the odd-fire V6, 3 on the tree, and a bad heater core, so I could not WAIT to get rid of it. It had the dumb-bell grill and a pretty dash as well.
Try priming the oil pump by pumping oil back through the oil gauge sender unit fitting. If oil pump gears dry out the will not create a vacuum allowing the pump to pull the oil from the sump. These engines rights sold to England and it is in many rovers MG and early Range Rovers. Over filling the sump bringing the level closer to the pump may work also!!
Being from the UK, this is one of the rare opportunities I know something about. Across the pond here we know this engine as a Rover 3.5 V8. The problem you’re having is the fact that the engine has been rebuilt, and the oil pump has not been primed. As others have mentioned in the comments this has to be done by packing Vaseline into the pump. from experience it will not self prime. The clattering noise from the top of the engine, is most likely because it has hydraulic cam followers. I am sure this week with cars should be able to advise.
@@79royalknight43 it still looks just as good while the loser is watching the tail lights pull away at the track just always look at it from the front and the back and you will be OK
I am so in love with that body style. 4 door or not, so cool looking. This era is so overlooked in my opinion…. Sort of the gap between 1960 and 1964. This genre was between big, gaudy fined cars and clean, sanitary, strong, bold 1965 - 1969 style. There is a delicate esthetic that just goes away after a couple years.
Oil pump priming on Buick/Olds 215 - You have to prime those oil pumps as they are above the oil level in the pan. One way is to put a piece-of-pipe in the pressure sender outlet, connect a length of clearline to it sized so it fits snug on the pipe, and fill it with oil. Prop up the line holding the oil so it will gravity feed into the engine. Rotate the engine backwards (by hand) to pull the oil into the pump gears. This works best with oil already in the pan so it will flush some air out of the pick-up tube. It's usually helpful to pull the spark plugs while doing this so you don't have to work against engine compression. Once the pump is primed then you can reconnect the oil pressure sender and crank to see if it builds pressure. Another way to do this is to pull the end of the oil pump if you can get to it, pack the pump gears with vasoline, and reassemble. As long as the mechanical parts are good either way should work.
Kevin and mook i just wanted to say thank you for all that you two do! I love watching y'all's videos and encouraging people to do revival's. I just picked up my first f100 i get to tinker on and try semi restoring.
I Enjoyed the Video, growing up constantly rebuilding cars, trucks and Motorcycles going to technology school at 12 I have finally decided to help clean up and repair some of our heritage I do appreciate your time and feed. My one day you will get to see my 1956 Buick Century Riviera, it is coming along very strong, thanks again
I’m just here to say that this is by far one of the most informative automotive revival channels out there bro. Keep doing your thing and all the info in the comments is pretty cool too. Pretty sure all of us here watching wish we could do this for a living for fun like you man.
Just got done doing some cleanup on my 01 ranger, bought the thing a week ago. This is a perfect way to relax after dealing with 106°F real feel in SW Florida
These engines are notorious for losing oil prime when dry from sitting or a fresh build you must prime the oil system with a pressure feed once you prime it it should be fine ask your local engine shop for the tank set up or check ebay there not that expensive
I bought one new in '61. It was a 2-door tan coupe. Loved it. Only issues I remember between '61 and '68 were the steering gear that kept getting loose and the radiator that kept plugging up. The engine ran great. Wish I still had it, and the '68 VW bus we bought to replace the Olds. They'd probably be worth more now than what I paid for them new.
I had a 1970 cutlass sport that I swapped a 455 into I loved cutlasses and I’ve never heard of this car but damn it’s nice I would love to get the turbo version it even came with methanol injection Olds was way ahead of the game
You may have run that engine just long enough with zero oil pressure, to have spun the bearings. This happened to me, when the machine shop did'nt align the holes in the main bearings with the holes in the crank saddles.
I've got one of these engines in my 1971 Rover P6. Awesome engine and very tolerant so hopefully you've not done too much damage. As everyone has said you need to pack the pump with Vaseline to get it to prime.
Fun fact: squishing a tube doesnt affect flow much until its almost smashed shut... Also I think thats the first time ive seen you bust out a fancy points file!
It's not about aerodynamics when you're towing, its the weight on the pin. If you load with the trailer heavier at the back than the front it'll pivot over the wheels and you'll get negative pin weight which unloads the rear of the towing vehicle and leads to a very pucker friendly ride home.
