after making the triangular tent, tape on the tarp ends. Practice at home with cheap plastic painter's drop cloths, from Lowes. Mark the Alone tarp where you'll cut it, using permanent ink marker. Ditto for making the tarp and tape pants, of course. things will go much faster with practice, confidence and marked lines!
it only takes a couple of hours to set up the producer's tarp as a plow point, with poles supporting the upper corners, giving you a flat roof (not very wide) Aim the low end of the pavilion at the prevailing winds, In order to have stand up working room, it might be necessary to not take the tarp all the way to the ground. Attech the bottom of the tarp to tall stakes Use brush, debris, dirt to make the 'walls' that seal off the "gap" under the bottom of your pavilion, keeping out rain, wind, and some of the cold.. With a Siberian fire lay out in front of this plow point sheiter, wearing all of your clothing layers, with dry debris between each layer, you'll be able to sit in this work pavilion and make netting, or stand ad split wood with wedges and a baton Start 2" deep saw kerfs across the ends of the logs, using the teeth on the shovel Drive the wedges into the kerfs and if need be, into the sides of the split, moving down the log. There's normlly no need to buck or split logs, but you CAN do it without a saw or axe.
weave a basket, maybe 5"x5". Get 4 handfuls of approximately 1/2" OD pebbles Set up the basket near your feet in the shelter. Using your non-dominant hand, in an overhand move, toss pebbles at the basket. repeat When you rarely miss, try it sidearm, then underhand pitch, In a month or so, you'll be ambidextrous.
The XL size, reflective tyvek bivy is 1.5 lbs, $95 from 2GoSystems. It's many times more useful than any sleeping-bag, cause it's unaffected by its getting wet. IF a sleeping bag gets-wet, it is ruined (for the duratioon of your challenge) You can wear the bivy as clothing, use it to line your stone boiling pit, use it to cover a big carcass or to carry things. Double fold it to carry anything HEAVY. If you use the bivy, unzipped-flat as a canopy, better duct-tape the connections and use springy, U-foled, green sticks as shock absorbers so as to protect any tie out point (with ANY membrane-tarp. If you dont, you'll be sorry in short order, cause the wind will tear it.
you dont want your sleeping shelter to be much bigger than a coffin, cause you dont want to have to have a heat source inside of it (other than your body, of course) Make the bed out of 12 or so 5 ft long, 1-1.5" OD poles, laid over cross poles, which sit in forked stakes. the bed should only be 10" high, so the forked stakes wont be very long at all Depending upon the stiffness of your 5 ft long poles, you may or may not need a cross pole just above your knees (as you lay upon the bed). Make a 1 ft "long' bed-extension for your head. Then you can invert this extension and set it on the bed when you need room in which to use the chamber pot, squatting or kneeling.. Have surplus dry, loose dirt inside of your tent so you can cover the wastes. Have a latrine trench 50 ft or so from your tent, well away from your water, in a direction which you walk anyway, so as to save wasted time and calories When you MUST leave the shelter anyway, empty the chamber pot into the latrine trench, cover the wastes, add more dry dirt to the chamber-pot and set it near the door of the shelter. If it's raining, of course, put the dirt/basket inside of the sleeping-tent.
no, man, in 3 hours, half of your 12x12 reflective tarp will have become a tent. Stuff it with dry debris, have a raised pole bed, and it'll be all you need for the first 30 days of the "alone' show. Then you can easily add insulation to the outside of the tent in a few hours, that will suffice for the next month. then a few hours more will increase its effectiveness down to 0F temps no need of a sleeping-bag or a heat source inside of your little sleeping-tent. Use the producer's tarp to make a work pavilion, IF it's needed, vs wind and rain. IF it's needed, A siberian fire lay can be set up at the open end of the plow-point work-pavilion Dont waste 1-2 weeks on a shelter, 2 weeks on firewood, a week on boiling water.
dont bother with the debris layer on the outside of the tent until it freezes at night. When you add the debris, you have to cover it with the producer's tarp. That means you'll have to cover the pole-frame of your work pavilion with pine boughs The needles fall off of the boughs in 1-2 weeks. So dont use boughs until you have to do so . Dont make your shelter so warm that you have to remove clothing. Put dry grass/mosses between each layer of clothing and LEAVE on the clothing layers while inside of your tent. Dont waste time and calories doffing and donning clothing. Once the temps STAY freezing, there's little risk of fungus growing between your toes in your pits, crotch, etc. Until it freezes, tho, wash your face and hands with BOILED-water containing hardwood ash residue. Every other day, clean your pits, hair, crotch butt, feet. If it's cold, bare only the part you will be immediately washing and immediately dry that part with dry mosses, grasses, or your shemagh.
when you dont need a warming fire, that saves you 2 hours per day, for 50-60 days. A Siberian fire lay burns and dries out a log from the end, so there's no need to buck or split wood, You dont want a fire inside of your shelter, nor a shelter big enough to need one. Not as your sleeping shelter. You SHOULD have everything done in the first 6 weeks. Then the best thing you can do is just hole up inside of your shelter and conserve calories.
after making the triangular tent, tape on the tarp ends. Practice at home with cheap plastic painter's drop cloths, from Lowes. Mark the Alone tarp where you'll cut it, using permanent ink marker. Ditto for making the tarp and tape pants, of course. things will go much faster with practice, confidence and marked lines!
