It is Easter weekend and Maytag oven bails because it does not want to work this weekend! This quick fix solved the problem. The actual part needed is no longer available so this was the great solution. My wife was a little bummed ☹️, as she was looking forward to new unit. Thanks for this video, saved me for now. Gas stoves/ovens like my wife wants cost several thousand dollars 💵 and not quite ready to purchase. Thank You!!
Thank you so much for making this video! They no longer make the parts I need and this saved my oven!!! My oven is built much better than anything that is available today, so i dreaded the thought of getting a new one. Thanks again!!!!
It’s the day before Christmas Eve and I got this error code. Thank you SO MUCH for taking the time to do this! 👍👍👍👍👍 You saved our turkey! Happy Holidays!!
3 thumbs up from me dad and husband our oven has been stuck in f9 for a month found this Very Helpful Awesome Video and our Jenn Air oven is now Fully Functioning Thank You So Much
Thank you so much for your video, it worked perfectly after discovering they dont make the replacement part anymore. Me and my 11 year old had a blast figuring it out and being succesful.
I have a wall mounted kenmore oven model# 790.40523402 from 2007 This trick worked! BUT! the motor switch for our door lock was labeled NC NO and Common (pretty sure it was called common, it was obviously ground, on the opposite side of the other two wires) Initially I jumped the ground to the NO labeled wire, assuming the O stood for "Open". Didn't work, so I tried jumping to the NC wire, and that worked!!! I had to cut off female quick disconnects, then i stripped the wire a little and used a 2 wire Wago lever connector. It's all done and all good, I just made french fries to celebrate 🎉 Thank you.
Edit: I reconnected the NO quick disconnect (had to crimp a new one on) back to the switch just so that if one day I want to repair the self-clean function, I'll know where the wires go. Also, in our case, lube wouldnt have fixed it. The plastic fitting that couples the lock motor to the lock rod had lost its internal "D" shape, so the motor's D-shaped output shaft could no longer rotate the rod, it just spun in the plastic coupling. So yeah! This was the go-to fix to avoid hunting down that plastic fitting on the internet and waiting forever for it to arrive (if I ever found a supplier).
Man, thank you so much for this! I tried everything else resetting this punching this button doing this doing that bullshit so I run across your video and it works perfect. I'm not a big fan of safety crap anyway lol
With circuit off and oven unplugged. I sprayed oven cleaner in the latch area. Let it sit for 10mins. I tapped my door latch lightly with a hammer to close and open the latch 3x. Fixed my problem. Not sure it will fix everyone’s issue but thought I’d share.
Dominic-Your comment was a lifesaver! I thought I needed to replace the part but I found your comment and decided to try your fix first! Totally worked... which is a huge lifesaver because it's Thanksgiving week and NOBODY has the part I need!
Exactly what I intended to do, even before seeing this helpful video. I will add one suggestion for those who take the time to do this. Remove at least one wire from the Locking Mechanism Motor, and insulate it (electrical tape). Do this in addition to making the "jumper connection" with the Position Switch "Common and Unlock" sensing wires, as the video shows. Why remove a power wire from the motor? Because the Control Panel will activate the motor if anyone "accidently" tells the oven to Self-Clean. This would be a problem, because the motor would recieve power until the Control Panel "senses" that the Door is Locked (the mechanism has reached the limit of travel, and depressed the micro-switch to indicate "Locked".) ... If the wires are disconnected from the micro-switch, the signal will never occur, and the computer may power the motor until the cows come home. Disconnecting power from the motor eliminates the chance of the motor burning up, if Grandma decides to engage the Self-Clean feature while you are slurping margaritas in the Bahamas.
what if my stove is a different set up than the jen air? my motor locking mechanism is in the back. i got 2 wires on locking mechanism and 2 wires on the motor. which ones to i tape together ???? please help thanksgiving is in 2 days!!
@@timwren80 at the locking mechanism, try the oven with both wires off and then with the wires shorted together to see which works. The motor wire just ensures the oven never decided to lock itself.
