Despite being semi-synthetic, the Lucas is actually really good. It has a JASO FD rating, which is a really rigorous standard for high temperature, high load, high-rpm applications. Anything with an API-TC rating is good, JASO FC is better, JASO FD is better-er, in terms of lubrication. If you see a TCW3 rating without any of those others, that means it's a very clean-burning oil but not meant for high-stress applications. TCW3 oils are meant for things like outboard motors or commuter bikes.
Castor is good shit. It's in all my nitro RC fuels and these little 2 stroke nitro engines turn MUCH more than just 13k RPM. I've got one that turns 42K, yep 42,000 RPM, tachometer confirmed(it was actually 42,119). If it can take 40K RPM's in a nitro engine, then I'd trust it to just about anything. It does leave a residue, but not enough to really bother anything in a 2 stroke. I recommend it highly over synthetic for high RPM applications.
Most of the time it'll turn the inside of your engine a nice gold color over time if you got your mixtures right. But that's about it. If you have carbon issues with Castor, you're running way too much in your fuel.
@@shaunvalencia2644 The correct ratio will very depending on the engine snd how it is used. Generally, you need more oil for larger pistons snd higher RPM. Imagine for example, a Honda CR500. Big cylinder. But if you use it in woods trail riding, you're idling all the time. You might run 60:1 and still find that it makes a mess. But if you put some supermoto tires on it and take it road racing, that very same engine might swallow 16:1 and come away clean as a new Mercedes on the inside. So you want to try a ratio, informed by your use case and maybe on the rich side for safety, and see how it goes. Let the engine talk to you through the black sticky icky, and go to a leaner ratio until it cleans up and you get a light nonzero amount of smoke. Then if you get a different machine or get better at what you're doing and start to run harder, be prepared to bring that back up.
Thanks you for the video. I'm chasing an oil for my dirtbike, Klotz Techniplate seems to be very popular but hard to get in Australia. It is s blend of castor oil. Can you recommend another tutor m type of blend instead? The lube and smell of the castor is great, but I'm hoping if it's blended then it won't be too gummy. Thanks for any assistance.
Castrol a747 is good oil also castor/synthetic. So is TTS or now called power1 full synthetic. Had been using it fir over 25 years neva had a issue with eitha oil
I use Marine two stroke TCW3 rated in my Jeep and Volvo. I've been doing this for years with great results. The ratio is 1oz oil to 5 gallons of gas. That's a 640/1 ratio. Use this formula for best results. Do this every time you get gas for best results. Lubes and cleans the whole system and keeps the engine from wear. You will get quicker starts. Lots of testing has been done and it works great.Cheaper Than Lucas fuel conditioner and Marvel Mystery oil Do this and you won't know your car is running at idle. Google Sarge LS1 marine oil in cars. He is the guru of testing.
I have used caster based oil with good ( but gummy results). I left 927 mixed with racing gas over the winter. Knew I needed to dump it but didn’t. IAME 175 trash ( had to buy new one). IAME X125 rebuildable with new parts. DO NOT LET 927 SIT MIXED WITH GAS OVER WINTER !!!
What should I use for my little generator? it's just a little 49cc 800 Watt peak little puke from China, but I've grown fond of it. I've been using Yamalube 2R because I use it for my dirtbikes and it's what I have. Is there something more appropriate that I should be using?
I'm not an expert but it seems to me that an oil that does not burn clean is not burning completely. Whereas an oil that leaves no residue is either burning as fuel or blowing out as smoke. One thing you never see with synthetic oil is smoke. Caster based oils on the other hand not only leave carbon, but smoke as well. As to film strength, the main reason automotive producers have gone to requiring synthetic oil is due to it's high film strength.