I had a 1964 Olds F-85 "three on the tree" manual with a 330 cu in high compression single 4 pumper Carter that drank high test fuel in quantity. It came from the factory special order exactly as described and I was second owner. It was a "sleeper", no external chrome except the Olds 330 Rocket emblem on the front of the cowl each side. It was fun to blow off Corvets at the light because it was a four door family body that they didn't expect. I had to sell it because it was eating me out of house and home for thel and those bias ply tires that never lasted long compared to today's steel belted tires. BUT, it was sure a fun car in the 70's!
hey man I have a 64' olds 98 I live in India and its the only one in my county so no parts for it here. you know of any good websites where I can get parts for it?
Not everything goes well guys. You could try priming the oil pump. Remove it and pack it with vaseline or something similar. Spin it with the drill until you get pressure.
I had one of these! Got it in 1977 from an older couple who bought it off the showroom floor when it was new. Same year and color as yours, but a 2-door, with matching color interior and bucket seats. It was an awesome car, and I learned about the aluminum V-8's from digging up information about it (if you own it, you need to know it). JC Whitney is your friend when it comes to this car, (and lots of others) the starter is rebuildable by John Q Public.....back when they made things that the owner could actually work on. Awesome :D
For all of you who wrote in that a certain brand of car used this type of pump, there were many different brands that used this type of oil pump on their engines. Ford, Dodge ,Buick/Olds/Pontiac, Jeep, International, and many others ,including AMC. External oil pumps kept you from having to remove an oil pan to access the pump. P.S. Kevin, not only is that aluminum V-8 engine unique to Buick/Pontiac/Olds, those cars also had the transmission in the trunk. The th350 conversion included installing a differential to replace the Powerglide/Jetaway transaxle.
39:00 you guys are awesome! We appreciate all the f***ing good content. Seriously. shooting, editing, on top of actually working on cars. You deserve every bit of your success. And making your hobby into a cool profession. much love.
I bought the same car and even the same color back in 1971 for $300 in excellent condition, I drove for 3 years, sold it to my sister, it was a great running car!
As a Brit with a little experience on the Rover derivative of this engine, I agree with everyone else who's saying that the oil pump needs priming, preferably by packing it with Vaseline. Hopefully the rest of the engine is good. Cool to see that Aceca, shame it's missing the original BMW-derived Bristol I6 motor though, those things are brilliant.
40:31 rip that FRAM off, throw a couple quarts back in the pan, spin the pump with the drill, and see what it does. Also be worth cutting the FRAM open to see if it has let go of chunks of paper element to plug up oil galleries with.
@@ImTheJoker4u FRAM Bombs, I call them. They're great for setting out on cinder blocks at the rifle range(Fill 'em with colored water for good effect!) but I'd never use them on an engine. Friend of mine in HS bought a '67 Mustang that'd been somewhat hotrodded. 351w in it, bit of a cam, high-stall converter on a C6, that sorta stuff. He complained to me that the oil pressure was super low...5-6 pounds at idle and never more than about 30 pounds, alongside a LOT of valve tick. I took one look at the filter, told him to go get a Motorcraft, Purolator, or Wix oil filter, 7qts 10w30, and we'll change on the oil. Whaddayaknow it suddenly found 25 more pounds of oil pressure! And the valves stopped clattering!
@@stevemiller6766 I cringe when I see one on a classic car. Like c'mon dude do even half a second's googling and you'll see FRAMs suck. I buy Motorcraft FL-1A's. Fits the two 300cid I6s I own and it's just a rebadged Purolator. Wix, also really good shit.
We all hope you keep this one for a while, we want to see you drive it! This is actually incredible because I just bought a 61 F 85 a month ago and it's sitting in my garage right now, although everything is meant on mine but my engine is seized, he seems to have the other way around, solid engine, but that frame and interior looks like it's going
HI I had a couple of these, one Buick and one Olds, the reasons that they ended up in the junk yard were the cams were never broken in at the dealer so they would lose there lobes (a big problem for GM into the '80s), the front end joints were very undersized and would wear out at
@@ajorsomething4935 sure they are still made of metal. But not like the THICK medal they use to use. The shit they use today will bend if you look at it hard.
Rover in the UK bought the tooling/rights from GM for this engine. It was used in Rover cars and the Range Rover/various Land Rovers from 1970 til the early 2000s or thereabouts. Edit: you already knew this. Hey, I might have a starter off my old Discovery you can have.
Totally. My dad has an original MG BGT V8 from 1975. Same engine as in this I think, buick 1950s block with MG's own twist on it. Range Rover in the 70s used the same I think.
Little late to the party since im on vacation. But I really cant wait for a part 2 of this car. You guys are killing it keep up the top notch quality content.
