Another trick you can do is do a “dry” test and then follow up with a “wet” test by putting a few drops of oil in the cylinder. Just enough to get on the rings. Great way to tell if your rings are worn
If you're burning oil and one or more cylinders is reading significantly lower than normal, you can try adding a little engine oil to it and retesting. If compression goes up with some oil in the cylinder, it usually means that cylinder has poor ring seal - either from the rings/ringlands themselves or from the cylinder wall being worn. Sometimes you can try running a higher viscosity oil as a short term solution since the thicker oil will help with ring seal.
One of the best car how to's out there! Great content and everything is really good explained! Keep up the great work man! I'm watching all your vids with interest!
I enjoy your videos but you are always saying the wrong cylinder number on your mini. Cylinder 1 is the one closest to your timing chain and you keep calling that #4 but it is #1.
The tuber jumped back and forth between psi and compression ratio (really pressure measured in bar -multiples of atmospheric pressure) so 10:1 compression ratio is ~14.7 psi X 10 or 147 psi. which is what he got on the good ones. His procedure was off in that the number of compression strokes he cranked varied from 7 to 12 which might account for some of the variation. Should not need to charge the battery for that few revolutions with the plugs out.
That’s why you needed to make sure that when connecting the adapter, you do actually need to use some tools, or at the very least make sure it’s nice and tight. That way you don’t have the end of the adapter left in your cylinder!!
@@milanmastracci I know this thread is old, but quick question. I didnt see in responses, "Did the walnut blasting of the valve ports take care of or correct the "Check Engine Light" for Cylinder 4 Misfiring?" Thanks!
Really nice vid Milan, one of my top 3 best vids for info you have put out to date, thanks :-) can't wait to see the leak test and resolve vid now :-) keep em coming...
You'd think they'd thread the fittings on opposite so they'd tighten as you loosen the piece out of the engine. If it comes loose when tightening into the engine, at least nothing is going to be stuck in there. Haven't thought it through fully yet
It depends on how open the throttle body is and the position of the pistons. A problem is when 1 piston has more than 10% of variation compared with the other ones so ur car is fine.Compression kits are not so reliable btw. (Learnt from Eric the Car guy)
in your double clutch video you blipped the throttle when the clutch was disengaged, your supposed to do it with your clutch engaged with neutral, so essentially your synchros still did all the work matching the input shaft speed with the output shaft speed, thought i'd say it here says you felt the need to disable comments on the other video
I saw some people remove all the spark slugs before they do the test. I did not see you do that on this test. Does it make any different that you did not remove all the spark plugs first, then do the test on each cylinder?
Engine run with all 4 set enclosed. Testing individual pressure is trying to take each reading on all 4 piston at the same time. If you have 4 pressure gauges, you could installed all 4 to compare. Conclusion: All should be enclosed. Reason is usually the leak pressure have 4 main place to check as basic (exhaust, radiator water resevoir, engine oil inlet, engine oil dipstick)
Great Video: What is your assessment of these compression tests? Looks like cyl 4:=8-1, cyl 3:=11-1, cyl 2 := 10-1, cyl 1:= 8-1...? And what is next step to resolve? -jake
Like this. Quick question. I'm new to this and had no idea about doing a wet test. I did do a compression check and found that my #1 cylinder was reading low (125 psi vs 150 psi on the others). I then went an put the parts back together when I discovered that I should have done the wet down test. Can I do a wet down test on just one cylinder without taking apart the others?
I don't know if it's a Canadian thing, but here in the UK, the cylinder on the left (nearest the timing gear) is referred to as cylinder 1, not cylinder 4 as you said.
milanmastracci I like your videos man, good job. I'm also an R56 owner. The others are correct though, cylinder 1 is closest to the timing, far left as viewed from the front.
Thanks bro :D, i have golf 4 1.4 16v, and it's very dirty inside in the engine bay, and i saw your video, now i will go to clean it xD Keep making videos, you and your brother are the best :)
it’s should be totally open to get a most accurate reading , however its not affect the compression it self to determine if there is any compression leak
Disabling the fuel system is not essential (only a small percentage of people actually do it). It is often a good idea to hook up a battery charger if you have one. A trickle charger to top up the battery before hand. Or a battery maintainer that can supply 30A at minimum.
Hello milan, I've watched your videos, you're great, keep up the good work. I have a question for you and I hope you can answer me. :D Before I put the question let me tell you what's happing. I've buyed a new car almost 9 months ago, it's a DACIA LOGAN II (Renault LOGAN II) with 1.2 liters engine, I've put almost all the time the best petrol from a single gas station from my city (I've put very often 98 petrol from ROMPETROL and a few times 95 petrol). In the morning or night, at first start, when I crank the engine, he doesn't want to start from the first, it's scary because this winter started OK at minus 15-20 degrees and now when the engine starts after a few cranks, the rpm jumps to 1000-1200 rpm for a few seconds. I think this is not normal because before this it started OK. What do you think the problem can be? The spark plugs or other stuff ?
milanmastracci my grandfathers leather on his door panels are pealing off and i was curious about how to reaply it without stitching. do you have any ideas?