ENDURO SK well if the guy in the video said it it's got to be true. I wasn't talking about performance I was talking about how much carbon it leaves on the power valves and the piston and the exhaust port. I've never had issue using yamalube r. tell me everything you know about dirt bikes and engines. I have a minute. I'm sure 927 is a great oil to use in your hi performance racing moped
while doing research I came across this video (very informative) yet my question is regarding a commercial trimmer. I welcome your thoughts. I love the smell and the concept of Caster based. Just curious if I've done something wrong. thank you so much for your input ! I need some help guys. I was using the Blendzall 455 Ultra product , at a 50:1 ratio like recommended by the manufacture Redmax. I was using the Blendzall in my Redmax Trimmer Bcz260ts and absolutely Loved the trimmer (and I've used them all) I also love the smell lol. The motor began to get harder to start and seemed to be losing power it was only 4 months old and still under warranty YET when I took it in for evaluation, they said it was run without oil (straight gas ) and the Piston and cylinder wall were both scarred. They refused to warranty. I told them that I was sure it had oil/ Blendzall and they still refused to warranty. I would like to be able to use the Blendzall product but it appears that it has failed. Did I do something wrong? I saw a comment that it has NO protection if its been cold. I did have on porch over the winter. Please advise, I just don't want to throw 300 away again. Michael and thanks so much in advance.
If a castor oil mix is sat out in the cold, it will separate and I've read that once separated it won't mix back together properly. So it sounds to me like you had oil in your fuel tank, sitting in a puddle, and the engine probably ate the remaining straight gas. With castor-based oils it's best to mix fresh before use, or store for a short time (a couple weeks) in warm (40F+) weather. I use castor oil in my dirt bikes, and when the winter season comes I drain off the gas and feed it to my car so that I can use fresh mix in the Springtime. I'm sorry to hear about what happened to your engine.
Some really expert on two stroke engines from mot racing, to aircraft. Tells to break in the engine with mineral oil. After the break in use synthetics.
Order some bro i do there's only one moto bike shop a few hours away, I'm not driving a couple for 2-stroke oil i luv my 2-strokes but if i couldn't order my oil i would 100% buy a 4 stroke.
Vintage 2-strokes will do great on synthetic or castor. If you run it really really hard or have it out of tune, there's a chance castor might save you where synthetic wouldn't. But that's rare; synthetic is still really good. I use castor, but about 75% for the smell. And because my vintage stuff is air-cooled and non-powervalve, the gooey gummy sconge of castor is really not a problem. For anything that has a powevalve system, or anything with license plates that has to occasionally idle next to a cop car, the cleaner character of synthetic is probably the way to go.
Most outboards will do best with a synthetic TCW3-rated oil. Outboards are mild engines with extremely good cooling, which means they don't need very robust heat resistance but are prone to gumming-up and plug-fouling. TCW3 oil is super super clean and low-ash, which is exactly what you want in an outboard, but would be bad for an air-cooled racing engine.
Castor provides even better protection than synthetic so your advice to use it to break in the rings is no good. Use a mineral oil or just add less of whatever oil you normally use but don't run the engine hard continually. Get on the gas for short periods only.
Most of the advantage of castor comes at extreme high temperature and shear load. Under normal conditions it's comparable to a synthetic, although most of the time castors are made at much higher viscosity. When the poo hits the fan though and even a synthetic would start to burn off, castor wicks INTO high heat areas and cooks into insane teflon-like black madness. The hotter things get, the better it works, and that's mostly where its excellent reputation comes from. That said, I agree about using neither for a break-in; I like to run one of those super clean marine oils you can get at gas stations. Cheap, thin, not too protective, and it won't foul a plug while I'm doing initial carb tuning or taking it easy on break-in. After that, I switch to castor for something air-cooled and roudy like a vintage MX bike, and synthetic for anything else (water cooled, powervalve-equipped stuff, the vintage street bike that I'm tired of explaining to the police, etc)
hi, i'm currently doing some research on 2T premixing for my rotary engine. the engine itself eats a little of the mineral base engine oil, and as much as forums and discussion there is, i am still figuring out certain stuff. as you mention, ester oil leaves lesser carbon deposit after burn, and it mixes and stay mixed well with gasolin. Would the RON figure matters with ester 2T oil? Would the ester 2T oil gum up the injector and spark plug? thank you.
Pam Walton You need to mix it with fuel because engines basically run mainly on fuel. the oil is there to lubricate the engine bearings, piston, cylinder, rings, etc
Motul 800 is the best oil out there, 40 hours plus on my motocross bike and not even a mark on the piston.
Yamalube is the same if not better, piston looked brand new
I been using maxima super m for about a year now riding every week for about 4 hours and my piston isn’t too bad
But when I ran maxima castor oil I would use it constantly and it blew my engine after a couple tanks of it 🤦♂️
@@JuanGarcia-oz6sghow do you know it was the oil for certain?