Wow after that car wash and the soap and rinse she looks amazing while wet... it's going to look amazing with some Shine Juice like Derek from vicegripgarage would say love that dark red color that Olds Has.. Sweet ride Kevin @16:15 @Junkyard Digs
Yes! I had a 1961 F85 in High School in 1965. Paid $900 for it at a used car dealer. It was a POJ actually. Even more so after I accidentally left the radiator cap off and it blew all the water out of the radiator, over heated and either burned a valve or blew a head gasket. I just junked it after that.
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Go to decked.com/JYD to get free shipping on your Decked Drawer System!
You didn't even mention the bottle opener lol
My mom had a sweet Bird egg blue 64 f85. Found an old picture of her on the hood of it. 😎🤘🇺🇸
@@clinthansen7073 surprise feature 😎
everyone in the comments is saying the oil pump needs to be primed, big problem on those engines. gotta pack the pump with vaseline!
@@nickloss YUP. Had the turbo version in a 72 Vega back in the 80's. Carry oil and a filter and a jar of Vaseline in the trunk.
Confirming the vaseline theory as well. I have listed some tips ad tricks and foibles / peculiarities of the engine below as well. I have a Leyland P76 engine in my Triumph Stag. The P76 4.4 litre engine is another derivative of the Buick 215 - just like the Rover 3.5.
I tried to change the oil by draining the sump and changing the filter at the same time - pretty much like every other oil change I have ever done. Bad move. The next mistake I made was not filling up the new oil filter before putting it on. When I cranked the engine, the oil pump spat what it had left in it into the filter, but it was not enough momentum to pull the new oil all the way up from the sump to fill the pump again....and it lost pressure, dumped it back and sat there cavitating with an air lock. Result - no oil pressure no matter what I tried.
Spoke to a Rover guy who told me the following:
- First thing I needed to do was to take my oil filter back off and fill it with oil.
- Next, remove the bolts from the cover of the oil pump and bring the cover down slowly, as you need to be careful not to let the pump gears fall out.
------------- NOTE: The gear teeth are matched and if the cogs are taken out, the teeth need to go back in next to the one they were next to when they came out, so if you DO take them out, make sure they are marked in a way you can put them back the way they were. The gears are also aluminium, so they don't take kindly to bouncing off a concrete floor....ask me how I know.
- Next, pack /fill that pump housing as much as you can in and around the cogs with vaseline, but try to keep the area around the oil holes free.
- Cut yourself a new gasket and refit the cover.
- Make sure your engine oil is topped off at just over the full level
- Remove the distributor (marking its position on the mounting) and spin up the oil pump by using a flat head screwdriver bit in a drill (as you were doing)......BUT the Rover bloke ALSO gave me a very good tip with this one:
-------------- TIP: To make sure your drill bit does not fly off the pump shaft (especially when you crank that drill up in high gear, which you will need to do), cut a short length of ordinary garden hose that will fit over the end of your drill bit and the pump shaft. The hose will not only stop your screwdriver bit from flying off, it will also help hold it more central on the shaft, so at high speeds it is easier to hang onto the drill.
- When the drill starts to labour, you have oil pressure, but leave it running like that for AT LEAST a minute in order that it pushes the vaseline through the engine oil galleries to a relief point somewhere.
- Start your engine and get the engine warm up so that the vaseline melts all the way and moves down to the sump with the oil. Presto - oil pressure every time she starts.
One more thing - use an oil viscosity that is slightly thicker than you would normally use on a revival (or use an additive to increase viscosity) and make sure she's a good oil. These engines will take a lot of punishment (including running with no oil pressure for a while, so I doubt you did any damage), but they DO need a GOOD oil with a slightly thicker viscosity in order to maintain oil pressure with a hot engine at low rpm.
By the way - they run with an oil pressure between 10 and 25 pounds at idle, but will run up to 70psi at high RPM (around 5000-ish), so don't be concerned if the gauge reads a bit low after you get over this minor hurdle.
Good luck!
Mookster
Oil pump needs to be filled with Vaseline when the engine is rebuilt on those engines.
Kevin, I have had a lot of the Rover versions of these and its very common for them not to prime a dry oil pump after a rebuid or after standing for a long time. The cure is to pack the pump with vasoline then turn it using an electric drill (as you did in the video) until pressure builds.
rover used a Buick engine, or rather they bought the engine from Buick to make it themselves
you and Mook are just so damn great together, love ya'll
Right? My wife saw me watching one of their videos and was like... oh so there is another couple like us lol. Perfect match doing what they love. We're in the middle of a 383+A833+Procharger, gasser axled YJ wrangler project.