@@unoefxz my wires that he's shorting together are joined to plug in at one plug. Should I cut off the end, wrap the wires together, and tape it? I don't want to do that till I know for sure it will work. I can see where they're labeled "com"
@@lillygrace4471 not sure what you mean, but if it is a plastic male and female molex type plug, just strip a short piece of electrical wire bent in a U shape to jump between them.
i have a Frigidaire Gallery oven that's locked in F9 error..i accidentally hit the clean button, now i can't get the F9 error code off and can no longer use the oven..after checking further, it looks like the motor that controls the door latch lock is seized and not working, which i believe is what caused the F9 error..mine has 1 red wire and 2 white wires that go directly to the motor..any idea how i can bypass this until i can get a new motor? the 2 white wires go to the same terminal and the red wire goes to a different terminal on the motor?
CITYOF JESSE 2 years ago Don’t sit here and take your over apart: see if this works! 1. The door was locked shooting off that error F90 & some dr_00 2. I let it cool down didn’t fuss with it. 3. I hit the “Timer on/off” button and held it for a couple seconds (just for the hell of it.) and then I hit the OFF/hold button.
THANK YOU! I was attempting to broil and all of sudden the stupid code of death appeared " F-9 "code came on and now stupid oven won't work. I hope I can try your tips and have it work. Actually not me my husband..stupid program, stupid oven. Stupid stupid.
I own a general electric range, that has locked up because of an interrupted clean cycle. I have error F3, and locked door error. From what I read, locked door error is equivalent to F9. Now I have to figure out which chords I can join together. There are two wires on my unlock switch, one is orange and the other one is yellow. There are two wires attached to my lock motor, one is Grey, and the other one is red. I have two wires attached to my lock switch. One is yellow (which is joined to the yellow one on the unlock switch), and the other one is blue. So out of 6 wires or chords which ones do i join to bypass this stupid locked door/F9/FC error code? I was told that you can only join NC (normally closed) wires only, but which ones would that be. Would the red on the motor be the NC wire, and what you refer to as the common wire. If so then I guess i join this red lock motor wire together with one of the unlock switch wires, either the orange or yellow one ( THanks!
@@DreamLabQuest don't have that oven anymore, but I'd take it apart as he instructs and try the bypass wiring technique or remove the lock altogether. Unplug first as always..
I have a Kenmore so the wires on the motor for the lock are orange then two gray wires which are combined and plugged into the common spot how do I bypass that..?
Friendly advice: the camera is way to shaky to pay attention to the video. You zoom in too close and for too long on things. Very informative but painful to watch.
The only problem with this bypass is that the motor is going to activate if you put it into self clean mode and run the motor until the switch says the motor cam is in position, throwing it into error after a certain amount of time with the latch stuck.
It is Easter weekend and Maytag oven bails because it does not want to work this weekend! This quick fix solved the problem. The actual part needed is no longer available so this was the great solution. My wife was a little bummed ☹️, as she was looking forward to new unit. Thanks for this video, saved me for now. Gas stoves/ovens like my wife wants cost several thousand dollars 💵 and not quite ready to purchase. Thank You!!
You just taught me how to hot wire my oven. Thanks goodness! Thats all I can afford for repairs is electrical tape I found in a parking lot. 😂
Thank you so much for making this video! They no longer make the parts I need and this saved my oven!!! My oven is built much better than anything that is available today, so i dreaded the thought of getting a new one. Thanks again!!!!
It’s the day before Christmas Eve and I got this error code. Thank you SO MUCH for taking the time to do this! 👍👍👍👍👍
You saved our turkey! Happy Holidays!!
Thank you so much homie. Parts are no longer available and it saved me 200$ to have a repair guy do what I just did for free!!!! 🙏
Just found that thing on my grandma's oven, unplug it and now it's working like a charm. Thank you my guy.
3 thumbs up from me dad and husband our oven has been stuck in f9 for a month found this Very Helpful Awesome Video and our Jenn Air oven is now Fully Functioning Thank You So Much
Thank you so much for your video, it worked perfectly after discovering they dont make the replacement part anymore. Me and my 11 year old had a blast figuring it out and being succesful.
You are amazing 👏 ❤️.
3....different Maytag repairmen failed me. You saved me from buying new unit.!! My hero!
LOL, "maybe I do need that self-cleaning mode." Thanks for the repair vid since repair parts are no longer available for mine...