Klotz benol and maxima 927 are the best !! Smells like heaven
Smell the best but make a mess.
What smells better
The only problem I’m seeing with my 927 is that I have a lot of spooge.
I here klotz benol smell good to, does anyone know if its similar to klotz techniplate smell?
Smells like *Adams* (kart track, Riverside, Ca.)
Man I run that Lucas oil 2 stroke pre mix. SEMI synthetic and I've put 90 hours on a two stroke running hard and the engine was perfect
Glad I saw your comment. I was running castor 927 but went and picked up Lucas semi synthetic oil and didn’t know if it would fuck my bike up..
Despite being semi-synthetic, the Lucas is actually really good. It has a JASO FD rating, which is a really rigorous standard for high temperature, high load, high-rpm applications. Anything with an API-TC rating is good, JASO FC is better, JASO FD is better-er, in terms of lubrication. If you see a TCW3 rating without any of those others, that means it's a very clean-burning oil but not meant for high-stress applications. TCW3 oils are meant for things like outboard motors or commuter bikes.
I run synthetic/petroleum and I was like what, my bike runs just fine on this then I realized he was talking about go karts
Really meant for yard equipment it's pretty thin stuff, but Burns super clean.
Castor is good shit. It's in all my nitro RC fuels and these little 2 stroke nitro engines turn MUCH more than just 13k RPM. I've got one that turns 42K, yep 42,000 RPM, tachometer confirmed(it was actually 42,119). If it can take 40K RPM's in a nitro engine, then I'd trust it to just about anything. It does leave a residue, but not enough to really bother anything in a 2 stroke. I recommend it highly over synthetic for high RPM applications.
Most of the time it'll turn the inside of your engine a nice gold color over time if you got your mixtures right. But that's about it. If you have carbon issues with Castor, you're running way too much in your fuel.
losi8ightyew what ratio would you usually recommend that wouldn't be considered "too much?"
@@shaunvalencia2644 The correct ratio will very depending on the engine snd how it is used. Generally, you need more oil for larger pistons snd higher RPM. Imagine for example, a Honda CR500. Big cylinder. But if you use it in woods trail riding, you're idling all the time. You might run 60:1 and still find that it makes a mess. But if you put some supermoto tires on it and take it road racing, that very same engine might swallow 16:1 and come away clean as a new Mercedes on the inside. So you want to try a ratio, informed by your use case and maybe on the rich side for safety, and see how it goes. Let the engine talk to you through the black sticky icky, and go to a leaner ratio until it cleans up and you get a light nonzero amount of smoke. Then if you get a different machine or get better at what you're doing and start to run harder, be prepared to bring that back up.
Mineral oil are totally ok for old mopeds like Puch or Tomos that only go about 5000rpm.
Uh, if I had a moped, I’d run some castor (for the odor, mostly.)
Failing that, I’d run K2. (I’d wish my engine to run good and last good, too.)
this is the best 2 stroke oil information on TH-cam! thanks!
Very good explanation. Great post.!
Castor 927 is the best one my engine have 200 hours and still perfect. I make it 0.75 x litters
Thanks you for the video. I'm chasing an oil for my dirtbike, Klotz Techniplate seems to be very popular but hard to get in Australia. It is s blend of castor oil. Can you recommend another tutor m type of blend instead?
The lube and smell of the castor is great, but I'm hoping if it's blended then it won't be too gummy.
Thanks for any assistance.
Castrol a747 is good oil also castor/synthetic. So is TTS or now called power1 full synthetic. Had been using it fir over 25 years neva had a issue with eitha oil
I use Marine two stroke TCW3 rated in my Jeep and Volvo. I've been doing this for years with great results. The ratio is 1oz oil to 5 gallons of gas. That's a 640/1 ratio. Use this formula for best results. Do this every time you get gas for best results. Lubes and cleans the whole system and keeps the engine from wear. You will get quicker starts. Lots of testing has been done and it works great.Cheaper Than Lucas fuel conditioner and Marvel Mystery oil
Do this and you won't know your car is running at idle. Google Sarge LS1 marine oil in cars. He is the guru of testing.
I`ll stay with Marvel Mystery oil. Used it in my airplanes for 10 years. The old timers say they can hear the difference. bwahaha
You forgot Group IV, PAOs derived from natural gas.