To keep the adapter piece from sticking, wouldn't "reverse threads" on it and the hose prevent this? Just a thought...what if the thread-lock didn't work??
Are you sure that the first cylinder you tested is number 4? As far as I know, the cylinder that is closest to the timing, is always number 1. And as I'm concerned, your timing is on the left too. Just wanted for you to know, and not make further mistakes :)
125k km and compression is already going. My car is 15 years old with 300k km on it and all my compression values are within 10% of each other. When is that walnut blast coming?
I've done a bit of research, and I'm kind of relieved as to what the problem is. So I know there is a problem with my head, but it is a relatively simple fix :) I'll 100% make a video about it
11 to 1 is incorrect and called static compression. No way a gauge will ever tel you that. Its the PSI reading you meant to say - ie 150, 180 etc.. thanks anyway tho- yes VERY important to REALLY tighten the m12 adapter to the tool so it does not get stuck down in the hole! or use a dedicated m12 extension~
Gedas alekveravičius Not showing his face is his signature trademark. Also we know what he looks like in past vids. I equally like both channel but prefer Chris's, because he does a fantastic job at editing his videos.
Yes I thought that he doesn't know what he is doing shouldn't really be doing how to videos under those circumstances, a little knowledge is a dangerous thing!
Yeah, but your engine might not run noticeably different with a 5 PSI difference, _but_ if you do a compression test you'd be able to see what cylinder to keep an eye on in the future. It can never hurt to know more about your vehicle.
Useless. You don’t even know what the compression ratio is...it’s not measured on that dial gauge. That dial gauge just has two different scales that measure pressure, and compression ratio is something completely different.
Wow. It's okay to be homosexual but mixing cylinder pressure and compression ratio.... Make a NEW video with the correct information buddy. Over-spec, HA-HA
Another trick you can do is do a “dry” test and then follow up with a “wet” test by putting a few drops of oil in the cylinder. Just enough to get on the rings. Great way to tell if your rings are worn
If you're burning oil and one or more cylinders is reading significantly lower than normal, you can try adding a little engine oil to it and retesting. If compression goes up with some oil in the cylinder, it usually means that cylinder has poor ring seal - either from the rings/ringlands themselves or from the cylinder wall being worn. Sometimes you can try running a higher viscosity oil as a short term solution since the thicker oil will help with ring seal.
One of the best car how to's out there! Great content and everything is really good explained! Keep up the great work man! I'm watching all your vids with interest!
madcat I'm subscribed to him too. These 2 channels are the best!
This is awesome. I like the simplicity of your demo. Great job.
I enjoy your videos but you are always saying the wrong cylinder number on your mini. Cylinder 1 is the one closest to your timing chain and you keep calling that #4 but it is #1.
The tuber jumped back and forth between psi and compression ratio (really pressure measured in bar -multiples of atmospheric pressure) so 10:1 compression ratio is ~14.7 psi X 10 or 147 psi. which is what he got on the good ones. His procedure was off in that the number of compression strokes he cranked varied from 7 to 12 which might account for some of the variation. Should not need to charge the battery for that few revolutions with the plugs out.
Hey milan you have helped me througt the tuff times and helped me with my car you are the best person ever
Sorry for bad english
Stay in school. Carry on playing Roblox. Since when did Milan make videos about RC cars?
Great video! Easy (relatively) on a 4 cylinder Cooper... I dread doing the on my V8 Suburban. Great trick on the thread locker! Thanks
Just about to do this to my civic, totally appreciate the video
Sameeee lol
That’s why you needed to make sure that when connecting the adapter, you do actually need to use some tools, or at the very least make sure it’s nice and tight. That way you don’t have the end of the adapter left in your cylinder!!
Brilliant explantion for a total novice😀 thank you
Glad you enjoyed it!
Take the opportunity to port,polish, and a little machine the head. Even a intake match it. Bigger better valve along with the valve job.
v t doesnt a jcw already have an upgraded head?
If I did this, I wouldn't determine how "healthy" my engine was, more like "it's not dead yet" lol
They are both kind of the same thing :)
@@milanmastracci I know this thread is old, but quick question. I didnt see in responses, "Did the walnut blasting of the valve ports take care of or correct the "Check Engine Light" for Cylinder 4 Misfiring?"
Thanks!
Really nice vid Milan, one of my top 3 best vids for info you have put out to date, thanks :-) can't wait to see the leak test and resolve vid now :-) keep em coming...