I have a wall mounted kenmore oven model# 790.40523402 from 2007
This trick worked! BUT! the motor switch for our door lock was labeled NC NO and Common (pretty sure it was called common, it was obviously ground, on the opposite side of the other two wires)
Initially I jumped the ground to the NO labeled wire, assuming the O stood for "Open".
Didn't work, so I tried jumping to the NC wire, and that worked!!!
I had to cut off female quick disconnects, then i stripped the wire a little and used a 2 wire Wago lever connector. It's all done and all good, I just made french fries to celebrate 🎉
Thank you.
Edit: I reconnected the NO quick disconnect (had to crimp a new one on) back to the switch just so that if one day I want to repair the self-clean function, I'll know where the wires go.
Also, in our case, lube wouldnt have fixed it. The plastic fitting that couples the lock motor to the lock rod had lost its internal "D" shape, so the motor's D-shaped output shaft could no longer rotate the rod, it just spun in the plastic coupling.
So yeah! This was the go-to fix to avoid hunting down that plastic fitting on the internet and waiting forever for it to arrive (if I ever found a supplier).
Man, thank you so much for this! I tried everything else resetting this punching this button doing this doing that bullshit so I run across your video and it works perfect. I'm not a big fan of safety crap anyway lol
Mine turned out to be wire positioning.
Perfect timing on the vid! Good job having it up!
WWG1WGA!!!
With circuit off and oven unplugged. I sprayed oven cleaner in the latch area. Let it sit for 10mins. I tapped my door latch lightly with a hammer to close and open the latch 3x. Fixed my problem.
Not sure it will fix everyone’s issue but thought I’d share.
Dominic-Your comment was a lifesaver! I thought I needed to replace the part but I found your comment and decided to try your fix first! Totally worked... which is a huge lifesaver because it's Thanksgiving week and NOBODY has the part I need!
This is Definitely Not dumb. Thank You! You just saved me $500!!! 👍👏🏼🥰🌻 God bless you!
I just disconnected my door lock wires and it started working thx for the vid
Exactly what I intended to do, even before seeing this helpful video.
I will add one suggestion for those who take the time to do this.
Remove at least one wire from the Locking Mechanism Motor, and insulate it (electrical tape).
Do this in addition to making the "jumper connection" with the Position Switch "Common and Unlock" sensing wires, as the video shows.
Why remove a power wire from the motor?
Because the Control Panel will activate the motor if anyone "accidently" tells the oven to Self-Clean. This would be a problem, because the motor would recieve power until the Control Panel "senses" that the Door is Locked (the mechanism has reached the limit of travel, and depressed the micro-switch to indicate "Locked".)
... If the wires are disconnected from the micro-switch, the signal will never occur, and the computer may power the motor until the cows come home.
Disconnecting power from the motor eliminates the chance of the motor burning up, if Grandma decides to engage the Self-Clean feature while you are slurping margaritas in the Bahamas.
what if my stove is a different set up than the jen air? my motor locking mechanism is in the back. i got 2 wires on locking mechanism and 2 wires on the motor. which ones to i tape together ???? please help thanksgiving is in 2 days!!
@@timwren80 at the locking mechanism, try the oven with both wires off and then with the wires shorted together to see which works. The motor wire just ensures the oven never decided to lock itself.
@@unoefxz my wires that he's shorting together are joined to plug in at one plug. Should I cut off the end, wrap the wires together, and tape it? I don't want to do that till I know for sure it will work. I can see where they're labeled "com"
@@lillygrace4471 not sure what you mean, but if it is a plastic male and female molex type plug, just strip a short piece of electrical wire bent in a U shape to jump between them.
also, "com" means common or essentially ground
i have a Frigidaire Gallery oven that's locked in F9 error..i accidentally hit the clean button, now i can't get the F9 error code off and
can no longer use the oven..after checking further, it looks like the motor that controls the door latch lock is seized and not working,
which i believe is what caused the F9 error..mine has 1 red wire and 2 white wires that go directly to the motor..any idea how i can
bypass this until i can get a new motor? the 2 white wires go to the same terminal and the red wire goes to a different terminal on
the motor?