Ester based oils are 100% synthetic,
not fully synthetic
which means hydrocracked petroleum.
Its a shame they can't make a fully synthetic oil that's smells like the castor oils like R30 nice...
david muscat Whatever they use in vp t2 smells really good and it's fully synthetic.
I have used caster based oil with good ( but gummy results). I left 927 mixed with racing gas over the winter. Knew I needed to dump it but didn’t.
IAME 175 trash ( had to buy new one). IAME X125 rebuildable with new parts. DO NOT LET 927 SIT MIXED WITH GAS OVER WINTER !!!
What should I use for my little generator? it's just a little 49cc 800 Watt peak little puke from China, but I've grown fond of it. I've been using Yamalube 2R because I use it for my dirtbikes and it's what I have. Is there something more appropriate that I should be using?
I'm not an expert but it seems to me that an oil that does not burn clean is not burning completely. Whereas an oil that leaves no residue is either burning as fuel or blowing out as smoke. One thing you never see with synthetic oil is smoke. Caster based oils on the other hand not only leave carbon, but smoke as well. As to film strength, the main reason automotive producers have gone to requiring synthetic oil is due to it's high film strength.
Could i run these 2 stroke oils on a 49cc pocket bike
Norm API-TC JASO FD for >10.000RPM
I was shocked to see how dirty 927 burns after taking the top end off my 125. I suppose I've gotten spoiled using Yamalube R previously.
64maxpower castor927 is better than synthetic shit hands down. even that guy pretty much said it in the video
Nathan Diaz as he said though it burns really dirty.
ENDURO SK well if the guy in the video said it it's got to be true. I wasn't talking about performance I was talking about how much carbon it leaves on the power valves and the piston and the exhaust port. I've never had issue using yamalube r. tell me everything you know about dirt bikes and engines. I have a minute. I'm sure 927 is a great oil to use in your hi performance racing moped
64maxpower I was talking to Nathan... you don't need to get all heated.
yamalube is great
while doing research I came across this video (very informative) yet my question is regarding a commercial trimmer. I welcome your thoughts. I love the smell and the concept of Caster based. Just curious if I've done something wrong. thank you so much for your input !
I need some help guys. I was using the Blendzall 455 Ultra product , at a 50:1 ratio like recommended by the manufacture Redmax. I was using the Blendzall in my Redmax Trimmer Bcz260ts and absolutely Loved the trimmer (and I've used them all) I also love the smell lol. The motor began to get harder to start and seemed to be losing power it was only 4 months old and still under warranty YET when I took it in for evaluation, they said it was run without oil (straight gas ) and the Piston and cylinder wall were both scarred. They refused to warranty. I told them that I was sure it had oil/ Blendzall and they still refused to warranty. I would like to be able to use the Blendzall product but it appears that it has failed. Did I do something wrong? I saw a comment that it has NO protection if its been cold. I did have on porch over the winter. Please advise, I just don't want to throw 300 away again. Michael and thanks so much in advance.
If a castor oil mix is sat out in the cold, it will separate and I've read that once separated it won't mix back together properly. So it sounds to me like you had oil in your fuel tank, sitting in a puddle, and the engine probably ate the remaining straight gas. With castor-based oils it's best to mix fresh before use, or store for a short time (a couple weeks) in warm (40F+) weather. I use castor oil in my dirt bikes, and when the winter season comes I drain off the gas and feed it to my car so that I can use fresh mix in the Springtime.
I'm sorry to hear about what happened to your engine.
I use silkolene the best i found yet 2t semisyntetic i have a scooter from 2002 still runnig strong no trouble
What oil should i use? i use a little 50cc scooter and just got my driving license and don't know what to use
Some really expert on two stroke engines from mot racing, to aircraft. Tells to break in the engine with mineral oil. After the break in use synthetics.
I know its been years but i first saw your website in 2011. Is it still active?
what if u are at a place where there is no synthetic based 2 cycle oil? what option can you use for ur machine?
Order some bro i do there's only one moto bike shop a few hours away, I'm not driving a couple for 2-stroke oil i luv my 2-strokes but if i couldn't order my oil i would 100% buy a 4 stroke.
I use A 747 on my karting engines and so far no problem, is there anything better?