I inherited my maternal grandmother's 1966 Olds F - 85 !!! This was in the 1980's. My grandmother didn't do much maintenance on it...and it got to where I couldn't afford to have all of it done. I sold it to a guy who wanted the engine...which actually was in great shape. They
I believe that's a Buick design engine which means that that oil pump probably lost its prime pop it open pack it with Vaseline and put it back together you won't have any more problems you'll have oil pressure almost instantly I did that with a Buick 3.8 231 whatever you want to call it
Yup, pack the pump with assembly lube/Vaseline.
I was coming here to say the same. My 68 Buick 350 has the same gear style pump.
@@AutoAli amc have the same problem
Been there done it also, vasoline is the only way I ever got these pumps to prime
If you have a hand pump you could back-prime the system hook it to the pressure port and pump it full of oil.
I'd actually like to see you keep this one for a while.
First he needs a classic tow rig, which he has but only needs to work out a few bugs and sell that depreciating maroon truck he keeps using.
It's begging for a full restoration and to be a daily
@@Karmy. I was thinking it'd make a really cool small tire no prep car!
@@Karmy. A full restoration would probably make it too valuable to be a practical daily, especially in Iowa winters. Focus on reliability and rust prevention over cosmetics if you want a daily on a daily budget.
If it’s a gear driven pump take off the cover fill it with Vaseline to prime. Happen to me once on an old Buick.
Yes that will work and build oil pressure again it just needs a little help.
Pull the oil sending unit out and with a Turkey baster..keep dripping oil down the hole until it's full. Put the sending unit back in an " M.A.G.A " You get oil pressure again ..It least it worked for me that way on a 75 dodge van
This car looks like a corvair had a kid with a Bel air or impala maby a Chevelle and then that kid had a kid with a nova who happened to be it's cousin!.... Either way has a lot of Chevy attributes and I like it. ALOT!
That engine in rovers in the UK will not prime when the engine has been rebuild unless it is packed with greese.
@@chrisatcoldharbour thats correct i used to drag race these engines here in the uk fill the pump gear housing with vasoline and prime it with a decent power electric drill, you will feel it pumping the oil
Kevin, you don’t have to apologize for not getting it running and driving. We watch your content because it’s entertaining as hell. I’ve binge watched your entire catalog over the last couple months to the point where I don’t watch the new video for a couple of days so by the time I watch it. It’s only a couple more days til there’s more. It makes sense in my head. What happened to Golden rust or bust? You mentioned Angus as well. Being too busy is a good problem to have. Keep up the great work, you and Mook’s channels are among my favorite in terms of information and taking yourselves so seriously. When I grow up wanna be like Kevin.
Don’t stress about the oil pump. It’s probably something stupid. Start with the basics and work out from there.
Super cool,my grandmother has two 63 F-85 convertible 2 doors. One of them is a 4-speed car and the other is an automatic,grandpa swapped the factory T-10 for a Super T-10,don’t worry they still have the factory trans. When I was little they traded a factory W-30 442 with a standard trans for a 72 442 convertible auto car. They had the car repainted after only a few weeks of owning it and it’s only seen daylight twice since then. I’ve been a Chevy guy since I built my first car,72 ElCamino when I was 15. I never really understood the appeal of the Oldsmobile’s as a kid but at 43 they’re starting to grow on me. Keep up the good work. 👌
Just prime the pump homes. Rovers have same issue if they sit for cpl year's. No biggie.
I love these F-85s. I bought my oldest daughter one her senior year. It passed on to three siblings over a 14 year period. Still looked and ran good when we gave it to a friends youngest.
Being a land rover guy, seeing that alloy block with no oil leaking from every seal I'd say 100% been out of the car and rebuilt
In Australia we had a 4.4 version that was actually a very good motor in the P76 Leyland.
Did GM sell the entire aluminum V8 rights, tooling, etc to Rover soon after they stopped putting them in the Olds in the US?
I know they grabbed it for the range rover which was released in 1970 so I'd say a couple years before that for the pre production models and testing
@@bossdog1480 the 4.4 was a good engine. Cant say the last time I saw a p76
The Brits fucked it up. Which was virtually impossible, but they managed.
I can confirm what is said about the oil pump. You should be able to take the pump end plate off, pack it with grease or boy butter, and get your pump to pick up. Yes, use your drill to pre lube and confirm it works.
I owned two of those, a 63 and a 61. The 63 was a Flintstones car and a heavy drinker. I pulled the engine out of it, overhauled it, put it in the 61 that was in much better condition body wise. I ignored the book's instructions to pack that pump with grease, had to re-do that part in-frame. It wasn't easy, but it's do-able.