Great review & congrats again on 100+k
Thanks Gary!! :)
Happy 300k :)
You'd think they'd thread the fittings on opposite so they'd tighten as you loosen the piece out of the engine. If it comes loose when tightening into the engine, at least nothing is going to be stuck in there. Haven't thought it through fully yet
Can younsee with this test of there is a coolant leak ?
unrelated to the video but what a exit at Sobeys!! lol, that was sick
you are my favorite TH-camr
Thanks buddy!! :) Glad you're liking the videos!!
milanmastracci thanks for the reply
milanmastraçci which should I buy Supra or r34 or r35
hi milan ❤ keep going love your videos
Thanks buddy!!
change the rings... its a fun car. nice vid
Why does it matter if all plugs are out? Would it affect readings if you only take the one out of the cylinder you are testing?
Would I need to take out all spark plugs to test or could I pull the spark plugs out one at a time?
It depends on how open the throttle body is and the position of the pistons. A problem is when 1 piston has more than 10% of variation compared with the other ones so ur car is fine.Compression kits are not so reliable btw. (Learnt from Eric the Car guy)
4:36 cylinder 4?! Cylinder 4 should be the last from the right I’m right or wrong?
My 2013 mini countryman won’t crank if I remove fuel pump refuse. Any advice? Thanks! 😢
in your double clutch video you blipped the throttle when the clutch was disengaged, your supposed to do it with your clutch engaged with neutral, so essentially your synchros still did all the work matching the input shaft speed with the output shaft speed, thought i'd say it here says you felt the need to disable comments on the other video
Nice informative video milan :D
Thanks buddy!! :)
milanmastracci no problem man, you clearly put a lot of work and effort into these videos and it really shows keep it up ! :D
Would you recommend otc compression test tool ?
Sure would! Very good tool 👍 Still using this same one to this day
Hello Milan BIG LIKE for you , i'm from Romania by the whay !
Nice video bro keep going 👌🏻👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼
..that was interesting...Never seen Anyone Torque a Spark Plug.....
lol same
Never seen it done the right way 😭
Be rite
Great Video. Thanks!
I saw some people remove all the spark slugs before they do the test. I did not see you do that on this test. Does it make any different that you did not remove all the spark plugs first, then do the test on each cylinder?
Henry Sun I want to know that too
@@julianperez-robles6921 I don't know either.
He had all the sparkplugs out, the leads for the coils just look like they are connected as they fell back to there natural positions
Engine run with all 4 set enclosed.
Testing individual pressure is trying to take each reading on all 4 piston at the same time. If you have 4 pressure gauges, you could installed all 4 to compare.
Conclusion: All should be enclosed. Reason is usually the leak pressure have 4 main place to check as basic (exhaust, radiator water resevoir, engine oil inlet, engine oil dipstick)
What is the name of the song at the end of this video?
Hi Milan how are you? Good vid i think u should polish those headlights and apply some seal afterwards! Greets from Argentina
The headlights aren't hazy. That's the side of them, which renders no performance difference
Great Video: What is your assessment of these compression tests?
Looks like cyl 4:=8-1, cyl 3:=11-1, cyl 2 := 10-1, cyl 1:= 8-1...?
And what is next step to resolve?
-jake
thanks man, very helpful :)
Well done...
180psi per cylinder on my cooper countryman s. Is that too high? They are all at 180, one is slightly leaning towards 181.
Like this. Quick question. I'm new to this and had no idea about doing a wet test. I did do a compression check and found that my #1 cylinder was reading low (125 psi vs 150 psi on the others). I then went an put the parts back together when I discovered that I should have done the wet down test. Can I do a wet down test on just one cylinder without taking apart the others?
Thanks
I don't know if it's a Canadian thing, but here in the UK, the cylinder on the left (nearest the timing gear) is referred to as cylinder 1, not cylinder 4 as you said.
I'm going based off of what Mini outlined for our car's. Could very well be different where you are from :)
milanmastracci I like your videos man, good job. I'm also an R56 owner. The others are correct though, cylinder 1 is closest to the timing, far left as viewed from the front.
It doesn;t really matter in terms of doing a comp test anyway, just splitting hairs, pedantry matters ;-) keep up the good fight bro
the closest cylinder to the front of the vehicle is #1 cylinder
thank you
Great vids. Watch you from California.!:)
Cheers Pedro :)
You need to look up compression ratio!
Was the first cilinder tested no.4? I thought the first on the left side was cilinder 1….
Did you remove all the spark plugs before starting to test it or one at the time
One at a time. All should be enclosed.
Heyo milan, when you clean the engine bay with water, the battery didn't damage?
Nope :) Battery is fine!!