No
Is the fully synthetic oil OK to use in vintage two stroke motors?
Yes
Vintage 2-strokes will do great on synthetic or castor. If you run it really really hard or have it out of tune, there's a chance castor might save you where synthetic wouldn't. But that's rare; synthetic is still really good. I use castor, but about 75% for the smell. And because my vintage stuff is air-cooled and non-powervalve, the gooey gummy sconge of castor is really not a problem. For anything that has a powevalve system, or anything with license plates that has to occasionally idle next to a cop car, the cleaner character of synthetic is probably the way to go.
would it hurt anything to switch back and forth from ester and faster oils? I don't suppose you could mix them either?
The Moto fixery it's fine to switch but do not mix different oils.
@@zane4964 why? semi synt is a mix by default
BEL RAY
i use anything
Kevin Stearns R.I.P your engine becuase your to goddamn lazy to buy the good stuff
Kevin Stearns hahahaaaaaaaahahahaaaa...nice!!!
Do you also date any female that comes along?
Lol even gas station oil
Lmao it's better than running no oil
What about Agip eni iRide or Agip iRide oils?
What about 4 stroke oils?
You sell the awesome kx21 engine on your site.
what's the difference between diluted oil and non diluted oil
(API TC,jaso FD,jaso FC,ISO EGD,ISO EGC) minimum on my bike.
what happened to all your videos from your website?
can you run it in 2stroke outboards
or it's just for racing
Joshua Demoll mate you didnt even mention what oil you mean.
Most outboards will do best with a synthetic TCW3-rated oil. Outboards are mild engines with extremely good cooling, which means they don't need very robust heat resistance but are prone to gumming-up and plug-fouling. TCW3 oil is super super clean and low-ash, which is exactly what you want in an outboard, but would be bad for an air-cooled racing engine.
1:33 OIL MIX OK ?
i have old brand oil.. is it ok if i change oil for my 49cc 2 stroke oil is ther any effect on my engine?
I’m definitely no expert, n I see this was 2 years ago, but it might just make your bike run better
Where do I buy the D Penzon?
Castor 927 is Ester fortified
Anyone use 927 in their lawn mower serious question?
Castor provides even better protection than synthetic so your advice to use it to break in the rings is no good. Use a mineral oil or just add less of whatever oil you normally use but don't run the engine hard continually. Get on the gas for short periods only.
Most of the advantage of castor comes at extreme high temperature and shear load. Under normal conditions it's comparable to a synthetic, although most of the time castors are made at much higher viscosity. When the poo hits the fan though and even a synthetic would start to burn off, castor wicks INTO high heat areas and cooks into insane teflon-like black madness. The hotter things get, the better it works, and that's mostly where its excellent reputation comes from.
That said, I agree about using neither for a break-in; I like to run one of those super clean marine oils you can get at gas stations. Cheap, thin, not too protective, and it won't foul a plug while I'm doing initial carb tuning or taking it easy on break-in. After that, I switch to castor for something air-cooled and roudy like a vintage MX bike, and synthetic for anything else (water cooled, powervalve-equipped stuff, the vintage street bike that I'm tired of explaining to the police, etc)
@@JETZcorp good advice
hi, i'm currently doing some research on 2T premixing for my rotary engine.
the engine itself eats a little of the mineral base engine oil, and as much as forums and discussion there is, i am still figuring out certain stuff.
as you mention, ester oil leaves lesser carbon deposit after burn, and it mixes and stay mixed well with gasolin.
Would the RON figure matters with ester 2T oil?
Would the ester 2T oil gum up the injector and spark plug?
thank you.
Run castor 927 or amsoil dominator 80:1/100:1
What about maxima’s ester based semi synthetic does that run good or should I stay away from it
Anything maxima makes is quality so go for it
Can I mix ester based fully synthetic with semi synthetic 2T oil?
you said the naughty word
Klotz benol nothing else !!!
Castor bean is not a vegetable
It is a Vegetable oil pressed from the Castor Bean.
Maxoil from malaysia.. cheap n good.
Hahahaha good ape benda,myk enjin bot
a loboraty wtf
what's the difference between diluted oil and non diluted oil
Pam Walton You need to mix it with fuel because engines basically run mainly on fuel. the oil is there to lubricate the engine bearings, piston, cylinder, rings, etc