Original transmissions in those were a "Turbo Hydra-matic 3 speed," unique to those cars at the time. No torque converter. First gear 3.5:1, second gear 0.5:1, third gear 1:1. Radical shift out of first if your foot wasn't really in it. With the range selector in "S" (Super!) it would hold 2nd gear until you hit 60 mph ... go to third and warp speed. Only car I've ever driven that actually settled into the road at high speed. All those factors caused me to take a lot of State roads during the days of nationwide 55 mph, as Smokey was more likely to be on the parallel Interstate watching out for Bandit. Also had to run it harder to get those chromatic rings to seat and it was a lot more fun to drive.
Do not run coolant stronger than a 50-50 mix, or it will get hot (VOE talking here). If that engine was rebuilt, drive it by the temperature gauge (don't trust an idiot light) until it has broken in.
When you get it on the road, I think you'll be surprised.
This was honestly not a disappointment ! Id love to see another episode To see the diagnosis !!
Ps this was not a shit show ! It was great
Embrace the test light!
What Would Wes know about using a test light? 🤣🤣
@@cpedersen474 He'll pull out the Pico!
@@tsp159 🤣🤣
Wish more cool channels would comment on similar videos cuz that's how I just found yours.
I like it's got DGHD style machines
hook a scope up to it?
Supreme job on the electrical diagnosis! On the oil pump, since you diagnosed that it wasn’t the distributor drive, or a dislodged pickup, I would image these possible paths: poor prime, sheered gear, wrong pump…I.e. pickup tube leaving the oil intake filter out of the oil sump, or a clogged/plugged line.
Dude, I love this car. Don't give up on her.
I agree
One thing I've found that helps for loading low cars onto high trailers is to run the parking jack on the trailer as high as it'll go. Not as good as a tilt-bed I'm sure, but it was good enough to get my dad's Triumph onto a trailer that the exhaust caught on otherwise. Cool rig, I hope to see it again, with oil pressure!
My great-grandmother GAVE me a F-85, 1965, with 43k miles in 1989 that she won new at a picnic. But it had the odd-fire V6, 3 on the tree, and a bad heater core, so I could not WAIT to get rid of it. It had the dumb-bell grill and a pretty dash as well.
Nothing makes a man more happy to see a new Junkyard Digs upload!
Its 4.24am for me, had to stay up because of kevins friday upload😁
I mean riding
Right on brother
Nothing?!? You forgot about beer.
Except for winning the lottery.
Man. I just got in from doing some body work and I see this pop up on my screen. Made me happy
Try priming the oil pump by pumping oil back through the oil gauge sender unit fitting. If oil pump gears dry out the will not create a vacuum allowing the pump to pull the oil from the sump. These engines rights sold to England and it is in many rovers MG and early Range Rovers. Over filling the sump bringing the level closer to the pump may work also!!
Worked on lots of these, my first car was a 63 F-85. As stated earlier, remove oil pump cover
, pack with Vaseline, fill with new oil and enjoy.
Being from the UK, this is one of the rare opportunities I know something about. Across the pond here we know this engine as a Rover 3.5 V8. The problem you’re having is the fact that the engine has been rebuilt, and the oil pump has not been primed. As others have mentioned in the comments this has to be done by packing Vaseline into the pump. from experience it will not self prime. The clattering noise from the top of the engine, is most likely because it has hydraulic cam followers. I am sure this week with cars should be able to advise.
You do know Olds guys are just drooling at the amount of trim this thing has left, right?
Yes, yes I am
Meh 4 door
@@79royalknight43 Id rather have a 4 door.
@@79royalknight43 it still looks just as good while the loser is watching the tail lights pull away at the track just always look at it from the front and the back and you will be OK
Don't forget about us young guys
Pour some oil down the sensor hole. I primed a fresh rebuild that way once.
That is one of those, "I don't care it's a 4 door" cars. Dig it.
yeah that car is sweet even being a 4 door.
Right?!
I am so in love with that body style. 4 door or not, so cool looking. This era is so overlooked in my opinion…. Sort of the gap between 1960 and 1964. This genre was between big, gaudy fined cars and clean, sanitary, strong, bold 1965 - 1969 style. There is a delicate esthetic that just goes away after a couple years.
Having 4 doors makes it better.
4 doors or station wagons are always better 😁
Ouuuhhhh Those rims look pretty nice! I also like the casual call out for the trailer XD
Science man is also a car guy??! POGGERS
Oil pump priming on Buick/Olds 215 -
You have to prime those oil pumps as they are above the oil level in the pan.
One way is to put a piece-of-pipe in the pressure sender outlet, connect a length of clearline to it sized so it fits snug on the pipe, and fill it with oil.
Prop up the line holding the oil so it will gravity feed into the engine.
Rotate the engine backwards (by hand) to pull the oil into the pump gears.