Thanks bro :D, i have golf 4 1.4 16v, and it's very dirty inside in the engine bay, and i saw your video, now i will go to clean it xD Keep making videos, you and your brother are the best :)
You forgot to perform to press the gas pedal all the way with the crank
the throttle body should be open??
it’s should be totally open to get a most accurate reading , however its not affect the compression it self to determine if there is any compression leak
Disabling the fuel system is not essential (only a small percentage of people actually do it). It is often a good idea to hook up a battery charger if you have one. A trickle charger to top up the battery before hand. Or a battery maintainer that can supply 30A at minimum.
Why do some say disable the fuel pump and others don’t? Also I see some say do it warm others say cold and it doesn’t really matter
Yoooo keep up the vids
On it!! :)
shared and liked your video
As per usual :)
Hello milan, I've watched your videos, you're great, keep up the good work. I have a question for you and I hope you can answer me. :D Before I put the question let me tell you what's happing. I've buyed a new car almost 9 months ago, it's a DACIA LOGAN II (Renault LOGAN II) with 1.2 liters engine, I've put almost all the time the best petrol from a single gas station from my city (I've put very often 98 petrol from ROMPETROL and a few times 95 petrol). In the morning or night, at first start, when I crank the engine, he doesn't want to start from the first, it's scary because this winter started OK at minus 15-20 degrees and now when the engine starts after a few cranks, the rpm jumps to 1000-1200 rpm for a few seconds. I think this is not normal because before this it started OK. What do you think the problem can be? The spark plugs or other stuff ?
do you have a place we can ask you questions about our vehicles?
Yeah :) Right here?
milanmastracci my grandfathers leather on his door panels are pealing off and i was curious about how to reaply it without stitching. do you have any ideas?
To keep the adapter piece from sticking, wouldn't "reverse threads" on it and the hose prevent this? Just a thought...what if the thread-lock didn't work??
Are you sure that the first cylinder you tested is number 4? As far as I know, the cylinder that is closest to the timing, is always number 1. And as I'm concerned, your timing is on the left too. Just wanted for you to know, and not make further mistakes :)
yep.... ur right buddy. he was wrong to told that
Isn't the engine need to be warm/hot ?
125k km and compression is already going. My car is 15 years old with 300k km on it and all my compression values are within 10% of each other.
When is that walnut blast coming?
What if you cant start your car to bring it up to operating temperature? It cranks but it will only start if the gas pedal is floored
Sameeeee
120 and 150 is difference that infers there is issue in one of the cylinder . Saying "its healthy" is wrong closure .
where are you from in ontario?
Located in Niagara :)
So early! woot woot!
:D
That sucks. Hopefully it's a head gasket and not a valve but if it is the might as well work the head while you got the chance.
I've done a bit of research, and I'm kind of relieved as to what the problem is. So I know there is a problem with my head, but it is a relatively simple fix :) I'll 100% make a video about it
wait, did he start and end with cylinder no. 4? Those Germans are so smart. They engineered a car with two No. 4 cylinders.
11 to 1 is incorrect and called static compression. No way a gauge will ever tel you that. Its the PSI reading you meant to say - ie 150, 180 etc.. thanks anyway tho- yes VERY important to REALLY tighten the m12 adapter to the tool so it does not get stuck down in the hole! or use a dedicated m12 extension~
hello!
Hey CJ :)
milanmastracci Have you named the Nissan yet???
Maybe ;)
You are not Chris, but really fix'd. You both are cool, but I think you're cooler, because you're not afraid to show your face
Gedas alekveravičius Not showing his face is his signature trademark. Also we know what he looks like in past vids. I equally like both channel but prefer Chris's, because he does a fantastic job at editing his videos.
Your “cylinder 4” is actually CYLINDER 1. FYI. 1-2-3-4 from left to right.
it’s depends on the location of timing chain/belt on right or left side of the engine to start counting
Why this video need to be 13 minutes long ??
Is that not a fairly young car?
It is, however it is a cheaply made engine from Peugeot.
lol umm you say multiple times that its measuring your compression ratio of 8-10 ?? . A compression gauge DOES NOT measure compression ratio.
Yes I thought that he doesn't know what he is doing shouldn't really be doing how to videos under those circumstances, a little knowledge is a dangerous thing!
If you engine run nice you don t need to make this test. This test is to see if its not run good.
Yeah, but your engine might not run noticeably different with a 5 PSI difference, _but_ if you do a compression test you'd be able to see what cylinder to keep an eye on in the future. It can never hurt to know more about your vehicle.
Your battery or your stater is no good you need good battery to did test
man 10.0 compression is not the compression
Useless. You don’t even know what the compression ratio is...it’s not measured on that dial gauge. That dial gauge just has two different scales that measure pressure, and compression ratio is something completely different.
Wow. It's okay to be homosexual but mixing cylinder pressure and compression ratio.... Make a NEW video with the correct information buddy. Over-spec, HA-HA
Great video, thanks!