The shelter is looking great! I can't wait to see what you do to it next.
Thanks Mikey. I appreciate it.
What no stop at Hardee's 😂
Saving that for the next trip. LOL Thanks for watching.
That was an amazing ending for the videos lol
it only takes a couple of hours to set up the producer's tarp as a plow point, with poles supporting the upper corners, giving you a flat roof (not very wide) Aim the low end of the pavilion at the prevailing winds, In order to have stand up working room, it might be necessary to not take the tarp all the way to the ground. Attech the bottom of the tarp to tall stakes Use brush, debris, dirt to make the 'walls' that seal off the "gap" under the bottom of your pavilion, keeping out rain, wind, and some of the cold.. With a Siberian fire lay out in front of this plow point sheiter, wearing all of your clothing layers, with dry debris between each layer, you'll be able to sit in this work pavilion and make netting, or stand ad split wood with wedges and a baton Start 2" deep saw kerfs across the ends of the logs, using the teeth on the shovel Drive the wedges into the kerfs and if need be, into the sides of the split, moving down the log. There's normlly no need to buck or split logs, but you CAN do it without a saw or axe.
weave a basket, maybe 5"x5". Get 4 handfuls of approximately 1/2" OD pebbles Set up the basket near your feet in the shelter. Using your non-dominant hand, in an overhand move, toss pebbles at the basket. repeat When you rarely miss, try it sidearm, then underhand pitch, In a month or so, you'll be ambidextrous.
The XL size, reflective tyvek bivy is 1.5 lbs, $95 from 2GoSystems. It's many times more useful than any sleeping-bag, cause it's unaffected by its getting wet. IF a sleeping bag gets-wet, it is ruined (for the duratioon of your challenge) You can wear the bivy as clothing, use it to line your stone boiling pit, use it to cover a big carcass or to carry things. Double fold it to carry anything HEAVY. If you use the bivy, unzipped-flat as a canopy, better duct-tape the connections and use springy, U-foled, green sticks as shock absorbers so as to protect any tie out point (with ANY membrane-tarp. If you dont, you'll be sorry in short order, cause the wind will tear it.
Keep getting it man. Keep getting it.
you dont want your sleeping shelter to be much bigger than a coffin, cause you dont want to have to have a heat source inside of it (other than your body, of course) Make the bed out of 12 or so 5 ft long, 1-1.5" OD poles, laid over cross poles, which sit in forked stakes. the bed should only be 10" high, so the forked stakes wont be very long at all Depending upon the stiffness of your 5 ft long poles, you may or may not need a cross pole just above your knees (as you lay upon the bed). Make a 1 ft "long' bed-extension for your head. Then you can invert this extension and set it on the bed when you need room in which to use the chamber pot, squatting or kneeling.. Have surplus dry, loose dirt inside of your tent so you can cover the wastes. Have a latrine trench 50 ft or so from your tent, well away from your water, in a direction which you walk anyway, so as to save wasted time and calories When you MUST leave the shelter anyway, empty the chamber pot into the latrine trench, cover the wastes, add more dry dirt to the chamber-pot and set it near the door of the shelter. If it's raining, of course, put the dirt/basket inside of the sleeping-tent.
no, man, in 3 hours, half of your 12x12 reflective tarp will have become a tent. Stuff it with dry debris, have a raised pole bed, and it'll be all you need for the first 30 days of the "alone' show. Then you can easily add insulation to the outside of the tent in a few hours, that will suffice for the next month. then a few hours more will increase its effectiveness down to 0F temps no need of a sleeping-bag or a heat source inside of your little sleeping-tent. Use the producer's tarp to make a work pavilion, IF it's needed, vs wind and rain. IF it's needed, A siberian fire lay can be set up at the open end of the plow-point work-pavilion Dont waste 1-2 weeks on a shelter, 2 weeks on firewood, a week on boiling water.
dont bother with the debris layer on the outside of the tent until it freezes at night. When you add the debris, you have to cover it with the producer's tarp. That means you'll have to cover the pole-frame of your work pavilion with pine boughs The needles fall off of the boughs in 1-2 weeks. So dont use boughs until you have to do so . Dont make your shelter so warm that you have to remove clothing. Put dry grass/mosses between each layer of clothing and LEAVE on the clothing layers while inside of your tent. Dont waste time and calories doffing and donning clothing. Once the temps STAY freezing, there's little risk of fungus growing between your toes in your pits, crotch, etc. Until it freezes, tho, wash your face and hands with BOILED-water containing hardwood ash residue. Every other day, clean your pits, hair, crotch butt, feet. If it's cold, bare only the part you will be immediately washing and immediately dry that part with dry mosses, grasses, or your shemagh.
when you dont need a warming fire, that saves you 2 hours per day, for 50-60 days. A Siberian fire lay burns and dries out a log from the end, so there's no need to buck or split wood, You dont want a fire inside of your shelter, nor a shelter big enough to need one. Not as your sleeping shelter. You SHOULD have everything done in the first 6 weeks. Then the best thing you can do is just hole up inside of your shelter and conserve calories.