This works best with oil already in the pan so it will flush some air out of the pick-up tube.
It's usually helpful to pull the spark plugs while doing this so you don't have to work against engine compression.
Once the pump is primed then you can reconnect the oil pressure sender and crank to see if it builds pressure.
Another way to do this is to pull the end of the oil pump if you can get to it, pack the pump gears with vasoline, and reassemble.
As long as the mechanical parts are good either way should work.
OMG, it's Steve from This Week With Cars! Amazing when two channels you love are somehow connected.
Kevin and mook i just wanted to say thank you for all that you two do! I love watching y'all's videos and encouraging people to do revival's. I just picked up my first f100 i get to tinker on and try semi restoring.
Hey that oil pump runs backwards so when you prime it with a drill make sure it's in reverse
If external oil pump bad diaphragm typical Buick olds problem
I Enjoyed the Video, growing up constantly rebuilding cars, trucks and Motorcycles going to technology school at 12 I have finally decided to help clean up and repair some of our heritage I do appreciate your time and feed. My one day you will get to see my 1956 Buick Century Riviera, it is coming along very strong, thanks again
Thank you for the time you put into making your videos. It's much appreciated.
I’m just here to say that this is by far one of the most informative automotive revival channels out there bro. Keep doing your thing and all the info in the comments is pretty cool too. Pretty sure all of us here watching wish we could do this for a living for fun like you man.
I love any Junkyard Digs video, especially when theres an Olds in it.
Wish I could reach back in time to shake the hand of whoever lovingly taped off that intake forseeing the cars fate
I'm 57 years old and I've never heard of the F 85. That is a cool looking ride.
Just got done doing some cleanup on my 01 ranger, bought the thing a week ago. This is a perfect way to relax after dealing with 106°F real feel in SW Florida
Perfect timing for Cleetus’ danger Ranger Race at the freedom factory
These engines are notorious for losing oil prime when dry from sitting or a fresh build you must prime the oil system with a pressure feed once you prime it it should be fine ask your local engine shop for the tank set up or check ebay there not that expensive
A Pump garden sprayer works as well that is what I use.
That is one unique and awesome looking car! That would be a serious keeper in my book.
Hey hows it going enjoy his videos all to
Mook is a serious keeper!
Agree.
I love the space age interior
I bought one new in '61. It was a 2-door tan coupe. Loved it. Only issues I remember between '61 and '68 were the steering gear that kept getting loose and the radiator that kept plugging up. The engine ran great. Wish I still had it, and the '68 VW bus we bought to replace the Olds. They'd probably be worth more now than what I paid for them new.
The only channel I refuse to skip past the advertisements on. Rock on y'all 🤘✌️
Right as I picked up dinner too-- Digs, you hero.
Legend
Nothin better than dinner and jyd
same
Same! Sitting at table with phone propped up.
A car I've been chasing my whole life, never been able to afford one. I love it.
I have never heard of a F85 and now I want one. Love the content.
The two door was really a nice looking little car.
The top of the line F-85 was the Cutlass. Later on they just dropped the F-85 name. It was kind of like when Pontiac had the T-37.
I had a 1970 cutlass sport that I swapped a 455 into I loved cutlasses and I’ve never heard of this car but damn it’s nice I would love to get the turbo version it even came with methanol injection Olds was way ahead of the game
I like how the Decked system improves how you lock up the stuff in the back. You know, things that come standard in, say, a van. 😉
Mook, pup and a classic Olds! Life does not get any better!
I love when JYD shows a car being washed and it's not even halfway through the video
Pack the oil pump full of Vaseline and fill the oil filter. Prime it slow until it starts to build pressure. Hopefully the bearings are not smoked.
You may have run that engine just long enough with zero oil pressure, to have spun the bearings. This happened to me, when the machine shop did'nt align the holes in the main bearings with the holes in the crank saddles.
This could work. Since the pan will be down, the bearings can be checked.
If there is damage it wasn’t from you. All new seals in the trunk… carb no seal… electric not complete… he blew it.
I suggest priming it. Shootin' at the hip here but It's possible they failed to put the gasket on the oil pump or maybe the pump is just hecked! 😂
So many of those older cars just had character. This one is worth restoring.
I've got one of these engines in my 1971 Rover P6. Awesome engine and very tolerant so hopefully you've not done too much damage. As everyone has said you need to pack the pump with Vaseline to get it to prime.
Fun fact: squishing a tube doesnt affect flow much until its almost smashed shut... Also I think thats the first time ive seen you bust out a fancy points file!
He said on his last video (I think it was the last one anyway) that somebody sent him a points file, but he forgot to bring it with him.
