Hello from Australia. Your front brake lines are not attaching to the brake callipers properly because they are on the wrong side. You need to switch them left to right. It’s easy to notice as the bleeding screw should always be on the top so air can escape once open. Hope this helps. I also noticed the front brake calliper slides were hard for you to turn. You should grease them up so they move freely, otherwise your brakes will not operate correctly.
Holy crap :O That's a solid point about bleeders and me messing up everything! That's why I love my comment section. I can rely on you guys. Thanks for this info. I will switch sides later today. About the sliders, I greased them up twice, but that was the first turn and after it started working normally. I knew about that moment, still thanks for mentioning! P.s. Australia, visiting your country is a dream! I really appreciate you leaving a comment! Big thanks for that!
Small observation. 7:22 a hub seel I saw does not look perfect (round shape, has a small deformation) shape. That's why probably you have a lot od grease comming from hub and blending with sand. It should not look like that. Change the seal (only OEM, Koyo or NSK - comming with hub bearings), this is the right moment when you have a perfect access to this, better do that now than after car will be assambled.
Mate, You've obviously twigged that your front discs are on the right way round - otherwise they'd be sticking out from your hub ;-) . Chris Saunders has already answered you ref brake calipers and brake lines. Lines should indeed fit with that lug in the notch, not the pipe. Ref auto hubs, depends on what you are planning with your truck when finished.... There are some aftermarket VM locking hubs. On reviews they are 'OK'' but not that strong. On my later Y60 it has manual locking front hubs (a bolt to turn them from auto to manual). Those are stronger. you can probably find them at a breakers. Lastly, you've forgotten brake shims on all 4 corners. There are shim kits available. If you don't fit them, you'll have squeaking and clunking..... Good luck!! I'm waiting for when you fit the body to the chassis, coz my securing brackets are rusted :-( I am needing to see how you weld them up 'on the car'... or create a pattern for new ones...
I don't do my own welding. But can you please elaborate on your rusted part if possible send some pics? My email is same as channel with @gmail.com I'm interested and want to help. Maybe I can figure something out bit earlier then video time. And also thanks for noticing about those shims. I was thinking about them, because when I took brakes off it had them and I couldn't figure out do I need them or not. Since I didn't get them with calipers and such then I forgot about there existence :D p.s. still embarrassed about putting brake calipers the other way around :D F my life :D youtuber teaching people total BS :D Thank got for comments so people can see what is correct and what not :)
Hello! I don't have rear brake on mine, but I second on the brake pad shims for the front. Without them the pads rattle a lot. I didn't had one and a replacement was stupidly expensive for what it was so I ended up gluing pads to caliper with PU based gasget type adesive.
@@cidadaodorense3231 hmm, in the UK £9.00 for the 4 front shims... bit.ly/3guxvpj. Not saying these are the exact ones for your truck, but don't seem that expensive.
What's wrong with your OEM automatic hubs? Are they broke? Who told you Martin that stock hubs are shi.. They are much better than AVM or any kind off after market ones. Keep them, If they are broke - rebuild them with original parts. If you don't plan any extreme off roading keep them they will manage. My friend drives with them on his overloaded GU with 35 inch Cooper MT tires to Ucraine, working perfectly . If you want to throw them out than I can buy them from you :). In Poland for used automatic OEM for GU you can get 150 EUR - more than you have to psy for brand new AVM.
Holy, 150. I think I bought my second set of automatic for 50 :D But well noted, I kind of like the automatic ones, because I don't need to pay extra attention to them. But rebuilding is definitely a option. One on right side is on, the left one made all kind of noise. But now that you encouraged me to keep them I will definitely do that :)
Can't do that unfortunately. Here where I live, I wouldn't be able to pass technical inspection and get papers to drive on the road if I don't have them :( But like you said, they have a loooots of mud collected on them, that one I found out smacking them with no brake discs :)
Only issue is Me :) But in reality I'm finishing up one part of last frame works (axles). On Monday I need to get my self one screw for brake calipers and then I'm set in that department. Bearings are adjusted so I can start wrapping up tubes and wires, and start boring out broken screws from engine, for exhaust manifold. But yeah, only limitation is me... Sadly...
@@pawetruszczynski1435 Just ordered new timing belt and oil. Yesterday took off turbine again and today will try to get 3 broken screws out. Next week I have a vacation so hopefully I will have everything in place to put the body on before snow hits. I need to do that this year, because after body is up, I believe I will send it straight to welding. About paint I'm not sure how to do that properly. Should I go for normal paint or try to do one of those Matt ones. Normal paint looks better in my opinion.
@@thecrazylatvian Well I painted my car by Cobra from Novoll - it's like Raptor - poliurethame. Would never do this again. Today I would go with normal stock car paint. Poliurethane generates more trouble than brings benefit. My frame painted by poliurethane after a 1,5 year starts to rust- car staus more time in garage than I drive it. And thisnis much worse because rust "grow" under poliurethane. Its like bacteria. You dont see anything when finally "boom" explodes outside and when this happen its to late. Of course someone may say that there was a mistake done durring painting bla bla bla but I know reasons which we can discuss off youtube :)
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Hello from Australia. Your front brake lines are not attaching to the brake callipers properly because they are on the wrong side. You need to switch them left to right. It’s easy to notice as the bleeding screw should always be on the top so air can escape once open. Hope this helps. I also noticed the front brake calliper slides were hard for you to turn. You should grease them up so they move freely, otherwise your brakes will not operate correctly.