Great fix, easy to do and probably saved me $500. You're a hero.
used this today to fix a maytag gemini thank u
What if you can't connect those two wires? Mine dont appear to be in a position to connect them. Should I tape all three separately?
I did something similar to bypass a broken lid switch on a top loading washer.
Thanks for sharing.
Gets a lot hotter than 500 degrees.
Thanks for the video! How do you determine which one is the common terminal on my GE door lock motor. Please see more explanation below. Thanks!
Is F9 equivalent to Locked door error on a General electric stove like what i have since my self clean cycle crapped out on me.
CITYOF JESSE
2 years ago
Don’t sit here and take your over apart: see if this works!
1. The door was locked shooting off that error F90 & some dr_00
2. I let it cool down didn’t fuss with it.
3. I hit the “Timer on/off” button and held it for a couple seconds (just for the hell of it.) and then I hit the OFF/hold button.
What should I replace to fix not bypass?
Thank you very much saved the day!!
THANK YOU! I was attempting to broil and all of sudden the stupid code of death appeared " F-9 "code came on and now stupid oven won't work. I hope I can try your tips and have it work. Actually not me my husband..stupid program, stupid oven. Stupid stupid.
I own a general electric range, that has locked up because of an interrupted clean cycle. I have error F3, and locked door error. From what I read, locked door error is equivalent to F9. Now I have to figure out which chords I can join together. There are two wires on my unlock switch, one is orange and the other one is yellow. There are two wires attached to my lock motor, one is Grey, and the other one is red. I have two wires attached to my lock switch. One is yellow (which is joined to the yellow one on the unlock switch), and the other one is blue. So out of 6 wires or chords which ones do i join to bypass this stupid locked door/F9/FC error code? I was told that you can only join NC (normally closed) wires only, but which ones would that be. Would the red on the motor be the NC wire, and what you refer to as the common wire. If so then I guess i join this red lock motor wire together with one of the unlock switch wires, either the orange or yellow one ( THanks!
Thank you for the video now I'm gonna save a lot of money and replace it when I'm ready...... Great video
Thanks for this. Wish me luck.
Very Helpful, I don't have a Jennair but figured it out for my Frigidaire from this very helpful video.
can you provide any help on that? I also have a Frigidaire and cant use my oven right now because of the code.
@@DreamLabQuest don't have that oven anymore, but I'd take it apart as he instructs and try the bypass wiring technique or remove the lock altogether. Unplug first as always..
@@DreamLabQuest th-cam.com/video/UylZKwzAPow/w-d-xo.html
Excellent fix, older wall unit, I'm already self cleaner
But how did you release the door to access the screws to remove to stove top?
My problem exactly I can’t even pry it open
@@bestgreenhomestead I was able to slide a wire hanger in and catch the latch to open it. (Different model oven, but probably similar)
This is the only workaround that worked. Thank you.
thank u so much bro 🙏
Very helpful, thanks .
I have a Kenmore so the wires on the motor for the lock are orange then two gray wires which are combined and plugged into the common spot how do I bypass that..?
Hi, i have a kenmore as well, with the same issue. What did you end up doing?
Any answer on the Kenmore?
Self clean is 800-900°F
Thank you , works for my GE door motor
Awesome video worked thank you so much
Awesome keep posting
Like given as requested. Awesome bypass.
Thank you so much very helpful and appreciated
I legit just plugged it out for like 10 sec then plugged it back in. My power just shutdown bc of a power outage and it was F9
Hell yea! Thank you!!!!!!
Bypass did not work, what next?
Friendly advice: the camera is way to shaky to pay attention to the video. You zoom in too close and for too long on things. Very informative but painful to watch.
Just did this. WORKS!!!!!!!
I think you could have left the common where it was and just switched the other two around. Tomato to mato
Agreed
Worked on my maytag. Thanks.
Or you could just switch the red wires...
Thanks for the tip, you are a puto héroe 😂👍
Tf lol
The only problem with this bypass is that the motor is going to activate if you put it into self clean mode and run the motor until the switch says the motor cam is in position, throwing it into error after a certain amount of time with the latch stuck.
Thanx for the tip. I'll try it, but "you talk too much"-(Thor to Thanos)-just saying
Thank you
Or just yank the speaker out... problem solved