Reminds me of the 1961 Pontiac Tempest from my childhood. I could see fixing it up, it was from a time where the styling was pretty cool.
CAN'T WAIT TO SEE MORE VIDEOS ABOUT THIS CAR!!! THANKS FOR THE GREAT CONTENT JYD!!!
It's not about aerodynamics when you're towing, its the weight on the pin. If you load with the trailer heavier at the back than the front it'll pivot over the wheels and you'll get negative pin weight which unloads the rear of the towing vehicle and leads to a very pucker friendly ride home.
I had a 1964 Olds F-85 "three on the tree" manual with a 330 cu in high compression single 4 pumper Carter that drank high test fuel in quantity. It came from the factory special order exactly as described and I was second owner. It was a "sleeper", no external chrome except the Olds 330 Rocket emblem on the front of the cowl each side. It was fun to blow off Corvets at the light because it was a four door family body that they didn't expect. I had to sell it because it was eating me out of house and home for thel and those bias ply tires that never lasted long compared to today's steel belted tires. BUT, it was sure a fun car in the 70's!
Guess now I should pull my '64 2 door F85 out and get it going.
hey man I have a 64' olds 98 I live in India and its the only one in my county so no parts for it here. you know of any good websites where I can get parts for it?
@@robindas8708 I'm afraid not. The only 64 I've ever seen was mine.
Same with my '66 Holiday Coupe. I miss driving it.
My first car in HS was a '64 F85 wagon handed down from my sister. 330 V8 with 2-speed Jetaway trans. Tough old booger the ac even worked.
Not everything goes well guys. You could try priming the oil pump. Remove it and pack it with vaseline or something similar. Spin it with the drill until you get pressure.
With some tlc, upgrades on the Trans crossmember, exhaust. Etc. That thing would be a blast
I had one of these! Got it in 1977 from an older couple who bought it off the showroom floor when it was new. Same year and color as yours, but a 2-door, with matching color interior and bucket seats. It was an awesome car, and I learned about the aluminum V-8's from digging up information about it (if you own it, you need to know it). JC Whitney is your friend when it comes to this car, (and lots of others) the starter is rebuildable by John Q Public.....back when they made things that the owner could actually work on. Awesome :D
For all of you who wrote in that a certain brand of car used this type of pump, there were many different brands that used this type of oil pump on their engines. Ford, Dodge ,Buick/Olds/Pontiac, Jeep, International, and many others ,including AMC. External oil pumps kept you from having to remove an oil pan to access the pump. P.S. Kevin, not only is that aluminum V-8 engine unique to Buick/Pontiac/Olds, those cars also had the transmission in the trunk. The th350 conversion included installing a differential to replace the Powerglide/Jetaway transaxle.
39:00 you guys are awesome! We appreciate all the f***ing good content. Seriously. shooting, editing, on top of actually working on cars. You deserve every bit of your success. And making your hobby into a cool profession. much love.
Excited about the new vid just started it! You guys were the reason I went to get my first truck back a few months ago!
I've been benge watching yours and Mooks videos for like a month every night.
The things you do for our entertainment. We appreciate the content Kevin.
I bought the same car and even the same color back in 1971 for $300 in excellent condition, I drove for 3 years, sold it to my sister, it was a great running car!
That oil pump may have just lost its prime. You can try to pack it with Vaseline and put it back together.
"Help me Angus, Your'e my only hope."
I've had luck by just loosening the oil filter and cranking it. Might even try hooking up a shop vac to the oil filter housing to suck up some oil.
I need a Mook in my life, just a friend who gets as excited as me about the things I like.
As a Brit with a little experience on the Rover derivative of this engine, I agree with everyone else who's saying that the oil pump needs priming, preferably by packing it with Vaseline. Hopefully the rest of the engine is good.
Cool to see that Aceca, shame it's missing the original BMW-derived Bristol I6 motor though, those things are brilliant.
40:31 rip that FRAM off, throw a couple quarts back in the pan, spin the pump with the drill, and see what it does. Also be worth cutting the FRAM open to see if it has let go of chunks of paper element to plug up oil galleries with.
After seeing how crummy those orange frams are I wouldn’t even try to start an old engine with it. Put a new filter on it before the first crank.
Spot on
As soon as I saw that orange
F ucking
R uined
A nother
M otor
I knew there were potential issues.
@@ImTheJoker4u FRAM Bombs, I call them. They're great for setting out on cinder blocks at the rifle range(Fill 'em with colored water for good effect!) but I'd never use them on an engine.