Holy crap :O That's a solid point about bleeders and me messing up everything! That's why I love my comment section. I can rely on you guys. Thanks for this info. I will switch sides later today. About the sliders, I greased them up twice, but that was the first turn and after it started working normally. I knew about that moment, still thanks for mentioning!
P.s.
Australia, visiting your country is a dream! I really appreciate you leaving a comment! Big thanks for that!
Done, today I switched sides and like you said, now everything is attaching like butter! Thanks for noticing!
Small observation. 7:22 a hub seel I saw does not look perfect (round shape, has a small deformation) shape. That's why probably you have a lot od grease comming from hub and blending with sand. It should not look like that. Change the seal (only OEM, Koyo or NSK - comming with hub bearings), this is the right moment when you have a perfect access to this, better do that now than after car will be assambled.
I sent you a mail 😅
Mate, You've obviously twigged that your front discs are on the right way round - otherwise they'd be sticking out from your hub ;-) . Chris Saunders has already answered you ref brake calipers and brake lines. Lines should indeed fit with that lug in the notch, not the pipe. Ref auto hubs, depends on what you are planning with your truck when finished.... There are some aftermarket VM locking hubs. On reviews they are 'OK'' but not that strong. On my later Y60 it has manual locking front hubs (a bolt to turn them from auto to manual). Those are stronger. you can probably find them at a breakers. Lastly, you've forgotten brake shims on all 4 corners. There are shim kits available. If you don't fit them, you'll have squeaking and clunking..... Good luck!! I'm waiting for when you fit the body to the chassis, coz my securing brackets are rusted :-( I am needing to see how you weld them up 'on the car'... or create a pattern for new ones...
I don't do my own welding. But can you please elaborate on your rusted part if possible send some pics? My email is same as channel with @gmail.com I'm interested and want to help. Maybe I can figure something out bit earlier then video time. And also thanks for noticing about those shims. I was thinking about them, because when I took brakes off it had them and I couldn't figure out do I need them or not. Since I didn't get them with calipers and such then I forgot about there existence :D
p.s.
still embarrassed about putting brake calipers the other way around :D F my life :D youtuber teaching people total BS :D Thank got for comments so people can see what is correct and what not :)
Done, today I switched sides and like you said, now everything is attaching like butter! Thanks for noticing!
Hello! I don't have rear brake on mine, but I second on the brake pad shims for the front. Without them the pads rattle a lot. I didn't had one and a replacement was stupidly expensive for what it was so I ended up gluing pads to caliper with PU based gasget type adesive.
@@cidadaodorense3231 hmm, in the UK £9.00 for the 4 front shims... bit.ly/3guxvpj. Not saying these are the exact ones for your truck, but don't seem that expensive.
What's wrong with your OEM automatic hubs? Are they broke? Who told you Martin that stock hubs are shi.. They are much better than AVM or any kind off after market ones. Keep them, If they are broke - rebuild them with original parts. If you don't plan any extreme off roading keep them they will manage. My friend drives with them on his overloaded GU with 35 inch Cooper MT tires to Ucraine, working perfectly . If you want to throw them out than I can buy them from you :). In Poland for used automatic OEM for GU you can get 150 EUR - more than you have to psy for brand new AVM.
Holy, 150. I think I bought my second set of automatic for 50 :D But well noted, I kind of like the automatic ones, because I don't need to pay extra attention to them. But rebuilding is definitely a option. One on right side is on, the left one made all kind of noise. But now that you encouraged me to keep them I will definitely do that :)
@@thecrazylatvian People do extremm on simex tires with them th-cam.com/video/SxXwoEpetMc/w-d-xo.html - to inspire you :).
Remove and throw away backing plates as all they do is collect mud
Can't do that unfortunately. Here where I live, I wouldn't be able to pass technical inspection and get papers to drive on the road if I don't have them :( But like you said, they have a loooots of mud collected on them, that one I found out smacking them with no brake discs :)
Is there any issue with your project? I have not seen new videos since 2 months :).
Only issue is Me :) But in reality I'm finishing up one part of last frame works (axles). On Monday I need to get my self one screw for brake calipers and then I'm set in that department. Bearings are adjusted so I can start wrapping up tubes and wires, and start boring out broken screws from engine, for exhaust manifold. But yeah, only limitation is me... Sadly...
@@thecrazylatvian keep going. Im curious and its close to the end :)
@@pawetruszczynski1435 Just ordered new timing belt and oil. Yesterday took off turbine again and today will try to get 3 broken screws out. Next week I have a vacation so hopefully I will have everything in place to put the body on before snow hits. I need to do that this year, because after body is up, I believe I will send it straight to welding. About paint I'm not sure how to do that properly. Should I go for normal paint or try to do one of those Matt ones. Normal paint looks better in my opinion.
@@thecrazylatvian Well I painted my car by Cobra from Novoll - it's like Raptor - poliurethame. Would never do this again. Today I would go with normal stock car paint. Poliurethane generates more trouble than brings benefit. My frame painted by poliurethane after a 1,5 year starts to rust- car staus more time in garage than I drive it. And thisnis much worse because rust "grow" under poliurethane. Its like bacteria. You dont see anything when finally "boom" explodes outside and when this happen its to late. Of course someone may say that there was a mistake done durring painting bla bla bla but I know reasons which we can discuss off youtube :)