Friend of mine in HS bought a '67 Mustang that'd been somewhat hotrodded. 351w in it, bit of a cam, high-stall converter on a C6, that sorta stuff. He complained to me that the oil pressure was super low...5-6 pounds at idle and never more than about 30 pounds, alongside a LOT of valve tick. I took one look at the filter, told him to go get a Motorcraft, Purolator, or Wix oil filter, 7qts 10w30, and we'll change on the oil.
Whaddayaknow it suddenly found 25 more pounds of oil pressure! And the valves stopped clattering!
@@stevemiller6766 I cringe when I see one on a classic car. Like c'mon dude do even half a second's googling and you'll see FRAMs suck.
I buy Motorcraft FL-1A's. Fits the two 300cid I6s I own and it's just a rebadged Purolator. Wix, also really good shit.
FRAM The orange can of death
In the rover / Buick v8 the oil pump needs to be primed first by packing it with vaseline or something similar great content guys 😀
Looking at those wheels, that screams 90's.
We all hope you keep this one for a while, we want to see you drive it! This is actually incredible because I just bought a 61 F 85 a month ago and it's sitting in my garage right now, although everything is meant on mine but my engine is seized, he seems to have the other way around, solid engine, but that frame and interior looks like it's going
Please ! More MOOK & Kevin Team Work Videos ! Kevin Thank you for Serving !
I think that's such a beautiful car, there's just something about it.
Me too. I'm from England and know next to nothing about US cars but that one has style. Needs to be reborn.
I agree. The similarity of the hood and trunk reminds me of my 85 caprice
Bring back Angus!!! Lol, thank you guys as always for the awesome content and inspiration! Excited to see ya on Power Tour! 🤘🤘🤘
Bad oil pump my brother had the same issue on his old 67 F85 it wasn't moving any oil just like that one.
That oil pump may have just lost its prime. You can try to pack it with Vaseline and put it back together.
A 67 should have had a real olds 330 v8 not the buick one.
HI I had a couple of these, one Buick and one Olds, the reasons that they ended up in the junk yard were the cams were never broken in at the dealer so they would lose there lobes (a big problem for GM into the '80s), the front end joints were very undersized and would wear out at
Love the car even if it's a four door. That's back when cars had real metal and body lines.
Even if it's a four door.. come on Its like a having four arms. IT'S different, visual off putting but very useful 👌
May be surprising, but cars are actually still made out of elements that are considered metal. So cars continue to be made of real metal!
@@ajorsomething4935 sure they are still made of metal. But not like the THICK medal they use to use. The shit they use today will bend if you look at it hard.
@@stevencartlidge6574 if that's the case you may be a metal bender and not know it.
I want to daily it so bad
That is a heck of a find. Your on a roll 🤘
That Marcos next to the AC is awesome! Don’t see many of them!
Sometimes the "fails" are just as fun - and informative. Learned something new about these old BOP engines
Thank you Mook and Kevin, watch the content all the time. Keep the videos coming, I sure appreciate tuem!
Rover in the UK bought the tooling/rights from GM for this engine. It was used in Rover cars and the Range Rover/various Land Rovers from 1970 til the early 2000s or thereabouts.
Edit: you already knew this. Hey, I might have a starter off my old Discovery you can have.
Totally. My dad has an original MG BGT V8 from 1975. Same engine as in this I think, buick 1950s block with MG's own twist on it. Range Rover in the 70s used the same I think.
I see a FRAM Bomb on the side of that engine which doesn't bode well for oil pressure.
Yeah he was kind of f*cked right from the beginning
I APPRECIATE everything you do. I love the content.
Win lose or draw, it’s all good content! We love it!
Little late to the party since im on vacation. But I really cant wait for a part 2 of this car. You guys are killing it keep up the top notch quality content.
Talk to the guys at the restored TH-cam channel. They have an in with maxed trailers
Nah, if we wanted to see a "Kevin Gets Run Over" video, we'd just give Mook the keys and a six pack 😁
Yeah as long as there’s no hospital time I am in
Wow after that car wash and the soap and rinse she looks amazing while wet... it's going to look amazing with some Shine Juice like Derek from vicegripgarage would say love that dark red color that Olds Has.. Sweet ride Kevin @16:15 @Junkyard Digs
Or some of Puddin's Patina Sauce.
Yes! I had a 1961 F85 in High School in 1965. Paid $900 for it at a used car dealer. It was a POJ actually. Even more so after I accidentally left the radiator cap off and it blew all the water out of the radiator, over heated and either burned a valve or blew a head gasket. I just junked it after that.
I'm really glad you bring these cars back to life .
Jack up the front of your trailer a bit leaving it hooked up and it’ll lower the rear at the ramps and make it more level
Or bring ramps and back the truck onto them.
I would if the jack wasn't broke 😂